caught and search for his trail, and soon Pont began to wag his tail.
I merely worked Pont's way and said, "Has he gone that way?" Pont
gave me to understand that the fox had gone that way and that he knew
what was wanted. The trail soon left the main hollow and took up a
little draft. A little way up this we found where the fox had been
fast in some bushes but had freed himself and left and gone up the
hillside. Pont soon began to get uneasy, and when I said hunt him out
Pont, away he went and in a few minutes I heard Pont give a long howl
and I knew that he had holed his game. When I came up to Pont he was
working in a hole in some shell rocks. I pulled away some loose rocks
and could see the fox, and we soon had him out, and Pont seemed more
pleased over the hunt than I was. There was scarcely a week that Pont
did not help us out on the trap line.
Not unfrequently did Pont show me a 'coon den. I had some difficulty
in teaching Pont to let the porcupines alone, but after a time he
learned that they were not the kind of game that he wanted, and he
paid no more attention to them.
I have had many different dogs on the trap line with me, and I can
say to any one who can understand dog's language, has a liking for a
dog and has a reasonable amount of patience and is willing to use it,
will find a well trained dog of much benefit on the trap line, and
often a more genial companion than some partners one may fall in
with. But if one is so constituted that he must give his dog a growl
or a kick every time he comes in reach, and perhaps only give his dog
half enough to eat and cannot treat a dog as a friend, then I say,
leave the dog off the trap line.
[Illustration: A Group of Typical Sledge Dogs.]
CHAPTER XIX.
SLEDGE DOGS OF THE NORTH.
Not a hunting dog in a strict sense of the word, yet most important
in that connection, is the sledge dog, in transportation of hunters
and their outfits to and from the hunting and trapping scenes.
Following is a first hand, specially written article by Colonel F. H.
Buzzacott, the intrepid Arctic explorer. That he writes from
experience is evident, which necessarily adds interest and value to
his highly interesting contribution.
What the Indian pony is to the plain Indian, the Pack Horse or Mule
is to the White Settler, Hunter or Trapper, the Sledge Dog or
Reindeer is to natives of the distant and Far North. An old saying
among frontiersmen is that a white man will abandon a horse as broken
down and utterly unable to go when a Mexican will take that same
horse and make him go a hundred miles further, while an Indian after
all of this will mount and ride him for a week still.
With all Indians, natives of the north or Esquimaux, knives are
luxuries, ponies and dogs, necessities. Yet, for all that, they are
never stabled, curried, washed, blanketed, shod, seldom protected or
even fed. When the icy cold wintry blasts sweep the drifting snows
over plain and valley and buries under his white mantle his food he
either digs for it, finds and eats what he can, or starves.
In my plains experience with the Indians or in the Polar Regions with
the natives of the north or Esquimaux, I have observed that the love
of an Indian for his ponies, an Esquimaux for his dogs or Laplander
for his reindeer consists in seeing how much he really can get out of
them with the least trouble or effort to him.
I have seen the Indians or natives of the northwest and the Esquimaux
of Hudson's and Baffin's Bay, Greenland, etc., drive half starved
dogs to the sledge until they fell or froze, only to be eaten by
their masters or mates, whom for a lifetime they had pulled with or
served faithfully. Necessity recognizes no law--man is but an animal
himself--and in the struggle for life or gain it is everywhere but
the "Survival of the Fittest" or strongest and passing of the weak,
be it white man or Indian.
The best of the "Sledge Dogs of the North" are to be found in
Greenland or Siberia, "Samoyed" dogs or its Esquimaux cousin, the
"Immit Dog", used by explorers and Esquimaux generally. Those with
short, thick hair, medium build, size and full breed are considered
the best for all around work. They will exist and work well on one
pound of food per day, or a big feast once a week. Their food
consists mostly of dried and fresh fish, carrion or fresh, or, if
with explorers, dog biscuit added.
They closely resemble a wolf and howl like one. Are of various colors
and sizes, iron grey predominating. They average about two feet four
inches in height by three feet six inches in length, of unusually
light weight for their size, owing to the bristle out appearance of
their hair which adds to their real size. As a rule females are
killed at birth, except those few to suffice for breeding. Commence
training at six months to a year old and when two or three years old
and seasoned to work are considered prime and preferable for long
heavy distant sledging and hunting.
The best trained of the team (eight, twelve or more in number) is
selected as a leader. They are guided by voice and whip, a loud
"Brr-Brr" taking the place of our "Gee" in starting and the word
"Sass-Sass" used as "Whoa." "Hi" and "He" for right and left, "Ho" to
correct, or speed, as they are trained, of course. A good leader
possesses the quality of rarely failing to lead one safely over any
route once traveled by them, bringing you safely to the place even if
buried under the snow.
They eat each other's flesh wolf-like with gusto and will tear their
fellows to pieces in fight or injury, unless beaten, torn apart or
separated by a man of whom they are afraid. They hate water in winter
as much as they love it in summer when they frequent the salmon
streams and support themselves by fishing, pounce upon nearing fish
of any size that approach them, much as does the bear, two of them
even tackling an immensely big fish and fighting to secure and bring
it to shore. As bear, muskox, or reindeer, dogs, a pack of them will
invariably round up, hold or drive anything sighted within reasonable
distance so long as the hunters will follow on, needing but little
urging, as they realize the prospect of a "good big feast," hence get
busy to the end; younger dogs often paying the penalty with their
lives but seldom older ones.
As a rule, rawhide or seal harness is used in the far north, Alaska
and Greenland and by the Esquimaux but with the explorers these
consist mostly of canvas collar like attachments made of fourfold
strips, two of which pass or slip over the critter's back, the other
two between the forelegs, the whole united to a trace and this in
turn fastened by a toggle, hook or ring to the sledge or drag rope.
The dogs are hitched to this, either side of the drag, or alternately
single or double, distant a few feet from each other. The guiding dog
or leader is ahead leading while the others follow. Where canvas
harness or steel wire rope is used on the drag by "Expeditions" it is
because it lessens the chances of the harness being stolen, chewed or
eaten, when rations become scarce.
In heavy traveling they are used and hitched double for fast travel,
alternate and single as exigencies require and will travel from 10 to
50 miles a day according to conditions of road, load, snow, ice, etc.
When hitched or prior to it, they are usually lightly fed so as to
bring them to reach their destination and "Tether," loafers soon
learn that they must earn their food. At times when worked hard, they
get off feed, so to speak, sulk and refuse to come up to a drag. In
which case the remaining dogs must do the work and rarely do they
fail to whine, show their contempt for such action and punish "His
Nibs" at the first chance later on, even pining to get at him, sled
and all, as they observe him following behind alone.
On hard pulls, or uneven drags, they play out easily, act mulish,
refusing to budge until the sled is started or at variance with each
other. Otherwise, the start is a steady pull until well under way. A
good team double will pull easily a load of 1,000 pounds or more,
single about one-half, depending largely on condition of themselves
and the road they travel. The Esquimaux seldom spares them or the
whip, "Brring" them on and "Hi-ying" if needs be.
About eight hours' work constitutes a day's travel or they go until
played out, the latter case most likely. When traveling they are
fairly obedient and preserve a steady equal pulling that occasionally
is relieved by a jerky, gallop-like pace. Well trained dogs preserve
their pace and tug on the harness for hours at a time. Usually they
stop every hour or so for breathing spells as the atmosphere in those
regions winds them easily. If traveling fast on ice and one falls or
slips, he is dragged along, half strangled, until he regains his
feet, place and position in line again, or, becoming tangled he is
loosened up. By this time he has been snapped a few times by the dogs
about him as if to punish him for his carelessness.
Ordinarily, the leader responds promptly to the driver's voice,
guiding, turning, halting or increasing speed at the given command.
