VOYAGE UP THE MENAM TO AYUTHIA THE ANCIENT CAPITAL--THE
RUINS--EXCURSION TO MOUNT PHRABAT--ITS TEMPLE--ITS SACRED AND
GEOLOGICAL FOOTSTEPS--SARABURI AND PATAVI.
After my visits of ceremony to the two kings, I hastened to finish the
preparations for my voyage. I bought a light boat capable of holding
all my chests, reserving a narrow space for myself, and another for
the bipeds and quadrupeds forming my adopted family--viz., two rowers,
one of whom also officiated as cook, a parroquet, an ape, and a dog.
One of the boatmen was a Cambodian, and the other an Annamite, both
Christians, and knowing a few words of Latin[8] and English, so that,
as I had already picked up a little Siamese, I could make myself pretty
well understood.
[8] Latin is much esteemed among the native Christians, thanks to the
ritual of the Catholic mission.
VOYAGE UP THE MENAM.
On the 19th October I quitted Bangkok, and commenced my voyage up the
Menam. The current runs very strongly at this season, and it took us
five days to go about seventy miles. At night we suffered terribly from
the mosquitoes, and even during the day had to keep up an incessant
fanning to drive off these pestilent little vampires. They were so
numerous that you could catch them by handfuls, and their humming
resembled that of a hive of bees. These insects are the curse of all
tropical countries, but here they peculiarly abound in the marshes and
lands covered with slime and mud left by the retiring waters, where the
heat of the sun and the moisture combined, favour their rapid increase.
My legs suffered especially from their attacks.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Sabatier, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
THE INUNDATION OF THE MENAM.]
As the country was entirely inundated, we could not land anywhere, and
even after killing a bird I frequently could not get at it. All this
was very tantalising, for the banks of the stream are very gay and
attractive, nature wearing here her richest dress.
At this time of the year the rains have entirely ceased, and do not
return for several months. For some days the north-eastern monsoon
had been blowing, the weather was constantly fine, and the heat
tempered by the wind. The waters, also, were beginning to subside.
It was the period of the religious _fêtes_ of the Siamese, and the
river was almost incessantly crowded with long and handsome boats
bearing flags, many of them manned by more than fifty rowers, all
in new and bright-coloured dresses, trying to pass each other, and
exciting themselves by piercing cries and all sorts of noises. In some
cases, however, sweet and agreeable music formed an accompaniment more
grateful to the ear. One boat, belonging to a mandarin, was escorted by
a number of others; it was remarkable for its elaborate carving and the
magnificence of its gilding, and was carrying yellow stuffs and other
presents to the neighbouring pagodas.
The king rarely shows himself in public more than twice a year, once
during the month of October, and a second time on board his barge,
when a procession is formed consisting of three or four hundred boats,
often containing more than 1200 persons. The effect produced by this
aquatic pageant, with the rowers in their brilliant dresses, and the
multitude of rich flags, is extremely gorgeous, and such as is only to
be witnessed in the East.
I was surprised to see the gaiety and light-heartedness of the people,
in spite of the yoke which weighs on them and the exorbitant taxes they
have to pay; but the softness of the climate, the native gentleness of
the race, and the long duration of their servitude from generation to
generation, have made them oblivious of the bitterness and hardships
inseparable from despotism.
Everywhere they were making preparations for their fishing season, for
when the waters subside from the fields, the fish are most plentiful.
Dried in the sun, they furnish food for the whole year, and are also
exported in large quantities. My boat was so encumbered with chests,
boxes, and instruments, that the space left for me was very confined,
and I suffered from heat and want of air; but these were trifles
compared with the mosquitoes.
ARRIVAL AT AYUTHIA.
On arriving at Ayuthia, my rowers conducted me direct to the excellent
Father Larmandy, a French missionary, by whom I was expected. The good
priest received me with great kindness, and placed at my disposal all
he had to offer in his little house. He employs his leisure time in the
study of natural history and in hunting, and frequently accompanied
me in my rambles. As we explored the woods we talked of our own
charming country--France.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Beaumont, from a Photograph.
