_Departure from Siwah.—Journey to Schiacha, and Danger which the
Traveller there incurred._
Having remained eight days at Siwah; on the 29th of September, at
three in the afternoon, we broke up our encampment, and proceeded
a three hours march, when we again pitched our tents at foot of a
hill. The next day we began our journey late, being delayed till one
o’clock, in search of a slave who belonged to a court-officer of
the Sultan of Fezzan, and who had absconded from the caravan. Whilst
the man was looking for, I set out with a view of inspecting some
catacombs which I descried on the neighbouring hills, but was stopped
at some distance by a lake of seven or eight miles in circumference,
formed at the base of the mountain by the conflux of springs and
small pools of water, which the rains at this season had swollen
and brought together. Returning to the camp, I took my telescope
to examine the appearances I was not enabled closely to inspect,
when the first object on the mountain which presented itself to
my view was the Negro after whom the search was making. I gave no
notice of my discovery, the poor fellow having a good character, and
having been driven to the attempt of flight by the extreme severity
of his master. I am sorry to say there was little hope of his final
escape, the Siwahans having promised to deliver him up. This day we
travelled till half an hour after sun-set. The next day we marched
at two hours before day-break, and halted at nine. The fourth day
brought us to the fruitful valley of _Schiacha_.
The mountains by which we travelled from _Siwah_ to this spot, are
branches of those which I have mentioned as appearing, at all times,
to north of our way through the Desert, and often at but little
distance. They rise abruptly, and as precipices, from the level
ground, and shew a face of mere rock, without the least covering of
soil or even of sand. Their appearance, taken together with that of
the _sea-sand_ which covers the Desert, indicate this vast tract to
have been flooded, and at a period later than the great deluge. In
the sandy plain below these mountains is seen the surface of a vast
calcareous rock, containing no substance of petrifaction, whereas
the mountains near consist of limestone, crowded and filled with
fragments of marine animals and shells. The strata of all these
rocky hills lay horizontal.
Westward of _Siwah_, I found two banks or heaps of calcined shells,
some of the size of two inches over. My interpreter told me,
that taking his road at some distance from me, he saw a mountain
standing singly and unconnected with others, composed entirely of
shells. Many such vast isolated mounds are to be seen throughout the
whole of this district, and the bed-joints or interstices of their
strata of stone (always horizontal), being filled up with a reddish,
friable, calcareous substance, they often resemble pyramids, and in
so exact and illusive a manner, that more than once I was deceived
into expectation of arrival at such building. The architecture of the
ancient Egyptians was of the vast and gigantic kind; and builders of
such ambitious temper and stupendous scheme, might readily entertain
the idea of transforming a mountain into a pyramid, shaping the huge
rock, already in form partly adapted, and casing it with wrought
stones on the outside, as they might prefer. Some of the learned
have given an opinion, that the Pyramids of _Giza_ and of _Saccara_,
were not originally erections from the base, but merely hills of
earth or stone, shaped and covered by the labour of man. The idea is
plausible, though certainly to be controverted, by reasons to be drawn
from history, and from other the best sources of fact and argument.
I now proceed to the recital of an event in which I was personally
and principally concerned. I shall give the recital in detail,
as, in its consequences, being of the highest import to the future
safety of myself, and therewith to the progress of discovery which
I have engaged in; and, as it has afforded me self-confidence and
new encouragement, ever favourable to the success of enterprize, so
will it, I trust, give satisfaction to those who have employed me,
inspiring just and well-founded hopes of my finally accomplishing
the great purpose entrusted to my care.
The state of quiet and security usually attending our encampments was
interrupted, whilst at _Schiacha_, by the arrival of some Siwahans,
who, about eight o’clock in the evening, came with intelligence,
that a numerous horde of Arabs from the vicinity of _Faiume_ were
hovering in the Desert, ready to fall upon our caravan. These
messengers at the same time assured us, that the people of Siwah
had resolved to come to our assistance, and to escort us to the
next watering-place; adding, “that their little army would
arrive in a few hours, determined to risk with us every thing in
opposing the attack of the Bedouins, whose force they represented
as consisting of from 800 to 1000 men. Our leader, the Sheik of
the Twaters, immediately assembled the principal people of the
caravan, when it was decided not to desert our post, but to await
the enemy. Scarcely was our little council broke up, when we heard
from afar the braying of some hundred asses, giving notice of the
approach of the _Siwahans_. They use this animal on their military
excursions, from the advantage it affords of more easily proceeding
by narrow and rugged passes among the mountains, and evading or
attacking any enemy, who from ignorance of the country, or from the
nature of its cattle requiring safer roads, is obliged to confine
its march to broader defiles or vallies. Some men were immediately
dispatched from the caravan, requiring the Siwahans to halt at half
a mile distance from our post. The night passed in disquietude and
alarm: each got his arms in readiness, and prepared for a battle
on the ensuing day. A little before sun-rise, the Siwahans advanced
on foot, and gave apprehension of immediate attack. Some _Augilans_
rode forward, to inquire their intentions, and were answered, “that
the caravan had nothing to fear;” on reporting this to the Sheik,
he sent the messengers back, to say he should consider and treat
them as enemies, if they advanced a step further. On this message the
_Siwahans_ halted, formed a circle, and invited some _Augilans_ to a
conference. During all this time, I remained quiet with my baggage,
having sent my interpreter to collect intelligence of what was
passing. Seeing him return, and judging from his manner and haste,
that he had something of importance to communicate, I ran to meet
him. He immediately accosted me with, “cursed be the moment, when I
determined upon this journey; we are both of us unavoidably lost men;
they take us for Christians and spies, and will assuredly put us
to death.” With these words he left me, and ran to the baggage,
where he exchanged his single gun for my double barrelled one,
and armed himself with two brace of pistols. I upbraided him with
his want of firmness, told him “a steady and resolute conduct
could alone preserve ourselves and friends, and reminded him that
his present behaviour was precisely such as to give weight to the
suspicions entertained:” I further urged, “that on his own account
he had nothing to fear, having for twelve years been a Mahommedan,
and perfectly acquainted with the religion and customs; that myself
alone was in danger, and that I hoped to avert it, provided _he_ did
not intermeddle with my defence.” “Friend, (answered he,) you will
never hear of danger: but this time you will pay for your temerity.”
