Chapter 4.)

Mascarpone, or Macherone

_Italy_

Soft; white; delicate fresh cream from Lombardy. Usually packed in

muslin or gauze bags, a quarter to a half pound.

McIntosh

_Alaska_

An early Klondike Cheddar named by its maker, Peter McIntosh, and

described as being as yellow as that "Alaskan gold, which brought at

times about ounce for ounce over mining-camp counters." _The Cheddar

Box_ by Dean Collins.

McLaren's

_U.S.A._

Pioneer club type of snappy Cheddar in a pot, originally made in

Canada, now by Kraft in the U.S.A.

Meadowbloom

_U.S.A._

Made by the Iowa State College at Ames.

Mecklenburg Skim

_Germany_

No more distinguished than most skim-milkers.

Meilbou

_France_

Made in the Champagne district.

Mein Käse

_U.S.A._

Sharp; aromatic; trade-marked package.

Melfa

_U.S.A._

Excellent for a processed cheese. White; flavorsome. Packed in half

moons.

Melun

_France_

Brown-red rind, yellow inside; high-smelling. There is also a Brie de

Melun.

Mentelto

_Italy_

Sharp; goat; from the Mentelto mountains

Merignac

_France_

Goat.

Merovingian

_Northeast France_

Semisoft; white; creamy; sharp; historic since the time of the

Merovingian kings.

Mersem

_France_

Lightly cooked.

Mesitra

_Crimea_

Eaten when fresh and unsalted; also when ripened. Soft, ewe's milk.

Mesost

_Sweden_

Whey; sweetish.

Metton

_Franche-Comté, France_

Season October to June.

Meuse

_France_

Soft; piquant; aromatic.

Midget Salami Provolone

_U.S.A._

This goes Baby Goudas and Edams one better by being a sort of sausage,

too.

Mignot

_Calvados, France_

_White, No. I:_ Soft; fresh; in small cubes or cylinders; in season

only in summer, April to September.

_Passe, No. II:_ Soft but ripened, and in the same forms, but only

seasonal in winter, October to March. Similar to Pont l'Evêque and

popular for more than a century. It goes specially well with Calvados

cider, fresh, hard or distilled.

Migras

Name given to spring Brie--midway between fat winter Gras and thin

summer Maigre.

Milano, Stracchino di Milano, Fresco, Quardo

_Italy_

Similar to Bel Paese. Yellow, with thin rind. 1-1/2 to 2-3/4 inches

thick, 3 to 6-1/2 pounds.

Milk Mud _see_ Schlickermilch.

Millefiori

_Milan, Italy_

A Thousand Flowers--as highly scented as its sentimental name. Yet no

cheeses are so freshly fragrant as these flowery Alpine ones.

Milltown Bar

_U.S.A._

Robust texture and flavor reminiscent of free-lunch and old-time bars.

Milk cheeses

Milks that make cheese around the world:

Ass

Buffalo

Camel

Chamois

Elephant

Goat

Human (_see_ Mother's milk)

Llama

Mare

Reindeer

Sea cow (Amazonian legend)

Sheep

Whale (legendary; see Whale Cheese)

Yak

Zebra

Zebu

U.S. pure food laws prohibit cheeses made of unusual or strange

animal's milk, such as camel, llama and zebra.

Milwaukee Kümmelkäse

and Hand Käse

_U.S.A._

Aromatic with caraway, brought from Germany by early emigrants and

successfully imitated.

Minas

_Brazil_

Name for the Brazilian state of Minas Geraes, where it is made.

Semihard; white; round two-pounder; often chalky. The two best brands

are one called Primavera, Spring, and another put out by the Swiss

professors who teach the art at the Agricultural University in the

State Capital, Bello Horizonte.

Minnesota Blue

_U.S.A._

A good national product known from coast to coast. Besides Blue,

Minnesota makes good all-American Brick and Cheddar, natural nationals

to be proud of.

Mintzitra

_in Macedonia; and_

Mitzithra

_in Greece_

Sheep; soft; succulent; and as pleasantly greasy as other sheep

cheeses from Greece. It's a by-product of the fabulous Feta.

Modena, Monte

_U.S.A._

Made in U.S.A. during World War II. Parmesan-type.

Mohawk Limburger

Spread

_U.S.A._

A brand that comes in one-pound jars.

Moliterno

_Italy_

Similar to Caciocavallo. _(See.)_

Monceau

_Champagne, France_

Semihard, similar to Maroilles.

Moncenisio

_Italy_

Similar to Gorgonzola.

