CHAPTER XIII *

Eight Hours Day in Melbourne--The Australian Born--

Australians and the Mother Country--The Governor--_The

Sydney Bulletin_--The Englishman in Australia--Australian

Journalism--The Theatres--The Creed of Athleticism--The

Future.

It is many years since I saw a sight which so pricked and stirred my

blood as the final episode of the procession of Eight Hours Day in

Melbourne. The day was wintry and dismal. Early rains had threatened

the dispersal of the patient crowds which lined the roads; the pavements

were muddy and the sky was lowering. The march of the trades bodies did

little to dispel the gloom of the day for the one onlooker concerning

whose sentiments I am authorised to speak. The vast crowd gave each

trade a reception as it passed, and sometimes the marchers passed below

the Treasury windows and cheered the governor. There was plenty of

noise and enthusiasm, but I was unawakened until the tail-end of the

procession came. Two brakes drew up below the governor's standing-place,

and some score of grey-bearded men rose up in these vehicles and waved

their hats with vigour, whilst the whole orderly mob roared applause at

them and Lord Hopetoun himself clapped his hands like a pleased boy at

the theatre. All the men in the two brakes were elderly and grey-headed,

but as far as I could see, they were all stalwart and able-bodied, and

the faces of a good many were bronzed with years of sun and wind. Over

the leading vehicle was suspended a strip of white cloth, and on this

was painted the words, “The Pioneers.” These men were the makers

of Victoria, the fathers of the proud and populous city which lay

widespread about us. There is no need to be eloquent about Melbourne.

Too many people have sung its praises already. But it is one of the

cities of the world; it has a population of over half a million; it has

its churches, its chapels, its synagogues, its theatres, its hotels; it

is as well furnished in most respects as any other city of its size; and

these grey men yet staunch in body, bronzed and bright-eyed, were among

the beginners of it. When I first visited Melbourne I was introduced to

a man who, between the present site of the Roman Catholic Cathedral and

the present site of the Town Hall, had been “bushed” for a whole day and

lost in the virgin forest. I knew already how young the city was, how

strangely rapid its growth had been; but I did not realise what I knew,

and these elderly strangers' bodily presence made my thought concrete.

That beautifully appropriate and dramatic finish struck the same chord

of wonder, but with a fuller sound.

* These Antipodean notes, dealing with the conditions of

some twenty years ago, have lost nothing of their vivid

interest by the lapse of time, and illustrate in a

remarkable manner the process of history being made for the

world, while it hardly has time to wait.

The city is commonplace enough in itself, but the Victorian, quite

justifiably, refuses to think so. Men come back from London, and

Paris, and Vienna, and New York, and think Melbourne the finer for

the contrast. In reality, it is very very far from being so; but it

is useless to reason with patriotism and its convictions. The men

of Victoria run devotion to their soil to an extreme. I was told an

exquisite story, for the truth of which I had a solemn voucher, though

it carries its evidences of veracity and needs no bolstering from

without. An Australian-born--he came of course from that Gascony of the

Antipodes which has Melbourne for its capital--visited the home country.

An old friend of his father was his cicerone in London and took him,

amongst other places, to Westminster Abbey, and “There, my young

friend,” said the Englishman, when they had explored the noble old

building, “you have nothing like that in Australia.” “My word,” said

the colonial export, “no fear! You should just see the Scotch church at

Ballarat!”

The tale is typical. I would tell it, in the hope that he would find it

an _open-sesame_ to many things, to any fair-minded and observant

man who was going out to Victoria. It is a little outrageous to the

stranger, but in it the general public sentiment is drawn in grand

oudines, magnified many times, but not in the least caricatured. The

patriotic prejudice goes everywhere. It lives at the very roots of life.

Truthful men will tell you that London is vilely supplied with cabs in

comparison with Melbourne. They believe it. They will tell you that

the flavours of English meats, game, fruits and vegetables are vastly

inferior to those they know at home. And they believe it. To the

unprejudiced observer Melbourne is the worst cabbed city in the world,

or amongst the worst. A gourmet would find a residence in Australia a

purgatory. For my own part, I have learned in a variety of rough

schools at whatsoever meat I sit therewith to be content. In matters of

gourmandise I am content wi' little and cantie wi' mair.

But, Shade of Savarin! How I relish my morning sole, after two years

banishment from that delicious creature! How I savour my saddle of

mutton! What a delightful thing I now know my English strawberry to be!

But to the New South Welshman my doctrine is a stumbling-block and to

the Victorian it is foolishness. Mr Sala preached it years ago and the

connoisseurs of the Greater Britain of the south have never forgiven

him.

Another patriotic delusion is the glorious climate. The plain fact is

that there is no such thing as a climate. They take their weather in

laminae, set on end. You walk from the tropics to the pole in five

minutes. A meteorological astonishment lies in wait at every corner of

the street. It blows hot, it blows cold, it scorches, it freezes, it

rains, it shines, and all within the compass of an hour. Yet these

wonderful Australians love their weather. Other people would endure

it. They brag about it. I think they must be the happiest people in the

world.

By the way, I must qualify, before I forget to do so, the judgment

expressed above with respect to the Australian table. I tasted in

Adelaide a favourable specimen of the wild turkey, and I believe it to

be the noblest of game birds. Its flavour is exquisite and you may

carve at its bounteous breast for quite a little army of diners. And

the remembrance of one friendly feast puts me in mind of many. Is there

anywhere else on the surface of our planet a hospitality so generous,

so free and boundless, as that extended to the stranger in Australia? If

there be I have not known it. They meet you with so complete a welcome.