When, however, they scent game, they become difficult to manage,
requiring utmost application of the whip to keep the trail or
direction and this invariably ends in confusion, hopeless tangle and
upset sledge.
Handling, feeding, training calls for more judgment and patience than
skill, driving especially. They refuse to cross apparently weak yet
tested ice, pressure ridges, ice or snow cracks and mule-like, will
make a plunging jump over a depression (when in trace) which
ordinarily would not call for a leap at all. They require
watchfulness on the part of the driver over cross country or when not
following the trail, lest they sheer off from a given direction or
straight line.
[Illustration: Sledge Dog.--Photo From Life.]
When following the trail much confidence is vested in the leader and
should perchance it strike a blind or cross trail, it will howl to
attract the attention of the driver and by these means verify
directions, as if to ask if it is leading right. In case it loses the
track it will slow up, whine, run up or criss-cross its tracks,
sniffing and smelling in an anxious, expectant way, until it finds or
is led correct, when it howls with delight and pulls off "like
blazes" again.
They have strange likes and dislikes. As entire pack will punish one
who incurs the displeasure at times to an extent of crippling or
killing each other. If a strange dog comes amongst them he is pretty
sure to get "mauled" or his scraping abilities put to test, which
usually ends in a free-for-all fight, catch as catch can rules
predominating.
When in harness training a young dog gets punished frequently by its
mates for any awkwardness it shows. Old dogs especially show contempt
for a new or strange dog which takes its mate's place, be it pup or
otherwise, and will often sulk if their place is changed. Each seems
to think his place is best, the leader especially being particularly
proud of his honored position in "Dogdom." As a rule, existing
difficulties or arguments in harness are stored up until that day's
march is over, because of fear of punishment from the driver, but as
soon as turned loose, they settle the difficulty of the day by
another scrap, in which often one bunch will participate in, "take
sides," and chew up each other, until all pitch in, aiming to settle
things somehow. If too tired, they await the morrow. As a rule, the
best sledge dogs are the poorest scrappers (so we have to be partial
at times) especially to the leader who is usually the most
intelligent; hence favored.
In a pinch, when game and rations are scarce, they make good eating,
of course, being sacrificed. At these times, their peculiar savage
nature asserts itself, when you kill one for food, by signs of joy,
rather than fear for they seem to be devoid of sympathy or unaffected
by the scene. Their flesh is pale, tender and tasteless much like
rabbit, bloodless and poor, and they will eat anything from a tin can
label to Kipling's "Rag, Bone or Hank of Hair." When meat is plenty,
they take on flesh and fatten quickly but seldom does this happen as
the Esquimaux says, "Him no good, lazy, much fat."
Wolf-like, stolen food tastes better and one will leave his own
ration to steal a fellow's equal share and risking by his greediness
both, as it is stolen in turn by another. Their thieving propensities
are great, a tin can of meat, skin boots, oil lamp, old soup kettle,
or their own harness if sealskin or rawhide.
[Illustration: Rough and Ready Sledge Dog.]
Tied, penned up or left harnessed any length of time, they assert
their belief in "Liberty and Equality" by chewing their way to
freedom if it takes a week to do it. As a rule, the dogs respect a
female and will seldom molest her. These give birth to a litter of
from 4 to 8 pups which are generally killed at birth, unless a
scarcity of them, fat "puppy dog" being with the paunch of the
reindeer considered a regular "Delmonico" dish. The average
usefulness of their existence is about 6 to 8 years, the old dogs
following the same road as fat puppies, after their usefulness has
seen the limit. Fall bred dogs are best. Alaskan dogs are larger and
heavier and the same rule applies to Labrador species, but as they
are of mixed breed, lazier and require more food they are only used
to advantage where they belong--at home.
As a rule, they exist, breed and sleep in the open, the soft side of
a drifting snow bank being a luxury, especially if it drifts about
them up to the muzzle, and it is only vacated when dangerous. They
seek the warmest spots they can find, a rope coil, rag or paper, or
even a tin can to lie on, in preference to ice or hard snow. Failing
in this, they will dig a hole in the soft snow and bury themselves in
this, lying one on top of the other in bitter weather. The best of
Arctic or Polar dogs, while they withstand cold to surprising degree,
nevertheless, suffer with the cold and danger of freezing, especially
in winter time when food is scarce or frozen and snow serves to
quench thirst, a wet foot or crippled limb being the first to suffer.
In bitter weather I have seen them roll and run to maintain
circulation. They huddle together, shivering, hold up their paws and
whine pitifully and appealingly.
They receive a kind word by a show of teeth instead of a wag--indeed,
are anything but friendly, except at "chuck" time and then limit it
to the grub with a few exceptions, of course. Most of them, however,
Indian-like, believe in the old maxim "Familiarity breeds contempt"
and thus they treat kindness with suspicion and turn tail as if it
preceded work or a licking and perhaps both.
If left alone any length of time, one will start up a coyote-like
howl and all join in one after the other in the chorus that takes the
appearance of a man with a "big stick" to quell. If left alone they
will keep it up for hours, stopping as it commenced by degrees,
apparently without reason. They are fed when circumstances permit and
if permitted, will gorge themselves to the point of bursting, eating
enough to last a week and camping alongside of it until even the
bones are cleaned up and not enough left to feed a fly. Indian-like,
however, they are always on hand for the next meal, hungry again.
When traveling, they are fed a little daily, but when not, exist on
wind, bones and kicks, fish offal and refuse thrown out, or hunt for
themselves like wolves, after Arctic hares, lemmings or anything they
can find.
In winter time, dogs are often the main food of the Esquimaux and as
fat or oil is generally scarce, are eaten raw instead of cooked, oil
being too valuable at this time to be wasted on dog. Its taste to the
white man largely depends on one's hunger or digestive cravings. If
half-starved, it is voted "just excellent." If not, it is "just dog,"
that's all. Yet, if the pangs of hunger gnaw one's vitals,
repugnance, position in life, creed, superstition, opinions, likes
and dislikes, self-respect, all give way to the cravings of an empty
stomach; especially in that trackless great white desert called the
"Distant Polar Regions."
Such is the life and existence of these, the sledge dogs of the
north.
PART IV.
THE HUNTING DOG FAMILY.
[Illustration: Worthy of the Name, Fox Hounds.]
CHAPTER XX.
AMERICAN FOX HOUNDS.
Those who make a science of breeding and training fox hounds, and
indulge in the chase for sport only, have a nearly identical standard
of the ideal the country over. Even he who chases the fox for profit
may find valuable information and interest in such a standard, even
though they may be convinced that their hounds, though without
pedigree, are capable dogs.
At a gathering of the foremost sportsmen of this country, in 1905,
the following standard was fixed as ideal:
The American foxhound should be smaller and lighter in muscle and
bone, than the English foxhound. Dogs should not be under 21 nor over
23 1/2 in., nor weigh more than 57 pounds. Bitches should not be
under 20 nor over 22 1/2 inches nor weigh more than 50 pounds.
The head (value 15) should be of medium size with muzzle in
harmonious proportions.
The skull should be rounded cross-wise with a slight peak, line of
profile nearly straight, with sufficient stop to give symmetry to the
head.
Ears should meet to within one inch of end of muzzle, should be thin,
soft in coat, low set and closely pendant.
Eyes soft, medium size, and varying shades of brown. Nostrils
slightly expanded. The head as a whole should denote hound character.
The neck (value 5) must be clean and of good length, slightly arched,
strong where it springs from the shoulders and gradually tapering to
the head, without trace of throatiness.
The shoulders (value 10) must be of sufficient length to give
leverage and power, well sloped, muscular, but with clean run and not
too broad.
