Dr. Simpson[N206] gave an excellent general description of the dress
of these people, which is the same at the present day. While the same
in general pattern as that worn by all other Eskimo, it differs in
many details from that worn by the eastern Eskimo,[N207] and most
closely resembles the style in vogue at and near Norton Sound.[N208]
The man’s dress (Fig. 51, from a photograph of Apaidyao) consists of
the usual loose hooded frock, without opening except at the neck and
wrists. This reaches just over the hips, rarely about to mid-thigh,
where it is cut off square, and is usually confined by a girdle at the
waist. Under this garment is worn a similar one, usually of lighter
skin and sometimes without a hood. The thighs are clad in one or two
pairs of tight-fitting knee breeches, confined round the hips by a
girdle and usually secured by a drawstring below the knee which ties
over the tops of the boots. On the legs and feet are worn, first,
a pair of long, deerskin stockings with the hair inside; then slippers
of tanned sealskin, in the bottom of which is spread a layer of
whalebone shavings, and outside a pair of close-fitting boots, held in
place by a string round the ankle, usually reaching above the knee and
ending with a rough edge, which is covered by the breeches. Dress
boots often end with an ornamental border and a drawstring just below
the knee. The boots are of reindeer skin, with white sealskin soles
for winter and dry weather, but in summer waterproof boots of black
sealskin with soles of white whale skin, etc., are worn. Overshoes of
the same material, reaching just above the ankles, with a drawstring
at the top and ankle strings, are sometimes worn over the winter
boots. When traveling on snowshoes or in soft dry snow the boots are
replaced by stockings of the same shape as the under ones, but made of
very thick winter deerskins with the flesh side out.
[Footnote N206: Op. cit., pp. 241-245.]
[Footnote N207: See for example, Egede, p. 219; Crantz, vol. 1,
p. 136; Bessels, Op. cit., pp. 805 and 868 (Smith Sound); Kane,
1st Grinnell Exp., pp. 45 (Greenland) and 132 (Cape York);
Brodbeck, “Nach Osten,” pp. 23, 24, and Holm, Geografisk
Tidskrift, vol. 8, p. 90 (East Greenland); Parry, 2d Voy., pp.
494-6 (Iglulik); Boas. “Central Eskimo,” pp. 554-6; Kumlien, loc.
cit., pp. 22-25 (Cumberland Gulf); also, Frobisher, in Hakluyt’s
Voyages, 1589, etc., p. 628.]
[Footnote N208: Dall, Alaska, pp. 21 and 141.]
Instead of breeches and boots a man occasionally wears a pair of
pantaloons or tight-fitting trousers terminating in shoes such as are
worn by the women. Over the usual dress is worn in very cold weather a
circular mantle of deerskin, fastened by a thong at the neck--such
mantles are nowadays occasionally made of blankets--and in rainy
weather both sexes wear the hooded rain frock of seal gut. Of late
years both sexes have adopted the habit of wearing over their clothes
a loose hoodless frock of cotton cloth, usually bright-colored calico,
especially in blustering weather, when it is useful in keeping the
drifting snow out of their furs.
Both men and women wear gloves or mittens. These are of deerskin for
ordinary use, but in extreme weather mittens of polar bear skin are
worn. When hunting in winter it is the custom to wear gloves of thin
deerskin under the bearskin mitten, so that the rifle can be handled
without touching the bare hand to the cold iron. The women have a
common trick of wearing only one mitten, but keeping the other arm
withdrawn from the sleeve and inside of the jacket.
[Illustration: FIG. 52.--Woman’s hood.]
The dress of the women consists of two frocks, which differ from those
of the men in being continued from the waist in two rather full
rounded skirts at the front and back, reaching to or below the knee.
A woman’s frock is always distinguished by a sort of rounded bulge or
pocket at the nape of the neck (see Fig. 52, from a sketch by the
writer), which is intended to receive the head of the infant when
carried in the jacket. The little peak at the top of the hood is also
characteristic of the woman’s frock. On her legs a woman wears a pair
of tight-fitting deerskin pantaloons with the hair next the skin, and
outside of these a similar pair made of the skins of deer legs, with
the hair out, and having soles of sealskin, but no anklestrings. The
outer pantaloons are usually laid aside in spring, and waterproof
boots like the men’s, but fastened below the knee with drawstrings,
are worn over the under pantaloons. In the summer pantaloons wholly of
waterproof sealskin are often put on. The women’s pantaloons, like the
men’s breeches, are fastened with a girdle just above the hips. It
appears that they do not stay up very well, as the women are
continually “hitching” them up and tightening their girdles.