They envelop you with kindness. There is no _arrière pensée_ in their

cordiality, no touch lacking in sincerity. This is a characteristic of

the country. The native born Australian differs in many respects from

the original stock, but in this particular he remains unchanged. You

present a letter of introduction and this makes you the immediate friend

of its recipient. He spares no pains to learn what you desire and then

his whole aim and business in life for the moment is to fulfil your

wishes. Your host will probably be less polished than an Englishman

living in a like house and boasting an equal income, but his _bonhomie_

is unsurpassed. I used to think there was nothing like an English

welcome. Australia has killed that bit of English prejudice.

This very openness of welcome, the sincerity of heart in which your host

stands before you, is the means whereby the traveller first learns to

be dissatisfied. He has come out with his own judgment of things raying

from him in all directions--a very porcupine of pre-conception. He is

not merely persuaded that the colonies are loyal but he is certain they

are loyal after his own conceptions of loyalty.

So long as he encounters only the old folks he will find his

pre-conceptions flattered, but he will not go long before he meets

a member of the A.N.A. (which letters being interpreted signify the

Australian Natives Association), and then he must be prepared to be

astonished beyond measure. In a while, if he be a man of sense, he will

begin to see how natural the position of the Australian native is, and

then he will cease to be astonished, though he may still be grieved.

The society is large and powerful. It includes within its ranks a great

number of the most capable of the rising men and the younger of those

already risen. Speaking broadly, its aspiration is for a separate

national life. It will “cut the painter”--that is the phrase--which

ties it to the old ship of state. In its ranks are many who love the

old country and reverence its history and traditions, and these an

Englishman only remarks with a readier excuse for what he must esteem an

error. But there are others, and the melancholy fact, too long concealed

or slighted, is that they are many and growing in numbers, who hate

England and all things English. There are many, not stigmatised as

dullards or as fools, who publicly oppose the teaching of English

history in the State schools. The feeling against England is not a

fantastical crank, it is a movement growing yearly in strength. I have

seen men keeping their seats in serious protesting silence when the

health of the Queen has been drunk at public banquets, and have found in

private converse that hundreds approve their action but do not follow

it because they dislike to be thought singular. The out-and-out

journalistic supporters of the country vilify the mother country as

a whole. They belittle its history and besmirch its rulers. Loyal

Australians pooh-pooh these prints and entreat the stranger within

their gates to believe that they are despised and without influence.

The stranger has only to travel to learn better than this. The strongest

current of Australian feeling is setting with the tide of growing power

against the mother country.

That this statement will excite anger and derision in the minds of many

Australians is certain. They live entrenched in the flutters of their

own opinion, and are blind to the fact of the power which is mustering

against them. They are as little instructed as to what is going

on around them as we are at home, and our ignorance of our great

dependencies is shameful and criminal. Our colonial governors, from some

of whom we are supposed ourselves to learn something, and many of whom

have been men of especial capacity, do not come in contact with the

crowd. Lord Carrington saw more of the people amongst whom he lived than

any governor before him, and I had from him a single story of a man of

the country who expressed in drunken Saxon his opinion of existing forms

of government; but the tale was jocularly told and was not supposed to

have any importance. It could have had no importance to one who found it

a single instance, as a governor would be likely to do. A governor sees

smooth things. All sorts of people (except the working sort) frequent

his receptions--the fashionable classes, who are far more loyal to

England for the most part than the English themselves, their fringe, and

then the wealthier of the tradespeople. It is proven every day that a

democracy is the happiest hunting ground for a man with a title. The

very rarity of the distinction makes it more precious to those who value

it, and the titled governors of one of our great colonies occupies

a position which is vastly higher in public esteem than that of his

fellow-noblemen at home. He is the local fount of honour. To sit at

his table, and to be on terms of friendship with him is to gratify the

highest social ambition. He is the direct representative of the Crown,

and the people who desire to associate with him must not have views

which are inimical to existing forms of government, or, if they hold

them, they must keep them carefully concealed. The governor responds to

the toast of his own health and talks of those ties which bind and must

bind the mother country to her children. His hearers are at one with

him, and cheer him with hearty vigour. Absence from the dear old land

has made their hearts grow fonder. Their loyalty is perfervid. Everybody

goes home in a sentimental glow and the native born working-man reads

his _Sydney Bulletin_ over a long-sleever and execrates the name of the

country which bore his father and mother.

The journal just named is very capably written and edited. The brightest

Australian verse and the best Australian stories find their way into

its columns. Its illustrations are sometimes brilliant, though the high

standard is not always maintained. And having thus spoken an honest mind

in its favour I leave myself at liberty to say that it is probably the

wrongest-headed and most mischievous journal in the world. People try to

treat it as a negligible quantity when they disagree with it. But I have

seen as much of the surface of the country and as much of its people

as most men, and I have found the pestilent print everywhere, and

everywhere have found it influential. For some time past it has been

telling blood-curdling stories of the iniquities of prison rule in

Tasmania, with the tacit conclusion that nothing but the power of the

working classes makes a repetition of these atrocities impossible.

It compares the Russian Government with the English, and compares it

favourably. It loses no opportunity of degrading all things English as

English. England and the Englishman are as red rags to its bull-headed

rage. Of course, its readers are not all sincere, though doubtless some

of them are. Vast numbers of people who do not agree with it read it

for its stage and social gossip; but there is a class of working-men

who take its absurdities for gospel, and it is one of the factors in

the growing contempt for the mother country which is noticeable amongst

uninstructed Australians.

