TRAINING--RANDOM SUGGESTIONS FROM MANY SOURCES.
Summing up we find much pointed and valuable information relating to
the training of dogs omitted thru lack of space. From this we present
a chapter of "nuggets" in paragraph form, which will no doubt prove
interesting and beneficial to those interested in training hunting
dogs. Here are a few things not to do:
Don't allow your dogs to run into every farmyard as you pass along
the road.
Don't allow them to be used with which to run stock.
Don't let them get into the habit of running other dogs.
Don't let them run house-cats.
Don't teach him to be called by shooting.
Don't, when out hunting, keep urging him all the time.
Don't let every one have him to hunt with or he will soon be
everybody's dog.
Don't allow them to come into the house and get into every pan and
kettle, if your wife is good-natured.
Don't correct him by pulling his ears, for a fox dog needs his
hearing.
Don't feed but twice a day, and don't stint him on his feed before
starting on a race.
Don't allow him to run loose when you are not using him.
* * *
Did you ever try using a sheep bell on a still trailer on windy,
stormy nights? It's a such bells on sheep and disregard them until
the dog but 'coon usually become accustomed to sheep bells on sheep
and disregards them until the dog gets too close for them to escape.
Then, where not accustomed to the bell, their curiosity overcomes
their fear. The best pair of 'coon dogs I ever owned was Sport, a fox
hound and collie, half and half, a slow semi-mute trailer, and Simon,
a full blood fox terrier, a fast mute trailer. I used a bell on
Sport. This and his occasional barks on the trail kept the attention
of the 'coon while Simon cut across lots and invariably took him
unawares.
I have learned at considerable expense that the best at most any
price is the cheapest. If you want a good, cheap 'coon dog, get a
half pup collie and half fox hound. Never give him a taste of nor let
him see a rabbit, teach him a few tricks (to make him pay for his
meals), such as jumping over a stick, then a pole, then a fence. This
is to teach him to obey every word.
Never scold or whip him, gain his confidence, teach him to speak for
bits of meat so when the time comes to hunt 'coon you can get him to
bark up; get him to catch and carry and he will often catch an
opossum or maybe a mink or 'coon and kill it when away from you, and
if you teach him to bring everything (rats, woodchucks) home to you,
he will do the same in the woods after night. Never let him get
whipped by another dog or woodchuck, 'coon or even a big rat. Always
help him kill or whip everything he jumps on to or that jumps on to
him. A defeat will discourage him.
When your young dog is ready for a night hunt in the woods or
cornfield, choose the best and most favorable night for the first
trip. Feed no meat nor milk for 24 hours previous to the first or any
subsequent trip, for that matter, for the best dogs, full of meat or
milk, cannot do good work on the most favorable night. Feed him a
good dinner of vegetables, but no supper until you return from the
hunt, then give him anything. Choose a dark and cloudy night, the
darker the better, not too still, as usually on very still nights the
atmosphere is heavy and smoke settles to the earth, so likewise does
the scent of the 'coon trail, and many a fine dog has been condemned
for failing to locate his 'coon when started under such a condition
as this.
* * *
Do not return home and leave your hounds in the woods, rather walk a
mile or two to catch them and they will be in better shape to hunt
the next day than if you had allowed them to run all night.
* * *
I notice so many of the boys in telling of their 'coon hunting say
when Old Jack or Trailer, or whatever his name might be, strikes a
trail they follow him as fast as they can run until out of wind, then
as soon as he barks treed, they go to him on the double quick, over
logs, brush, barb wire fences, thru brier patches, swamps and so on.
Now, this may be all right, I am not condemning any one else's method
of hunting, but just want to exchange ideas. When my dog strikes a
trail or I have reason to think there is anything doing, I just wait
right where I am until they tree or come back to me. If they bark
treed, I just take my time and if I know of a way around that will
save going thru some thicket or up some very steep hill, I just go
around and save those hardships. And another thing I never do is
whoop and hallo at my dogs when they are working. I think that has
spoiled many a good dog, and never run to a dog as soon as he barks
up, but give him time to think it over and circle the tree a few
times; then, when he settles down again you can go to him and depend
upon the 'coon being there.
PART II.
BREEDING AND CARE OF DOGS.
[Illustration: Some Ideals.]
CHAPTER XI.
SELECTING THE DOG.
Different hunters have different ideas as to the style of dog best
suited to their purposes. We can only approach the subject, by giving
views of experienced breeders, and the reader may choose as he is
inclined.
From a Canadian Hunter comes the following:
This question of the right kind of dogs to select is a matter on
which many sportsmen differ in opinion. Some prefer the small, some
the medium and others the large hound. For me I like a hound to be
from 24 to 27 inches high at the shoulder and well put together, with
a lot of bones, straight front legs with strong and compact feet,
"but not too large" with good strong nails well set in, the body to
be long and not short of flank with a wide chest and a moderate deep
chest and with a strong broad back, hind legs with the right kind of
bend, that is neither straight or too much curved in, with well
furnished thighs.
Dogs with straight hind legs cannot run and jump over logs and fences
with the same ease as those having a marked bend. These dogs can
buckle and unbuckle with more quickness and power, such as is
required in the gallop than dogs having a round barrel shaped chest,
with both the front and hind legs straight. Dogs having a nearly
round chest cannot stand any length of hard running, such as those
having a narrow chest because a dog with a moderate deep and narrow
chest has better wind as he is able to alter the cubic contents of
his chest more rapidly and thus inhale and expire a larger volume of
air. Therefore, a dog with a deep or flat chest will always have a
greater speed than one with a round one. This is a well known fact in
all animals remarkable for their speed, such as deer, wolf and
greyhound.
I like dogs with good muscular thighs with a fine long tapering and
graceful wavering stern, ears to be well set and not too long and not
thick and slabby, neck to be long and well set between the shoulders,
the head and muzzle, this is only a matter of taste. Those I prefer
are those having a long and narrow forehead and a fairly square
muzzle, ears from 7 to 9 inches long, lips loose but not hanging low,
throat loose and roomy in the skin and a good coat of hair so they
can stand cold and water, and with a good loud tongue and keen nose.
The color has nothing to do, the main point is the staying quality,
the speed, scent and endurance; the intelligence and the particular
style of ranging or beating the ground for trail as well as to run it
once found, with great speed.
Some say a fine looking hound should be a good hunter. Well, any
hunter of experience in the handling of hounds is fully aware that it
is not always the dog which carries the prizes at the shows that is
the best dog in the field. The same thing exists with the horse. Some
people claim that it all depends on the breeding, others on the
training. The fact is that both are required as well as the right
shape the dog should have to be able to stand hard work day after
day.
* * *
The most essential thing to the value and working capabilities of fox
hounds is purity of blood, declares another. Too much care,
therefore, cannot be taken in selecting and breeding fox hounds.
Hounds for running the red fox should be selected from the best
possible blood that can be obtained. I like a hound with a long clear
voice--one that can be heard at least two miles away on an ordinary
calm day--and one that gives tongue freely when running and trailing
but not one that gives tongue when he has run over the trail and lost
scent.
* * *
In selecting a night hunting dog I prefer one that is three-quarters
or at least one-half fox hound. The reason is, the fox hound has a
good nose, also a good voice and speed. While I do not condemn a dog
that is bred in any other way, I prefer one bred as I have stated for
the reasons given above.
Some prefer a dog that is part beagle, but if any reader of this book
has ever tried to train a dog with good beagle blood in his veins to
hunt coon, he has been up against the real thing. The trouble is, the
beagle has it bred right in him to run rabbits, and blood will tell.
The only point in favor of the beagle is his nose. With the exception
of the bird dog the beagle has the finest scent of the whole dog
family. I know this to be true by observation. A fox gives off more
scent than a rabbit, so does a coon and all the other animals.
During the "nesting season" birds give scarcely any. This is a wise
provision of Nature to protect them from their enemies during this
important period.
