Where the remote Bermudas ride,
In th' ocean's bosom.
ANDREW MARVELL.
There is a peculiar kind of beauty among these islands, which we might
really believe to be the abode of fairies. They consist of a cluster of
rocks, formed by the zoophyte, or coral worm. The number of the islands
is said to be equal to the days of the year. They are covered with a
short green sward, dark cedar trees, and low white houses, which have a
pretty and pleasing effect; the harbours are numerous, but shallow; and
though there are many channels into them, there is but one for large
ships into the principal anchorage.
Numerous caverns, whose roofs sparkle with the spars and stalactites
formed by the dripping water, are found in every part of the islands.
They contain springs of delicious coolness, to quench the thirst, or to
bathe in. The sailors have a notion that these, islands float, and that
the crust which composes them is so thin as to be broken with little
exertion. One man being confined in the guard-house for having got
drunk and misbehaved, stamped on the ground, and roared to the guard,
"Let me out, or, damn your eyes, I'll knock a hole in your bottom,
scuttle your island, and send you all to hell together." Rocks and
shoals abound in almost every direction, but chiefly on the north and
west sides. They are, however, well-known to the native pilots, and
serve as a safeguard from nightly surprise or invasion.
Varieties of fish are found here, beautiful to the eye and delicious to
the taste: of these, the best is the red grouper. When on a calm, clear
day you glide among these lovely islands, in your boat, you seem to be
sailing over a submarine flower-garden, in which clumps of trees,
shrubs, flowers, and gravel walks, are planted in wild but regular
confusion.
My chief employment was afloat, and according to my usual habit, I found
no amusement unless it was attended with danger; and this propensity
found ample gratification in the whale fishery, the reason for which was
just approaching. The ferocity of the fish in these southern latitudes
appears to be increased, both from the heat of the climate and the care
of their young; for which reason it would seem that the risk in taking
them is greater than in the polar seas.
From what I am able to learn of the natural history of the whale, she
brings forth her young, seldom more than one at a time, in the northern
regions, after which, with the calf at her side, the mother seeks a more
genial climate, to bring it to maturity. They generally reach Bermuda
about the middle of March, where they remain but a few weeks, after
which they visit the West-India Islands, then bear away to the
southward, and go round Cape Horn, returning to the polar seas by the
Aleutian Islands and Behring's Straits, which they reach in the
following summer; when the young whale, having acquired size and
strength in the southern latitudes, is enabled to contend with his
enemies in the north, and here also the dam meets the male again. From
my own experience and the inquiries I have been enabled to make, I am
tolerably certain that this is a correct statement of the migration of
these animals, the females annually making the tour of the two great
American continents, attended by their young.
The maternal solicitude of the whale makes her a dangerous adversary,
and many serious accidents occur in the season for catching whales. On
one occasion I had nearly paid with my life for the gratification of my
curiosity. I went in a whale-boat rowed by coloured men, natives of the
islands, who were very daring and expert in this pursuit. We saw a
whale, with her calf, playing round the coral rocks; the attention which
the dam showed to its young, the care she took to warn it of danger, was
truly affecting. She led it away from the boats, swam round it, and
sometimes she would embrace it with heir fins, and roll over with it in
the waves. We contrived to get the "vantage ground" by going to seaward
of her, and by that means drove her into shoal water among the rocks.
At last we came so near the young one, that the harpooner poised his
weapon, knowing that the calf once struck, the mother was our own, for
she would never desert it. Aware of the danger and impending fate of
its inexperienced offspring, she swam rapidly round it, in decreasing
circles, evincing the utmost uneasiness and anxiety; but the parental
admonitions were unheeded, and it met its fate.
The boat approached the side of the younger fish, and the harpooner
buried his tremendous weapon deep in the ribs. The moment it felt the
wound, the poor animal darted from us, taking out a hundred fathom of
line; but a young fish is soon conquered when once well struck: such was
the case in this instance; it was no sooner checked with the line than
it turned on its back, and, displaying its white belly on the surface of
the water, floated a lifeless corpse. The unhappy parent, with an
instinct always more powerful than reason, never quitted the body.
