antiquities worthy of attention; Mr. Williams’s account of which, from
his being a resident near the spot, appearing to be the best, as well as
containing a most full and interesting description of the ancient Welsh
or British games, I shall transcribe: at the same time strongly
recommending the work to such as wish to take a minute survey of this
county.—His route is reversed, “but as most strangers will, no doubt,
proceed from Conway to Bangor, it shall be my endeavour to act as their
guide, and mention some particulars which are worth their attention along
this road. For the first two miles he will proceed up hill, until he
comes to an opening between two rocks, near a place called Sychnant, when
all of a sudden a most magnificent scene presents itself. From hence he
commands a full view of Beaumaris Bay, generally covered with a number of
small vessels; the Puffin, or Priestholm island, the village of Llangoed,
the town of Beaumaris, Baron-hill, and the Friars; the former, the
beautiful seat of the Lord Viscount Bulkeley, and the latter, that of his
brother, Sir Robert Williams, Bart. M.P. all on the Anglesea shore. On
the Caernarvonshire side, Bangor and Penrhyn Castle; and last, though not
least, the huge Penmaen-mawr, protruding its rocky front into the sea,
forming a natural barrier in such manner (to all appearance) as to cut
off every communication this way, and render any farther progress
impracticable. The art of man has, however, at length conquered these
difficulties, and surmounted every obstacle, for about the year 1772, an
excellent road was formed along the edge of this once tremendous and
dangerous precipice, under the direction of the ingenious Mr. Sylvester,
parliament having generously voted a grant for this purpose. Prior to
this event several fatal accidents had happened here; and one or two
nearly miraculous escapes are recorded in Pennant’s tour through North
Wales. At that time no carriage passed this way, and consequently all
the travelling was either on foot or on horseback. Dean Swift was
generally a pedestrian, and in one of his rambles he left these lines,
written on a pane of glass, at the old inn (now a farm-house) near this
mountain:—
‘Before you venture here to pass,
Take a good refreshing glass;
And when you are over take another,
Your fainting spirits to recover.’
“Before the traveller descends from the top of Sychnant, just mentioned,
to the little vale Dwygyfylchi, he should deviate a little to the left,
in order to examine some antiquities, near a place called Gwddw Glâs, in
that parish. Here are several circles of stones, of various diameters,
and large Carneddau, viz. barrows, or tumuli; supposed to have been
memorials of those heroes who fell in the field of battle, as cistfaens,
or stone coffins, are frequently discovered in some of these circular
heaps or collection of stones. The principal circle now consists of ten
upright stones, at unequal distances: the largest is eight feet three
inches high; on the ground is another, eleven feet two inches; the
diameter of this circle is eighty feet.
“Near this are four other smaller circles; in the centre of one is a flat
stone, the remains of a cromlech, from which it may be conjectured that
it was a Druidical or bardic circle. About a quarter of a mile from
these is a large circle, composed of small stones, and near it another of
large stones; and not far from these another circle, composed of smaller
stones.
“Near the last is a huge upright stone, called Maen y Campiau, or the
stone of games; and nearly contiguous is a carnedd, and a small circle of
twelve stones; adjoining to these are also a great number of what are now
called in this country Cyttiau Gwyddelod (woodmen or Irishmen’s huts),
being the foundations of small buildings, made of round stones; and the
vestige of a road is still visible in a direction from hence towards the
Conway. Some of these last might probably have been the summer
habitations or encampment of a small detachment of the Roman legion,
stationed at Caer Rhun, or Conovium, for the purpose of protecting their
cattle.
“Having mentioned Maen y Campiau, it may not perhaps be considered a
digression to enumerate the twenty-four Welsh or British games, of which
there were ten _Gurolgampau_, or manly games; viz. 1. to lift up great
weights; 2. running; 3. leaping; 4. swimming; 5. wrestling; 6. riding.
These six were styled Tadogion, viz. pertaining to fathers, or grown up
persons, and required only bodily strength and activity; this last,
Marchogaeth, is supposed to have included charioteering, or the skilful
driving and management of different kinds of carriages. The other four
were, 1. archery; 2. playing with the sword and buckler; 3. playing with
the Cledda deuddwrn, or two-handed sword; 4. Chwarau ffoun ddwybig, or
playing with the two-end staff or spear. Next to these were the ten
_Mabolgampau_, or those more peculiarly adapted to young men; viz. 1.
coursing; 2. fishing; 3. fowling; the remaining seven were of the
domestic kind; 1. Barddoniaeth, or poetical composition; 2. Chwareu’r
Delyn, or playing upon the harp; 3. reading Welsh; 4. singing with the
harp; 5. singing between three or four, most probably in alternate
stanzas, or Pennillion; 6. drawing or painting, particularly coats of
arms; 7. heraldry. After these were four _Gogampiau_, or minor games;
viz. 1. Chwarau Gwydd-bwyll, a game similar to that of draughts; 2.
