Chapter 3.

Roquefort cheese dressing, bottled

_U.S.A._

Made with genuine imported Roquefort, but with cottonseed oil instead

of olive, plain instead of wine vinegar, sugar, salt, paprika,

mustard, flour and spice oil.

Roquefort de Corse

_Corsica, France_

This Corsican imitation is blue-colored and correctly made of sheep

milk, but lacks the chalk caves of Auvergne for ripening.

Roquefort de Tournemire

_France_

Another Blue cheese of sheep milk from Languedoc, using the royal

Roquefort name.

Rougerets, les

_Lyonnais, France_

A typical small goat cheese from Forez, in a section where practically

every variety is made with goat milk.

Rouennais

_France_

This specialty, named after its city, Rouen, is a winter cheese, eaten

from October to May.

Round Dutch

_Holland_

An early name for Edam.

Rouy, le

_Normandy, France_

From the greatest of the cheese provinces, Normandy.

Royal Brabant

_Belgium_

Whole milk. Small, Limburger type.

Royal Sentry

_Denmark_

Processed Swiss made in Denmark and shipped to Americans who haven't

yet learned that a European imitation can be as bad as an American

one. This particular pasteurized process-cheese spread puts its

ingredients in finer type than any accident insurance policy: Samsoe

(Danish Swiss) cheese, cream, water, non-fat dry milk solids, cheese

whey solids and disodium phosphate.

Ruffec, Fromage de

_Saintonge, France_

Fresh; goat.

Runesten

_Denmark and U.S.A._

Similar to Herrgårdsost. Small eyes. "Wheel" weighs about three

pounds. Wrapped in red transparent film.

Rush Cream Cheese

_England and France_

Not named from the rush in which many of our cheeses are made, but

from the rush mats and nets some fresh cream cheeses are wrapped and

sewed up in to ripen. According to an old English recipe the curds are

collected with an ordinary fish-slice and placed in a rush shape,

covered with a cloth when filled. Lay a half-pound weight in a saucer

and set this on top of the strained curd for a few hours, and then

increase the weight by about a half pound. Change the cloths daily

until the cheese looks mellow, then put into the rush shape with the

fish slice. The formula in use in France, where willow heart-shape

baskets are sold for making this cheese, is as follows: Add one cup

new warm milk to two cups freshly-skimmed cream. Dissolve in this one

teaspoon of fine sugar and one tablespoon common rennet or thirty

drops of Hauser's extract of rennet. Let it remain in a warm place

until curd sets. Rush and straw mats are easily made by cutting the

straw into lengths and stringing them with a needle and thread. The

mats or baskets should not be used a second time.

S

Saaland Pfarr, or Prestost

_Sweden_

Firm; sharp; biting; unique of its kind because it is made with

whiskey as an ingredient and the finished product is also washed with

whiskey.

Saanen

_Switzerland_

Semihard and as mellow as all good Swiss cheese. This is the finest

cheese in the greatest cheese land; an Emmentaler also known as

Hartkäse, Reibkäse and Walliskäse, it came to fame in the sixteenth

century and has always fetched an extra price for its quality and age.

It is cooked much dryer in the making, so it takes longer to ripen and

then keeps longer than any other. It weighs only ten to twenty pounds

and the eyes are small and scarce. The average period needed for

ripening is six years, but some take nine.

Sage, or Green cheese

_England_

This is more of a cream cheese, than a Cheddar, as Sage is in the

U.S.A. It is made by adding sage leaves and a greening to milk by the

method described in Chapter 4.

Saint-Affrique

_Guyenne, France_

This gourmetic center, hard by the celebrated town of Roquefort, lives

up to its reputation by turning out a toothsome goat cheese of local

renown.

We will not attempt to describe it further, since like most of the

host of cheeses honored with the names of Saints, it is seldom shipped

abroad.

Saint-Agathon

_Brittany, France_

Season, October to July.

Saint-Amand-Montrond

_Berry, France_

Made from goat's milk.

Saint-Benoit

_Loiret, France_

Soft Olivet type distinguished by charcoal being added to the salt

rubbed on the outside of the finished cheese. It ripens in twelve to

fifteen days in summer, and eighteen to twenty in winter. It is about

six inches in diameter.

Saint-Claude

_Franche-Comté, France_

Semihard; blue; goat; mellow; small; square; a quarter to a half

pound. The curd is kept five to six hours only before salting and is

then eaten fresh or put away to ripen.

Saint-Cyr _see_ Mont d'Or.

Saint-Didier au Mont d'Or _see_ Mont d'Or.

Saint-Florentin

_Burgundy, France_

A lusty cheese, soft but salty, in season from November to July.

Saint-Flour

_Auvergne, France_

Another seasonal specialty from this province of many cheeses.

Saint-Gelay

_Poitou, France_

Made from goat's milk.

Saint-Gervais, Pots de Creme, or Le Saint Gervais

_see_ Pots de Crème.

Saint-Heray _see_ La Mothe.

Saint-Honoré

_Nivernais, France_

A small goat cheese.

Saint-Hubert

_France_

Similar to Brie.

Saint-Ivel

_England_

Fresh dairy cream cheese containing _Lactobacillus acidophilus_.

Similar to the yogurt cheese of the U.S.A., which is made with

_Bacillus Bulgaricus._

Saint-Laurent

_Roussillon, France_

Mountain sheep cheese.

Saint-Lizier

_Béarn, France_

A white, curd cheese.

Saint-Loup, Fromage de

_Poitou and Vendée, France_

Half-goat, half-cow milk, in season February to September

Saint-Marcellin

_Dauphiné, France_

One of the very best of all goat cheeses. Three by 3/4 inches,

weighing a quarter of a pound. In season from March to December.

Sometimes sheep milk may be added, even cow's, but this is essentially

a goat cheese.

Saint-Moritz

_Switzerland_

Soft and tangy.

Saint-Nectaire, or Senecterre

_Auvergne, France_

Noted as one of the greatest of all French goat cheeses.

Saint-Olivet _see_ Chapter 3.

Saint-Pierre-Pouligny _see_ Pouligny-Saint-Pierre.

Saint-Reine _see_ Alise.

Saint-Rémy, Fromage de

_Haute-Saône, France_

Soft Pont l'Evêque type.

Saint-Stefano

_German_

Bel Paese type.

Saint-Winx

_Flanders, France_

The fromage of Saint-Winx is a traditional leader in this Belgian

border province noted for its strong, spiced dairy products.

Sainte-Anne d'Auray

_Brittany, France_

A notable Port-Salut made by Trappist monks.