RUINS OF A PAGODA AT AYUTHIA.]
AYUTHIA.
After a long hunting or rowing expedition, we always, on our return
home, found our repast prepared by my servant Niou, who excelled in
Siamese cookery, and which our fatigue made us doubly appreciate. Rice
and omelette, or curried fish, bamboo-stalks, haricots, and other wild
vegetables, formed our diet, with the addition of roast fowls and game
when the chase had been fortunate. Three chickens cost a “fuand” (37
centimes).
The heat was sometimes overwhelming; for a week we had 90 degrees
of Fahrenheit in the shade throughout the twenty-four hours, but
the mosquitoes were fewer in number, which was a great relief. In
our excursions we visited some ruins amid the woods, and I made a
collection of beautiful butterflies, and found several insects new to
me. When I reach Pakpriau, which is a few days’ journey to the north,
on the frontier of the lake, I shall find a mountain country, where I
am sure of a plentiful harvest of insects and land shells.
The comet, which I had already observed on my journey, shone here with
increased brilliancy, and it was difficult not to believe that the
extreme heat was owing to the influence of this meteor.
I drank nothing but tea, hoping by abstinence from cold water and from
all wine and spirits, to escape fever. So far, my health had certainly
never been better, not even in the north of Russia. Since the ports
have been opened to English and other European vessels everything
has been doubled in price, but still remained cheap as compared with
Europe, and I did not spend more than a franc a day for my own living
and that of my men. The people flocked to see my collections, and could
not imagine what I should do with so many animals and insects. I have
before mentioned the skilful management of boats, and the fearlessness
in swimming and diving, displayed by very young children. I used to
amuse myself by offering some of them my cigar-ends to smoke, in return
for which they would run after butterflies, and bring them to me
uninjured.
REMARKABLE SPIDER.
I discovered here a sort of spider, which is also, I believe, found at
the Cape, from which a silken thread may be drawn out by taking hold of
the end hanging from its body. One has but to go on winding; the thread
is very strong, and never breaks.
It requires some time to become accustomed to the shrill chirpings
during the night of myriads of grasshoppers and other insects, which
seem never to sleep. There appears to be no such thing as silence or
repose; everywhere is a continual stir, the gushing overflow of life in
this exuberant region.
What a contrast between the subdued tints and cold skies of Europe,
and this burning clime and glittering firmament! How pleasant it was
to rise in the early morning before the glowing sun had begun his
course; and sweeter still in the evening to listen to the thousand
sounds, the sharp and metallic cries, which seemed as though an army of
goldsmiths were at work!
The people here might be extremely happy, were they not kept in such
abject slavery; bountiful nature, that second mother, treats them as
her spoilt children, and does all for them. The forests abound with
vegetables and exquisite fruits; the rivers, the lakes, and the ponds
teem with fish; a few bamboos suffice to construct a house; while the
periodical inundations render the lands wonderfully fertile. Man has
but to sow and to plant; the sun saves him all further trouble; and he
neither knows nor feels the want of all those articles of luxury which
form part of the very existence of a European.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. J. Lange, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
ELEPHANTS IN AN ENCLOSURE OR “PARK” AT AYUTHIA.]
ARRIVAL AT ARAJIK.
On the 13th November we arrived at a village called Arajik, where the
land was more elevated. Here I killed several white squirrels, animals
which I had not met with in the neighbourhood of Bangkok. It is only
in the solitude and depth of the woods that one can fully admire and
enter into the sort of harmony and concord which reigns in the songs of
the various birds, forming such a pleasing kind of symphony that the
voice of one is rarely overpowered by that of another; one can enjoy
at once the general effect and the melodious note of the particular
winged musician we prefer. Scarcely does the sun begin to gild the tops
of the trees, when, alert and gay, they commence their morning hymn.
The martins, the warblers, the drongos, and the dominicans, respond
to the turtle-doves’ cooing in the highest branches. Music of a less
dulcet nature is discoursed by the aquatic and rapacious tribes, such
as cranes, herons, and kingfishers, who from time to time utter their
piercing cries.