Another and more potent factor is supplied by Englishmen themselves. I

have never in my life known anything more offensively insolent than the

patronising tolerance which I have seen the travelling Cockney extend

to men of the colonies, who were worth a thousand of him. I have seen

an Englishman unintentionally insult a host at his own table, and set

everybody on tenterhooks by his blundering assumption that the colonists

are necessarily inferior to home-bred people. Nobody likes this sort of

thing. Nobody finds himself feeling more kindly to the race which sends

out that intolerable kind of man.

“Met a girl the other day,” says the eye-glassed idiot, beaming

fatuously round the table, “little colonial girl, don't you know. She'd

read George Eliot. Never was more surprised in my life.” And this to a

company of Australian ladies and gentlemen bred and born.

This kind of person has his influence, and on that ground he is to be

regretted. The students of men and manners find him as good as meat and

drink; but we cannot all be Touchstones, and perhaps, on the whole, it

would be well if he were buried.

Yet another and a still more potent factor is found in the habit which

prevails amongst English fathers and guardians of sending out their

incurable failures to the Colonies. “You shall have one more chance,

sir, and it shall be the last. You shall have £100 and your passage out

to Australia. This is the last I shall do for you. Now go and never

let me see your face again.” So the whisky-bitten _vaurien_ goes out

to Melbourne, has an attack of delirium tremens aboard ship, finds

his alcoholic allowance thenceforward stopped by the doctor's orders,

swaggers his brief on the block in Collins Street, hangs about the bars,

cursing the colonies and all men and all things colonial in a loud and

masterful voice, to the great and natural contentment of the people of

the country, pawns his belongings bit by bit, loafs in search of the

eleemosynary half-crown or sixpence, and finally goes up country to be

loathed and despised as a tenderfoot, and to swell the statistics of

insanity and disease. The most loyal and friendly of Australians resent

this importation. The uninstructed and untravelled native accepts him as

a pattern Englishman, and the satirical prints help out that conclusion

in his mind. There is no signboard on the Australian continent that

rubbish of this sort may be shot there, and the English tendency to

throw its waste in that direction has never been regarded in a friendly

spirit. We gave them our convicts for a start and now we give them our

most dangerous incapables. They do not like this and will never be got

to like it. At the Bluff in New Zealand people show the stranger the

southernmost gas-lamp in the world. It is the correct thing for the

stranger to touch this in order that he may tell of the fact thereafter.

The traveller may take the spirit of Sheridan's excellent advice to his

son, and _say_ he has touched it, but as a rule he takes the trouble

to go down and do it. I was escorted for this festal ceremony by a

resident, and leaning against that southernmost lamp-post was a Scot

in an abject state of drunkeness, and as Stevenson says of a similar

personage, “radiating dirt and humbug.” Nigh at hand was another

drunkard, sitting pipe in mouth on an upturned petroleum-tin, and the

two were conversing. “Et's a nice letde coal'ny,” said the man against

the lamp-post, “a very nice lettle coal'ny, but it wants inergy, and it

wants interprise, and it wants (hie) sobriety.” He spoke with a face

of immeasurable gravity, and I laughed so that I forgot to touch the

lamp-post.

There are countless little matters which help the growing distaste for

English people in the Australian mind. Our London journals for the most

part leave us in profound ignorance of the colonies. We see now and

again a telegram which is Greek to most of us, but we get no consecutive

information about our kindred over seas.

The colonists are perhaps curiously tender to the feeling of the mother

country and they resent this indifference. It is difficult to express

the varying sentiments of a community, but in many respects the

Australia of to-day resembles the America which Charles Dickens saw on

his first visit. There is an eager desire to ascertain the opinion of

the passing English visitor, and this exists inexplicably enough even

amongst the people who despise the visitor, and the land from which he

comes. They ask for candour, but they are angry if you do not praise. A

good many of them, whilst just as eager for judgment as the rest, resent

praise as patronage. It is certain that, in a very little while,

this raw sensitiveness will die away, and leave a feeling of national

security, which will not need to be shored up by every wanderer's

opinion. At present the curiosity for the traveller's opinion is a

litde embarrassing, and more than once I was reminded of a drawing of

Du Maurier's in _Punch_ where a big man standing over a little one

declares: “If any man told me that was not a Titian I would knock him

down, and I want your candid opinion.”

There is a stage of national hobbledehoyhood and Australia has not yet

grown out of it. Vanity, shyness, an intermingling of tenderness and

contempt for outside opinion, a determination to exact consideration

before yielding it--all these are characteristics. The working man is

surly to the man who is better dressed than himself, not because he

is naturally a surly fellow, but because he has not yet found a less

repellent fashion of asserting independence. I shall come to the

consideration of the great colonial labour question by-and-by, but the

attitude of the working man is curiously consonant with the monetary

characteristics of the land he lives in. Labour is growing towards such

a manhood of freedom as has never been achieved elsewhere. It, too, has

reached the hobbledehoy height and has all the signs which mark that

elevation, the brief aspirations, the splendid unformed hopes, and the

touchy irascibility.

I have said what I can to justify the dislike of England, but have by

no means exhausted the explanations of the fact There are explanations

which do not justify and the most important of all seems to me to come

under that head. The greatest danger to the contented union of the

Empire is the protecting of a selfishness so abnormal as to excite anger

and impatience. But since anger and impatience are the worst weapons

with which it is possible to fight, it will be wise to lay them by,

and to discuss the question unemotionally. Australia is governed by the

working man. The working man has got hold of a good thing in Australia,

and he has resolved to keep it and, if he can, to make it better. He has

got it into his head that the one thing to be afraid of is the influx of

population. He takes no count of the fact that all the wisest men of

the country admit the crying need of people--that labour everywhere is

needed for the development of giant resources. His loaf is his, and he

is quite righteously determined that no man shall take it from him.