Sainte-Marie

_Franche-Comté, France_

A creamy concoction worthy of its saintly name.

Sainte-Maure, le, or Fromage de Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine

_France_

Made in Touraine from May to November. Similar to Valençay.

Salamana

_Southern Europe_

Soft sheep's milk cheese stuffed into bladderlike sausage, to ripen.

It has authority and flavor when ready to spread on bread, or to mix

with cornmeal and cook into a highly cheese-flavored porridge.

Salame

_France_

Soft cream cheese stuffed into skins like salami sausages.

Salami-sausage style of packing cheese has always been common in

Italy, from Provolone down, and now--both as salami and links--it has

became extremely popular for processed and cheese foods throughout

America.

Salers, Bleu de

_France_

One of the very good French Blues.

Saligny

_Champagne, France_

White cheese made from sheep's milk.

Saloio

_Lisbon, Portugal_

An aromatic farm-made hand cheese of skim milk. Short cylinder, 1-1/2

to two inches in diameter, weighing a quarter of a pound. Made near

the capital, Lisbon, on many small farms.

Salonite

_Italy_

Favorite of Emperor Augustus a couple of thousand years ago.

Saltee

_Ireland_

Firm; highly colored; tangy; boxed in half-pound slabs. The same as

Whitethorn except for the added color. Whitethorn is as white as its

name implies.

Salt-free cheese, for diets

U.S. cottage; French fresh goat cheese; and Luxembourg Kochenkäse.

Samsö

_Denmark_

Hard; white; sharp; slightly powdery and sweetish. This is the pet

cheese of Erik Blegvad who illustrated this book.

Sandwich Nut

An American mixture of chopped nuts with Cream cheese or Neufchâtel.

Sapsago _see_ Chapter 3.

Sardegna

_Sardinia_

A Romano type made in Sardinia.

Sardinian

_Sardinia, Italy_

The typical hard grating cheese of this section of Italy.

Sardo

_Sardinia, Italy_

Hard; sharp; for table and for seasoning. Imitated in the Argentine.

There is also a Pecorino named Sardo.

Sarraz or Sarrazin

_Vaud, Switzerland_

Roquefort type.

Sassenage

_Dauphiny, France_

Semihard; bluer and stronger than Stilton. This makes a French trio of

Blues with Septmoncel and Gex, all three of which are made with the

three usual milks mixed: cow, goat and sheep. A succulent fermented

variety for which both Grenoble and Sassenage are celebrated.

Satz

_Germany_

Hard cheese made in Saxony.

Savoy, Savoie

_France_

Semisoft; mellow; tangy Port-Salut made by Trappist monks in Savoy.

Sbrinz

_Argentine_

Hard; dry; nutty; Parmesan grating type.

Scanno

_Abruzzi, Italy_

Soft as butter; sheep; burnt taste, delicious with fruits. Blackened

rind, deep yellow interior.

Scarmorze or Scamorze

_Italy_

Hard; buffalo milk; mild Provolone type. Also called Pear from being

made in that shape, oddly enough also in pairs, tied together to hang

from rafters on strings in ripening rooms or in the home kitchen. Fine

when sliced thick and fried in olive oil. A specialty around Naples.

Light-tan oiled rind, about 3-1/2 by five inches in size. Imitated in

Wisconsin and sold as Pear cheese.

Schabziger _see_ Chapter 3.

Schafkäse (Sheep Cheese)

_Germany_

Soft; part sheep milk; smooth and delightful.

Schamser, or Rheinwald

_Canton Graubünden, Switzerland_

Large skim-milker eighteen by five inches, weighing forty to forty-six

pounds.

Schlickermilch

This might be translated "milk mud." It's another name for Bloder,

sour milk "waddle" cheese.

Schlesische Sauermilchkäse

_Silesia, Poland_

Hard; sour-milker; made like hand cheese. Laid on straw-covered

shelves, dried by a stove in winter and in open latticed sheds in

summer. When very dry and hard, it is put to ripen in a cellar three

to eight weeks and washed with warm water two or three times a week.

Schlesischer Weichquarg

_Silesia, Poland_

Soft, fresh skim, sour curd, broken up and cooked at 100° for a short

time. Lightly pressed in a cloth sack twenty-four hours, then kneaded

and shaped by hand, as all hand cheeses are. Sometimes sharply

flavored with onions or caraway. Eaten fresh, before the strong hand

cheese odor develops.

Schloss, Schlosskäse, or Bismarck

_German_

This Castle cheese, also named for Bismarck and probably a favorite of

his, together with Bismarck jelly doughnuts, is an aristocratic

Limburger that served as a model for Liederkranz.

Schmierkäse

German cottage cheese that becomes

smearcase in America.

Schnitzelbank Pot _see_ Liederkranz, Chapter 4.

Schoenland

_German_

Imitation of Italian Bel Paese, also translated "beautiful land."

Schützenkäse

_Austria_

Romadur-type. Small rectangular blocks weighing less than four ounces

and wrapped in tin foil.

Shottengsied

_Alpine_

A whey cheese made and consumed locally in the Alps.

Schwarzenberger

_Hungary and Bohemia_

One part skim to two parts fresh milk. It takes two to three months to

ripen.

Schweizerkäse

_Switzerland_

German for Swiss cheese. (_See_ Emmentaler.)

Schweizerost Dansk, Danish Swiss Cheese

_Denmark_

A popular Danish imitation of Swiss Swiss cheese that is nothing

wonderful.

Select Brick _see_ Chapter 12.

Selles-sur Cher

_Berry, France_

A goat cheese, eaten from February to September.

Sénecterre

_Puy-de-Dôme, France_

Soft, whole-milk; cylindrical, weighing about 1-1/2 pounds.

Septmoncel

_France_

Semihard; skim; blue-veined; made of all three milks: cow, goat and

sheep. An excellent "Blue" ranked above Roquefort by some, and next to

Stilton. Also called Jura Bleu, and a member of the triple milk

triplets with Gex and Sassenage.

Serbian

_Serbia_

Made most primitively by dropping heated stones into a kettle of milk

over an open fire. After the rennet is added, the curd stands for an

hour and is separated from the whey by being lifted in a cheesecloth

and strained. It is finally put in a wooden vessel to ripen. First it

is salted, then covered each day with whey for eight days and finally

with fresh milk for six.

Syria also makes a cheese called Serbian from goat's milk. It is

semisoft.

Serbian Butter _see_ Kajmar.

