W. H. Swift, assistant Topographer, commanding guard.

Thos. Say, Zoologist, &c.

E. James, Botanist, Geologist, and Surgeon.

T. R. Peale, assistant Naturalist.

Saml. Seymour, Landscape Painter.

Stephen Julien, Interpreter, French and Indian.

H. Dougherty, Hunter.

D. Adams, Spanish Interpreter.

Z. Wilson, Baggage Master.

Oakley and Duncan, Engagees.

Corporal Parish, and six privates of the U. S. army.

To these we expected an addition, on our arrival at the Pawnee

villages, of two Frenchmen, to serve as guides and interpreters, one of

them having already been engaged.

Twenty-eight horses and mules had been provided; one for each

individual of the party, and eight for carrying packs. Of these,

six were the property of the United States, being furnished by the

commanding officer at Camp Missouri; the remaining sixteen were

supplied by Major Long, and others of the party. {114} Our saddles and

other articles of equipage, were of the rudest kind, being, with a few

exceptions, such as we had purchased from the Indians, or constructed

ourselves.

Our outfit comprised the following articles of provisions, Indian

goods, &c. viz. 150lb. of pork, 500lb. of biscuit, 3 bushels of

parched corn meal, 5 gallons of whiskey, 25lb. of coffee, 30lb.

of sugar, and a small quantity of salt, 5lb. of vermilion, 2lb. of

beads, 2 gross of knives, 1 gross of combs, 1 dozen of fire steels,

300 flints, 1 dozen of gun worms, 2 gross of hawk's bells, 2 dozen of

mockasin awls, 1 dozen of scissors, 6 dozen of looking glasses, 30lb.

of tobacco, and a few trinkets, 2 axes, several hatchets, forage-bags,

canteens, bullet-pouches, powder-horns, tin cannisters, skin canoes,

packing-skins, pack cords, and some small packing-boxes for insects, &c.

The gentlemen of the party were supplied with such instruments as

were deemed indispensably requisite in their several pursuits. The

instruments for topographical purposes were, three travelling, and

several pocket compasses; one sextant, with radius of five inches; one

snuffbox sextant; one portable horizon with glass frame and mercurial

trough; one and a half pounds of mercury, in a case of box-wood; two

small thermometers; several blank books, portfolios, &c.

The hunters, interpreters, and attendants, were furnished with rifles

or muskets; the soldiers were armed exclusively with rifles, and

suitably equipped. Our stock of ammunition amounted in all to about 30

pounds of powder, 20 pounds of balls, and 40 pounds of lead, with a

plentiful supply of flints, and some small shot.

Several of the Indians about Council Bluff, to whom our proposed route

had been explained, and who had witnessed our preparations, affected to

laugh at our temerity, in attempting what they said we should never be

able to accomplish. They represented some {115} part of the country,

through which we intended to travel, as so entirely destitute of water

and grass, that neither ourselves nor our horses could be subsisted

while passing it. Baron Vasquez,[71] who accompanied Captain Pike, in

his expedition to the sources of the Arkansa, assured us there was no

probability we could avoid the attacks of hostile Indians, who infested

every part of the country. The assault which had been recently made

by a party of the Sauks and Foxes, upon a trading boat belonging to

Messrs. Pratte[72] and Vasquez, on the Missouri, above Council Bluff,

in which one man was killed, and several wounded, had at this time

spread considerable terror among those in any degree exposed to the

hostilities of the Indians.

[71] A. F. Baronet Vasquez accompanied Pike as interpreter. He was the

fifth child of Benito Vasquez, a Spaniard, who came to St. Louis in

1770, at the age of twenty, in the capacity of a subordinate military

officer. His mother, Julia Papin, was a French Canadian, daughter of

Pierre Papin. Baronet Vasquez, born in 1783, was in 1808 appointed

ensign in the United States army; he left the service in 1814, at which

time he was a first lieutenant of infantry. Pike usually calls Vasquez

"Baroney," and his name is so given in the army registers.—ED.

[72] Bernard Pratte was engaged in the fur-trade for many years, yet

available information concerning him is scanty. When Astor retired from

the American Fur Company (1834), the business of its Western Department

was sold to the St. Louis firm of Pratte, Chouteau and Co. Pratte

withdrew in 1838, but in 1842 reappeared as the head of the rival firm

of Pratte, Cabanne and Co. In 1819, Pratte and Vasquez had a post above

Council Bluffs, perhaps nearly opposite the site of the present town of

Onawa, Iowa. See Chittenden, _American Fur Trade_, pp. 364, 366, 367,

951. The Vasquez associated with Pratte was a brother of "Baroney,"

probably Benito, Jr.—ED.

With these prospects, and with the very inadequate outfit above

described, which was the utmost our united means enabled us to furnish,

we departed from Engineer Cantonment, at 11 o'clock, on the 6th of

June.[73]

[73] The route followed by the expedition, from Missouri River

to the site of Denver, became later the well-known route of the

overland stage, and is now essentially the line of the Union Pacific

Railroad.—ED.

The path leading to the Pawnee villages runs in a direction a little

south of west from the cantonment, and lies across a tract of high and

barren prairie for the first ten miles. At this distance it crosses

the Papillon, or Butterfly creek, a small stream discharging into the

Missouri three miles above the confluence of the Platte. Lieutenant

Graham and Mr. J. Dougherty accompanied us about five miles on our way;

we were also met by Lieutenant Talcott from Camp Missouri, who crossed

the bluffs on foot, to take leave of us. Much delay was occasioned,

as we passed along, by the derangement of the packs, the obstinacy of

the mules, and the want of dexterity and experience in our engagees;

we however arrived early in the afternoon at the Papillon, where we

encamped.

The Papillon, although it traverses a considerable extent of country,

was at this time but a trifling stream. Its channel is narrow, the

banks steep, and {116} like many other streams which have their whole

course in these arid plains, it is nearly destitute of water, except in

rainy seasons.[74]

[74] For Papillon Creek, see Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v,

note 40.—ED.

During the night some rain fell, but as we were furnished with three

tents, sufficiently large to shelter all our party, we experienced

little inconvenience from the storm. Our baggage was also effectually

protected, being laid in heaps, and covered with bear-skins; which were

also spread over it when placed upon the pack-horses, during our march

by day.

We had each two small blankets, which were carried upon our horses, one

being placed under the saddle, and the other upon it. These, with the

addition, in some instances, of a great coat, or a blanket-capot, and a

valise or a pair of holsters, to supply the place of a pillow, were our

only articles of bedding.

On morning of the 7th, a new disposition was made, in relation to the

pack-horses, a man being appointed to attend particularly to each. We

breakfasted, and recommenced our journey at an early hour, and moving

forward at an easy pace, arrived about ten o'clock at the Elk-horn,[75]

a considerable river, tributary to the Platte. On the preceding

evening, we had been joined at our camp by a party of three or four

Frenchmen, on their way to a hunting camp of the Omawhaws to trade.

We purchased of them two small brass kettles, to complete our supply

of camp furniture. One of these men had been of Pratte and Vasquez's

party, at the time of the late attack, and had received, in that

affair, a wound in the back from a rifle ball, which was yet unhealed.

In the morning they accompanied us to the Elk-horn, where the wounded

Frenchman was one of the first to strip and plunge into the river.

Surprising accounts are given of the hardihood, and patience under

suffering, manifested by the Indians; but we have rarely seen one of

them {117} exhibit a more striking instance of insensibility to pain,

than this Frenchman.

[75] See preceding volume, note 182.—ED.

The Elk-horn, called Wa-ta-tung-ya by the Otoes, is, where we crossed

it, about thirty yards wide, and during a great part of the year, too

deep and rapid to admit of being forded. At this time our horses were

barely able to keep their feet, in crossing the deepest part of the

channel. Our heavy baggage was ferried across in a portable canoe,

consisting of a single bison hide, which we carried constantly with

us. Its construction is extremely simple; the margin of the hide being

pierced with several small holes, admits a cord, by which it is drawn

into the form of shallow basin. This is placed upon the water, and is

kept sufficiently distended by the baggage which it receives; it is

then towed or pushed across. A canoe of this kind will carry from

four to five hundred pounds. The squaws, who are exceedingly expert

in this sort of navigation, transport not only their baggage, but

their children, and sometimes adults, across large rivers, in these

canoes, and with the most perfect safety. They place their children

on the baggage, and convey the whole across the stream, by swimming

themselves, and urging their charge before them to the opposite shore.

It is rare that any unpleasant accident occurs in this primitive mode

of ferrying.[76] The Elk-horn enters the Platte about fifty miles

above the confluence of that river and the Missouri. Its whole course

is through a country nearly destitute of timber. The low plains {118}

which extend along its bank have a fertile soil; but the want of timber

opposes a serious obstacle to their settlement.

[76] In Father Venegas' account of California, published at Madrid in

1758, we find a description of a similar method of transportation,

used by the natives of that country. "The inhabitants of the banks of

the Colorado make of the same herbs (a vine called Pita,) little tubs

or bins, called Coritas, which generally hold about two bushels of

maize; and in these they transport their goods from one shore to the

other, without being in the least damaged by the water, they themselves

swimming behind, and shoving these vehicles along before them." Vol. i.

p. 44. London, 1759.—_James._

_Comment by Ed._ See preceding volume, note 44, for sketch of Venegas.

The soil and climate here are so entirely similar to those of the

country about Grand river and the Little Platte, already described,

that no change in the vegetable productions could be expected. A

species of onion, with a root about as large as an ounce ball, and

bearing a conspicuous umbel of purple flowers, is very abundant about

the streams, and furnished a valuable addition to our bill of fare.

Soon after crossing the Elk-horn we entered the valley of the Platte,

which presented the view of an unvaried plain, from three to eight

miles in width, and extending more than one hundred miles along that

river, being a vast expanse of prairie, or natural meadow, without a

hill or other inequality of surface, and with scarce a tree or a shrub

to be seen upon it. The woodlands, occupying the islands in the Platte,

bound it on one side; the river-hills, low and gently sloped, terminate

it on the other.

At about three o'clock, P. M., a party of ten Indians were seen

crossing the plain, towards the Platte, at a great distance before

us. Soon after we arrived at a small creek, where was some scattered

timber: here we determined to halt for the night, being informed by our

guide that we would meet with no wood for twenty miles beyond.

As Indians had been seen in the afternoon, and we were aware of their

being still in our neighbourhood, it was thought proper to stake the

horses as near as possible to the camp, and to station two sentinels,

who were to be relieved during the night.

In our encampment we observed the following order. The three tents were

pitched in a right line, all fronting in the same direction. In advance

of these, at the distance of four feet, our baggage was arranged in

six heaps, one at the right, and one at the left of the entrance to

each tent, and protected from {119} the weather by bear-skins thrown

over them. This disposition was made, not only for the convenience of

the party, but that our baggage, in case of an attack of the Indians,

might serve as a kind of breast-work, behind which we might be, in some

measure, sheltered from danger. At any rate, having our baggage thus

arranged, we should know where to find it, and where to rally, in any

emergency by day or night.

On the ensuing morning, (8th,) we continued our journey along the

north side of the valley of the Platte, at the distance of four or five

miles from the river, the direction of our course south, 85° west,

which we followed near twenty miles.