One day I saw a fine English setter almost step on a grouse that was
sitting on her nest. He never scented her until she went whirling out
the ridge right in front of his nose. That dog's actions told more
plainly than words could have done, how deeply he regretted the
incident. I have also seen a beagle run a rabbit after a heavy rain,
the rabbit, to my knowledge, having run before the rain fell.
* * *
Many writers say that a dog's pedigree and his being registered, does
not amount to the paper it is written on. Now I do not wish to
criticize any of my brother sportsmen, but I think it is the only way
to know if one's dog is well bred, and to have a well bred dog means
much less trouble in training him. Do not get discouraged if your dog
does not train as easily as he should, and always remember that much
depends upon you. Stay with your dog if you want him to be a good
sticker. Many a dog has been spoiled by leaving him to run for
nothing.
In selecting a dog to hunt all kinds of game, get a good bred hound.
I have no use for mongrels or curs. They are dear at any price. Get a
thick, hard, round-footed, long ears coming out of head low down,
well developed chest, shortish tail, large at root or next to body,
long from hip to gamble joint, with broad strong back, wide nostrils
and long pendant lip. Now this is my idea of a good all around
hunting dog. I don't expect you to find all of these qualifications
in any one dog.
* * *
Have decided that for my use, a full blooded hound. That is a good,
fast and reliable trailer, one that will stay with the trail, cold or
hot, and never think of giving up until asked to. One that will bark
treed on a cold trail just the same as if he had run him up a sight
chase. One that should he in cold trailing run across a hot trail and
tree, will after catching go and take up cold trail again and tree.
* * *
When it comes to large hounds for coon, fox, etc., a cross of the
right kind of American fox hounds and the right kind of blood hounds
fills the bill to perfection. The blood hound has the keenest scent
of any dog living. The American fox hound has the speed. If a man has
a combination of the two he is starting on the right trail. I prefer
a fox hound bitch bred to bloodhound dog. How many ever saw a
thoroughbred bloodhound? They are a heavy built hound, medium size
heavy head, long ears, square deep muzzle, with heavy rolls of
wrinkles on head just over the eyes, which gives him a surly look. I
have seen what were called and sold for bloodhounds to a sheriff to
trail man. They would trail fairly well, but they came a long ways
from being thoroughbred bloodhounds. Any hound trained when young can
be taught to trail man or beast.
Hunters differ as to the kind of dog to use for coon hunting. The
best coon dog I ever had (and I've had a good many) was a half Scotch
terrier and I don't know what the other half was. He was black and
white spotted with curly hair and weighed but thirty-two pounds.
Some hunters prefer the shepherd dog and again some would hunt with
nothing else but a hound. I don't know as it makes much difference
what kind of a dog one uses, just so it is one of the hunting kind, a
good trailer and thoroughly well trained. Of course, not every dog,
even of the hunting kind, will make a good coon dog; about the only
way to tell is to try.
* * *
As to picking a pup for a coon hound, it is very hard to do, but I
want a full bloodhound, one that tongues on trail and a free barker
at tree. I want the old style hound, as the modern fox hounds are too
nervous for good coon hounds, although you may get one once in a
while that will work a cold trail very well.
A cross between the old style, long eared hound and the fast trailing
hound with large, heavy shoulders, deep chest, a large fore leg,
large broad head, long ears, rather short coupled back, slightly
roached back, with a good square nose, rather large neck, set well
down in the shoulders. While this is my kind of hound for coon, do
not understand me to say that I want an extra slow trailer, for I do
not, but I want him to be steady, and when he has a trail he can work
it fast. This is my kind of a dog for coon, but he would not be in it
with an up to date fox hound on a fox chase, but running fox and coon
are different, and I want a different kind of a hound.
* * *
We have made a success in raising bear hounds, and find the only way
to get a good pup with the hunting habit, is to have it bred in them
first, says a California Brother. One has to have good parent hounds,
and while the mother dog is carrying the pups she must be worked on
whatever you want your pups to run. For instance, we have a black and
tan long eared bitch, bred her to a good hound, one quarter stag.
Before she had these puppies we caught three bears with others,
letting her get in and fight hard.
These puppies when a month old would crawl on a bear hide rug, chew
and shake at it, and when three months old, would track, bark and
fight. Now they are five months old and know considerable about it.
We treed an old bear, and these pups kept right on and treed two
cubs, and barked up and stayed until we found them after we had the
old one skinned and cut up. They have the instinct in them, and are
beauties with just enough stag in them to have a good crop of
whiskers.
[Illustration: Embryo Trailers.]
CHAPTER XII.
CARE AND BREEDING.
As we must raise the dog before concerning ourselves with his
culture, let us begin with the pup.
I commence to care for the pups by giving the bitch plenty of
exercise before they are born. Then as soon as they are born, put
them in a clean, dry place, where they will be comfortable,--if in
winter, where cold winds cannot reach them; if in summer, in a cool
place out of the hot sun. Feed the bitch well on good food of
different varieties; do not chain her, but rather shut her up in a
park of something of the kind, where she can exercise but not get out
to run, for if she should run she gets hot and you may loose some if
not all of your puppies.
By the time the pups are three weeks old, you will need to commence
feeding some milk twice each day, gradually increasing the amount as
the bitch becomes dry, and when she weans them, feed three times a
day, until about six months old; after which I only feed twice a day.
In this connection we quote from an article in a current magazine,
the truth of the contentions being borne out to a greater or less
extent by our own observations:
After her puppies are about five weeks of age a bitch will begin to
vomit the contents of her stomach for the puppies. I have known many
breeders of experience argue that but few bitches do so. Over and
over again have I been able to convince persons who, having immediate
care of the bitch and her litter, deny that the bitch ever vomits to
her puppies, that they are wrong. Many bitches never vomit when the
attendant is about, and only appear to do so at night; hence the
belief that they do not do so at all. It is the natural manner in
which the bitch feeds her whelp with partially digested food, after
her milk supply ceases to suffice for their requirements. If the
bitch is of good constitution and in good health, the puppies
flourish remarkably on the diet thus provided, and in such cases my
experience leads me to believe that puppies left with their dams do
better than when separated from them and, strange to say, bitches who
are in the habit of picking up all sorts of apparently undesirable
odds and ends do not seem to do their puppies less well under these
circumstances than cleaner feeders do.
Many bitches eat the young soon as they come if not closely watched,
especially the first time. There should be an attendant at time of
whelping. Whelps must be removed to a basket of warm cloths and kept
away till all have come and then place to matron for nursing. There
is no danger of her devouring them thereafter.
To resume: This is what I feed pups: grind rye without bolting and
sometimes oats ground very fine; then run through a coarse sieve, and
bake into bread without soda or baking powder, or make into a thick
mush and feed it with plenty of milk if convenient. As they grow
older add cornmeal and scraps from the butcher shop to the feed, and
give them enough to keep them nice and sleek, but do not overfeed.
By the time they are three weeks old they will be running everywhere,
and let them have plenty of room to run and play. Change their beds
as often as needed, which is a good way to prevent fleas. Should
fleas get on them as they are sure to do, put a tablespoonful of oil
of tar in a quart of warm water, take a fine tooth comb, dip in tar
water, and comb them until the hair is thoroughly saturated;
repeating as often as needed.
For bedding, the best is leaves from the woods; straw will answer,
but I prefer the leaves to anything I have ever tried, but whatever
is used it should be changed often and kept dry. For the dog with a
damp place to sleep, will soon have the mange, and it is far easier
to keep a dog healthy than to cure him after he has become diseased.
In warm weather I use no bedding as it is only a harbor for vermin.
The best place by far, to keep your dogs, is in a park, where there
is shade in summer, with running water, and slope enough to the land,
to allow it to be well washed whenever it rains. Then provide dry,
comfortable quarters to sleep, and you have an ideal home for dogs.
In case you cannot have a place of this kind nor even a small park,
and must keep your dog chained, attach a good heavy wire to the dog
house and the other end to a tree, where your dog can get to a shade
if possible; then attach a chain to the wire so your dog can travel
along the wire; but be sure that he cannot get tangled up and have to
lay out some wet night.