Chest and back ribs (value 10). The chest should be deep for lung
space, narrower in proportion to depth than the English hound, 28
inches in a 23 1/2 inch hound being good. Well sprung ribs, back ribs
should extend well back, a three-inch flank allowing springiness.
Back and loin (value 10) should be broad, short and strong, slightly
arched.
The hindquarters and lower thighs (value 10) must be well muscled and
very strong. The stifle should be low set, not too much bent, nor yet
too straight, a happy medium.
The elbows (value 5) should set straight, neither in nor out.
Legs and feet (value 20) are of great importance. Legs should be
straight and placed squarely under shoulder, having plenty of bone
without clumsiness, strong pasterns well stood upon. Feet round, cat
like, not too large, toes well knuckled, close and compact, strong
nails, pad thick, tough and indurated by use.
Color and coat (value 5). Black, white and tan are preferable, though
the solids and various pies are permissible. Coat should be rough and
course without being wiry or shaggy.
Symmetry (value 5). The form of the hound should be harmonious
thruout. He should show his blood quality and hound character in
every aspect and movement. If he scores high in other properties,
symmetry is bound to follow.
The stern (value 5) must be strong in bone at the root, of a medium
length, carried like a sabre on line with the spine and must have a
good brush. A docked stern shall not disqualify, but simply handicap
according to extent of docking.
SUMMARY.
Head 15, neck 5, shoulders 10, chest and back ribs 10, hindquarters
and lower thighs 10, back and loin 10, elbows 5, legs and feet 20,
color and coat 5, stern 5, symmetry 5. Total 100.
THE GREY HOUND.
Without doubt, the grey hound, bred almost solely for speed, is the
fleetest runner on earth.
In a general way it may be said that the grey hound pursues by sight
only, yet some experienced hunters will contend that they can follow
a fairly warm trail successfully, if trained to it. It is not natural
for them, however, to take and follow an old track until the game is
started, but what they lack in that way is made up in speed.
[Illustration: Good Specimens.]
It has been a favorite practice for decades to take advantage of his
speed, by crossing with other strains, resulting in courage, tenacity
and trailing powers, very useful in several kinds of hunting.
This type of dog, either pure bred or crossed lends himself readily
to deer, wolf, fox or rabbit chasing, and is especially successful if
hunted in company with good trailers. The latter start the game when
the grey hound goes forward and effects a capture, or so interferes
with progress, that the other dogs come up and finish the work.
A bit of practical talk on the subject from the pen of a grey hound
enthusiast is appended:
I have always had grey hounds. If they are let run with the track
hounds when they are young they soon learn to take a track, run away
from the pack and catch the game. I have some one-half grey hound and
one-half bloodhound or fox hound. No better dogs living. Great
fighters, stay as long as the game runs. This kind are good bear
dogs. I keep live 'coon to train pups on and commence to train them
at 4 or 5 months old. The older they get the longer races I give
them.
SCOTCH DEER HOUND.
An excellent deer hound is half scotch deer hound and one-half grey
hound, and I will say there is no breed called stag hound, writes a
well informed Canadian deer hunter. All that claim that name are
overgrown fox hounds used in England for that purpose. Thompson Gray
in "Dogs of Scotland," written in 1890, says that the first mention
of the Scotch deer hound was in "Pitcotts History of Scotland." It is
of the same family as the grey hound and has been spoken of by early
writers as the Rough Scotch Grey Hound.
He is more massive, is about three inches taller than the grey hound
and has a rough coat. His vocation is to course the stag and the
deer. He, like the grey hound must not use his nose when hunting his
quarry and for this reason great speed is absolutely necessary. His
head is somewhat longer and wider across the skull than that of the
grey hound and the hair on the sides of the lip form a mustache.
Small ears are a sign of good breeding. They should be set on high
and at the back of the skull and be semi-erect when at attention.
The coat is hard in texture, without any silkiness. The color most
admired is blue grizzle with its various shades but brindle and fawn,
either light or dark are admirable. There should be no white on any
part of the body. As to formation, he should be made on the same
lines as the grey hound.
THE BLOOD HOUND.
The original and oldest of the hound family is the blood hound. He
takes his name from having originally been used to track wounded
animals to their lairs. Their fame to the public is based on their
use as man trailers, which gained more notice at about the time of
the Civil War than before or since. There is considerable question as
to their infallibility and powers in this direction. While nearly any
dog can, if he wishes, trail a human being, and while the blood hound
is the best scented of the dog family, it is rather doubtful if all
the things that have been written about the blood hounds and slave
fugitives are true.
[Illustration: Blood Hound.]
Bloodhounds are known under several names, such as, Cuban, Siberian,
St. Hubert blood hounds, etc.
Civil authorities and detectives, the country over, employ the blood
hounds to trail criminals, or rather ostensibly to bring them to
justice. Rarely do they succeed in actually capturing a fleeing
culprit, however, if he has passed over sections trampled over by
many other people.
The blood hound, as has been mentioned before, is quite useful in
breeding hunting dogs for specific purposes.
Some light of experience is furnished us by a Pennsylvania breeder,
as follows:
In regard to blood hounds or a cross between the blood hound and fox
hound, they are good hunters on wolf, fox, 'coon and bear. In fact,
they are all around good dogs, great fighters on game. They are
tough, active, will stand a long run and come home and not seem to be
tired.
The blood hound is a good man as well as an animal hunter. They will
stand the longest races and not tire. In fifty years breeding from
the best, these dogs are all that are needed in a hound dog.
On the same subject a Western brother says:
I have bred dogs for 55 years from most of the kennels in this
country, England and other countries. I like English blood hound or
one-half hound and one-half fox hound. They are sharp scented, fast
runners, good stayers, good fighters and game for fox and wolf
hunting.
[Illustration: "As Pretty as a Picture." (Beagles.)]
CHAPTER XXI.
THE BEAGLE DACHSHUND AND BASSET HOUNDS.
"A few years ago I gave up the large hound for the beagle hound, as I
hunt rabbit a good deal now and I find it good sport with the right
kind of beagles," writes a beagle enthusiast of the middle west,
"but, of course, they are just like fox hounds or any other breed of
dogs, many of them would be better training themselves in the happy
hunting grounds. The main thing is to get the right strain of
beagles, of which there are several. Champion Bannerman, imported by
J. Crane, Esq., about 1884, has had a great influence towards
producing the smaller size. Of course every man to his opinion as to
size. Some prefer the small, while others the larger size. The
importation by General Rowett, of Carlinsville, Ill., which has been
known since as the Rowett strain, when it comes to beauty and hunting
qualities combined, are very good, in fact, are among the best. The
blue cap strain imported into the country by Captain William Ausheton
from the kennels of Sir Arthur Ashburnham along in the seventies.
This strain seems to have a stronger love for the scent of the rabbit
than anything else.
By crossing strains it is possible to get beagles with a fierce
hunting disposition, that will hunt and fight anything that wears
fur, keen scent (remember the beagle is strong in the blood hound
blood) wide chest, heavy bone, round fat feet that can put up a hard
day's work every day.
THE DACHSHUND.
We are indebted to Mr. William Loeffler for the following
comprehensive, entertaining special article on the little understood
Dachshund:
Of the many breeds of dogs in existence, none have gained more
friends and won more hearts and a stronger hold in American home in a
comparative short time than the Dachshund.
Those who have not seen a single specimen and are entirely ignorant
regarding his characteristics, know him by continued caricature.
For centuries back he was the most favored pet of German aristocracy,
carefully guarded and upheld in his purity, and it was only
occasionally that an outsider received a specimen. A gift of a
Dachshund was considered a token of high esteem.
[Illustration: True Dachshund Specimens.]
Though he has not lost a particle of his prestige in this respect,
and has strong admirers in the royal families of Europe, he is
rapidly becoming a cosmopolitan; with his little crooked legs he now
travels over many lands, making friends wherever he lands.