VISIT TO MOUNT PHRABAT.
I procured a guide in the mandarin of the village, who received me
courteously, and offered me, in return for some trifling presents, a
breakfast of rice, fish, and bananas. I requested his aid in arranging
my purposed visit to Mount Phrabat, a favourite object of pilgrimage
among the Siamese, who resort thither yearly in great numbers to adore
the sacred footprint of Buddha. He volunteered to accompany me, an
offer which I gratefully accepted.
MOUNT PHRABAT.
The next morning, at seven o’clock, my host was waiting for me at the
door, with elephants mounted by their drivers, and other attendants
necessary for our expedition. At the same hour in the evening we
reached our destination, and, before many minutes had elapsed, all the
inhabitants were informed of our arrival; priests and mountaineers were
all full of curiosity to look at the stranger. Among the principal
people of the place I distributed some little presents, with which they
were delighted; but my fire-arms and other weapons were especially the
subject of admiration. I paid a visit to the prince of the mountain,
who was detained at home by illness. He ordered breakfast for me; and,
expressing his regret at not being able to accompany me, sent four men
to serve as guides and assistants. As a return for his kindness and
urbanity I presented him with a small pistol, which he received with
extreme gratification.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Catenacci, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
ROCK AT THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT PHRABAT.]
TEMPLE ON MOUNT PHRABAT.
We proceeded afterwards to the western side of the mountain, where
is the famous temple containing the footprint of Samona-Kodom, the
Buddha of Indo-China. I was filled with astonishment and admiration on
arriving at this point, and feel utterly incapable of describing the
spectacle which met my view. What convulsion of Nature--what force
could have upheaved those immense rocks, piled one upon another in such
fantastic forms? Beholding such a chaos, I could well understand how
the imagination of this simple people, who are ignorant of the true
God, should have here discovered signs of the marvellous, and traces
of their false divinities. It was as if a second and recent Deluge had
just abated; this sight alone was enough to recompense me for all my
fatigues.
On the mountain summit, in the crevices of the rocks, in the valleys,
in the caverns, all around, could be seen the footprints of animals,
those of elephants and tigers being most strongly marked; but I am
convinced that many of them were formed by antediluvian and unknown
animals. All these creatures, according to the Siamese, formed the
_cortège_ of Buddha in his passage over the mountain.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Catenacci, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot.
RELICS FOUND ON MOUNT PHRABAT.]
As for the temple itself, there is nothing remarkable about it; it
is like most of the pagodas in Siam--on the one hand unfinished, and
on the other in a state of dilapidation; and it is built of brick,
although both stone and marble abound at Phrabat. The approach to it
is by a flight of large steps, and the walls are covered with little
pieces of coloured glass, forming arabesques in great variety, which
glitter in the sun with striking effect. The panels and cornices are
gilt; but what chiefly attracts attention by the exquisite workmanship
are the massive ebony doors, inlaid with mother-of-pearl of different
colours, and arranged in beautiful designs. The interior of the temple
does not correspond with the outside; the floor is covered with silver
matting, and the walls bear traces of gilding, but they are blackened
by time and smoke. A catafalque rises in the centre, surrounded with
strips of gilded serge, and there is to be seen the famous footprint
of Buddha. To this sacred spot the pilgrims bring their offerings, cut
paper, cups, dolls, and an immense number of toys, many of them being
wrought in gold and silver.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Catenacci, from a sketch by M. Mouhot.
PAGODA AT MOUNT PHRABAT, WHERE IS PRESERVED THE FOOTPRINT OF BUDDHA.]
After staying a week on the mountain, and adding many pretty and
interesting objects to my collection, our party returned to Arajik, the
Prince of Phrabat insisting on sending another guide with me, although
my friend the mandarin, with his attendants and elephants, had kindly
remained to escort me back to his village. There I again partook of his
hospitality, and, taking leave of him the day following, I resumed my
voyage up the river. Before night I arrived at Saraburi, the chief town
of the province of Pakpriau, and the residence of the governor.
SARABURI.