Some are situated far better than others for taking care of dogs and
I am sorry to say there is an occasional sportsman (or at least he
owns a dog or two), who is inclined to let his dogs shift for
themselves. I pity the dog that is unfortunate enough to have such an
owner.
My experience is that too much meat is not good for the foxhound, and
if they get a mess of old stale meat just before you want to run
them, the chances are that they can't make the race. I have seen good
dogs that couldn't run an hour, simply because they were filled up
with old dead hog or horse. If you want to make a good race with your
dog, keep him tied two or three days before you intend to run him,
feed him corn bread (well baked) and sweet milk. If you run at night,
give your dog a good feed at noon and very little at night when you
start, and if your hound has the "stuff" in him he is good for all
night.
I think rotten meat will affect the smelling of a dog as well as heat
them up, so they can't make a good race. To let your dog run loose
until you are ready for a chase, where he can find slop and such
stuff to be filled up on, and have your friend meet you with his
hounds in fine shape and lead your hound all the time, well you know
how you would feel.
Some say you must have it bred in a hound to run. That is all true
enough, but a well bred hound with all grit can't make a good race if
he isn't in shape to do it.
The foregoing is borne out and added detail given in the following
contribution from New York State:
I find that fox hounds which I feed on old stinking pork or stinking
meat of any kind are quite stupid and very careless about hunting.
They cannot keep on the trail, neither do they wish to run fast or
continue running long. Old stinking pork seems to be the worst I
could feed to a fox hound, and corn bread and some milk on it seems
to be the best.
When my dogs are fed on cornbread and milk they display the most
activity, and can follow a fox or rabbit more accurately and
accordingly run faster. When I want to make my hound run slow I feed
him some meat, and the more it stinks the less he can smell anything
but the fumes of this in his stomach. I can easily tell by the smell
of my dog's breath whether he has eaten fresh mutton or rotten horse
recently, and I think any healthy person can easily.
Here are another hunter's views on this same subject:
In rearing hounds, to have them hardy and intelligent you must feed
them right and provide them with a lot of good fresh water as well as
to give them daily exercise. When I feed beef, I have a small axe
with which I chop all the bones into fine pieces. They also get
scraps from the table with some vegetables mixed with cooked rolled
oats. I feed the old ones once a day with raw meat and once with
porridge. I see that they get just enough to keep them always in good
running condition, that is neither fat nor thin. I like a dog with a
good rolling skin. I never take a skeleton dog in the woods as I have
often seen hunters going deer hunting with dogs which you could read
a newspaper through.
Now of what use are such animals as these? Some say that a thin dog
will run better than a fat one. Yes, if the fat one is hog fat; but a
dog with about one-half inch of hard fat on the ribs will out-do a
dozen of these starved dogs of which you can count the bones at one
hundred yards from them. No, a dog with just the skin and bones
cannot stand any work for the reason that he has no bottom.
Young pups should be fed at the very least three times daily, four
times is still better. Never give them more than what they can eat,
and in the meantime see that they just get enough so as to clean the
dish well at every meal and in no case should the pan containing the
food be left in the intervals with the puppies if they have not
cleaned it out as they will become disgusted with it and next time
refuse to feed. Keep everything clean and dry and always feed at the
same hour daily. It is much easier to rear a pair of pups than a
single one.
Before weaning the dew-claw should always be removed. These are of no
use but only serve to bother the dogs and hounds should always have
them cut off.
Worm medicine should always be given to all young dogs and kennels
should be lime washed at least three times a year and never allow
your dogs to sleep near the stove and then turn them out in the cold.
If you desire a lazy hound allow him to burn himself at the stove,
but if on the contrary you wish a lively dog, provide him with a good
dry kennel and if you keep several dogs see that each one has his own
stall. This has the advantage of preventing them from fighting and
from the risk of taking cold by lying out of the kennel.
When your dogs return from the hunt always examine their feet and
legs and if you find any sore spots attend to them at once. If the
dogs return wet to camp always allow them to dry near a stove before
turning them to their kennel which should be a good dry one.
If you desire your dogs to stand hard work day after day you must
look after them with as much care as a jockey attends to his horse.
The very moment you notice your dog is looking dull ascertain at once
what is the cause, and if you are of the opinion that it is a cold or
distemper, don't wait until you see his eyes and nose running, to
doctor him, but attend to him immediately.
[Illustration: A Versatile Ontario, Canada, Dog Family.]
CHAPTER XIII.
BREEDING.
The main and most important question in breeding race horses as well
as hounds is to get always the very best and to do this, one has to
be on the move and watch the hunting and staying quality as well as
the style of looking for trails, etc.; and a breeder should always be
ready to pay the price for a good sire or dam. And he should always
bear in mind that there is no more trouble or bother and that it does
not cost more to raise a pair of dogs from well known hunting stock
than from unknown stock but where it tells is when the dogs are of
age for training. It is here where the great difference exists and
where a sportsman is willing to look at the right side of the matter
finds his mistake and where he regrets not having paid a few dollars
more for the right stock.
Some say that if pedigreed dogs were trained they would beat the
other dogs. The question is to train them. Hounds which come from
untrained or from partly or badly trained stock will always be poor
hunters. They will never be the dogs that they would have been had
they come from highly trained stock, that is that their sire and dam
and grand sire and grand dam were all trained by persons who
thoroughly understood the way of breeding and rearing as well as the
age and proper way of training. A hound coming from such selected
stock will learn and pick up in a day what will take others months
and probably a whole season to learn. I never kept a hound which
after having shown him the game and also blooded him once or twice
would not at once start to hunt because I consider that the sooner a
sportsman will shoot such dogs the better.
There are plenty of fox dogs that are good coon dogs, and a great
many coon dogs will run a fox to a finish, but the fox and coon dogs
are two very different dogs. There is also a greater difference in
the opinions of hunters, in regard to the coon dog than in any other
dogs.
Some want the full blooded hound, and some a cross with a foxhound;
here they differ again as to what dog to cross with; others want no
hound blood at all, but a shepherd; one wants a collie and another
just a dog. Then here is a hunter who insists on a silent dog; and
the next one says the silent trailer doesn't camp with him.
Now as I am not looking for trouble, I will agree with all of you.
Where coons are plentiful and you are likely to strike a coon track
in every cornfield, the half hound or even a cur dog, will get coons;
but where they are scarce and you may tramp until near morning, and
then strike a trail five or six hours old, if you get that coon, you
will need a dog with a good nose and one that tongues on a trail. But
there is one point on which you will all agree--if your dog does not
stay at a tree and bark good and plenty, he isn't much of a coon dog.
Consequently in breeding for coon dogs, this is the most important
point. Get as many other coon points as you can, but be sure his
ancestors have been good tree dogs, as far back as you can trace
them.
The very reason that there are so many culls in this country, is
because many hunters think a dog is a dog, and that any dog with long
ears is a hound. Ears count for nothing but looks; bent legs, ditto;
the only way that you can perfect the breed, which in your
estimation, is the ideal, is by choosing the dogs of the best
particular kind which you prefer. For instance, how could a hunter
expect to produce a strain of dogs with good, loud voices, if he
chooses as his breeders the poorest squallers in the lot? Nature is
nature, and it is only by studying her laws that we are able to
produce our ideal of any kind; also, if he wants an intelligent dog,
he must pick out the one with the most desired good points, and then
he is on the fair way to success.
In short, in order to have a hound that will repay you for his
training, he must be bred right in every detail or the hunter is
doomed to disappointment. If the hunter does not own a first class
pair to breed from and cannot secure a good strain in his locality,
he should buy from a reliable dealer, one whom he knows has made a
success of breeding this class of dogs. It is also advisable to buy a
young pup as the chances of securing the best are alike to all, or
even though the parent dogs are No. 1 in every respect, there will be
some in the litter that will be weak in points before they have
reached the age of eight months, the breeder himself will have
difficulty in choosing any one as the best.
There is a standard for judging the so-called high class pedigree
show dogs but which does not cut much ice with a fox and coon hunter.
