ARM CLOTHING.

_Mittens._--The hands are usually protected by mittens (aitkă´ti) of

different kinds of fur. The commonest kind are of deerskin, worn with

the flesh side out. Of these the collection contains one pair, No.

89828 [973] (Fig. 67). They are made of thick winter reindeer skin,

with the white flesh side outward, in the shape of ordinary mittens

but short and not narrowed at the wrists, with the thumb short and

clumsy. The seams are all sewed “over and over” on the hair side.

These mittens are about 7½ inches long and 4½ broad. The free part of

the thumb is only 2¼ inches long on the outer side. Such mittens are

the ordinary hand covering of men, women, and children. In extreme

cold weather or during winter hunting, very heavy mittens of the same

shape, but gathered to a wristband, are worn. These are made of white

bearskin for men and women, for children of dogskin, with the hair

out. When the hand covered with such a mitten is held upon the

windward side of the face in walking, the long hair affords a very

efficient protection against the wind. The long stiff hair of the

bearskin also makes the mitten a very convenient brush for removing

snow and hoar frost from the clothes. It is even sometimes used for

brushing up the floor.

[Illustration: FIG. 67.--Deerskin mittens]

In the MacFarlane collection are similar mittens from the Mackenzie

region. Petitot[N224] says the Anderson River “chief” wore pualuk

“mitaines en peau de morse, aussi blanches et aussi soyeuses que de

belle laine.” These were probably of bearskin, as a mitten of walrus

skin is not likely to be “blanche” or “soyeuse.” Gloves are worn under

these as at Point Barrow. All these mittens are short in the wrist,

barely meeting the frock sleeve, and leaving a crack for the cold to

get in, which is partially covered by the usual wolf or wolverine skin

fringe of the sleeve. I have already mentioned the common habit among

the women of carrying only one mitten and drawing one arm inside of

the frock.[N225] The men, except when hunting, frequently wear only

one of these heavy mittens, which are called pu´alu. Waterproof

mittens of black sealskin, coming well up over the forearm, were also

observed, but not obtained. I do not remember ever seeing them in use.

[Footnote N224: Monographie, etc., p. xv.]

[Footnote N225: Compare Parry, 2d Voy., p. 494, where a similar

habit is mentioned at Iglulik.]

[Illustration: FIG. 68.--Deerskin gloves.]

_Gloves._--Gloves of thin deerskin, worn with the hair in, and often

elegantly ornamented, are used with full dress, especially at the

dances. As already stated, the men wear such gloves under the pualu

when shooting in the winter. When ready to shoot, the hunter slips off

the mitten and holds it between his legs, while the glove enables him

to cock the rifle and draw the trigger without touching the cold metal

with his bare hands. There are two pairs of gloves in the collection.

No. 89829 [974] (Fig. 68) illustrates a very common style called

a´drigûdrĭn. They are made of thin reindeer skin, with the white flesh

side out, and are rights and lefts. The short and rather clumsy

fingers and thumbs are separate pieces from the palm, which is one

straight, broad piece, doubled so as to bring the seam on the same

side as the thumb. The thumbs are not alike on both hands. The outside

piece of the thumb runs down to the wrist on the left glove, but is

shorter on the right, the lower 2 inches of the edge seam being

between the edges of the palm piece. Each finger is a single piece

doubled lengthwise and sewed over the tip and down one side. The

wrists are ornamented with an edging of two narrow strips of clipped

mountain sheep skin, bordered with a narrow strip of wolverine fur

with the reddened flesh side out. These gloves were made for sale and

are not well mated, one being 8½ inches, with fingers (all of the same

length) 4½ inches long, while the other is 8 inches long with fingers

of 3½ inches. No. 56747 [128] is a pair of gloves made in the same way

but more elaborately ornamented. There is a band of deerskin but no

fringe round the wrist. The back of the hand is covered with brown

deerskin, hair out, into which is inserted the square ornamental

pattern in which the light stripes are white deerskin and the dark

pipings the usual almost hairless fawnskin. Gloves like this type are

the most common and almost universally have a fringe round the wrist.

They are also usually a little longer-wristed than the mittens.

Mittens are universally employed among the Eskimo, but gloves with

fingers, which, as is well known, are a much less warm covering for

the hand than mittens, are very rare. They are in use at Norton

Sound[N226] and in the Mackenzie district[N227], and have even been

observed among the Arctic Highlanders of Smith Sound, who, however,

generally wear mittens[N228]. Dr. Simpson[N229] mentions both deerskin

and bearskin mittens as used at Point Barrow, but makes no reference

to gloves. The natural inference from this is that the fashion of

wearing gloves has been introduced since his time. It is quite

probable that the introduction of firearms has favored the general

adoption of gloves. The following hypothesis may be suggested as to

the way the fashion reached Point Barrow: We may suppose that the

Malimiut of Norton Sound got the idea directly from the Russians. They

would carry the fashion to the Nunatañmiun at Kotzebue Sound, who in

their turn would teach it to the Point Barrow traders at the Colville,

and these would carry it on to the eastern natives.

[Footnote N226: Dall, Alaska, pp. 23, 152, and 153. He speaks of

the thumb (p. 23) as “a triangular, shapeless protuberance”;

a description which applies well to those in our collection.]

[Footnote N227: MacFarlane MS., and Petitot, Monographie, etc.,

p. xv.]

[Footnote N228: Bessels, Naturalist, vol. 18, p. 865.]

[Footnote N229: Op. cit., p. 242.]

[Illustration: FIG. 69.--Man’s breeches of deerskin]

Ethnological results of the Point Barrow expedition Ninth Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, 1887-1888, Government Printing Office, Washington, 1892, pages 3-442 · 第 39 / 109 题