Until they reach manhood the boys wear pantaloons like the women, but
their jackets are cut just like those of the men. The dress of the
girls is a complete miniature of that of the women, even to the pocket
for the child’s head. Those who are well-to-do generally own several
complete suits of clothes, and present a neat appearance when not
engaged in dirty work. The poorer ones wear one suit on all occasions
till it becomes shabby. New clothes are seldom put on till winter.
The outer frock is not often worn in the iglu, being usually taken off
before entering the room, and the under one is generally dispensed
with. Men habitually leave off their boots in the house, and rarely
their stockings and breeches, retaining only a pair of thin deerskin
drawers. This custom of stripping in the house has been noticed among
all Eskimos whose habits have been described, from Greenland to
Siberia. The natives are slow to adopt any modifications in the style
of dress, the excellence and convenience of which has been so
frequently commented upon that it is unnecessary to refer to it. One
or two youths learned from association with us the convenience of
pockets, and accordingly had “patch pockets” of cloth sewed on the
outside of the skirt of the inner frock, and one young man in 1883
wore a pair of sealskin hip boots, evidently copies from our
india-rubber wading boots. I now proceed to the description of the
clothing in detail.
_Head clothing._--The only head covering usually worn is the hood of
the frock, which reaches to about the middle of the head, the front
being covered by the hair. Women who are carrying children in the
jacket sometimes wrap the head in a cloth. (I have an indistinct
recollection of once seeing a woman with a deerskin hood, but was too
busy at the time to make a note or sketch of it.) One man at Utkiavwĭñ
(Nägawau´ra, now deceased), who was quite bald on the forehead, used
to protect the front of his head with a sort of false front of
deerskin, tied round like a fillet. No specimens of any of these
articles were obtained. Fancy conical caps are worn in the dances and
theatrical performances, but these belong more properly under the head
of Games and Pastimes (where they will be described) than under that
of Clothing.
_Frocks (atigĕ)._--Two frocks are always worn by both sexes except in
the house, or in warm weather, the inner (ílupa) with the hair next
the skin, and the outer (kalûru´rɐ) with the hair out. The outer frock
is also sometimes worn with the hair in, especially when it is new and
the flesh side clean and white. This side is often ornamented with
little tufts of marten fur and stripes of red ocher. The difference in
shape between the frocks of the two sexes has been already mentioned.
The man’s frock is a loose shirt, not fitted to the body, widening at
the bottom, and reaching, when unbelted, just below the hips. The
skirts are cut off square or slightly rounded, and are a little longer
behind than in front. The hood is rounded, loose around the neck, and
fitted in more on the sides than on the nape. The front edge of the
hood, when drawn up, comes a little forward of the top of the head and
runs round under the chin, covering the ears.
[Illustration: FIG. 53.--Man’s frock.]
[Illustration: FIG. 54.--Pattern of man’s deerskin frock.]
There are in the collection three specimens, all rather elaborate
dress frocks, to be worn outside. All have been worn. No. 56751 [184]
(Fig. 53), brown deerskin, will serve as the type. The pattern can
best be explained by reference to the accompanying diagrams (Fig. 54).
The body consists of two pieces, front and back, each made of the
greater part of the skin of a reindeer fawn, with the back in the
middle and the sides and belly coming at the edges. The head of the
animal is made into the hood, which is continuous with the back. Each
sleeve is in two pieces, front and back, of the same shape, which are
sewed together along the upper edge, but separated below by the arm
flap of the front, which is bent down and inserted like a gusset from
the armpit nearly to the wrist. A band of deerskin an inch broad is
sewed round the edge of the hood, flesh side out. The trimming
consists, first, of a narrow strip of long-haired wolfskin (taken from
the middle of the back) sewed to the outer side of the binding of the
hood, its ends separated by the chin piece, so that the long hairs
form a fringe around the face. Similar strips are sewed round each
wrist with the fur inward. The binding round the skirt (Fig. 55_a_) is
2¼ inches broad. The light-colored strips are clipped mountain sheep
skin, the narrow pipings are of the dark brown skin of a very young
fawn, the little tags on the second strip are of red worsted and the
fringe is of wolverine fur, sewed on with the flesh side, which is
colored red, probably with ocher, outward. A band of similar
materials, arranged a little differently (Fig. 55_b_) and 1¼ inches
broad, is inserted into the body at each shoulder seam, so that the
fringe makes a sort of epaulet. This jacket is 24.5 inches long from
the chin to the bottom of the skirt, 21 inches wide across the
shoulders, and 24.5 inches wide at the bottom.