Regardless of color, the qualities most desirable in an all around
fox hound are: 1st, staying qualities and powers of endurance. 2d,
voice, feet and general make up.
[Illustration: One-half English Bloodhound Pups.]
Personally, I like a hound that stands from 20 to 24 inches at
shoulder, long in body, deep chested, heavy boned with a coat of
rather long hair, the feet should be round in shape with a good
covering of hair to protect the soles or pads. A foxhound should not
have a second claw on the hind leg for this shows a cross in his
breeding. A dog that has these claws will not stand much hard running
in crust for by rubbing against trees, etc., they will gradually
become sore and bleeding, and the hound although willing enough is
handicapped with a pair of sore legs. Some hunters cut these claws
off while young. In the pure strain of fox dogs this would be
unnecessary as they would not have them on.
The first cost of a young hound is nothing compared with the time and
trouble it takes to bring him to a hunting age. Therefore, it is
advisable to buy the best obtainable for even though the price be
high at first cost, the hunter will be better satisfied for his time
and money when the dog has fully developed for the chase. In making a
choice for breeding, select a pair that has been thoroughly tried and
are known to have no weak points, such as poor voice, quitters, back
trackers, etc. It is also advisable to hunt with the bitch as much as
possible up to the very time the pups are whelped. The pups will be
stronger and better in every way than if the mother had been housed
in all the time, and a hunter will find that a pup so bred will take
to hunting almost as soon as he can run.
Do not breed a pair of young dogs, rather select if possible, an old
dog for a young bitch for by breeding two young dogs their pups are
apt to be hot-headed, over-anxious and these qualities are not wanted
in a foxhound.
To be sure of a strain of dogs the breeder must know their ancestors
three generations back for it is surprising how far back a pup will
breed from, not only in color but in characteristics, habits, etc.
[Illustration: Fox Hounds.]
[Illustration: Some Young Hunters.]
CHAPTER XIV--BREEDING (Continued).
Crossing for Coon Dogs.
My experience has been that the crossing of an English pointer dog
and American fox hound slut for 'coon dogs, are the best I ever saw,
writes an Ohio night hunter of rare judgment and experience, and I
will illustrate by relating the accomplishments of a certain dog of
the breeding. I will say further that the sire of this dog I mention
was the most remarkable I ever heard of--a fine large pointer, and
often when hunting quails or pheasants in the woods he would bark up
and had done it many times before they found out the cause.
One day while hunting pheasants he began to bark up a hollow beech
stub, and when called, refused to leave his post, and his hair was
slightly raised, which excited the hunter's curiosity and they
procured an axe and felled the stub. To their surprise, two large
'coons came rolling out and were dispatched. This solved the problem,
and after that, he was the cause of many 'coons losing their life, as
he located them in the den and trees where they had not stepped a
foot on the ground. I for one can surely recommend this cross to make
good 'coon dogs.
* * *
A few points in regard to a stud dog for fox. Pick a dog with a deep
chest, good strong loin, long head and stands with his feet well
under him. About the feet--take the foot in your hand, press gently,
and if it feels firm and springy like a piece of rubber, that dog has
a good foot, which is very necessary in a fox dog, but if he has a
soft, mushy foot, let that dog alone, no matter how good he looks,
for he will not stand long chases, and the old adage that like begets
like, will surely show itself in this case.
* * *
There are a great many worthless dogs, but the dogs are not to blame.
I am writing on fox dogs, but it holds good on all dogs. There is
always a worthless bitch, and sometimes several of them to be had for
nothing, and some fellow who wants a dog but don't want to pay a fair
price says, "I'll get that bitch and breed her to that dog down at
Graysville. They say he's a crackerjack, and I'll get some good dogs
and they won't cost me anything either."
Well, when the time comes to breed it's five miles to Graysville, and
the roads are awful muddy, and he concluded to breed to Jim Jones'
dog just over the way, saying he ain't much of a dog, and a cousin to
the bitch, but his great-grandmother got more foxes than any dog over
in these parts, and some of the pups will breed back. He gets eight
or ten pups, which he gets perhaps $1.00 a piece for, and it costs
just as much to raise a poor one as a good one. The owners spend a
lot of time trying to make dogs of them and have nothing at last.
In a running dog these are the qualities I think are needed. First,
endurance, because no dog can make a race after a red fox without it.
Then speed, a good nose, lots of ambition, good sense and the more of
that the better; and will need to be able to hear well to enable him
to cut corners if he happens to get behind, as any dog is liable to
do.
After the pups are born, don't let the bitch run until they are
weaned, for it will hurt both mother and puppies. Should she get very
hot and then get to her pups you would likely lose some or perhaps
all of them.
Here we have still another favorite breed for 'coon hunting, advanced
by an old and tried hunter. Says he: My choice of a breed of coon dog
is a grade hound crossed on a bull or one-half hound, one-fourth rat
terrier and one-fourth Scotch collie or shepherd or fox hound and
beagle.
Says another: A hound to be a fine ranger does not require many years
of training if he comes from a sire and dam that were both good
rangers and which their own sire and dam and grand sire and grand dam
were all good and highly trained dogs. He is sure to hang from them
and any sportsman having dogs of that strain will enjoy the use of
his dog at once, but where it takes three or five seasons and
sometimes more to make a good dog, is when they come from exhibition
stock or from stock that have never been broken right. If a hound is
wrongly taught to hunt he will always be a crazy dog and will, if
bred, give poor hunters exactly like himself.
An Ohio Fox Hunter goes on record thus: In breeding hounds some seem
to expect great work on any line they wish to see the hound, not
stopping to think everything to its kind and everything to be perfect
must be true to his nature. The bloodhound is true to his nature with
reasonable opportunity. He is a man trailer, a large, strong dog,
built for strength and endurance but not for fleetness which all
breeders concede the 'coon dog should be built upon. Strong in my
opinion with strong jaws, good size and a good muzzle, a good scent
with as much speed and determination as you can inject into their
blood.
I am now speaking of coon dogs. They may be bred almost any way and
yet be good coon dogs but I find it is just as necessary to have them
bred from coon hunting stock as for any dog or animal to be trained
for any specific or especial purpose. It must be bred with that
object in view and as much of that blood and disposition injected
into the veins as is possible to get.
The fox hound is a special or specific type or breed of dog. He is
bred for it, built for it, trained for it and if a true type of
hound, is it. Not all well bred dogs are fox dogs nor are all well
bred horses fast. Only one in many. But in order to have grounds to
expect speed, we must have breeding, as the saying goes, "Blood will
tell." Some are daffy on pedigree, others must have everything
registered, others ask only for the swing and staying qualities of
their ancestors, etc.
All breeds of hounds have some worthless, yet some may be fairly good
along some particular line and very much at fault in others. Some
have speed but cannot be got to use it, will not get in with a pack
and run to a finish. Some will run with a slow pack all right but put
them in with a fast pack and they will have their gallop out in from
one to two hours. They seem to have all the courage necessary but not
the speed. Some will go after the first fox trail they ever smell of
and others you have to train to follow.
I think this difference largely between the dog that is allowed to
run at large and one raised in a corral. One is fearful of
everything, the other fearless and full of self-confidence.
Confidence is worth much in both dog and man. So many cannot run
unless they have their noses directly over the trail and have no
driving instinct. If they lose the trail, go back and get it and
bring it up to where they lost it before. So for several times,
perhaps, before getting away, the dog running all the time, Mr. Fox
sitting down waiting, resting. You never hear of such dogs catching
or holding a fox. They seem to be willing but lack the tact and fox
sense.
I would say to breeders there are only a few characteristics
necessary for good foxhounds and every breeder should see to this
with careful study and tests. First--Courage. Do not breed a dog on
either side that has not got it. It will crop out to make you ashamed
of your dog some time. Second--Speed. It is just as natural for the
lover of a chase to want to be ahead, as for the lover of the horse
race, but we cannot all be so; often we find it easy to beat our slow
packs in the neighborhood and how we swell up and think we can best
anybody until we get away from home and get that bubble pricked.