At all times Dachshunde were in charge of professional hunters, who
developed their instinct for hunting wonderfully, and the courage,
endurance and strength exhibited in pursuing their game is
astonishing and marvelous.
The long body, short and muscular legs, the entire strength being
centered in his deep chest, indicate that he is intended for work
under ground.
To attack a badger or a fox in his own burrow requires bravery of a
high degree, especially as the dog is in most cases much smaller than
his game. He relies upon the strength of his jaws and his wonderfully
developed set of teeth for his work and does not snap or bite at
random, but his attack is usually well aimed and effective.
The game-keeper's duty is to destroy all enemies of the game
entrusted to his care, consequently foxes, badgers, minks and other
vermin are at all times subject to extermination, and the Dachshund
is his untiring and able assistant in this work.
His scenting power is of the keenest and he will locate his prey very
quickly when he strikes a trail. A fox generally leaves his burrow
when the dog enters his domain and falls a victim to the gunner's
aim; not so with the badger, who crawl into a corner of his burrow,
and two dogs in most cases attack him from different entries, and
finally crowd him so that he will stay at bay. The location of the
badger can easily be given by the barking of the dogs, and the hunter
digs down with pick and spade, when the ground permits such work,
until the badger can be seen. By means of a fork pushed over his neck
the badger is held and captured.
The Dachshund is also invaluable for finding wounded deer; for which
purpose the hunter usually chains the dog, who then leads his master
over the trail to locate the game.
At home the Dachshund's disposition changes entirely; he is now a
most affectionate and docile animal, and shows by his every
expression his attachment for his master and his family. His
intelligence is surprising; as a watch or house dog he has few
equals, the slightest disturbance will not escape his keen senses and
the alarm is given. Most always one member of the family he selects
as his special idol, in many cases a child, and it is amusing to
watch him, how he does everything in his power to show his affection,
following every step taken by his beloved friend. He will frolic for
hours and never seem to tire or lose his good temper, and he is
always on hand when wanted. He knows the friends of the family and
never molests them, but he will not tolerate tramps.
The color of the Dachshund is of great variety, the original stock
being black and tan, from which later developed chocolate and tan,
gray and tan and single color red, ranging from fawn to dark mahogany
red. The spotted Dachshund, such as black and tan as a ground color
showing silver gray patches of irregular sizes throughout the black
field is of comparatively recent development. Most all have short and
glossy coats.
The unusual shape of this dog, combined with a beautiful color, the
graceful and dignified walk, the aristocratic bearing, will draw the
attention and admiration of every one who sees him.
THE BASSET HOUND.
The American beagle has a brother in France, called the Basset. He is
slow, acute scenter and in general has characteristics in common with
the beagle.
Those few dogs in this country erroneously called Basset hounds,
(aside from a very few imported for bench show purposes) are
doubtless resulted from beagle and mongrel crossed.
[Illustration: A Pure Pointer.]
CHAPTER XXII.
POINTERS AND SETTERS.--SPANIELS.
It is not within our province to dwell at length upon the subject of
"bird" dogs. We will content ourselves with briefly pointing out some
more salient points of appearance and character. Those who wish to
make a study and follow extensively wing shooting, and raise and
train suitable dogs for the purpose, may obtain books relating
exclusively to that subject.
While adapted to the same purposes in the field, there are
differences in the appearance and methods of pointers and setters
that give rise to two distinct classes.
In the field, if we may take for granted the claims of men long
schooled in wing shooting, we may say in a general way, that the
pointer excels in woods--heavy cover, and brushy sections. In such
places a slower dog is required as well as one that willingly hunts
close to the shooter.
For work in open fields or over prairie land, the setter is perhaps
better suited, because he, as a rule, "has greater speed, wider
range, greater endurance and staying qualities. If retrieving from
water came into play, the setter also would have the preference. As
to which of the two breeds has the best nose, and which is the better
bird finder, nothing can be said with a degree of certainty--they are
equal, but there is a vast difference in individuals. The same is
true as to retaining inculcated training."
[Illustration: Royal Sports.--Pointers in Action.]
The pointer is the older breed, being a product of the middle ages.
He bobs up, ever and anon, in the history of hunting down to the
present. There has been now and again some inclination to cross the
pointer and fox hounds, among huntsmen, some claiming even in this
day that it improves either type of dog for his given duties.
Purists, however, insist on keeping them pure and undefiled.
In appearance the pointer is larger than the setter, and gives one an
impression of solidity and strength; his coat should be soft and
mellow, but not absolutely silky. The hair is short and straight.
The setter's coat should be long, straight and silky (a slight wave
is admissible) which should be the case with the breeches and fore
legs, which, nearly down to the feet, should be well feathered. The
color may be either white and black, white and orange, white and
lemon, white and liver, or black, white and tan; those without heavy
patches on the body, but flecked all over, called Belton, preferred.
There is, as in most other questions of hunting and shooting
experiences, wide difference of opinion as to the relative values of
the two breeds for practical field work and bench purposes.
The casual field shooter will not go wrong in selecting either kind,
so long as he secures a creditable and really representative
individual.
[Illustration: Setter.]
A distinct setter strain is the black and tan Gordon. Writes an
authority: "The Gordon is a much heavier dog in all his parts than
the English setter; coarser in skull, thicker in shoulders and
usually carrying lots of useless lumber. As a consequence he lacks
the speed of his English brethren, and for this reason he is not a
desirable field trial candidate, but as a steady, reliable dog, with
more than average bird finding ability, he will always have a number
of admirers."
The Irish setter is another interesting one of the setter family. He
is not as popular in America as the others, though a handsome and
capable performer. His color is red, with white on chest, throat or
toes, or a small star on the forehead.
The manner of judging pedigreed field dogs has been reduced to an
almost exact science. After all, however, all this is not for the
casual hunter and many an embryo sportsman tramps the fields after
capable, though not so high-toned dogs, and enjoys it all more than
the nervous owner watching his dog in the field trial.
SPANIELS.
Spaniels are not utilized to any extent as hunting dogs in this
country, although they are sometimes crossed to good advantage with
other hunting dogs. About the water, the water spaniel is well
adapted. For instance some spaniel blood in a mink dog is well worth
considering.
All of the spaniels, readily develop into retrievers, and this is
their principal use at present, although they can be taught to hunt
with considerable effect and judgment, where too much is not expected
of them. They are lively, happy little workers, and on grouse in
dense coverts, no dog possesses a better nose for the purpose. Their
size, too, is against them for most practical purposes.
CHAPTER XXIII.
TERRIERS--AIREDALES.
Practical hunters have no interest in the numerous Terrier family,
save perhaps two types.
We find those who urge the use of the terrier for some purposes. For
instance, a Canadian brother has the following to say as to the Fox
Terrier:
I like the hound, but give me a well trained fox terrier as his
companion, and I will get most every fox. They have no trouble to
hole in less than six hours, there is where the terrier shines and
puts in his work. He will enter the hole and that is the end of Mr.
Fox. Sometimes he will bring him out of the hole to kill him, but
more often he will kill him, then bring him out. There are times when
he kills one that he cannot get out, owing to a short bend or other
obstruction in the hole. No doubt there will be many of the readers
think this is a far-fetched claim, nevertheless it is true and many
in this section can vouch for this statement.
[Illustration: The Fox Terrier--Useful in Many Ways.]
The dozens of types of this interesting, though generally
impracticable terrier family we pass over, permitting us to give
wider attention to the one or two types that have earned recognition.
The ugly, little Irish terrier is sometimes used to good advantage
for crossing, where heedless, reckless pluck is sought. These dogs
are very game, yet remarkably good tempered with man. But they dearly
love a fight, and have earned their commonly used nick-name
"Dare-devils."