In all our marches we observed the following order. Capt. Bell, mounted

on a horse whose gait was regular and uniform, and well calculated

for the estimation of distances, preceded the party, attended by our

guide.—The soldiers and attendants, formed into two squads, for the

better management of the pack-horses, followed in single file.—The

scientific gentlemen occupied any part of the line that best suited

their convenience.—Major Long followed in the rear, for the purpose

of superintending the readjustment of deranged packs, and urging any

disposed to linger, to the observance of a close order of march, a duty

attended with no inconsiderable trouble and perplexity. Though our

route lay at the distance of several miles from the Platte, we could

distinctly see the narrow and interrupted line of timber which grows

along its course, and occasionally we had a transient view of the river

itself, spreading like an expansive lake, and embosoming innumerable

islands. About eighteen miles from our encampment, our course led

us into the valley of a small river, called La petite Coquille or

Muscleshell Creek,[77] which we ascended six miles, not deviating from

the course we had taken. In the middle of the day we encountered a

violent thunder-storm without dismounting {120} from our horses. The

plain about us, for a great distance, was destitute of timber, and so

level that our party formed the most prominent object in an extent of

several miles. It is not surprising that, in this situation, we were a

little startled at seeing the lightning strike upon the ground at the

distance of two hundred yards from us. We could not have been deceived,

in relation to this appearance, as we distinctly saw the water and mud

thrown several feet into the air by the shock. The storm was so violent

that, notwithstanding all our care, we could not prevent our baggage

from being wet. We crossed the Coquille six miles above the place

where it enters the valley of the Platte. This we effected with some

difficulty, the banks being steep and muddy, and immediately afterwards

encamped to dry our baggage.

[77] See _ante_, note 40.—ED.

The Coquille is about eight yards across; its bed muddy and the current

moderate. Its course is circuitous, traversing some inconsiderable

tracts of fertile and well wooded bottom land: in one of these our

camp was placed. The night was warm and the mosquitoes swarming in

inconceivable multitudes.

Our baggage had been wet on the preceding day, and again by a heavy

shower in the night: as the morning was cloudy, we remained in camp for

some time, and attempted to dry our clothes and blankets by a large

fire. After breakfasting we again got upon our horses, and travelling

nearly south-west, arrived in the afternoon at the valley of the Wolf

river, or Loup fork of the Platte. This river is called by the Indians

the Little Missouri, on account of its resemblance, in the velocity of

its current, the turbidness of its waters, and other respects, to that

river.

Its sources are in the country of the Poncaras, opposite those of the

Quicurre.[78] Like the Platte, its {121} immediate valley is a broad

and woodless plain, almost without any perceptible unevenness of

surface, and bounded on each side by parallel ranges of low and barren

hills.

[78] See Lewis and Clarke, vol. i, p. 67.—JAMES.

_Comment by Ed._ See _ante_, note 21, for the Quicurre; and preceding

volume, note 200, for Loup River.

During our ride, as we were approaching the Loup fork, we met two

Pawnee Indians, handsomely mounted, and, as they informed us, on

their way to dance the calumet dance with the Omawhaws. We gave them

a small quantity of tobacco, and they departed, appearing highly

pleased. In the fertile grounds, along the valley of the Loup fork,

we observed several plants which we had not before seen: among these

was one belonging to the family of the malvaceæ, with a large tuberous

root which is soft and edible, being by no means ungrateful to the

taste.[79] We observed also the downy spike of the rabbit's-foot

plantain (plantago lagopus, Ph.) intermixed with the short grasses of

the prairie. The long-flowered puccoon, (batschia longiflora, N.) a

larger and more beautiful plant than the B. canescens is here frequent.

As we proceed westward, some changes are observed in the character of

the soil and the aspect of vegetation. The larkspurs and lichnedias,

(species of phlox and delphinium, so common and beautiful in all the

country between St. Louis and Council Bluff,) are succeeded by several

species of milk vetch,[80] some vicias, and the superb sweet pea

(lathyrus polymorphus). Every step of our progress to the west brought

us upon a less fertile soil. We had as yet seen no game except a few

antelopes, too wild and watchful to be taken without much trouble. In

the low prairies we saw several curlews and marbled godwits, with their

young; Bartram's sandpiper was also very frequent.

[79] This plant is destitute of the exterior calyx of the genus malva,

to which, however, it is more closely allied than to sida, into which

it would appear to fall by its artificial characters. It appears to be

a congener to the two new plants lately brought by Mr. Nuttall from

Arkansa, and which have received the name of _Nuttallia_.—JAMES.

[80] Astragalus _carnosus_, N. A. _Missouriensis_, N. A. _Laxmani_, Ph.

Gaura _coccinea_, N. Troximon _marginatum_, Ph. Hymenopappus

_tenuifolius_, Ph. Trichodium _laxiflorum_, Mx. Atheropogon

_oligostachyum_, N. Viola _palmata_, Ph? in fruit. Hedeoma _hirta_, N.

Hordeum _jubatum_, Anemone _tenella_, Ph. and other plants were among

our collections of this day.—JAMES.

{122} A little before sunset we crossed Grape Creek,[81] a small and

rapid stream of clear water, and soon after arrived at the Loup fork,

where we encamped. The banks of this river are of a fine white sand,

and are elevated no more than about eight feet above the surface of the

stream, at a time of low water. It does not however appear that the

low plains, contiguous to the Loup fork, are at any season inundated,

the channel being sufficiently wide, and the current rapid enough to

discharge all the water, which may at any time be brought down from

above.

[81] The description of Grape Creek corresponds to the present Looking

Glass Creek, in Platte County. The Pawnee called the stream "water that

reflects your shadow." With cultivation of the adjoining lands and the

advent of herds of wading cattle, the stream has lost its clearness.—ED.

In the evening, and on the following morning, observations were taken

to ascertain the magnetic variation, which was found to be 13½° east.

On the morning of the 10th, we crossed Beaver Creek,[82] six miles

south-west of our encampment. Here we were compelled to carry across

our baggage by hand, the creek being too deep and muddy to admit

risking it on the pack-horses.

[82] For Beaver Creek, see ante, note 42.—ED.

In fording this difficult stream, we had the misfortune to lose an

important part of the lock of an air-gun, and as there were no means of

replacing the lost article, it was determined to send back the gun from

the Pawnee villages by one of the traders, who was soon to return to

the Missouri.

While we were encamped at this spot, being detained by a heavy shower,

three Frenchmen and two Indians, arrived at the ford, on their way

to the Pawnee villages. They told us they had eaten nothing since

they left the Missouri. One of the Frenchmen brought a letter from

Lieutenant Graham, and a box containing a quantity of vaccine virus,

transmitted to the exploring party, for the purpose of introducing

vaccination among the Indians. The box alluded to had been sent to

the war department, by Mr. Sylvanus Fancher,[83] a gentleman in

Connecticut, and forwarded to the commanding officer of the expedition.

It contained a considerable {123} quantity of virus, carefully enclosed

in a variety of packing apparatus, together with instructions relative

to the disposition and application of it. But as it was not transmitted

till after the departure of the expedition from Pittsburgh, it had

been forwarded by mail to St. Louis, whence it was conveyed up the

Missouri, by a gentleman of the military expedition, under Colonel

Atkinson. Unfortunately, the keel-boat, on board of which it had been

deposited, was wrecked in ascending the river, and the box and its

contents, although saved from the wreck, was thoroughly drenched, and

the virus completely ruined. It was received three or four weeks after

the catastrophe just mentioned, and was still drenched with water.

[83] Sylvanus Fancher (called "Doctor" by courtesy) was a native

of Plymouth, Connecticut. An eccentric, uneducated character, his

notoriety was due to the fact that he embraced the vaccine theory

before it was adopted by regular physicians. His operations in the

unoccupied field of New England were for a few years remunerative;

but his improvidence prevented the accumulation of a competence, and

as medical men took up the practice of vaccination, his means of

livelihood declined. He died in Hartford in abject poverty. See sketch

in Anderson, _Town and City of Waterbury, Connecticut_ (New Haven,

1896), iii, p. 831.—ED.

The Frenchmen had, on their way, caught a horse belonging to Mr. J.

Dougherty, and intended for the use of his brother, who was of our

party. He had escaped several weeks previous, from Engineer Cantonment,

and since that time had been wandering in the prairies. This formed

a valuable addition to our stock of horses, as a number of them were

already unfit for service, on account of sore backs.

The Frenchmen and Indians were supplied with provisions from our packs,

and proceeded immediately on their way, intending to reach the Pawnee

villages the same evening.

At a late hour in the afternoon we resumed our journey, and at the

distance of four miles from Beaver Creek, crossed the Creek of Souls,

a small and muddy stream, in which two of the pack-horses fell, again

wetting our baggage.

At sunset we arrived at a small creek, eleven miles distant from the

village of the Grand Pawnees, where we encamped.[84]

[84] The first creek west of Beaver is Plum, so called from the

abundance of wild plums growing on its banks; it is not shown on most

maps. The name Creek of Souls is prophetic, as a mission station was

established here in 1843. Next to Plum Creek was Council Creek, flowing

south through Boone and Nance counties. Its name commemorates an Indian

council held there some years later by Dougherty. The names of Plum

Creek and Council Creek are sometimes interchanged. Beyond Council

Creek is Cedar Creek (see _ante_, note 43).

The Grand Pawnee village stood about thirty miles above the mouth of

Loup River, which would be between the Loup and Cedar Creek. The other

villages were in the neighborhood (see _ante_, p. 149). Within a few

years the villages were moved to or below the mouth of the Loup.—ED.

On the following morning, having arranged the party according to rank,

and given the necessary instructions for the preservation of order,

we proceeded forward, and in a short time came in sight of {124} the

first of the Pawnee villages. The trace on which we had travelled

since we left the Missouri, had the appearance of being more and more

frequented as we approached the Pawnee towns; and here, instead of

a single footway, it consisted of more than twenty parallel paths,

of similar size and appearance. At a few miles distance from the

village, we met a party of eight or ten squaws with hoes and other

instruments of agriculture, on their way to the corn plantations. They

were accompanied by one young Indian, but in what capacity, whether

as assistant, protector, or task-master, we were not informed. After

a ride of about three hours, we arrived before the village, and

despatched a messenger to inform the chief of our approach.

Answer was returned that he was engaged with his chiefs and warriors

at a medicine feast, and could not, therefore, come out to meet us.

We were soon surrounded by a crowd of women and children, who gazed

at us with some expressions of astonishment; but as no one appeared

to welcome us to the village, arrangements were made for sending on

the horses and baggage to a suitable place for encampment, while Major

Long, with several gentlemen, who wished to accompany him, entered the

village.

The party which accompanied Major Long, after groping about some time,

and traversing a considerable part of the village, arrived at the lodge

of the principal chief. Here we were again informed that Tarrarecawaho,

with all the principal men of the village, were engaged at a medicine

feast.

Notwithstanding his absence, some mats were spread for us upon the

ground, in the back part of the lodge. Upon these we sat down, and

after waiting some time, were presented with a large wooden dish of

hominy, or boiled maize. In this was a single spoon of the horn of a

bison, large enough to hold half a pint, which, being used alternately

by each of the party, soon emptied the dish of its contents.