[Illustration: FIG. 55.--Detail of trimming, skirt and shoulder of
man’s frock.]
[Illustration: FIG. 56.--Man wearing plain, heavy frock.]
Apart from the trimming this is a very simple pattern. There are no
seams except those absolutely necessary for producing the shape, and
the best part of each skin is brought where it will show most, while
the poorer portions are out of sight under the arms.
[Illustration: FIG. 57.--Man’s frock of mountain sheepskin, front
and back.]
The chief variation in deerskin frocks is in the trimming. All have
the hood fitted to the head and throat, with cheek and throat pieces,
and these are invariably white or light colored, even when the frock
is made of white Siberian deer skin. When possible the head of the
deer is always used for the back of the hood, as Capt. Parry observed
to be the custom at Iglulik.[N209] A plain frock is sometimes used for
rough work, hunting, etc. This has no fringe or trimming round the
hood, skirt, or wrists, the first being smoothly hemmed or bound with
deerskin and the last two left raw-edged. Fig. 56 shows such a jacket,
which is often made of very heavy winter deerskin. Most frocks,
however, have the border to the hood either of wolf or wolverine skin,
in the latter case especially having the end of the strips hanging
down like tassels under the chin. The long hairs give a certain amount
of protection to the face when walking in the wind.[N210] Instead of a
fringe the hood sometimes has three tufts of fur, one on each side and
one above.
[Footnote N209: Second Voy., p. 537.]
[Footnote N210: Compare Dall, Alaska, p. 22.]
Trimmings of edging like that above described, or of plain wolverine
fur round the skirts and wrists, are common, and the shoulder straps
rather less so. Frocks are sometimes also fringed on the skirts and
seams with little strips of deerskin, after what the Point Barrow
people called the “Kûñmûdlĭñ” fashion.[N211] Nearly all the natives
wear outer frocks of deerskin, but on great occasions elaborately made
garments of other materials are sometimes seen. Nos. 56758 [87] (Fig.
57, _a_ and _b_) and 56757 [11] (Fig. 58, _a_ and _b_) are two such
frocks. No. 56758 [87] is of mountain sheep skin, nearly white. As
shown in the diagrams (Fig. 59, _a_, _b_, _c_), the general pattern is
not unlike the type described, but there are more pieces in the hood
and several small gussets are inserted to improve the set of the
garment. The trimmings are shoulder straps, and a border round the
skirt of edging like that described above, and the seams of the throat
pieces are piped with the dark almost hairless deerskin, which sets
them off from the rest of the coat. The wrists have narrow borders of
wolf fur, and there was a wolfskin fringe to the hood, which was
removed before the garment was offered for sale.
[Footnote N211: There are several frocks so trimmed in the
National Museum, from the Mackenzie and Anderson region.]
[Illustration: FIG. 58.--Man’s frock of ermine skins, front and
back.]
No. 56757 [11] is a very handsome garment (Fig. 58). The body and
sleeves are of white and brown (winter and summer) ermine skins
arranged in an elegant pattern, and the hood of reindeer and mountain
sheep skin. This is the only frock seen in which the hood is not
fitted to the sides of the throat by curved and pointed throat pieces,
after the fashion universal among the western Eskimo, from Cape
Bathurst at least to Norton Sound. The pattern of the hood is shown by
the diagram (Fig. 60 _a_). The middle piece is the skin of a reindeer
head, the two cheek pieces and median chin piece of mountain sheep
skin. When the hood is put together the lower edge of it is sewed to
the neck of the body, which has the back and front of nearly the same
size and shape (diagram, Fig. 60 _b_), though the back is a little
longer in the skirt. There is no regular seam on the shoulders, where
irregular bits of white ermine skin are pieced together so as to fit.