Other qualifications as to form and shape. A dog should be compact
enough to be strong. He should be just as long as he can be to gather
quickly. A dog too long turning on all kinds of ground is like a
horse with a very long stride trying to go fast on a short track. His
stride is too long for the lay of the ground. Another qualification
and not in the least,--is voice. The dog that has no voice holds not
the highest place in his owner's pride. A good hound, one prized by
his owner and loved by the lover of the chase must do three things at
once, run fast, carry the trail and tongue well. These requisitions
make a good fox dog and if his shape and symmetry is good, he is a
valued dog.
Breeders should look to it that these qualities are bred for at the
sacrifice of everything else. There may be places, especially in very
hilly country, that a small hound is best. In this section, give me a
good, medium large dog, say from 22 to 24 inches at shoulder and
built in proportion with from 16 to 18 inches earage. Color is a
matter of taste. I believe that our English cousins breed them so
straight that the spots and marks are stamped on all alike. I have
heard it said so much that a stranger could hardly see any difference
in a pack and when the American breeder gets to giving so much
attention to their breeding, then we will soon have a true type of
hound.
Then I will say courage, driving with courage goes largely, speed and
voice, good sound chest and body, good wide head and long muzzle,
good bone and heavy forearm, good long back, good sound feet, well
padded, with black upper mouth, a hazel eye, a strong loin and not
too much flank. Regardless of color you have my ideal fox hound.
CHAPTER XV.
PECULIARITIES OF DOGS AND PRACTICAL HINTS.
Never purchase a dog from an unknown party unless the said party can
supply good references and testimonials regarding the square dealing
and the merits of his strain of dogs. If a man cannot give you this,
wait until you find one who can.
Some people are inclined to believe that a big dog cannot compete
with a smaller one. Most of them have to come to this conclusion
because they have seen some big sloppy and lazy hound, but take a
big, well built, lively, fleet and nervous hound, and full of grit
and he will hold his own and more. It is just like trying to make a
pony cover the same ground as a roadster, declares a lover of hounds.
A pup of most any large breed of dogs will make a good watch dog if
properly brought up. If fondled and played with while young by
everybody that happened to come to the house, then the dog will be
playful and friendly with people always later on. If to be made cross
and shun strangers, the pup should be reared in a lot with high board
fence to prevent him seeing what goes on outside. The owner, in
disguise, or better still some other person, should now and then
pound against the fence, look over the top so the dog gets a glimpse
at supposed intruders; partly open the gate and peek in, let the dog
make a rush towards him but slam gate shut before quite coming up,
etc. Such practice will make any dog watchful and cross towards all
strangers, and will never make friends with any but his master. For
an imposing, powerful and the best of watch dogs get a Mastiff or a
Great Dane.
It is not wise to expect too much of a new dog. Some of them will
fret and worry after their friends and home for a long time, will
hardly eat or drink, and it takes the best of care and attention to
bring good results. Eventually they will become acquainted and regain
their old form, if properly encouraged.
I never pet my dogs while hunting except after killing game which in
my opinion is pretty good policy as a dog like a man likes to have
credit for what he had done. Remember also, though contrary to the
old fashioned theory that it is just as unreasonable to ask a dog to
hunt without food as it would be to hitch up a horse and drive him
all day without either hay or grain, there has been many a good dog
called a "quitter" simply because he was weak from the lack of food.
As for a quitter, in my opinion a vast majority of them have never
commenced, not because they had a "yellow streak," as most hunters
say, but because like the Irishman's pig, they have too many streaks
of lean. As your dog is a better friend to you than most people of
the J. Sneakum caliber, why not treat him right?
In some journals there is considerable criticism and complaints, and
sometimes one feels like steering shy of many advertisements of fox
hounds. One publication invites all persons to inform its editor
where any dog has been misrepresented and sold through its columns.
No doubt in many instances it may be the fault of the purchaser
handling a strange dog. I purchased a dog that followed at my heels
for several trips and would not leave me until one day he put his
nose in a fresh trail. The other dog was out of hearing when he went
out in a good race, tongueing in good shape, and was a No. 1 fox
hound.
When a sportsman wishes to purchase a strange hound if he desires to
get a good one he must pay the price and the way for him to not be
fooled is to deposit his money at the express office and then have
the dog sent on trial and if not satisfactory, he returns the dog and
pays the express charges one way. This is the only safe way to get a
good dog, as a man that will accept these conditions will most
certainly send you the right stuff at once and not a "cull", that he
has scraped somewhere for $5.00 and sells you from $15 to $30.
It's detrimental to allow a bird dog to roam and go self-hunting. Not
being restricted he gets in all sorts of mischief. Keeping at home is
the only remedy. To give ample exercise arrange a trolley in the yard
by driving two stakes into ground without projecting; fasten a strong
wire to top of posts and on this slip a ring to slide on; to this
snap the chain and the dog can run up and down the full length of
wire. Within a few days he will learn the extent of run and chase up
and down the full length for hours at a time, then be content and
restful.
By nature dogs are cleanly and will not soil their bed or kennel if
to be avoided. Being shut up in a small place may cause them to be
uncleanly and soil the floor, making it disagreeable, as by rolling
in play all the dogs will constantly present soiled appearance.
However, even in a small kennel this can be regulated as follows:
Thoroughly clean out the place and scrub; in one corner bore some
holes into floor and spread sawdust over this part only; litter the
rest of space with clean straw and besprinkle this with some strong
disinfectant. Turn in the dogs. At once one or more will go to
sawdust portion,--this done the ice is broken and henceforth all the
dogs will use this part only as retiring place, leaving the remainder
perfectly clean.
Teach your hound not to be afraid of water, and to circle the tree
and to keep an eye on the coon and to bark treed, but never allow him
to get whipped by any coon at first as this will discourage him. Not
only this, but the coon may blind him should he strike him in the
eye. It is better always to hold or tie the dog before shooting the
coon, and when he drops to make sure that he cannot fight much more
before allowing the dog near him.
CHAPTER XVI.
AILMENTS OF THE DOG.
Dogs as well as people sometimes fall ill. Proper care and sanitary
lodgings will reduce the danger, but sickness will occasionally
occur, no matter how great the precautions.
Dog owners should therefore acquaint themselves with the commoner
forms of ailment to which dogs are subject and thus be in a position
to quickly administer such relief as is possible, thereby frequently
stopping a sick spell promptly that might otherwise result seriously
if not fatally.
The dog is very similar to man in his ailments as well as in his
susceptibility to drugs. As a general thing medicine that is good for
a human being is good for a dog under similar circumstances. "While
no definite rule can be laid down" says an eminent authority, "it may
be said that a dose suitable for an adult person is correct for the
largest dogs, such as St. Bernards; for dogs from forty to fifty
pounds the dose should correspond with that given to a child twelve
to fourteen years of age, and so on down."
Few veterinarians make a study of the dog, and they rarely are of any
use when called. However, those who have made a special study may be
consulted with advantage and saving.
We have not the space here to go into an exhaustive recitation of dog
diseases, symptoms, treatment and remedies. If you are at a loss
concerning your dog, write to one of the Dog Doctors, whose
advertisements appear in sporting magazines, and he can no doubt
diagnose the case and forward the medicine you require at a minimum
cost. In nearly all cases he will forward you a free booklet
describing the prevalent diseases and his remedies applicable to
same.
The following from the pen of H. Clay Glover, V. S., will no doubt
give many readers some light on one of the common afflictions that
prove so troublesome.
INDIGESTION IN DOGS.
Eczema is a frequent symptom, and let me state right here that I find
more cases of eczematous eruptions arising from a disordered
condition of the digestion than any other cause. Doubtless many who
will read this will recognize the fact that at some time some certain
dog has had some obstinate skin trouble, all kinds of which are by
the layman diagnosed as "mange", and that, after trying various mange
cures to which the trouble has not yielded, the blood has been
treated with no better results.