Chwarau Tawl-Bwrdd, probably back-gammon, as this word is supposed to be
derived from the Welsh language; viz. Back, little, and Cammawn, or
Gammon, Battle; and Tawl-Burdd means the toss on the table; 3. Chwarau
Ffristeal, or the game of the dice-box; in what manner it was played is
not known at present; 4. Cyweiraw Telyn, or the tuning of the harp.
“After visiting these circles, the traveller may either proceed to the
top of Pen-maen-mawr, or descend to the high road, near Dygyfylchi
Church, not far from which, just at the foot of Pen-maen-bach, is
Pendyffryn, the seat of T. Smith, Esq. In the clefts of the rocks, above
the turnpike-gate, near Pen-maen-mawr, grows the Cratægus Aria, or white
beam-tree. Mr. Pennant observes, the Swiss procure a good kind of ardent
spirit from the berries. The summit of this mountain seems to have been
fortified by two or three walls, one within the other; and there are
still visible the remains of a great number of huts, or small buildings,
most probably at one time the habitations of soldiers; it was, no doubt,
a strong military post, and is supposed to have been made use of by the
Britons and Romans. The Roman road from Segontium to Conovium must have
passed near it, probably on the south side; and this high mountain, so
conspicuous and so easily distinguished at a distance, formed a kind of
link, no doubt, in the military chain of communication between this
county and Denbighshire, as it is very visible from Dinorwick (now called
Pen Dinas), a Roman encampment in the parish of Llandeiniolen, near
Caernarvon on the west, and from many fortified eminences in the other
county, on the east. The usual signals in ancient times were fires by
night, and a particular kind of flag by day. Having examined the immense
ruins of Braich y Dinas, we now proceed along the high road, through the
parish of Llanfairfechan; and leaving that small church on an eminence, a
little to the left of the road, and on the right, Brynn y Neuadd, an old
neglected family seat, at one time the property of Humphrey Roberts, Esq.
and afterwards conveyed to the Wynnes of Plas Newydd, near Denbigh, by
the marriage of his daughter to a son of that family: we soon pass
Gorddinog,” &c.—_Williams_.
Pursuing a good turnpike-road from Mrs. Crawley’s, we presently came in
sight of the towers of
CONWAY CASTLE,
standing on a rock, so picturesquely alluded to in the Bard of Gray.
“On a rock, whose haughty brow
Frown’d o’er old Conway’s foaming flood,
Robed in a sable garb of woe,
With haggard eyes the poet stood.”
[Picture: Conwy Bridge & Castle]
The castle, built by Edward I., is a magnificent fortress, in the form of
a parallelogram.
An air of proud sublimity, united with singular wildness, characterises
the place. The evening was far advanced, and part of the ruins were
shining with the purple glow of the setting sun, whose remaining features
stood in darkened majesty, when we entered this monument of desolation.
Passing over a plank, originally the site of the drawbridge, we came into
the outward court, strongly defended with battlements; from thence we
examined the grand entrance of the castle, with its several projecting
abutments, similar in style to those of Caernarvon. On the south side of
the court is the grand hall, measuring an hundred and thirty feet by
thirty-two, with eight light Gothic arches, five of which are still in
good condition. At one end is the chapel, with a large window, a
beautiful specimen of Gothic architecture. It was founded on the solid
rock, by Edward I., in the year 1284; the walls are from eleven to
fifteen feet thick: all the towers are defended by small round turrets,
projecting two or three feet over, with a regular communication round the
whole castle by galleries, on the same plan as at Caernarvon. The steps
are decayed and broken, and the looseness of the stones rendered a
footing very insecure; but, impelled by an irresistible curiosity, we
ascended the most perfect tower, and an extensive prospect presented
itself to our view. The foundation of one of the principal towers,
looking towards a small river, which here joins the Conway, has lately
given way, and torn down with it part of the building; the remainder now
hangs in an extraordinary manner. The whole town is enclosed with strong
walls, and defended by a number of towers, which communicate with the
castle by a gallery; there are likewise several gateways at certain
distances.
