CHAPTER X

COMMERCE AND AGRICULTURE

Commerce and industry had progressed by leaps and bounds even during the

disastrous and troublous years between the expulsion of Isabel II. and

the restoration of her son. The progress is now much more steady and

more diffused over the whole country, but it is by no means less

remarkable, especially taking into consideration the disaster of the war

with America and the loss to Spain of her old colonies.

Among her politicians in past times there were never wanting those who

considered that the loss of Cuba would be a distinct gain to the mother

country, and perhaps it may be safely said that since the colony had not

only been for so many years the forcing-house of bureaucratic

corruption, but had also drained the resources of Spain both of money

and lives to the extreme limit of her possibility, she is more likely

now to regain her old position among European nations, when left at

peace to develop her enormous resources and set her house in order

without the distraction of war, either at home or abroad. When one

remembers that this happy condition has never obtained in the country

since the death of Ferdinand VII. until the close of the

Spanish-American War, and that the country is only now recovering from

the disorganisation caused by the return of her troops and refugees from

Cuba and Manila, it is not surprising to find that the activity

manifested in her trade, her manufactures, and her industries is such as

to give the greatest hopes for her future to her own people and to those

who watch her from afar with friendly eyes.

Whichever we may regard as cause or effect, the progress of the country

has been very largely identified with the extension of her railway

system. It must have been a great step towards liberal education when

the country which, priding herself on her geographical position and her

rich internal resources, had hitherto wrapped herself in her national

_capa_, and considered that she was amply sufficient to herself,

condescended to throw open her mountain barriers to immigrants. It was

not until 1848 that the first Spanish railway was opened, and it was but

seventeen miles in length; but in the next ten years five hundred miles

had been constructed, and between 1858 and 1868 no fewer than two

thousand eight hundred and five miles, the Pyrenees had been pierced,

and direct communication with the rest of Europe accomplished.

During the troublous years following the Revolution and the melancholy

struggles of the second Carlist war, very little progress was made.

Foreign capital, which had hitherto been invested in Spanish railways,

was naturally frightened away, and the Northern Railway itself, the

great artery to France, was constantly being torn up and damaged, and

the lives of the passengers endangered, by the armed mobs which infested

the country, and were supposed by some people to represent the cause of

legitimacy, and which had, in fact, the sanction of the Church and of

the Pope. It was not, in the majority of cases, that the people

sympathised with Don Carlos, but it was easier and more amusing for the

lazy and the ne'er-do-weels to receive pay and rations for carrying a

gun, and taking pot-shots at any object that presented itself, human or

other, than to work in the fields, the mines, or on the railways. Hence

public enterprise was paralysed; again and again the workmen, with no

desire of their own, were driven off by superior bands of these

wandering shooters, who scarcely deserved even the name of guerillas,

and public works were left deserted and decaying, while the commerce and

industry of the province were wrecked, and apparently destroyed

irrevocably.

In the earlier stages of railway construction and management, French

capital and French labour were employed. England held aloof, partly on

account of the closing of the London Stock Exchange to Spanish

enterprises, in consequence of the vexed question of the celebrated

coupons, but also because the aid afforded by the State did not fall in

with the ideas of English capitalists. They desired a guaranteed rate of

interest, while the Spanish Government would have nothing but a

subvention paid down in one lump sum, arguing that it would be

impossible to tell when a line was making more than the guaranteed

interest, "as the companies would so arrange their accounts as to show

invariably an interest smaller than that guaranteed!" With this view of

the honesty of their own officials, no one else could be expected to

have a better opinion of them; and England allowed France and Belgium

thenceforward to find all the capital and all the materials for Spanish

railways.

The total amount of subventions actually paid by Government up to

December 31, 1882, was £24,529,148. "If," says the author of _Commercial

and Industrial Spain_, "the money that we so candidly lent to the swarm

of defaulting South American Republics had been properly invested in

Spanish railways, a great deal of trouble might probably have been

spared to the unfortunate investors."