Thus lightly skipping over the whole family we come to a type that
has earned notice in the hunting world, and is rapidly growing in
popular favor.
[Illustration: Airedale.]
THE AIREDALE.
First we cite a bit of practical testimony on the matter, from a
gentleman who knows whereof he speaks:
I have found out that the pure Airedale terrier and the hound make
the very best dogs for coon, lynx, mink, etc. Get a good Airedale and
a good hound and you will have a pair of hounds hard to beat. The
airedale are great water dogs and very hard workers and easily
trained to hunt any kind of game. They are full of grit and they fear
nothing and are always ready to obey your command. I have hunted with
them and found this breed of dog away ahead of the water spaniel,
collie, etc. Once you own one you will never be without it.
"The Airedales were first imported into this country in 1897 or 1898,
from England, and as companion and guard dogs, as well as hunters and
retrievers have made wonderful strides, and are becoming more popular
as they become better known. In disposition and intelligence they are
unexcelled. They will guard their master's family night and day, but
on the other hand are affectionate and kind to children. They are
natural hunters of both large and small game, in which they need but
little training, and have been used and worked as hunters and
retrievers with much success, as they are easily taught and very
intelligent. In size, the standard calls for males 45 pounds, females
a little less. Color, black and badger gray with tan extremities.
We should name the Airedale as a promising bear dog. His grit,
courage, staying Quality and strength are all points of advantage in
a dog that is expected to try conclusions with the hard-swatting
bruin.
Also we frequently hear of noteworthy success of the Airedale in
hunting and dispatching coyotes, coons, badger and bay-lynx, any one
of which is capable of putting up a good fight. Also he is a hunter,
retriever, trailer of coon, 'possum, bear, wildcat, mink, coyote,
deer, lynx, fox or small game.
The tendency nowadays is to produce larger Airedales, which shall
retain the terrier qualities. The practical callings upon the breed's
usefulness seems to justify that he be bred over 50 pounds, rather
than between 45 and 50 pounds, which has in the past been the aim.
One writer says that it was in the valley of the Aire river that the
Otter hound was crossed with the Bull Terrier, that product was the
Scotch terrier, that with the Scotch collie, that with the Pointer,
and that with the Setter dog and then the standard having been
secured, the crossing was discontinued. In that dale of the Aire,
then, was the great breed of dogs first experimented upon, that made
the Airedale.
CHAPTER XXIV.
SCOTCH COLLIES. HOUSE AND WATCH DOGS.
The Scotch collie dog will make the best friend of all the dogs in
the canine race, writes a collie admirer. Of all useful animals God
gave to man what can excel the dog, at least with the stockmen; in
affection no other dog can compare with him, he is a dog that every
farmer needs. He has almost human intelligence, a pure bred collie
can always be depended upon in sunshine or adversity. He can do his
work in a manner that should put the average boy to shame. The pure
bred Scotch Collies are of a kind and affectionate disposition and
they become strongly attached to their master. There can be no friend
more honest and enduring than the noble, willing and obedient
thoroughbred Scotch Collie. As a devoted friend and faithful
companion he has no equal in the canine race, he will guard the
household and property day and night. The Scotch Collies are very
watchful and always on the alert, while their intelligence is really
marvelous.
[Illustration: Collie.]
At one year old they are able to perform full duty herding sheep,
cattle and other stock, attending them all day when necessary,
keeping them together and where they belong and driving off all
strange intruders. They learn to know their master's animals from
others in a very short time, and a well-trained dog will gather them
home and put each into its right stall. They have a dainty carriage
and line style, profuse silky hair of various colors.
Others incline to the conviction that practical purposes have been
lost sight of in breeding, and that appearances have been sought to
such an extent that the present day pure bred collies lack some of
the attributes of intelligence and hardihood that made the collie
famous. In view of this fact it is quite likely that for general
purposes and certainly for hunting purposes, a dash of alien blood is
advantageous.
The crossed collie, or the well-known shepherd dog, so common to the
farm, are very often used with success in all forms of night hunting.
There are some who go so far as to maintain that the shepherd or a
cross of shepherd and fox hound are ideal for coon, rabbit and
squirrel hunting.
The use of these dogs as sheep herders has deteriorated in this
country, although they are still bred for practical purposes with
marked success in parts of England.
HOW TO TRAIN A COLLIE.
The best way to make a start is to get a pure-bred puppy from a good
working strain. To gain the best results and secure the full worth of
a Collie as a stock dog, I would say, take him as a little puppy.
There are many reasons why we favor the little puppy to the dog
nearly or quite grown. Most collies are sensitive and suspicious and
of fine temperament and this characteristic often makes them appear
rather more cowardly than brave. A Collie that has been properly
cared for and considerably handled during his puppyhood up to
maturity should have plenty of courage. A puppy should never be
permitted to have a place of refuge where he can run away and hide on
hearing a slight noise or unusual disturbance of any kind, or at the
sight of a stranger.
If he is kept under conditions where he can see all that may be going
on, and in that way become familiar with active life, learning that
noises and strange persons do not harm him, he will develop plenty of
courage, without which there is but little hope of great usefulness.
First, teach him his name, and to come when you call him. Teach him
to mind but always by kind methods. Let him love and trust you,
gaining his affection by gentle treatment. He should be accustomed to
the collar and chain when young, though it is much better to keep him
in the yard than confined by a chain while he is growing. Teach him
one thing at a time--to lie down and remain in that position until
excused; to follow at your will, and stop at the word, to come in at
once at command, and to turn to the right or left.
All these lessons can be easily managed by use of a small cord and
always using the appropriate word with emphasis. He should always be
made to keep at your heels when out for a walk with you. In that way,
after telling him to go to heel whenever he tries to run away, he
will understand the word better when he goes with you to drive the
cattle for the first time.
Let him keep back of the stock with you, while you drive the cattle
to and from the field or pasture without undertaking to teach him,
for as he learns by observation, he must have the example made plain.
He will quickly show a desire to help and then you may take advantage
of this act, encouraging him to help you, and after he has been with
you a time or two, he will soon become a driver at the heel. Give him
plenty of practice, and when he becomes a good driver at the heel,
taking a positive interest in his work, he can then be easily taught
to turn the cattle to the right or left, to head them off, stop them
or go alone into the distant fields and bring the cattle to the
stable.
He should never be allowed to drive the cattle fast for if once
allowed to run them, he will become careless and develop a
disposition to worry them.
[Illustration: Shepherd Puppies.]
Do not weary him with over-commanding nor notice every little mistake
which unnoticed may not occur again. If you gain his affection and do
not forget to tell him that he has been a good dog when he has done
well for you, he will learn fast for he has a wonderful memory and
never forgets the things he has learned to do. Thus we are amply
repaid for the care and time used in making the lesson plain.
I might say a few words about feeding the puppy, as he should have
good food when young. The first few months he should be fed on bread
and milk, never giving him any meat at any time, and as he grows
older, give him the bread dry and the milk as a drink. A comfortable
sleeping place should also be given him. The best place is in the
house or stable and he should be kept in at night at all times of the
year.
You will find that a well looked after Collie is a valuable and
life-long friend and helper.
HOUSE AND WATCH DOGS.
The Great Dane, Mastiff, St. Bernard, Newfoundland, Poodle, Dalmatian
Chow-Chow, English and French Bulldog have their places and purposes,
but are entirely outside the province of hunting dogs. Most hunters
admire these noble beasts, but inasmuch as they have no practical
importance or use to the hunter, detailed description is omitted.
CHAPTER XXV.
A FARMER HUNTER--HIS VIEWS.