To any one who have, or may have in the future, indigestion cases,
let me advise the following treatment, viz.: Feed rather sparingly
three times a day on raw or scraped beef, this being the most readily
accepted and most easily digested of all foods when the digestion is
disordered, allowing no other diet, and giving immediately after each
meal one of the digestive pills. Add to the drinking water lime water
in the proportion of one to thirty.
By following this treatment as laid down, many cases of eczema will
disappear. Some probably, may be accelerated by the use of a skin
lotion in conjunction. Eczema in these cases is merely a symptom
appearing in evidence of disordered digestion. Indigestion may be
considered as a mild form of gastritis, which if not corrected, will
be followed by true gastritis, the stomach then being in such
condition that nothing is retained, even water being returned
immediately after drinking. This will be accompanied by fever, colic,
emaciation and only too often followed by death.
DISTEMPER.
We quote further from Dr. Glover's booklet, some practical
information on another of the more common dog ailments:
The term distemper is particularly applied to animals of the brute
creation; to the dog when afflicted with that disease somewhat
resembling typhus fever in the human race. We have now become quite
familiar with the nature of the disease and the remedies indicated;
consequently the loss by death is comparatively small when proper
treatment and attention are employed. In early days, those dogs that
were fortunate enough to survive this disease did so merely through
strength of constitution and not from the assistance of any remedial
agent, as utter ignorance of the subject then prevailed. The disease
doubtless then appeared in a much milder form than that with which
our present highly bred animals are afflicted.
Owing to more or less inbreeding that has been indulged in to
intensify certain forms and characteristics in dogs of most all
breeds, constitution has to some extent been sacrificed. Animals bred
in this way are in consequence less able to resist or combat disease
than those with less pretentious claims to family distinction.
CAUSES--Bad sanitary conditions, crowded or poorly drained kennels,
exposure to dampness, insufficient or over feeding, improper diet,
lack of fresh air and exercise, all conduce to the development of
distemper. It is contagious, infectious, and will frequently appear
spontaneously without any apparent cause in certain localities,
assuming an epidemic form. Age is no exemption from distemper, though
it more frequently attacks young animals than adults. Very few dogs
pass through life without having it at some period.
SYMPTOMS--In early stages, dullness, loss of appetite, sneezing,
chills, fever, undue moisture of the nose, congestion of the eyes,
nausea, a gagging cough accompanied by the act of vomition, though
rarely anything is voided (if anything, it will be a little mucous),
thirst, a desire to lie in a warm place, and rapid emaciation. This
is quickly followed by mucopurulent discharge from the eyes and nose;
later, perhaps, ulceration of either eyes or eyelids. Labored
respiration, constipation or obstinate diarrhoea, usually the latter,
which frequently runs into inflammation of the bowels.
In some cases many of the above symptoms will be absent, the bowels
being the first parts attacked. The following, which sometimes, but
not necessarily, occur with distemper, I classify as complications,
viz.: Fits, Chorea, Paralysis, Pneumonia or Bronco-Pneumonia,
Jaundice, and Inflammation of the Bowels, and will require treatment
independent of any one remedy that may be given.
TREATMENT--The animal should be placed in warm, dry quarters, and
hygienic conditions strictly observed. With puppies, at the start
give vermifuge, as nearly all have worms which add greatly to the
irritation of stomach, bowels and nervous system.
The bedding should be changed daily and the apartment disinfected
twice a week.
Feed frequently on easily digested, nutritious diet, such as beef tea
or mutton broth, thickened with rice. Let all food be slightly cool,
and keep fresh cold water at all times within reach of the animal. If
constipation be present give warm water and glycerine enemas, and an
occasional dose of castor oil if necessary. Should the bowels become
too much relaxed with any tendency to inflammation, feed entirely
upon food, such as arrowroot, farina or corn starch with well boiled
milk, as even beef tea is somewhat of an irritation to the stomach
and bowels.
In the treatment of distemper, one great object is to keep up the
general strength, so in case of extreme debility a little whisky in
milk or milk punches may be allowed.
If your efforts are not successful and you are in danger of losing
one or more good dogs, write a specialist. It would require fifty
pages of this book to go into the subject fully.
RHEUMATISM.
Acute rheumatism in the dog is similar to that in the human body,
effecting the joints. Muscular rheumatism settles in the muscles. If
given early 5 to 15 grains, twice a day, of salicate of sodium is a
most excellent preventative measure. A severe case demands more
elaborate care.
RICKETS.
Those accustomed to dogs have seen cases of rickets. It is a
constitutional or inherited affliction, and attacks puppies most
frequently. Nothing can be done save kill the sufferer if the attack
is severe, or build up the health generally, toward outgrowing the
trouble, if mild.
These are only a few of the ailments the faithful dog is heir to; yet
in a general way, a healthy dog is no more subject to disease than a
healthy person, and in many cases the old family watch dog will pass
a long and useful life with no more serious trouble than he can
readily cope with, with the assistance of nature.
We add some practical advice from Mr. Amer Braley of Dade Co.,
Florida, as to what will cure canker in the ears of dogs, a prevalent
and aggravating trouble: Will say I have cured cases of it of long
standing by working boracic acid well into their ears, usually a few
applications does the work.
There is a disease that kills more dogs in Florida than all the other
causes put together. It is called sore mouth, black tongue, new
disease and other names. I lost some fine hounds of this disease,
usually dying from six to eight days from the time of showing
disease. Symptoms of it are generally languor, dullness about the
eyes, little or no appetite, sometimes feverish and a dryness about
the mouth and at other times slobbers hang down from the mouth.
They seem anxious to drink water but are unable to swallow it. Their
tongues seem to be somewhat paralyzed, they can hardly pick up
anything. They usually want to roam around where they will not be
molested. I will give a remedy that I have which has cured several
cases of this disease with the only ones I ever knew to survive it. I
will give it for it may be the means of saving the lives of some good
dogs.
"A gelatin coated pill or capsule of quinine containing five grains
twice a day for two days, then one each day for a week." Also swab
out their mouth with the following: "Chlorate potassium half ounce,
murvate tincture iron half ounce. Put into one pint of water and
shake well. Tie rag or cotton to stick, letting it protrude over the
end, and swab out the mouth two or three times a day."
You want to go right at once to giving the remedy for if the disease
runs 36 hours I don't think there is any cure for it. The size doses
mentioned here are for good-sized dogs as grown hounds. Smaller ones
and pups reduce accordingly.
There is another disease that dogs are sometimes taken with in this
country. Some say it is caused by ticks. It is called "staggers" as
the dog that is affected with it staggers as he walks. It seems as
though they can't manage their hind parts. Sometimes they break down
and have to drag their hind parts (sled fashion.)
A remedy that I have never known to fail yet for that is: Lard and
spirits of turpentine about equal parts mixed and bathe in well
across the kidneys and also across the back of head where it joins to
neck. Usually two or three applications makes a cure.
PART III.
DOG LORE.
CHAPTER XVII.
STILL TRAILERS VS. TONGUERS. MUSIC.
Perhaps no more mooted question enters in for so widely separated
opinion as the comparative superiority of the Still Trailing dog and
the Tonguers.
The still or mute trailer is the deer, rabbit or night dog which does
not give tongue on the trail. He keeps his silence, until his game is
treed or in sight and about to tree.
The tonguer gives forth a joyous and lusty cry as soon as he makes a
strike, and continues to do so until the chase terminates. When treed
he changes his bark, so that usually the hunter can distinguish
between the signals.
We shall withhold personal opinion as to the preferable style, and
present the arguments of a number of adherents on both sides of the
question, allowing the reader to come to his own conclusion.
A West Virginia 'coon expert says, in favor of the tonguer: I have
had several good 'coon dogs, both tonguers and silent trailers. This
is a hilly, brushy country, with lots of deep hollows. The best 'coon
dog I ever had was a three-fourths fox hound, one-fourth bull dog. He
was very fast with a good nose and a wide hunter. He never struck a
cold trail and went straight ahead all the time. He has started a
'coon half a mile away from me and would go right out of hearing of
me, and I would follow the way I would judge the 'coon to travel and
would be hours finding him barking treed. If he had been a mute
trailer I would have left him in the woods without the slightest idea
where he was and that is no fun when you have gone three or four
miles walk from home to get a 'coon chase.