From the armpit on each side runs a narrow strip of sheepskin between
back and front. The sleeve is a long piece made of three white ermine
skins put together lengthwise, doubled above, with a straight strip of
sheepskin let in below, and enlarged near the body by two triangular
gussets (front and back) let in between the ermine and sheepskin. The
wristbands are broad pieces of sheepskin. The skirts are of white
ermine skins pieced together irregularly, but the skins composing the
front, back, and sleeves are split down the back of the animal and
neatly cut into long rectangular pieces, with the feet and tails still
attached. They are arranged in a pattern of vertical stripes, two
skins fastened together end to end making a stripe, which is the same
on the front and the back. There is a brown stripe down the middle,
then two white stripes on each side, and a brown stripe on each edge.
The hood is bound round the edge with white sheepskin and bordered
with wolfskin. There are shoulder straps and a border round the skirt
of edging of the usual materials, but slightly different arrangement,
and tagged with small red glass beads.
[Illustration: FIG. 59.--Pattern of sheepskin frock.]
[Illustration: FIG. 60.--Pattern of ermine frock. _a_, hood; _b_,
body.]
The former owner of this beautiful frock (since dead) was always very
elegantly dressed. His deerskin clothes were always much trimmed, and
he owned an elegant frock of foxskins, alternately blue and white,
with a hood of deerskin, which we did not succeed in obtaining for the
collection. (The “jumper of mixed white and blue fox pelts,” seen by
Dr. Kane at Ita,[N212] must have been like this.)
[Footnote N212: Second Grinnell Exp., vol. 1, p. 203.]
[Illustration: FIG. 61.--Woman’s frock, front and back.]
The woman’s frock differs from that worn by the men, in the shape of
the hood and skirts, as mentioned above, and it is also slightly
fitted in to the waist and made to “bag” somewhat in the back, in
order to give room for carrying the child. The pattern is considerably
different from that of the man’s frock, as will be seen from the
description of the type specimen (the only one in the collection), No.
74041 [1791] (Fig. 61, _a_ and _b_), which is of deerskin. The hood is
raised into a little point on top and bulges out into a sort of
rounded pocket at the nape. This is a holiday garment, made of strips
of skin from the shanks and belly of the reindeer, pieced together so
as to make a pattern of alternating light and dark stripes. The
pattern is shown in the diagram, Fig. 62. The sleeves are of the same
pattern as those of No. 56751 [184]. The edge of the hood is bound
with deerskin, hair outwards. Trimming: a strip of edging (Fig. 63) in
which the light stripes are clipped white mountain sheepskin, the dark
pipings brown, almost hairless, fawnskin, and the tags red worsted, is
inserted in the seam between 7 on each side and 6 and 2, and a similar
strip between the inner edge of 3, 2, 7, 9, and 1. A broader strip of
similar insertion, fringed below with marten fur, with the flesh side
out and colored red, runs along the short seam _ffff_. The seam
between 9 and 7 has a narrow piping of thin brown deerskin, tagged
with red worsted. A strip of edging, without tags and fringed with
marten fur (Fig. 64), is inserted in the seam _gggg_. The border of
the skirt is 1 inch wide (Fig. 64). The dark stripe is brown deerskin,
the white, mountain sheep, and the fur, marten, with the red flesh
side out. The fringes are double strips of white deerskin sewed to the
inside of the last seam, about 3 inches apart. The shoulder straps are
of edging like that at _g_, but have the fur sewed on so as to show
the red flesh side. The hood has a fringe of wolfskin sewed to the
outside of the binding. This frock measures 45 inches in the back, 32
in the front, 19 across the shoulders, and 17 at the waist. The skirts
are 21 inches wide, the front 18, and the back 20 inches long. The
pieces 7, 8, and 9 of the hood are white. This is an unusually
handsome garment.
[Illustration: FIG. 62.--Pattern of woman’s frock.]
[Illustration: FIG. 63.--Detail of edging, woman’s frock.]
[Illustration: FIG. 64.--Details of trimming, woman’s frock.]
Deerskin garments rarely have the ornamental piecing seen in this
frock. Each one of the numbered parts of the pattern is generally in
one piece. The pieces 8 and 9 are almost universally white, and 7 is
often so. About the same variety in material and trimming is to be
found as in the men’s frocks, though deer and mountain sheep skins
were the only materials seen used, and the women’s frocks are less
often seen without the fringe round the hood. Plain deerskin frocks
are often bordered round the skirts with a fringe cut from deerskin.
