tench, when you have cleaned them wipe them with a cloth, and fry them
in a frying pan with a little butter to harden the skin; before you put
them into the stew-pan, put to them a little good gravy, the quantity
will be according to the largeness of your fish, with a jill of claret,
three or four anchovies at least, a little shred lemon-peel, a blade or
two of mace, let all stew together, till your carp be enough, over a
slow fire; when it is enough take part of the liquor, put to it half a
pound of butter, and thicken it with a little flour; so serve them up.
Garnish your dish with crisp parsley, slices of lemon and pickles.
If you have not the convenience of stewing them, you may broil them
before a fire, only adding the same sauce.
205. _How to make_ SAUCE _for a boiled_ SALMON _or_ TURBOT.
Take a little mild white gravy, two or three anchovies, a spoonful of
oyster or cockle pickle, a little shred lemon-peel, half a pound of
butter, a little parsley and fennel shred small, and a little juice of
lemon, but not too much, for fear it should take off the sweetness.
206. _To make_ SAUCE _for_ HADDOCK _or_ COD, _either broiled or
boiled_.
Take a little gravy, a few cockles, oysters or mushrooms, put to them a
little of the gravy that comes from the fish, either broiled or boiled,
it will do very well if you have no other gravy, a little catchup and a
lump of butter; if you have neither oysters nor cockles you may put in
an anchovy or two, and thicken with flour; you may put in a few shred
capers, or a little mango, if you have it.
207. _To stew_ EELS.
Take your eels, case, clean and skewer them round, put them into a
stew-pan with a little good gravy, a little claret to redden the gravy,
a blade or two of mace, an anchovy, and a little lemon-peel; when they
are enough thicken them with a little flour and butter. Garnish your
dish with parsley.
208. _To pitch-cock_ EELS.
Take your eels, case and clean them, season them with nutmeg, pepper
and salt, skewer them round, broil them before the fire, and baste them
with a little butter; when they are almost enough strinkle them over
with a little shred parsley, and make your sauce of a little gravy,
butter, anchovy, and a little oyster pickle if you have it; don't pour
the sauce over your eels, put it into a china bason, and set it in the
middle of your dish.
Garnish with crisp parsley, and serve them up.
209. _To boil_ HERRINGS.
Take your herring, scale and wash them, take out the milt and roan,
skewer them round, and tie them with a string or else they will come
loose in the boiling and be spoil'd; set on a pretty broad stew-pan,
with as much water as will cover them, put to it a little salt, lie in
you herrings with the backs downwards boil with them the milt and roans
to lie round them; they will boil in half a quarter of an hour over a
slow fire; when they are boiled take them up with an egg slice, so turn
them over and set them to drain. Make your sauce of a little gravy and
butter, an anchovy and a little boiled parsley shred; put it into the
bason, set it in the middle of the dish, lie the herrings round with
their tails towards the bason, and lie the milts and roans between
every herring. Garnish with crisp parsley and lemon; so serve them up.
210. _To fry_ HERRINGS.
Scale and wash your herrings clean, strew over them a little flour and
salt; let your butter be very hot before you put your herrings into the
pan, then shake them to keep them stirring, and fry them over a brisk
fire; when they are fried cut off the heads and bruise them, put to
them a jill of ale, (but the ale must not be bitter) add a little
pepper and salt, a small onion or shalot, if you have them, and boil
them altogether; when they are boiled, strain them, and put them into
your sauce-pan again, thicken them with a little flour and butter, put
it into a bason, and set it in the middle of your dish; fry the milts
and roans together, and lay round your herrings. Garnish your dish with
crisp parsley, and serve it up.
211. _To pickle_ HERRINGS.
Scale and clean your herrings, take out the milts and roans, and skewer
them round, season them with a little pepper and salt, put them in a
deep pot, cover them with alegar, put to them a little whole Jamaica
pepper, and two or three bay leaves; bake them and keep them for use.
212. _To stew_ OYSTERS.
Take a score or two of oysters, according as you have occasion, put
them into a small stew-pan, with a few bread-crumbs, a little water,
shred mace and pepper, a lump of butter, and a spoonful of vinegar,
(not to make it four) boil them altogether but not over much, if you
do it makes them hard. Garnish with bread fippets, and serve them up.
213. _To fry_ OYSTERS.
Take a score or two of the largest oysters you can get, and the yolks
of four or five eggs, beat them very well, put to them a little nutmeg,
pepper and salt, a spoonful of fine flour, and a little raw parsley
shred, so dip in your oysters, and fry them in butter a light brown.