Another brother puts it this way: Some hunters prefer a still trailer
on a cold trail. I have handled both kinds but it is an advantage to
the hunter in keeping in touch with his hound if the hound will "wind
his horn" occasionally on a cold trail for very often a wide hound
will travel a couple of miles on a cold trail before starting the
game. In windy weather, the hunters might be at a loss to know in
which direction his dog was working, if he did not hear him. I like a
dog with a loud, clear voice and one that keeps the music going
steady once the game is afoot.
Still another gives voice to his sentiment thus: I want a good
tonguer, one that will give me no trouble in keeping the direction
they are going. One that is a courser, that is, that never foots
around trying to find every track a 'coon makes, but keeps on finding
ahead anywhere from a hundred yards to a quarter of a mile. That kind
of a dog keeps you awake when cold trailing, and is apt to warm up at
any time.
A Western tonguer adherent says: For 'coon I like the cold trailer
that lets you know where he is going, and don't believe they will
hole any sooner for him than a still trailer, and I never saw a full
blooded hound still track. My hounds give a long whoop every few rods
on cold trail, and will "back brush" a 'coon or wolf that is many
hours old but will find him, and you can follow up so as to keep in
hearing. My dogs are quite fast but I do not go back on a moderately
slow dog to shoot after. I think they circle better.
From Indian Territory comes this addition to the testimony: The
thoroughbred hound for 'coon is my view after 40 years' experience. A
good many are giving their idea as to which is best, the still
trailer or the dog that gives tongue. I have never known a
thoroughbred hound fail to give tongue on trail. The thoroughbred has
the greatest powers of scent and this is very important as you do not
have to travel so much ground to find a trail that he can run. What
we want when we go after 'coon is to start and catch all we can. If
we cannot start one we cannot catch him, sure. I have followed behind
over the same ground with my hound that another party had been over
with their still trailers and caught more 'coon than they.
And again if you are out on a windy night and your still trailer gets
a 'coon treed to the windward of you, you might as well go home as
there will be no more fun for you if he is a good tree dog.
Now just one thing more in regard to still trailers catching 'coon on
the ground. That has not been my experience, for you all know when
you go a rabbit hunting with a still trailer, how soon the rabbit
will hole. He has no warning where the dog is, so in trailing 'coon,
the 'coon will wait and listen to the hound and if he is a fast
runner, Mr. 'Coon has waited too long. He must make for the nearest
tree or get caught. With the still trailer, the 'coon hears the
leaves and brush snapping and without any more warning makes for his
home tree.
Hundreds of hunters take this view, that is, favor the dog which
barks from the time he takes up the trail. The principal advantage as
has been pointed out, is that the hound and hunter may thus keep in
closer touch, and that the hunter is treated to "music," so sweet to
the ear of the average enthusiast.
Another considerable following, however, at once take issue and
present an array of argument in favor of the dog which keeps his
silence.
Let us first consider the views of a conservative Pennsylvania
brother, in favor of the still trailer: I see a good many 'coon
hunters disagree on 'coon dogs, still trailers vs. tongueing dogs.
Now in my experience, I have used nearly all kinds of 'coon dogs,
some good ones and some not so good. I think the difference is in the
kind of country to be hunted, for hunting in a very rough country
that is cut up by long hollows and large tracts of timber I prefer a
tongueing dog.
For hunting in this locality where it is all cut up into small fields
with principally all rail fences and timber in small blocks, mostly
cut over by lumbermen and nothing left but hollow trees and brush, I
prefer a still trailer by long odds, as the noisy dog gives the 'coon
warning as soon as he strikes the trail, then Mr. 'Coon takes to the
rail fence or a jungle of briers and old tree tops and begins to get
busy and is soon in one of those hollow trees, where he is perfectly
safe as far as I am concerned, for I never cut down any den trees.
The still trailer does his work quietly and is right on to the 'coon
before it is aware that the dog is after it. So Mr. 'Coon is obliged
to climb whatever kind of a tree there is handy and very often is
taken on the ground.
From a Central States hunter's letter: I used to be a dear lover of a
dog that would bark on trail and raise some of them, but now my
choice is a still trailer, as a quiet trailer suits this locality
best on account of the thickly populated country and the great amount
of stock raised, and a great many farmers claim the constant barking
of dogs frightens their sheep. For that reason fox chasing is fast
losing its interest and foxes are becoming quite a nuisance in the
destruction of quail, pheasant, rabbit and such like game.
A brother of conviction on this question writes: It takes patience,
perseverance and skill to properly train a hound for 'coon. First,
the dog must be silent until he finds the hot scent, so as not to
give Mr. Coon time to commence his sunny ways, as the 'coon has a
good knowledge box and lots of strings to his bow which he uses to
evade Mr. Hound. He will swim down and sometimes up stream and often
crosses them. Will never miss a hollow log and comes out at the other
end, and will climb leaning trees and leap from them to others and
may return to the stream for a good long swim before he will make
quietly for his den. This is what an old 'coon will often do with a
noisy dog, but with a swift and silent one he will have to climb at
once and stay there.
Another telling stroke for silence: Regarding silent trailers: By
silent trailer I mean a dog that will not tongue the very instant he
finds an old trail when there is yet some scent, but that will work
it quietly until he starts the game. I have often seen hounds roar on
an old scent as well as on a new one. These dogs have generally a
special gait, which they keep steady whether the trail is cold or
hot, and give the full cry the whole time, and also often come to a
full stop to blast away a few louder roars. These dogs dwell too long
on the scent for me. My strain of dogs will open only when they are
on a hot scent; if cold, they will cover the ground silently and
fast.
A swift dog cannot keep up the full cry, but will give a roar now and
then and not bark often as it takes a lot of wind to roar. Therefore,
a dog cannot be a flyer and a roarer in the meantime, and a deer,
fox, lynx or 'coon, chased by a fleet and silent dog as above
mentioned, will have to point at once for safety, and will have no
spare time for tricks. The lynx or 'coon will have to climb in a
hurry the first tree he finds, while with a noisy dog Mr. 'Coon will
commence with his tricks as soon as he will hear the music, and I
maintain and stand ready to prove that a silent trailer as I have
described will water more deer in five hours in this country than a
noisy one will in five days.
[Illustration: "He Was Here a Moment Ago!"]
THE MUSIC OF THE HOUND.
The term "music" as applied to the barking of trailing hunting dogs,
is to the uninitiated a gross misnomer.
"Isn't that music grand!" exclaimed an enthusiast afield.
"I can hear no music for the noise those dogs are making," replied
the other. And so it goes.
The hound is the master orator, with a command of language that
varies from uncertainty, joy, anxiety, conviction, eagerness with
great clearness and truth. His shades of meaning are accurately
intonated and perfectly comprehendible to the well versed hunter.
The hound is looked upon with disdain by people who know not his
capabilities, and is considered in the nature of the dunce of the
tribe. Well do the well informed know that he is the most delicately
strung and the most highly emotional type we have.
Every note that he utters is an expression of emotion. Because
emotion is more susceptible to music than any other agency, his code
of expression is likened unto notes of music, and with more fidelity
than some instrumental sound producers committed in the name of
music.
A student of this pure and undefiled language says: "Each note
represents a particular feeling, and the whole harmoniously blended,
tells a simple story in a pleasing way."
Now the hound takes up the cold trail. He signals his master--there
are notes of expectancy and hope in the tone. As the scent grows
warmer, his tone of hope rises. He makes a loss. Could anything
express regret and chagrin any more plainly than his doleful cry?
Back on the trail. Then joy again. Then comes the excited,
imperative, anxious yet joyous fortissimo scale running when the
quarry trees.
[Illustration: "Here He Is!"]