Mondseer, Mondseer Schachtelkäse, Mondseer Schlosskäse

_Austria_

This little family with a lot of long names is closely related to the

Münster tribe, with very distant connections with the mildest branch

of the Limburgers.

The Schachtelkäse is named from the wooden boxes in which it is

shipped, while the Schlosskäse shows its class by being called Castle

Cheese, probably because it is richer than the others, being made of

whole milk.

Money made of cheese

_China_

In the Chase National Bank collection of moneys of the world there is

a specimen of "Cheese money" about which the curator, Farran Zerbee,

writes: "A specimen of the so-called 'cheese money' of Northern China,

1850-70, now in the Chase Bank collection, came to me personally some

thirty years ago from a woman missionary, who had been located in the

field where she said a cake form of condensed milk, and referred to as

'cheese,' was a medium of exchange among the natives. It, like other

commodities, particularly compressed tea, was prized as a trading

medium in China, in that it had value as nutriment and was

sufficiently appreciated by the population as to be exchangeable for

other articles of service."

Monk's Head _see_ Tête de Moine.

Monostorer

_Transylvania, Rumania_

Ewe's milk.

Monsieur

_France_

Soft; salted; rich in flavor.

Monsieur Fromage _see_ Fromage de Monsieur Fromage.

Montana

_Catalonia_

A mountain cheese.

Montasio

_Austria and Italy_

Usually skimmed goat and cow milk mixed. When finished, the rind is

often rubbed with olive oil or blackened with soot. It is eaten both

fresh, white and sweet, and aged, when it is yellow, granular and

sharp, with a characteristic flavor. Mostly used when three to twelve

months old, but kept much longer and grated for seasoning. Widely

imitated in America.

Montauban de Bretagne, Fromage de

_Brittany, France_

A celebrated cheese of Brittany.

Montavoner

_Austria_

Sour and sometimes sweet milk, made tasty with dried herbs of the

_Achittea_ family.

Mont Blanc

_France_

An Alpine cheese.

Mont Cenis

_Southeastern France_

Usually made of all three available milks, cow, goat and sheep; it is

semihard and blue-veined like the other Roquefort imitations, Gex and

Septmoncel. Primitive methods are still used in the making and

sometimes the ripening is done by _penicillium_ introduced in moldy

bread. Large rounds, eighteen by six to eight inches, weighing

twenty-five pounds.

Mont-des-Cats

_French Flanders_

Trappist monk-made Port-Salut.

Montdidier

_France_

A fresh cream.

Mont d'or, le, or Mont Dore

_Lyonnais, France_

Soft; whole milk; originally goat, now cow; made throughout the Rhone

Valley. Fat, golden-yellow and "relished by financiers" according to

Victor Meusy. Between Brie and Pont l'Evêque but more delicate than

either, though not effeminate. Alpin and Riola are similar. The best

is still turned out at Mont d'Or, with runners-up in St. Cyr and St.

Didier.

Montavoner

_Austria_

A sour-milker made fragrant with herbs added to the curd.

Monterey

_Mexico_

Hard; sharp; perhaps inspired by Montery Jack that's made in

California and along the Mexican border.

Monterey Jack _see_ Chapter 4.

Monthéry

_Seine-et-Oise, France_

Whole or partly skimmed milk; soft in quality and large in size,

weighing up to 5-1/2 pounds. Notable only for its patriotic tri-color

in ripening, with whitish mold that turns blue and has red spots.

Montpellier

_France_

Sheep.

Moravian

_Czechoslovakia_

Semihard and sharp.

Morbier

_Bresse, France_

In season from November to July.

Mostoffait

_France_

A little-known product of Champagne.

Mother's milk

In his book about French varieties, _Les Fromages_, Maurice des

Ombiaux sums up the many exotic milks made into cheese and recounts

the story of Paul Bert, who served a cheese "white as snow" that was

so delicately appetizing it was partaken of in "religious silence."

All the guests guessed, but none was right. So the host announced it

was made of _"lait de femme"_ and an astounded turophile exclaimed,

"Then all of us are cannibals."

Mountain

_Bavaria_

Soft; yellow; sharp.

Mountain, Azuldoch _see_ Azuldoch.

Mount Hope

_U.S.A._

Yellow; mellow; mild and porous California Cheddar.

Mouse or Mouse Trap

_U.S.A._

Common name for young, green, cracked, leathery or rubbery low-grade

store cheese fit only to bait traps. When it's aged and sharp,

however, the same cheese can be bait for caseophiles.

Mozzarella

_Italy_

Soft; water-buffalo milk; moistly fresh and unripened; bland, white

cooking cheese put up in balls or big bowl-like cups weighing about a

half pound and protected with wax paper. The genuine is made at

Cardito, Aversa, Salernitano and in the Mazzoni di Capua. Like

Ricotta, this is such a popular cheese all over America that it is

imitated widely, and often badly, with a bitter taste.