The women nowadays often line the outer frock with drilling, bright
calico, or even bedticking, and then wear it with this side out.
The frocks for both sexes, while made on the same general pattern as
those of the other Eskimo, differ in many details from those of
eastern America. For instance, the hood is not fitted in round the
throat with the pointed throat pieces or fringed with wolf or
wolverine skin until we reach the Eskimo of the Anderson River. Here,
as shown by the specimens in the National Museum, the throat pieces
are small and wide apart, and the men’s hoods only are fringed with
wolverine skin. The women’s hoods are very large everywhere in the
east for the better accommodation of the child, which is sometimes
carried wholly in the hood.[N213]
[Footnote N213: Egede, p. 131; Crantz, i, p. 137 and Pl. III.
(Greenland); Bessels, op. cit., p. 865 (Smith Sound--married women
only); Parry, 2nd Voy., p. 491, and numerous illustrations, passim
(Iglulik); Packard. Naturalist Vol. 19, p. 6, Pl. XXIII
(Labrador), and Kumlien, l. c., p. 33 (Cumberland Gulf). See also
several specimens in the National Museum from Ungava (collected by
L. M. Turner) and the Mackenzie and Anderson rivers (collected by
MacFarlane). The hoods from the last region, while still much
larger and wider than those in fashion at Point Barrow, are not so
enormous as the more eastern ones. The little peak on the top of
the woman’s hood at Point Barrow may be a reminiscence of the
pointed hood worn by the women mentioned by Bessels, op. cit.]
The hind flap of the skirt of the woman’s frock, except in Greenland,
has developed into a long narrow train reaching the ground, while the
front flap is very much decreased in size (see references just
quoted). The modern frock in Greenland is very short and has very
small flaps (see illustrations in Rink’s Tales, etc., pp. 8 and 9),
but the ancient fashion, judging from the plate in Crantz’s History of
Greenland, referred to above, was much more like that worn by the
western Eskimo. In the Anderson and Mackenzie regions the flaps are
short and rounded and the front flap considerably the smaller. There
is less difference in the general shape of the men’s frocks. The hood
is generally rounded and close fitting, except in Labrador and Baffin
Land, where it is pointed on the crown. The skirt is sometimes
prolonged into rounded flaps and a short scallop in front, as at
Iglulik and some parts of Baffin Land.[N214] Petitot[N215] gives a
full description of the dress of a “chief” from the Anderson River. He
calls the frock a “blouse échancrée par côté et terminée en queues
arrondies par devant et par derrière.” The style of frock worn at
Point Barrow is the prevalent one along the western coast of America
nearly to the Kuskokwim. On this river long hoodless frocks reaching
nearly or quite to the ground are worn.[N216] The frock worn in Kadiak
was hoodless and long, with short sleeves and large armholes beneath
these.[N217]
[Footnote N214: Parry, 2d Voy., p. 494, and 1st Voy., p. 283.]
[Footnote N215: Monographic, etc., p. xiv.]
[Footnote N216: Petroff, op. cit., p. 134, Pls. 4 and 5. See also
specimens in the National Museum.]
[Footnote N217: Petroff, op. cit., p. 139, and Liscansky, Voy.,
etc., p. 194.]
The men of the Siberian Eskimo and sedentary Chukches, as at Plover
Bay, wear in summer a loose straight-bottomed frock without a hood,
but with a frill of long fur round the neck. The winter frock is
described as having “a square hood without trimmings, but capable of
being drawn, like the mouth of a bag, around the face by a string
inserted in the edge.”[N218] According to Nordenskiöld,[N219] the men
at Pitlekaj wear the hoodless frock summer and winter, putting on one
or two separate hoods in winter. The under hood appears to be like one
or two which I saw worn at Plover Bay, namely, a close-fitting
nightcap of thin reindeer skin tied under the chin. The dress of the
Siberian women consists of frock and baggy kneebreeches in one piece,
sewed to tightfitting boots reaching to the knees.[N220]
[Footnote N218: Dall, Alaska, p. 379.]
[Footnote N219: Vega, vol. 2, p. 98.]