Serra da Estrella, Queijo da (Cheese of the Star Mountain Range)

_Portugal_

The finest of several superb mountain-sheep cheeses in Portugal. Other

milk is sometimes added, but sheep is standard. The milk is coagulated

by an extract of thistle or cardoon flowers in two to six hours. It is

ripened in circular forms for several weeks and marketed in rounds

averaging five pounds, about ten by two inches. The soft paste inside

is pleasantly oily and delightfully acid.

Sharp-flavored cheese

U.S. aged Cheddars, including Monterey Jack; Italian Romano Fecorino,

Old Asiago, Gorgonzola, Incanestrato and Caciocavallo; Spanish de

Fontine; Aged Roumanian Kaskaval.

Shefford _see_ Chapter 2.

Silesian

_Poland and Germany_

White; mellow; caraway-seeded. Imitated in the U.S.A. (see Schlesischer.)

Sir cheeses

In Yugoslavia, Montenegro and adjacent lands Sir or Cyr means cheese.

Mostly this type is made of skimmed sheep milk and has small eyes or

holes, a sharp taste and resemblance to both American Brick and

Limburger. They are much fewer than the Saint cheeses in France.

Sir Iz Mjesine

_Dalmatia, Yugoslavia_

Primitively made by heating skim sheep milk in a bottle over an open

fire, coagulating it quickly with pig or calf rennet, breaking up the

curd with a wooden spoon and stirring it by hand over the fire.

Pressed into forms eight inches square and two inches thick, it is

dried for a day and either eaten fresh or cut into cubes, salted,

packed in green sheep or goat hides, and put away to ripen.

Sir Mastny

_Montenegro_

Fresh sheep milk.

Sir Posny

_Montenegro_

Hard; skim sheep milk; white, with many small holes. Also answers to

the names of Tord and Mrsav.

Sir, Twdr _see_ Twdr Sir.

Sir, Warshawski _see_ Warshawski Syr.

Siraz

_Serbia_

Semisoft; whole milk. Mellow.

Skyr

_Iceland_

The one standard cheese of the country. A cross between Devonshire

cream and cream cheese, eaten with sugar and cream. It is very well

liked and filling, so people are apt to take too much. A writer on the

subject gives this bit of useful information for travelers: "It is not

advisable, however, to take coffee and Skyr together just before

riding, as it gives you diarrhea."

Slipcote, or Colwick

_England_

Soft; unripened; small; white; rich as butter. The curd is put in

forms six by two inches for the whey to drain away. When firm it is

placed between cabbage leaves to ripen for a week or two, and when it

is taken from the leaves the skin or coat becomes loose and easily

slips off--hence the name. In the middle of the eighteenth century it

was considered the best cream cheese in England and was made then, as

today, in Wissenden, Rutlandshire.

Smältost

_Sweden_

Soft and melting.

Smearcase

Old English corruption of German Schmierkäse, long used in America for

cottage cheese.

Smoked Block

_Austria_

A well-smoked cheese in block form.

Smoked Mozzarella _see_ Mozzarella Affumicata.

Smoked Szekely

_Hungary_

Soft; sheep; packed like sausage in skins or bladders and smoked.

Smokelet

_Norway_.

A small smoked cheese.

Soaked-curd cheese _see_ Washed-curd cheese.

Sorbais

_Champagne, France_

Semihard; whole milk; fermented; yellow, with reddish brown rind. Full

flavor, high smell. Similar to Maroilles in taste and square shape,

but smaller.

Sorte Maggenga and Sorte Vermenga

Two "sorts" of Italian Parmesan.

Soumaintrain, Fromage de

_France_

Soft; fine; strong variety from Upper Burgundy.

Soybean

_China_

Because this cheese is made of vegetable milk and often developed with

a vegetable rennet, it is rated by many as a regular cheese. But our

occidental kind with animal milk and rennet is never eaten by Chinese

and the mere mention of it has been known to make them shiver.

Spalen or Stringer

_Switzerland_

A small Emmentaler of fine reputation made in the Canton of

Unterwalden from whole and partly skimmed milk and named from the

vessel in which five or six are packed and transported together.

Sperrkäse _see_ Dry.

Spiced

_International_

Many a bland cheese is saved from oblivion by the addition of spice,

to give it zest. One or more spices are added in the making and

thoroughly mixed with the finished product, so the cheese often takes

the name of the spice: Kuminost or Kommenost for cumin; Caraway in

English and several other languages, among them Kümmel, Nokkelost and

Leyden; Friesan Clove and Nagelkass; Sage; Thyme, cloverleaf Sapsago;

whole black pepper Pepato, etc.

Spiced and Spiced Spreads

_U.S.A._

Government standards for spiced cheeses and spreads specify not less

than 1-1/2 ounces of spice to 100 pounds of cheese.

Spiced Fondue _see_ Vacherin Fondu.

_France_

Spitz Spitzkase

_Germany_

Small cylinder, four by one and a half inches. Caraway spiced,

Limburger-like. _see_ Backsteiner.

Sposi

_Italy_

Soft; small; cream.

Spra

_Greek_

Sharp and pleasantly salty, packed fresh from the brine bath in

one-pound jars. As tasty as all Greek cheeses because they are made

principally from sheep milk.

Stängenkase

_Germany_

Limburger type.

Stein Käse

_U.S.A._

Aromatic, piquant "stone." A beer stein accompaniment well made after

the old German original.

Steinbuscher-Käse

_German_

Semihard; firm; full cream; mildly sour and pungent. Brick forms,

reddish and buttery. Originated in Frankfurt. Highly thought of at

home but little known abroad.

Steppe

_Russia, Germany, Austria, Denmark_

German colonists made and named this in Russia. Rich and mellow, it

tastes like Tilsiter and is now made in Denmark for export, as well as

in Germany and Austria for home consumption.

Stilton _see_ Chapter 3.

Stirred curd cheese

_U.S.A._

Similar to Cheddar, but more granular, softer in texture and marketed

younger.

Stracchino

_Italy_

Soft; goat; fresh cream; winter; light yellow; very sharp, rich and

pungent. Made in many parts of Italy and eaten sliced, never grated. A

fine cheese of which Taleggio is the leading variety. See in Chapter

3. Also see Certoso Stracchino.

Stracchino Crescenza is an extremely soft and highly colored member of

this distinguished family.

Stravecchio

_Italy_

Well-aged, according to the name.

Creamy and mellow.

Stringer _see_ Spalen.

Styria

_Austria_

Whole milk. Cylindrical form.