Mozzarella-Affumicata, also called Scamozza

_Italy_

Semisoft; smooth; white; bland; un-salted. Put up in pear shapes of

about one pound, with tan rind, from smoking.

Eaten chiefly sliced, but prized, both fresh and smoked, in true

Italian one-dish meals such as Lasagne and Pizza.

Mozzarinelli

_Italy_

A pet name for a diminutive edition of Mozzarella.

Mrsav _see_ Sir Posny.

Münster

_Germany_

German originally, now made from Colmar, Strassburg and Copenhagen to

Milwaukee in all sorts of imitations, both good and bad. Semihard;

whole milk; yellow inside, brick-red outside; flavor from mild to

strong, depending on age and amount of caraway or anise seed added.

Best in winter season, from November to April.

Münster is a world-wide classic that doubles for both German and

French. Géromé is a standard French type of it, with a little longer

season, beginning in April, and a somewhat different flavor from anise

seed. Often, instead of putting the seeds inside, a dish of caraway is

served with the cheese for those who like to flavor to taste.

In Alsace, Münster is made plain and also under the name of Münster au

Cumin because of the caraway.

American imitations are much milder and marketed much younger. They

are supposed to blend the taste of Brick and Limburger; maybe they do.

Mustard

_U.S.A._

A processed domestic, Gruyère type.

Myjithra

Imitated with goat's milk in Southern Colorado.

Mysost, Mytost

_Scandinavia_

Made in all Scandinavian countries and imitated in the U.S.A. A whey

cheese, buttery, mild and sweetish with a caramel color all through,

instead of the heavy chocolate or dark tobacco shade of Gjetost.

Frimost is a local name for it. The American imitations are

cylindrical and wrapped in tin foil.

N

Nagelkassa (Fresh), Fresh Clove Cheese, called Nageles in Holland

_Austria_

Skim milk; curd mixed with caraway and cloves called nails, _nagel_,

in Germany and Austria. The large flat rounds resemble English Derby.

Nantais, or Fromage du Curé, Cheese of the Curate

_Brittany, France_

A special variety dedicated to some curate of Nantes.

Nessel

_England_

Soft; whole milk; round and very thin.

Neufchâtel, or Petit Suisse

_Normandy, France_

Soft; whole milk; small loaf. See Ancien Impérial, Bondon, and Chapter

9.

New Forest

_England_

Cream cheese from the New Forest district.

Nieheimer

_Westphalia, Germany_

Sour milk; with salt and caraway seed added, sometimes beer or milk.

Covered lightly with straw and packed in kegs with hops to ripen. Both

beer and hops in one cheese is unique.

Niolo

_Corsica_

In season from October to May.

Noekkelost or Nögelost

_Norway_

Similar to spiced Leyden or Edam with caraway, and shaped like a

Gouda.

Nordlands-Ost "Kalas"

_U.S.A._

Trade name for an American imitation of a Scandinavian variety,

perhaps suggested by Swedish Nordost.

Nordost

_Sweden_

Semisoft; white; baked; salty and smoky.

North Wilts

_Wiltshire, England_

Cheddar type; smooth; hard rind; rich but delicate in flavor. Small

size, ten to twelve pounds; named for its locale.

Nostrale

_Northwest Italy_

An ancient-of-days variety of which there are two kinds:

I. _Formaggio Duro:_ hard, as its name says, made in the spring

when the cows are in the valley.

II. _Formaggio Tenero:_ soft and richer, summer-made with milk

from lush mountain-grazing.

Notruschki (cheese bread)

_Russia_

Made with Tworog cheese and widely popular.

Nova Scotia Smoked

_U.S.A._

The name must mean that the cheese was smoked in the Nova Scotia

manner, for it is smoked mostly in New York City, like sturgeon, to

give the luxurious flavor.

Nuworld

_U.S.A._

This semisoft newcomer arrived about 1954 and is advertised as a

brand-new variety. It is made in the Midwest and packed in small,

heavily waxed portions to preserve all of its fine, full aroma and

flavor.

A cheese all America can be proud of, whether it is an entirely new

species or not.

O

Oaxaca

_see_ Asadero.

Oka, or La Trappe

_Canada_

Medium soft; aromatic; the Port-Salut made by Trappist monks in Canada

after the secret method of the order that originated in France. _See_

Trappe.

Old English Club

_U.S.A._

Not old, not English, and representing no club we know of.

Old Heidelberg

_U.S.A._

Soft, piquant rival of Liederkranz.

