CHAPTER XVII

THE FUTURE OF SPAIN

An Englishman who, from over thirty years' residence in Spain and close

connection with the country, numbered among her people some of his most

valued friends, thus speaks of the national characteristics:

"The Spanish and English characters are, indeed, in many points

strangely alike. Spain ranks as one of the Latin nations, and the

Republican orators of Spain are content to look to France for light and

leading in all their political combinations; but a large mass of the

nation, the bone and sinew of the country, the silent, toiling tillers

of the soil, are not of this way of thinking.... There is a sturdy

independence in the Spanish character, and an impatience of dictation

that harmonises more nearly with the English character than with that of

her Latin neighbours.... There is a gravity and reticence also in the

Spaniard that is absent from his mercurial neighbour, and which is,

indeed, much more akin to our cast of temper.

"True it is that our insular manners form at first a bar to our

intercourse with the Spaniard, who has been brought up in a school of

deliberate and stately courtesy somewhat foreign to our business turn of

mind; but how superficial this difference is may be seen by the strong

attachment Englishmen form to the country and her people, when once the

strangeness of first acquaintance has worn off; and those of us who know

the country best will tell you that they have no truer or more faithful

friends than those they have amongst her people."

Speaking of her labouring classes, and as a very large employer of

labour in every part of the Peninsula he had the best possible means of

judging, this writer says:

"The Spanish working man is really a most sober, hard-working being, not

much given to dancing, and not at all to drinking. They are

exceptionally clever and sharp, and learn any new trade with great

facility. They are, as a rule, exceedingly honest--perfect gentlemen in

their manners, and the lowest labourer has an _aplomb_ and ease of

manner which many a person in a much higher rank in this country might

envy. When in masses they are the quietest and most tractable workmen it

is possible to have to deal with. The peasant and working man, the real

bone and sinew of the country, are as fine a race as one might wish to

meet with--not free from defects--what race is?--but possessed of

excellent sterling qualities, which only require knowing to be

appreciated. I cannot say as much for the Government employees and

politicians. Connection with politics seems to have a corrupt and

debasing effect, which, although perhaps exaggerated in Spain, is,

unfortunately, not by any means confined to that country only."[3]

[3] _Commercial and Industrial Spain_, by George Higgin,

Mem. Inst. C. E., London, 1886.

In Spain to-day everything is dated from "La Gloriosa," the Revolution

of 1868, the "Day of Spanish Liberty," as it well deserves to be called,

and there is every reason to look back with pride upon that time;

because, after the battle of Alcoléa, when the cry raised in the Puerta

del Sol, _Viva Prim!_ was answered by the troops shut up in the

Government offices, and the people, swarming up the _rejas_ and the

balconies, fraternised with their brothers-in-arms, who had been

intended, could they have been trusted by their commanders, to shoot

them down, Madrid was for some days wholly in the hands of King Mob, and

of King Mob armed. The victorious troops were still at some distance,

the Queen and her _camarilla_ had fled across the frontier, the

Government had vanished, and the people were a law unto themselves. Yet

not one single act of violence was committed; absolute peace and

quietness, and perfect order prevailed. The ragged men in the street

formed themselves into guards: just as they were, they took up their

positions at the abandoned Palace, at the national buildings and

institutions; the troops were drawn up outside Madrid and its people

were its guardians. Committees of emergency were formed; everything went

on as if nothing unusual had happened, and not a single thing was

touched or destroyed in the Palace, left wholly at the mercy of the

sovereign people. The excesses which took place in some of the towns,

after the brutal assassination of Prim and the abdication of Amadeo,

were rather the result of political intrigue and the working of

interested demagogues on the passions of people misled and used as

puppets.

With the advance of commerce and industry, and the massing of workers in

the towns, has come, as in other countries, the harvest of the

demagogue. Strikes and labour riots now and then break out, and the

Spanish anarchist is not unknown. But the investment of their money in

industrial and commercial enterprises, so largely increasing, is giving

the people the best possible interest in avoiding disturbances of this,

or of any other, kind: and as knowledge of more enlightened finance is

penetrating to the working people themselves, the number who are likely

to range themselves on the side of law and order is daily increasing.