All that, however, is altered now: the State schools and universities

are turning out daily well-equipped native engineers, both for railway

and mining works, and Spaniards are finding their own capital for public

works. The phrase "Spain for the Spaniards" is acquiring a new

significance--perhaps the most hopeful of all the signs of progress the

country is making. In 1899, there were working 12,916 kilómetros of

railways, or 7.9 kilómetros for each 10,000 of the population. A

kilómetro equals 1.609 English mile. There is no part of the country now

isolated, either from the centre of government in Madrid, or from the

coast, and communication with Portugal, and, through France, with the

rest of Europe, is easy and constant. With this advance in means of

transit, the trade of the country has received an immense impulse, and

its raw and manufactured goods are now reaching all markets.

The rich mineral wealth of the country and its wonderful climate only

need enlightened enterprise to make Spain one of the richest and most

important commercial factors in the world's trade. The list of minerals

alone, raised from mines in working, amounts to twenty-two, ranging from

gold and silver, copper, tin, zinc, quick-silver, salt, coal, etc., to

cobalt and antimony; and 8,313,218 tons of minerals of all these

twenty-two classes were raised in 1882 against 1,201,054 in 1862. The

value of mines in 1880 was represented by one hundred and eleven

millions of pesetas (francs), but in 1898 by three hundred and nineteen

millions (pesetas). The value of imports in 1882 was 816,666,901

pesetas, and of exports 765,376,087 pesetas. In 1899, imports were

1,045,391,983, and exports 864,367,885. But this is taking exactly the

period covered by the war with America; a fairer estimate of exports is

that of 1897, which stood at 1,074,883,372. No statement has been

published since 1899, but intermediate statistics show the trade of the

country to be advancing rapidly.

To return, however, to Spanish industries. In late years large

smelting-works have been opened in Spain, with Spanish capital and

management, while at Bilbao are large iron-works for the manufacture of

steel rails. There are splendid deposits of iron in the country, and as

the duty on foreign rails entering Spain is _£3 4s._ per ton, it is

probable that the near future will see the country free from the

necessity of importing manufactured iron, or, in fact, metal of any

kind. A Catalan company has established important works for reducing the

sulphur of the rich mines near Lorca, and confidently expects to produce

some thirty thousand tons of sulphur per annum. The rich silver mines of

the Sierra Almagrera are almost wholly in native hands, and have already

yielded large fortunes to the owners. With the present improved

transport and shipping facilities in every part of the country, it is

probable that the valuable mines scattered all over the Peninsula will

be thoroughly worked, to the advance of commercial and industrial

interests over the entire country.

While the seaboard provinces are rich in fisheries, as well as in mines,

in the south the country is able to grow rice, sugar-cane, maize,

raisins, as well as wheat, olives, oranges, grapes, dates, bananas,

pine-apples, and almost all kinds of tropical fruits. The cultivation of

all varieties of fruit and vegetables, and their careful gathering and

packing have become the object of many large companies and private

individuals. Dates, bananas, grapes, plums, tomatoes, melons, as well as

asparagus and other early vegetables, are now being shipped to foreign

markets as regular articles of trade, in a condition which insures a

rapid and increasing sale. The exportation of fruit has doubled within

the last few years. The production of cane sugar in 1899 was thirty-one

thousand tons, or exactly three times the amount of that produced in

1889. The exportation of wine, which in 1894 was two millions of

milelitros, was in 1898 nearly five millions, and it is daily increasing

(one gallon English measure equals about four and one half litros).

Spain has always had excellent wines unknown to other countries, besides

that which is manufactured into what we know as "sherry"; but many of

them were so carelessly made as to be unfit for transit abroad. The

attention of wine-growers has, however, been steadily turned to this

subject during the last twenty years; greater care has been taken in the

production; the best methods have been ascertained and followed, and it

is possible now to obtain undoctored Spanish wines which perfectly bear

the carriage in cask without injury; and, to meet a direct sale to the

customer, small barrels containing about twelve gallons are shipped

from Tarragona and other ports to England.

One of the most hopeful signs of the economic awakening of the country

is the establishment of the _Boletin de la Cámara de Comercio de España

en la Gran Bretáña_, published each month in London.