Oléron Isle, Fromage d'Ile

_France_

A celebrated sheep cheese from this island of Oléron.

Olive Cream

_U.S.A._

Ground olives mixed to taste with cream cheese. Olives rival pimientos

for such mildly piquant blends that just suit the bland American

taste. A more exciting olive cream may be made with Greek Calatma

olives and Feta sheep cheese.

Olivet

_Orléans, France_

Soft sheep cheese sold in three forms:

I. Fresh; summer, white; cream cheese.

II. Olivet-Bleu--mold inoculated; half-ripened.

III. Olivet-Cendré, ripened in the ashes. Season, October to June.

Olmützer Quargel, also Olmützer Bierkäse

_Austria_

Soft; skim milk-soured; salty. The smallest of hand cheeses, only 1/2

of an inch thick by 1-1/2 inches in diameter. Packed in kegs to ripen

into beer cheese and keep the liquid contents of other kegs company. A

dozen of these little ones are packed together in a box ready to drop

into wine or beer drinks at home or at the bar.

Oloron, or Fromage de la Vallee d'ossour

_Béarn, France_

In season from October to May.

Onion with garlic links

_U.S.A_

Processed and put up like frankfurters, in links.

Oporto

_Portugal_

Hard; sharp; tangy. From the home town of port wine.

Orkney

_Scotland_

A country cheese of the Orkney Islands where it is buried in the oat

bin to ripen, and kept there between meals as well. Oatmeal and Scotch

country cheese are natural affinities. Southey, Johnson and Boswell

have all remarked the fine savor of such cheese with oatcakes.

Orléans

_France_

Named after the Orléans district Soft; creamy; tangy.

Ossetin, Tuschninsk, or Kasach

_Caucasus_

Comes in two forms:

I. Soft and mild sheep or cow cheese ripened in brine for two months.

II. Hard, after ripening a year and more in brine. The type made of

sheep milk is the better.

Ostiepek, Oschtjepek, Oschtjpeka

_Czechoslovakia_

Sheep in the Carpathian Mountains supply the herb-rich milk for this

type, similar to Italian Caciocavallo.

Oswego

_U.S.A._

New York State Cheddar of distinction.

Oude Kaas

_Belgium_

Popular in France as Boule de Lille.

Oust, Fromage de

_Roussillon, France_

Of the Camembert family.

Ovár

_Hungarian_

Semisoft to semihard, reddish-brown rind, reddish-yellow inside. Mild

but pleasantly piquant It has been called Hungarian Tilsit.

Oveji Sir

_Yugoslavian Alpine_

Hard, mountain-sheep cheese of quality Cellar-ripened three months.

Weight six to ten pounds.

Oxfordshire

_England_

An obsolescent type, now only of literary interest because of Jonathan

Swift's little story around it, in the eighteenth century:

"An odd land of fellow, who when the cheese came upon the table,

pretended to faint; so somebody said, Pray take away the cheese.'

"'No,' said I, 'pray take away the fool. Said I well?'

"To this Colonel Arwit rejoins: 'Faith, my lord, you served the

coxcomb right enough; and therefore I wish we had a bit of your

lordship's Oxfordshire cheese.'"

P

Pabstett

_U.S.A_

The Pabst beer people got this out during Prohibition, and although

beer and cheese are brothers under their ferment, and Prohibition has

long since been done away with, the relation of the processed paste

to a natural cheese is still as distant as near beer from regular

beer.

Packet cheese

_England_

This corresponds to our process cheese and is named from the package

or packet it comes in.

Paglia

_Switzerland_

Italian-influenced Canton of Ticino. Soft. A copy of Gorgonzola. A

Blue with a pleasant, aromatic flavor, and of further interest because

in Switzerland, the motherland of cheese, it is an imitation of a

foreign type.

Pago

_Dalmatia, Yugoslavia_

A sheep-milk specialty made on the island of Pago in Dalmatia, in

weights from 1/2 to eight pounds.

Paladru

_Savoy, France_

In season from November to May.

Palpuszta

_Hungary_

Fairly strong Limburger type.

Pannarone

_Italy_

Gorgonzola type with white curd but without blue veining.

Parenica

_Hungary_

Sheep. Caciocavallo type.

Parmesan, Parmigiano

_Italy_

The grand mogul of all graters. Called "The hardest cheese in the

world." It enlivens every course from onion soup to cheese straws with

the demitasse, and puts spirit into the sparse Lenten menu as _Pasta

al Pesto_, powdered Parmesan, garlic, olive oil and basil, pounded in

a mortar with a pestle.

