that place, the road is esteemed amongst the best in Wales; the views
along it are likewise such as to keep the attention alive, nature and art
combining to give effect: in one place the rapid Taff is seen breaking
its way through the woody cliffs, to the lowest level of the vale, and in
the next instant the boats are seen navigating the canal, which winds its
course most strangely round the mountain’s brow, three hundred feet above
the current of the Taff.
Long before you reach Merthyr, the blackened atmosphere points out the
site; but when immediately upon it, you are obliged to inquire where it
is, and the way to it: from Cardiff you approach it by the Plymouth
works, belonging to Mr. Hill: these lie wide and scattered, and are still
extending, the road passing through them for a considerable distance;
they are altogether worked by water, forming various fine falls from the
same source, viz. the Taff.
After passing these, you appear entering on an extended suburb to a large
town; but the town itself is nowhere visible: it is without form or
order; in short, to get to your inn you can scarcely find your way along
the main road; for to dignify it with the name of street, is more than it
merits; yet here is collected together a larger and more bustling
population than any other town in the principality can boast; its markets
are large, well attended, and more than reasonable; its shopkeepers are
numerous and thriving; and all that seems to be required to make this
town one of the most respectable in the principality is a little
attention to order and cleanliness: the lower classes, it is true, are
miserably poor; still, even about the iron-works, there are so many
better provided for, and so much money is monthly put into circulation,
that but little trouble would be wanted to make it assume the appearance,
as well as enjoy the reality, of being a populous busy town of trade.
The largest works at Merthyr are the Cyfartha, belonging to Mr. Crawshay:
these now consist of six blast furnaces, and two near the town, with
fineries, air and puddling furnaces, mill forges, &c. in proportion. The
blast is furnished by a steam engine of eighty-horse power and an immense
overshot water-wheel, fifty feet in diameter, by seven feet in width:
this wheel rests on gudgeons, which weigh one hundred tons: it consumes
about twenty-five tons of water per minute; part of the water is brought
a considerable distance along a trough supported by stone pillars; the
rest is furnished from the Taff.
The gudgeons of all the wheels, and of such parts of the machine where
there is any friction, have water continually running over them, to
prevent their taking fire. It is the particular office of one man to
grease every part of the machine whilst in motion; to accomplish which,
he is frequently obliged to ride on an iron bar, similar to the lever of
a pump when in motion, a considerable way from the ground. The whole of
this machinery is worked by water, not more than a foot deep, which is
conveyed by a long spout to the top of the wheel, where it discharges
itself. The ore, lime-stone, and coals, which they use to promote the
fusion of the ore, are all found on the spot. The ore, previous to its
being thrown into the furnace, is burnt in a common lime-pit; the
goodness of it is afterwards proved, by its adhesion to the tongue: the
coal is all charked, and continually put into the furnace with certain
proportions of ore. From the pigs, the iron is rolled into flat plates
by a cylinder; this is performed with the greatest despatch. The gaunt
figures of the workmen excite both pity and terror, and the sallow
countenances and miserable air of the people prove it is a labour very
prejudicial to their health.
Mr. Crawshay employs upwards of five thousand men in his works only; but
to form an estimate of the numbers employed, and the produce of iron
afforded, I subjoin the following list of the principal works in the
vales from Abergavenny to Neath, each furnace producing, on an average,
from forty-five to seventy tons of iron per week. The two large
furnaces, belonging to Messrs. Crawshay, near to Merthyr, are said to
have furnished, for a short period, upwards of one hundred tons each per
week.
FURNACES.
Clydac, or Llanelly (in the parish of latter)
Freer 2 furnaces
Blenavon, Hill 4
The Varteg 2
Nant eglo, Bayley 4
Beaufort, Kendal 3
Ebro Vale, Harford 2
Sirhowy, Harford 2
Tredegar, S. Homfray and Co. 5
Romney, Mrs. Hall 2
Dowlass, Guest and Co. 8
Penydarran, Forman and Thompson 5
Cyfartha, Crawshays 8
Plymouth, R. I. and A. Hill 5
Aberdare, formerly Thompson and Scales, now Scales 3
and Co.
Abernant, ditto, Tappendens 1
Hirwaen 2
Myers and company, four miles short of Neath, charcoal furnace, &c.