Suffolk

_England_

An old-timer, seldom seen today. Stony-hard, horny "flet milk"

cartwheels locally nicknamed "bang." Never popular anywhere, it has

stood more abuse than Limburger, not for its smell but for its flinty

hardness.

"Hunger will break through stone walls and anything

except a Suffolk cheese."

"Those that made me were uncivil

For they made me harder than the devil.

Knives won't cut me; fire won't sweat me;

Dogs bark at me, but can't eat me."

Surati, Panir

_India_

Buffalo milk. Uncolored.

Suraz

_Serbia_

Semihard and semisoft.

Sveciaost

_Sweden_

A national pride, named for its country, Swedish cheese, to match

Swiss cheese and Dutch cheese. It comes in three qualities: full

cream, 3/4 cream, and half cream. Soft; rich; ready to eat at six

weeks and won't keep past six months. A whole-hearted, whole-milk,

wholesome cheese named after the country rather than a part of it as

most _osts_ are.

Sweet-curd

_U.S.A._

Hard Cheddar, differing in that the milk is set sweet and the curd

cooked firmer and faster, salted and pressed at once. When ripe,

however, it is hardly distinguishable from the usual Cheddar made by

the granular process.

Swiss

_U.S.A._

In 1845 emigrants from Galrus, Switzerland, founded New Galrus,

Wisconsin and, after failing at farming due to cinch bugs gobbling

their crops, they turned to cheesemaking and have been at it ever

since. American Swiss, known long ago as picnic cheese, has been their

standby, and only in recent years these Wisconsin Schweizers have had

competition from Ohio and other states who turn out the typical

cartwheels, which still look like the genuine imported Emmentaler.

Szekely

_Transylvania, Hungary_

Soft; sheep; packed in links of bladders and sometimes smoked. This is

the type of foreign cheese that set the popular style for American

processed links, with wine flavors and everything.

T

Taffel, Table, Taffelost

_Denmark_

A Danish brand name for an ordinary

slicing cheese.

Tafi

_Argentina_

Made in the rich province of Tucuman.

Taiviers, les Petits Fromages de

_Périgord, France_

Very small and tasty goat cheese.

Taleggio

_Lombardy, Italy_

Soft, whole-milk, Stracchino type.

Tallance

_France_

Goat.

Tamie

_France_

Port-Salut made by Trappist monks at Savoy from their method that is

more or less a trade secret. Tome de Beaumont is an imitation produced

not far away.

Tanzenberger

_Carinthia, Austria_

Limburger type.

Tao-foo or Tofu

_China, Japan, the Orient_

Soybean curd or cheese made from the "milk" of soybeans. The beans are

ground and steeped, made into a paste that's boiled so the starch

dissolves with the casein. After being strained off, the "milk" is

coagulated with a solution of gypsum. This is then handled in the

same way as animal milk in making ordinary cow-milk cheeses. After

being salted and pressed in molds it is ready to be warmed up and

added to soups and cooked dishes, as well as being eaten as is.

Teleme

_Rumania_

Similar to Brinza and sometimes called Branza de Bralia. Made of

sheep's milk and rapidly ripened, so it is ready to eat in ten days.

Terzolo

_Italy_

Term used to designate Parmesan-type cheese made in winter.

Tête à Tête, Tête de Maure, Moor's Head

_France_

Round in shape. French name for Dutch Edam.

Tête de Moine, Monk's Head

_France_

A soft "head" weighing ten to twenty pounds. Creamy, tasty, summer

Swiss, imitated in Jura, France, and also called Bellelay.

Tête de Mort _see_ Fromage Gras for this death's head.

"The Tempting cheese of Fyvie"

_Scotland_

Something on the order of Eve's apple, according to the Scottish rhyme

that exposes it:

The first love token ye gae me

Was the tempting cheese of Fyvie.

O wae be to the tempting cheese,

The tempting cheese of Fyvie,

Gat me forsake my ain gude man

And follow a fottman laddie.

Texel

Sheep's milk cheese of three or four pounds made on the island of

Texel, off the coast of the Netherlands.

Thenay

_Vendôme, France_

Resembles Camembert and Vendôme.

Thion

_Switzerland_

A fine Emmentaler.

Three Counties

_Ireland_

An undistinguished Cheddar named for the three counties that make most

of the Irish cheese.

Thuringia Caraway

_Germany_

A hand cheese spiked with caraway.

Thyme

_Syria_

Soft and mellow, with the contrasting pungence of thyme. Two other

herbal cheeses are flavored with thyme--both French: Fromage Fort II,

Hazebrook II.

Tibet

_Tibet_

The small, hard, grating cheeses named after the country Tibet, are of

sheep's milk, in cubes about two inches on all sides, with holes to

string them through the middle, fifty to a hundred on each string.

They suggest Chinese strings of cash and doubtless served as currency,

in the same way as Chinese cheese money. (_See under_ Money.)

Tignard

_Savoy, France_

Hard; sheep or goat; blue-veined; sharp; tangy; from Tigne Valley in

Savoy. Similar to Gex, Sassenage and Septmoncel.

Tijuana

_Mexico_

Hard; sharp; biting; named from the border race-track town.

Tillamook _see_ Chapter 4.

Tilsit, or Tilsiter Käse, also called Ragnit

_Germany_

This classical variety of East Prussia is similar to American Brick.

Made of whole milk, with many small holes that give it an open

texture, as in Port-Salut, which it also resembles, although it is

stronger and coarser.

Old Tilsiter is something special in aromatic tang, and attempts to

imitate it are made around the world. One of them, Ovár, is such a

good copy it is called Hungarian Tilsit. There are American, Danish,

and Canadian--even Swiss--imitations.

The genuine Tilsit has been well described as "forthright in flavor; a

good snack cheese, but not suitable for elegant post-prandial

dallying."

Tilziski

_Yugoslavia_

A Montenegrin imitation Tilsiter.

Tome de Beaumont

_France_

Whole cow's milk.

Tome, la

_Auvergne, France_

Also called Fourme, Cantal, or Fromage de Cantal. A kind of Cheddar

that comes from Ambert, Aubrac, Aurillac, Grand-Murol, Rôche, Salers,

etc.

Tome de Chèvre

_Savoy, France_

Soft goat cheese.

Tome de Savoie

_France_

Soft paste; goat or cow. Others in the same category are: Tome des

Beagues, Tome au Fenouil, Tome Doudane.

Tomelitan Gruyère

_Norway_

Imitation of French Gruyère in 2-1/2 ounce packages.

Topf or Topfkäse

_Germany_

A cooked cheese to which Pennsylvania pot is similar. Sour skim milk

cheese, eaten fresh and sold in packages of one ounce. When cured it

is flaky.