I am a farmer by trade and a raccoon hunter for sport, and nothing
but a fox hound for me, and the better his breeding is the better I
like it. I don't care how much noise he makes if he is fast. I like a
good tonguer. I only have four hounds at this writing. I have caught
27 'coon and 10 opossum. On the night of November 9th, some friends
of mine went out 'coon hunting with me. They had three 'coon dogs and
I had four, seven hounds in all. We went about two miles south of
where I live to where we sometimes hunt the 'coon. The first thing
when we got there the dogs struck a trail and treed on top of a hill
with an old coal entry just below it.
We got up to the tree all right and could hear one of the dogs
barking "treed" about one-half mile south, so I left the boys to
attend to that tree and I went to the lone hound. He was barking up a
large black oak in the corn field. I soon spied an eye up the tree
and shot him out and down came Mr. 'Coon. I looked up in the tree
again and saw two eyes. The little 20-gauge spoke again and down came
'coon No. 2. The other fellows did not have such good luck, as their
coon got into the coal entry.
We then started on and the dogs caught another trail and gave us some
music for about twenty minutes. When they barked treed we went over
to them and there were six of the dogs barking up a bushy oak and the
lone dog was barking about eighty rods west of there. One of the boys
started up the tree and got only part way up when out jumps Mr.
'Coon. The dogs all went for him and out comes another 'coon and into
the corn field he went just about at the top of his speed, and I
guess he had no slow orders either by the way he was going the last
time I saw him. We got a couple of the dogs after the runaway 'coon
but he made a hole, so we then went to the lone dog and he had one
up. We got that and started west. We had not gone far when the dogs
struck another trail and they circled to the northwest of us, came
around west and south and turned east. Just across the hollow from us
was a large tree that Mr. 'Coon was trying to make but he couldn't
get speed enough to make it, so the dogs caught him as he got to the
bottom of the tree.
The lone dog was with them on that chase. We left our 'coon at a
farmer's and started on. The dogs struck another trail and that 'coon
got into a hole and he was safe, so we ate our lunch, rested a little
while and started on west. The dogs hit another trail and went south
about a mile and barked but not treed. We went to them and they had
run this 'coon into a shallow hole in the corn field. We tried to get
one of the dogs to pull him out but the 'coon got first hold every
time, so we got a stick and dug in a little ways. We could then see
Mr. 'Coon's eyes down in the hole. We sent three dogs in after him
but they came out without him.
I had an old speckled hound we called Teddy. He went in and when he
backed out he had company with him, and he seemed to think a great
deal of his company, for he was hanging right on to him just as
though he thought his company might leave him if he got a chance.
Ted was doing all he could, but he got him up so the other dogs could
see Mr. 'Coon's back and then he had plenty of help and the 'coon's
troubles were soon over.
We then started northwest. The dogs were working a trail and they
were puzzled on it; did not seem able to get away. There were a black
oak and hazel bush where we were then, so we sat down to let the dogs
work it out if they could. We were sitting within 10 feet of an oak
tree, the lone dog came up, circles the tree and barks up, then three
of the other dogs come up and start to bark. One of the boys says
there might be a 'coon up that tree but I doubt it. Well, I said,
when four good 'coon dogs bark up a tree at the same time, there is
liable to be something up there, so up went one of the boys and down
came Mr. 'Coon. We got him and the dogs were not long in starting
another trail.
They started south but it was a cold one, but they struck right after
Mr. 'Coon, and I guess they must have taken us a mile and a half on
that trail to another patch of timber, and we were about a half a
mile behind them when they barked treed. They had Mr. 'Coon up a tall
red oak. We shot him out and soon had another trail going. They took
this one south, and it was a warm one, right out into a corn field,
and they caught him on the ground. We could hear the fracas and went
to them as quick as possible, but we were not quick enough for they
had killed Mr. 'Coon and we met them coming back. We went to where we
thought they were when they caught the 'coon but we did not find the
right place for we did not find that coon.
The dogs soon had another trail going and gave us some fine music for
a little while and barked treed. We went to them and they had two
'coons up. We shot them out, and they soon had another one going
south. It was getting pretty frosty about that time and they worked
that trail about one hour south and west. We followed their music and
they barked treed. We shot him out. That makes eleven 'coon and one
killed in the field that we could not find. Now there may be some of
the trappers that will think I have added a few 'coon to this hunt,
but I have not. I have given you this 'coon hunt as near as it
happened as I can remember, but we had seven as good 'coon dogs as
you generally run across. I do not say seven of the best dogs ever
went into the woods or the best in the United States, but they were
'coon dogs and fast ones.
It seems that about every man that has a 'coon dog or dogs and they
tree a few 'coons, gets it into his head that nobody has a dog quite
as good as his. I have one pair of hounds from a Williams bitch and a
dog owned by Mr. Williams--Hodo is his name--but he is a pure Trigg
dog. His pedigree runs back over forty years. One of Haiden C.
Trigg's dogs, Trigg, is the most successful hound breeder in the
United States today. He started on the old original American fox
hound, these long eared fellows with a deep mellow voice, called by
some nigger chasers, as they used them in the south for that purpose,
and some dealers are selling the old American Fox Hound today for
American Blood Hounds. The only genuine blood hound we have is the
English. See what the Trigg dog is today, short ears or much shorter
than the dog Mr. Trigg started to improve on, with narrow muzzle, and
stands up well with good feet and built on speedy lines, a red fox
dog, and when he started on there were few of them that could hole a
red fox inside of eight hours, and the Trigg dog of today will hole a
red fox in a comparatively short time. Of course the fox they are
running and the kind of country they have to run in, have a great
deal to do with it. I run fox myself sometimes, or my hounds do
rather.
Now I see some of the hunters like a still trailer, but I want to
hear my dogs work and I want to know which way they are going, and
when they begin to get away I can follow and keep in hearing of my
dogs. I can tell by their baying just about what they are doing, if
the trail is cold or warm, and can tell which way they are going. I
wouldn't give a cent to hunt with dogs that couldn't make a little
music when on the trail.
I see some of the brothers think nothing but a still trailer catches
his 'coon on the ground. If you have fast trailers they will catch
'coon on the ground if they tongue every other jump. My dogs are all
good tonguers and I often have them catch 'coon on the ground and big
'coon, not little young 'coon any more than old ones. A young 'coon
will take to a tree quicker than an old one. I have got to see my
first well bred 'coon hound that will still trail. I have never seen
him yet, that is, a fox hound. I have tried shepherd and hound cross,
bull dog and hound cross, and beagle and fox hound cross, but give me
the pure bred fox hound every time for a 'coon dog, and I don't care
how long his pedigree is either. Let me tell you, you cannot get a
fox hound too fast for 'coon, the faster he is the better.
I read where a brother made the statement that you wanted a slow
hound for a 'coon dog. Well, he may want a slow one, yet I am sure I
do not. He goes on to say that a fast dog will run over the trail if
the 'coon makes a short or square turn, the fast hound will run by
and lose too much time finding the trail again. Let me tell you right
here, the fast hound can't help but run over, but he knows right
where he lost that trail. If he happens to circle the right way he
only has to make a half circle and he is off again. On the other
hand, if he circles the other way he makes a full circle and hits the
trail and is going just as fast as ever. If he has a good nose on him
he has not lost four seconds. A fast hound will make that turn in a
trail quicker every time than a slow one will. I have had both slow
and fast and have hunted 'coons about 23 years. Am now a man 38 years
old, and if I don't know what a hound is I sure never will.
I don't claim to know it all, for a man never gets too old to learn.
He could learn something every day if he lived a thousand years, or
for all time to come. There is no dog that will work a cold trail out
like a good hound. He will work out a trail and tree a 'coon when a
cur dog would pass right over the trail and pay no attention to it
whatever. It must be the brothers that like the still trailers that
never had a good 'coon hound, for I have never seen good 'coon dogs
but I have seen the best ones wrapped up in a fox hound hide.