The immense collections of cinder, or refuse from the ore, astonish the
beholder: it appears almost incredible, that the labour of man could
transport such quantities of materials; but when, added to this, you
reflect that nearly the whole has passed through the furnaces, and been
moved two or three times, how much is the wonder increased! In short, to
witness what immense capitals, indefatigable industry, and human
ingenuity can accomplish, in dragging forth the bowels of the earth, the
vales of the Taff from Brecon to Cardiff, and the very numerous vales
running parallel with the Taff, betwixt Abergavenny and Neath, should be
explored, both above ground, and in the mines; the value of the inclined
planes and rail-roads only would be immense.
About three miles to the north-east of Merthyr are the remains of Castle
Morlais, an extensive and singular ruin: it was originally a British
post, afterwards rebuilt by Gilbert, Earl of Gloucester, in the reign of
Edward I., and the source of a quarrel betwixt that nobleman and Humphrey
de Bohun, Earl of Hereford, which brought down the anger of the monarch
on both their heads to such extent, as to subject them to fine and
imprisonment: it was so completely destroyed by the Parliamentary army in
the seventeenth century, that its form and extent are difficult to trace;
a small keep, or look-out, on the most elevated part of its site, still,
however, remains: its upper story is much dilapidated; and the walls as
well as roof nearly destroyed, except the door-way and window, which are
of freestone: from the top of one of these the view of the Black
Mountains, &c. is most extensive: the lower apartment (part of the
vaulted roof of which has at length yielded to time, and the injuries of
the animals who have resorted to the upper apartment for shelter) has
once been curious; the arches, twelve in number, which supported its roof
sprang from a pillar in the centre; the rib of the arch is freestone, and
shows good masonry; the wall is likewise rubbed stone, part of which has
been defaced, apparently to see if it communicated with any other part of
the castle, or contained any thing worthy the searching for. The
pleasantest way for an active person to ascend to this ruin, is at the
bridge above the Cyfartha works, to take the right bank, ascending the
little Taff: for some distance you pass along the quarries, and at length
reach a path cut through the woods, along the banks of this romantic
stream: the termination of the path obliges you to incline to the right,
and passing two fields, you begin to ascend the hill between a stone wall
and extensive lime-stone quarries, belonging to the Pendarren works. The
ascent is steep; but if fine, you are amply repaid, on reaching the
summit, by the extensive views you command. Dowlass works, which, as
well as Cyfartha, have eight furnaces, are seen from here to great
advantage. The descent to Merthyr, along the rail-road from the
lime-stone quarries you passed in ascending, is easy and pleasant,
running alongside the beautiful grounds of Mr. Forman, formerly belonging
to Mr. S. Homfray, and which a former tourist describes as containing all
of elegance or comfort that Merthyr can boast of. From hence we
travelled the road to Pont Neath Vechan, the first part of which is
hilly, rough, and through a barren country; but the latter half is rich
in scenery, sublime and awful, from pendent rocks and gushing cataracts,
and worthy the time and observation of the admirer of nature’s beauties.
PONT NEATH VECHAN.
About a mile and a half from Vechan we unexpectedly descended by an
excellent road through a wood into a rich romantic valley, watered by
Neath river. In this retired situation we found the Angel inn, of Pont
Neath Vechan. Description can scarcely suggest the full grandeur and
magnificence of this valley: woods, rocks, and waterfalls, all unite to
render it beautiful. Our Cicerone first conducted us to the fall of
Scotenogam, on the river Purthen, about a mile and a half from the house.
This fall we saw to great advantage: the river, having gathered in its
course the accumulation of many torrents after the rain, precipitated
itself into one majestic expanse of water, near seventy feet high; whilst
the dark lowering rocks, on each side, contrasted finely with the varied
vegetation around us. The descent is by no means easy; but the grandeur
of the scene amply compensated for all difficulties. Our Cicerone next
conducted us to a very inferior one, called the Lady’s Cascade, on the
river Neath; but of this we caught a very indifferent prospect, the
ascent of the mountain being inaccessible, and the water too high to
admit of our obtaining a due inspection of it. We then returned to our
inn, and set out on a different road, in quest of nature’s
landscapes.—Having walked about three miles, we heard the angry roar of
small cascades; these we considered preludes to scenes of nature’s
grandest cast, where the rushing waterfall swells into a torrent; and
accordingly we soon found ourselves near the fall of Lower Culhepste.
