CHANTABOUN--ITS PRODUCTS AND COMMERCE--APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY--THE
ISLES OF KO-MAN--ISLES OF PATATES--THE ISLAND OF KO KRAM--PAKNAM
VEN--MANNER IN WHICH THE APES PLAY WITH THE CROCODILES.
On the 4th January, at eight o’clock in the morning, we arrived at
the town of Chantaboun, which stands on the bank of the river, six
or seven miles from the mountain range. The Christian Annamites
form nearly a third of the population, the remainder being composed
of Chinese merchants, and some heathen Annamites and Siamese. The
Annamites are all fishers, who originally came from Cochin China
to fish in the northern part of the Gulf of Siam, and settled at
Chantaboun. Every day, while the cold weather lasts and the sea is not
too rough, they cast their nets in the little bays on the coast, or in
the sheltered water among the islands.
EAGLE-WOOD.
The commerce of this province is inconsiderable, compared with what
it might be from its situation; but the numerous taxes, the grinding
exactions of the chiefs, and the usury of the mandarins, added to the
hateful system of slavery, keep the bulk of the people in a ruinous
state of prostration. However, in spite of a scanty population, they
manage to export to Bangkok a great quantity of pepper, chiefly
cultivated by the Chinese at the foot of the mountains; a little
sugar and coffee of superior quality; mats made of rushes, which meet
with a ready sale in China; tobacco, great quantities of salted and
dried fish, dried leeches, and tortoiseshell. Every Siamese subject,
on attaining a certain height, has to pay to Government an impost
or annual tribute equivalent to six ticals (eighteen francs). The
Annamites of Chantaboun pay this in eagle-wood, and the Siamese in
gamboge; the Chinese in gum-lac, every four years, and their tribute
amounts to four ticals. At the close of the rainy season the Annamite
Christians unite in parties of fifteen or twenty, and set out under the
conduct of an experienced man, who heads the expedition, and indicates
to the others the trees which contain the eagle-wood; for all are not
equally skilled in distinguishing those which produce it; a degree of
experience is requisite for this, which can only be acquired by time,
and thus much useless and painful labour is avoided. Some remain in
the mountains, others visit the large islands of Ko-Xang or Ko-Khut,
situated south-east of Chantaboun. The eagle-wood is hard and speckled,
and diffuses a powerful aromatic odour when burnt. It is used at the
incremation of the bodies of princes and high dignitaries, which are
previously kept in the coffins for a twelvemonth. The Siamese also
employ it as a medicine. The wood of the tree which yields it--the
_Aquilaria Agallocha_ of Roxburgh--is white, and very soft; and the
trunk must be cut down, or split in two, to find the eagle-wood,
which is in the interior. The Annamites make a kind of secret of
the indications by which they fix upon the right trees, but the few
instructions given me put me on the right track. I had several cut
down, and the result of my observations was, that this substance is
formed in the cavities of the trees, and that as they grow older it
increases in quantity. Its presence may be pretty surely ascertained by
the peculiar odour emitted, and the hollow sound given out on striking
the trunk.
THE ANNAMITES.
Most of the Chinese merchants are addicted to gambling, and to the
use of opium; but the Annamite Christians are better conducted. The
nature of these Annamites is very different from that of the Siamese,
who are an effeminate and indolent race, but liberal and hospitable,
simple-minded, and without pride. The Annamites are short in stature,
and thin, lively, and active; they are choleric and vindictive, and
extremely proud; even among relations there is continual strife and
jealousy. The poor and the wretched meet with no commiseration, but
great respect is accorded to wealth. However, the attachment of the
Christians to their priests and missionaries is very great, and they
do not hesitate to expose themselves to any dangers in their behalf. I
must likewise own that, in all my dealings with the pagan Annamites,
whose reverence for their ancestors induces them to hold fast their
idolatry, I experienced generosity and kindness from them, both at
Chantaboun and in the islands.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Sabatier, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
CHAPEL OF THE MISSION, CHANTABOUN.]