{125} The interior of this capacious dwelling was dimly lighted from

a hole at the top, through which the sun's rays, in a defined column,

fell aslant upon the earthen floor. Immediately under this hole, which

is both window and chimney, is a small depression in the centre of the

floor, where the fire is made; but the upper parts of the lodge are

constantly filled with smoke, adding much to the air of gloominess and

obscurity which prevailed within. The furniture of Long Hair's lodge

consisted of mats, ingeniously woven of grass or rushes, bison robes,

wooden dishes, and one or two small brass kettles. In the part of the

lodge immediately opposite the entrance, we observed a rude niche in

the wall, which was occupied by a bison skull. It appeared to have been

exposed to the weather, until the flesh and periosteum had decayed, and

the bones had become white.

In this lodge we saw a number of squaws of different ages, but all, as

we supposed, the wives of Long Hair. This chief, who is somewhat of a

Turk in his domestic establishment, has eleven wives, nine of whom are

quiet occupants of the same lodge. He has but ten children.

Our visit to this village seemed to excite no great degree of

attention. Among the crowd, who surrounded us before we entered the

village, we observed several young squaws rather gaily dressed, being

wrapped in clean and new blankets, and having their heads ornamented

with wreaths of gnaphalium, and the silvery leaves of the prosalea

canescens. On the tops of the lodges we also saw some display of

finery, which we supposed to have been made on account of our visit.

Flags were hoisted, shields, and bows, and quivers, were suspended in

conspicuous places, scalps were hung out; in short, the people appeared

to have exposed whatever they possessed, in the exhibition of which

they could find any gratification of their vanity. Aside from these, we

received no distinguished marks of attention from the Grand Pawnees.

{126} After spending an hour or two at their village, we retired to our

camp about a mile distant. Here we were shortly afterwards visited by

Long Hair, the Malicious chief,[85] and several others. They had with

them a young Spaniard, who interpreted Pawnee and French, by whose

means we were able to communicate freely with them. They offered some

apology, for not receiving us at their village, saying, they could not

have left their medicine feast, if the village had been on fire. We

caused our intended route to be explained to them, with the objects we

had in view, in undertaking so long a journey. To this they answered,

that our undertaking was attended with great difficulty and danger;

that the country about the head of the Platte was filled with bands of

powerful and ferocious Indians, who would lose no opportunity to attack

and injure us; that in some parts of our route, we must suffer from

want of water, in others there was no game. "In short," said the Grand

chief, "you must have long hearts, to undertake such a journey with so

weak a force; hearts that would reach from the earth to the heavens."

These representations would, it is probable, have had some effect upon

our spirits, had we not supposed they were made entirely for that

purpose. The Pawnees undoubtedly hoped to alarm our fears to such a

degree, that we should be induced to relinquish our proposed journey;

their design being to deter us from passing through their hunting

grounds, and perhaps hoping by these means to possess themselves of a

larger share of the articles we had provided for Indian presents.

[85] Ishcatappa; see _ante_, note 46.—ED.

Finding our determination was not to be shaken, they advised us to

ascend the Loup fork, instead of taking the route by the Platte, which

we had mentioned. This advice, and the statement by which it was

accompanied, that there were no bisons on the Platte, we suspected of

originating from the same motive which had induced them to make the

representation {127} above mentioned; it was not, therefore, allowed in

any manner to influence our determination.

After collecting from them what information we could obtain, relative

to the country to the west, we endeavoured to dismiss them with

some presents. They were not, however, easily to be satisfied—they

importuned us for tobacco, and other articles, which the limited nature

of our supplies would not allow us to give, as we expected soon to meet

with Indians, whose good will it would be more important for us to

purchase.

Our camp was something more than a mile from the village. The

intervening space, as well as the plain for a great extent on all

sides, was covered with great numbers of horses, intermixed with men,

women, and children. The men having no serious business, pass much of

their time in the open air, either on horseback, or engaged at some

game of hazard.

The Pawnees are expert horsemen, and delight in the exhibition of feats

of skill and adroitness. Many of their horses are branded, but this

is the case with such only as are taken in their predatory excursions

against the Spaniards of New Mexico, or the south-western Indians; the

branded horses all come originally from the Spaniards. It does not

appear that the Indians have any method of affixing distinctive marks

to their animals. Each Indian has usually but a very limited number of

horses, which are as well known, and as universally acknowledged to be

his, as the children or other members of his family. Some of the finest

horses which we observed, were ornamented with gaudy trappings, and

furniture of Spanish manufacture.

We spent some time in attempting to explain to the chiefs the nature

and effects of the vaccine disease, and in endeavouring to persuade

them to influence some of their people to submit to inoculation;

{128} but in this we were unsuccessful. It is now several years since

the ravages of the small pox have been experienced among them, and

it is probable they feel an undue degree of security against its

future visitations. We were, however, by no means confident that they

comprehended what we said on the subject of vaccination; if they did,

it is not probable their confidence in us was sufficient to induce them

to receive it as truth. All we were able to effect, was to persuade the

young Spanish interpreter to allow us to make use of his arm, to show

the Indians that the proposed operation was by no means a formidable

one. With the same intention, the operation was performed upon Major

Long's arm, and that of Mr. H. Dougherty.

We were not very solicitous to make the experiment among them, our

virus, as before remarked, being unfit for use. We were accordingly

afraid of impairing their confidence in the remedy.

In the plain about the village, we noticed several little groups of

squaws, busily engaged in dressing the skins of the bison for robes.

When the processes of tanning and dressing are completed, and the inner

surface of the skin dry, figures are traced upon it with vermilion, and

other showy colours.

These are designed as ornaments, but are sometimes a record of

important facts. The story of a battle is often depicted in this way,

and the robe of a warrior is frequently decorated with the narration,

in pictures, of some of his exploits.

During the afternoon our camp was somewhat thronged by the Indians,

offering to trade horses, and squaws proposing barters, but at night

they withdrew towards their village, and all remained quiet.

As the day began to dawn on the following morning, numerous parties

of squaws, accompanied by their dogs, were seen on their way from the

village to the corn patches, scattered at the distance of several miles.

{129} At sunrise we mounted our horses, and arranging ourselves as

on the preceding day, and carrying a white silk flag with a painted

design, emblematic of peaceable intentions in the front, and the United

States' flag in the centre of our party, we moved forward towards the

second village, distant about three miles from our camp.

The bands which inhabit this village, are called Republican Pawnees.

This name, it is said, has been applied to this band, in consequence of

their having seceded from the parent stock or Grand Pawnees, some years

since, and established themselves under a separate government.

They resided formerly on the Republican fork of the Konzas river, to

which they have given their name; whence they removed a few years since

to their present situation, that they might enjoy the protection of

their more powerful allies, the Grand Pawnees. Their village is distant

four miles from that of the Grand Pawnees, and like it on the immediate

bank of the river. Fool Robe, their chief, received us with a little

more attention than we had met on the preceding day, shaking us each by

the hand. He afterwards conducted us to his lodge, within the village,

but excused himself from feasting us, saying, his squaws were all

absent at the corn fields.

It was a war party from this band which had plundered the detachment

from the steam-boat on the preceding summer near the Konza village.

For this outrage they had been compelled, by the prompt and vigorous

interference of Major O'Fallon, the Indian agent, to make ample

restitution. Whether it was that Fool Robe and his warriors were yet

a little sore on account of this affair, or for some other reason, it

was evident we were not welcome visitants. We had hitherto entertained

exalted ideas of the hospitality of the Pawnees in their manner of

receiving strangers, and were consequently a little {130} disappointed

at the reception we had met. We stayed but a short time with Fool Robe.

Having briefly described to him the outline of our intended journey,

and listened to his remarks and advice respecting it, we remounted our

horses, and proceeded towards the Loup village.

On our way we were met by the Knife-chief, who, having heard of our

intention to visit him, came out on horseback, and met us more than

a mile from the village. He gave us a very cordial and friendly

reception, frequently rubbing his breast in token of the satisfaction

he felt at seeing us. His frank and intelligent countenance, and his

impressive gestures, made him easily understood, without the aid

of an interpreter. As our cavalcade passed by him, he appeared to

examine, with some attention, the physiognomy and appointments of

the individuals composing it; but when his rapid eye alighted upon

Julien, with whom he could use much freedom, he rode up to him, and

eagerly inquired, by means of signs, (v. Nos. 27. and 14.)[86] if we

had brought with us any whiskey, which we were grieved to learn, by

this intimation, that he was acquainted with, and would indulge in;

Julien replied in the negative, by the exhibition of the proper sign,

(No. 65.) with which he did not betray any dissatisfaction, although it

was evident from his subsequent conversation that he believed it to be

false. On the way to the village he pointed out a convenient place for

us to dispose of our horses and establish our camp. Here we dismounted,

leaving our horses in the care of the guard, and followed the chief to

his lodge. Soon after our arrival a large dish was placed before us,

according to the custom of the Indians, filled with boiled sweet corn.

While we were eating, the Knife-chief, with the principal men of his

nation, were sitting silently behind us. Having finished our repast,

we gave the Indians an account of ourselves, the occasion of our visit

to {131} them, our intended journey to the mountains at the head of

the Platte, &c. as in the other villages. To all this the Knife-chief

listened with great attention. He expressed himself satisfied with the

account we had given of the objects of our enterprize, but feared we

should be ill treated by the savages we should meet. "Your heart must

be strong," said he, "to go upon so hazardous a journey. May the Master

of Life be your protector." The same benediction had been given us by

the chiefs of the Republican and Grand Pawnees, probably with nearly

the same degree of ingenuousness and sincerity. The Pawnees are at war

with the Arrapahoes, Kaskaias,[87] and other erratic bands, who wander

about the sources of the Platte and Arkansa. Their war parties are

often sent out in that direction, where they sometimes meet a spirited

reception from their enemies. It may be on this account that the

Pawnees connect the idea of imminent danger to an excursion into those

parts of the country which we proposed to visit. It is, however, highly

probable their unwillingness to have us pass through their hunting

grounds was the most productive cause of all the anxiety, and all the

fears they expressed on our account.

[86] See Appendix B.—ED.

[87] The "Kaskaias" were closely akin to the Comanche, if not identical

with them. The name is rarely used after the date of the present

account, and the term Comanche is extended so as to include the Indians

to which it is here applied. Jedidiah Morse, Indian commissioner,

reckoned their numbers (1822) at three thousand, and located them

along the base of the Rocky Mountains, in the same area over which the

Comanche roamed.—ED.

The chief addressed us for some time with great apparent earnestness,

but his discourse, as it came to our comprehension by the aid of an

interpreter, whom we obtained at this village, seemed directed solely

to one object, the exciting our compassion for his poverty.

"Father,—You see me here; I am very poor; my young men are very poor;

we hope our Great Father will not forget the red skins, his children,

they are poor;" with a great deal more in the same strain. He, however,

returned frequently to the subject of our journey to the west. "I will

tell my young men," said he, (meaning the war parties which should be

sent out in that direction,) "when {132} they meet you, to take you by

the hand, and smoke the peace pipe with you."

The Knife-chief, with his son Petalesharoo, celebrated for his filial

affection, his valour, and his humanity, visited us at our camp in the

afternoon, and we were proud to entertain one whom we thought so worthy

of our admiration. We also received a visit from a _Medicine-man_, who,

having heard there were great medicine men belonging to our party,

requested to be shown some of the mysteries of their profession. We

accordingly displayed before him a pair of bullet-forceps, a small

case of surgeons' instruments, and some similar articles, and began

to explain to him the use of each. He attended for some time to our

discourse, but apparently without comprehending any part of it, and

at length turned abruptly away, with an air of dissatisfaction and

contempt.