The ancient church next attracted our attention, but did not detain us
long, as the monuments for the Wynnes are the only things worthy of
inspection, except the following inscription, which is engraved on a flat
stone, in the nave of the church: “Here lyeth the body of Nicholas
Hookes, of Conway, Gent. who was the 41st child of his father, William
Hookes, Esq. by Alice, his wife, and father of 27 children; who died the
20th day of March, 1637.” Few districts in the world can, perhaps,
produce a record similar to the preceding.
From thence we surveyed the remains of the college, which in the reign of
King Edward I. was intended for the instruction of youth. It is now in
complete ruins: the workmanship curious, with several sculptured arms.
In this town is an ancient house, built in the form of a quadrangle, by
the Wynnes, in the time of Queen Elizabeth, now inhabited by poor
families. The house is adorned after the fantastical fashion of the
times in which it was erected; the roof is singularly carved, and the
front decorated with the arms of England, with several curious crests,
birds, and beasts: it bears the date of the year 1585. The arms of
Elizabeth are carved over the door, fronting the street.
The river Conway has been celebrated from the earliest period of British
history for its pearl fishery. Pliny asserts that Julius Cæsar dedicated
to Venus Genetrix, in her temple at Rome, a breast-plate, set with
British pearls; and other authorities go so far as to assign the desire
to get possession of these jewels, as one of the reasons of his invading
the British isles. The shell in which they are found is called the pearl
muscle, and is the same which by Linnæus is termed Mya Margaritifera.
The fish, which generate these concretions, are considered in a sickly
state; and it is said that on their being squeezed, they can and will
eject them, which they occasionally do spontaneously on the sands. I am
given to understand that a very considerable trade is carried on by an
individual, very snugly, at this very day, in pearls collected from the
Conway and adjacent coast. Some years ago Sir Robert Vaughan appeared at
court with a button and loop in his hat, set with pearls from the Conway;
and Mr. Edward Llwyd says, that the pearls found here are as large and as
well coloured as any in Great Britain.
“Immediately at the foot of the castle,” says a recent traveller, {243}
“a suspension bridge is thrown over the previously dangerous ferry, in
the erection of which great taste has been exhibited. Castellated towers
support the chains, and where the road enters the town a toll-house, in
the shape of a dilapidated tower, has been erected, which perfectly
harmonizes with the view around it, and taken altogether, the bridge
seems to be the draw-bridge of the castle, and does not detract from the
antique grandeur of the scene. Mr. Telford is the architect of this, as
well as of the Menai Bridge; and though it possesses nothing of the
immense proportions, it is equally elegant and well adapted to its
situation.”
Edward the First made this a free borough. It is now governed by one
alderman, a recorder, coroner, water-bailiff, and two serjeants-at-mace,
chosen annually, and is a contributory borough with Caernarvon, Pwllheli,
Nevin, and Criccaeth, in returning a member to parliament. Its market is
on Friday.
The usual route, and the one which we intended to pursue, laying by St.
Asaph and Chester, we determined first to explore some of the beauties of
the vale of Conway; and with this object in view, took the road leading
to Llanwrst: it possesses the charming varieties of wood, water, and a
richly cultivated country, backed by mountain scenery. We soon reached
Caer Rhun, the site of the ancient Conovium of the Romans, where the
tenth legion were stationed. The late Rev. Hugh Davies Griffith, vicar
of the parish, and a gentleman well known for his antiquarian researches,
traced out here the remains of a Roman pottery: many utensils of various
sorts had previously been found, mostly imperfect, some well designed and
very curious. Amongst other things found here, was a small brazen
circular shield, of curious workmanship, embossed, a little more than a
foot in diameter, and with a projecting pike of wrought iron, of about
four inches and a half, placed in the centre; it had circles of brass
studs, and appeared to have been lined with leather and stuffed with
hair. Numerous Roman coins were likewise found, and near this is a hill,
called Myndd Caer Leon, or the _Hill of the Legion_. Mr. Williams says,
“This legion was denominated Antoniana Augusta. The XXth, stationed at
Chester (Caer Lleon Gawr, or Caer Lleion ar Ddyfrdwy), was distinguished
by the name of Vicessima Victrix: and the Second Legion, stationed at
Caer Leon, in Monmouthshire, or Caer Lleon ar Wysc, was known by the
title of Augusta Britannica. There was, no doubt, a Roman road from
hence to Segontium, on the west, and to Varium or Bodvarri and Caerwys on
the east, and another probably through Dolyddelen, to Sarn Helen and
Tommen y Mur, in Merionethshire; Pen y street, Dolgelly, Castell y Beri,
near Tal y Llynn, to Penal, near Machynlleth, where there was a Roman
encampment, and where very considerable remains were discovered.”
