_MARKED CARDS AND THE MANNER OF THEIR EMPLOYMENT_
Probably it was at no very recent date in the history of card-playing
that some genius first recognised the advantage which would accrue to a
player who could devise some means of placing a distinctive mark on the
back of each card, imperceptible to all but himself, to indicate its
suit and value. Every card-player must at some time or other have
exclaimed mentally, 'Oh, if I only knew what cards my opponents hold!'
There one has, then, the origin of marked cards. The sharp, above all
others, desires to know his opponent's cards. It is almost a necessity
of his existence; and in his case it is certainly true that 'necessity
is the mother of invention,' and 'knows no law.' Whatever the sharp may
find necessary he is sure to acquire, and will not be scrupulous as to
the manner of its acquisition.
The systems of card-marking are as numerous as they are ingenious. They
vary from a mark which covers the greater portion of the back of the
card to a mark which is invisible. This latter may not appear to be of
much utility, but it must be borne in mind the sharp is not restricted
to the use of the sense of sight only. Sometimes, indeed, it is
necessary for him to know the cards without looking at them, and then a
visible mark would be of no possible use to him.
So numerous, indeed, are the systems of marking--almost every
card-sharper, worthy of the name, having a system peculiar to
himself--that it is impossible to give a tenth part of them. To attempt
to do so would be to weary the reader, and, further, it is unnecessary.
All these various systems are capable of general classification, and a
few leading instances will suffice to give the key to the whole. For
brevity and convenience, then, we will consider the subject under the
following heads:--
A--General principles of marking.
B--The marking of unprinted backs.
C--Marking by dot and puncture.
D--Cards marked in manufacture.
E--Shading and tint-marking.
F--Line and scroll work.
G--Cards marked whilst in play.
§ A--_General principles of marking._--Whatever method of marking may be
adopted in the preparation of 'faked' cards or 'readers,' however
recondite that method may be, it is referable to one or other of two
general principles. That is to say, either the cards have each a
distinctive mark placed in some convenient position, or the mark is
similar in every case, the indication being given by the position which
it occupies. Some systems are based upon a combination of the two
principles; but all are developments of either one or the other. When
the mark, whatever it may be, is placed at one end of the card, it is of
course necessary to mark both ends.
The chief desideratum in marking, of course, is to produce work which is
easily decipherable to the trained eye of the expert, but which
nevertheless is invisible to others. How well this has been accomplished
will be seen from the examples which follow. Many of the specimens given
herein have been submitted to experts who have been allowed to retain
them as long as they pleased, and have been returned with the statement
that to all appearance the cards have not been tampered with, no mark
being discoverable. This being the case, what chance has a player of
detecting the falsification, in the very cursory examination which is
possible during play? As the reader will perceive, there is no
difficulty in marking cards in such a manner as will arouse no
suspicion. Anyone could invent a system which no one but himself could
decipher, and which would defy detection. The only difficulty is to read
the marks with speed and accuracy. In many games it is only necessary to
know which are high cards and which are low; then the matter is
considerably simplified. In some games it is not even necessary to know
the suit of the cards, and thus the case is simplified still further. It
is rarely, indeed, that the sharp requires to know all the cards.
Generally speaking, if all the picture-cards and the aces are marked,
that will give him all the advantage he needs. The rest may be left to
chance and good play. In fact, the sharp uses trickery as little as
possible; he never overdoes the thing. Whilst he is winning, he is, as a
rule, content to win fairly, for the most part. His subtle methods are
reserved--or should be, if he knows his business--for occasions when
chance is against him. The fewer are the cards which are marked, the
less the chance of detection, and the less the marks are resorted to the
better. Obviously, the man who has it in his power to stock his hand
with high cards at will, need never be in a hurry to win. The game is in
his hands. The sharp who uses marked cards will always contrive to 'work
in' those he has prepared when possible, but failing this, he is
generally in a position to mark all the cards he wishes to know during
the course of the game, as we shall see further on.
§ B--_The marking of unprinted backs._--It might very naturally be
supposed, that the application of any system of marking to the backs of
those cards which are of an even tint, without pattern, would be a very
difficult operation. Such, however, is by no means the case. One might
think that any mark, however slight, placed upon the plain white back of
a 'club-card,' must inevitably be discovered sooner or later. Such an
idea, nevertheless, would indicate a very scant acquaintance with the
resources which are available to the card-sharper.