In this little commercial circular a review is given of the commerce and

industry of all nations during the month; all fluctuations are noted,

extracts from foreign statistics or money articles given, suggestions

made for the opening up of Spanish commerce, and the introduction of her

manufactures into this and other countries. Speaking on the question of

the introduction of pure Spanish wines into England, a recent writer in

the _Boletin_ remarks that English workmen are thirsty animals, that

they like a big drink, but they are not really desirous of becoming

intoxicated by it. In fact, they would most of them prefer to be able to

drink more without bad effects. The writer goes on to say that if the

English workman could obtain pure wine that would cost no more than his

customary beer, and would not make him intoxicated, and if Spanish light

wines--which he says could be sold in England for less than good

beer--were offered in tempting-looking taverns and under pleasant

conditions, he believes that a really enormous trade would be the

result, to the benefit of both nations. The suggestion is, at least, an

interesting one, and though the scheme would certainly not benefit the

habitual drunkard, who becomes enamoured of his own debauchery, it

might be very welcome to many of the working people, who, as "our

neighbour" quaintly remarks, like a big drink, but do not necessarily

wish to become intoxicated.

In this connection, it may be interesting to know that the small

twelve-gallon casks of red wine, resembling Burgundy rather than claret,

but less heavy than the Australian wines, and forming a delicious drink

with water, are delivered at one's own door carriage free for a price

which works out, including duty, at _8-1/2d._ the ordinary bottle, or

_1s. 2d._ the flagon, such as the Australian wine is sold in. This is,

in fact, cheaper than good stout or ale.

Spain has always been celebrated for two special manufactures--her silk

and woollen goods; but for very many years these have been almost

unknown beyond her own boundaries. In the time of the Moors her silken

goods had a world-wide fame; and the silk-worm has been cultivated there

probably from the earliest days, when it was surreptitiously introduced

into Europe. Groves of mulberry trees were grown especially for

sericulture in the irrigated provinces of the South, the care of the

insect being undertaken by the women, while the men were employed on

tasks more suitable to their strength. Native-grown spun and woven silk

forms such an important part in the national costumes of the people that

it has attained to great perfection without attracting much foreign

notice. The silk petticoats of the women, the velvet jackets and trunk

hose of the men, the beautiful silk and woollen _mantas_, with their

deep fringes of silken or woollen balls; the _madroños_, or silk tufts

and balls, used as decorations for the Andalusian or the gypsy hats, not

to mention the beautifully soft and pure silks of Barcelona, or the silk

laces made in such perfection in many parts of the country,--all these

are objects of merchandise only needing to be known, to occasion a large

demand, especially in these days when the French invention of weighted

dyes floods the English market with something that has the outward

appearance of silk, but which does not even wait for wear to disclose

its real nature, but rots into holes on the drapers' shelves, and

would-be smart young women of slender purses walk about in what has been

well called "tin attire," in the manufacture of which the silk-worm has

had only the slenderest interest.

The blankets and rugs of Palencia have been known to some few English

people for many years, owing to their extreme lightness, great warmth,

and literally unending wear; but it is only within the last very few

years that they can be said to have had any market at all in England,

and now they are called "Pyrenean" rather than Spanish goods. One of the

suggestions of the little commercial circular already referred to is

that Spaniards should open depots or special agencies all over England

for the sale of their woollen goods, after the manner of the Jaeger

Company.

The flocks of merino sheep to be seen on the wooded slopes of the

Pyrenees, and all over Estremadura, following their shepherd after the

manner with which Old Testament history makes us familiar, are said to

be direct descendants of the old Arabian flocks, and certainly the

appearance of one of these impassive-looking shepherds leading his flock

to "green pastures, and beside the still waters," takes one back in the

world's history in a way that few other things do. The flock know the

voice of their shepherd, and follow him unquestioningly wheresoever he

goes; there is no driving, no hurrying; and the same may be said of the

pigs, which form such an important item in the social economy of a

Spanish peasant's home.

Staying once at Castellon de la Plana, in Valencia, my delight was to

watch the pig-herd and his troop. Early in the morning, at a fixed hour,

he issued from his house in one of the small alleys, staff in hand, and

with a curious kind of horn or whistle. This he blew as he walked along,

from time to time, without turning his head, in that strange trance of

passivity which distinguishes the Valencian peasant. Out from dark

corners, narrow passages, mud hovels on all sides, came tearing along

little pigs, big pigs, dark, light, fat, thin pigs,--pigs of every

description,--and joined the procession headed by this sombre-looking

herdsman, with his long stick and his blue-and-white striped _manta_

thrown over his shoulder. By the time he had reached the end of the

village he had a large herd following him. Then the whole party slowly

disappeared in the distance, under the groves of cork-trees or up the

mountain paths. The evening performance was more amusing still. Just

about sundown the stately herdsman again appeared with his motley

following. He took no manner of notice of them. He stalked majestically

towards his own particular hovel, and at each corner of a lane or group

of cottages the pigs said "Good night" to each other by a kick-up of

their heels and a whisk of their curly little tails, and scampered off

home by themselves, until, at the end of the village, only one solitary

pig was following his leader--probably they shared one home between

them. It seemed a peaceful, if not an absolutely happy, life!