Saraburi is a place of some extent, the population consisting chiefly
of Siamese, Chinese, and Laotian agriculturists; and consists, like
all towns and villages in Siam, of houses constructed of bamboo. They
peep out, half hidden among the foliage along the banks of the river;
beyond are rice-plantations, and, farther in the background, extensive
forests, inhabited solely by wild animals.
On the morning of the 26th we passed Pakpriau, near which the cataracts
begin. The waters were still high, and we had much trouble to fight
against the current. A little to the north of this town I met with a
poor family of Laotian Christians, of whom the good Father Larmandy
had spoken to me.[9] We moored our boat near their house, hoping
that it would remain in safety while I explored the mountains in the
neighbourhood, and visited Patawi, which is the resort of the Laotian
pilgrims, as Phrabat is of the Siamese.
[9] Father Larmandy was the interpreter of the Siamese embassy to
France in 1860-1861.
WILD ANIMALS.
All the country from the banks of the river to the hills, a distance
of about eight or nine miles, and the whole surface of this mountain
range, is covered with brown iron-ore and aërolites; where they
occur in the greatest abundance, vegetation is scanty and consists
principally of bamboo, but it is rich and varied in those places
where the detritus has formed a thicker surface of soil. The dense
forests furnish gum and oil, which would be valuable for commerce if
the indolent natives could be prevailed on to collect them. They are,
however, infested with leopards, tigers, and tiger-cats. Two dogs and
a pig were carried off from the immediate vicinity of the hut of the
Christian guardians of our boat during our stay at Pakpriau; but the
following day I had the pleasure of making the offending leopard pay
for the robbery with his life, and his skin served me for a mat.
Where the soil is damp and sandy I found numerous traces of these
animals, but those of the royal tiger are more uncommon. During the
night the inhabitants dare not venture out of doors; but in the
day-time the creatures, satisfied with the fruits of their predatory
rambles, skulk into their dens in the recesses of the woods. One day
I went to explore the eastern part of the chain of Pakpriau, and,
becoming excited in the chase of a wild boar, we soon lost ourselves
in the forest. The animal made his way through the brushwood much more
easily than we could--encumbered as we were with guns, hatchets, and
boxes--and we ere long missed the scent. By the terrified cries of
the monkeys we knew we could not be far from some tiger or leopard,
doubtless, like ourselves, in search of prey; and, as night was drawing
in, it became necessary to retrace our steps homeward for fear of some
disagreeable adventure. With all our efforts, however, we could not
find the path. We were far from the border of the forest, and were
forced to take up our abode in a tree, among the branches of which we
made a sort of hammock. On the following morning we regained the river.
WALK TO PATAWI.
I endeavoured fruitlessly to obtain oxen or elephants to carry our
baggage with a view of exploring the country, but all beasts of
burden were in use for the rice-harvest. I therefore left my boat
and its contents in charge of the Laotian family, and we set off,
like pilgrims, on foot for Patawi on a fine morning with a somewhat
cloudy sky, which recalled to me the pleasant autumn days of my own
country. My only companions were Küe and my young Laotian guide. We
followed for three hours, through forests infested with wild beasts,
the road to Korat, and at last reached Patawi. As at Phrabat, there
is a bell, both at the foot of the mount and at the entrance of a
long and wide avenue leading to the pagoda, which the pilgrims ring
on arriving, to inform the good genii of their presence and bespeak a
favourable hearing to their prayers. The mount is isolated, and about
450 feet in height; its formation is similar to that of Phrabat, but,
although its appearance is equally grand, it presents distinct points
of variation. Here are not to be seen those masses of rock, piled one
upon another, as if hurled by the giants in a combat like that fabled
of old. Patawi seems to be composed of one enormous rock, which rises
almost perpendicularly like a wall, excepting the centre portion, which
towards the south hangs over like a roof, projecting eighteen or twenty
feet. At the first glance might be recognised the action of water upon
a soil originally clay.
[Illustration:
Drawn By M. Catenacci, from a sketch by M. Mouhot.
VIEW OF THE MOUNTAINS OF KORAT, TAKEN FROM PATAWI.]