He is not in the least degree determined that he shall not take away

another man's loaf; but that is a different question. England is the one

country in the world which can, under existing circumstances, or under

circumstances easily conceivable, seek to send any appreciable number of

new people into the colony. Therefore England is to be feared and hated,

and any scheme which may be promulgated in favour of further emigration

is to be resisted to the uttermost. Men talk of war as the answer to an

attempt to deplete by emigration the overcrowded labour markets of the

home country. No public man who sets the least value upon his position

dares discuss this question. The feeling is too deep-rooted and its

manifestations are too passionate. The scheme propounded by General

Booth afforded an opportunity for a striking manifestation of this fact.

Long before the nature of the scheme was known or guessed at, before any

of the safeguards surrounding it were hinted, it was denounced from

one end of the country to the other. It is not my present business to

express any opinion as to the feasibility of the plan. The point is that

the mere mention of it was enough to excite an intense and spontaneous

opposition. Australia will never, except under compulsion, allow any

large body of Englishmen to enter into possession of any portion of her

territories. The ports for emigration on a large scale are finally and

definitely closed.

The population of Australia is 3,326,000. These people have an area of

3,050,000 square miles from which to draw the necessaries and luxuries

of life. Suppose it be allowed that one half the entire country is not

and will not be habitable by man. Australians themselves would resent

this estimate as being shamelessly exaggerated, but the supposition is,

so far as the argument goes, in their favour. Take away that imagined

useless half and every man, woman and child in the community would still

have very nearly half a square mile of land if the country were equally

divided. It is evident that the populace is unequal to the proper

exploitation of the continent Let them multiply as the human race never

multiplied before and they must still remain unequal to the task before

them for many centuries. The cry raised is that of “Australia for the

Australians.” Well, who are the Australians? Are they the men of the old

British stock who made the country what it is, or the men who had the

luck to be born to the inheritance of a splendid position, for which

they have not toiled? It is the honest simple truth, and no man ought to

be angry at the statement of it--though many will be--that Australia

was built up by British enterprise and British money. It is a British

possession still, and without British protection, British gold, and the

trade which exists between it and Britain, would be in a bad way. Looked

at dispassionately, the cry of “Australia for the Australians” seems

hardly reasonable. The mother country has a right to something of a

share in the bargain.

The argument would be infinitely less strong if the Australians were

using Australia. But they are not. The vast Melbourne, of which Victoria

is so proud, holds half the population of the colony, and produces

little or nothing. Melbourne is the city of brass plates. There are more

brass-plates to the acre in the thoroughfares which diverge from

Collins Street than could be found in any other city of the world.

The brass-plate, as all the world knows, is the badge of the

non-producer--the parasite, the middleman, agent, call him what you

will--the man who wears a tall hat and black coat, and who lives in

a villa, and lives on and by the products of the labour of others. As

society is constituted he is an essential when he exists in reasonable

numbers. In Melbourne his numbers are out of reason. For almost every

producer in Victoria there is a non-producer in the capital. In the

early days men went into the country and set themselves to clear and

till the soil. That impulse of energy has died out and a new one has

succeeded it which is infinitely less profitable and wholesome. The

tendency is now towards the city. The one source of permanent wealth

is neglected, and commerce and speculation occupy the minds of men who

fifty years ago would have raised mutton and wool, corn and wine. With

every increase of growth in the great city there is a cry for rural

labour to preserve the necessary balance of things. The call is not

listened to or answered, and Melbourne is a hundred times more abnormal

than London. London deals with the trade of the world, and a good half

of its population could not be dispensed with. Within its limits five

and a half millions do the business of a hundred millions. In Melbourne

half a million do the business of another half a million, and the

country necessarily suffers. No student of social economy can deny the

position, but the working man will have it otherwise. He is the ruler

of Australia and the destinies of a people, pointed out by nature for

greatness, are stationary in his hands. He is worth studying, however,

and to convince him may mean the salvation of a continent. There, as

here, the working man is the victim of a prodigious blunder--a mistake

so obvious that the on-looker wonders at his blindness. A month or two

ago he was in the thick of a struggle which was everywhere called a

fight with capital. The real battle, however, was never with capital for

a moment. The one engagement--and it ranged all along the line

for months--was between organised and unorganised labour, between

the unionists and non-unionists. Wherever a working man of the union

declared against the conditions imposed by the employer, a working man

outside the union accepted those conditions. The capitalist changed

his staff--that was all. The unionists were thrown permanently out of

employment in large numbers, and when at last the strike fizzled out,

their leaders made a melancholy proclamation of victory, which deceived

nobody, not even themselves. The unionist clock in Australia has been

put back a year or two. It is probable that the men will know with whom

they have to fight before they are again lured into conflict. It is an

old adage that much will have more. The Australian working man is the

best fed, the best paid, the best housed, and the least worked of all

the workers of the world. In the great towns house rent is dear, much

dearer than it has a right to be in so new and so wide a country.