Toscano, or Pecorino Toscano

_Tuscany, Italy_

Sheep's milk cheese like Romano but softer, and therefore used as a

table cheese.

Toscanello

_Tuscany, Italy_

A smaller edition of Toscano.

Touareg

_Berber, Africa_

Skim milk often curdled with Korourou leaves. The soft curd is then

dipped out onto mats like pancake batter and sun dried for ten days or

placed by a fire for six, with frequent turning. Very hard and dry and

never salted. Made from Lake Tchad to the Barbary States by Berber

tribes.

Tour Eiffel

_Berry, France_

Besides naming this Berry cheese, Tour Eiffel serves as a picturesque

label and trademark for a brand of Camembert.

Touloumisio

_Greece_

Similar to Feta.

Tournette

_France_

Small goat cheese.

Tourne de chèvre

_Dauphiné, France_

Goat cheese.

Trappe, la, or Oka

_Canada_

Truly fine Port-Salut named for the Trappist order and its Canadian

monastery.

Trappist _see_ Chapter 3.

Trappist

_Yugoslavia_

Trappist Port-Salut imitation.

Trauben (Grape)

_Switzerland_

Swiss or Gruyère aged in Swiss Neuchâtel wine and so named for the

grape.

Travnik, Travnicki

_Albania, Russia, Yugoslavia_

Soft, sheep whole milk with a little goat sometimes and occasionally

skim milk. More than a century of success in Europe, Turkey and

adjacent lands where it is also known as Arnauten, Arnautski Sir and

Vlasic.

When fresh it is almost white and has a mild, pleasing taste. It

ripens to a stronger flavor in from two weeks to several months, and

is not so good if holes should develop in it. The pure sheep-milk type

when aged is characteristically oily and sharp.

Traz os Montes

_Portugal_

Soft; sheep; oily; rich; sapid. For city turophiles nostalgically

named "From the Mountains." All sheep cheese is oily, some of it a bit

muttony, but none of it at all tallowy.

Trecce

_Italy_

Small, braided cheese, eaten fresh.

Triple Aurore

_France_

Normandy cheese in season all the year around.

Troo

_France_

Made and consumed in Touraine from May to January.

Trouville

_France_

Soft, fresh, whole milk. Pont l'Evêque type of superior quality.

Troyes, Fromage de _see_ Barberey and Ervy.

Truckles

_England_

No. I: Wiltshire, England. Skimmed milk; blue-veined variety like Blue

Vinny. The quaint word is the same as used in truckle or trundle bed.

On Shrove Monday Wiltshire kids went from door to door singing for a

handout:

Pray, dame, something,

An apple or a dumpling,

Or a piece of Truckle cheese

Of your own making.

No. II: Local name in the West of England for a full cream Cheddar

put up in loaves.

Tschil

_Armenia_

Also known as Leaf, Telpanir and Zwirn. Skim milk of either sheep or

cows. Made into cakes and packed in skins in a land where wine is

drunk from skin canteens, often with Tschil.

Tuile de Flandre

_France_

A type of Marolles.

Tullum Penney

_Turkey_

Salty from being soaked in brine.

Tuna, Prickly Pear

_Mexico_

Not an animal milk cheese, but a vegetable one, made by boiling and

straining the pulp of the cactuslike prickly pear fruit to cheeselike

consistency. It is chocolate-color and sharp, piquantly pleasant when

hard and dry. It is sometimes enriched with nuts, spices and/or

flowers. It will keep for a very long time and has been a dessert or

confection in Mexico for centuries.

Tuscano

_Italy_

Semihard; cream color; a sort of Tuscany Parmesan.

Twdr Sir

_Serbia_

Semisoft sheep skim-milk cheese with small holes and a sharp taste.

Pressed in forms two by ten to twelve inches in diameter. Similar to

Brick or Limburger.

Twin Cheese

_U.S.A._

Outstanding American Cheddar marketed by Joannes Brothers, Green Bay,

Wisconsin.

Tworog

_Russia_

Semihard sour milk farm (not factory) made. It is used in the cheese

bread called Notruschki.

Tybo

_Denmark_

Made in Copenhagen from pasteurized skim milk.

Tyrol Sour

_German_

A typical Tyrolean hand cheese.

Tzgone

_Dalmatia_

The opposite number of Tzigen, just below.

Tzigenkäse

_Austria_

Semisoft; skimmed sheep, goat or cow milk. White; sharp and salty;

originated in Dalmatia.

U

Urda

_Rumania_

Creamy; sweet; mild.

Uri

_Switzerland_

Hard; brittle; white; tangy. Made in the Canton of Uri. Eight by eight

to twelve inches, weight twenty to forty pounds.

Urseren

_Switzerland_

Mild flavored. Cooked curd.

Urt, Fromage d'

Soft Port-Salut type of the Basque country.

V

Vacherin

_France and Switzerland_

I. Vacherin à la Main. Savoy, France. Firm, leathery rind, soft

interior like Brie or Camembert; round, five to six by twelve inches

in diameter. Made in summer to eat in winter. When fully ripe it is

almost a cold version of the great dish called Fondue. Inside the

hard-rind container is a velvety, spicy, aromatic cream, more runny

than Brie, so it can be eaten with a spoon, dunked in, or spread on

bread. The local name is Tome de Montague.

II. Vacherin Fondu, or Spiced Fondu. Switzerland. Although called

Fondu from being melted, the No. I Vacherin comes much closer to our

conception of the dish Fondue, which we spell with an "e."

Vacherin No. II might be called a re-cooked and spiced Emmentaler, for

the original cheese is made, and ripened about the same as the Swiss

classic and is afterward melted, spiced and reformed into Vacherin.

Val-d'Andorre, Fromage du

_Andorra, France_

Sheep milk.

Valdeblore, le

_Nice, France_

Hard, dried, small Alpine goat cheese.

Valençay, or Fromage de Valençay

_Touraine, France_

Soft; cream; goat milk; similar to Saint-Maure. In season from May to

December. This was a favorite with Francis I.

Valio

_Finland_

One-ounce wedges, six to a box, labeled pasteurized process Swiss

cheese, made by the Cooperative Butter Export Association, Helsinki,

Finland, to sell to North Americans to help them forget what real

cheese is.

Valsic

_Albania_

Crumbly and sharp.

Varalpenland

_Germany_

Alpine. Piquant, strong in flavor and

smell.

Varennes, Fromage de

_France_

Soft, fine, strong variety from Upper Burgundy.