I have a black and tan hound that will fight for me at any time. I
can't scuffle with any one outside of my own family for he will bite
them just as quick as he can get close enough to them. I had to give
him several hard whippings to make him quit rabbits. Now they don't
bother him any when he is looking for 'coon with me at night. His
father was the hardest dog to break off of rabbits that I ever broke,
but when he was three years old he would not notice a rabbit at night
but would trail them in the day time. He turned out to be a very
valuable hound. He would retrieve as good as a retriever on land or
in water, would catch any hog that I told him to catch and hold it
until I told him to let it go. I could point out any chicken I wanted
him to catch and he would get it for me and would not hurt the
chicken any.
Some people think a hound don't know anything but trail, but a good
hound is a very smart dog and a poor hound is about as worthless a
dog as you can find. Take the hound as a breed and I must say they
are a noble breed. The fox hound requires, I think, more exercise
than any other breed of dogs. I have a 25 gallon caldron. I put most
any kind of meat that I can get, beef, horse flesh, 'coon, when there
is one that is pretty badly bruised up, pork or any kind of meat that
is not decomposed, and put it into this caldron. Of course, I put
water in first then put in my meat and boil until it will all stir
off the bone. I then take all the bones out and stir in corn meal
until I have enough so that when the meal is done it will be a very
stiff mush. When it is done and cooled off you can take it out in
chunks. Use no salt, if any, very little, as a very little salt will
physic a dog.
I sometimes bake corn bread for the dogs for a change, which makes a
good food for them but not so strong a food as the other. I think a
hound will do more running and keep in better order on that mush with
meat than any food you can give them. Of course, if a person has but
one dog, he can generally get enough from the house scraps from the
table, but when you have a dozen or so you will have to get your dog
food elsewhere. In warm weather this mush will sour in a few hours,
but in cold weather it will keep sweet. I feed my dogs once a day
when they are idle, but when I am hunting them I feed them twice a
day. Feed each dog by himself.
Now as to their sleeping places, if you can let your dogs run loose,
and they will find warm places to sleep, with plenty of bedding in
the barn or other out buildings where the ventilation is good, but no
drafts of air to blow on them, that is the best place for them. I
keep part of my dogs tied up, as they would be off hunting if I let
them run loose. For those I use on the chain I use a 20-foot chain.
Build a good, warm dog house with a shingle roof, an individual house
for one dog. Cut a hole that he can get thru easily and then tack
some burlap just above the hole and let it hang down over the hole.
When it is cold weather I leave it down, but when it is pleasant I
fasten it up so that it leaves the hole open. The air can get thru
the burlap but it breaks the wind off of the dog and keeps the snow
from blowing in on his nest, or rain if it is raining. He can go out
and in when the burlap is down.
Another easy way to make a good place for a dog is cut a hole in the
side of a building that has a good roof, and put a box large enough
so that it will give your dog plenty of room right tight up against
the inside of the building where you cut the holes thru. Knock one
side of your box out and put it to the hole on inside of building.
Put your burlap on the outside at the hole as before described, and
you have a fine place for your dog. Make the hole just large enough
so he can get thru it easily, and cut it high enough so that when he
lays down in the box, the bottom of the hole will be above the dog.
Give your dog good, clean bedding at least once a week. Twice a week
is not too often. Use some disinfectant about two or three times a
month inside of dog house. The best cure for mange that I have ever
used, or for sores to heal them is black gun powder, powdered sulphur
and lard, mixed and well rubbed in. It is a sure cure for mange. It
will soon kill the germs, if properly applied.
I notice where a brother, in telling how to break a young dog to tree
'Coon said, to let the 'coon chew the dog for a while, help the
'coon, let him eat the dog for about 20 minutes and the dog would go
to hunting them to get revenge, or something to that effect. Now it
is my opinion that the dog would not want any more revenge as he
would get a plenty right there, and the chances are that he would
ever after be afraid of a 'coon, if he were a pup and got that kind
of treatment. Help your dog kill a 'coon whenever you can, if you can
do it without danger to the dog. I never let my dogs kill a 'coon
when it can be avoided. If I can find the 'coon with my light in the
tree I shoot him out, and then sometimes he has plenty of fight in
him when he comes down. Other times he is dead when he hits the
ground.
Any one of my dogs will kill a 'coon if necessary, but they don't get
the chance very often. There has been a few times that I let them
kill the 'coon, when I could have killed him myself, when there were
some of the boys with me that wanted to see them kill the 'coon, but
it is tiresome work on a dog to kill a 'coon, harder a great deal
than treeing one. My dogs will not stay at a hole unless the 'coon is
very close to the top of the ground, as where I hunt there are a
great many old coal entries and it would be a nuisance to have them
bark at such places as you could not get them out, so I never
encourage them to stay at a hole when they run one in.
I have seen some discussion about the size of 'coons. The largest
'coon I ever caught weighed 30 pounds. He measured from the tip of
his tail to the end of his nose, 4 feet and 4 inches. I caught
another one last winter that weighed 25 pounds and measured four feet
and 2 inches from his nose to the end of his tail.
I catch a good many that weigh over 20 pounds. Another thing I want
to tell you is this, in over 20 years of 'coon hunting I have never
cut a tree down to get a 'coon. There is too much of that kind of
work done. Where are all of the 'coons going to stay when you get all
of the den trees cut down? I want to ask you where is the land owner
that wants 'coon hunters cutting his timber down? Think of cutting a
fine, large tree down because it has a hole in it with a 'coon
inside. If I get a 'coon in such a tree and can't climb it, I just
call the dogs away from the tree and let him go until some other
time. I make it my business to go that way again some night, and the
chances are I get that same 'coon in such a tree and can't climb it,
I just tree a head of Mr. 'Coon if I can, and he goes up some tree
that I can get him out of when he sees he is cut off from his den
tree, and the tree is left for the next 'coon that comes along. So,
brothers, please cut the tree cutting out, as it is for your own good
to let those kind of trees stand if you want to hunt 'coon. When you
go around thru the timber destroying it, some one is going to call a
halt on YOU, and on the other hand it is not at all necessary to cut
the timber to get the 'coon, and the tree is undoubtedly worth more
to the man that own the land than the 'coon is to you.
Of course, if the owner of the tree gives you permission to cut the
tree, that clears you on that score, but after the tree is down, you
will never find another 'coon in that tree.
CHAPTER XXVI.
DESCRIPTIVE TABLE OF TECHNICAL TERMS AS APPLIED TO THE DOG.
The following table of definitions are used descriptive of the parts
of the dog's anatomy, and are used and understood generally by
professionals:
[Illustration: (The numbers refer to the picture.)]
Apple-headed.--Skull round instead of flat on top.
1. ARM.
Blaze.--A white mark up the face.
Brush.--The tail of a Collie, or any bushy tail.
2. BRISKET.--The part of the body between the chest and the neck.
Front part of chest.
Butterfly-nose.--A spotted nose.
Button-ear.--An ear which falls over in front, concealing the
inside, as in Fox-Terriers.
Broken-up Face.--Refers more particularly to the face of the
Bulldog or Toy Spaniel, and comprises the receding nose, or lay-back,
deep stop, and wrinkle.
Burr.--The inside of the ears.
Breeching.--The tan-colored hairs on the back of the thighs of a
Black-and-tan Terrier.
Beefy.--Big, beefy hind-quarters.
Cat-foot.--A short, round foot, with the knuckles high and well
developed; like a cat's, short, round and compact.
3. CHEST.--The chest of a dog must not be confounded with the
brisket; the breast or chest extends between the fore-legs from the
brisket to the belly.
Cheeky.--When the cheek bumps are strongly defined; thick in
cheek.