The improved railway and steamer communication with parts of the country

heretofore isolated, much of it only completed since this book was

begun--in fact, within the last few months--is bringing the northern and

western ports into prominence. Galicia now not only has an important

industry in supplying fresh fish for Madrid, but has a good increasing

trade with Europe and America. Pontevedra and Vigo, as well as

Villagarcia, are improving daily since the railway reached them. Fresh

fruit and vegetables find a ready market, and new uses for materials are

coming daily to the front. Esparto, the coarse grass which grows almost

everywhere in Spain, has long been an article of commerce, as well as

the algaroba bean--said to be the locust bean, on which John the Baptist

might have thriven--for it is the most fattening food for horses and

cattle, and produces in them a singularly glossy and beautiful coat.

This bean, which is as sweet as a dried date, is given, husk and all, to

the mules and horses at all the little wayside _ventas_, and is now used

in some of the patent foods for cattle widely known abroad. The stalk of

the maize is used for making smokeless powder, and the husks for two

kinds of glucose, two of cotton, three of gum, and two of oil. _Glucea

dextrina_ paste is used as a substitute for india-rubber. These products

of the maize, other than its grain, are employed in the preparation of

preserves, syrup, beer, jams, sweets, and drugs, and in the manufacture

of paper, cardboard, mucilage, oils and lubricants, paints, and many

other things. The imitation india-rubber promises to be the basis of a

most important industry. Mixed with equal portions of natural gum, it

has all the qualities of india-rubber, and is twenty-four per cent.

less in cost.

A great deal has been said about the depreciation of the value of the

peseta (franc) since the outbreak of the war with America, but this

unsatisfactory state of affairs is gradually mending; and the attention

of the Government is thoroughly awakened to it. The law of May 17, 1898,

and the Royal decree of August 9 provide that if the notes in

circulation of the Bank of Spain exceed fifteen hundred millions, gold

must be guaranteed to the half of the excess of circulation between

fifteen hundred and two thousand, not the half of all the notes in

circulation. The metal guarantee, silver and gold, must cover half of

the note circulation, when the latter is between fifteen hundred and two

thousand millions, and two-thirds when the circulation exceeds two

thousand. But the Bank has not kept this precept, and there has, in

fact, been an illegal issue of notes to the value of 6,752,813 pesetas.

So states the _Boletin de la Cámara de Comercio de España en la Gran

Bretáña_ of April 15, 1901.

The _Boletin_, after giving an account of the English custom of using

cheques against banking accounts, instead of dealing in metal or paper

currency only, as in Spain, strongly advocates the establishment of the

English method. It is only in quite recent years that there has been any

paper currency at all in Spain; the very notes of the Bank of Spain were

not current outside the walls of Madrid, and had only a limited

currency within.

Barcelona has long been called the Manchester of Spain, and in the days

before the "Gloriosa" it presented a great contrast to all the other

towns in the Peninsula. Its flourishing factories, its shipping, its

general air of a prosperous business-centre was unique in Spain. This is

no longer the case. Although the capital of Cataluña has made enormous

strides, and would scarcely now be recognised by those who knew it

before the Revolution, it has many rivals. Bilbao is already ahead of it

in some respects, and other ports, already mentioned, are running it

very close. Still, Barcelona is a beautiful city; its situation, its

climate, its charming suburbs full of delightful country houses, its

wealth of flowers, and its air of bustling industry, give a wholly

different idea of Spain to that so often carried away by visitors to the

dead and dying cities of which Spain has, unfortunately, too many.

It is becoming more common for young Spaniards to come to England to

finish their education, or to acquire business habits, and the study of

the English language is daily becoming more usual. In Spain, as already

remarked, no one speaks of the language of the country as "Spanish"; it

is always "Castellano," of which neither Valencian, Catalan, Galician,

still less Basque, is a dialect--they are all more or less languages in

themselves. But Castellano is spoken with a difference both by the

_pueblo bajo_ of Madrid and also in the provinces. The principal

peculiarities are the omission of the _d_--_prado_ becomes _praö_--in

any case the pronunciation of _d_, except as an initial, is very soft,

similar to our _th_ in _thee_, but less accentuated. The final _d_ is

also omitted by illiterate speakers; _Usted_ is pronounced _Uste_, and

even _de_ becomes _e_. _B_ and _v_ are interchangeable. One used to see,

on the one-horsed omnibus which in old times represented the locomotion

of Madrid, _Serbicio de omnibus_ quite as often as _Servicio_. Over the

_venta_ of El Espirito Santo on the road to Alcalá--now an outskirt of

Madrid--was written, _Aqui se veve bino y aguaardieñte_--meaning, _Aqui

se bebe vino_, etc. (Here may be drunk wine).

