RETURN TO CHANTABOUN--EXCURSION TO BATTAMBONG--THE ISLANDS OF
KOH KONG--ISLAND OF PHU QUOC--BEAUTIFUL PROSPECT IN THE GULF OF
KOMPUT--CAMBODIA--COMMERCE OF THESE COUNTRIES--MISERABLE STATE OF THE
PEOPLE--VISIT TO THE KING OF CAMBODIA.
Immediately on my return to Chantaboun, where I was again received with
open arms by the good Abbé Raufaing, a French missionary associated
as colleague with Father Larmandy, I began to collect information as
to the best route to Battambong, the chief town of a province of the
same name, which, above a century ago, was wrested from Cambodia by
the Siamese. I made an agreement with some pagan Annamite fishermen
to give them thirty ticals for taking me from Chantaboun to Komput, a
province of Cambodia. The Annamite Christians demanded forty ticals,
and provisions both going and returning. After taking leave of the
abbé, who had shown me every possible kindness and attention on each of
my visits, I embarked at noon, in spite of a heavy rain, as I wished to
take advantage of a high tide. We arrived in the harbour at seven in
the evening, and were detained there for two days by a contrary wind,
too violent to allow us to leave without danger.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Sabatier, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot
VIEW OF BATTAMBONG.]
EXCURSION TO BATTAMBONG.
Two days later we reached Ko-Khut, where, again, pouring rain and a
head wind compelled us to anchor about 100 metres from the shore in
a small bay which was far from promising much security to our little
craft. Our position was not agreeable; our frail bark, rudely tossed
by the furious waves, seemed every moment in danger of being dashed
upon the rocks. Our baggage, to which we had assigned the best place
for preservation from wet, occupied three-fourths of the boat, and we
were crowded five of us together in the bows, with no better shelter
than some palm-leaves sewn together, through which the water dripped,
and kept us continually soaked. The rain falling without intermission,
we could not keep the fire alight to cook our rice, and for four days
remained half-lying in the boat, scarcely able to move in the narrow
space left for us, and our clothes clinging to us with wet. At last,
on the fifth day, we had the pleasure of seeing the sky clear up and
the wind change. About two o’clock in the afternoon, foreseeing a
fine night, and having revived the drooping courage of my men by a
stiff dose of arrack, we weighed anchor and left Ko-Khut with a fair
breeze. It was quite a comfort to be able to move and breathe freely,
and I spent a part of the night under my little awning of palm-leaves,
enjoying the beauty of the heavens and the rapid movement of the
vessel. At daybreak we perceived, about ten miles distant, the first
of the islands of Koh-Kong. It is smaller than Koh-Chang, and neither
so imposing in general appearance nor having such a splendid range
of peaked hills. The island is nearly a desert, but it produces the
beautiful cardamom, as also gamboge, collected from the bamboos, which
the natives split open when hard.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
LEECH-FISHERS ON THE ISLE OF SAMET.]
BEAUTIFUL PROSPECT.
I soon forgot the miseries of the first part of our voyage, and was
amply recompensed by the shifting scenes of beauty presented to us by
the group of islands we were passing. At length we reached the advanced
posts of the pirates of Komput, from the heights of which they keep a
look-out, and, as soon as a sail comes in sight, make preparations for
an attack. We had no cause for fear, having no merchandise to tempt
them; and, moreover, we were all well armed. About five in the evening
we cast anchor in a little bay, where we cooked our rice, and my men
lay down to take some repose, having had none the night previous. We
were a day and a half’s sail from Komput, and at midnight we resumed
our voyage, gently rocked by the waves and favoured by a light breeze.
After passing the island of Phu-Quoc, which belongs to Cochin China,
the view became more and more beautiful; land surrounded us on all
sides, and we seemed to be sailing on a lake. The scenery in this gulf
is truly enchanting. Eastward extend the coast and islands of Cochin
China as far as Ita Jienne, and to the north and west are those of
Cambodia, crowned by a mountain 900 metres in height, which is so
like Sabab that Phrai called out to the pilot, “You are taking us
back to Chantaboun; there is Mount Sabab.” We were not, however,
long permitted to enjoy the splendid picture here displayed before
us, for very shortly after our entrance into the gulf large black
clouds, gathering at the summit of the mountain, by degrees hid it
entirely from view, the thunder growled, and a terrific wind arose,
which hurried our boat along at an extraordinary rate. The pilot at
the helm shook all over, and begged for arrack to sustain his strength
and courage. When the storm had lasted half an hour a heavy rain began
to descend, and with it the wind moderated. We had now arrived at the
mouth of the river on which Komput is situated.