VISIT TO PATAWI.
There are many footprints similar to those of Phrabat, and in several
places are to be seen entire trunks of trees in a state of petrifaction
lying close to growing individuals of the same species. They have all
the appearance of having been just felled, and it is only on testing
their hardness with a hammer that one feels sure of not being mistaken.
An ascent of several large stone steps leads, on the left hand, to
the pagoda, and, on the right, to the residence of the Talapoins, or
priests, who are three in number,--a superior and two assistants,
appointed to watch and pay reverence to the precious “rays” of
Somanakodom. Were the authors who have written about Buddhism ignorant
of the signification of the word “ray” employed by the Buddhists? Now,
in the Siamese language, the same word which means “ray” signifies
also shadow, and it is through respect for their deity that the first
meaning is applied.
The priests were much surprised to see a “farang” (foreigner) in their
pagoda, but some trifling gifts soon established me in their good
graces. The superior was particularly charmed with a magnet which I
gave him, and amused himself with it for a long time, uttering cries of
delighted admiration as he saw it attract and pick up all the little
pieces of metal which he placed near it.
I went to the extreme north of the mount, where some generous being has
kindly had constructed, for the shelter of travellers, a hall, such as
is found in many places near pagodas. The view here is indescribably
splendid, and I cannot pretend to do justice either with pen or pencil
to the grand scenes which here and elsewhere were displayed before
my eyes. I can but seize the general effect and some of the details;
all I can promise to do is to introduce nothing which I have not
seen. Hitherto all the views I had seen in Siam had been limited in
extent, but here the beauty of the country is exhibited in all its
splendour. Beneath my feet was a rich and velvety carpet of brilliant
and varied colours; an immense tract of forest, amidst which the fields
of rice and the unwooded spots appeared like little streaks of green;
beyond, the ground, rising gradually, swells into hills of different
elevations; farther still to the north and east, in the form of a
semicircle, is the mountain-chain of Phrabat and that of the kingdom
of Muang-Lôm; and in the extreme distance those of Korat, fully sixty
miles distant. All these join one another, and are, in fact, but a
single range. But how describe the varieties of form among all these
peaks! In one place they seem to melt into the vapoury rose-tints of
the horizon, while nearer at hand the peculiar structure and colour
of the rocks bring out more strongly the richness of the vegetation;
there, again are deep shadows vying with the deep blue of the heaven
above; everywhere those brilliant sunny lights, those delicate hues,
those warm tones, which make the _tout ensemble_ perfectly enchanting.
The spectacle is one which the eye of a painter can seize and revel in,
but which his brush, however skilful, can transfer most imperfectly to
his canvas.
At the sight of this unexpected panorama a cry of admiration burst
simultaneously from all mouths. Even my poor companions, generally
insensible to the beauties of nature, experienced a moment of ecstacy
at the sublimity of the scene. “Oh! _di, di_” (beautiful), cried my
young Laotian guide; and when I asked Küe what he thought of it,
“Oh! master,” he replied, in his mixed jargon of Latin, English, and
Siamese, “the Siamese see Buddha on a stone, and do not see God in
these grand things. I am pleased to have been to Patawi.”
On the opposite side, viz. the south, the picture is different. Here
is a vast plain, which extends from the base of Patawi and the other
mountains beyond Ayuthia, whose high towers are visible in the
distance, 120 miles off. At the first glance one distinguishes what was
formerly the bed of the sea, this great plain having taken the place of
an ancient gulf: proof of which is afforded by numerous marine shells,
many of which I collected in a perfect state of preservation; while the
rocks, with their footprints and fossil shells, are indicative of some
great change at a still earlier period.
[Illustration: LAOTIAN.]
THE LAOTIANS.