The Canadian, who had been engaged before we left the Missouri as a

guide, now gave us to understand that it was not his intention to

accompany the expedition. Having been informed of other persons in

the village who were qualified for this undertaking, Major Long made

application to several of these, who at first expressed a willingness

to accompany him, but soon afterwards recalled their promises.

Finding them disposed to trifle in this manner, he at length assured

them that, unless some one was immediately procured to attend the

expedition as guide, their refusal, and the breach of engagement on

the part of Bijeau, should be made known to the agent, and the whole

corps of Canadian traders be deprived of the privilege of residing, or

trading among the Pawnees. This representation had the desired effect.

A ludicrous degree of consternation and alarm was depicted upon the

faces of all the traders, and they immediately made a common concern

of a subject which before they had treated with very little attention.

Two were immediately selected {133} from their number, and were in a

short time ready to attend us. It is probable almost any other method

of punishment would have appeared to them less terrible. Having been

long resident among the Indians, they have conformed to their mode of

life, which certainly is not without its charms to the uninformed and

the idle. A tie not less powerful is that of conjugal and paternal

affection, they having among the Indians wives and children relying

upon their exertions for protection and maintenance.

About the village we saw several parties of young men eagerly engaged

at games of hazard. One of these, which we noticed particularly, is

played between two persons, and something is staked on the event of

each game. The instruments used are a small hoop, about six inches

in diameter, which is usually wound with thongs of leather, and a

pole, five or six feet long, on the larger end of which a limb is

left to project about six inches. The whole bears some resemblance to

a shepherd's crook. The game is played upon a smooth beaten path, at

one end of which the gamester commences, and running at full speed, he

first rolls from him the hoop, then discharges after it the pole, which

slides along the path, pursuing the hoop, until both stop together,

at a distance of about thirty yards from the place whence they were

thrown. After throwing them from him, the gamester continues his pace,

and the Indian, the hoop, and the pole arrive at the end of the path

about the same time. The effort appears to be to place the end of the

pole either in the ring, or as near as possible; and we could perceive

that those casts were considered best when the ring was caught by

the hook at the end of the pole. What constitutes a point, or how

many points are reckoned to the game, we could not ascertain. It is,

however, sufficiently evident that they are desperate gamesters, often

losing their ornaments, articles of dress, &c. at play.

{134} This game, like some of those described in a former part of

this work, requires considerable exertion, and is well calculated

for the exhibition of that gracefulness of figure, and that ease and

celerity of motion in which the savages so far surpass their civilized

neighbours. We saw many young men engaged at these diversions, who

had thrown aside their robes, leggins, and all superfluous articles

of dress, displaying a symmetry of proportion, and beauty of form,

which we have rarely seen surpassed. They were so intent upon their

diversion, that in some instances our approach towards them, as we

were rambling about the village, did not for a moment call off their

attention from the game.

The population of the three Pawnee villages was estimated by Captain

Pike, in 1806, at 6,223, and they were at that time supposed to be

able to call into the field 1,993 warriors. At present it is believed

they would fall short of this estimate, particularly in the number

of warriors. They are, however, still numerous, and are said to be

increasing, and are respected by the Sioux, and other neighbouring

nations, as warlike and powerful.[88]

[88] The Pawnee now number about six hundred and fifty souls.—ED.

About the three villages are six or eight thousand horses, feeding

in the plains during the day, but confined at night. These, with a

breed of sharp-eared, meagre, wolf-like dogs, are their only domestic

animals. On the approach of winter they conceal their stores of corn,

dry pumpkins, beans, &c. and with their whole retinue of dogs and

horses desert their villages. This they are compelled to do from the

want of wood, not only for fuel, but for the support of their numerous

horses.

They encamp in their lodges of skins wherever the cotton wood is found

in sufficient quantities for their horses, and game for themselves.

The horses, in the country bordering the Missouri, are fed during the

winter, in the extensive wooded bottoms of that river, and are not,

therefore, confined exclusively to {135} the cotton wood, having access

to other timber, also to the rushes and coarse grass which abound in

the bottoms. We are, however, well assured that the Indian horses,

farther to the west, about the upper branches of the Platte, and

Arkansa, subsist and thrive during the winter, with no other article

of food than the bark and branches of the cotton wood. The winter at

the Pawnee villages is said to be uncommonly severe, but is probably

little, if any more so, than at Council Bluff, on the Missouri.

Thermometric observations at Council Bluff, and at St. Peters[89]

on the Mississippi, prove that the climate at these two places does

not very widely differ from that of the corresponding latitudes on

the Atlantic coast, except that it is at times something colder. The

vicissitudes of temperature appear to be equally great and sudden.

[89] The purposes of the Yellowstone expedition included the

establishment of this military post at the mouth of Minnesota River;

during 1819 barracks were erected and fortifications begun.—ED.

The climate at Council Bluff is beyond the influence of the

south-western winds from the Gulf of Mexico, which have been supposed

to have so perceptible an effect to soften the rigours of winter in

the valley of the Lower Mississippi. The three Pawnee villages, with

their pasture grounds and insignificant enclosures, occupy about ten

miles in length of the fertile valley of the Wolf river. The surface is

wholly naked of timber, rising gradually to the river hills, which are

broad and low, and from a mile to a mile and an half distant. The soil

of this valley is deep and of inexhaustible fertility. The surface,

to the depth of two or three feet, is a dark coloured vegetable mould

intermixed with argillaceous loam, and still deeper, with a fine

siliceous sand. The agriculture of the Pawnees is extremely rude. They

are supplied with a few hoes by the traders, but many of their labours

are accomplished with the rude instruments of wood and bone which

their own ingenuity supplies. They plant corn and pumpkins in little

patches along the sides of deep ravines, and wherever by any accident

the grassy {136} turf has been eradicated. Sometimes these little

plantations are enclosed with a sort of wicker fence, and in other

instances are left entirely open. These last are probably watched by

the squaws during the day time, when the horses run at large.

We slept on the night of 12th at our encampment in front of the Pawnee

Loup village. During the night all remained at rest except the dogs,

who howled in concert, in the same voice, and nearly to the same tune,

as the wolves, to whose nightly serenade we were now accustomed.

As soon as the day dawned we observed the surrounding plain filled

with groups of squaws, with their small children, trooping to their

cornfields in every direction. Some, who passed our encampment,

lingered a moment to admire our novel appearance; but the air of

serious business was manifest in their countenances, and they soon

hurried away to their daily labours. Some of the groups of young

females were accompanied by a jolly looking young man as a protector.

Their corn is usually gathered before it is entirely ripe, it is then

boiled, cut from the cob, and dried. Their cookery consists in boiling

it, either with or without the tallow of the bison, according to the

state of their supplies. The pumpkins are cut in slips, which are

dried in the sun, and afterwards woven into mats for the convenience

of carrying. They offered us these articles in exchange for tobacco,

vermillion, beads, looking-glasses, and various other trinkets. Also

jerked bison beef, and the tallow of that animal, of which we purchased

a small quantity. We saw among them the _pomme blanche_, as called by

the Canadian traders and boatmen, which is the root of the Psoralea

_esculenta_. It is eaten either boiled or roasted, and somewhat

resembles the sweet potato.

At ten o'clock, on the morning of the 13th, we commenced crossing

the river, opposite the village. This we found an undertaking of

some difficulty, as {137} the current was rapid, and the bottom

partook something of the nature of quick-sands. Major Long, Mr. Say,

and one or two others, who were riding at the head of our line, had

nearly crossed, and were wading their horses about midsides deep

in the water, when they were suddenly thrown from their saddles by

the sinking of their horses' feet in the sand; the horses, however,

extricated themselves by their own exertion; and those of the party who

had experienced this unexpected immersion, were greeted, upon their

standing up in the water, by the shouts and acclamations of the Pawnees

who lined the shore we had left. Major Long's gun and jacob-staff, as

well as Mr. Say's gun, blanket, and other articles, were dropped into

the river; all of these were, however, recovered except the blanket;

and Mr. Say, having lost the greater part of his furniture at the

river of Souls, by the ill-timed activity of his horse, was now, in a

great measure, unencumbered with baggage. At length, by leading our

horses, we arrived in safety on the opposite shore, where we encamped,

intending to make some further barters with the Pawnees, and to dry

some of our baggage, guns, &c. which had been wet in crossing.

The sand of this river, which in the aggregate, has a very white

appearance, consists principally of minute grains of transparent

quartz, mixed with some which are red, yellow, and variously coloured.

The shore, opposite the Loup village, is covered with shrubs and other

plants, growing among the loose sands. One of the most common is a

large flowering rose, rising to about three feet high, and diffusing a

most grateful fragrance. The Symphoria _glomerata_, common in all the

country west of the Mississippi thus far, is also a beautiful shrub

very frequent at this place; the flowers are white, with a faint

and delicate tinge of red, having the inside of the corolla densely

villous, like the Mitchilla, to which plant it is manifestly allied. On

the hills, at {138} a little distance from the river, we observed the

_Cactus fragilis_. This plant, which was first detected on the Missouri

by Lewis and Clark, has been accurately described by Mr. Nuttall. The

articulations or joints of which it consists, are small, oblong, and

tapering, but separate from each other with great readiness, and adhere

by means of the barbed spines, with which they are thickly set, to

whatever they may happen to touch. This has led to a saying among the

hunters, that the plant grows without roots.

In the afternoon a young Indian belonging to the Arikara nation on the

Missouri, but who resided among the Pawnees, stopped at our camp, on

his return from a solitary excursion to the Arkansa. He had brought

with him, from one of the upper branches of that river, two masses of

salt, each weighing about thirty pounds. This salt is pure and perfect,

consisting of large crystalline grains, so concreted together as to

form a mass about twenty inches in diameter and six in thickness. It

had evidently been formed by the evaporation of water in some pond

or basin, and that surface of the mass, which was its lower in its

original position, was intermixed with red sand, indicating the sort

of soil in which it is found. Mr. Peale procured some specimens in

exchange for tobacco.

This Indian had been many days absent, on his excursion, and as he sat

upon his horse before our encampment we had an opportunity to note a

trait in the Indian character, which has been the subject of remark by

many authors, and which we had previously observed in several instances

ourselves; we allude to the apparent coolness which friends, and

the nearest relatives, observe to each other when they meet after a

long separation. Several of his fellow townsmen, who were about our

encampment, hardly noticed him when he first appeared, and it was only

after the lapse of a considerable interval {139} that one of them spoke

to him, but without any visible ceremony of greeting.

On the morning of the 14th, we left our encampment, opposite the

village of the Pawnee Loups, and proceeded on our journey, taking the

most direct course towards the Platte. Our party had here received

an addition of two men, one named Bijeau, engaged as guide and

interpreter, the other, Ledoux, to serve as hunter, farrier, &c. Both

were Frenchmen, residing permanently among the Pawnees, and had been

repeatedly on the head waters of the Platte and Arkansa, for the

purpose of hunting and trapping beaver. Bijeau was partially acquainted

with several Indian languages; in particular, that of the Crow nation,

which is extensively understood by the western tribes, and, by frequent

intercourse with the savages he had gained a complete knowledge of

the language of signs, universally current among them. The great

number, and the wide dissimilarity of the dialects of the aborigines

render this method of communication necessary to them, and it is not

surprising it should have arrived at considerable perfection among

tribes who, from their situation and manner of life, must often find

occasion to make use of it.