They are very proper to lie about either stew'd oysters, or any other
fish, or made dishes.
214. OYSTERS _in_ SCALLOP SHELLS.
Take half a dozen small scallop shells, lay in the bottom of every
shell a lump of butter, a few bread crumbs, and then your oysters;
laying over them again a few more bread crumbs, a little butter, and a
little beat pepper, so set them to crisp, either in the oven or before
the fire, and serve them up.
They are proper for either a side-dish or middle-dish.
215 _To keep_ HERRINGS _all the Year_.
Take fresh herrings, cut off their heads, open and wash them very
clean, season them with salt, black pepper, and Jamaica pepper, put
them into a pot, cover them with white wine vinegar and water, of each
an equal quantity, and set them in a slow oven to bake; tie the pot up
close and they will keep a year in the pickle.
216. _To make artificial_ Sturgeon _another Way_.
Take out the bones of a turbot or britt, lay it in salt twenty four
hours, boil it with good store of salt; make your pickle of white wine
vinegar and three quarts of water, boil them, and put in a little
vinegar in the boiling; don't boil it over much, if you do it will make
it soft; when 'tis enough take it out till it be cold, put the same
pickle to it, and keep it for use.
217. _To stew_ MUSHROOMS.
Take mushrooms, and clean them, the buttons you may wash, but the flaps
you must pill both inside and out; when you have cleaned them, pick out
the little ones for pickling, and cut the rest in pieces for stewing;
wash them and put them into a little water, give them a boil and it
will take off the faintness, so drain from them all the water, then put
them into a pan with a lump of butter, a little shred mace, pepper and
salt to your taste (putting them to a little water) hang them over a
slow fire for half an hour, when they are enough thicken them with a
little flour; serve them up with sippets.
218. _To make_ ALMOND PUFFS.
Take a pound of almonds blanch'd, and beat them with orange-flower
water, then take a pound of sugar, and boil them almost to a candy
height, put in your almonds and stir them on the fire, keep them
stirring till they be stiff, then take them off the fire and stir them
till they be cold; beat them a quarter of an hour in a mortar, putting
to them a pound of sugar sifted, and a little lemon-peel grated, make
it into a paste with the whites of three eggs, and beat it into a froth
more or less as you think proper; bake them in an oven almost cold, and
keep them for use.
219. _To pot_ MUSHROOMS.
Take the largest mushrooms, scrape and clean them, put them into your
pan with a lump of butter, and a little salt, let then stew over a slow
fire whilst they are enough, put to them a little mace and whole
pepper, then dry them with a cloth, and put them down into a pot as
close as you can, and as you lie them down strinkle in a little salt
and mace, when they are cold cover them over with butter; when you use
them toss them up with gravy, a few bread-crumbs and butter; do not
make your pot over large, but rather put them into two pots; they will
keep the better if you take the gravy from them when they are stewed.
They are good for fish-sauce, or any other whilst they are fresh.
220. _To fry_ TROUT, _or any other Sort of Fish_.
Take two or three eggs, more or less according as you have fish to fry,
take the fish and cut it in thin slices, lie it upon a board, rub the
eggs over it with a feather, and strow on a little flour and salt, fry
it in fine drippings or butter, let the drippings be very hot before
you put in the fish, but do not let it burn, if you do it will make the
fish black; when the fish is in the pan, you may do the other side with
the egg, and as you fry it lay it to drain before the fire till all be
fried, then it is ready for use.
221. _To make_ SAUCE _for_ SALMON _or_ TURBOT.
Boil your turbot or salmon, and set it to drain; take the gravy that
drains from the salmon or turbot, an anchovy or two, a little
lemon-peel shred, a spoonful of catchup, and a little butter, thicken
it with flour the thickness of cream, put to it a little shred parsley
and fennel; but do not put in your parsley and fennel till you be just
going to send it up, for it will take off the green.
The gravy of all sorts of fish is a great addition to your sauce, if
the fish be sweet.
222. _To dress_ COD'S ZOONS.
Lie them in water all night, and then boil them, if they be salt shift
them once in the boiling, when they are tender cut them in long pieces,
dress them up with eggs as you do salt fish, take one or two of them
and cut into square pieces, dip them in egg and fry them to lay round
your dish.
It is proper to lie about any other dish.