It happened to be the day fixed for the King of Cambodia, then in
Komput, to pass in review all the ships lying in the roads; but
for some time he had been detained by the rough weather in a sort
of apartment erected for him on piles, in a place where the water
was shallow. As we passed the Custom-house, we perceived the royal
_cortége_ advancing towards a large junk, which his Majesty was having
built as a trading-vessel for Singapore.
THE KOMPUT RIVER.
The river leading to Komput is about 300 metres in width, but, rising
in the neighbouring mountains, its course is but very limited. The
magnificent tree called by the Siamese Mai-Jakienne, and much prized
by the Chinese for furnishing masts for their junks, is found in great
abundance in the forests bordering its banks. There are frequently six
or seven ships loading at one time in the roads, so that both Chinese
and European vessels may be constantly seen going up and down the
stream.
KOMPUT.
Though Komput is now the only port of Cambodia, it is far from being
as full of life and bustle as Bangkok, for the town boasts only 300
houses at most, and a population scarcely equal to that of Chantaboun.
All its little commerce is supplied by Lower Cochin China, the ports of
which are almost always closed against Europeans, so that rice, which
is imported in a sort of contraband manner, some tons of gamboge, a
little ivory, fish taken in the lake by the Annamites, a small quantity
of cotton, and the valuable wood above mentioned, constitute the whole
of the commerce of the town; and I venture to predict that, when the
ports of Annam are thrown open to Europeans, the Chinese merchants
will abandon Komput altogether. And yet, under a better system of
government, this country might supply a great number of articles, of
which I will speak hereafter. It will not probably be long before what
remains of this unfortunate land will fall under the dominion of some
other power. Possibly, France has her eyes fixed upon it, with the view
of annexing it to her possessions in Lower Cochin China.
The comparative exemption from heavy taxes and duties which the
Cambodians enjoy, when compared with the Siamese, made me imagine
I should be able to live here in comfort and abundance; but I was
disappointed. Almost every vice seemed prevalent at Komput--pride,
insolence, cheating, cowardice, servility, excessive idleness, are
the attributes of this miserable people. It is often remarked that no
one should judge a country through which he is merely a traveller, and
that only those are capable of doing so who have resided in it for some
time. I admit that, in the first case, one is liable to make mistakes;
but I state here what I see, and give my impressions as I receive them,
leaving it to more experienced travellers to correct me where I am in
error. Nevertheless, the first impression often proves ineffaceable,
and I may mention that frequently I have trusted less to my own
judgment than to the experience of others.
CUSTOM-HOUSE BEGGARS.
There are few travellers in Europe, America, or probably anywhere else,
who have not had cause to complain of the offensive manner in which
custom-house officers perform their duties, and often exceed them. In
Europe they earn their daily bread by annoying in every possible way
the unfortunates who are compelled, for the sake of peace, to submit
to their insolence and tyranny: here they gain it by begging; they are
licensed beggars. “A little salt-fish, a little arrack, a little betel,
if you please,”--such are the petitions; and the more you give, the
less strict will the search be.
After having sailed up the pretty river for about a mile, we came in
sight of a house covered with creepers, and surmounted by a cross,
which indicated the residence of the Abbé Hestrest, the head of the
foreign mission here. Reader, have you journeyed in foreign lands?
Have you ever for a time, more or less long, been separated from your
friends and relatives--shut out from civilized society? Have you
been tossed about by tempests or buffeted by your fellow-men? Have
you narrowly escaped some great danger? Have you been unhappy? Have
you lost some one very dear to you? In one word, have you _suffered_?
If you have, you will appreciate the feelings with which the solitary
wanderer welcomes the divine cross, the heart-stirring emblem of his
religion. It is to him a friend, a consoler, a father, a brother; at
sight of it the soul expands, and the more you have suffered the better
you will love it. You kneel down, you pray, you forget your griefs, and
you feel that God is with you. This is what I did.
THE ABBÉ HESTREST.