We hauled in upon the line, and came close up to our quarry just as
another boat had fixed a harpoon in the mother. The tail of the furious
animal descended with irresistible force upon the very centre of our
boat, cutting it in two, and killing two of the men; the survivors took
to swimming for their lives in all directions. The whale went in
pursuit of the third boat, but was checked by the line from the one that
struck her: she towed them at the rate of ten or eleven miles an hour:
and had she had deep water; would have taken the boat down, or obliged
them to cut away from her.
The two boats were so much employed that they could not come to our
assistance for some time, and we were left to our own resources much
longer than I thought agreeable. I was going to swim to the calf whale;
but one of the men advised me not to do so, saying that the sharks would
be as thick about him as the lawyers round Westminster Hall, and that I
should certainly be snapped up if I went near: for my comfort he added,
"These devils seldom touch a man if they can get anything else." This
might be very true; but I must confess I was very glad to see one, of
the boats come to our assistance, while the mother whale, encumbered
with the heavy harpoon and line, and exhausted with the fountain of
black blood which she threw up, drew near to her calf, and died by its
side; evidently, in her last moments, more occupied with the
preservation of her young than of herself.
As soon as she turned on her back, I had reason to thank the "Mudian"
for his good advice; there were at least thirty or forty sharks
assembled round the carcasses, and as we towed them in, they followed.
When we had grounded them in the shallow water close to the beach, the
blubber was cut off; after which, the flesh was given to the black
people, who assembled in crowds, and cut off with their knives large
portions of the meat. The sharks as liberally helped themselves with
their teeth; but it was very remarkable, that though the black men,
often came between them and the whale, they never attacked a man. This
was a singular scene; the blacks with their white eyes and teeth,
hallooing, laughing, screaming, and mixing with numerous sharks--the
most ferocious monsters of the deep--yet preserving a sort of truce
during the presence of a third object: it reminded me, comparing great
things with small, of the partition of Poland.
I found that there was neither honour nor profit for me in this
diversion, so I no more went a whale-fishing, but took my passage to
Halifax in a schooner--one of those vessels built during the war, in
imitation of the Virginia pilot boats; but like most of our imitations,
about as much resembling the original as a cow is like a hare, and
bearing exactly the same proportion in point of velocity. And, as if it
had been determined that these vessels should in every respect disgrace
the British flag the command of them was conferred on officers whose
conduct would not induce captains to allow them to serve under them, and
who were therefore very unwisely sent into small vessels, where they
became their own masters, and were many of them constantly drunk: such
was the state of my commander from the time I sailed until we reached
Halifax. The example of the lieutenant was followed by his mate and
three midshipmen; the crew, which consisted of twenty-five men, were
kept sober by being confined to their allowance, and I had a hopeful
prospect.
Fortunately, drinking was not among my vices. I could get "fresh," as
we call it, when in good company and excited by wit and mirth; but I
never went to the length of being drunk; and, as I advanced in years,
pride and cunning made me still more guarded. I perceived the immense
advantage which sobriety gave me over a drunkard, and I failed not to
profit by it.
Keeping constantly on deck, almost night and day, I attended to the
course of the vessel and the sail she carried, never taking the trouble
to consult the lieutenant, who was generally senseless in his cabin. We
made Sambro Lighthouse (which is at the entrance of Halifax harbour) in
the evening, and one of the midshipmen, who was more than half drunk,
declared himself well acquainted with the place, and his offer to pilot
the vessel in was accepted. As I had never been there before, I could
be of no use; but being extremely doubtful of the skill of our pilot, I
watched his proceedings with some anxiety.
In half an hour we found ourselves on shore on Cornwallis Island, as I
afterwards learned, and the sea made a fair breach over us. This
sobered the lieutenant and his officers; and as the tide fell, we found
ourselves high and dry. The vessel fell over on her side, and I walked
on shore, determined to trust myself no more with such a set of beasts.