223. _To make_ SOLOMON GUNDY _to eat in Lent_
Take five or six white herrings, lay them in water all night, boil them
as soft as you would do for eating, and shift them in the boiling to
take out the saltness; when they are boiled take the fish from the
bone, and mind you don't break the bone in pieces, leaving on the head
and tail; take the white part of the herrings, a quarter of a pound of
anchovies, a large apple, a little onion shred fine, or shalot, and a
little lemon-peel, shred them all together, and lie them over the bones
on both sides, in the shape of a herring; then take off the peel of a
lemon very very thin, and cut it in long bits, just as it will reach
over the herrings; you must lie this peel over every herring pretty
thick. Garnish your dish with a few pickled oysters, capers, and
mushrooms, if you have any; so serve them up.
224. SOLOMAN GUNDY _another Way_.
Take the white part of a turkey, or other fowl, if you have neither,
take a little white veal and mince it pretty small; take a little hang
beef or tongues, scrape them very fine, a few shred capers, and the
yolks of four or five eggs shred small; take a delf dish and lie a delf
plate in the dish with the wrong side up, so lie on your meat and other
ingredients, all single in quarters, one to answer another; set in the
middle a large lemon or mango, so lie round your dish anchovies in
lumps, picked oysters or cockles, and a few pickled mushrooms, slices
of lemon and capers; so serve it up.
This is proper for a side-dish either at noon or night.
225. _To make_ LEMON CHEESE CAKES.
Blanch half a pound of almonds, and beat them in a stone mortar very
fine, with a little rose-water; put in eight eggs, leaving out five of
the whites; take three quarters of a pound of sugar, and three quarters
of a pound of melted butter, beat all together, then take three
lemon-skins, boiled tender, the rind and all, beat them very well, and
mix them with the rest, then put them into your paste.
You may make a lemon-pudding the same way, only add the juice of half a
lemon: Before you set them in the oven, grate over them a little fine
loaf sugar.
226. _To make white_ GINGER BREAD.
Take a little gum-dragon, lay it in rose-water all night, then take a
pound of jordan almonds blanch'd with a little of the gum-water, a
pound of double-refined sugar beat and sifted, an ounce of cinnamon
beat with a little rose-water, work it into a paste and print it, then
set it in a stove to dry.
227. _To make red_ GINGER BREAD.
Take a quart and a jill of red wine, a jill and a half of brandy, seven
or eight manshets, according to the size the bread is, grate them, (the
crust must be dried, beat and sifted) three pounds and a half of sugar
beat and sifted, two ounces of cinnamon, and two ounces of ginger beat
and sifted, a pound of almonds blanched and beat with rose-water, put
the bread into the liquor by degrees, stirring it all the time, when
the bread is all well mix'd take it off the fire; you must put the
sugar, spices, and almonds into it, when it is cold print it; keep some
of the spice to dust the prints with.
228. _To make a_ GREAT CAKE.
Take five pounds of fine flour, (let it be dried very well before the
fire) and six pounds of currans well dress'd and rub'd in cloths after
they are wash'd, set them in a sieve before the fire; you must weigh
your currans after they are cleaned, then take three quarters of an
ounce of mace, two large nutmegs beaten and mix'd amongst the flour,
and pound of powder sugar, and pound of citron, and a pound of candid
orange, (cut your citron and orange in pretty large pieces) and a pound
of almonds cut in three or four pieces long way; then take sixteen
eggs, leaving out half of the whites, beat your sugar and eggs for half
an hour with a little salt; take three jills of cream, and three pounds
and a half of butter, melt your butter with part of the cream for fear
it should be too hot, put in between a jack and a jill of good brandy,
a quart of light yeast, and the rest of the cream, mix all your liquors
together about blood-warm, make a hole in the middle of your flour, and
put in the liquids, cover it half an hour and let it stand to rise,
then put in your currans and mix all together; butter your hoop, tie a
paper three fold, and put it at the bottom in your hoop; just when they
are ready to set in the oven, put the cake into your hoop at three
times; when you have laid a little paste at the bottom, lay in part of
your sweet-meats and almonds, then put in a little paste over them
again, and the rest of your sweet-meats and almonds, and set it in a
quick oven; two hours will bake it.
229. _To make_ ICEING _for this_ CAKE.