The character of this cataract differs very much from that of Scotenogam;
being broken in its descent from projecting rocks, of an immense size.
About a quarter of a mile from hence we descended a rugged and steep
rock, to examine the fall of Upper Culhepste, about fifty feet high. The
singularity of this fall invites the curiosity of the traveller more than
any other in Wales: the whole river precipitates itself with such
violence, as to leave a space between the rock and the fall sufficiently
wide for a horse-path. Though in less than two minutes we were
completely wet by the spray, yet the effect was awful and sublime; and it
was necessary to remember the fixed foundation of the rocks above our
heads, to soften the awe they inspired. “The effect of sunshine on the
cascade,” says Mr. Malkin, “when behind it on a fine day, is both grand
and beautiful. The particles of water glittering with a silvery
brightness, as they fall; the uncommon brilliancy of every thing without,
seen through such a medium, contrasted with the dark green of the moss,
everlastingly wet with spray; the corroded dinginess of the rock; the
damp and vaporous gloom of the atmosphere within; altogether form a
singularly mingled scene of awe and gaiety.”
Near this fall is Porthogo Cavern, through which the river Vendre runs.
The water was too high to admit our entrance; our conductor, however,
informed us he had penetrated about half a mile, but found the river wind
so many ways, he judged it safer to return, lest he should share the fate
of a poor man, who lost himself in this cavern for the space of three
days. On our return a very intelligent gentleman, staying in the
neighbourhood, strenuously recommended us to descend a steep mountain, on
our left, to survey a curious quadrangular strata of marble in the rock
below. With some difficulty we effected our purpose, having waded twice
through the river. This strata in Welsh is called _bwr maen_, which
signifies a stone bow: it is situated close to the river Dynnas, which,
forcing its way through some broken fragments of the rock, forms a
cascade a little above. The price offered for this grey marble, in
London, is fifteen shillings a foot square.
About five miles from Vechan, is the seat of Mrs. Holbrow, on the right.
We were prevented visiting the waterfalls of Melincourt and Aperdulas,
the river, owing to the late floods, being too deep to ford. Our route
still continued through the valley we had so much admired the evening
before. As we drew near
NEATH,
the tower of Knole Castle had a pleasing effect from a distance: it was
built by Sir Herbert Mackworth, and is at present in the possession of H.
I. Grant, Esq. The windows from the banqueting-room command a circle of
many miles in diameter, composed of Neath valley and river, with the
smoky town of Neath—the Mumbles’ Point—Swansea, and the Channel. The
artificial cascade is well contrived; but, after the foaming torrents of
Scotenogam and Culhepste, appears very tame.
The site of the refectory, the chapel, the hall, and several other rooms,
in the ruins of Neath Abbey, may still be traced. It stands on the east
of the river, and was formerly, by Leland’s account, the “fairest abbey
of all Wales;” but in his Collectanea {50} he seems to give Margam the
preference of all the Cistercian houses in these parts. It was founded
for white monks, by Richard de Granville. About the time of its
dissolution it contained only eight monks, and was valued at 132_l._
7_s._ 7_d._ per annum. In this abbey the unfortunate King Edward II.
secreted himself in the year 1326, when prevented, by contrary winds,
from his intended escape to Ireland; he was soon, however, discovered,
and confined in the castle of Kenilworth, under the custody of the Earl
of Leicester. Near the ruins are the copper-works: the ore is chiefly
imported from Cornwall and Wicklow in Ireland; being calcined, and
thereby losing its sulphur, it is refined by the simple process of
frequent melting, and taking off the dross, which forms a scum: lastly,
being moulded into small plates, or pigs, it is shipped for the market.
The method of reducing the metal, when melted, into small particles, is
by pouring it into water; and when thus reduced, it is called
copper-shot. Brass is a compound of copper thus reduced, and lapis
calaminaris pulverized in crucibles, and moulded or cast into plates.
Lapis calaminaris is dug in great quantities near Holywell, in
Flintshire.