One of the earliest methods of marking of which there is any record was
used in connection with this class of card. The incident is related by
Houdin, whose account of the matter is to the following effect.
A card-sharper having been detected in cheating, a great quantity of
cards were found in his possession. The authorities, thinking that there
might possibly be some preparation or falsification of them, sent them
to Houdin for examination. To all appearance, however, the cards were
perfectly genuine. He could detect nothing amiss with them. But
notwithstanding the negative result of his investigation, he felt
morally certain that they must have been tampered with in some way. He
therefore persevered in his efforts to solve the problem, but several
weeks elapsed, and still he found himself exactly in the position from
which he started. At length, disgusted by such prolonged and repeated
failure, he flung a pack of the cards carelessly across the table at
which he was sitting. Then, in an instant, the long-sought revelation
was presented to his view. The cards were marked, and in a manner
sufficiently ingenious to arouse the investigator's enthusiasm at the
time, although the method employed might not be thought so very high
class nowadays. We have advanced since then.
The cards in question were of the ordinary glazed kind, and lying at
some little distance upon the table the light from the window was
reflected from their backs. This circumstance disclosed the fact that
each one had a small unglazed spot upon it, placed in such a position as
to indicate the suit and value. Fig. 4 will explain the system at a
glance.
The glaze is removed by the simple expedient of putting a drop of water
upon the required spot, and blotting it off after a few seconds. Such a
mark is quite invisible under ordinary circumstances, but when the cards
are held at a suitable angle to the light, the unglazed spot is readily
apparent.
This, of course, is not the only method of producing the desired effect.
Sometimes the glaze is removed by means of a sharp knife.
Another plan is to produce a shallow concavity at the proper position by
laying the card upon its face and pressing upon it with the rounded end
of a penholder or some similar and convenient instrument. In fact,
anything which will cause a little variation in the reflection of the
light from the back of the card will suffice.
The cards above referred to were merely 'picquet' packs. Therefore there
was nothing lower than the 'seven.' If it is necessary to mark a full
pack, the lower cards may be marked with two dots, as shown in fig. 4.
When unglazed, or 'steam-boat' cards were in general use, a very
efficient mode of marking was devised. It was done by ruling lines on
the backs with a piece of paraffin wax. Fig. 3 shows the arrangement.
This method is of course the converse of the foregoing, the object of
using the wax being to impart a glaze where none previously existed. As
before, these marks are only decipherable when the cards are held at a
proper angle.
[Illustration: FIG. 3.--Unglazed Cards.]
Cards marked as in fig. 3 would answer perfectly for a game such as
'poker,' where the suit is of no consequence. If it is required to give
both suit and value, another mark--a dot for example--could be added,
the position of which would give the necessary indication. The ace, it
will be observed, is not marked. In most systems, either the ace or the
two is indicated by the absence of marking. The same thing applies to
the suits, it is only required to mark three out of the four.
§ C--_Marking by dot and puncture._--The main outlines of this method
will be understood from what has already been said. If the unglazed
spots are represented by minute dots, the principle is practically the
same. The only difference is in connection with marking by puncture. In
this case the mark is made by pricking the card with a very fine needle
upon its face. This raises a minute point or 'burr' upon the back, which
can be detected by passing the thumb across the back of the card whilst
dealing.
[Illustration: FIG. 4.--Divisions indicating suit and value.]
If a plate of metal the size of a playing-card is divided at each end
into parallelograms, after the manner shown in fig. 4, these divisions
will represent the positions occupied by the puncture or dot in
representing the various suits and values. A small hole being drilled in
the centre of each parallelogram, the plate will serve for a 'template'
by means of which the cards may be pierced in the correct places. The
plate is laid upon the face of the card, and a fine needle is pricked
through the proper hole, just far enough to raise the necessary
projection on the back of the card. One point at each end, then, will
serve to mark all the cards of a picquet pack. If those cards which are
lower than seven have to be marked, two points may be taken. For
instance, a point in the top left-hand corner, together with one three
divisions further to the right, will indicate the six of clubs. A point
in the second space on the same line, with one in the fifth space, will
represent the five of clubs, and so on. This is a very good system of
marking for many purposes. It takes only a short time to mark the whole
pack; the marks are invisible, and will escape the closest scrutiny. But
great practice is necessary to render the touch sufficiently acute, and
the perception of the small differences sufficiently delicate, to read
the marks with precision.