The two letters are, in fact, almost interchangeable in sound, but the

educated Spaniard never, of course, makes the illiterate mistake of

transposing them in writing. The sound of _b_ is much more liquid than

in English, and to pronounce _Barcelona_ as a Castilian pronounces it,

we should spell it _Varcelona_; the same with _Córdoba_, which to our

ears sounds as if written _Córdova_, and so, in fact, we English spell

it.

Spaniards, as a rule, speak English with an excellent accent, having all

the sounds that the English possess, taking the three kingdoms, England,

Scotland, and Ireland, into account.

Our _th_, which is unpronounceable to French, Italians, and Germans,

however long they may have lived in England, comes naturally to the

Spaniard, because in his own _d_, soft _c_, and _z_ he has the sounds of

our _th_ in "_th_ee" and "_th_in." His _ch_ is identical with ours, and

his _j_ and _x_ are the same as the Irish and Scotch pronunciation of

_ch_ and _gh_.

The Spanish language is not difficult to learn--at any rate to read and

understand--because there are absolutely no unnecessary letters, if we

except the initial _h_, which is, or appears to us, silent--and the

pronunciation is invariable. What a mine of literary treasure is opened

to the reader by a knowledge of Spanish, no one who is ignorant of that

majestic and poetic language can imagine. With the single exception of

Longfellow's beautiful rendering of the _Coplas de Manrique_, which is

absolutely literal, while preserving all the grace and dignity of the

original, I know of no translation from the Spanish which gives the

reader any real idea of the beauty of Spanish literature in the past

ages, nor even of such works of to-day as those of Juan Valera and some

others.

Picturesque and poetic ideas seem common to the Spaniard to-day, as

ever. Only the other day, in discussing the monument to be erected to

Alfonso XII. in Madrid, one of the newspapers reported the

suggestion--finally adopted, I think--that it should be an equestrian

statue of the young King, "with the look on his face with which he

entered Madrid after ending the Carlist war." What a picture it summons

to the imagination of the boy King--for he was no more--in the pride of

his conquest of the elements of disorder and of civil war, which had so

long distracted his beloved country--a successful soldier and a worthy

King!

Spain is a country of surprises and of contradictions; even her own

people seem unable to predict what may happen on the morrow. Those who

knew her best had come to despair of her emancipation at the very moment

when Prim and Topete actually carried the Revolution to a successful

issue. Again, after the miserable fiasco of the attempt at a republic,

the world, even in Spain itself, was taken by surprise by the peaceful

restoration of Alfonso XII.

I can, perhaps, most fitly end this attempt at showing the causes of

Spain's decay and portraying the present characteristics of this most

interesting and romantic nation by a quotation from the pen of one of

her sons. Don Antonio Ferrer del Rio, Librarian of the Ministry of

Commerce, Instruction, and Public Works, and member of the Reales

Academias de Buenas Letras of Seville and Barcelona, thus writes, in his

preface to his _Decadencia de España_, published in Madrid in 1850: "It

is my intention to point out the true origin of the decadence of Spain.

The imagination of the ordinary Spaniard has always been captivated by,

and none of them have failed to sing the praises of, those times in

which the sun never set on the dominion of its kings." While professing

not to presume to dispute this former glory, Señor Ferrer del Rio goes

on to say that he only aspires to get at the truth of his country's

subsequent decay. "There was one happy epoch in which Spain reached the

summit of her greatness--that of the Reyes Católicos, Don Fernando V.