Västerbottenost

_West Bothnia_

Slow-maturing. One to one-and-a-half years in ripening to a pungent,

almost bitter taste.

Västgötaost

_West Gothland, Sweden_

Semihard; sweet and nutty. Takes a half year to mature. Weight twenty

to thirty pounds.

Vendôme, Fromage de

_France_

Hard; sheep; round and flat; like la Cendrée in being ripened under

ashes. There is also a soft Vendôme sold mostly in Paris.

Veneto, Venezza

_Italy_

Parmesan type, similar to Asiago. Usually sharp.

Vic-en-Bigorre

_France_

Winter cheese of Béarn in season October to May.

Victoria

_England_

The brand name of a cream cheese made in Guilford.

Ville Saint-Jacques

_France_

Ile-de-France winter specialty in season from November to May.

Villiers

_France_

Soft, one-pound squares made in Haute-Marne.

Viry-vory, or Vary

_France_

Fresh cream cheese.

Viterbo

_Italy_

Sheep milk usually curdled with wild artichoke, _Cynara Scolymus_.

Strong grating and seasoning type of the Parmesan-Romano-Pecorino

family.

Vize

_Greece_

Ewe's milk; suitable for grating.

Void

_Meuse, France_

Soft associate of Pont l'Evêque and Limburger.

Volvet Kaas

_Holland_

The name means "full cream" cheese and that--according to law--has 45%

fat in the dry product (_See_ Gras.)

Vorarlberg Sour-milk

_Greasy_

Hard; greasy; semicircular form of different sizes, with extra-strong

flavor and odor. The name indicates that it is made of sour milk.

Vory, le

_France_

Fresh cream variety like Neufchâtel and Petit Suisse.

W

Warshawski Syr

_Poland_

Semihard; fine nutty flavor; named for the capital city of Poland.

Warwickshire

_England_

Derbyshire type.

Washed-curd cheese

_U.S.A._

Similar to Cheddar. The curd is washed to remove acidity and any

abnormal flavors.

Wedesslborg

_Denmark_

A mild, full cream loaf of Danish blue that can be very good if fully

ripened.

Weisschmiere

_Bavaria, Germany_

Similar to Weisslacker, a slow-ripening variety that takes four

months.

Weisslacker, White Lacquer

_Bavaria_

Soft; piquant; semisharp; Allgäuer-type put up in cylinders and

rectangles, 4-1/2 by 4 by 3-1/2, weighing 2-1/2 pounds. One of

Germany's finest soft cheeses.

Welsh cheeses

The words Welsh and cheese have become synonyms down the ages. Welsh

"cheeses can be attractive: the pale, mild Caerphilly was famous at

one time, and nowadays has usually a factory flavor. A soft cream

cheese can be obtained at some farms, and sometimes holds the same

delicate melting sensuousness that is found in the poems of John

Keats.

"The 'Resurrection Cheese' of Llanfihangel Abercowyn is no longer

available, at least under that name. This cheese was so called because

it was pressed by gravestones taken from an old church that had fallen

into ruins. Often enough the cheeses would be inscribed with such

wording as 'Here lies Blodwen Evans, aged 72.'" (From _My Wales_ by

Rhys Davies.)

Wensleydale

_England_

I. England, Yorkshire. Hard; blue-veined; double cream; similar to

Stilton. This production of the medieval town of Wensleydale in the

Ure Valley is also called Yorkshire-Stilton and is in season from June

to September. It is put up in the same cylindrical form as Stilton,

but smaller. The rind is corrugated from the way the wrapping is put

on.

II. White; flat-shaped; eaten fresh; made mostly from January through

the Spring, skipping the season when the greater No. I is made

(throughout the summer) and beginning to be made again in the fall and

winter.

Werder, Elbinger and Niederungskäse

_West Prussia_

Semisoft cow's-milker, mildly acid, shaped like Gouda.

West Friesian

_Netherlands_

Skim-milk cheese eaten when only a week old. The honored antiquity of

it is preserved in the anonymous English couplet:

Good bread, good butter and good cheese

Is good English and good Friese.

Westphalia Sour Milk, or Brioler

_Germany_

Sour-milk hand cheese, kneaded by hand. Butter and/or egg yolk is

mixed in with salt, and either pepper or caraway seeds. Then the

richly colored curd is shaped by hand into small balls or rolls of

about one pound. It is dried for a couple of hours before being put

down cellar to ripen. The peculiar flavor is due partly to the

seasonings and partly to the curd being allowed to putrify a little,

like Limburger, before pressing.

This sour-milker is as celebrated as Westphalian raw ham. It is so

soft and fat it makes a sumptuous spread, similar to Tilsit and

Brinza. It was named Brioler from the "Gute Brioler" inn where it was

perfected by the owner, Frau Westphal, well over a century ago.

The English sometimes miscall it Bristol from a Hobson-Jobson of the

name Briol.

Whale Cheese

_U.S.A._

In _The Cheddar Box, _Dean Collins tells of an ancient legend in which

the whales came into Tillamook Bay to be milked; and he poses the

possible origin of some waxy fossilized deposits along the shore as

petrified whale-milk cheese made by the aboriginal Indians after

milking the whales.

White, Fromage Blanc

_France_

Skim-milk summer cheese made in many parts of the country and eaten

fresh, with or without salt.

White Cheddar

_U.S.A._

Any Cheddar that isn't colored with anatto is known as White Cheddar.

Green Bay brand is a fine example of it.

White Gorgonzola

This type without the distinguishing blue veins is little known

outside of Italy where it is highly esteemed. (_See_ Gorgonzola.)

White Stilton

_England_

This white form of England's royal blue cheese lacks the aristocratic

veins that are really as green as Ireland's flag.

Whitethorn

_Ireland_

Firm; white; tangy; half-pound slabs boxed. Saltee is the same, except

that it is colored.

Wilstermarsch-Käse Holsteiner Marsch

_Schleswig-Holstein, Germany_

Semihard; full cream; rapidly cured; Tilsit type; very fine; made at

Itzehoe.

Wiltshire or Wilts

_England_

A Derbyshire type of sharp Cheddar popular in Wiltshire. (_See_ North

Wilts.)

Wisconsin Factory Cheeses

_U.S.A._

Have the date of manufacture stamped on the rind, indicating by the

age whether the flavor is "mild, mellow, nippy, or sharp." American

Cheddar requires from eight months to a year to ripen properly, but

most of it is sold green when far too young.

Notable Wisconsiners are Loaf, Limburger, Redskin and Swiss.