The missionaries at Bangkok having given me a letter of introduction
to their fellow-labourer at Chantaboun, I had the pleasure of
making acquaintance with the worthy man, who received me with great
cordiality, and placed at my disposal a room in his modest habitation.
The good Father has resided for more than twenty years at Chantaboun,
with the Annamites whom he has baptized, content and happy amidst
indigence and solitude. I found him, on my arrival, at the height of
felicity: a new brick chapel, which had been for some time in course
of construction, and the funds required for which had been saved out
of his modest income, was rapidly progressing, and promised soon to
replace the wooden building in which he then officiated. I passed
sixteen days, very agreeably, with him, sometimes hunting on Mount
Sabab, at other times making excursions on the rivers and canals. The
country greatly resembles the province of Pakpriau, the plain being,
perhaps, still more desert and uncultivated; but at the foot of the
mountains, and in some of the delightful valleys, pepper is grown in
some quantity by the Chinese.
ISLANDS OF THE GULF.
I bought, for twenty-five ticals, a small boat to enable me to visit
the isles of the gulf. The first I landed at was named Konam-sao; it
is in the form of a cone, and nearly 250 metres[11] in height, but
only two miles in circumference. Like all the other islands in this
part of the gulf, it is of volcanic origin. The rocks which surround
it make the access difficult; but the effect produced by the richness
and bright green of the vegetation is charming. The dry season, so
agreeable for European travelling, from the freshness of the nights and
mornings, is in Siam a time of stagnation and death for all nature;
the birds fly to the neighbourhood of houses, or to the banks of the
rivers, which furnish them with nourishment; rarely does their song
come to enchant the listener; and the fishing-eagle alone utters
his hoarse and piercing cry every time the wind changes. Ants swarm
everywhere, and appear to be, with the mosquitoes and crickets, the
only insects that have escaped destruction.
[11] A metre is equivalent to 3 feet 3⅓ inches.
Nowhere did I find in these islands the slightest trace of path or
stream; and it was extremely difficult to advance at all through the
masses of wild vine and interwoven branches. I was forced to make my
way, hatchet in hand, and returned at night exhausted with the heat and
fatigue.
The greater portion of the rocks in the elevated parts of these islands
is elementary, and preserves traces of their ancient deposit beneath
the waters. They have, however, undergone considerable volcanic
changes, and contain a number of veins and irregular deposits of the
class known as contact deposits that are formed near the junction of
stratified rocks with intruded igneous masses.
KO-MAN ISLANDS.
On the 26th we set sail for the first of the Ko-Man islands, for there
are three, situated close together, bearing this name. The largest is
only twelve miles from the coast. Some fishing-eagles, a few black
doves, and a kind of white pigeon were the only winged creatures I
saw. Iguanas are numerous, and when in the evening they come out of
their retreats, they make such a noise in walking heavily over the dead
leaves and branches, that one might suppose it caused by animals of a
much larger size.
Toward evening, the tide having fallen, I allowed my boat to ground
on the mud, which I had remarked during the day to be like a peat-bog
impregnated with volcanic matter; and during the whole night so strong
a sulphureous odour escaped from it, that I imagined myself to be over
a submarine volcano.
On the 28th we passed on to the second island, which is higher and
more picturesque than the other. The rocks which surround it give it
a magnificent effect, especially in a bright sunlight, when the tide
is low. The isles of the Patates owe their name to the numerous wild
tubers found there.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Sabatier, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
VIEW OF PAKNAM ON THE MENAM.]
I passed several days at Cape Liaut, part of the time being occupied
in exploring the many adjacent islands. It is the most exquisite part
of the gulf, and will bear comparison, for its beauty, with the strait
of Sunda, near the coast of Java. Two years ago, when the king visited
Chantaboun, they built for him on the shore, at the extremity of the
cape, a house and kiosk, and, in memory of the event, they also erected
on the top of the mountain a small tower, from which a very extensive
view may be enjoyed.
SUBMARINE VOLCANO.