I had letters to the Abbé Hestrest from several of the missionaries
in Siam. We therefore anchored, and I landed; but the nine days’
inactivity to which I had been forced to submit had so cramped my
limbs, that for a time I had almost lost the use of them, and could
scarcely walk. The abbé received me like a brother, and offered
me accommodation in his humble abode until I could find lodgings
elsewhere. The first piece of news which he imparted to me was, that
France was at war with Austria. I did not even know that there had been
a difference between the two Governments.
INTRODUCED TO THE KING.
Scarcely had I landed when the return of the king from his aquatic
excursion was announced. The Abbé Hestrest conducted me to the banks of
the river; and as soon as his Majesty perceived a stranger by the side
of the priest, he gave orders to his rowers to approach the shore, and,
when within hail, addressed the abbé:
“Who is the stranger with you?”
“Sire, a Frenchman,” replied my companion.
“A Frenchman?” repeated the king, quickly. Then turning to me, “You are
French?”
“Yes, sire,” I answered, in Siamese.
“Monsieur comes from Paris,” said the abbé; “but he has recently
visited Siam.”
“And what does he come to my kingdom for?”
“He has a particular mission, which has nothing to do with politics;
it is merely to see the country. M. Mouhot will soon wait upon your
majesty.”
After a few minutes’ silence, the king, waving his hand, and saying
“_Au revoir_,” passed on.
I was at first afraid that the abbé had made me pass for a less humble
and modest individual than I really was, and I should be forbidden
the kingdom. The very name of France is full of dread to these poor
monarchs; and this present one lived in daily fear of seeing the French
flag waving in the roads. He is about sixty years of age, short and
stout. He wears his hair cut rather close, and his countenance is
good-natured, mild, and intelligent.[13]
[13] Since M. Mouhot’s journey, this king has died, and has been
succeeded by his second son, a revolution in favour of the elder
brother proving unsuccessful.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Pelcoq, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
FAVOURITE WIFE OF THE KING OF CAMBODIA.]
THE FAVOURITE WIFE.
The king was reclining on a thick cushion in the stern of his boat,
which was of European build. Four rowers and a dozen young girls were
with him; and among the latter I remarked one, whose features were
delicate and pretty, dressed in the European style, and wearing long
hair. She would have been reckoned a pretty girl anywhere, and was, I
fancy, the favourite, for she was in a richer costume than the others,
and covered with jewels. She also occupied the place nearest the king,
and seemed to pay great attention to her old adorer. The rest were fat,
with bloated faces and vulgar features, and had their teeth blackened
by betel and arrack. Besides a kind of petticoat, the corners of which
are looped up and fastened to the sash behind, some wore a tight
jacket, white or blue, buttoning over the chest; and had a red scarf,
which, according to the custom of the Siamese and Cambodian women, was
passed round the body under the arms, and tied at the bosom.
MUN SUY THE PIRATE.
Behind the king’s boat, in no apparent order, and at long intervals,
followed those of several mandarins, who were not distinguished in any
particular manner. One boat alone, manned by Chinese, and commanded by
a fat man of the same nation, holding in his hand a halberd surmounted
by a crescent, attracted my attention, as it headed the escort. This
man was the famous Mun Suy, chief of the pirates, and a friend of the
king. I was told that, two years before, he had been compelled, owing
to some iniquities not very well known, to fly from Amoy, and had
arrived at Komput with a hundred followers, adventurers and rovers
of the sea like himself. After having remained there for some time,
keeping the whole place in terror, and extorting by menaces all he
could from the market people, he conceived the project of seizing upon
and burning the town, and putting all the inhabitants to the sword,
intending then to retreat with his spoils, if not strong enough to hold
his ground. Fortunately the plot was discovered, and the Cambodians
from the neighbourhood were armed and assembled in readiness to
defend the place. Mun Suy, not liking the aspect of affairs, embarked
with his band in his junk, and fell suddenly on Itatais. The market
was sacked in a minute; but the inhabitants, recovering from their
surprise, repulsed the pirates and drove them back to their vessel
with the loss of several men. Mun Suy then returned to Komput, gained
over by presents first the governor and afterwards the king himself,
and ever since has carried on his piratical acts with impunity,
making his name dreaded by all around. Loud complaints arose from the
neighbouring countries, and the king, either overawed by the pirate, or
for protection against the Annamites, appointed him commander of the
coast-guard. Henceforth, therefore, he became a licensed robber, and
murder and rapine increased to such a degree, that the King of Siam
sent a naval expedition to Komput to capture the malefactor and his
gang. Two only were taken and executed. As for their leader, he was
hidden, they say, in the palace.