Withania

_India_

Cow taboos affect the cheesemaking in India, and in place of rennet

from calves a vegetable rennet is made from withania berries. This

names a cheese of agreeable flavor when ripened, but, unfortunately,

it becomes acrid with age.

Y

Yoghurt, or Yogurt

_U.S.A._

Made with _Bacillus bulgaricus_, that develops the acidity of the

milk. It is similar to the English Saint Ivel.

York, York Curd and Cambridge York

_England_

A high-grade cream cheese similar to Slipcote, both of which are

becoming almost extinct since World War II. Also, this type is too

rich to keep any length of time and is sold on the straw mat on which

it is cured, for local consumption.

Yorkshire-Stilton

_Cotherstone, England_

This Stilton, made chiefly at Cotherstone, develops with age a fine

internal fat which makes it so extra-juicy that it's a general

favorite with English epicures who like their game well hung.

York State

_U.S.A._

Short for New York State, the most venerable of our Cheddars.

Young America

_U.S.A._

A mild, young, yellow Cheddar.

Yo-yo

_U.S.A._

Copying pear-and apple-shaped balls of Italian Provolone hanging on

strings, a New York cheesemonger put out a Cheddar on a string, shaped

like a yo-yo.

Z

Ziegel

_Austria_

Whole milk, or whole milk with cream added. Aged only two months.

Ziegenkäse

_Germany_

A general name in Germanic lands for cheeses made of goat's milk.

Altenburger is a leader among Ziegenkäse.

Ziger

I. This whey product is not a true cheese, but a cheap form of food

made in all countries of central Europe and called albumin cheese,

Recuit, Ricotta, Broccio, Brocotte, Serac, Ceracee, etc. Some are

flavored with cider and others with vinegar. There is also a whey

bread.

II. Similar to Corsican Broccio and made of sour sheep milk instead of

whey. Sometimes mixed with sugar into small cakes.

Zips _see_ Brinza.

Zomma

_Turkey_

Similar to Caciocavallo.

Zwirn _see_ Tschil.

[Illustration]