Take two pounds of double-refined sugar, beat it, and sift it through a
fine sieve; put to it a spoonful of fine starch, a pennyworth of
gum-arabic, beat them all well together; take the whites of four or
five eggs, beat them well, and put to them a spoonful of rose-water, or
orange-flower water, a spoonful of the juice of lemon, beat them with
the whites of your eggs, and put in a little to your sugar till you wet
it, then beat them for two hours whilst your cake is baking; if you
make it over thin it will run; when you lie it on your cake you must
lie it on with a knife; if you would have the iceing very thick, you
must add a little more sugar; wipe off the loose currans before you put
on the iceing, and put it into the oven to harden the iceing.
230. _To make a_ PLUMB CAKE.
Take five pounds of flour dried and cold, mix to it an ounce of mace,
half an ounce of cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce of nutmegs, half a
quarter of an ounce of lemon-peel grated, and a pound of fine sugar;
take fifteen eggs, leaving out seven of the whites, beat your eggs with
half a jill of brandy or sack, a little orange-flower water, or rose
water; then put to your eggs near a quart of light yeast, set it on the
fire with a quart of cream, and three pounds of butter, let your butter
melt in the cream, so let it stand till new milk warm, then skim off
all the butter and most of the milk, and mix it to your eggs and yeast;
make a hole in the middle of your flour, and put in your yeast,
strinkle at the tip a little flour, then mix to it a little salt, six
pounds of currans well wash'd clean'd, dry'd, pick'd, and plump'd by
the fire, a pound of the best raisins stoned, and beat them altogether
whilst they leave the bowl; put in a pound of candid orange, and half a
pound of citron cut in long pieces; then butter the garth and fill it
full; bake it in a quick oven, against it be enough have an iceing
ready.
231. _To make a_ CARRAWAY CAKE.
Take eighteen eggs, leave out half of the whites, and beat them; take
two pounds of butter, wash the butter clear from milk and salt, put to
it a little rose-water, and wash your butter very well with your hands
till it take up all the eggs, then mix them in half a jack of brandy
and sack; grate into your eggs a lemon rind; put in by degrees (a
spoonful at a time) two pounds of fine flour, a pound and a half of
loaf sugar, that is sifted and dry; when you have mixed them very well
with your hands, take a thible and beat it very well for half an hour,
till it look very white, then mix to it a few seeds, six ounces of
carraway comfits, and half a pound of citron and candid orange; then
beat it well, butter your garth, and put it in a quick oven.
232. _To make_ CAKES _to keep all the Year_.
Have in readiness a pound and four ounces of flour well dried, take a
pound of butter unsalted, work it with a pound of white sugar till it
cream, three spoonfuls of sack, and the rind of an orange, boil it till
it is not bitter, and beat it with sugar, work these together, then
clean your hands, and grate a nutmeg into your flour, put in three eggs
and two whites, mix them well, then with a paste-pin or thible stir in
your flour to the butter, make them up into little cakes, wet the top
with sack and strow on fine sugar; bake them on buttered papers, well
floured, but not too much; you may add a pound of currans washed and
warmed.
233. _To make_ SHREWSBERRY CAKES.
Take two pounds of fine flour, put to it a pound and a quarter of
butter (rub them very well) a pound and a quarter of fine sugar sifted,
grate in a nutmeg, beat in three whites of eggs and two yolks, with a
little rose-water, and so knead your paste with it, let it lay an hour,
then make it up into cakes, prick them and lay them on papers, wet them
with a feather dipt in rose-water, and grate over them a little fine
sugar; bake them in a slow oven, either on tins or paper.
234. _To make a fine_ CAKE.
Take five pounds of fine flour dried, and keep it warm; four pounds of
loaf sugar pounded, sifted and warmed; five pounds of currans well
cleaned and warmed before the fire; a pound and a half of almonds
blanch'd beat, dried, slit and kept warm; five pounds of good butter
well wash'd and beat from the water; then work it an hour and a half
till it comes to a fine cream; put to the butter all the sugar, work it
up, and then the flour, put in a pint of brandy, then all the whites
and yolks of the eggs, mix all the currans and almonds with the rest.
There must be four pounds of eggs in weight in the shells, the yolks
and the whites beat and separated, the whites beat to a froth; you must
not cease beating till they are beat to a curd, to prevent oiling; to
the quantity of a cake put a pound and a half of orange-peel and citron
shred, without plumbs, and half a pound of carraway seeds, it will
require four hours baking, and the oven must be as hot as for bread,
but let it be well slaked when it has remained an hour in the oven, and
stop it close; you may ice it if you please.
235. _To make a_ SEED CAKE.
