CHAPTER III

Returning to the lake, and now gathering the information furnished by

geology, whose silent annals are so carefully and truthfully recorded

(being as they are beyond reach of man’s little contentions and petty

adjustments), we find that the original lake covered an area of about

seventy-five square miles, and attained great depths. Its placid waters,

beating possibly for centuries against the environing rocks, have left

their marks, from which it may be seen that in some places the depth was

120 feet, and in others 180.

We cannot fix the date of the break in the mountains which allowed the

drain to occur. So far man has not succeeded in grasping with invariable

accuracy the chronology of the admirable geological archives to which we

have referred, and in matters of this kind a discrepancy of a few

hundred years more or less is accepted as a trifle scarcely worth

mentioning. And possibly this may be right. For man’s passage through

life is so short that his conception of time cannot be applied to

Nature, whose evolutions, though apparently protracted and very slow to

see, in truth are sure to develop themselves harmoniously in every way,

as to time inclusive.

But no matter how far back the draining of the great lake may have taken

place, it had left its memory and impression, not only on the mountains

and the rocks, but also in the minds of men. The legend ran thus: At one

time there came among the Chibchas a man differing in aspect from the

inhabitants of the plateau, a man from the East, the land where the sun

rises, and from the low plains where the mighty rivers speed to the

ocean. He had taught them the arts of peace, the cultivation of the

soil, the division of time; he had established their laws, the precepts

by which their life was to be guided, their form of government; in one

word, he had been their apostle and legislator. His name was Bochica or

Zuhe. He resembled in aspect the Europeans who invaded the country under

Quesada.

It is asserted by a pious Spanish Bishop, who in the middle of the

seventeenth century wrote the history of the discovery and conquest of

the Chibcha kingdom, that the said Bochica was none other than the

Apostle St. Bartholomew, as to whose final work and preachings there is

(not to overstate the case) some obscurity. The good old Bishop states

that, as the Christian faith, according to the Divine decree, was to be

preached in every corner of the earth, it must have also been preached

amongst the Chibchas, and that, as nothing was known with certainty

about the final whereabouts of the Apostle Bartholomew, and he was not

unlike the description made of Bochica by the Chibchas (which,

by-the-by, was such that it might have fitted any white man with a long

blonde beard), it is evident that the saint must have visited those

Andine regions. Furthermore, he adds, there is a stone on one of the

mountains, situated between the plateau of Bogotá and the eastern

plains, which bears the footprints of the saint. This, to many people,

is decisive, and I, for my part, am not going to gainsay it, since it

serves two important ends. It explains the saint’s whereabouts in a most

creditable and appropriate fashion, and it puts a definite end to all

doubts concerning Bochica’s identity. We cannot be too grateful to those

who thus afford pleasant explanations of matters which would otherwise

be intricate and difficult, perhaps even impossible, of solution.

The legend went on to say that the god of the Chibchas (Chibchacum),

becoming irate at their excesses and vices, flooded the plain where they

lived, by turning into it several neighbouring rivers. The inhabitants,

or such of them as were not drowned, took refuge on the neighbouring

mountain-tops, where, animated by that fervour and love of the Deity

which takes possession of every true believer when he finds himself

thoroughly cornered, they prayed abundantly to the Bochica, whose

precepts they had utterly forgotten. He, of course, took pity on them,

and, appearing amidst them on the mountain-top one afternoon in all the

glory of the setting sun, which covered him as with a sort of royal

mantle, he dashed his golden sceptre against the mighty granite wall of

the nearest mountain, which opened at the blow into the gap through

which the waters poured, draining the lake, and leaving as a memorial of

his power and his love for his chosen people those waterfalls whose

thunder goes up like a perennial hymn to heaven high above the trees

that crown the mountain-tops, and whose sprays are as incense for ever,

wreathing on high at the foot of a stupendous altar.