One would expect a country with such a climate, or rather with so many

climates, as Spain, to make a great feature of agriculture. It can at

once produce wheat of the very finest quality, wine, oil, rice, sugar,

and every kind of fruit and vegetable that is known; and it ought to be

able to support a large agricultural population in comfort, and export

largely. Taking into account, also, the rich mineral wealth, which

should make her independent of imports of this nature, it is sad to see

that in past years, even so late as 1882, wheat and flour, coal and

coke, iron and tools figure amongst her imports--the first two in very

large proportions. Although the vast plains of Estremadura and Castile

produce the finest wheat known to commerce, the quantity, owing to the

want of water, is so small in relation to the acreage under cultivation,

that it does not suffice for home consumption, except in very favourable

years; while the utilisation of the magnificent rivers, which now roll

their waters uselessly to the sea, would make the land what it once was

when the thrifty Moor held it--a thickly populated and flourishing

grain-producing district. In place of the wandering flocks of sheep and

pigs gaining a precarious existence on the herbage left alive by the

blistering sun on an arid soil, there should be smiling homesteads and

blooming gardens everywhere, trees and grateful shade where now the

ground, between the rainy seasons, becomes all of one dusty, half-burnt

colour, reminding one more of the "back of a mangy camel," as it has

been described, than of a country that has once been fruitful and

productive.

The late General Concha, Marqués del Duero, was the originator of

sugar-cane cultivation. He spent a large portion of his private fortune

in establishing what bids fair to be one of the most productive

industries of his country. But, like most pioneers of progress, he

reaped no benefit himself. His fine estates near Malaga, with their

productive cane-farms, passed into other hands before he had reaped the

reward of his patriotic endeavours. For a long time the cheap,

bounty-fed beet sugars of Germany, which never approach beyond being an

imitation of real sugar--as every housewife can testify who has tried to

make jam with them--were able to undersell the produce of the cane; but

the latest statistics show that this industry is now making steady

progress, the production of 1899 being thirty-one thousand tons, or

exactly three times that of 1899. _À propos_ of the difference between

cane and beet sugars for all domestic purposes, and the superior

cheapness of the more costly article, it is satisfactory to note that in

England the working classes, through their own co-operative societies,

insist on being supplied with the former, knowing by experimental proof

its immense superiority; and one may hope that their wisdom may spread

into households where the servants pull the wires, and care nothing

about economy.

Looking at the ordinary map of Spain, it appears to be ridiculous to say

that the greater part of the country is in want of water. Although it is

intersected by three large ranges of mountains beyond the Pyrenees, and

innumerable others of smaller dimensions, thus making a great proportion

of the country impossible for agriculture, it is rich in magnificent

rivers and in smaller ones, all of which are allowed to run to waste in

many parts of the country, while even a small portion of their waters,

artificially dammed and utilised for irrigation, if only of the lands

lying on each side of them, would mean wealth and prosperity and an

abounding population where now the "everlasting sun" pours its rays over

barren wastes. Moreover, by the growth of the wood, which once covered

the plains and has been cut down, little by little, until the whole

surface of the land was changed, in process of time the climate would

become less dry, and vegetation more rapid and easy.

Ever since the expulsion of the Moors from Castile and Estremadura, the

land has been allowed gradually to go almost out of cultivation for want

of water, the wholesale devastation of forests, in combination with the

lapse of all irrigation, acting as a constantly accelerating cause for

the arid and unproductive condition of the once genial soil. Irrigation

has been the crying want of Spain for generations past; but even now the

Government scarcely seems to have awakened to its necessity. Perhaps,

however, the Spaniard who goes on his way, never troubling to listen to

the opinion or advice of his neighbour, has not, after all, been so

wanting in common sense as some of the more energetic of his critics

have thought. In spite of all the changes and disasters of successive

Governments, a steady and rapid advance has been made in providing means

of transport and shipping, by the construction of railways to every part

of the country, the making and keeping in condition of admirable

highways, and the building of breakwaters and quays in many of the

seaports, so that now the output of the mines and produce of all kinds

can find market within the country, or be shipped abroad freely.