[Illustration: FIG. 5.]
Another method whereby a single dot is made to represent both suit and
value of any card is illustrated in fig. 5. In every ornamental back
almost, there is some portion of the pattern which is more or less of a
fan-shaped or radial design. If this should happen to contain thirteen
divisions, nothing is easier than to assign to each one a value, and
thus the entire suit is represented by merely varying the position of
the dot. The suit is given by placing the dot nearer or farther from
the centre. Fig. 5 is a diagram which illustrates this method in its
simplest form. A dot placed outside the periphery of the design stands
for 'spades,' one just inside for 'hearts,' half-way between the two
lines for 'diamonds,' and close to the inner circle it means 'clubs.'
The value or 'size,' as it is called, is shown by the radial line,
opposite which the mark is placed. Having followed this explanation, the
reader will at once perceive that the dot marked _a_ (fig. 5) represents
the two of diamonds.
Of course it frequently happens that there is no part of the pattern
which contains thirteen divisions. Then, either more than one design
must be used, or the form of the mark must be varied. Supposing there
are only six divisions available for the purpose, the six highest cards
can be indicated by a dot, the six next in order by a small dash, and
the last by a minute cross.
§ D--_Cards marked [Illustration: squiggle] in manufacture._--Given the
original conception of marked cards, and their practical application to
the needs of the sharper, the next step is, obviously, the production of
such wares commercially. The desirability of being able to open a new
pack of cards and find them ready prepared for use, was too palpable to
be overlooked.
For a long time the existence of such cards was kept profoundly secret
among a very few sharpers, and those 'in the know' reaped a rich
harvest. Nowadays, however, these things are, comparatively speaking,
'common objects of the sea-shore.'
Fig. 6 is a reproduction of the first pattern ever supplied, ready
marked, by the makers.
[Illustration: FIG. 6.]
The distinctive marking was arranged by causing the end of the scroll,
marked '_a_,' to assume various forms, and point in different
directions.
This card did very well for a time; but the mark was very obtrusive and
the pattern became obsolete, being discarded, in fact, for improved
forms which were of later invention.
The next step in the way of improvement came with the introduction of
the plaid-back cards, at one time largely used. It was soon discovered
that these lent themselves readily to the purposes of falsification, and
the result was the invention of a mark both easy to read and not liable
to detection. Like so many other good things, it is marvellous in its
simplicity. It is based partly upon modification of the pattern, and
partly upon the position occupied by the mark. Fig. 7 illustrates a
complete suit of these cards.
The higher cards commence with a set of five parallel lines, placed
somewhat to the left of the top right-hand corner. The space between the
first and second lines is increased to indicate an ace; between the
second and third, a king; between the third and fourth, a queen; and
between the fourth and fifth, a knave. For the ten, nine, eight, and
seven, the pattern is so arranged that the indicating lines terminate at
the corner of the card. These being similarly treated, correspond with
the four cards of that group. The six, five, four, and three, are
respectively given by a similar band, which is so placed that it
terminates upon the right hand side of the card, immediately below the
top corner. The two is known by the fact of the card being unmarked;
that is to say, the lines of all the bands are an equal distance apart,
and are not tampered with in any way.
The suit is given by a band of lines, terminating some little distance
below the top left-hand corner, on the left of the card. The first space
(counting from the top) being widened, signifies a diamond; the second,
a heart; the third, a club; and the fourth, a spade. If the reader has
made the progress in 'sharping' which might reasonably be expected at
this stage of his instruction, he should have no difficulty in
distinguishing the suit of the ace in fig. 7. It is evidently the ace of
clubs.
[Illustration: FIG. 7.]
This pattern is of especial value to the man who can deal 'seconds,'[2]
as in giving off the 'draft' at poker, and so on, by keeping the pack
spread out a little, he can read off the values of the first four or
five cards. That is the great advantage in having marks which come quite
close to the edge.