The cataract takes two leaps, first striking a protruding ledge at a

distance of about 75 feet from the starting-point, a sort of

spring-board from which the other mighty leap is taken. Close to the

shore, at a distance of about 6 feet, on the very brim of the abyss,

there is a rock about 10 feet square, which, when the waters are low,

breaks the river, and appears like a sinking island in the mass of

foaming waters. The rock is slippery, being covered with moss, which the

waters and the mists keep constantly wet. Bolivar, the soldier to whose

tenacity and genius Colombia and four other South American republics owe

their political independence, once visited the cataracts, and stood on

the very edge of the abyss; glancing fitfully at the small round island

of stone that stood in the very centre of the waters, fascinated by the

danger, he jumped, booted and spurred as he was, upon the stone, thus

standing in the very vortex of the boiling current. After remaining

there for a few minutes he jumped back. The tale is interesting, for few

men indeed have the courage and nerve required, once upon the rock, not

to fall from it and disappear in a shroud fit for any man, however

great.

After the little scene of the foundation of Bogotá, in what later on

became the public square of the city, Quesada devoted himself to

establishing a government. I cannot help thinking that challenges like

that which he flung down for the purpose of establishing the right of

property are, to say the least, peculiar. True it is that no one

contradicted, and, according to the old proverb, silence gives consent.

A comfortable little tag this, especially when you can gag the other

side! And a most serviceable maxim to burglars, conquerors, and, in

fact, all such as practise the art of invading somebody else’s premises,

and taking violent possession of the premises and all that may be found

on them. What I cannot for the life of me understand is, how it is that,

the process being identical in essence, so many worthy men and so many

worthy nations punish the misunderstood burglar, and bestow honours,

praise, and, so far as it lies in their power, glory, upon the

conqueror. It seems a pity that the gentle moralists who act in this

puzzling fashion have not found time to indicate the point, in the

process of acquiring somebody else’s property by violence and bloodshed,

when the vastness of the undertaking transfigures crime into virtue. The

average man would hold it for a boon if those competent to do it were to

fix the limit, just as in chemistry a freezing or a boiling point is

marked by a certain number of degrees of heat. What a blessing it would

be for the rest of us poor mortals, who find ourselves beset by many

doubts, and who through ignorance are prone to fall into grave errors!

but as these hopes are certainly beyond fulfilment, and are possibly out

of place, it is better to drop them.

Quesada, after vanquishing the Chibchas and becoming lord of the land,

did not have it all his own way. The fame of El Dorado existed all over

the continent. Though peopled by numerous tribes, mostly hostile to each

other, some knowledge of the power of the Chibcha Empire, covering over

5,000 square miles and including a population estimated at over a

million and a half of inhabitants, had in the course of centuries slowly

permeated to very remote parts of what is now known as South America. In

the land of Quito, situated below the equator, it is said that the

conquerors who had invaded it heard from an Indian of the wonderful El

Dorado. The Indian’s tale must have been enhanced with all the charms

invented by a vivid imagination, playing safely at a distance. This set

many of the conquerors on the road to Bogotá. Don Sebastian de

Belalcázar, who had entered the continent by the Pacific, led his

troops—not over 200 in number at the end of the journey—to the Bogotá

plateau, thus making a march of several hundred leagues across forest

and mountains, attracted by the renown of the land of El Dorado. Another

expedition which had entered the continent by the north-east coast of

the Atlantic, and had wandered along the Orinoco Valley for over two

years, eventually found itself near the plateau, and entered it, so

that, shortly after his arrival into the country and his conquest of it,

Quesada found himself confronted with two powerful rivals. For the

moment there was great danger that the conquerors might come to blows

amongst themselves, but Quesada’s political ability matched his military

gifts, and arrangements were soon made by which the three expeditions

were merged into one, gold and emeralds distributed amongst the

soldiers, numerous offices created, taxes established, the Indians and

their belongings distributed amongst the Christian conquerors, and the

reign of civilization established to the greater glory of God, and that

of his beloved monarch, the King of all the Spains.

One detail deserves mention as an instance of tenacious though

unpretending heroism. The men who had come along the Orinoco had

wandered for many weary months, and at times had been on the point of

starvation, so that all their leather equipment had been devoured. With

the expedition marched a friar who carried with him a fine Spanish cock

and four hens. During that long journey, which cost the lives of so many

men, the murderous attempts made against this feathered family were past

counting; yet the useful birds were saved, and formed the basis of an

innumerable progeny in the land of Colombia. The incident seems trivial,

but, if well weighed, the friar’s sustained effort against others, and

doubtless against himself, to save the precious germ, deserves the

highest praise.