This is the consequence of the rush for secularisation and the

ensuing neglect of the resources of the land. Clothing is dear as the

consequence of protective imposts. The Australian working man is a

staunch protectionist, being somehow persuaded that it is essential to

his interests that he should suffer for the benefit of his only enemy,

the middleman. There are hundreds of restaurants in the second-rate

streets of colonial towns where you may see painted up a legend, “All

Meals--6d.” For that small sum a man may have a sufficiency of hot

or cold beef or mutton, bread, tea and a choice of vegetables. I can

testify from personal knowledge that the meals are well cooked, well

served and plentiful. I have eaten a worse luncheon in a London club or

restaurant than I found at one of these eating-houses in Sydney and have

paid five times the price, although it has to be confessed that for

five times the price one _can_ get a finer meal. More wholesome or more

plentiful fare no man need ask for.

Well, as I have said, much will have more. The working man has got his

whole programme filled up. There is one vote for one man, and about that

fact almost the whole land is jubilant--though the practical good of it

may as yet be a problem. The aspiration expressed in the old quatrain is

fulfilled.

“Eight hours work,

Eight hours play,

Eight hours sleep,

And eight 'bob' a day.”

The Eight Hours movement has been crowned with success, and there is a

magnificent annual procession to commemorate it. It is announced that a

movement is to be set on foot for the further reduction of the hours

of labour. Six hours a day has to be the limit of the future. The comic

journals, or to speak by the card, the journals which study to be comic,

prophesy four hours, two hours, and then no hours at all; but these

celestial visions are out of the working man's eyeshot.

Here and there an individual may be found who, being entrusted with an

irresponsible power, would not desire to use it tyrannically. But since

corporations are never so moral, so high-thinking so forbearing as

individuals, corporate bodies tend always and everywhere to the misuse

of their powers, and demand constantly to be held in check by some

influence outside their own. The working man of the Antipodes is told

so often that all the power (as well as all the freedom and the honour)

lies in his hands, that he is disposed to do strange things.

But a mere glance at the history of two phases of the great strikes

which have lately shaken Australian society may be of service.

In New Zealand, where, under conditions similar to those of Victoria,

New South Wales and Queensland, the labourer has grown to think himself

more worthy of his hire than anybody else could possibly be, the fight

between unionists and non-unionists, with capital as an interested

spectator, began on a curiously trivial question. A firm of printers

and stationers in Christchurch were ordered to reinstate or discharge

an employee. The firm declined to obey the mandate of the union, and

an order went forth from the representatives of the latter body to the

effect that no one belonging to any of its branches should handle the

goods of the obdurate company. This was all very well in its way,

until the order touched the railway hands, who are in the employ of the

government. The union appealed to the railway commissioners to remain

“neutral” and not to carry the goods of the offending firm. The

commissioners responded that they were the servants of the public; that

it was not part of their business to recognise the quarrel, but that

it was their business to carry for any and every citizen who did not

infringe their rules. The representatives of the union renewed their

appeal for “neutrality.” Why should these domineering commissioners take

the side of capital and fight in its interests? The commissioners again

wrote that they were the public carriers, that they had no right to

refuse to work for any law-abiding citizen, that they had no place or

part in the quarrel, and intended simply and merely to do the duty for

which they were appointed. The din which arose on this final declaration

was at once melancholy and comic.

Here was the government lending all its power to crush the working man.

Here was the old class tyranny which had created class hatreds in the

old country! This was what we were coming to after having emancipated

ourselves from the trammels of a dead or effete superstition! Here was

a government so crassly wicked and purposely blind as to profess

neutrality and yet refuse to fight our battles! What had we--the working

men of New Zealand--asked for? We asked that the government should hold

our enemy while we punched him; and while they traitorously proclaimed

their neutrality, they refused this simple request for fair play.

Therefore are we, the working men of New Zealand, naturally incensed,

and at the next election we will shake these worthless people out of

office, and we will elect men like Fish, who know what neutrality really

means!

The Hon. Mr Fish was one of the labourers' faithful. The palpable

interference of the Commissioners wounded him profoundly.

The more recent strike of the Queensland shearers has afforded

opportunity for a display of an equal faculty of logic and

reasonableness. The shearers, at loggerheads with the squatters,

proposed to arrange their differences by arson. They threatened openly

to fire the grass upon those vast northern plains where fire is the

thing most to be dreaded amongst many and terrible enemies. They not

only threatened but they carried their threats into effect in many

places; and but for the exceptional rains, which mercifully interfered

between them and their purpose, they would have created scenes of

boundless desolation. Here again a government has no sense of fair-play.

Troops were sent to watch the shearers' camps and to prevent active

hostilities. A natural thrill of horror ran through the country at this

autocratic and unwarrantable act. Here at the Antipodes we have

founded a democracy, and in a democracy the government motto should

be nonintervention. The unionist workmen roared with indignation at

countless meetings. Why were not the shearers allowed to settle

the dispute their own way? Why were the poor men to be threatened,

intimidated, bullied by armed force? A continent cried shame. When, in

that eight hours' procession to which I have already twice referred the

shearers' deputation rode by, they were received with rolling applause

all along the line, and a free people cheered the victims of oppression.

In the middle of all this madness it was good to see that the greatest

of the democratic journals had the courage of honesty and spoke its mind

plainly. The _Melbourne Age_ is a very wealthy and powerful journal, but

it risked much, for the moment at least, in opposing the mingled

voices of the populace. Excited leaders of the people denounced it in

unmeasured epithets, and the crowd boo-hooed outside its offices in

Collins Street, but the writers of the journal went their way unmoved,

as British journalists have a knack of doing.