We will conclude this subject of printed backs with a description of one
of the best designs ever made (fig. 8). This pattern is particularly
easy to read, even at a considerable distance, yet it is certainly not
liable to detection by the uninitiated. To anyone who knows the
secret, it appears strange that a pack of these cards may be given to a
novice for examination, with the information that they are marked, and
he will never find anything wrong with them. He may even examine them
with a microscope, yet he will see nothing amiss. The reason is that he
does not know what to look for. Most probably he will expect to find
dots or marks, _put on_ the card by hand. He might thus detect 'scroll
work,' examples of which are given further on, though most likely
'shading' would escape his notice from the fact that it is something for
which he is not prepared.
In this instance the distinguishing marks are two in number, one for
suit and one for value. These are respectively indicated by variations
in the form of the two small sprays in the left hand corner, round which
lines have been drawn in the upper card (fig. 8).
[Illustration: FIG. 8.]
The lower of the two sprays is caused to show the suit by being curved
up or down, or having its termination formed into a suggestion of a
spade or a heart, as will be seen on reference to the figure.
The upper spray is variously altered to denote the values. Thus:
[Illustration: FIG. 9.]
Cards marked in printing have of late years been virtually abandoned in
America, owing to the fact that they are readily detected, even by those
who are utterly unable to discover the marks. The general appearance of
the cards is sufficient to show their origin. In the first place, the
ink with which the cards are printed is as a rule very inferior; and
secondly, the 'ace of spades' has NOT the maker's name upon it. As the
maker himself would say--'What do _you_ think?'
Fig. 10 is a comparison of the ace of spades from a genuine pack with
that from a pack of manufactured 'marked backs.' It will be seen that
the marked card bears the title of a purely hypothetical 'Card Company.'
[Illustration: FIG. 10.
Genuine Card. Manufactured Marked-back.]
By referring to the price-lists given towards the end of this book, one
finds that the price at which they are quoted is by no means exorbitant,
when one bears in mind the risk which the maker runs, and the fact that
he has to go to the expense of fifty-two plates for printing the backs,
as against the one only which is required for genuine cards. In revenge,
and to keep down the cost of production, he uses ink of a very inferior
quality to that employed by good firms. Thus, the cards are rendered
open to suspicion from the first, and no doubt this has much to do with
their falling into disuse.
In America their employment is confined chiefly to mining camps, where
one may still find 'saloons' which are stocked entirely with this kind
of 'paper,' as the cards are called.
England, however, must be a fine field for them, as card players here
are really so ignorant that the subtle methods of cheating would be
thrown away. The best work is not necessary, and the sharp who went to
the trouble of adopting it would be simply wasting his substance on the
desert air. There is little doubt that these cards are largely used over
here.
§ E--_Shading and tint-marking._--Manufactured cards having fallen into
comparative desuetude, the reasonable inference is that they have been
supplanted by something better; and such is the fact. In the hands of
the best men they have been superseded by genuine cards, marked
(generally by the sharp himself) either with 'shading' or 'line-work.'
The earliest method of shading, so far as can be ascertained, consisted
of the application to plain-backed cards of an even tint which, being
rendered more or less deep, denoted the values of certain cards. This
tint was produced by rubbing the card with a rag, lightly impregnated
with plumbago, until the required depth of tint was obtained. This
imperfect method, however, has gradually developed into others which can
hardly be said to leave anything to be desired--at least from the
sharp's point of view.
At the present time shading is principally confined, if not entirely so,
to ornamental backs. It is effected by applying a faint wash of colour
to a fairly large portion of the card. This colour of course must be one
which approximates to the tint of the card, and further, it must be one
which will dry without removing the glaze.
Just as there has been continual warfare between the makers of heavy
guns and the inventors of armour-plating, so there has been a long
struggle between the playing-card manufacturer and the professional
gambler. Whilst the latter has been engaged in the endeavour to concoct
a stain with which he could shade his cards without spoiling the enamel
or altering the colour, the former has done his best to circumvent the
sharp's endeavours by compounding the glaze of ingredients which will
spoil the 'little game.' For some time the manufacturer triumphed, and
it became known that Hart's red 'Angel-backs' were unstainable. Alas!
however, vice--and, shall we say science--was victorious, and one can
now buy a fluid warranted to stain any card for a mere trifle.
These fluids are nothing more than solutions in spirit of various
aniline dyes. For red, aurosine is used, and for blue aniline blue.