Neath, although surrounded by beautiful scenery, is itself unpleasantly
situated: it is low, the streets narrow, the buildings old, and there is
in the first view of it an air of desertion and poverty, that sets the
traveller against it; yet it possesses some trade as a sea-port, in
coals, iron, and copper, for which it is now considerably indebted to its
canal, which communicates betwixt Aberdare and Britton Ferry. The ruins
of the castle still exist, but possess no particular merit, derived
either from strength, beauty, or antiquity. A navigable canal has been
made to communicate with all the interior parts of the country to Pont
Nedd Vechan. The market days at Neath are Wednesdays and Saturdays. It
is one hundred and ninety-six miles one furlong from London. Near Neath
is Cringell, the residence of William Davis, Esq. author of a History of
this County; and about a mile up the vale of Neath is Cadoxton Lodge,
near which is a cascade. The road from hence to Swansea is very good,
and not incommoded by the smoke of the copper-works, as it was formerly;
but for horse or foot passengers, though more circuitous, there is a
pleasant way by
BRITTON FERRY.
This village is much resorted to, on account of its beautiful situation;
and many a white-washed cottage straggles through the hamlet. The
plantations of the Earl of Jersey, late Lord Vernon’s, are well disposed,
and edge the water’s brink: the river is constantly filled with vessels,
whose gay streamers glittering to the sun-beam, present to the eye a
constant moving object. The richness and beauty of this spot is scarcely
to be equalled in all the principality: and the climate is so mild, that
myrtles, magnolias, fuschias, and other tender exotics, grow luxuriantly
in the open air. The church-yard is very beautiful, and beneath the
shade of its trees a friend of the Editor of the present Edition wrote
the following lines:
When death has stolen our dearest friends away,
Some tears to shed is graceful:—but to mourn
Loudly and deeply, that their pains are o’er,
Is but to prove, we lov’d ourselves far more
Than e’er we cherish’d, lov’d, or valued them.
To bear misfortune with an equal mind;
To mount the aspiring pinnacle of fame,
With a warm heart, and temperate resolve;
To curb the rage that prompts to wild revenge;
To pay the malice of an envious throng
With pity and forgiveness; and to weep,
With tears of joy, that our most “useful” friend
Has paid the debt Eternity demands,
Alike bespeak nobility of mind,
And the proud hope, that heaven’s decrees are just.
Stranger! of peasant or of royal line;
Treasure these thoughts, and Autumn’s yellow leaf
Shall never fill thine aged eyes with tears!
Having crossed the Ferry, we proceeded on the sands to
SWANSEA.
The whole of this walk commanded a boundless view of the ocean to the
west, whilst to the south the faint hues of the Somersetshire coast
skirted the horizon.
Swansea, or Abertawe, is a well-built sea-port town, on the river Tawe,
much resorted to during the summer months. The machines for bathing are
kept about half a mile from the town. The castle is supposed to have
been erected by Henry, Earl of Warwick, in the reign of King Henry I.;
and is at present the property of the Duke of Beaufort; the small arches
round the top of it are exactly similar to the buildings of Lantphey
castle, and King John’s Hall, St. David’s, Pembrokeshire. This castle is
now turned into a gaol and workhouse. The market-place is said to be
covered with the lead of St. David’s cathedral, given by Cromwell to a
gentleman of Swansea.
The clay used for the pottery, long carried on in this place, is brought
from Corfe, in Dorsetshire: having been mixed with finely-ground flint,
and dissolved in water, it is passed through sieves, till it has lost all
its coarser particles; then exposed to heat, which evaporates the water,
and leaves the clay of a consistency sufficient for working. The vessel
is first rudely formed by the hand, the clay being stuck to a circular
board, which has an horizontal rotation. The other operation consists in
the more perfect forming of the work by various processes, and the
colouring, glazing, painting, and stamping; drying and baking kilns
complete the work.
The harbour of Swansea, which is large, has had great sums expended upon
it, without much judgment having been evinced in the expenditure: the
piers, which are extensive, are already frequently wanting considerable
repairs, and will always be a source of emolument to those who know how
to make the most of a good job. Swansea Bay is beautiful, and the sail
from Swansea to Ilfracombe one of the pleasantest and cheapest I ever
enjoyed. The entrance into the latter harbour is grand and terrific; the
stupendous rocks by which it is sheltered and enclosed impressing the
mind, on a temperate day, with that pleasing awe, which in a more
tempestuous time, “when the raging billows roar,” would amount to horror
and dismay. Ilfracombe affords comfortable accommodation to remain at;
but to remove inland, you have to send to Barnstaple for a conveyance: it
is a most romantic situation. Swansea is seen to great advantage from
the bay, its best front being towards the Channel; it is a mixture of
good and bad, of old streets and new, wide and narrow, pride and poverty,
much show and little wealth. The market, which is on a Saturday, is
greatly improved of late years, and not only affords comforts, but
luxuries; yet Swansea, except to those who are acquainted with it, is a
more expensive place to reside at for a short time than an English
watering place: still those lodgings, which are so highly rated during
the season, are comfortable retreats to half-pay officers during the
winter months; and from the mildness of the climate, and many families
taking up their residence at it during that period, Swansea, were it not
for the faults and greediness or mismanagement of some of its
inhabitants, would rise to wealth and respectability. The playhouse is
respectable, and the performers generally good, but badly repaid for
their exertions. The post-office here is very regular, and conveyances
to Bristol, Gloucester, or London, although expensive, regular and safe.