Passauer Rahmkäse, Crème de Passau

_German_

Noted Bavarian cream cheese, known in France as Crème de Passau.

Pasta Cotta

_Italy_

The ball or _grana_ of curd used in making Parmesan.

Pasta Filata

_Italy_

A "drawn" curd, the opposite of the little balls or grains into which

Grana is chopped.(_See_ Formaggi di Pasta Filata.)

Pasteurized Process Cheese Food

_U.S.A._

This is the ultimate desecration of natural fermented cheese. Had

Pasteur but known what eventual harm his discovery would do to a world

of cheese, he might have stayed his hand.

Pastorella

_Italy_

Soft, rich table cheese.

Patagras

_Cuba_

Similar to Gouda.

Pecorino

_Italy_

Italian cheese made from ewe's milk. Salted in brine. Granular.

Pelardon de Rioms

_Languedoc, France_

A goat cheese in season from May to November.

Peneteleu

_Rumania_

One of the international Caciocavallo family.

Penicillium Glaucum and Penicillium Album

Tiny mushroom spores of _Penicillium Glaucum_ sprinkled in the curd

destined to become Roquefort, sprout and grow into "blue" veins that

impart the characteristic flavor. In twelve to fifteen days a second

spore develops on the surface, snow-white _Penicillium Album_.

Pennich

_Turkey_

Mellow sheep cheese packed in the skin of sheep or lamb.

Pennsylvania Hand Cheese

_U.S.A._

This German original has been made by the Pennsylvania Dutch ever

since they arrived from the old country. Also Pennsylvania pot, or

cooked.

Penroque

_Pennsylvania, U.S.A_

Cow milk imitation Roquefort, inoculated with _Penicillium Roqueforti_

and ripened in "caverns where nature has duplicated the ideal

condition of the cheese-curing caverns of France." So any failure of

Penroque to rival real Roquefort is more likely to be the fault of

mother cow than mother nature.

Pepato

_Italy_

Hard; stinging, with whole black peppers that make the lips burn. Fine

for fire-eaters.

An American imitation is made in Northern Michigan.

Persillé de Savoie

_Savoie, France_

In season from May to January, flavored with parsley in a manner

similar to that of sage in Vermont Cheddar.

Petafina, La

_Dauphiné, France_

Goat or cow milk mixed together, with yeast of dried cheese added,

plus salt and pepper, olive oil, brandy and absinthe.

Petit Carré

_France_

Fresh, unripened Ancien Impérial.

Petit Gruyère

_Denmark_

Imitation Gruyère, pasteurized, processed and made almost

unrecognizable and inedible. Six tin-foil wedges to a box; also

packaged with a couple of crackers for bars, one wedge for fifteen

cents, where free lunch is forbidden. This is a fair sample of one of

several foreign imitations that are actually worse than we can do at

home.

Petit Moule

_Ile-de-France, France_

A pet name for Coulommiers.

Petit Suisse

_France_

Fresh, unsalted cream cheese. The same as Neufchâtel and similar to

Coulommiers. It comes in two sizes:

Gros--a largest cylinder

Demi--a small one

Keats called this "the creamy curd," and another writer has praised

its "La Fontaine-like simplicity." Whether made in Normandy,

Switzerland, or Petropolis, Brazil, by early Swiss settlers, it is

ideal with honey.

Petit Vacher

_France_

"Little Cowboy," an appropriate name for a small cow's-milk cheese.

Petits Bourgognes

_Lower Burgundy, France_

Soft; sheep; white, small, tangy. Other notable Petits also beginning

with B are Banons and Bressans.

Petits Fromages de Chasteaux, les

_France_

Small, sheep cream cheeses from Lower Limousin.

Petits Fromages de Chèvre

_France_

Little cheeses from little goats grazing on the little mountains of

Provence.

Petits Pots de Caillé de Poitiers

_Poitou, France_

Clotted milk in small pots.

Pfister

_Cham, Switzerland_

Emmentaler type, although differing in its method of making with fresh

skim milk. It is named for Pfister Huber who was the first to

manufacture it, in Chain.

Philadelphia Cream

_U.S.A._

An excellent cream cheese that has been standard for seventy years.

Made in New York State in spite of its name.

Picnic

_U.S.A._

Handy-size picnic packing of mild American Cheddar. Swiss has long

been called picnic cheese in America, its home away from home.

Picodon de Dieule Fit

_Dauphiné, France_

In season from May to December.

Pie, Fromage à la

_France_

Another name for Fromage Blanc or Farm; soft, creamy cottage-cheese

type.