After months of hunger, when the plenty found on the plateau had

restored equanimity to the hearts of the conquerors, they must have felt

how much they owed to the good friar, who, even if his sermons—about

which I know nothing—may not have been of the best, had left behind him

the hens to lay the egg so dear to civilized man, and the chanticleer to

sing the praises of the Almighty and to remind everyone in this instance

of the humble beings who serve Him and their fellow-creatures in such a

practical way.

It is not at all strange that the Spanish conquerors swallowed the

wonderful tales of incalculable treasure to be found in different parts

of the continent which they had just discovered. Columbus himself, in

his second voyage, landed at Veraguas on the mainland, and reaped a most

bountiful harvest of gold. Never before in the history of Spanish wars

had such booty fallen to the lot of the common soldier as in that

instance. Other expeditions in various parts of the continent were

equally fortunate, so that they supported the belief that gold was

inexhaustible. The ostensible object of the conquest was the conversion

of the infidels to the true faith; officially the Government of the

Metropolis proclaimed first and foremost its intense desire to save the

souls of so many million men who groped in the darkness of heathenism.

Doubtless many of the conquerors really thought that they were doing the

work of God, but the great majority of them were certainly moved by more

worldly ends and attractions.

The Indians, on their side, not only in Colombia but everywhere else,

received the Spaniards in a friendly and hospitable way. Some warlike

tribes there were, but it does not appear that their hostilities against

the Spaniards began before these had shown their cruel greed and

insatiable thirst for gold. The precious metals and jewels that had been

accumulated amongst the tribes in the course of many generations were

given freely to the Spaniards, who, believing that greater treasures

were kept back from them, did not hesitate to recur to the cruellest

methods of extortion, burning, pillaging, killing, and destroying

everything in their way.

After a struggle which did not last long, the Indians—even those of

riper civilization and better organized—were completely subdued, and the

sway of the Spaniard established all over the land, whose former lords

became the slaves of the conquerors.

Those who know the Indian of to-day in certain parts of the South

American continent can hardly understand how at one time that same race

possessed the qualities indispensable to the civilization which it had

attained at the time of the Spanish conquest. Boiling the whole thing

down to hard facts, we find that the Spaniards discovered a land wherein

they found a people with civilization inferior to that of the old world;

that this people, divided and subdivided in many tribes, received the

conquerors hospitably, treated them generously, and in their ignorance

considered them as superior beings; that they gave over to the Spaniards

all the gold and treasures which the latter coveted, and that it would

have been feasible for those superior beings to establish the

civilization and the religion which they longed to propagate amongst the

infidels, by methods worthy of the Christian faith which they professed.

Instead of this, violence and bloodshed were the only methods employed,

not to civilize, but to despoil the natives; and the right of force,

brutal and sanguinary, was the law of the land. To this and its

accompaniments the poets lifted up pæans of praise, the Church gave its

blessing, history its acceptance, and, barring a handful of the just, no

one gave a thought to the oppressed and helpless Indians whose sole

crime was they were weaker than their aggressors.

Let us be thankful for what we have. Quintana, the great Spanish lyrical

poet, pondering on these misdeeds and crimes, exclaims that they were

crimes of the epoch, not of Spain. Fortunately it is, as we like to

think, our privilege to live in an epoch when such things are

impossible, when the mere thirst for gold, or its equivalent, cannot

impel powerful nations to forget right and justice and to proclaim

hypocritically that in so doing they are fulfilling the law of Him who

said, ‘Love ye one another,’ and proclaimed charity amongst men as the

supreme rule of life. Nowadays such wrongs as those perpetrated by the

Spanish conquerors could not happen. Wars we have, and violence and

destruction, and malcontents complain of them, saying that the same old

burglarious spirit of brutal greed is the real cause of those wars; but

those malcontents should not be (and, in fact, are not) listened to. I

myself do not understand or pretend to explain where the justice of many

wars comes in, but certainly they must be waged for good and honest

ends, because the great and the powerful say that the ends are good and

honest, that civilization and Christianity are served thereby; and it

must be so since they say it, for they, like Brutus, are ‘honourable

men.’ Let us be thankful, then, that we live in an age of justice and

universal fairness amongst men!

Down the Orinoco in a Canoe · 第 3 / 20 章