A walk may be comfortably enjoyed in five minutes after a shower, or
between showers, without wet feet; and both drives and rides in the
vicinity are numerous and beautiful. The libraries are good, well
supplied, and civil, and the shops accommodating, and plentifully
stocked: still I should think the traveller would take more money at
Merthyr than Swansea, and four times as much at that little high-spirited
place, Caermarthen, as at either; such at least must be the case, if any
criterion is to be formed from the quantum of circulating medium
required, as gained from the requisitions for the exchange of the new for
the old coinage, Caermarthen having wanted upwards of 20,000_l._ and
Swansea not having required 4,000_l._ The mail road to Caermarthen is by
Pontarddylais, nine miles; Llanon, four miles; Caermarthen, thirteen.
Swansea is about two hundred and five miles from London. Its population
consists of 10,255 inhabitants. It has some trade to the Baltic; and
more than 100,000 chaldrons of coals are annually exported.
OYSTERMOUTH CASTLE,
about five miles from Swansea, is finely situated on an eminence,
commanding a delightful prospect of the surrounding country, and the
Mumbles’ Bay. The ivy-mantled walls of this castle are sufficiently
perfect to distinguish what the apartments were originally designed for.
It formerly belonged to the lords of Gower, but is now in the possession
of the Duke of Beaufort. It is a majestic ruin, standing in a bold
position, commanding a beautiful view of the country, the Bay of Swansea,
and surrounded by broken cliffs. The walls are so little injured by
time, that the design of the apartments may easily be traced. The
general figure is polygonal; the ramparts lofty, but not flanked with
towers, except just at the entrance. It is a good specimen of the Gothic
style; and is ascribed to the Earl of Warwick, in the reign of Henry the
First. Our curiosity being satisfied, we hastened to the
MUMBLES,
celebrated, far and near, for the goodness and abundance of its oysters.
This village stands at the extremity of Swansea Bay, on a vast mass of
splintered rock: from this elevation the wide expanse of the ocean and
Swansea Bay are viewed to great advantage. These rocks are inaccessible
at high water, except in a boat; on the farthest is erected a
light-house, serviceable to the navigation of the British Channel. The
lodging-house above Oystermouth, called Thistle-boon, commands a fine
view of the Peninsula of Gower; the Bay of Swansea on one side, and that
of Caermarthen on the other.
At Pennard we descended some immense sand-banks, which led us into Oxwich
Bay: at the head of the sandbanks are the small remains of an old castle,
{57a} scarcely worthy of observation. The sands in this bay are
extremely fine, and the bold projections of the rock exhibit Nature in
her most awful and impressive attitudes. To the right of Oxwich Bay is
situate, at Penrice, {57b} the seat of Mr. Talbot: the grounds are well
planned, and command extensive views of the sea: the old castle, rising
behind the house, gave the whole a fine effect. It has been converted
into an aviary. Lady Mary Talbot (now Cole), has the most beautiful
flower garden in the whole principality.
Between Penrice and the neat village of
CHERITON,
we observed to our right, on a hill, a large flat cromlech, several tons
weight, resting on about six smaller ones, placed perpendicularly, and
standing about five feet high: this is vulgarly called King Arthur’s
stone. The lifting of this stone in its present place is mentioned in
the Welsh Historical Triads as one of the three arduous undertakings
accomplished in the Island of Britain. On a hill, opposite our inn, we
discovered evident vestiges of a Roman encampment. From this elevation
the eye caught a fine view of Caermarthen Bay, and the bold promontory of
Worm’s Head, to the south-west: this rock is only accessible at low
water.