I find here an opportunity of saying the most favourable word I can

anywhere speak for the Australian Colonies. The Press is amongst the

best and most notable in the world. The great journals of Melbourne and

Sydney are models of newspaper conduct, and are nowhere to be surpassed

for extent and variety of information, for enterprise, liberality,

and sound adhesion to principle, or for excellence of sub-editorial

arrangement, or for force, justice, and exactness in expression. It is

not only in the greater centres that the Press owns and displays these

admirable characteristics. Adelaide, Brisbane, Dunedin, Christchurch,

Auckland, Wellington have each journals of which no city in the world

need be ashamed; and when the limitations which surround them are taken

into consideration their excellence appears all the more remarkable and

praiseworthy.

It is not unnatural perhaps that a man trained in English journalism and

having worked in every grade of it should esteem it highly. But allowing

all I can for personal prejudice and striving to look impartially upon

it and its rivals, I am compelled to think it far and away the best

in the world. In Australia the high traditions of the parent Press are

preserved, and among many strange and novel and perplexing signs one can

but gratefully and hopefully recognise the splendid enterprise and the

lofty sense of public obligation which guide the youngest school of

journalism in the world.

In one respect Australian journalism surpasses English. We have nothing

to show which will at all compare with the _Australasian_ or the

_Leader_; but it is easy to see that they and similar journals of other

cities (which are all worthy of the same high praise) are established

excellences to local conditions. These great weekly issues give all the

week's news and all the striking articles which have appeared in the

daily journals of which they are at once the growth and compendium.

They do much more than this, for they include whatever the gardener,

the agriculturist, the housewife, the lady of fashion, the searcher of

general literature, the chess-player, the squatter can most desire to

know. They provide for 'all sorts of tastes and needs, and between their

first sheet and their last, they render to their readers what we in

England buy half a score of special journals to secure. The reason for

their existence is simple. There is not population enough to support

the specialist as we know him at home, and an eager and enquiring people

will be served.

The first unescapable belief of the English traveller is that the

Australian is a transplanted Englishman pure and simple. A residence of

only a few months kills that notion outright. Many new characteristics

present themselves. To arrest one of the most noticeable--there is

perhaps no such pleasure-loving and pleasure-seeking people in the

world. I wish now I had thought of securing trustworthy statistics with

respect to the number of people who present themselves on the colonial

racecourses within the limit of a year. It would be interesting to know

what proportion of the population is given over to the breeding and

training of horseflesh and the riding of races. The Melbourne people

exult--and not unjustifiably--in the Melbourne Cup and on the spectacle

presented at its running. That spectacle is quite unique as far as I

know. Neither the Derby nor the Grand Prix can rival it for its view of

packed humanity, and neither can approach it for the decorous order of

the crowd. Is it Jane Taylor who tells the story of an English village?

I am not quite sure, but I remember the genesis. You must have a church

to begin with. For a church you want a parson and a parson must have a

clerk. From this established nucleus grows everything. In Australia they

begin with the race-course. This statement is not to be accepted as a

satiric fable, but as a literal fact. Nearly two years ago, travelling

in the Blue Mountains--miles upon miles away from everywhere--I came

upon a huge board erected in the bush. The board bore this inscription,

“Projected road to site of intended race-course.” There was not a house

visible, or the sign of the beginning of a house, but half-an-hour

later, in apparent virgin forest, I found another board nailed to a

big eucalypt. It had a painted legend on it, setting forth that these

eligible building sites were to be let or sold. The solemn forest stood

everywhere, and the advertisement of the eligible building sites was

the only evidence of man's presence. It was for the benefit of future

dwellers here that the road to the site of the “intended race-course”

had been “projected.”

Again there are more theatres and more theatregoers to the population

than can probably be found elsewhere. The houses and the performances

are alike admirable. Like the Americans, the Australians endure many

performances which would not be thought tolerable in England, but they

mount their productions with great pomp and luxury. Whatever is best in

England finds an early rendering in the great cities, and for serious

work the general standard is as high as in Paris or in London. The

Princess Theatre in Melbourne has given renditions of comic opera which

are not unfairly to be compared, for dressing, _mise-en-scéne_ and

artistic finish to those of the Savoy. The general taste is for jollity,

bright colour, cheerful music. Comedy runs broader than it does at

home and some of the most excellent artists have learned a touch of

buffoonery. The public taste condones it, may even be said to relish it

to _finesse_. The critics of the Press are, in the main, too favourable,

but that is a stricture which applies to modern criticism in general.

There is a desire to say smooth words everywhere and to keep things

pleasant.

Outside the southernmost parts of Victoria Australia has a climate, and

the people can rejoice in midnight picnics. In the glorious southern

moonlight one can read the small print of a newspaper. The air is cool

after the overwhelming furnace of the day. The moonlight jaunts

and junketings are characteristic and pleasant, and they offer an

opportunity for the British matron who flourishes there as here--heaven

bless her--to air her sense of morals in letters to the newspapers.

The creed of athleticism speaks its latest word here. The burial of poor

young Searle, the champion sculler of the world, was a remarkable and

characteristic sight. That he was a great athlete and a good fellow

seems indisputable, but to the outsider the feeling excited by his early

and mournful death looked disproportionate. Every newspaper, from the

stately _Argus_ down to the smallest weekly organ of the village sang

his dying song. He was praised and lamented out of reason, even for

a champion sculler. The regret seemed exaggerated. At his funeral

obsequies the streets were thronged, and thousands followed in his

train. It was mournful that a young man should be struck down in the

pride and vigour of his strength. It is always mournful that this

should be so, but it is common, and the passion of the lament provoked

weariness. The feeling was doubtless genuine, but it might possibly have

had an object worthier of a nation's mourning.

Another fine athlete and good fellow is Frank Slavin, the prize-fighter.