Pie Cheese

_U.S.A_

An apt American name for any round store cheese that can be cut in

wedges like a pie. Perfect with apple or mince or any other pie. And

by the way, in these days when natural cheese is getting harder to

find, any piece of American Cheddar cut in pie wedges before being

wrapped in cellophane is apt to be the real thing--if it has the rind

on. The wedge shape is used, however, _without any rind_, to make

processed pastes pass for "natural" even without that identifying

word, and with misleading labels such as old, sharp Cheddar and "aged

nine months." That's long enough to make a baby, but not a "natural"

out of a processed "Cheddar."

Pimiento

_U.S.A._

Because pimiento is the blandest of peppers, it just suits our bland

national taste, especially when mixed with Neufchâtel, cream, club or

cottage. The best is homemade, of course, with honest, snappy old

Cheddar mashed and mixed to taste, with the mild Spanish pepper that

equals the Spanish olive as a partner in such spreads.

Pimp _see_ Mainzer Hand Cheese.

Pineapple _see_ Chapter 4.

Piora

_Tessin, Switzerland_

Hard cheese with small eyes. Whole milk, either cow's or a mixture of

goat's and cow's.

Pippen

_U.S.A._

Borden brand of Cheddar. Also Pippen Roll.

Pithiviers au Foin

_France_

Orléans variety ripened on hay from October to May.

Poitiers

_France_

Goat's milker named from its Poitou district.

Pommel

_France_

All year. Double cream; unsalted.

Ponta Delgada

_Azores_

Semifirm; delicate; piquant

Pontgibaud

_France_

Similar to Roquefort Ripened at a very low temperature.

Pont l'Evêque

Characterized as a classic French _fromage_ "with Huge-like

Romanticism." (_See_ Chapter 3.) An imported brand is called "The

Inquisitive Cow."

Poona

_U.S.A._

Semisoft; mellow; New York Stater of distinctive flavor. Sold in

two-pound packs, to be kept four or five hours at room temperature

before serving.

Port-Salut, Port du Salut _see_ Chapter 3.

Port, Blue Links

_U.S.A._

"Blue" flavored with red port and put up in pseudo-sausage links.

Pot cheese

_U.S.A._

Cottage cheese with a dry curd, not creamed. An old English favorite

for fruited cheese cakes with perfumed plums, lemons, almonds and

macaroons. In Ireland it was used in connection with the

sheep-shearing ceremonies, although itself a common cow curd.

Pennsylvania pot cheese is cooked.

Potato

_Germany and U.S.A._

Made in Thuringia from sour cow milk with sheep or goat sometimes

added. "The potatoes are boiled and grated or mashed. One part of the

potato is thoroughly mixed or kneaded with two or three parts of die

curd. In the better cheese three parts of potatoes are mixed with two

of curd. During the mixing, salt and sometimes caraway seed are added.

The cheese is allowed to stand for from two to four days while a

fermentation takes place. After this the curd is sometimes covered

with beer or cream and is finally placed in tubs and allowed to ripen

for fourteen days. A variety of this cheese is made in the U.S. It is

probable, however, that it is not allowed to ripen for quite so long a

period as the potato cheese of Europe. In all other essentials it

appears to be the same."

From U.S. Department of Agriculture _Bulletin_ No. 608.

Potato Pepper

_Italy_

Italian Potato cheese is enlivened with black pepper, like Pepato,

only not so stony hard.

Pots de Crème St. Gervais

_St. Gervais-sur-mer, France_

The celebrated cream that rivals English Devonshire and is eaten both

as a sweet and as a fresh cheese.

Pouligny-St. Pierre

_Touraine, France_

A celebrated cylindrical cheese made in Indre. Season from May to

December.

Poustagnax, le

_France_

A fresh cow-milk cheese of Gascony.

Prato

_Brazil_

Semihard, very yellow imitation of the Argentine imitation of Holland

Dutch. Standard Brazilian dessert with guava or quince paste. Named

not from "dish" but the River Plate district of the Argentine from

whence it was borrowed long ago.

Prattigau

_Switzerland_

Aromatic and sharp, Limburger type, from skim milk. Named for its home

valley.

Prestost or Saaland Flarr

_Sweden_

Similar to Gouda, but unique--the curd being mixed with whiskey,

packed in a basket, salted and cellared, wrapped in a cloth changed

daily; and on the third day finally washed with whiskey.

Primavera, Spring

_Minas Geraes, Brazil_

Semihard white brand of Minas cheese high quality, with a spring-like

fragrance.

Primost

_Norway_

Soft; whey; unripened; light brown; mild flavor.

Primula

_Norway_

A blend of French Brie and Petit Gruyère, mild table cheese imitate in

Norway, sold in small packages. Danish Appetitost is similar, but with

caraway added.