I also made acquaintance with Ko-Kram, the most beautiful and the
largest of all the islands north of the gulf between Bangkok and
Chantaboun. The whole island consists of a wooded mountain-range,
easy of access, and containing much oligist iron. On the morning of
the 29th, at sunrise, the breeze lessened, and when we were about
three miles from the strait which separates the isle of Arec from
that of the “Cerfs,” it ceased altogether. For the last half-hour we
were indebted solely to our oars for the little progress made, being
exposed to all the glare of a burning sun; and the atmosphere was
heavy and suffocating. All of a sudden, to my great astonishment, the
water began to be agitated, and our light boat was tossed about by the
waves. I knew not what to think, and was seriously alarmed, when our
pilot called out, “Look how the sea boils!” Turning in the direction
indicated, I beheld the sea really in a state of ebullition, and very
shortly afterwards an immense jet of water and steam, which lasted for
several minutes, was thrown into the air. I had never before witnessed
such a phenomenon, and was now no longer astonished at the powerful
smell of sulphur which had nearly overpowered me in Ko-Man. It was
really a submarine volcano, which burst out more than a mile from the
place where we had anchored three days before.
On March 1st we reached Ven-Ven, at Paknam-Ven, the name of the place
where the branches of the river unite. This river, whose width at
the mouth is above three miles, is formed by the union of several
streams flowing from the mountains, as well as by an auxiliary of the
Chantaboun river, which, serving as a canal, unites these two places.
Ascending the stream for fourteen or fifteen miles, a large village
is reached, called Bandiana, but Paknam-Ven is only inhabited by five
families of Chinese fishermen.
THE CROCODILE AND THE APES.
Crocodiles are more numerous in the river at Paknam-Yen than in that
of Chantaboun. I continually saw them throw themselves from the banks
into the water; and it has frequently happened that careless fishers,
or persons who have imprudently fallen asleep on the shore, have become
their prey, or have afterwards died of the wounds inflicted by them.
This latter has happened twice during my stay here. It is amusing,
however--for one is interested in observing the habits of animals all
over the world--to see the manner in which these creatures catch the
apes, which sometimes take a fancy to play with them. Close to the bank
lies the crocodile, his body in the water, and only his capacious mouth
above the surface, ready to seize anything that may come within reach.
A troop of apes catch sight of him, seem to consult together, approach
little by little, and commence their frolics, by turns actors and
spectators. One of the most active or most impudent jumps from branch
to branch till within a respectful distance of the crocodile, when,
hanging by one claw, and with the dexterity peculiar to these animals,
he advances and retires, now giving his enemy a blow with his paw, at
another time only pretending to do so. The other apes, enjoying the
fun, evidently wish to take a part in it; but the other branches being
too high, they form a sort of chain by laying hold of each other’s
paws, and thus swing backwards and forwards, while any one of them who
comes within reach of the crocodile torments him to the best of his
ability. Sometimes the terrible jaws suddenly close, but not upon the
audacious ape, who just escapes; then there are cries of exultation
from the tormentors, who gambol about joyfully. Occasionally, however,
the claw is entrapped, and the victim dragged with the rapidity of
lightning beneath the water, when the whole troop disperse, groaning
and shrieking. The misadventure does not, however, prevent their
recommencing the game a few days afterwards.
RETURN TO CHANTABOUN.
COLLECTION OF SHELLS.
On the 4th I returned to Chantaboun from my excursions in the gulf,
and resumed charge of my collections, which, during my absence, I had
left at the Custom-house, and which, to my great satisfaction, had been
taken good care of. The tide was low, and we could not go up to the
town. The sea here is steadily receding from the coast, and, if some
remedy be not found, in a few years the river will not be navigable
even for boats. Already the junks have some trouble in reaching
Chantaboun even at high water. The inhabitants were fishing for crabs
and mussels on the sand-banks close to the Custom-house, the _employés_
in which were occupied in the same pursuit. The chief official, who,
probably hoping for some small present, had come out to meet me, heard
me promise a supply of pins and needles to those who would bring me
shells, and encouraged his men to look for them. In consequence, a
large number were brought me, which, to obtain otherwise, would have
cost much time and trouble.