Besides these two men, a young Spaniard, a refugee from some of the

settlements of New Mexico, joined our party, intending to accompany us

as far as his fear of his own countrymen would permit. He had probably

been guilty of some misdemeanor, which made it necessary to avoid his

former acquaintances, and, on this account, he could not be induced

to accompany us into the neighbourhood of the Spanish settlements.

The Frenchmen brought with them three horses and a mule, so that our

party, which was now supposed to be made up for the journey, consisted,

exclusive of the Spaniard, of twenty-two men, thirty-four horses and

mules, and two dogs.

{140} We were well armed and equipped, each man carrying a yauger or

rifle gun, with the exception of two or three who had muskets; most

of us had pistols, all tomahawks and long knives, which we carried

suspended at our belts. We believed ourselves about to enter on a

district of country inhabited by lawless and predatory bands of

savages, where we should have occasion to make use, not only of our

arms, but of whatever share of courage and hardihood we might chance to

possess.

The country which we passed on the 14th, lying between the Loup fork

and the Platte, has a moderately hilly surface, except that portion of

it which comprises the bottom lands of the two rivers. The ridges are

of little elevation, destitute of stone of any kind, and irregular in

direction; the soil is sandy and infertile. The high and barren parts

of this tract are occupied by numerous communities of the Prairie dog

or Louisiana marmot.[90]

[90] _Arctomys Ludoviciana._ ORD.—This interesting and sprightly little

animal has received the absurd and inappropriate name of Prairie dog,

from a fancied resemblance of its warning cry to the hurried barking of

a small dog. This sound may be imitated with the human voice, by the

pronunciation of the syllable cheh, cheh, cheh, in a sibilated manner,

and in rapid succession, by propelling the breath between the tip of

the tongue and the roof of the mouth. The animal is of a light dirty

reddish-brown colour above, which is intermixed with some gray, also a

few black hairs. This coating of hair is of a dark lead colour next the

skin, then bluish-white, then light reddish, then gray at the tip. The

lower parts of the body are of a dirty white colour. The head is wide

and depressed above, with large eyes; the iris is dark brown. The ears

are short and truncated; the whiskers of moderate length and black; a

few bristles project from the anterior portion of the superior orbit of

the eye, and a few also from a wart on the cheek: the nose is somewhat

sharp and compressed; the hair of the anterior legs, and that of the

throat and neck, is not dusky at base. All the feet are five-toed,

covered with very short hair, and armed with rather long black nails:

the exterior one of the fore foot nearly attains the base of the next,

and the middle one is half an inch in length: the thumb is armed with

a conic nail, three-tenths of an inch in length; the tail is rather

short, banded with brown near the tip, and the hair, excepting near the

body, is not plumbeous at base.[91]

The length of the animal, from the tip of the nose to the origin of the

tail, is sixteen inches; of the tail, two inches and three-fourths; of

the hair at its tip three-fourths of an inch.

As particular districts, of limited extent, are, in general, occupied

by the burrows of these animals, such assemblages of dwellings are

denominated _Prairie dog villages_ by hunters and others who wander in

these remote regions.

These villages, like those of man, differ widely in the extent of

surface which they occupy; some are confined to an area of a few acres,

others are bounded by a circumference of many miles. Only one of these

villages occurred between the Missouri and the Pawnee towns; thence to

the Platte they were much more numerous.

The entrance to the burrow is at the summit of the little mound of

earth, brought up by the animal during the progress of the excavation

below.

These mounds are sometimes inconspicuous, but generally somewhat

elevated above the common surface, though rarely to the height of

eighteen inches. Their form is that of a truncated cone, on a base of

two or three feet, perforated by a comparatively large hole or entrance

at the summit or in the side. The whole surface, but more particularly

the summit, is trodden down and compacted, like a well-worn pathway.

The hole descends vertically to the depth of one or two feet, whence it

continues in an oblique direction downward.

A single burrow may have many occupants. We have seen as many as seven

or eight individuals sitting upon one mound.

They delight to sport about the entrance of their burrows in pleasant

weather; at the approach of danger they retreat to their dens; or

when its proximity is not too immediate, they remain, barking, and

flourishing their tails, on the edge of their holes, or sitting erect

to reconnoitre. When fired upon in this situation, they never fail to

escape, or if killed, instantly to fall into their burrows, where they

are beyond the reach of the hunter.

As they pass the winter in a lethargic sleep, they lay up no provision

of food for that season, but defend themselves from its rigours

by accurately closing up the entrance of the burrow. The further

arrangements which the Prairie dog makes for its comfort and security

are well worthy of attention. He constructs for himself a very neat

globular cell with fine dry grass, having an aperture at top, large

enough to admit the finger, and so compactly formed that it might

almost be rolled over the floor without receiving injury.

The burrows are not always equidistant from each other, though they

occur usually at intervals of about twenty feet.[92]—JAMES.

_Comment by Ed._ The scientific name of the prairie-dog is now _cynomys

ludovicianus_; see Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, note 61.

[91] This description is drawn chiefly from a well-prepared specimen

belonging to the Philadelphia museum, the tail of which, if we may

decide from memory, is somewhat too short.

[92] In these villages, where the grass is fed close, and where much

fresh earth is brought up and exposed to the air, is the peculiar

habitat of a species of Solanum approaching the _S. triflorum_ of

Nuttall, which, he says, occurs as a weed "about the gardens of the

Mandans and Minatarees of the Missouri, and in no other situations." It

appears to differ from the S. triflorum in being a little hirsute, with

flat, runcinate, pinnatifid leaves, and the peduncles alternating with

the leaves. The Solanum _heterandrum_ of Pursh, now referred to the new

genus Androcera of Nuttall, is also very common, but is not confined,

like the plant just mentioned, to the marmot villages. We collected

also the Psoralea _cuspidata_, Ph. P. _esculenta_, N. P. _incana_, N.

also a species of Hieracium—H. _runcinatum_. Plant hirsute, leaves

all radical, elliptic-oblong, runcinate; scape few-flowered, somewhat

compressed, and angular; glands on the hairs of the calix, very small

and diaphanous; about one foot high; flower small. Hab. in depressed,

grassy situations along the Platte.

On arriving near the Platte we observed a species of prickly pear

(_Cactus ferox. N._) to become very numerous. It resembles the common

prickly pear of New Jersey, (_C. opuntia._) but is larger, and

protected by a more formidable armature of thorns. Our Indian horses

were so well acquainted with this plant, and its properties, that they

used the utmost care to avoid stepping near it. The flowers are of a

sulphur yellow, and when fully expanded are nearly as large as those of

the garden pæony, and crowded together upon the summits of the terminal

articulations of which the plant consists. These articulations, (or

segments contained between the joints,) are oblong and flattened,

being longer and thicker than a man's hand. A second species, the _C.

mamillaris, N._ occurs on the dry sandy ridges between the Pawnee

villages and the Platte. The beautiful cristaria _coccinea. Ph._ (malva

_coccinea. N._) is very frequent in the low plains along the Platte.

Its flowers {141} have nearly the aspect of those of the common wild

rose, except that they are more deeply coloured.

We arrived at the Platte, a little before sun-set, the distance from

the Pawnees being, according to our computation, twenty-five miles.

After entering the valley of the river, we travelled several miles

across an unvaried plain, and at length passing down by a gradual

descent of a few feet, we came upon a second level tract, extending to

the river.

The soil of the first of these portions is a bed of sand, intermixed

with small water-worn pebbles and gravel; that of the latter is more

fertile, and produces a luxuriant vegetation.

Our guide informed us that the Platte, opposite the point where we

entered its valley, contains an island which is more than one day's

journey across, and about thirty miles in length.[93]

[93] Known as Grand Island. It extends from Buffalo County on the

west through Hall into Merrick County. The dimensions given in the

text are not accurate; it has an average width of only a mile and

three-quarters, but is more than fifty miles in length. Frémont

described it (1842) as well timbered, fertile, and above high water

level; he noted it as the most suitable site on the lower Platte

for a military post. See _Report of Exploring Expedition to Rocky

Mountains in the Year 1842_ (Washington, 1845), p. 78. Fort Kearney

was established in 1848, in Kearney County, near the upper end of the

island.—ED.

At no great distance from our camp, which was placed immediately on the

brink of the river, we found the body of a horse lying dead in the edge

of the water. The animal had, in all probability, been recently lost by

a war party of Indians.

15th. Soon after leaving our camp we crossed a small stream, tributary

to the Platte, from the north. It is called Great Wood river, and has

some timber along its banks.[94]

[94] Now Wood River. It rises in Custer County, flows southeast through

Dawson and western Buffalo counties, then turns and flows east by

northeast to central Hall County, where it empties into the channel of

the Platte, which runs north of Grand Island. The timber on its banks,

from which it obtained its name, was consumed in building the Union

Pacific Railroad.—ED.

Our provisions being nearly exhausted, two of the hunters were sent

forward in search of game; but after some time they rejoined the party,

having killed nothing.

Shortly afterwards a single bison was discovered some miles ahead of

the party, and travelling apparently in the same direction. Four of

our hunters, having disencumbered their horses of all their baggage,

spurred forward in the pursuit, but none of them were able to overtake

the animal, except the young Spaniard, who came near enough to wound it

with an arrow; but his horse being exhausted, he {142} was compelled to

desist from the pursuit, and suffer the bison to escape.

Having ascended the Platte about sixteen miles, we halted, to make

such a dinner as the condition of our stores would allow; and here the

Spaniard took his leave of us to return to the Pawnees.

In the scenery of the Platte there is the utmost uniformity; a broad

plain, unvaried by any object on which the eye can rest, lies extended

before us; on our right are the low and distant hills which bound the

valley, and on our left the broad Platte, studded with numerous small

but verdant islands. On these islands is usually a little timber, which

is not met with in other situations. We were fortunate in finding,

towards evening, an old Indian encampment, where were poles, stakes,

&c. which had been brought from the islands, and here we placed our

camp. Some antelopes were seen during the day, but so wild and vigilant

that all our efforts to take them proved unsuccessful. Our supper,

therefore, was not of the choicest kind, and, what was infinitely more

vexatious to us, was limited in quantity.

On the following day we passed a number of prairie dog villages, some

of them extending from two to three miles along the river. Though much

in want of game, most of our exertions to take these animals were

without success. A number were killed, but we were able to possess

ourselves of no more than two of them. These we found to be in good

condition and well flavoured. Their flesh nearly resembles that of the

ground hog, or woodchuck (Arctomys Marylandica.)

In some small ponds near the Platte we saw the common species of

pond weed (Potamogeton _natans_ and P. _fluitans_. Ph.) also the

Utricularia longirostris, of Leconte, and an interesting species of

Myriophillum.[95]

[95] Among other plants collected along the Platte on the 15th and

16th June, are the Cherianthus _asper_, N., Helianthemum _canadense_,

Atheropogon _apludoides_, N., Myosotis _scorpioides_, Pentstemon

_gracile_. N. The Cherianthus asper is intensely bitter in every part,

particularly the root, which is used as medicine by the Indians. In

depressed and moist places along the river, we observed a species of

Plantago, which is manifestly allied to P. _eriophora_ of Wallich,

Flor. Ind. p. 423, also to P. _attenuata_ of the same work, p. 422.