Stafford's red ink, diluted with spirit, produces a perfect stain for
red cards. Others as good can be made with the 'Diamond' dyes.
A suitable solution having been obtained, the cards are shaded, either
by putting a wash over a certain spot or by washing over the whole of
the back with the exception of one spot. The latter method is the better
of the two in many respects, as the cards can be distinguished at a
distance of two or three yards, and yet will bear the strictest
examination, even at the hands of one who understands the former method.
In fact, the closer one looks at the cards the less likely one is to
discover the mark, or, as the sharp would say, to 'tumble' to the
'fake.'
The directions for use issued with the shading fluids will be found on
page 302.
As the delicate tints of shaded work are lost in reproduction,
satisfactory examples cannot be given. On the opposite page, however,
will be found an illustration of one method of shading the familiar
'angel-back' card represented in fig. 11.
[Illustration: FIG. 11.--Angel-back.]
The shading in fig. 12 has been considerably exaggerated, to render it
apparent.
[Illustration: FIG. 12.--'FALLEN ANGELS']
The little 'angel' (_a_, fig. 11) is made to indicate the value of the
cards by shading the head for an ace; the right wing for a king; the
left wing for a queen; the right arm for a knave, and so on. The two is
not marked.
The suit of the card is denoted by shading various portions of the
foliated design adjacent to the 'angel' (_b_, fig. 11).
With the exception of the exaggerated shading, these marks are
facsimiles of those upon a pack purchased from one of the dealers, all
of whom supply them. Although the cards can be bought ready shaded, most
sharpers prefer to do them for themselves. Therefore, they merely buy
the marking-fluids, and invent their own marks.
§ F--_Line and scroll work._--This is the kind of marking which is
adopted by the most expert among card-sharpers. When well done it can
hardly be detected even by another sharper.
This system may be briefly summarised as follows. Some convenient
portion of the card-back is selected--a flower or some similar device in
the pattern, for instance--and a shading consisting of very fine lines,
in imitation of the normal shading of the pattern, is used, its position
indicating the value of the card. A specially prepared 'line-work fluid'
is used, and the work is put on with a fine pen or, better still, with a
fine sable pencil. In using a pen there is always a danger of scratching
the enamel, but by the use of a 'photographic sable,' such as retouchers
employ, this is obviated.
In order to imbue the reader with a due appreciation of these works of
art, our first example shall be one of a very obvious character; one
that could only be used in a 'soft game.'[3] We shall then have an
opportunity of comparing it with one or two of the masterpieces of the
century, and, looking back upon the earlier pages of this book, we can
reflect upon the manner in which the science of card-sharping is
progressing, like other and more legitimate sciences.
A portion of the pattern, consisting of five projections, is usually
chosen in line-marking, and the line-work is applied in the following
manner. The first projection, or petal, on the left, is shaded to denote
an ace; the second a king; the third a queen; the fourth a knave; and
the fifth a ten. Then for a nine, the first and second are shaded; for
an eight the second and third; and so on to the six. Lastly, taking the
foliations in groups of three, the first three represent the five; the
second, third, and fourth, the four; and the third, fourth, and fifth,
the three. The two is not shaded.
[Illustration: FIG. 13.]
In the case of the card which is reproduced in fig. 13, the spray of
leaves marked _a_ would be chosen to indicate the values. The spray _b_
would be shaded to denote the suit. Reference to fig. 14 will serve to
make this clear.
[Illustration: FIG. 14.]
Having mastered this elementary method, we will now turn to some of the
finest work that has ever been put upon cards. Fig. 15 illustrates five
cards of the 'angel-back' pattern. These are respectively the king,
queen, knave, ten, and nine. It is not too much to say that the mark
would never be discovered without assistance being given, by one
previously acquainted with it.
[Illustration: FIG. 15.--SCROLL-WORK]
In this example the spray marked _c_ (fig. 11) is chosen, and marked in
a manner of which fig. 16 is a magnified diagram.
[Illustration: FIG. 16.]
As a concluding example of line-work, if the reader will turn back to
fig. 8, he will find, in each corner of the pattern upon the card, a
leaf with five points, an ivy leaf in fact. In marking a genuine
card of this pattern, this leaf would be selected for the purpose, and
shaded with line-work after the manner of fig. 17.