The next object worthy of attention is Rhaiadr Mawr, or the Great
Waterfall, about seven miles from Conway; Mr. Bingley’s account of which
is so correct and spirited, that I shall give it verbatim:—
“I ascended along a winding path, which, after about a quarter of an
hour’s walk, conducted me to the bed of the river, near the station
from whence it was to be seen to the greatest advantage. The water,
from the late dry weather, was very inconsiderable; still, however,
the scene was highly picturesque. From the upper part two streams
descended at some distance from each other. The range of rock, down
which the water was thrown, was very wide and extremely rude, being
formed in horizontal ledges, into deep clefts and enormous chasms.
On the various lodgments of the rocks were numerous pendant shrubs.
The dark shades of the clefts, and the irregular brilliancy of the
prominent features of the scene, from the reflected rays of the sun,
contrasted again with the foaming of the water, were truly grand.
The colours of the rock, which were every where also very dark, were
rich and highly varied. The streams united a little above the middle
of the fall: they rushed from thence in foam over the rocks, and,
from the deep shelvings, in many places the water was entirely hidden
from me below. In addition to this, nearly every different stratum
of rock threw it into a fresh direction. In the whole scene there
was the utmost irregularity. On the right of the cataract the
enclosing rocks were nearly perpendicular, very lofty, and crowned
with pendant foliage. Those on the left were very high and towering,
adorned on the lodgments with grass and ferns. I should have made a
drawing of this cataract, had it been possible to have expressed it
with any justice on an octavo plate; this, however, was altogether
impossible. The above description is expressed in terms infinitely
too feeble to give any correct idea of the scene. This waterfall
appeared to me by much the most grand and picturesque of any that I
have seen in North Wales.
“In descending to the road, I had an extensive view along the whole
vale of Conway. It appeared from this eminence to be much varied,
and on the whole very beautiful.”
Besides this, many other waterfalls and cascades, along this charming
river, will amply repay this digression, and entice the tourist forward
to its junction with the Lledr and Machno. Near Llanwrst, Gwydir-house
and woods, and at that place the church, and the famous bridge built by
Inigo Jones, will engage his attention. Beyond the vale is beautiful and
romantic, far exceeding my powers of description; all that wood, water,
and the most rugged rocks and picturesque mountain scenery can do to
delight the lovers of nature, heightened by the relief of a highly
cultivated country, interspersed with gentlemen’s seats, frequently
breaking on the view, are here amply afforded them. Proceeding up the
vale, and through Gwydir woods, you reach Bettws y Coed; thence to the
new iron Waterloo Bridge over the Conway, on the great Irish road, visit
the falls of the Conway and Machno, return to Bettws, proceed up the
Lligwy to view the Rhaidar y Wennol, or Cataract of the Swallow, which,
when it possesses its customary body of water, is truly tremendous. In
going from hence to the excellent inn at Capel Curig, by making a circuit
of about four or five miles to the southward, you may visit Dolwyddelan
Castle, the residence of Meredith ap Jevan, before mentioned in the
account of Llyn. From Capel Curig, proceeding towards Bangor, till the
road nearly reaches the river Ogwen, you may with labour and difficulty
trace the old Roman road, from Segontium to Conovium, or, without any
risk of satiety, retread your steps by Llanwrst to Conway.
The trade of Conway consists in the exportation of slate and copper from
the Llandidno mines, from whence the finest specimens of Malachite copper
is brought. The town and castle of Conway are seen to great advantage in
crossing the river, which is here about half a mile over, and at high
water washes the walls of that massy ruin: in the middle of the channel
is a small rocky island. We observed from this situation the two castles
called Bodscallan and Dyganwy; the small remains of the latter stand on a
high rock above the river. The former is a beautiful seat of the
Mostyns.
Crossing the ferry we determined on exploring the Criddin, a Commot, or
Hundred of Caernarvonshire, at the extremity of which is that noted
landmark, the Great Orme’s Head. This commot is supposed to contain some
of the best arable and meadow land in this part of the principality; the
shores and cliffs likewise afford excellent limestone, and pebbles for
paving; both of which are shipped in large quantities for Liverpool and
other markets. Dyganwy, or Dinas Gonwy, _The Fort of the Conway_, was
once the residence of Maelgwyn Gwynedd, Prince of North Wales, who here
held his court. The following anecdote of which, as connected with
Taliesin, the British Bard, I shall give the heads of from Mr. Bingley:
“Gwyddno Garanhir, brother of Maelgwyn, who likewise resided in the
neighbourhood, had near his residence a weir, called Gored Wyddno,
_Gwyddno’s Weir_, which is even yet known by the same name, and
belongs to Sir Thomas Mostyn, as owner of the house of Bodscallon.