Boats came down from the dockyard at daylight, and took me and some
others who had followed my example, together with our luggage, to the
flag-ship. After two days' hard labour, the vessel was got off, and
brought into the harbour. The admiral was informed of the whole
transaction, and one of the captains advised him to try the lieutenant
by a court-martial, or, at least, to turn him out of the vessel, and
send him home. Unfortunately, he would not follow this advice, but sent
him to sea again, with despatches. It was known that all hands were
drunk on quitting the port; and the vessel ran upon a reef of rocks
called the Sisters, where she sank, and every soul perished. Her
mast-heads were seen just above water the next morning.
The frigate I was to join came into harbour soon after I reached
Halifax. This I was sorry for, as I found myself in very good quarters.
I had letters of introduction to the best families. The place is
proverbial for hospitality; and the society of the young ladies, who are
both virtuous and lovely, tended in some degree to reform and polish the
rough and libertine manners which I had contracted in my career. I had
many sweethearts; but they were more like Emily than Eugenia. I was a
great flirt among them, and would willingly have spent more time in
their company; but my fate or fortune was to be accomplished, and I went
on board the frigate, where I presented my introductory letters to the
nobleman who commanded her. I expected to have seen an effeminate young
man, much too refined to learn his business; but I was mistaken. Lord
Edward was a sailor every inch of him, he knew a ship from stem to
stern, understood the characters of seamen, and gained their confidence.
He was, besides, a good mechanic--a carpenter, rope-maker, sail-maker,
and cooper. He could hand, reef, and steer, knot and splice; but he was
no orator--he read little, and spoke less. He was a man of no show. He
was good-tempered, honest, and unsophisticated, with a large proportion
of common sense. He was good-humoured and free with his officers;
though if offended he was violent, but soon calm again; nor could you
ever perceive any assumption of consequence from his title of nobility.
He was pleased with my expertness in practical seamanship; and before we
left the harbour, I became a great favourite. This I took care to
improve, as I liked him both for himself and his good qualities,
independently of the advantages of being on good terms with the captain.
We were not allowed to remain long in this paradise of sailors, being
ordered suddenly to Quebec. I ran round to say adieu to all my dear
Arcadian friends. A tearful eye, a lock of hair, a hearty shake of a
fair hand, were all the spoils with which I was loaded when I quitted
the shore, and I cast many a longing, lingering look behind, as the ship
glided out of the harbour; white handkerchiefs were waved from the
beach, and many a silent prayer for our safe return was put up from
snowy bosoms and from aching hearts. I dispensed my usual quantum of
vows of eternal love and fidelity, before I left them, and my departure
was marked in the calendar of Halifax as a black day, by at least seven
or eight pairs of blue eyes.
We had not been long at sea before we spoke an Irish Guinea-man from
Belfast, loaded with emigrants for the United States: I think about
seventeen families. These were contraband. Our captain had some twenty
thousand acres on the island of St. John's, or Prince Edward's, as it is
now called, a grant to some of his ancestors, which had been bequeathed
to him, and from which he had never received one shilling of rent, for
the very best reason in the world--because there were no tenants to
cultivate the soil. It occurred to our noble captain that this was the
very sort of cargo he wanted, and that these Irish people would make
good clearers of his land, and improve his estate. He made the proposal
to them, and as they saw no chance of getting to the United States, and,
provided they could procure nourishment for their families, it was a
matter of indifference to them where they colonised, the proposal was
accepted, and the captain obtained permission of the admiral to
accompany them to the island to see them housed and settled. Indeed,
nothing could have been more advantageous for all parties; they
increased the scanty population of our own colony, instead of adding to
the number of our enemies. We sailed again from Halifax a few hours
after we had obtained the sanction of the admiral, and, passing through
the beautiful passage between Nova Scotia and the island of Cape Breton,
known by the name of the Gut of Canso, we soon reached Prince Edward's
Island.