Processed

_U.S.A._

From here around the world. Natural cheese melted and modified by

emulsification with a harmless agent and thus changed into a plastic

mass.

Promessi

_Italy_

Small soft-cream cheese.

Provatura

_Italy_

A water-buffalo variety. This type of milk makes a good beginning for

a fine cheese, no matter how it is made.

Providence

_France_

Port-Salut from the Trappist monastery at Briquebec.

Provole, Provolone, Provolocine, Provoloncinni, Provoletti, and

Provolino

_Italy_

All are types, shapes and sizes of Italy's most widely known and

appreciated cheese. It is almost as widely but badly imitated in the

U.S.A., where the final "e" and "i" are interchangeable.

Cured in string nets that stay on permanently to hang decoratively in

the home kitchen or dining room. Like straw Chianti bottles,

Provolones weigh from _bocconi_ (mouthful), about one pound, to two to

four pounds. There are three-to five-pound Provoletti, and upward with

huge Salamis and Giants. Small ones come ball, pear, apple, and all

sorts of decorative shapes, big ones become monumental sculptures that

are works of art to compare with butter and soap modeling.

P'teux, le, or Fromage Cuit

_Lorraine, France_

Cooked cheese worked with white wine instead of milk, and potted.

Puant Macere

_Flanders_

"The most candidly named cheese in existence." In season from November

to June.

Pultost or Knaost

_Norway_

Sour milk with some buttermilk, farm made in mountains.

Pusztador

_Hungary_

Semihard, Limburger-Romadur type. Full flavor, high scent.

Pyrenees, Fromage des

_France_

A fine mountain variety.

Q

Quartiolo

_Italy_

Term used to distinguish Parmesan-type cheese made between September

and November.

Quacheq

_Macedonia, Greece_

Sheep, eaten both fresh and ripened.

Quargel _see_ Olmützer.

Quartirolo

_Italy_

Soft, cow's milk.

Queijos--Cheeses of the Azores, Brazil and Portugal

_see_ under their local or regional names: Alemtejo, Azeitão, Cardiga,

Ilha, Prato and Serra da Estrella.

Queso Anejo

_Mexico_

White, dry, skim milk.

Queso de Bola

_Mexico_

Whole milk, similar to Edam.

Queso de Cavallo

_Venezuela_

Pear-shaped cheese.

Quesos Cheeses: Blanco, Cartera and Palma Metida _see_ Venezuela.

Queso de Cincho

_Venezuela_

Hard, round orange balls weighing four pounds and wrapped in palm leaves.

Queso de Crema

_Costa Rica_

Similar to soft Brick.

Queso de Hoja, Leaf Cheese

_Puerto Rico_

Named from its appearance when cut, like leaves piled on top of each other.

Queso de Mano

_Venezuela_

Aromatic, sharp, in four-ounce packages.

Queso del Pais, Queso de la Tierra

_Puerto Rico_

White; pressed; semisoft Consumed locally,

Queso de Prensa

_Puerto Rico_

The name means pressed cheese. It is eaten either fresh or after

ripening two or three months.

Queso de Puna

_Puerto Rico_

Like U.S. cottage or Dutch cheese, eaten fresh.

Queso de Tapara

_Venezuela_

Made in Carora, near Barqisimeto, called _tapara_ from the shape and

tough skin of that local gourd. "It is very good fresh, but by the

time it arrives in Carora it is often bad and dry." D.K.K. in _Bueno

Provecho._

Queso Fresco

_El Salvador_

Cottage-cheese type.

Queville _see_ Chapter 3.

Queyras _see_ Champoléon.

R

Rabaçal

_Coimbra, Portugal_

Semisoft; sheep or goat; thick, round, four to five inches in

diameter. Pleasantly oily, if made from sheep milk.

Rabbit Cheese

_U.S.A._

A playful name for Cheddar two to three years old.

Radener

_Germany_

Hard; skim, similar to Emmentaler; made in Mecklenburg. Sixteen by

four inches, weight 32 pounds.

Radolfzeller Cream

_Germany, Switzerland, Austria_

Similar to Münster.

Ragnit _see_ Tilsit.

Rahmkäse, Allgäuer

_German_

Cream.

Rainbow

_Mexico_

Mild; mellow.

Ramadoux

_Belgium_

Soft; sweet cream; formed in cubes. Similar to Hervé

Rammil or Rammel

_England_

André Simon calls this "the best cheese made in Dorsetshire." Also

called Rammilk, because made from whole or "raw milk." Practically

unobtainable today.

Rangiport

_France_

A good imitation of Port-Salut made in Seine-et-Oise.