Take one quartern of fine flour well dried before the fire, when it is
cold rub in a pound of butter; take three quarters of a pound of
carraway comfits, six spoonfuls of new yeast, six spoonfuls of cream,
the yolks of six eggs and two whites, and a little sack; mix all of
these together in a very light paste, set it before the fire till it
rise, and so bake it in a tin.
236. _To make an ordinary_ PLUMB CAKE.
Take a pound of flour well dried before the fire, a pound of currans,
two penny-worth of mace and cloves, two eggs, four spoonfuls of good
new yeast, half a pound of butter, half a pint of cream, melt the
butter, warm the cream, and mix altogether in a very light paste,
butter your tin before you put it in; an hour will bake it.
237. _To make an_ ANGELICA CAKE.
Take the stalks of angelica boil and green them very well, put to every
pound of pulp a pound of loaf sugar beaten very well, and when you
think it is beaten enough, lay them in what fashion you please on
glasses, and as they candy turn them.
238. _To make_ KING CAKES.
Take a pound of flour, three quarters of a pound of butter, half a
pound of sugar and half a pound of currans, well cleaned; rub your
butter well into your flour, and put in as many yolks of eggs as will
lithe them, then put in your sugar, currans, and some mace, shred in as
much as will give them a taste, so make them up in little round cakes,
and butter the papers you lie them on.
239. _To make_ BREAKFAST CAKES.
Take a pound of currans well washed, (rub them in a cloth till dry) a
pound of flour dried before a fire, take three eggs, leave out one of
the whites, four spoonfuls of new yeast, and four spoonfuls of sack or
two of brandy, beat the yeast and eggs well together; then take a jill
of cream, and something above a quarter of a pound of butter, set them
on a fire, and stir them till the butter be melted, (but do not let
them boil) grate a large nutmeg into the flour, with currans and five
spoonfuls of sugar; mix all together, beat it with your hand till it
leave the bowl, then flour the tins you put the paste in, and let them
stand a little to rise, then bake them an hour and a quarter.
240. _To make_ MACCAROONS.
Take a pound of blanched almonds and beat them, put some rose-water in
while beating; (they must not be beaten too small) mix them with the
whites of five eggs, a pound of sugar finely beaten and sifted, and a
handful of flour, mix all these very well together, lay them on wafers,
and bake them in a very temperate oven, (it must not be so hot as for
manchet) then they are fit for use.
241. _To make_ WHIGGS.
Take two pounds of flour, a pound of butter, a pint of cream, four
eggs, (leaving out two of the whites) and two spoonfuls of yeast, set
them to rise a little; when they are mixed add half a pound of sugar,
and half a pound of carraway comfits, make them up with sugar and bake
them in a dripping pan.
242. _To make_ RASBERRY CREAM.
Take rasberries, bruise them, put 'em in a pan on a quick fire whilst
the juice be dried up, then take the same weight of sugar as you have
rasberries, and set them on a slow fire, let them boil whilst they are
pretty stiff; make them into cakes, and dry them near the fire or in
the sun.
243. _To make_ QUEEN CAKES.
Take a pound of London flour dry'd well before the fire, nine eggs, a
pound of loaf sugar beaten and sifted, put one half to your eggs and
the other to your butter; take a pound of butter and melt it without
water put it into a stone bowl, when it is almost cold put in your
sugar and a spoonful or two of rose water, beat it very quick, for half
an hour, till it be as white as cream; beat the eggs and sugar as long
and very quick, whilst they be white; when they are well beat mix them
all together; then take half a pound of currans cleaned well, and a
little shred of mace, so you may fill one part of your tins before you
put in your currans; you may put a quarter of a pound of almonds shred
(if you please) into them that is without currans; you may ice them if
you please, but do not let the iceing be thicker than you may lie on
with a little brush.
244. _To make a_ BISKET CAKE.
Take a pound of London flour dry'd before the fire, a pound of loaf
sugar beaten and sifted, beat nine eggs and a spoonful or two of rose
water with the sugar for two hours, then put them to your flour and mix
them well together; put in an ounce of carraway seeds, then put it into
your tin and bake it an hour and a half in a pretty quick oven.
245. _To make_ CRACKNELS.
Take half a pound of fine flour, half a pound of sugar, two ounces of
butter, two eggs, and a few carraway seeds; (you must beat and sift the
sugar) then put it to your flour and work it to paste; roll them as
thin as you can, and cut them out with queen cake tins, lie them on
papers and bake them in a slow oven.
They are proper to eat with chocolate.
246. _To make_ PORTUGAL CAKES.