I have acknowledged a hundred times that I belong to a lost cause. My

sympathies are with the old exploded prize-ring. Righdy or wrongly, I

trace the growth of crimes of violence to the abolition of that glorious

institution. I want to see it back again, with its rules of fair-play,

and for its contempt for pain and its excellent tuition in temper and

forbearance. I am an enthusiast, and being almost alone, am therefore

the more enthusiastic. But I grew tired of the wild exultation in

Slavin's prowess, the mad rejoicing over a victory which meant less than

it would have done in the days which I am old enough to remember. In

Australia better be an athlete than almost anything, except perhaps a

millionaire.

Take the average native and ask him what he knows of Marcus Clarke, of

James Brunton Stevens, of Harpur, Kendal, or the original of Browning's

_Waring_. He will have no response for you, but he will reel off for you

the names of the best bowler, the best bat, the champion forward,

the cunningest of half-backs. The portraits of football players are

published by the dozen and the score, and the native knows the names and

achievements of every man thus signalled out for honour. In England the

schoolboys would know all about these people, but in Australia the world

at large is interested. The bank clerk who has a recognised position

in a football team enjoys professional privileges which another may

not claim. His athletic prowess reflects upon him in his business. His

manager allows him holidays for his matches, and is considerate with him

with regard to hours for training.

From all this one would naturally argue the existence of a specially

athletic people, but the conclusion is largely illusory. The worship of

athleticism breeds a professional or semi-professional class, but it is

surprising to know how little an effect it has upon the crowd of city

people who join in all the rites of adoration. The popularity of the

game is answerable for the existence of the barracker whose outward

manifestations of the inward man are as disagreeable as they well can

be. The barracker is the man who shouts for his own party, and by yells

of scorn and expletives of execration seeks to daunt the side against

which he has put his money or his partisan aspirations. When he gathers

in his thousands, as he does at all matches of importance, he is

surprisingly objectionable. He is fluent in oath and objurgation,

cursing like an inmate of the pit. This same man is orderly enough at a

race meeting and takes his pleasure mildly there.

The barracker and the larrikin are akin. The gamin of Paris, grown up

to early manhood, fed on three meat meals a day, supplied with plenteous

pocket money, and allowed to rule a tribe of tailors, would be a

larrikin. The New York hoodlum is a larrikin with a difference. The

British rough is a larrikin also with a difference. The Australian

representative of the great blackguard tribe is better dressed, better

fed and more liberally provided in all respects than his _confrere_ of

other nations. He is the street bully, _par excellence_, inspired to

this tyranny by unfailing beef and beer. When Mr Bumble heard of Oliver

Twist's resistance to the combined authority of Mrs Sowerberry and

Charlotte and Noah Claypole, he repudiated the idea of madness which

was offered as an explanation of the boy's conduct. “It isn't madness,

ma'am,” said Mr Bumble, “it's meat.”

There is the true explanation of the larrikin. He is meat-fed and is

thereby inspired with ferocity, Darwin, if I remember righdy, tells of a

sheep which was gradually accustomed to a flesh diet. Its wool began

to take the coarseness of hair and the mild beast grew savage.

The fore-runners of the larrikin were never very sheep-like in all

probability, for if one could trace his pedigree, it would in most cases

be found that he is the descendant of the true British cad. But he has

improved upon the ancestral pattern and become a pest of formidable

characteristics and dimensions. The problem he presents has never been

faced, but it will have to be met in one way or another before long.

The stranger is forced to the conclusion that magistrates are absurdly

lenient. I recall a case of some few months ago where a gang of well-fed

ruffians assaulted an old man in Flinders Street, Melbourne. The attack

was shown to have been utterly unprovoked, and the victim's injuries

were serious. Three of the most active participators in the sport were

seized by the police and were each sent to prison for six weeks, A

sentence of six months, with a brace of sound floggings thrown in, would

have gone nearer to meet the exigencies of the case; but there is a

widespread objection to the use of the cat, the argument being that it

is wrong to brutalise these refined young men by its application. The

same spirit of false sentiment exists in England, but in a less marked

degree.

Crimes of violence are of exceptionally frequent occurrence and it

is still felt necessary to punish rape by the imposition of the final

penalty.

The democracy is determined to test itself completely and female

suffrage seems to be within measurable distance. It is conceivable that

it may have a refining effect, and that it may act as a curative, though

the experiment is full of risk. The one-man one-vote principle, together

with the payment of members of the legislative chambers, has not, so

far, achieved the happiest conceivable results. The parliament of New

South Wales is occasionally notorious as a bear-garden. The late Mr

MacEhlone (who once informed the Speaker that, when he encountered

outside an honourable gentleman, to whom the ruling of the chair

compelled him to apologise, he would “spit in his eye “) has a worthy

successor in the presence of a Mr Crick. Sometime ago Mr Crick was

expelled by an indignant house, wearied of his prolonged indecencies of

demeanour, but his constituency sent him back untamed and rejoicing--his

mission being to prove that the Ministry was composed of thieves and

liars. The miserable charges dwindled into nothing; but one at least

of his constituents is persuaded that the debates, as printed in the

newspapers, would lose so much of sparkle if Mr Crick were banished

permanendy from the house that the breakfast enjoyment of the public

more than atoned for his presence there. The women are notoriously

deficient in humour, and it is possible that, when they come to vote,

the reign of Mr Crick and his like will be over.

The best hope which lies before Australia at this hour is the federation

of her several colonies. Her determination to keep her population

European can hardly fail of approval, but the immediate work to her hand

is to consolidate her own possessions. The attempt to find material for

six separate parliaments in a population of three and a half millions

has, it must be confessed in all candour, succeeded beyond reasonable

expectations, but concentration will be of service. There will be a

laudable rivalry between the colonies which will result in the choice of

the fittest men, and a combination parliament will be a more useful and

dignified body than has yet been assembled within colonial limits.