The base of the scape and leaves is invested with a dense tuft of long

fine wool, of a rusty brown colour. Before the plant is taken up this

tuft is concealed in the soil, being a little below the surface, but it

adheres closely to the dried specimen. Its leaves, which are the size

of those of P. _lanceolata_, are smooth, fine nerved, with a few remote

denticulations. Scape slender, exceeding the leaves; bractæas ovate,

spike slender, few-flowered—P. _attenuata_, Bradbury?—JAMES.

By observations at morning and evening the magnetic variation was found

thirteen and an half degrees{143} east. In the middle of the day the

heat was excessive, and we were under the necessity of halting at a

place where no shade could be found to shelter us from the scorching

rays of the sun, except what was afforded by our tents, which were set

up for this purpose. Here we remained until 4 P. M. when we resumed our

journey. We crossed towards evening a small creek, three miles beyond

which we arrived at an old Indian camp, where we halted for the night.

We had not been long here before a tremendous storm of wind assailed

our tents with such violence, that it was only by stationing ourselves

outside, and holding the margin to the ground, that we were able to

keep them standing.

Two of the hunters who had been sent out during the afternoon, returned

to camp late in the evening, bringing in a buck antelope, a highly

acceptable acquisition to us, as we had been for some time restricted

to short commons. The flesh we found palatable, being very similar in

every respect to that of the common deer.

We had proceeded but a few miles from our camp, on the following

morning, when we perceived a number of antelopes, at a little distance

in the prairie. Being on the windward side of the party, they were not

able, by their sense of smelling, to inform themselves of the nature of

the danger which was approaching. One of them, leaving his companions,

came so near our line as to be within the reach of a rifle ball, and

was killed by Lieutenant Swift.

The antelope possesses an unconquerable inquisitiveness, of which

the hunters often take advantage, to compass the destruction of the

animal. The attempt to approach immediately towards them in the open

plain, where they are always found, rarely proves successful. Instead

of this, the hunter, getting as near the animal as is practicable,

without exciting alarm, conceals himself by lying down, then fixing

a handkerchief or cap upon the end of his {144} ramrod, continues to

wave it, still remaining concealed. The animal, after a long contest

between curiosity and fear, at length approaches near enough to become

a sacrifice to the former.[96]

[96] See Bradbury, p. 113.—JAMES.

_Comment by Ed._ See reprint in volume v of our series, p. 123.

In the afternoon a single bison was seen at the distance of several

miles, being the second since we had left the Pawnee villages, which

were now about a hundred miles distant, and we were beginning to fear

that the representations of the Indians, in relation to the difficulty

of procuring game to subsist so large a party as ours, would prove

true. We found, however, that every part of the country, which we

had recently passed, had, at no distant period, been occupied by

innumerable herds of bisons. Their tracks and dung were still to be

seen in vast numbers; and the surface of the ground was strewed with

skulls and skeletons, which were yet undecayed.

At 4 o'clock P. M. we arrived at an old Indian encampment, opposite an

island, on which was some wood, and perceiving that none would be met

with for many miles a-head, we determined to halt here for the night.

The 18th, being Sunday, we remained in camp. This indulgence was not

only highly acceptable to the soldiers and men who accompanied us, they

being much harassed and fatigued by their exertions during the week,

but was necessary for our horses, which, not being in good condition

when we left the Missouri, were perceptibly failing under the laborious

services they were made to perform. At our nightly encampments we found

it necessary to confine them, as we had not always a plentiful supply

of grass in the immediate vicinity of our camp, and if left at large

they would wander in search of better pasture, and occasion us great

trouble to collect them again in the morning. Accordingly, long ropes

had been provided, {145} which were carried constantly on the necks

of the horses, and by these they were made fast during the night to

stakes driven into the ground. After having eaten all the grass within

his reach, the horse was removed to another place, and this was done

several times during the night, by a guard kept constantly on duty,

both for the performance of this service, and also to give timely

notice in case of the approach of Indians to the camp. Notwithstanding

this care, on our part, our horses were sometimes but poorly fed,

as we were often compelled to encamp in places where little grass

was to be found. When we remained in camp during the day, they were

suffered to range more at liberty, a watch being kept out to prevent

their wandering too great a distance. Notwithstanding the sabbath was

devoted to the refreshment of our horses, and the relaxation of the

men who accompanied us, some attention was given to the great objects

of the expedition. Astronomical observations for the correction of our

time-piece, and for other purposes, were made. At Engineer Cantonment

we had furnished ourselves with portfolios of paper, to receive

specimens of such plants as we might collect; but we found that the

precautions which had been used to protect these from the weather had

been insufficient, some of our collections being in part wet, and

others having been made during the heavy rains, which fell before we

reached the Pawnee villages, required much attention. The sabbath

also afforded us an opportunity to devote a little attention to the

important objects of personal cleanliness and comfort. The plain about

our encampment was strewed with the bones of the bison, and other

animals; and among the rest we distinguished some of men. We picked up

a number of human skulls, one of which we thought it no sacrilege to

compliment with a place upon one of our pack-horses. Our guides could

give us no satisfactory information of the time and manner in which

the several persons, {146} to whom these bones formerly belonged, had

been compelled to lay them down in this place; it is certain, however,

that at no very distant period, a battle had been fought, or a massacre

committed, on this spot.

We had now arrived at a point about two hundred miles distant from the

confluence of the Platte and Missouri, yet the character of the former

river was but little changed. It was still from one to three miles in

breadth, containing numerous islands, covered with a scanty growth of

cotton-wood willows, the amorpha fruticosa, and other shrubs.

{147} CHAPTER VIII {VI}

The Platte—Desert Plains—Mirage—Arrival at the Rocky Mountains.

THE Platte, called by the Otoes Ne-braska, (Flat river, or water,)

is, as its name imports, almost uniformly broad and shoal. It is

fordable at almost any place, except when swollen by freshets, which

occur in the spring season, from the melting of snow, and occasionally

during the other portions of the year, from excessive rain. Its bed is

composed almost exclusively of sand, forming innumerable bars, which

are continually changing their position, and moving downward, till at

length they are discharged into the Missouri, and swept away to the

ocean by that rapid and turbulent river.

The range of the Platte, from extreme low to extreme high water is very

inconsiderable, manifestly not exceeding six or eight feet. This is

about the usual height of its banks above the surface of the sand which

forms its bed. The banks are sometimes overflowed, but evidently to no

great extent. The rapidity of the current, and the great width of the

bed of the river, preclude the possibility of any extensive inundation

of the surrounding country. The bottom lands of the river rise by an

imperceptible ascent on each side, extending laterally to a distance

of from two to ten miles, where they are terminated by low ranges of

gravelly hills, running parallel to the general direction of the river.

Beyond these the surface is an undulating plain, having an elevation of

from fifty to one hundred feet, and presenting the aspect of hopeless

and irreclaimable sterility.

The Missouri, in compliance with the usage of boatmen, hunters, &c.,

has been usually considered under two divisions; the lower extending

from the {148} Mississippi to the confluence of the Platte, and the

upper, comprehending all above that point. As might be expected, the

influx of so large and so peculiar a river as the Platte, gives a new

character to the Missouri below. It is more rapid, more difficult of

navigation, and the water more turbid than above.

Among other plants observed about our encampment, was the wild

liquorice, (glycyrhiza lepidota, N.) which is believed to be the plant

mentioned by Sir A. Mackenzie,[97] which is used as food by the savages

of the north-west. The root is large and long, spreading horizontally

to a great distance. In taste it bears a very slight resemblance to

the liquorice of the shops, but is bitter and nauseous. The leaves are

frequently covered with a viscid exudation.

[97] For sketch of Sir Alexander Mackenzie, see Franchère's

_Narrative_, in our volume vi, note 4.—ED.

We were prevented from continuing our astronomical observations, in the

afternoon, the weather becoming cloudy, and at evening a thunder-storm

commenced, which continued with short intermissions during the night.

The lightning exhibited an incessant glare, and peals of thunder which

seemed to shake the earth to its centre, followed each other in rapid

succession.

On Monday the 19th, we moved on, and ascending the Platte about thirty

miles, arrived in the evening at a place where the hills on the north

side close in, quite to the bed of the river. On both sides they

became more broken and elevated, and on the north, they approached

so near to the bed of the Platte, that we were under the necessity of

travelling across them. We were glad, however, of any change of scene.

The monotony of a vast unbroken plain, like that in which we had now

travelled nearly one hundred and fifty miles, is little less tiresome

to the eye, and fatiguing to the spirit, than the dreary solitude of

the ocean.[98]

[98] The Sand Hills begin at about the hundredth meridian, which

crosses the Platte in western Dawson County.—ED.

With this change of the surface, some change is observed in the

vegetable products of the soil. Here {149} we first saw a new species

of prickly poppy,[99] with a spreading white flower, as large as that

of the common poppy of the gardens. The aspect of this plant is very

similar to that of the common poppy, except that the leaves are covered

with innumerable large and strong prickles. When wounded it exudes a

thick yellowish sap, intensely bitter to the taste. On the summits

of some of the dry sandy ridges, we saw a few of the plants called

Adam's needles, (yucca angustifolia) thriving with an appearance of

luxuriance and verdure, in a soil which bids defiance to almost every

other species of vegetation. Nature has, however, fitted the yucca for

the ungenial soil it is destined to occupy. The plant consists of a

large tuft of rigid spear-pointed leaves, placed immediately upon the

root, and sending up in the flowering season, a stalk bearing a cluster

of lilliaceous flowers as large as those of the common tulip of the

gardens. The root bears more resemblance to the trunk of a tree, than

to the roots of ordinary plants. It is two or three inches in diameter,

descending undivided to a great depth below the surface, where it is

impossible the moisture of the earth should ever be exhausted, and

there terminates in numerous spreading branches. In some instances,

the sand is blown from about the root, leaving several feet of it

exposed, and supporting the dense leafy head, at some distance from the

surface.[100]

[99] Argemone alba, a large plant, very distinct from A.

mexicana.—JAMES.

[100] Other plants found here, were the great sunflower Helianthus

_giganteus_, Asclepias _obtusifolia_, Ph., A. _viridiflora_, Ph.,

A. _syriaca_, and A. _incarnata_, Amorpha _canescens_, N., Erigeron

_pumilum_, N., A. Veronica approaching V. _deccabunga_ Scuttellaria

_galericulata_, Rumex _venosus_, N., and several which are believed to

be undescribed.—JAMES.

Several bisons and other game, had been seen in the course of the

day, but nothing taken. As our provisions were now exhausted, it was

resolved to remain encamped where we were, while parties were sent out

in different directions to hunt.[101]

[101] In rain water puddles, we remarked a new species of Branchiopode

belonging to the genus Apus; small crustaceous animals, which exhibit

a miniature resemblance to the King or Horse-shoe Crab, (Himulus

polyphemus,) of our sea coast, but which are furnished with about

sixty pairs of feet, and swim upon their back. The basins of water,

which contained them, had been very much diminished by evaporation

and infiltration, and were now crowded to excess, principally with

the apus, great numbers of which were dying upon the surrounding mud,

whence the water had receded. This species is distinguished from the

_productus_ of Bosc, and _montagui_ of Leach, by not having the dorsal

carina prolonged in a point behind; and from _cancriformis_, by the

greater proportional width of the thorax, and more obtuse emargination

behind. The length of the thorax along the middle, is three-tenths of

an inch, and its greatest breadth somewhat more. It may be named _Apus

obtusus_.