[Illustration: FIG. 17.]
_Cards marked whilst in play._--We now arrive at the last subdivision of
this branch of our subject, and perhaps the one which will prove most
generally interesting, viz. the possibility of placing distinctive marks
upon the cards during the course of the game. The average reader may
probably be surprised to learn that such a practice has been resorted to
by sharpers from time immemorial. Further, its accomplishment presents
not the slightest difficulty, in fact it is the simplest thing in the
world.
The earliest method appears to have been that of raising a slight burr
upon the edges of the cards with an instrument provided--perhaps for
that purpose(?)--by Nature, to wit, the thumb-nail. This and other
primitive methods alike have been superseded by others more scientific.
Therefore we will not waste our time in detailing such elementary
matters, but pass on to the means used at the present day.
One of the simplest appliances is the 'nail prick,' quoted in the
price-lists at half a dollar. This is simply a tiny piece of metal,
carrying a point, which is held when in use under the thumb-nail of the
right hand. With this point the cards can be pricked without
observation, in positions which will indicate the suit and value. It is,
however, not much used.
Pricking the cards is a method chiefly employed by men who can deal
'seconds.' The sharp will prick the corners of all the aces and court
cards, or as many of them as happen to fall into his hands, from time to
time; and whilst dealing, he can feel the little projection caused by
the prick, and hold these cards back till they could be dealt to
himself. One who did this every time it came to his turn to deal must
inevitably win all the money sooner or later. No sharp, however, would
be insane enough to arouse suspicion in this manner.
The most refined and scientific method of pricking the cards is by means
of an ingenious little appliance, known as the 'poker-ring.' This is an
ordinary finger-ring, having attached to it upon the under side a
needle-point of about one sixty-fourth of an inch in length (fig. 18).
In the illustration, the length of the point is exaggerated.
[Illustration: FIG. 18.]
As the cards are held in the hand, the corner of any one which it is
desired to mark is simply pressed against the point with the thumb of
either hand. Thus with one hand the sharp is enabled to mark any card he
chooses, under the very eyes of his adversaries, and without a single
suspicious movement being observable.
But the greatest advance in this direction was made when the art of
marking cards with shade-work was discovered. It was found that a little
aniline colour, taken upon the tip of the finger, could be transferred
to the back of a card slightly deepening the tint in the spot to which
it was applied. The colour was at first derived from a piece of blue
aniline pencil, carried in the pocket, and upon the point of which the
finger was secretly rubbed. As far as one can ascertain, the English
sharp has not progressed beyond this point in his professional
knowledge. In America, however, it is otherwise. Across the water,
superior intelligences soon concocted a coloured paste which would
answer the purpose much better. Scooping a hole in a piece of cork, the
cavity was filled with the composition, and the cork was sewn inside the
lower edge of the waistcoat. In this position the colour was convenient
to the hand.
The idea thus conceived has been improved upon until one may say that
this method has reached perfection in the form of appliances known as
'shading boxes.'
[Illustration: FIG. 19.]
These implements of chicanery, of which fig. 19 is an illustration, are
little nickel-plated boxes, which are completely filled with the
coloured composition. In the centre of the lid is a slot through which
the colour is pressed. The finger being passed over this slot, takes up
a little of the colour. The base of the box is pierced around the
circumference with small holes, for convenience in sewing it to the
inside of the waistcoat or underneath the flap of a side pocket, as may
be preferred. The boxes are generally used in pairs, one containing red
composition and the other blue. With these two colours, almost every
coloured card can be marked. The paste for refilling the boxes is
supplied separately, or, if the sharp is acquainted with its
composition, he may make it for himself. Here is the recipe.
Olive oil, stearine, and camphor are incorporated in a melted condition
with aniline of the required hue. The mixture is then poured out upon a
level surface and allowed to cool. When cold it is worked up with the
blade of a knife upon a sheet of white paper, to get rid of the
superfluous oil. It is then ready for use.
Marking placed upon cards in this way can be instantly removed by merely
rubbing the card upon the table-cloth.
It is worthy of note that these boxes are considered to be so good that
they are not included in the catalogues of dealers in so-called
'sporting-goods.' They are kept as a secret among those who are 'in the
know.'