We anchored in a small harbour near the estate, on which we found a man
residing with his wife and family; this fellow called himself the
steward, and from all I could see of him during our three weeks' stay,
he appeared to me to be rascal enough for the stewardship of any
nobleman's estate in England. The captain landed, and took me as his
aide-de-camp. A bed was prepared for his lordship in the steward's
house, but he preferred sleeping on clean hay in the barn. This noble
lord was a man whose thoughts seldom gave much labour to his tongue; he
always preferred hearing others to talking himself; and whoever was his
companion, he must always be at the expense of the conversation. Nor
was it by the usual mode of simple narrative that his mind was
completely impressed with the image intended to be presented to him; he
required three different versions, or paraphrases, of the same story or
observation, and to these he had three different expletives or
ejaculations. These were "hum!" "eh!" and "ah!" The first denoted
attention; the second, part comprehension; and the third, assent and
entire approval; to mark which more distinctly, the last syllable was
drawn out to an immoderate length, and accompanied by a sort of half
laugh.
I shall give one instance of our colloquial pastime. His lordship,
after we had each taken up our quarters for the night, on the soft dry
hay, thus began:--
"I say,"--a pause.
"My lord?"
"What would they say in England, at our taking up such quarters?"
"I think, my lord, that as far as regards myself, they would say
nothing; but as far as regards your lordship, they would say it was very
indifferent accommodation for a nobleman."
"Hum!"
This I knew was the signal for a new version. "I was observing, my
lord, that a person of your rank, taking up his quarters in a barn,
would excite suspicion among your friends in England."
"Eh?" says his lordship.
That did not do--either your lordship's head or mine is very thick,
thinks I. I'll try again, though dying to go to sleep. "I say, my
lord, if the people in England knew what a good sailor you are, they
would be surprised at nothing you did; but those who know nothing, would
think it odd that you should be contented with such quarters."
"Ah!" said his lordship, triumphantly.
What further observations he was pleased to make that night I know not,
for I fell fast asleep, and did not awake till the cocks and hens began
to fly down from their roosts, and make a confounded clamour for their
breakfasts, when his lordship jumped up, gave himself a good shake, and
then gave me another of a different sort: it answered the purpose,
however, of restoring me to that reason, of which the cackling of the
poultry had only produced the incipient signs.
"Come, rouse out, you damned lazy chap," said my captain. "Do you mean
to sleep all day? We have got plenty to do."
"Ay, ay, my lord," said I. So up I jumped, and my toilet was completed
in the same time, and by the same operation, as that of a Newfoundland
dog, namely a good shake.
A large party of the ship's company came on shore with the carpenter,
bringing with them every implement useful in cutting down trees and
building log-houses. Such was to be our occupation, in order to house
these poor emigrants. Our men began to clear a patch of land, by
cutting down a number of pine-trees, the almost exclusive natives of the
wood; and having selected a spot for the foundation, we placed four
stems of trees in a parallelogram, having a deep notch in each end,
mutually to fit and embrace each other. When the walls, by this
repeated operation, were high enough, we laid on the rafters, and
covered the roof with boughs of the fir and the bark of the birch-tree,
filling the interstices with moss and mud. By practice, I became, a
very expert engineer, and with the assistance of thirty or forty men, I
could build a very good house in a day.
We next cleared, by burning and rooting up, as much land as would serve
to sustain the little colony for the ensuing season; and having planted
a crop of corn and potatoes, and giving the settlers many articles
useful in their new abode, we left them, agreeably to our orders, and to
my great joy returned to dear Halifax, where I again was blessed with
the sight of my innocent harem. I remember well that I received a
severe rebuke from the captain for inattention to signals. One was
addressed to us from the flag-ship; I was signal midshipman, but instead
of directing my glass towards the old _Centurion_, it was levelled at a
certain young Calypso, whose fair form I discovered wandering along the
"_gazon fleuri_:" how long would I not have dwelt in this happy Arcadia,
had not another Mentor pushed me off the rocks, and sent me once more to
buffet the briny waves.
Contrary to the opinion of any rational being, the President of the
United States was planning a war against England, and every ship in
Halifax harbour was preparing to fight the Yankees. The squadron sailed
in September. I bade adieu to the nymphs of Nova Scotia with more
indifference than became me, or than the reception I had met with from
them seemed to deserve; but I was the same selfish and ungrateful being
as ever. I cared for no one but my own dear self, and as long as I was
gratified, it mattered little to me how many broken hearts I left
behind.