Index of Recipes

American Cheese Salad, 128

Angelic Camembert, 120

Apple and Cheese Salad, 130

Apple Pie à la Cheese, 119

Apple Pie Adorned, 119

Apple Pie, Cheese-crusty, 119

Asparagus and Cheese, Italian, 110

au Gratin

Eggs, 125

Potatoes, 125

Tomatoes, 125

Blintzes, 111

Brie or Camembert Salad, 128

Camembert, Angelic, 120

Champagned Roquefort or Gorgonzola, 122

Cheddar Omelet, 135

Cheese and Nut Salad, 128

Cheese and Pea Salad, 130

Cheese Cake, Pineapple, 117

Cheese Charlotte, 133

Cheese-crusty Apple Pie, 119

Cheese Custard, 118

Cheese Pie, Open-faced, 118

Cheese Sauce, Plain, 131

Cheese Waffles, 112

Cheesed Mashed Potatoes, 137

Chicken Cheese Soup, 127

Cottage Cheese Pancakes, 112

Christmas Cake Sandwiches, 120

Cold Dunking, 133

Custard, Cheese, 118

Dauphiny Ravioli, 109

Diablotins, 135

Dumpling, Napkin, 112

Dunking, Cold, 133

Eggs au Gratin, 125

Flan au Fromage, 119

Fondue

à l'Italienne, 84

All-American, 85

au Fromage, 90

Baked Tomato, 89

Brick, 92

Catsup Tummy Fondiddy, Quickie, 91

Cheddar Dunk Bowl, 93

Cheese, 92

Cheese, and Corn, 92

Cheese and Rice, 91

Chives, 88

Comtois, 88

Corn and Cheese, 92

Neufchâtel Style, 82

100% American, 90

Parmesan, 86

Quickie Catsup Tummy Fondiddy, 91

Rice, and Cheese, 91

Sapsago Swiss, 86

Tomato, 89

Tomato Baked, 89

Vacherin-Fribourg, 88

Fritters, Italian, 109

Fritto Misto, Italian, 137

Garlic on Cheese, 110

Gorgonzola and Banana Salad, 129

Green Cheese Salad Julienne, 127

Italian Asparagus and Cheese, 110

Italian Fritters, 109

Italian Fritto Misto, 137

Italian-Swiss Scallopini, 108

Little Hats, Cappelletti, 108

Meal-in-One Omelet, A, 135

Miniature Pizzas, 107

Napkin Dumpling, 112

Neapolitan Baked Lasagne, 108

Omelet

Cheddar, 135

Meal-in-One, 135

Parmesan, 135

Tomato, 136

with Cheese Sauce, 136

Onion Soup, 126

Onion Soup au Gratin, 126

Open-faced Cheese Pie, 118

Pancakes, Cottage Cheese, 112

Parmesan Omelet, 135

Parsleyed Cheese Sauce, 131

Pfeffernüsse and Caraway, 134

Pineapple Cheese Cake, 117

Piroghs, Polish, 137

Pizza, 106

Cheese, 107

Dough, 106

Miniature, 107

Tomato Paste, 107

Polish Piroghs, 137

Potatoes au Gratin, 125

Potatoes, Mashed, Cheesed, 137

Puffs

Breakfast, 100

Cheese, New England, 100

Cream Cheese, 100

Danish Fondue, 100

Fried, 99

New England Cheese, 100

Parmesan, 99

Roquefort, 99

Three-in-One, 98

Rabbit

After-Dinner, 55

All-American Succotash, 77

American Woodchuck, 63

Anchovy, 70

Asparagus, 68

Basic

No. 1 (with beer), 49

No. 2 (with milk), 50

Blushing Bunny, 63

Border-hopping Bunny, 60

"Bouquet of the Sea," 69

Buttermilk, 76

Celery and Onion, 67

Chipped Beef, 66

Cream Cheese, 75

Crumby, 70

Crumby Tomato, 71

Curry, 76

Danish, 77

Devil's Own, The, 65

Dr. Maginn's, 54

Dried Beef, 66

Dutch, 72

Easy English, 78

Eggnog, 77

Fish, Fresh or Dried, 69

Fluffy, Eggy, 64

Frijole, 60

Gherkin, 71

Ginger Ale, 76

Golden Buck, 59

Golden Buck II, 59

Grilled Sardine, 69

Grilled Tomato, 65

Grilled Tomato and Onion, 65

Gruyère, 73

Kansas Jack, 66

Lady Llanover's Toasted, 52

Latin-American Corn, 67

Mexican Chilaly, 64

Mushroom-Tomato, 67

Onion Rum Tum Tiddy, 62

Original Recipe, Ye, 57

Oven, 58

Oyster, 68

Pink Poodle, 74

Pumpernickel, 72

Reducing, 75

Roe, 69

Rum Tum Tiddy, 61

Rum Tum Tiddy, Onion, 62

Rum Tum Tiddy, Sherry, 62

Running, 63

Sardine, Grilled, 69

Sardine, Plain, 69

Savory Eggy Dry, 75

Scotch Woodcock, 63

Sea-food, 68

Sherry, 73

Sherry Rum Tum Tiddy, 62

Smoked Cheddar, 70

Smoked fish, 70

South African Tomato, 61

Spanish Sherry, 74

Stieff Recipe, The, 51

Swiss Cheese, 73

Tomato, 61

Tomato and Onion, Grilled, 65

Tomato, Crumby, 71

Tomato, Grilled, 65

Tomato Soup, 62

Tomato, South American, 61

Venerable Yorkshire Buck, The, 59

Yale College, 59

Yorkshire, 58

Ramekins

à la Parisienne, 103

Casserole, 105

Cheese I, 101

Cheese II, 102

Cheese III, 102

Cheese IV, 103

Frying Pan, 105

Morézien, 104

Puff Paste, 105

Roquefort-Swiss, 104

Swiss-Roquefort, 104

Ravioli, Dauphiny, 109

Roquefort, Champagned, 122

Roquefort Cheese Salad Dressing, 130

Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese Salad, 129

Salad

American Cheese, 128

Apple and Cheese, 130

Brie, 128

Camembert, 128

Cheese and Nut, 128

Cheese and Pea, 130

Gorgonzola and Banana, 129

Green Cheese Salad Julienne, 127

Rosie's Swiss Breakfast Cheese, 129

Swiss Cheese, 129

Three-in-One Mold, 128

Sandwiches

Alpine Club, 141

Boston Beany, Open-face, 141

Cheeseburgers, 141

Deviled Rye, 142

Egg, Open-faced, 142

French-fried Swiss, 142

Grilled Chicken-Ham-Cheddar, 142

He-man, Open-faced, 143

International, 143

Jurassiennes, or Croûtes Comtoises, 143

Kümmelkäse, 143

Limburger Onion, or Catsup, 143

Meringue, Open-faced, 144

Neufchâtel and Honey, 144

Newfoundland Toasted Cheese, 148

Oskar's Ham-Cam, 144

Pickled Camembert, 145

Queijo da Serra, 145

Roquefort Nut, 145

Smoky, Sturgeon-smoked, 145

Tangy, 146

Toasted Cheese, 148

Unusual--of Flowers, Hay and Clover, 146

Vegetarian, 146

Witch's, 147

Xochomilco, 147

Yolk Picnic, 147

Sauce

Cheese, 131

Mornay, 131

Parsleyed Cheese, 131

Sauce Mornay, 131

Scallopini, Italian-Swiss, 108

Schnitzelbank Pot, 37

Soufflé

Basic, 95

Cheese-Corn, 96

Cheese Fritter, 98

Cheese-Mushroom, 97

Cheese-Potato, 97

Cheese-Sea-food, 97

Cheese-Spinach, 96

Cheese-Tomato, 96

Corn-Cheese, 96

Mushroom-Cheese, 97

Parmesan, 95

Parmesan-Swiss, 96

Potato-Cheese, 97

Sea-food-Cheese, 97

Spinach-Cheese, 96

Swiss, 96

Tomato-Cheese, 96

Soup

Chicken Cheese, 127

Onion, 126

Onion, au Gratin, 126

Supa Shetgia, 133

Spanish Flan--Quesillo, 136

Straws, 133

Stuffed Celery, 132

Supa Shetgia, 133

Swiss Cheese Salad, 129

Three-in-One Mold, 128

Tomato Omelet, 136

Tomatoes au Gratin, 125

Vatroushki, 111

Waffles, Cheese, 112

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

* * * * *

Bob Brown, after living thirty years in as many foreign lands and

enjoying countless national cheeses at the source, returned to New

York and summed them all up in this book.

Born in Chicago, he was graduated from Oak Park High School and

entered the University of Wisconsin at the exact moment when a number

of imported Swiss professors in this great dairy state began teaching

their students how to hole an Emmentaler.

After majoring in beer and free lunch from Milwaukee to Munich, Bob

celebrated the end of Prohibition with a book called _Let There Be

Beer!_ and then decided to write another about Beer's best friend,

Cheese. But first he collaborated with his mother Cora and wife Rose

on _The Wine Cookbook_, still in print after nearly twenty-five

years. This first manual on the subject in America paced a baker's

dozen food-and-drink books, including: _America Cooks, 10,000 Snacks,

Fish and Seafood_ and _The South American Cookbook_.

For ten years he published his own weekly magazines in Rio de

Janeiro, Mexico City and London. In the decade before that, from 1907

to 1917, he wrote more than a thousand short stories and serials

under his full name, Robert Carlton Brown. One of his first books,

_What Happened to Mary_, became a best seller and was the first

five-reel movie. This put him in _Who's Who_ in his early twenties.

In 1928 he retired to write and travel. After a couple of years spent

in collecting books and bibelots throughout the Orient, he settled

down in Paris with the expatriate group of Americans and invented the

Reading Machine for their delectation. Nancy Cunard published his

_Words_ and Harry Crosby printed _1450-1950_ at the Black Sun Press,

while in Cagnes-sur-Mer Bob had his own imprint Roving Eye Press,

that turned out _Demonics; Gems, a Censored Anthology; Globe-gliding_

and _Readies for Bob Brown's Machine_ with contributions by Gertrude

Stein, Ezra Pound, Kay Boyle, James T. Farrell _et al._

The depression drove him back to New York, but a decade later he

returned to Brazil that had long been his home away from home. There

he wrote _The Amazing Amazon_, with his wife Rose, making a total of

thirty books bearing his name.

After the death of his wife and mother, Bob Brown closed their

mountain home in Petropolis, Brazil, and returned to New York where

he remarried and now lives, in the Greenwich Village of his

free-lancing youth. With him came the family's working library in a

score of trunks and boxes, that formed the basis of a mail-order book

business in which he specializes today in food, drink and other

out-of-the-way items.

[Compiler's Notes: Moved what was page 1 of project past title page,

removed publisher's copyright information from page 3. Removed references

to Introduction, as it was omitted from the book project.]

The Complete Book of Cheese · 第 3 / 3 章