But this is one of the smallest of the results to be anticipated. The

ridiculous tariff restrictions which now harass individuals and restrict

commerce will pass away and with them the foolish hatreds which

exist between the rival colonies. At present if one desire to anger

a Victorian he has only to praise New South Wales. Would he wound a

Sydneyite in the fifth rib, let him laud Melbourne. There is a dispute

pending about the proprietorship of the Murray River. It lies between

the two colonies and New South Wales claims it to the Victorian bank.

When it overflowed disastrously a couple of years ago, an irate farmer

on the Victorian side is said to have written to Sir Henry Parkes,

bidding him come and pump the confounded river off his land, and

threatening to agitate for a duty (by the gallon) on imported New South

Wales water. The dispute is nothing less than childish, but I have the

personal assurance of the leading statesman of New South Wales that he

is perfectly satisfied with the position. It is probable that he sees

in the existing riparian rights a chance for a concession which may win

concessions in its turn. The Victorians are imminently dissatisfied and

would seem to have a right to be so. Federation is on all accounts to be

desired, but it has yet to be fought for, and will only be gained with

difficulty. Wise men long for it, but the petty jealousies of rival

states will hold it back from its birth-time as long as delay is

possible. How infinitesimally small these jealousies are nothing short

of a residence in the land can teach anybody. Wisdom will have its

way in the long run, but the belief of the veteran leader of New South

Wales, that he will live to see the union of the Australian colonies, is

a dream. It is a dream which only his political enemies will grudge him.

The wide and varied resources of the country, and the ups and downs

which men experience, breed a merciless courage which in some of its

manifestations is very fine. During my first stay in Melbourne the

waiter who attended to my wants at Menzies' Hotel brought up, with

something of a dubious air, a scrap of blue paper, on which was written,

“Your old friend------.” I instructed him to show my visitor in, and a

minute later beheld the face of an old companion, a little more grizzled

and wrinkled than I had last seen it, but otherwise unchanged. When we

had shaken hands and he was seated, I found that he was dressed like

a common labourer; and in answer to my inquiry he told me, bravely and

brightly, that he had fallen upon evil times. “I should like a glass of

champagne, old man,” said he when I asked him to refresh himself, “and

a square foot will run to enjoy it.” We talked away, and he told me of a

history of success and failure, and at last he explained the purpose

of his visit. He wished to hear the three lectures I was advertised to

deliver, and he had come to ask me for a pass. “I shall not disgrace

you, old boy,” he added, “I have been down on my luck for a couple of

years past but I am not going to stay where I am, and _I have kept

my dress clothes_.” I do not know that I ever saw a finer bit of

unconscious courage, and the incident gave me a certain faith in the

spirit of the colonies which has never left me. There is a gambling

element in it no doubt but the ever present sense of hope is a great and

valuable thing. It finds such a place in a new country as it can never

have in an old one. The English gentleman who in England had fallen to

be a mere hewer of wood and drawer of water would never have “kept his

dress clothes.” He would have known that he was permanendy under,

but here the British pluck had rational hope of recovery, and on that

rational hope survived and even flourished.

And this leads me back to that question of the self-confidence of the

Australian-born colonial with which I started. Hope looks so sure, that

what Australia wants and has not it seems self-evident in a little while

she will have. And so she might if she would go the right way for it,

and instead of keeping three-quarters of her sparse inhabitants in

towns, would take the work that lies before her nose and subdue the

land and replenish it; and instead of shutting the gates deliberately on

rival labour, would draw the stranger to her coasts and pour population

on vast tracts of land which now lie barren and unproductive, but only

wait for the hand of man to break into beauty and yield riches.

In a hundred ways timidity would have been criminal, but when one sees

in what direction courage and hope have led the way, and to what

effort they have prompted, a little over-confidence looks pardonable.

Everywhere the colonists have worked for the future. They have made

railways and roads which will not be fully used for many and many a day.

Their public buildings are made to last, and are of dimensions nobler

than present needs can ask for. Generations to come will laud the wisdom

and the generosity of the men of the last fifty years. In certain places

there is an admirable spirit of emulation amongst private citizens who

have set themselves to beautify the towns in which they live. This is

very notable in Ballarat, where it has grown to be an excellent fashion

to present the town with statues. Should that fashion continue and

should the same spirit of local patriotism prevail, Ballarat may grow

to be the Athens of the Southern Hemisphere. The plan is a little large

perhaps, but it is in the colonial fashion, and one would willingly

believe in the chances of its ultimate justification.

The unborn generations will have to thank their predecessors for some

of the loveliest blessings of the world. Every town has its gardens, the

property of the citizens. Those of Brisbane, Sydney, and Adelaide are

extensively beautiful. But more beautiful than the grounds themselves is

the inscription which I found at the gates of the loveliest of them

all. I wish I had the _ipsissima verba_ of it, for it seemed to be

characterised by an admirable simplicity and directness. The sense of it

is this,--

These gardens belong to the public and the owners are

requested to protect their property.

There to my mind speaks the true voice of democracy, and that

inscription afforded me the pleasantest spectacle I saw in the course of

my two years pilgrimage through the Australias.

Recollections With Photogravure Portrait of the Author and a number of Original Letters, of which one by George Meredith and another by Robert Louis Stevenson are reproduced in facsimile · 第 13 / 17 章