A very large species of Cypris, also inhabits these small rainwater

pools in great numbers, of which the valves are more than one-fifth of

an inch in length.—JAMES.

Being now at a place where, as our guide informed us, the Pawnees

often cross the Platte, and as it was our intention to ascend on the

other side of the river, Major Long rode across to ascertain the

practicability {150} of fording; but the summer freshet being now

at its height, it was found the river could not be crossed without

swimming, and the design was relinquished. Six of our party, including

the hunters, were sent out in pursuit of game.

At camp, observations were taken for ascertaining longitude and other

purposes. At evening, Mr. Peale returned, having killed an antelope at

the distance of ten miles from the camp, and brought it within about

four, where being fatigued and hungry, he had made a fire, cooked

and ate part of the animal, and left the remainder, suspending a

handkerchief near it, to protect it from the wolves. Soon afterwards

others returned, and when all were collected, it appeared there had

been killed one bison, two antelopes, and a hare, all at a distance

from camp. Horses were accordingly sent out to bring in the meat, a

part of which we attempted to dry during the night, by cutting it in

thin pieces and exposing it over a slow fire, but a storm of wind and

rain, which continued greater part of the night, prevented our success

in this attempt.

21st. The storm continued throughout the night, and the following day

was cold, with a heavy mist from the south-east.

After travelling this day our customary distance, which was about

twenty-five miles, we were compelled to halt at a place where we could

find no poles to set up our tents. We were fortunate in finding part of

a tree which had drifted down the Platte, and which sufficed to make

a fire for the cooking of our supper. An Indian dog, who had made his

appearance at the encampment on the preceding day, had followed us thus

far, but kept aloof, not allowing us to come within one or two hundred

yards of him.

On the following morning, six miles from our camp, we arrived at the

confluence of the north and south fork of the Platte. We had halted

here, and were making preparations to examine the north fork, with a

view of crossing it, when we saw two elk plunge into the river a little

above us on the same {151} side. Perceiving it was their design to

cross the river, we watched them until they arrived on the other side,

which they did without swimming. We accordingly chose the same place

they had taken, and putting a part of our baggage in a skin canoe,

waded across, leading our horses, and arrived safely on the other side;

no accident having happened, except the wetting of such of our baggage

as was left on the horses.

The north fork at its confluence is about eight hundred yards wide, is

shoal and rapid like the Platte, and has a sandy bed. We were informed

by our guide, who had been repeatedly to its sources, that it rises

within the Rocky Mountains, about one hundred and twenty miles north of

the sources of the Platte.

It is probably the river which was mistaken by Captain Pike for the

Yellow-stone, and has been laid down as such on his map, whence the

mistake has been copied into several others. It has its source in

numerous small streams, which descend from the hill surrounding a

circumscribed valley within the mountains, called the Bull-pen. This

basin is surrounded by high and rugged mountains, except at the place

where the north fork passes into the plains. On each side of this

strait, or pass, are high and abrupt rocky promontories, which confine

the river to a narrow channel. The diameter of the circumscribed

valley, called the Bull-pen, is one day's travel, about twenty

miles.[102] The upper branches of the north fork have some timber,

mostly cotton-wood and willow, and abound in beaver.[103]

[102] North Platte River rises in Laramie County, Colorado, in the high

valley called North Park, enclosed by the Park Range and the Medicine

Bow Mountains. It flows north to Natrona County, in central Wyoming,

and thence turns to the southeast.—ED.

[103] _Castor fiber._—Some of the European naturalists appear to

be in doubt, whether or not the beavers of Europe are of the same

species with ours, from the circumstance of the former not erecting

habitations for themselves, thus appearing to differ at least in habit,

from the North American, (which are usually but improperly called,

Canada beaver, as they are not confined to Canada, but are found far

south in the United States, and east to the confluence of the Ohio

and Mississippi,) but it is possible, that the aboriginal manners

of the European beavers, corresponded with those of ours, and that

necessity, resulting from the population of the country by civilized

man, compelled them to resort to a different mode of life, to escape

the certain destruction, with which the great demand for their fur

threatened them. But as the European beaver is smaller than ours, other

naturalists have regarded it as a distinct species. In those districts

of country of North America, from which they have not yet been

exterminated, and which are populated by the whites, as particularly on

the Mississippi, above the Ohio, and below St. Louis, we have not heard

that they build, but it is more than probable, that, as in Europe,

they change their mode of life, in order to be the more effectually

concealed from view. From subsequent observation, we have learned, that

the beaver does not attempt to dam large streams, perceiving at once

the impracticability of the undertaking: his object in damming a stream

appears to be, to preserve a constancy in the height of the water, in

order that the entrance to his habitation in the bank may be concealed,

and that the curious conical edifice may not be destroyed by a sudden

flood, or too much exposed by a deficiency of water.

An Indian informed us, that in his time, he has caught three specimens

of this animal, that had each a large white spot on the breast.

Singular accounts of this animal are given us by the hunters, but which

we had no opportunity of verifying.

Three beavers were seen cutting down a large cotton-wood tree; when

they had made considerable progress, one of them retired to a short

distance, and took his station in the water, looking steadfastly at

the top of the tree. As soon as he perceived the top begin to move

towards its fall, he gave notice of the danger to his companions, who

were still at work, gnawing at its base, by slapping his tail upon the

surface of the water, and they immediately ran from the tree out of

harm's way.

The spring beaver are much better for commerce than those of the autumn

and early winter, as the fur is longer and more dense. But the beaver

taken in the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains is almost equally good

during the year.

Mr. Frazer, a gentleman who has been several years engaged in the fur

trade, in the interior of North America, on the Columbia, and in North

California, in speaking of the beaver, mentioned a circumstance, which

we do not remember to have seen recorded. The lodges are usually so

placed, that the animals ascend the stream some distance to arrive at

the spot whence they procure their food. They make their excursions

under water, and they have, at equal distances, excavations under

the bank, called _washes_, into which they go and raise their heads

above the surface, in order to breathe, without exposing themselves

to be seen. In winter the position of these washes is ascertained, by

the hollow sound the ground returns when beaten; and the beavers are

sometimes taken, by being pursued into these holes, the entrances to

which are afterwards closed.

Otters are frequent on the Missouri. We had an opportunity of seeing on

the ice of Boyer Creek a considerable number of the tracks or paths of

otters; they were the more readily distinguishable, from there being

snow of but little depth on the ice, and they appeared as if the animal

was accustomed to slide in his movements on the ice, as there were, in

the first place, the impressions of two feet, then a long mark clear of

snow a distance of three or four feet, then the impressions of the feet

of the animal, after which the sliding mark, and so on alternately.

These paths were numerous, and passed between the bank and a situation,

where a hole had been in the ice, now frozen over.—JAMES.

From the limited information communicated to the public, on the subject

of Mr. Hunt's Expedition to the mouth of the Columbia, commenced in

the year 1811, it appears that a part of the men engaged in that

undertaking, in their return from the Pacific, crossed the Rocky

Mountains from some one of the upper branches of Lewis' river, and

falling upon the sources of the north fork of the Platte, descended

thence to the Missouri.

{152} On the 28th of June, 1812, Mr. Robert Stewart, one of the

partners of the Pacific Fur Company, with two Frenchmen, M'Clellan, and

Crooks, left the Pacific ocean with despatches for New York.

Having proceeded about seven hundred miles, they met Mr. Joseph Miller,

on his way to the mouth of the Columbia. He had been considerably to

the south and east, and had fallen in with the Black-arms, and the

Arrapahoes, who wander about the sources of the Arkansa. By the latter

of these he had been robbed, in consequence of which he was now reduced

to starvation and nakedness.

Mr. Stewart and his companions had fifteen horses, but soon afterwards

met with a band of the Crow Indians, near the Rocky Mountains, who

behaved with the most unbounded insolence, and finally stole every

horse belonging to the party.

They now found themselves on foot, with the Rocky Mountains, and a

journey of two thousand miles before them; fifteen hundred of which was

through a country wholly unknown, as their route lay considerably to

the south of that of Lewis and Clarke.

Putting the best face upon their prospects, they pursued their journey

towards the Rocky Mountains, travelling east-south-east, until they

struck the "head waters of the great river Platte," which they followed

to its mouth, having spent the winter upon it, six hundred miles from

the Missouri.[104]

[104] The narrative from which this sketch is taken, was published in

the Missouri Gazette.—JAMES.

_Comment by Ed._ The article in the _Missouri Gazette_ is reprinted in

Bradbury's _Travels_, volume v of our series, Appendix III, p. 224.

An account of Hunt's expedition and sketches of the partners of the

Pacific Fur Company, mentioned in the text, will be found in the same

volume, notes 2, 3, 72, 119.

The confluence of the north fork and the Platte is, according to our

estimate of distances, one hundred and forty-nine miles by our courses,

from the Pawnee Loup village.

Some of the upper branches of the Wolf river head about thirty miles to

the north of this point.

After fording the north fork, we crossed a narrow point of low prairie

to the Platte, where, as it was {153} now near night, we resolved to

encamp, and attempt the passage of the river on the following day.[105]

[105] The town of North Platte is now situated on this tongue of land

between the forks of the Platte; and recently a family named Peale,

relatives of T. R. Peale of Long's party, were among the residents.—ED.

Our view of the opposite margin of the Platte, during this day's march,

had been intercepted by an elevated swell of the surface, which

extended along, parallel to the river, that we were now approaching.

Immediately upon surmounting this undulation we saw before us, upon

the broad expanse of the left margin of the river, immense herds of

bisons, grazing in undisturbed possession, and obscuring, with the

density of their numbers, the verdant plain; to the right and left,

as far as the eye was permitted to rove, the crowd seemed hardly to

diminish, and it would be no exaggeration to say, that at least ten

thousand here burst on our sight in the instant. Small columns of dust

were occasionally wafted by the wind from bulls that were pawing the

earth, and rolling; the interest of action was also communicated to the

scene, by the unwieldy playfulness of some individuals, that the eye

would occasionally rest upon, their real or affected combats, or by the

slow or rapid progress of others to and from their watering places. On

the distant bluffs, individuals were constantly disappearing, whilst

others were presenting themselves to our view, until, as the dusk of

the evening increased, their massive forms, thus elevated above the

line of other objects, were but dimly defined on the skies. We retired

to our evening fare, highly gratified with the novel spectacle we had

witnessed, and with the most sanguine expectations of the future.

In the morning we again sought the living picture, but upon all the

plain which last evening was so teeming with noble animals, not one

remained. We forded the Platte with less delay and difficulty than we

had encountered in crossing the north fork.

It is about nine hundred yards wide, and very rapid, but so shoal that

we found it unnecessary to dismount from our horses, or to unpack the

mules. {154} We found the plains on the south side of the Platte more

closely depastured than those we had before seen. The grass is fine and

short, forming a dense and matted turf, as in the oldest pastures.

Meeting with wood at about three o'clock P. M., we resolved to encamp.

On the two preceding evenings, we had found it difficult to collect as

much wood as sufficed to kindle a fire, which was afterwards kept up

with the dung of the bison, though not without some difficulty, as the

weather was rainy.