He who has not been schooled in classical music sits bored and alone
at the production of an opera, or yawns and wishes he were at home in
bed, as the vigorous long haired performer spells out his emotions on
the piano key board. So it is that one with no ear for music of the
hound is disgusted thruout the sally to the woods at night, or the
fields by day. He can dwell upon nothing save the scratches, falls
and efforts required, all of which another forgets in fixing his
attention on the action and music of the chase.
Some hounds are better singers than others, just as is the case with
people. Also he must be trained to perform pleasingly and truly. If
he is well trained and is certain in his movements it will be
reflected in his music. If he is faulty in foot and head work he will
also betray these faults in his voice. Anxious to cover his own
shortcomings, he takes to guessing and guesses wrong. He becomes a
liar, and his singing is like unto the fellow with a cracked voice
who insists on singing in the church choir, thereby annoying
everybody.
An experienced hunter can tell by the song of a hound how capable he
is, even if there were not many other ways of fixing values.
Bring up a hound under proper training methods, and he is almost
certain to prove a rare musician.
If you are not versed in music of this kind, you are unfortunate, and
should join the fox or 'coon hunters and take a course of lessons. It
is well worth while.
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE DOG ON THE TRAP LINE.
Some trappers will take issue in regard to the advantages and
disadvantages of the dog on the trap line. The subject holds
sufficient interest, however, to warrant a chapter, and if some
lonesome trappers benefit thereby, our effort shall stand justified.
Now, we will say first that there is as much or more difference in
the man who handles the dog as there is in the different breeds of
dogs. We have heard men say that they wanted no dog on the trap line
with them, and that they didn't believe that any one who did want a
dog on the trap line knew but very little about trapping at the best.
Now those are the views and ideas of some trappers, while my
experience has led me to see it otherwise. One who is so constituted
that they must give a dog the growl or perhaps a kick every time they
come in reach, will undoubtedly find a dog of but little use on the
trap line. We have known some dogs to refuse to eat, and would lay
out where they could watch in the direction in which their master had
gone and piteously howl for hours, waiting the return of the master
and friend. I have seen other dogs that would take for the barn or
any other place to get out of the way at the first sight or sound of
their master. This man's dog is usually more attached to a stranger
than to his master. The man who cannot treat his dog as a friend and
companion will have good cause to say that a dog is a nuisance on the
trap line.
I have seen men training dogs for bird hunting, who would treat the
dog most cruelly and claim that a dog could not be trained to work a
bird successfully under any other treatment. Though I have seen
others train the same breed of dogs to work a bird to perfection and
that their most harsh treatment would be a tap or two with a little
switch. I will say that one who cannot understand the wag of a dog's
tail, the wistful gaze of the eye, the quick lifting of the ears, the
cautious raising of a foot, and above all, treat his dog as a friend,
need expect his dog to be but little else than a nuisance on the trap
line.
Several years ago I had a partner who had a dog, part stag hound and
the other part just dog, I think. One day he (my partner) asked if I
would object to his bringing the dog to camp, saying that his wife
was going on a visit and he had no place to leave the dog. I told him
that if he had a good dog I would be glad to have him in camp. In a
day or two pard went home and brought in the dog. Well, when he came
the dog was following along behind his master with tail and ears
drooping, and looking as though he never heard a kind word in his
life. I asked if the animal was any good and he replied that he did
not know how good he was. I asked the name of the dog. He said, "Oh,
I call him Pont." I spoke to the dog, calling him by name. He looked
at me wistfully, wagging his tail. The look that dog gave me said to
me as plainly as words that this was the first kind word he had ever
heard.
We went inside and the dog started to follow, when his master in a
harsh voice said, "get out of here." I said, "where do you expect the
dog to go?" I then took an old coat that was in the camp, placed it
in the corner and called gently to Pont, patted the coat and told him
to lay down on the coat, which he did. I patted him saying that is a
good place for Pont, and I can see that wistful gaze the dog gave me,
now. After we had our supper I asked my partner if he wasn't going to
fix Pont some supper. "Oh, after a while I will see if I can't find
something for him." I took a biscuit from the table, spread some
butter on it, called the dog to me, broke the biscuit in pieces, and
gave it to the dog from my hand; then I found an old basin that
chanced to be about the camp and fixed the dog a good supper.
After the dog had finished his supper I went to the coat in the
corner, spoke gently to Pont, patted the coat, and told him to lay
down on the coat. That was the end of that, Pont knew his place and
took it without any further trouble.
The next morning when we were about ready to start out on the trap
line I asked Pard what he intended to do with Pont. He said that he
would tie him to a tree that stood against the shanty close to the
door. We were going to take different lines of traps. I said, "What
is the harm of Pont's going with me?" "All right, if you want him, I
don't want any dog with me." I said, Am, (that was Pard's given name,
for short) I don't believe the dog wants to go with you any more than
you want him to. Am's reply was that he guessed he would go all right
if he wanted him. I said. Am, just for shucks, say nothing to the dog
and see which one he will follow. So we stepped outside the shack and
the dog stood close to me.
I said, "Go on Am, and we will see who the dog will follow." He
started off and the dog only looked at him. Am stopped and told the
dog to come on. The dog got around behind me.
Am said, "If I wanted you to come, you would come or I would break
your neck." I said, "No, Am, you won't break Pout's neck while I am
around; it would not look nice."
I started on my way, Pont following after I had gone a little ways. I
spoke to Pont, patting him on the head and told him what a good dog
he was. He jumped about and showed more ways than one how pleased he
was, and from that day until we broke camp, Pont stayed with me. He
showed plainly the disgust he had for his master.
It so happened that the first trap I came to was a trap set in a
spring run, and it had a 'coon in it. I allowed Pont to help kill the
'coon, and after the 'coon was dead, I patted Pont and told him what
great things he had done in capturing the 'coon. Pont showed what
pride he took in the hunt, so much so that he did not like to have Am
go near the pelt. I saw from the very first day out that all that
Pont needed was kind treatment and proper training to make a good
help on the trap line.
I was careful to let him know what I was doing when setting a trap,
and when he would go to smell at the bait after a trap had been set,
I would speak to him in a firm voice and let him know that I did not
approve of what he was doing. When making blind sets, I took the same
pains to show and give him to understand what I was doing. I would
sometimes, after giving him fair warning, let him put his foot into a
trap. I would scold him in a moderate manner and release him. Then
all the time I was resetting the trap I would talk trap to him, and
by action and word teach him the nature of the trap. Mr. Trapper,
please do not persuade yourself to believe that the intelligent dog
cannot understand if you go about it right.
In two weeks Pont had advanced so far in his training that I no
longer had to pay any attention to him on account of the traps. The
third day Pont was with me he found a 'coon that had escaped with a
trap nearly two weeks before. My route called me up a little draw
from the main stream. I had not gone far up this when Pont took the
trail of some animal and began working it up the side of the hill. I
stood and watched him until the trail took him to an old log, when
Pont began to sniff at a hole in the log. He soon raised his head and
gave a long howl, as much as to say he is here and I want help. After
running a stick in the hole I soon discovered that the log was
hollow. I took my belt axe and pounded along on the log until I
thought I was at the right point and then chopped a hole in the log,
and as good luck would have it, I made the opening right on to the
'coon, and almost the first thing I saw on looking into the log was
the trap. Pont soon had the 'coon out, and when I saw it was the
'coon that had escaped with our trap, I gave Pont praise for what he
had done, petting him and telling him of his good deed, and he seemed
to understand it all.
Not long after this Am came into camp at night and reported that a
fox had broken the chain on a certain trap and gone off with the
trap, saying that he would take Pont in the morning and see if he
could find the fox. In the morning when we were ready to go Am tried
to have Pont follow him, but it was no go, Pont would not go with
him. Then Am put a rope on to him and tried to lead him, but Pont
would sulk and would not be led. Then Am lost his temper and wanted
to break Pont's neck again. I said that I did not like to have Pont
abused and that I would go along with him. When we came to the place
where the fox had escaped with the trap Am at once began to slap his
hands and hiss Pont on. Pont only crouched behind me for protection.
I persuaded Am to go on down the run and look at the traps down that
way while I and Pont would look after the escaped fox.