_Rome, Dec_. 20, 1847.--I don't know whether you take an interest in
the present state of things in Italy, but you would if you were
here. It is a fine time to see the people. As to the Pope, it is as
difficult here as elsewhere to put new wine into old bottles, and
there is something false as well as ludicrous in the spectacle of the
people first driving their princes to do a little justice, and then
_evviva-ing_ them at such a rate. This does not apply to the Pope; he
is a real great heart, a generous man. The love for him is genuine,
and I like to be within its influence. It was his heart that gave the
impulse, and this people has shown, to the shame of English and other
prejudice, how unspoiled they were at the core, how open, nay, how
wondrous swift to answer a generous appeal!
They are also gaining some education by the present freedom of the
press and of discussion. I should like to write a letter for England,
giving my view of the present position of things here.
* * * * *
_Rome, October_ 18, 1847.--In the spring, when I came to Rome, the
people were in the intoxication of joy at the first serious measures
of reform taken by the Pope. I saw with pleasure their childlike joy
and trust. Still doubts were always present whether this joy was not
premature. From the people themselves the help must come, and not
from the princes. Rome, to resume her glory, must cease to be an
ecclesiastical capital. Whilst I sympathized with the warm love of the
people, the adulation of leading writers, who were willing to take
all from the prince of the Church as a gift and a bounty, instead
of steadily implying that it was the right of the people, was very
repulsive to me. Passing into Tuscany, I found the liberty of the
press just established. The Grand Duke, a well-intentioned, though
dull, man, had dared to declare himself an Italian prince. I arrived
in Florence too late for the great fête of the 12th September,
in honor of the grant of the National Guard, but the day was made
memorable by the most generous feeling on all sides. Some days before
were passed by reconciling all strifes, composing all differences
between cities, districts, and individuals. On that day they all
embraced in sign of this; exchanged banners as a token that they would
fight for one another.