Rarush Durmar

_Turkey_

Brittle; mellow; nutty.

Rächerkäse

The name for all smoked cheese in Germanic countries, where it is very

popular.

Raviggiolo

_Tuscany, Italy_

Ewe's milk. Uncooked; soft; sweet; creamy.

Rayon or Raper

_Switzerland_

A blind Emmentaler called Rayon is shipped young to Italy, where it is

hardened by aging and then sold as Raper, for grating and seasoning.

Reblochon or Roblochon

_Savoy_

Sheep; soft; whole milk; in season from October to June. Weight one to

two pounds. A cooked cheese imitated as Brizecon in the same section.

Récollet de Gérardmer

_Vosges, France_

A harvest variety similar to Géromé, made from October to April.

Red

_Russia_

_see_ Livlander.

Red Balls

_Dutch_

_see_ Edam.

Reggiano _see_ Grana.

Regianito

_Argentine_

Italian Reggiano type with a name of its own, for it is not a mere

imitation in this land of rich milk and extra fine cheeses.

Reichkäse

_German_

Patriotically hailed as cheese of the empire, when Germany had one.

Reindeer

_Lapland, Iceland, Sweden, Norway_

In all far northern lands a type of Swiss is made from reindeer milk

It is lightly salted, very hard; and the Lapland production is

curiously formed, like a dumbbell with angular instead of round ends.

Relish cream cheese

_U.S.A._

Mixed with any piquant relish and eaten fresh.

Remoudon, or Fromage Piquant

_Belgium_

The two names combine in re-ground piquant cheese, and that's what it

is. The season is winter, from November to June.

Requeijão

_Portugal and Brazil_

Recooked.

Resurrection _see_ Welsh.

Rhubarbe

_France_

A type of Roquefort which, in spite of its name, is no relation to our

pie plant.

Riceys _see_ Champenois.

Ricotta Romano

_Italy_

Soft and fresh. The best is made from sheep buttermilk. Creamy,

piquant, with subtle fragrance. Eaten with sugar and cinnamon,

sometimes with a dusting of powdered coffee.

Ricotta

_Italy and U.S.A._

Fresh, moist, unsalted cottage cheese for sandwiches, salads, lasagne,

blintzes and many Italian dishes. It is also mixed with Marsala and

rum and relished for dessert Ricotta may be had in every Little Italy,

some of it very well made and, unfortunately, some of it a poor

substitute whey cheese.

Ricotta Salata

Hard; grayish white. Although its flavor is milk it is too hard and

too salty for eating as is, and is mostly used for grating.

Riesengebirge

_Bohemia_

Semisoft; goat or cow; delicate flavor, lightly smoked in Bohemia's

northern mountains.

Rinnen

_Germany_

This traditional Pomeranian sour-milk, caraway-seeded variety is named

from the wooden trough in which it is laid to drain.

Riola

_Normandy, France_

Soft; sheep or goat; sharp; resembles Mont d'Or but takes longer to

ripen, two to three months.

Robbiole

Robbiola

Robbiolini

_ Lombardy_

_ Italian_

Very similar to Crescenza (_see_.) Alpine winter cheese of fine

quality. The form is circular and flat, weighing from eight ounces to

two pounds, while Robbiolini, the baby of the family tips the scale at

just under four ounces.

Roblochon, le

Same as Reblochon. A delicious form of it is made of half-dried

sheep's milk in Le Grand Bornand.

Rocamadur

_Limousin, France_

Tiny sheep milk cheese weighing two ounces. In season November to May.

Rocroi

_France_

From the Champagne district.

Rokadur

_Yugoslavia_

Imitation Roquefort.

Roll

_England_

Hard cylinder, eight by nine inches, weighing twenty pounds.

Rollot or Rigolot

_Picardy and Montdidier, France_

Soft; fermented; mold-inoculated; resembles Brie and Camembert, but

much smaller. In season October to May. This is Picardy's one and only

cheese.

Roma

_Italy_

Soft cream.

Romadour, Romadura, and other national spellings

_Germany, Austria, Hungary, Switzerland_

A great Linburger. The eating season is from November to April. It is

not a summer cheese, especially in lands where refrigeration is

scarce. Fine brands are exported to America from several countries.

Romano, Romano Vacchino

_Italy_

Strong flavoring cheese like Parmesan and Pecorino.

Romanello

_U.S.A._

Similar to Romano Vacchino and Old Monterey Jack. Small grating

cheese, cured one year.

Roquefort

_France_

King of cheeses, with its "tingling Rabelaisian pungency." _See_

The Complete Book of Cheese · 第 2 / 3 章