Every evening some of the good Laotian mountaineers came to see the
“farang.” These Laotians differ slightly from the Siamese: they are
more slender, have the cheek-bones more prominent, and have also darker
complexions. They wear their hair long, while the Siamese shave half
of the head, leaving the hair to grow only on the top. They deserve
praise for their intrepidity as hunters, if they have not that of
warriors. Armed with a cutlass or bow--with which latter weapon they
adroitly launch, to a distance of one hundred feet, balls of clay
hardened in the sun, they wander about their vast forests, undismayed
by the jaguars and tigers infesting them. The chase is their principal
amusement, and, when they can procure a gun and a little Chinese
powder, they track the wild boar, or, lying in wait for the tiger or
the deer, perch themselves on a tree or in a little hut raised on
bamboo stakes.
Their poverty borders on misery, but it mainly results from excessive
indolence, for they will only cultivate just sufficient rice for their
support; this done, they pass the rest of their time in sleep, lounging
about the woods, or making excursions from one village to another,
paying visits to their friends on the way.
ACCOUNT OF KORAT.
At Patawi I heard much of Korat, which is the capital of the province
of the same name, situated five days’ journey north-east of Pakpriau,
that is about 120 miles; and I determined, if possible, to visit it by
and by. It appears to be a rich country, producing, especially, silk
of good quality. Caoutchouc-trees abound, but are neglected by the
inhabitants, who are probably ignorant of their value. I brought back a
magnificent specimen of the gum, which was much admired by the English
merchants at Bangkok. Living, according to report, is fabulously cheap:
six fowls may be purchased for a _fuang_ (37 centimes), 100 eggs for
the same sum, and all other things in proportion. But to get there one
has to cross the famous forest of “the King of the Fire,” which is
visible from the top of Patawi, and it is only in the dry season that
it is safe to attempt this; during the rains both the water and the
atmosphere are fatally pestilential. The superstitious Siamese do not
dare to use fire-arms there, from fear of attracting evil spirits who
would kill them.
During all the time I spent on the top of the mountain the chief priest
was unremitting in his attentions to me. He had my luggage carried into
his own room, gave me up his mats to add to mine, and in other ways
practised self-denial to make me as comfortable as was in his power.
The priests complain much of the cold in the rainy season, and of the
torrents which then rush from the summit of the mountain; they are
also greatly disturbed by the tigers, which, driven from the plains
by the inundations, take refuge on the high ground, and carry away
their dogs and fowls out of the very houses. But their visits are not
confined to that period of the year. About ten o’clock on the second
night of my stay the dogs suddenly began to utter plaintive howls. “A
tiger! a tiger!” cried my Laotian, who was lying near me. I started up,
seized my gun, and half-opened the door; but the profound darkness made
it impossible to see anything, or to go out without uselessly exposing
myself. I therefore contented myself with firing off my gun to frighten
the creature. The next morning we found one of our dogs gone.
RETURN TO BANGKOK.
We scoured the neighbourhood for about a week, and then set off once
more by water for Bangkok, as I wished to put my collections in order
and send them off.
The places which two months previously had been deep in water were
now dry; and everywhere, around their dwellings, the people were
digging their gardens and beginning to plant vegetables. The horrible
mosquitoes had reappeared in greater swarms than ever, and I pitied my
poor servants, who, after rowing all day, could obtain no rest at night.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Bocourt, from a Photograph.
SIAMESE NURSE AND BABY.]
During the day, especially in the neighbourhood of Pakpriau, the heat
was intense, the thermometer being ordinarily at 90° Fahrenheit (28°
Reaumur) in the shade, and 140° Fahrenheit (49° Reaumur) in the sun.
Luckily, we had no longer to contend with the current, and our boat,
though heavily laden, proceeded rapidly. We were about three hours’
sail from Bangkok, when I perceived a couple of European boats, and in
a room built for travellers near a pagoda I recognised three English
captains of my acquaintance, one of whom had brought me to Singapore.
They were, with their wives, enjoying a picnic, and, on seeing me,
insisted on my joining them and partaking of the repast.
I reached Bangkok the same day, and was still uncertain as to a
lodging, when M. Wilson, the courteous Danish Consul, came to me, and
kindly offered the hospitality of his magnificent house.
SANITARY CONDITION OF THE COUNTRY.