These convenient little articles, then, bring us to the end of the
systems of marking. It only remains to instruct the neophyte who has
followed the course of our lessons so far, in the methods of utilising
the marks when once they are placed upon the cards.
Those familiar words of the great artist who said that the medium he
employed in mixing his colours was 'brains,' may find an echo in the
directions for playing marked cards. They must be used with intelligence
or not at all. Indeed, great circumspection is requisite in utilising
the information which the marks provide. In a game of whist, for
instance, a thorough-paced player would at once detect any glaring
peculiarity of play resulting from knowledge surreptitiously acquired.
One may know, perfectly well, which card in one's hand would win the
trick, but it is not always advisable to play it. Tact and judgment,
added to a thorough acquaintance with the rules of the game which is
being played, are necessary adjuncts to the successful employment of any
system of cheating.
In a round game, when it is your turn to deal, you may read the cards as
you deal them; and in this way know the hands of your opponents, or at
any rate the principal cards. In a single-handed game you can remember
the whole of your antagonist's cards, but with more than two players it
is not advisable to attempt to commit to memory more than one hand.
That, preferably, should be the hand of the 'flattest man,' the
'greatest mug,' the man who is playing highest, or your most dangerous
opponent. With a little practice the top card of the pack can be read,
just before it is dealt. There is plenty of time for this whilst the
previous card is on its way to the table. In a game such as Poker, where
the suit is of no consequence, you simply repeat to yourself the value
of the card as you deal it, and from your knowledge of the game you may
deduce the discards from that particular hand. Then, in giving off the
'draft'--_i.e._ the cards to replace those which have been discarded,
and which, of course, you have not seen--you read the cards as they are
given out. In this way you can form a tolerably accurate opinion as to
what cards that hand finally contains. If your hand happens to be
better, you can bet against this particular player, continually raising
the stakes until all the other players are 'raised out.' That is to say,
they do not feel inclined to risk so much money on their hands, and
therefore they throw them down, and leave the game, for the moment, in
the hands of the two highest players.
A knowledge of the top card may be utilised in dealing 'seconds.' The
top card, being one which you require, may be kept back until it comes
to your turn either on the deal or the draft. This, however, is a very
bad way of using marked cards. It is sure to be detected sooner or
later, and then your only course will be to 'clear out' from the scene
of your former victories. Whilst, if you confine your attention to the
use of the information given by the marks, trusting to your wits rather
than to the deftness of your fingers, you will not only win but 'last.'
Working with shaded cards, in which the shading occupies the greater
portion of the card, many of your opponents' cards can be read as they
hold them in their hands; especially where they are held spread out, as
is so often the case in England.
Whatever may be the game, marked cards will often enable you to win
where you otherwise would lose, so long as due care and judgment are
exercised. For example, at Vingt-et-un, you will always know whether it
is advisable to draw another card or not. You will not stand in doubt as
to the card you will get. At Baccarat you will know what cards you have
given the players, and what you will draw if you take one. Too many
false drafts, however, are liable to create suspicion; so in this game
you must be careful in your proceedings. At Loo, you will have a strong
advantage, as you will always know the contents of the hand upon the
table, and when to take 'miss.' In games such as 'Banker' or 'Polish
Bank,' which consist of betting that you have in your hand a card (not
seen) which will beat one that has been turned up, you have to contend
with no uncertainty whatever.
Having pursued our subject to this point, it cannot be denied that we
have learnt something of great importance, viz. that among the
advantages enjoyed by us in this nineteenth century, we must not
overlook those embodied in the fact, that not only are marked cards
articles of commerce, readily obtainable at the right places, but we
have also the means of falsifying genuine cards, of any pattern, at a
few minutes' notice. Even failing this, we have at our command means of
marking all the cards which it is necessary to know whilst under the
very noses of our antagonists.
The practical philosopher--if such exist--whilst meditating upon the
benefits accruing to mankind from civilisation, should by no means
forget that, in one notable instance at least--card-playing to
wit--civilisation has provided the means of eliminating from the affairs
of life the undesirable and inconvenient element of chance. There is no
such thing as chance, says the predestinationist; and certainly in some
cases the truth is with him.
FOOTNOTES:
[2] _Vide_ Chapter VI., 'Manipulation.'
[3] This expression does not apply, as might be imagined, to the
comparative simplicity of the game, but rather to the positive
simplicity of the players.