MARKET-PLACE OF KOMPUT.
Some days after my arrival I was installed in a house built by the
king’s orders, and at his own expense, for the accommodation of
European merchants, who, however, do not often visit Komput. Abbé
Hestrest conducted me through the city. The market-place, occupied
chiefly by the Chinese, is covered by a number of thatched huts built
of bamboo, in which are exhibited for sale, glass, china, hatchets,
knives, Chinese parasols, and other articles of merchandise, native
and foreign. The dealers in fish and vegetables, and the Chinese
_restaurateurs_, dispute the street with pigs, hungry dogs, and
children of all ages and both sexes, in a state of nature, and dabbling
in the mud. Mingled with these are native women, repulsively ugly,
and effeminate and emaciated Chinamen, with haggard cheeks, dragging
themselves painfully along to the opium-merchant’s, the barber’s,
or some gambling-house, three requisites to the very existence of a
Chinese. All the commerce is in their hands; and you meet ten of them
to one native.
VISIT TO THE KING.
I was introduced by the abbé at several Chinese houses, where we were
most politely received. The king was expecting a visit from me, and
had sent several persons to find out who I was; his idea being, that
I was an officer of the French army in Cochin China, despatched from
thence to gain information about the country. I begged M. Hestrest to
accompany me to see the king; for which purpose we proceeded a mile
and a half up the river to Kompong-Bay, which is the Cambodian part of
the town, and the residence of the governor, and where his Majesty and
suite were encamped.
When we arrived he was holding a kind of levée, in a building
constructed of bamboo with some elegance, and covered with red cloth,
but the interior of which looked more like a theatre than a royal
abode. Finding at the door neither sentinel nor porter, we entered
without being announced. The king was seated on an old European chair,
with two officers on each side of him, who from time to time offered
him, kneeling, a lighted cigarette, or some betel, which they kept
always ready. At a little distance stood his guards, some holding pikes
ornamented at the top with white tufts; others with sheathed sabres in
their hands. The ministers and mandarins knelt a few steps below his
Majesty. On our entrance, chairs similar to the king’s were placed for
us close to him. Like his subjects, he generally wears nothing but the
langouti, the native dress. His was composed of yellow silk, confined
at the waist by a magnificent belt of gold studded with precious
stones. At Cambodia, as at Siam, it is necessary to offer presents, if
one desires to gain the royal favour. I had accordingly brought with
me an English walking-stick gun, as a gift for the king. It at once
attracted his notice.
“Pray show me that cane,” he said, in Cambodian.
I gave it to him.
“Is it loaded?” asked he, seeing it was a fire-arm.
“No, sire.”
He then begged for a cap and snapped it; unscrewed the barrel and
examined it with great attention.
“If it would be agreeable to his Majesty,” I said to M. Hestrest, “I
shall be happy to offer it to the king.”
The abbé interpreted my words.
“What did it cost?” asked the king.
“Sire, I dare not ask M. Mouhot. In Europe no one tells the price of
what he gives.”
The king then begged to look at my watch, and, after inspecting it
attentively, again asked the price. The abbé then alluded to my design
of visiting Udong, the capital of Cambodia, and of journeying through
the country.
“Go to Udong; go about,” said the king, laughing. “Very well.” He
then asked my name, and tried to write it; on which I drew out my
pocket-book and gave him one of my cards. He seemed to wish for the
pocket-book, and I presented him with it.
“Sire,” said M. Hestrest, “as M. Mouhot is going to Udong, perhaps your
Majesty will deign to facilitate his journey.”
“Willingly. How many carriages do you want?”
“Three will be sufficient, sire.”
“And for what day?”
“The day after to-morrow, sire.”
THE AMBASSADOR’S HOTEL.
“Take a note of that, and give orders about it,” said the king to
his secretary. He then rose, and, shaking hands with us, retired. We
returned to our hotel. I say hotel, for it is the only lodging for
strangers; and M. de Montigny, when ambassador at Komput, lived there,
indications of which were afforded by the inscriptions scratched on the
walls by the sailors belonging to the expedition, such as “Hotel of the
king and ambassadors;” “Here is lodging for man, horse, and elephant
gratis pro Deo;” “Good beds, sofas, and dining-tables on the floor;”
“Sea-water bathing--in the river;” “Good table--in the market;” “Good
wine--at Singapore;” “Nothing--for the servants.”