Elphin, the son of Gwyddno, was an extravagant youth; and at one time
he had so greatly exhausted his finances, that he was compelled, as a
temporary relief, to ask his father the benefit of the weir for a
single night. The request was complied with, but not a single fish
was caught. {248} A leathern basket was however taken up, which, on
examination, was found to contain a child. This was an unfortunate
circumstance to one so much in want of a successful tide. Elphin
had, however, the humanity to direct that the child should be taken
care of, and that no expense should be spared in his education. The
youth, who was named Taliesin, was introduced by Elphin at his
father’s court; and his first step towards fame was in reciting there
a poem containing the history of his life, called Hanes Taliesin.
Maelgwyn Gwynedd was greatly surprised at his talent, and himself
became afterwards his patron. Some time after this a dispute took
place at Diganwy, betwixt Elphin and his father, of so serious a
nature, as to cause the former to be thrown into prison. His
attentions to Taliesin now proved of the utmost importance to him.
The bard addressed to the prince a poem on his patron, which excited
his commiseration, and caused him to issue an immediate order for
Elphin’s release. Taliesin continued to receive, throughout the
whole of his life, the attentions, the admirations, and the applause
which his talents justly merited; and after his death he was honoured
with the appellation of _The Prince of the British Bards_.”
Gloddaith woods particularly, and most part of this small district,
afford considerable amusement to the botanist; as will the libraries of
Sir Thomas Mostyn, Bart. at Gloddaith and Bodysgallen, to the antiquarian
and the historian. The former of these seats was built in the reign of
Queen Elizabeth; since which period both mansion and furniture have
experienced but trifling alterations.
The tremendous precipice on the west side of the Ormshead is worthy of a
visit. The sea view is very extensive, and generally enlivened by the
passing of Liverpool shipping; you likewise command a view of the Isle of
Man, and occasionally views of the Irish, Lancashire, and the distant
haze of the Scottish coast. The sea birds frequent these cliffs and
shores in great abundance, more particularly gulls, razor-bills,
guillemots, corvorants, herons, and the peregrine falcon; the latter of
which, in the days of falconry, was held in such high estimation, that
the celebrated Lord Burleigh sent a letter of thanks for a present of a
cast of hawks from this place to an ancestor of Sir Thomas Mostyn’s.
Unprotected by any shelter, on the summit of the high promontory, stands
the small church of Llandudno, but little famous for any thing but its
singular situation, and its service as a beacon. Proceeding along the
mail-road, with the sea on our left, and low rocks on our right, nothing
particular attracted our attention, till in descending a hill about two
miles from the neat bathing-town of
ABERGELE,
we observed, on our right, two immense caverns, about half way up the
mountain; they are called Cavern-arogo, and run four or five hundred
yards into the ground; but their real extent has never been ascertained
with accuracy. From these mountains vast quantities of lime are shipped
for Liverpool and many parts of England.
Abergele, situate on the edge of Rhuddlan Marsh, is a small neat town of
one street, resorted to in the summer season for bathing. The sands
afford excellent walking; in the evening we lingered on the beach for a
considerable time, enjoying the calm but cheerful beauty of nature, and
inhaling the pure sea-breeze—for
. . . “The wind was hush’d;
And to the beach each slowly-lifted wave,
Creeping with silver-curl, just kiss’d the shore,
And slept in silence.”
MASON’S GARDEN.
With pleasure mixed with reverential awe, we trod Rhuddlan Marsh, so
celebrated in the annals of history. Here the ill-fated Richard II. was
betrayed into the hands of Bolingbroke, and taken prisoner to Flint: here
Offa, King of Mercia, met his untimely death: here the Welsh, under the
command of Caradoc, in the year 795, were defeated in a conflict with the
Saxons, and their leader slain in the action. This memorable and tragic
event is handed down to posterity by an ancient celebrated and affecting
ballad, called Morva Rhuddlan, or the Marsh of Rhuddlan, composed by the
bards on the death of Prince Caradoc.
The ground we trod, connected with so many events, revived in our minds
the memory of past ages; a series of historical events came to our
recollection; events that are now so distant, as almost to be obliterated
from the page of history. Passing over a bridge of two arches, thrown
over the river Clwyd, we entered
RHUDDLAN,