[Footnote N220: Nordenskiöld, Vega, vol. 2, p. 100 and Fig. on
p. 57; Dall, Alaska, p. 379 and plate opposite. I also noticed
this dress at Plover Bay in 1881. Compare also Krause Brothers,
Geogr. Blätter, vol. 5, No. 1, p. 5, where the dress along the
coast from East Cape to Plover Bay is described as we saw it at
Plover Bay.]
_Mantles._--“Circular” mantles of deerskin, fastened at the neck by a
thong, and put on over the head like a poncho, are worn by the men in
very cold weather over their other clothes when lounging in the open
air about the village or watching at a seal hole or tending the seal
nets at night. The cloaks are especially affected by the older men,
who, having grown-up sons or sons-in-law, do not have to go sealing in
winter, and spend a great deal of their time in bright weather
chatting together out of doors. There is one specimen in the
collection, No. 56760 [94] (Fig. 65). It is made of fine summer
doe-reindeer skin, in three pieces, back and two sides of dark skin,
sewed to a collar of white skin from the belly of the animal. For
pattern see diagram (Fig. 66). The seams at _a_ are gored to make the
cloak hang properly from the shoulder. The collar is in two pieces,
joined in the middle, and the edge _c_ is turned over toward the hair
side and “run” down in a narrow hem. The points _b_ of the collar are
brought together in the middle and joined by a little strap of
deerskin about an inch long, so that the edge _c_ makes a round hole
for the neck. The width of the mantle is 60 inches and its depth 39.
It is worn with the white flesh side out, as is indicated by the seams
being sewed “over and over” on the hair side. All the mantles seen
were essentially of the same pattern. The edge is sometimes cut into
an ornamental fringe, and the flesh side marked with a few narrow
stripes of red ocher. This garment appears to be peculiar to
northwestern America. No mention is to be found of any such a thing
except in Mr. MacFarlane’s MS. notes, where he speaks of a deerskin
blanket “attached with a line across the shoulders in cold weather,”
among the Anderson River Eskimo. We have no means at present of
knowing whether such cloaks are worn by the coast natives between
Point Barrow and Kotzebue Sound, but one was worn by one of the
Nunata´ñmiun who were at Nuwŭk in the autumn of 1881.
[Illustration: FIG. 65.--Man’s cloak of deerskin.]
[Illustration: FIG. 66.--Pattern of man’s cloak.]
_Rain-frocks._--The rain-frock (silû´ña) is made of strips of seal or
walrus intestines about 3 inches broad, sewed together edge to edge.
This material is light yellowish brown, translucent, very light, and
quite waterproof. In shape the frock resembles a man’s frock, but the
hood comes well forward and fits closely round the face. It is
generally plain, but the seams are nowadays sewed with black or
colored cotton for ornament. The garment is of the same shape for both
sexes, but the women frequently cover the flesh side of a deerskin
frock with strips of entrail sewed together vertically, thus making a
garment at once waterproof and warm, which is worn alone in summer
with the hair side in. These gut shirts are worn over the clothes in
summer when it rains or when the wearer is working in the boats. There
are no specimens in the collection.
The kaiak jacket of black sealskin, so universal in Greenland, is
unknown at Point Barrow. The waterproof gut frocks are peculiar to the
western Eskimo, though shirts of seal gut, worn between the inner and
outer frock, are mentioned by Egede (p. 130) and Crantz[N221] as used
in Greenland in their time. Ellis also[N222] says: “Some few of them
[i.e., the Eskimo of Hudsons Strait] wear shifts of seals’ bladders,
sewed together in pretty near the same form with those in Europe.”
They have been described generally under the name _kamleïka_ (said to
be a Siberian word) by all the authors who have treated of the natives
of this region, Eskimo, Siberians, or Aleuts. We saw them worn by
nearly all the natives at Plover Bay. One handsome one was observed
trimmed on the seams with rows of little red nodules (pieces of the
beak of one of the puffins) and tiny tufts of black feathers.
[Footnote N221: Vol. 1, p. 137.]
[Footnote N222: Voyage to Hudsons Bay, p. 136.]
The cotton frock, already alluded to as worn to keep the driving snow
out of the furs, is a long, loose shirt reaching to about midleg, with
a round hole at the neck large enough to admit the head. This is
generally of bright-colored calico, but shirts of white cotton are
sometimes worn when hunting on the ice or snow. Similar frocks are
worn by the natives at Pitlekaj.[N223]
[Footnote N223: Nordenskiöld, Vega, vol. 2, p. 98.]