I consider the part of the country which I had just passed through,
extremely healthy, except, perhaps, during the rains. It appears
that in this season the water, flowing down from the mountains and
passing over a quantity of poisonous detritus, becomes impregnated
with mineral substances, gives out pestilential miasmata, and causes
the terrible jungle-fever, which, if it does not at once carry off
the victim, leaves behind it years of suffering. My journey, as has
been seen, took place at the end of the rainy season and when the
floods were subsiding; some deleterious exhalations, doubtless, still
escaped, and I saw several natives attacked with intermittent fever,
but I had not had an hour’s illness. Ought I to attribute this immunity
to the regimen I observed and which had been strongly recommended to
me--abstinence, all but total, from wine and spirits, and drinking
only tea, never cold water? I think so; and I believe by such a course
one is in no great danger.[10]
[10] See the obituary notice.
VOYAGE TO CHANTABOUN.
A FATAL ACCIDENT.
My intention now was to visit Cambodia, but for this purpose my little
river-boat was of no use. The only way of going to Chantaboun was
by embarking in one of the small Chinese junks or fishing-vessels,
which I accordingly did on the 28th December, taking with me a new
servant called Nion, a native of Annam, and who, having been brought
up at the college of the Catholic priests at Bangkok, knew French
well enough to be very useful to me as an interpreter. The boat was
inconveniently small, and we were far from comfortable; for, besides
myself and servant, there were on board two men, and two children
about thirteen. I was much pleased with the picturesque aspect of all
the little islands in the gulf; but our voyage was far longer than we
expected, three days being its usual duration, while owing to a strong
head-wind it occupied us for eight. We met with an accident which was
fatal to one of our party, and might have been so to all of us. On the
night of the 31st December our boat was making rapid way under the
influence of a violent wind. I was seated on the little roof of leaves
and interlaced bamboos which formed a sort of protection to me against
the rain and cold night-air, bidding adieu to the departing year and
welcoming in the new one; praying that it might be a fortunate one for
me, and, above all, that it might be full of blessings for all those
dear to me. The night was dark; we were but two miles from land, and
the mountains loomed black in the distance. The sea alone was brilliant
with that phosphoric light so familiar to all voyagers on the deep.
For a couple of hours we had been followed by two sharks, who left
behind them a luminous and waving track. All was silent in our boat;
nothing was to be heard but the wind whistling among the rigging and
the rushing of the waves; and I felt at that midnight hour--alone, and
far from all I loved--a sadness which I vainly tried to shake off, and
a disquietude which I could not account for. Suddenly we felt a violent
shock, immediately followed by a second, and then the vessel remained
stationary. Every one cried out in alarm; the sailors rushed forward;
in a moment the sail was furled and torches lighted, but, sad to say,
one of our number did not answer to his name. One of the young boys,
who had been asleep on deck, had been thrown into the sea by the shock.
Uselessly we looked for the poor lad, whose body doubtless became the
prey of the sharks. Fortunately for us, only one side of the boat had
touched the rock, and it had then run aground on the sand; so that
after getting it off we were able to anchor not far from the shore.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Sabatier, from a Sketch by M. Mouhot
PORT OF CHANTABOUN.]
THE LION ROCK.
On the 3rd January, 1859, after having crossed the little gulf of
Chantaboun, the sea being at the time very rough, we came in sight of
the famous Lion rock, which stands out like the extremity of a cape
at the entrance of this port. From a distance it resembles a lion
couchant, and it is difficult to believe that Nature unassisted has
formed this singular Colossus. The Siamese--a superstitious race--hold
this stone in great veneration, as they do everything that appears to
them extraordinary or marvellous. It is said that the captain of an
English ship, once anchored in the port, seeing the lion, proposed to
buy it, and that, on the governor of the place refusing the offer,
he pitilessly fired all his guns at _the poor animal_. This has been
recorded in Siamese verse, with a touching complaint against the
cruelty of the Western barbarians.
[Illustration:
Drawn by M. Sabatier, from a Sketch by M Mouhot.
THE LION ROCK AT THE ENTRANCE OF THE PORT OF CHANTABOUN.]