Chaps or Chops.--The pendulous lips of the Bulldog; the foreface
of a Bulldog.
Cobby.--Well ribbed up; short and compact.
Cloddy or Cobby.--Thick-set, short-coupled and low in stature.
Couplings.--The length or space between the tops of the
shoulder-blades and tops of the hip-joints, or buckle-bones. A dog is
accordingly spoken of as long or short "in the couplings."
Cow-hocked.--The hocks turning inward; hocks that turn in, like
those of a cow.
Cushion.--Fulness in the top lips.
Crook-tail.--The crooked tail of a Bulldog.
Crank-tail.--Same as above.
Culotte.--The feather on the thighs, as in the Schipperke and
Pomeranian.
Character.--The combination of points contributing to the whole
make-up and giving to a dog that which is desired in his particular
variety.
Corky.--Compact and active looking; springy and lively in action.
Dew-claws.--The extra claws found occasionally on the legs of all
breeds, but especially of the St. Bernard; the superfluous claws
inside the hind-leg just above the foot.
Dewlap.--Pendulous skin under the throat as in case of
Blood-hound.
Dish-faced.--This term describes a dog whose nasal bone is higher
at the nose than at the stop--a feature not infrequently seen in
pointers.
Dudley-nose.--A flesh-colored nose.
Domed Skull.--Round skull.
Deep in Brisket.--Deep in chest; deep from withers to point where
chest and brisket meet.
4. ELBOW.--The joint at the top of the forearm.
Elbows Out or "Out at Elbows."--This term defines itself.
Bulldogs and Dachshunde are desirable with elbows so shaped, but it
may occur as a fault through weakness.
Expression.--The expression of a dog is largely but not wholly
determined by the size, angular position, and degree of prominence of
the eye. For instance in a St. Bernard the eye is small, somewhat
sunken, showing a little haw. This gives a dignified and rather
benevolent expression. "Collie expression" depends largely on the
angle at which eyes are set to each other.
Feather.--The fringe of hair on the back of legs of some breeds,
notably Setters, Spaniels, and Sheep-dogs. The feathering on legs, as
in the Setter and Spaniel.
Flag.--The tail of a Setter.
Flews.--The chops, or overhanging lips of the upper jaw. The term
is chiefly applied to hounds or other deep-mouthed dogs. The lips.
5. FOREARM.--This makes the principal length of the fore-leg and
extends from elbow to pastern.
Frill.--The long hair on the brisket of some dogs, and especially
of the Collie. The profuse hair under the neck.
Frog-face or Down-face.--Nose not receding.
Flat-sided.--Flat in ribs; opposite of well-ribbed up.
Grizzle.--A bluish-gray color.
Hare-foot.--Foot like that of a hare, long and narrow.
Haw.--The red inside eyelid, usually hidden, but visible in
Bloodhounds and St. Bernards; the red membrane inside the lower
eyelid.
6. HOCKS.--The lower joint of hind-leg.
Height.--The height of a dog is measured at the shoulder, bending
the head gently down. The proper method is to place the dog on level
ground close by a wall, and to lay a flat rule across his shoulders
so as to touch the wall; then measure to the point touched by the
rule.
7. HUCKLE-BONES.--Tops of the hip-joints. The space between these
and the tops of the shoulders is called the couplings.
Harlequin.--Pied, mottled, or patchy in color.
8. KNEE.--The joint attaching the fore-pasterns and the forearm.
Kink-tail.--A tail with a single break or kink in it.
Leather.--The ears i. e., the loose visible part of them.
Layback.--Receding nose.
Loins.--That part of the anatomy of the dog between the last rib
and hindquarters.
Long in Flank.--Long in back and loins.
Lumber.--Superfluous flesh.
Mask.--The dark muzzle of a Mastiff or Pug.
Mane.--The profuse hair on top of neck.
Merle.--A bluish-gray color splashed with black.
Monkey-faced.--See Dish-faced.
9. NASAL BONE.
Occiput.--The prominent bone at the back or top of the skull;
particularly prominent in Bloodhounds; the bony bump on the top of
the head.
Overshot.--The upper teeth projecting over the lower. This fault
in excess makes a dog pig-jawed. The top jaw protruding beyond the
lower jaw.
Out at Shoulders.--Shoulders set on outside, as in the Bulldog.
Out at Elbows.--Elbows turning out.
10. PASTERN.--The lowest section of the leg, below the knee or hock
respectively, usually only applied to those joints on front legs.
Pig-jawed.--The upper jaw protruding over the lower, so that the
upper incisor teeth are in advance of the lower, an exaggeration of
an over-shot jaw.
Pily.--A peculiar quality of coat found on some dogs, which show
on examination a short woolly jacket next the skin, out of which
springs the longer visible coat. This short woolly coat is "pily."
When an ordinary coat is described as pily, it means that it is soft
and woolly, instead of hard.
Prick Ear,--(See Tulip ear). An erect ear; not turned down or
folded.
Plume.--The tail of a Pomeranian.
Pad.--The under portion or sole of the foot.
Penciling.--The black marks or streaks divided by tan on the toes
of a Black-and-tan Terrier.
Rose-ear.--An ear of which the tip turns backward and downward,
so as to disclose the inside of the ear.
13. RUMP-BONE.
Ring-tail.--A tail curving round in circular fashion.
Roach Back or Arched Loins.--The arched or wheel formation of
loin, as in a Greyhound, Dachshunde, Dandie Dinmont Terrier, and
Bulldog.
Racy.--Slight in build and leggy, as in the Greyhound or Whippet.
Septum.--The division between the nostrils.
11. SHOULDERS.--Top of the shoulder-blades, the point at which the
height of a dog is measured.
Splay-foot.--A flat, awkward front foot, usually turned outward;
and the opposite of "Cat-foot."
Stern.--The tail.
12. STIFLE-JOINTS.--Stifles. The joints of hind-leg next above the
hocks.
Stop.--The indentation across the skull between the nose and the
eyes. This feature is strongly developed in Bulldogs, Pugs and
short-faced Spaniels, and considerably so in many other dogs. The
step or indentation between the forehead and nose.
Snipy.--Too pointed in muzzle.
Semi-prick Ear.--An erect ear of which the end falls over
forward.
Sickle-tail.--A tail forming a semicircle, like a sickle.
Short-coupled.--Short in back and loins.
Shelly.--Too narrow and light in body.
Second Thighs.--The muscular development between stifle-joint and
hock.
Style.--Showy, spirited, or gay demeanor.
Tulip-ear.--An upright or prick ear.
Topknot.--The hair on top of the head, as in the Irish Water
Spaniel, Dandie Dinmont, and Bedlington Terrier.
Throatiness.--Overmuch loose skin or flesh under throat.
Twist.--The curled tail of a Pug.
Trace.--The dark mark down the back of a Pug.
Tucked-up.--Tucked-up loin, as in the Greyhound.
Tricolor.--Black, tan and white.
Thumb Marks.--The round, black spots on the forelegs of a
Black-and-tan Terrier.
Timber.--Bone.
Undershot.--The lower incisor teeth, projecting beyond the upper,
as in Bulldogs. The under jaw protruding beyond the upper jaw.
Upright Shoulders.--Shoulders that are set in an upright, instead
of an oblique position; not laid back.
Vent.--The tan colored hair below root of tail.
Varmint Expression.--As in the eye of the Fox Terrier, which is
free from Haw, is not Sunken, is round but rather small than large,
and set horizontally, not obliquely, giving a keen, rather "cussed"
look.
Wall-eye.--A blue mottled eye.
Wrinkle.--Loose-folding skin over the skull.
Wheaten.--Pale yellowish color.
Withers.--Same as 11.
END OF HUNTING DOGS