The Americans took their share in this occasion, and Greenough,--one
of the few Americans who, living in Italy, takes the pains to know
whether it is alive or dead, who penetrates beyond the cheats of
tradesmen, and the cunning of a mob corrupted by centuries of slavery,
to know the real mind, the vital blood of Italy,--took a leading part.
I am sorry to say that a large portion of my countrymen here take
the same slothful and prejudiced view as the English, and, after many
years' sojourn, betray entire ignorance of Italian literature and
Italian life beyond what is attainable in a month's passage through
the thoroughfares. However, they did show, this time, a becoming
spirit, and erected the American Eagle where its cry ought to be heard
from afar. Crawford, here in Rome, has had the just feeling to join
the Guard, and it is a real sacrifice for an artist to spend time
on the exercises; but it well becomes the sculptor of Orpheus. In
reference to what I have said of many Americans in Italy, I will only
add that they talk about the corrupt and degenerate state of Italy as
they do about that of our slaves at home. They come ready trained to
that mode of reasoning which affirms, that, because men are degraded
by bad institutions, they are not fit for better. I will only add
some words upon the happy augury I draw from the wise docility of
the people. With what readiness they listened to wise counsel and the
hopes of the Pope that they would give no advantage to his enemies at
a time when they were so fevered by the knowledge that conspiracy
was at work in their midst! That was a time of trial. On all these
occasions of popular excitement their conduct is like music, in such
order, and with such union of the melody of feeling with discretion
where to stop; but what is wonderful is that they acted in the same
manner on that difficult occasion. The influence of the Pope here is
without bounds; he can always calm the crowd at once. But in Tuscany,
where they have no such one idol, they listened in the same way on a
very trying occasion. The first announcement of the regulation for the
Tuscan National Guard terribly disappointed the people. They felt that
the Grand Duke, after suffering them to demonstrate such trust and joy
on this feast of the 12th, did not really trust, on his side; that he
meant to limit them all he could; they felt baffled, cheated; hence
young men in anger tore down at once the symbols of satisfaction and
respect; but the leading men went among the people, begged them to be
calm, and wait till a deputation had seen the Grand Duke. The people
listened at once to men who, they were sure, had at heart their best
good--waited; the Grand Duke became convinced, and all ended without
disturbance. If the people continue to act thus, their hopes cannot be
baffled.
The American in Europe would fain encourage the hearts of these
long-oppressed nations, now daring to hope for a new era, by reciting
triumphant testimony from the experience of his own country. But we
must stammer and blush when we speak of many things. I take pride
here, that I may really say the liberty of the press works well, and
that checks and balances naturally evolve from it, which suffice to
its government. I may say, that the minds of our people are alert,
and that talent has a free chance to rise. It is much. But dare I
say, that political ambition is not as darkly sullied as in other
countries? Dare I say, that men of most influence in political life
are those who represent most virtue, or even intellectual power? Can
I say, our social laws are generally better, or show a nobler insight
into the wants of man and woman? I do indeed say what I believe, that
voluntary association for improvement in these particulars will be the
grand means for my nation to grow, and give a nobler harmony to the
coming age. Then there is this cancer of slavery, and this wicked war
that has grown out of it. How dare I speak of these things here? I
listen to the same arguments against the emancipation of Italy, that
are used against the emancipation of our blacks; the same arguments in
favor of the spoliation of Poland, as for the conquest of Mexico.
How it pleases me here to think of the Abolitionists! I could never
endure to be with them at home; they were so tedious, often so narrow,
always so rabid and exaggerated in their tone. But, after all, they
had a high motive, something eternal in their desire and life; and, if
it was not the only thing worth thinking of, it was really something
worth living and dying for, to free a great nation from such a blot,
such a plague. God strengthen them, and make them wise to achieve
their purpose!
I please myself, too, with remembering some ardent souls among the
American youth, who, I trust, will yet expand and help to give soul to
the huge, over-fed, too-hastily-grown-up body. May they be constant!
"Were man but constant, he were perfect." It is to the youth that Hope
addresses itself. But I dare not expect too much of them. I am not
very old; yet of those who, in life's morning, I saw touched by
the light of a high hope, many have seceded. Some have become
voluptuaries; some mere family men, who think it is quite life enough
to win bread for half a dozen people, and treat them decently; others
are lost through indolence and vacillation. Yet some remain constant.
"I have witnessed many a shipwreck, yet still beat noble hearts."
* * * * *
_Rome, January, 1848_.--As one becomes domesticated here, ancient and
modern Rome, at first so jumbled together, begin to separate. You see
where objects and limits anciently were. When this happens, one feels
first truly at ease in Rome. Then the old kings, the consuls, the
tribunes, the emperors, the warriors of eagle sight and remorseless
beak, return for us, and the toga-clad procession finds room to sweep
across the scene; the seven hills tower, the innumerable temples
glitter, and the Via Sacra swarms with triumphal life once more.
* * * * *
_Rome, Jan. 12, 1848._--In Rome, here, the new Council is inaugurated,
and the elections have given tolerable satisfaction. Twenty-four
carriages had been lent by the princes and nobles, at the request of
the city, to convey the councillors. Each deputy was followed by
his target and banner. In the evening, there was a ball given at the
Argentine. Lord Minto was there, Prince Corsini, now senator, the
Torlonias, in uniform of the Civic Guard, Princess Torlonia, in a
sash of their colors given her by the Civic Guard, which she waved in
answer to their greetings. But the beautiful show of the evening was
the _Trasteverini_ dancing the _Saltarello_ in their most beautiful
costume. I saw them thus to much greater advantage than ever before.
Several were nobly handsome, and danced admirably. The _saltarello_
enchants me; in this is really the Italian wine, the Italian sun.
The Pope, in receiving the councillors, made a speech, intimating that
he meant only to improve, not to _reform_ and should keep things safe
locked with the keys of St. Peter.
I was happy the first two months of my stay here, seeing all the great
things at my leisure. But now, after a month of continuous rain, Rome
is no more Rome. The atmosphere is far worse than that of Paris. It
is impossible to walk in the thick mud. The ruins, and other great
objects, always solemn, appear terribly gloomy, steeped in black rain
and cloud; and my apartment, in a street of high houses, is dark all
day. The bad weather may continue all this month and all next. If I
could use the time for work, I should not care; but this climate makes
me so ill, I can do but little.