Perceiving that terror had wholly deprived him of the necessary temper
and recollection, I now left him to himself, and walked up unarmed,
but with a firm and manly step, to this tumultuous assembly.
I entered the circle, and offered the Mahometan salutation,
“_Assulam Alckum_,” but none of the _Siwahans_ returned it. Some
of them immediately exclaimed,—“You are of the new Christians from
Cairo, and come to explore our country.” Had I at this time, been as
well acquainted with Mahometan fanaticism, and the character of the
Arabs, as I have been since, I should have deduced my defence from
the very terms of the accusation, and stated that I was indeed from
Cairo, having fled from the Infidels; as it was, I answered nothing
to this general clamour, but sat down and directed my speech to one
of the Chiefs, whose great influence I knew, and who had been often
in my tent whilst at _Siwah_. “Tell me, brother, (said I,) hast
thou ever before known 300 armed men take a journey of three days,
in pursuit of two men, who dwelt in their _midst_ for ten days, who
had eaten and drank with them as friends, and whose tents were open
to them all? Thyself hast found us praying and reading the Koran;
and now thou sayest we are Infidels from Cairo; _that is_, one of
those from whom we fly! Dost thou not know, that it is a great sin
to tell one of the faithful that he is a Pagan?” I spoke this
with an earnest and resolute tone, and many of the congregation
seemed gained over by it, and disposed to be favourable to me: the
man replied, “that he was convinced we were not Infidels, that
he had persuaded no one to this pursuit, and as far as depended on
him alone, he was ready to return to _Siwah_.” On this I turned
to one of the vulgar, who was communicating some of the accusations
against me to the people of our caravan. “Be thou silent, (said
I,) would to God, that I were able to speak well the Arabic, I would
then ask questions of thee, and of hundreds like thee, who are less
instructed in the _Islam_ than I am.” An old man on this observed,
“This man is younger than the other, and yet more courageous!” I
immediately continued, “My friend is not afraid of thee, but thou
oughtest to have fears of my friend: dost thou know what it is to
reproach a man, who lives with sultans and with princes, with being
an Infidel?” I was then asked for what purpose we carried Christian
papers. I now found that my interpreter had unwarily shewn a passport
which I had obtained from General Bonaparte, with a view not to
be detained at the French posts through which I was to pass to the
caravan. My interpreter at this moment came up, and finding me alive,
and the assembly less angry and violent, than when on being first
questioned, he had exasperated them by inconsiderate and perplexed
answers; he recovered himself, and stood sufficiently composed and
collected, whilst I explained partly in German, partly in Arabic,
what had passed. Knowing, however, that the paper in question would
be demanded, and not choosing to trust to his prudence in the manner
of producing it; I went myself for it to the tent, and returning,
brought likewise a Koran with me. I immediately tendered the paper
to a Chief of the _Siwahans_, who having unfolded it, asked, “if
any by-stander could read it.” I could not help smiling at the
question, perilous as was my situation. The same question was then
put to us, when I answered, “that we did not understand what it
contained, but were told, it would allow us to quit Cairo without
being molested.” “This is the book, (interrupted my interpreter,)
which I understand:” and immediately took the Koran from my hand. We
were ordered, by reading in it, to give proof of our being truly of
the religion. Our learning in this respect went far indeed beyond
the simple ability of reading. My companion knew the entire Koran
by heart, and as for me, I could even then write Arabic, and well
too: which with these people, was an extraordinary proficiency in
learning. We had scarcely given a sample of our respective talents,
when the chiefs of our caravan, who to this moment had been silent,
now took loudly our part; and many of the Siwahans too, interfered in
our favour. In short, the inquiry ended to our complete advantage,
though not without the murmuring of some in the multitude, who lost
the hopes of plunder which the occasion might have afforded.
Thus the character of Mussulman which I assumed was firmly
established, and I shall not be subjected in future, to like
inquiries, on which, perhaps, more decisive proofs might be required,
and which I could not give. The security of my future voyage is thus
assured, and so great an advantage more than compensates for some
losses attending the above incident, but which yet I must regret.
During the time I was first in conference with the people of Siwah,
and those of the caravan, my baggage was left with my interpreter; who
in the paroxysms of his fears, and indeed with no light apprehensions
of our bales of goods being searched, took my remains of mummies,
my specimens of mineralogy, my _more detailed_ remarks, made on my
way from Cairo to _Schiacha_, and generally my books, and gave them
to a confidential slave of my Arab inmate, to bury them in a bog;
this was done, and I never afterwards could retrieve them.