The dung of the bison is used as fuel in many parts of the woodless

country southwest of the Missouri, by the Indians, and by hunters, who

often encamp where no wood is to be found. We learn from Sonnini[106]

and others, that the excrement of the camel, mixed with chopped straw

and afterwards dried, is similarly used in the woodless parts of Egypt.

[106] Charles Nicholas Sigisbert Sonnini de Manoncourt was a French

naturalist and traveller, who visited Egypt, Greece, and Asia Minor

during the years 1777-80. He lost his fortune by the Revolution, and

spent the remainder of his life in writing and editing scientific

works. The book here referred to is _Voyage dans la haute et dans le

basse Egypt_ (Paris, 3 vols., 1799). It was twice translated into

English.—ED.

The hills on the south side of the Platte, above the confluence of the

north fork, become more abrupt and elevated, approaching in character

those of the Missouri which are destitute of stone. There is here the

same transcript of Alpine scenery, in miniature, which constitutes so

striking a feature in the Missouri landscape, when viewed from the

river bottom.

We had no sooner crossed the Platte, than our attention was arrested by

the beautiful white primrose (œnothera pinnatifida, N.) with its long

and slender corolla reclining upon the grass. The flower, which is near

two inches long, constitutes about one-half of the entire length of

the plant.[107]

[107] Considerable additions were made, about the forks of the Platte,

to our collections of plants. We found here, among others, the

Pentstemon cristatum, N. Coronopus dydima, Ph. Evolvulus Nuttallianus,

Roemer, and Shultz. Orobus dispar, Cleome tryphilla, Petalostemon

candidum, Ph., and P. violaceum. Aristida pallens, N. two species of a

genus approximating to Hoitzia, several species of Astragalus, and many

others.—JAMES.

The valley of the Platte, above the forks, is much narrower, and a

little more irregular in direction than below, and is frequently

interrupted by small hills running in towards the river. On ascending

these hills, we found them of a coarse sand, and containing more gravel

and small pebbles than below. Among the gravel stones, small fragments

of flesh-coloured {155} felspar are distinguished. About the summits of

the hills we saw some detached pieces of fine carnelion, with agates

and calcedony.

We had often examined, with some anxiety, the turbid waters of the

Platte, hoping thereby to gain information respecting the predominating

rock formations of the mountainous district, from which that river

descends.

It had been a received opinion among some of the geologists of the

United States, that the Rocky Mountains were not of primitive rocks; we

had hitherto observed nothing which could either confirm or invalidate

this opinion.

The great alluvial formation, which occupies the country on both

sides of the lower portion of the river Platte, is an almost unmixed

siliceous sand, in no manner distinguishable from the _débris_ of the

sandstones of transition mountains. Near the forks of the Platte, we

first observed that the waters of that river bring down, among other

matters, numerous small scales of mica. This also is a constituent of

the sandstones of the lower secondary or transition formations. The

fragments of unmixed and crystalline felspar, which now began to be of

frequent occurrence, were considered as the first convincing evidence

of the primitive character of the Rocky Mountains. These fragments

of felspar, we believed, could have been derived from no other than

primitive rocks.

During all the day on the 23d we travelled along the south side of the

Platte, our course inclining something more towards the south-west than

heretofore.

Intermixed in the narrow fringe of timber, which marks the course of

the river, are very numerous trees, killed by the action of the beaver

or by the effects of old age; their decorticated and bleached trunks

and limbs strongly contrasting with the surrounding objects, many of

them rendered doubly {156} interesting by affording a support to the

nests of the bald eagle, elevated like a beacon in the horizon of the

traveller.

Large herds of bisons were seen in every direction; but as we had

already killed a deer, and were supplied with meat enough for the

day, none of the party were allowed to go in pursuit of them. Prickly

pears became more and more abundant as we ascended the river; and here

they occurred in such extensive patches as considerably to retard our

progress, it being wholly impracticable to urge our horses across them.

The cactus ferox is the most common, and, indeed, the only species

which is of frequent occurrence. It has been stated by a traveller

to the Upper Missouri,[108] that the antelope, which inhabits the

extensive plains of that river and its tributaries, finds means to

make this plant, notwithstanding its terrific armature of thorns,

subservient to its necessities, "by cutting it up with his hoofs."

We were able to discover no confirmation of this statement; it may,

however, be applicable to some plains more arid and sterile than any we

have passed, where the antelopes may be driven by necessity to the use

of this hard expedient.

[108] Nuttall's Genera of North American Plants, vol. i. p. 296.—JAMES.

On the following day we saw immense herds of bisons, blackening the

whole surface of the country through which we passed. At this time they

were in their summer coat. From the shoulders backwards, all the hinder

parts of the animal are covered with a growth of very short and fine

hair, as smooth and soft to the touch as a piece of velvet. The tail is

very short, and tufted at the end, and its services, as a fly-brush,

are confined to a very limited surface.

The fore parts of the body are covered with long shaggy hair,

descending in a tuft behind the knee, in a distinct beard beneath the

lower jaw, rising in a dense mass on the top of his head as high as

the tip of the horns, matted and curled on his front so {157} thickly

as to deaden the force of the rifle-ball, which rebounds from the

forehead, or lodges in the hair, causing the animal only to shake his

head as he bounds heavily onward. The head is so large and ponderous,

in proportion to the size of the body, that the supporting muscles,

which greatly enlarge the neck, form over the shoulders, where they are

imbedded on each side of elongated vertebral processes, distinguished

by the name of hump ribs, a very considerable elevation called the

hump, which is of an oblong form, diminishing in height as it recedes,

so as to give considerable obliquity to the line of the back. The

eye is small, black, and piercing; the horns, which are black, and

remarkably robust at base, curve outward and upward, tapering rapidly

to the tip. The profile of the face is somewhat convexly curved;

and the superior lip, on each side, papillous within, is dilated and

extended downward, so as to give a very oblique appearance to the

lateral rictus, or gape of the mouth, considerably resembling in this

respect the ancient architectural bas-reliefs representing the heads of

the ox. The physiognomy is menacing and ferocious, and the whole aspect

of the animal is sufficiently formidable to influence the spectator

who is, for the first time, placed near him in his native wilds, with

certain feelings which indicate the propriety of immediate attention to

personal safety.

The bison cow bears the same relation, as to appearance, to the bull,

that the domestic cow does to her mate; she is smaller, with much less

hair on the anterior part of her body, and though she has a conspicuous

beard, yet this appendage is comparatively short; her horns also are

much less robust, and not partially concealed by hair.

The dun colour prevails on the coat of the bison; but the long hair

of the anterior part of the body, with the exception of the head, is

more or less tinged with yellowish or rust colour. The uniformity of

{158} colour, however, amongst these animals is so steadfast, that any

considerable deviation from the ordinary standard is regarded by the

natives as effected under the immediate influence of the Divinity.

A trader of the Missouri informed us that he had seen a grayish-white

bison, and that another, a yearling calf, was distinguished by several

white spots on the side, and by a white frontal mark and white fore

feet.

Mr. J. Dougherty saw in an Indian hut a bison head, very well prepared,

which had a white star on the front; the owner valued it highly,

calling it his great medicine; he could not be tempted to part with it;

"for," said he, "the herds come every season into the vicinity to seek

their white-faced companion."

They are the skins of the cows almost exclusively that are used in

commerce; those of the bulls being so large, heavy, and difficult to

prepare, that this is comparatively seldom attempted.

That the bison formerly ranged over the Atlantic states there can

be no doubt; and Lawson informs us that even in his time some were

killed in Virginia; and Cumming, in his Sketches of a Tour to the

Western Country, informs us that, "long after the country (Kentucky)

began to be generally settled, and ceased to be a hunting ground by

the Indians," the "buffaloes, bears, and deer, were so plenty in the

country that little or no bread was used," and "the facility of gaining

them prevented the progress of agriculture, until the poor innocent

buffaloes were completely extirpated, and the other wild animals much

thinned."[109] This process of extirpation has not since been relaxed,

and the bison is now driven beyond the lakes, the Illinois, and

southern portion of the Mississippi rivers, their range extending from

the country west of Hudson's bay to the northern provinces of Mexico.

They have not yet crossed the entire breadth of the mountains at the

{159} head of the Missouri, though they penetrate, in some parts, far

within that range, to the most accessible fertile valleys, particularly

the valley of Lewis' river. It was there that Mr. Henry and his party

of hunters wintered, and subsisted chiefly upon the flesh of these

animals, which they saw in considerable herds; but the Indians affirmed

that it was unusual for the bisons to visit that neighbourhood.[110]

[109] John Lawson, a Scotchman, came to North Carolina about 1700, as

surveyor-general; he was killed by the Indians in 1712. His book, _A

New Voyage to Carolina_, etc., originally published at London in 1709,

ran through several editions, and was reprinted at Raleigh in 1860. "He

[the bison] seldom appears amongst the _English_ Inhabitants ... yet

I have known some kill'd on the Hilly Part of _Cape-Fair_-River, they

passing the Ledges of vast Mountains ... before they can come near us."

[In margin.] "_Two killed one year in_ Virginia _at_ Appamaticks." (See

edition of 1714, in Stevens's _Collection of Voyages_, p. 115.)

Cuming's _Tour_ is reprinted as volume iv of our series. See p. 177 for

passage quoted.—ED.

[110] Andrew Henry was born in Fayette County, Pennsylvania, between

1773 and 1778, and died in Washington County, Missouri, in 1832. He

was one of the original incorporators of the Missouri Fur Company in

1809 and the next year built the first post established by an American

trader beyond the crest of the Rockies; this was Fort Henry, on Snake

River, probably near the present village of Egin, Fremont County,

Idaho. It was abandoned the succeeding spring, but furnished shelter

for a few days to the party under Hunt, bound overland to Astoria. (See

Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, note 2). Little is known of

Henry from 1811 to 1822; at the latter date he entered into partnership

with General W. H. Ashley (congressman from Missouri, 1831-37), and for

a time prospered in the fur-trade, but lost his fortune by becoming a

surety for others.

Lewis River was the name given by Lewis and Clark to Salmon and Snake

rivers. Fort Henry was not far from the headwaters of the former.—ED.

All the mountains which we ascended were more or less strewed with the

dung of these animals about the lower parts; a conclusive evidence that

this portion of the range had been traversed by the bisons.

The cows remain fat from July to the latter part of December. The

rutting season occurs towards the latter part of July, and continues

until the beginning of September, after which month the cows separate

from the bulls, in distinct herds, and bring forth their calves in

April. The calves seldom separate themselves from the mother under the

age of one year; and cows are often seen accompanied by the calves of

three seasons.

The meat of the bison has often been compared with that of the domestic

ox, and the preference yielded to the latter, as an article of food.

This decision, however, we cannot, from our experience confirm; it

appeared to us that although of a somewhat coarser fibre, yet, after

making due allowance for the situation in which we were placed, our

appetites often increased by hunger and privation, that the flesh of

the bison is in no degree inferior in delicacy and sweetness to that

of the common ox. But that the flesh of those which we were accustomed

to eat was more agreeably sapid than that which formed a subject of

comparison to the authors alluded to, is altogether possible, as the

grass upon which they usually fed was short, firm, and nutritious,

considerably differing in its nature from the luxuriant and less solid

grass nourished by a fertile soil. It was {160} preferred by the party

to the flesh of the elk or deer, which was thrown away when it could be

substituted by the bison meat.

To the fat of the bison we conceded a decided superiority over that of

the common ox, as being richer and sweeter to the taste.