and Doña Isabel I. Under their reign were united the sceptres of

Castilla, Aragon, Navarra, and Granada; the feudal system

disappeared--it had never extended far into the eastern limits of the

kingdom--the abuses in the Church were in great measure reformed, the

administration of the kingdom with the magnificent reign of justice

began to be consolidated, in the Cortes the powerful voice of the people

was heard; and almost at the same moment Christian Spain achieved the

conquest of the Moors, against whom the different provinces had been

struggling for eight centuries, and the immortal discovery of a new

world. Up to this moment the prosperity of Spain was rising; from that

hour her decadence began. With her liberty she lost everything, although

for some time longer her military laurels covered from sight her real

misfortunes." After referring to the defeat of the _Comuneros_, and the

execution of Padilla and his companions, champions of the people's

rights, he goes on to show that while the aristocracy had received a

mortal blow in the reign of Ferdinand and Isabella in the cause of

consolidating the kingdom and of internal order, they had retained

sufficient power to trample on the liberties of the people, while they

were not strong enough to form a barrier against the encroachments of

the absolute monarchs who succeeded, or to prevent the power eventually

lapsing into the hands of the Church. "Consequently, theocracy gained

the ascendency, formidably aided and strengthened by the odious tribunal

whose installation shadowed even the glorious epoch of Isabel and

Fernando, absorbing all jurisdiction, and interfering with all

government. Religious wars led naturally to European conflicts, to the

Spanish people being led to wage war against heresy everywhere, and the

nation--exhausted by its foreign troubles, oppressed internally under

the tyranny of the Inquisition, which, usurping the name of 'Holy,' had

become the right hand of the policy of Charles V., and the supreme power

in the Government of his grandson, Philip II.--lost all the precious

gifts of enlightenment in a blind and frantic fanaticism. The people

only awoke from lethargy, and showed any animation, to rush in crowds to

the _Autos da fé_ in which the ministers of the altar turned Christian

charity into a bleeding corpse, and reproduced the terrible scenes of

the Roman amphitheatre. Where the patricians had cried 'Christians to

the lions!' superstition shouted 'Heretics to the stake!' Humanity was

not less outraged than in the spectacle of Golgotha. Spanish monarchs

even authorised by their presence those sanguinary spectacles, while the

nobles and great personages in the kingdom thought themselves honoured

when they were made _alguiciles_, or familiars of the holy office.

Theocratic power preponderated, and intellectual movement became

paralysed, civilisation stagnated."

This has ever been the result of priestly rule. One can understand the

feeling of the liberal-minded Spaniard of to-day that, without wishing

to interfere with the charitable works inaugurated by the clergy, nor

desiring in any way to show disrespect to the Church, or the religion

which is dear to the hearts of the people, a serious danger lies, as the

Press is daily pointing out, in the religious orders, more especially

the Jesuits, obtaining a pernicious influence over the young,

undermining by a system of secret inquisition the teachings of science,

gaining power over the minds of the officers in the army, and

establishing a press agency which shall become a danger to the

constitution.

Spain's outlook seems brighter to-day than it has ever been since her

Golden Age of Isabella and Ferdinand; and it is the people who have

awakened, a people who have shown what power lies in them to raise their

beloved country to the position which is her right among the nations of

the world. But prophecy is vain in a country of which it has been said

"that two and two never make four." This year, if all go well meantime,

Alfonso XIII. will take the reins in his own hands--a mere boy, even

younger than his father was when called to the throne; than whom,

however, Spain has never had a more worthy ruler. But Alfonso XII. had

been schooled by adversity--he had to some extent roughed it amongst

Austrian and English boys. He came fresh from Sandhurst and from the

study of countries other than his own. To a naturally clever mind he had

added the invaluable lesson of a knowledge of the world as seen by one

of the crowd, not from the close precincts of a court and the elevation

of a throne.

For his son it may be said that he has been born and carefully educated

in a country where absolutism is dead, and by a mother who, as Regent,

has scrupulously observed the laws of the constitution. He will come, as

King, to a country which has known the precious boon of liberty too long

to part with it lightly; to a kingdom now, for the first time in

history, united as one people; where commerce and mutual interests have

taken the place of internecine distrust and hatred. It is only at the

present moment that this happy condition of things is spreading over the

country; each month, each week, giving fresh evidence of new industries

arising, of fresh capital invested in the development of the country. It

is in the sums so invested by the mass of the people that those who

believe in a bright future for Spain place their hopes; but we may all

of us wish the young monarch for whom his country is longing,

"God-speed."

PORTUGUESE LIFE IN TOWN AND COUNTRY

Spanish Life in Town and Country · 第 17 / 19 章