[Illustration: A WEDDING PARTY IN ESTREMADURA]

If the money no longer being expended in railways and docks were now

devoted to irrigation wherever it is needed, a rapid change would become

apparent over the whole face of the country, and the population would

increase in proportion as the land would bear it. Irrigation works have

been more than once undertaken by the aid of foreign money, and under

the charge of foreign engineers; but the people themselves--the

landowners and peasant proprietors--were not ripe for it, and, alas!

some of the canals which would have turned whole valleys into gardens

have been allowed to go to ruin, or to become actually obliterated,

while the scanty crops are raised once in two or three years from the

same soil, which will yield three crops in one year by the help of

water. Difficulties arose about the sale of the water--a prolific cause

of dispute even in the old irrigated districts--and the people said:

"What do we want with water, except what comes from heaven? If the

Virgin thinks we want water, she sends it." Fitting result of the

teaching of the Church for so many years, with the example ever held up

for admiration of the patron saint, Isidro, who knelt all day at his

prayers, and left the tilling of his fields to the angels! It would seem

that these ministers of grace are not good husbandmen, since the land

became the arid waste it now is, while successive Isidros have been

engaged in religious duties, which they were taught were all that was

necessary.

As an example of what irrigation means in the sunlit fields of Spain, an

acre of irrigable land in Valencia or Murcia sells for prices varying

from £150 to £400, according to its quality or its situation, while land

not irrigable only fetches sums varying from £7 to £20. In Castile, land

would not in any case fetch so high a price as that which has been under

irrigated cultivation for centuries past; but in any district the value

of dry land is never more than a twelfth of what it is when irrigable.

In truth, however, there is more than irrigation needed to bring the

lands of Castile and Estremadura into profitable cultivation, and it

cannot be done without the expenditure of large sums of money at the

outset in manures, and good implements in place of the obsolete old

implements with which the ground is now scratched rather than ploughed.

Given good capital and intelligent farming, as in the irrigated

districts, and two, and even three, crops a year can be raised in

unceasing succession; lucern gives from ten to twelve cuttings in one

year, fifteen days being sufficient for the growth of a new crop.

I have pointed out what one day's sun can do in raising grass seed in

Madrid, which stands on the highest point of the elevated table-land

occupying the centre of Spain. Seeing that the principal item of the

revenue is derived from the land tax, and that it is calculated on the

value of the land, it would appear to be the first interest of an

enlightened government to foster irrigation in every possible way, and

encourage agriculture and the planting of trees.

Although the people of Spain have hated their more immediate neighbours

with an exceeding bitter hatred,--as, indeed, they had good cause to do

in the past,--her public men have had a strange fancy for importing or

imitating French customs. One that militates more than anything else

against agricultural prosperity is the law of inheritance, copied from

the French. By this the State divides an estate amongst the heirs

without any reference to the wishes of the proprietor at his death. Not

only are all large estates broken up and practically dissipated, so that

it is to no one's interest to improve his property or spend money on it,

but the small farms of the peasant proprietor are broken into smaller

fragments in the same way; and it is no uncommon thing to see a field of

a few acres divided into six or eight furrows, none of them enough to

support one man. While he has to go off seeking work where he can get

it, his strip of land clings to him like a curse, for he must lose his

work if he would try to cultivate it, and at his death it will again be

subdivided, until at last there is nothing left to share. Meanwhile, the

land, which is not enough to be of any value to anyone, has been allowed

to go almost out of cultivation; or if it bear anything at all, it is

weeds.

Until some remedy be found for this enervating system, it would seem as

if Spanish agriculture is doomed to remain in its present unsatisfactory

condition over a great part of the kingdom. The improvement of

agriculture is practically a question of private enterprise, and under

the existing law of inheritance neither enterprise nor interest can be

expected of the small proprietor; nor indeed of the large landowner, who

knows that, whatever he may do to improve his estate, it is doomed to be

cut to pieces and divided amongst his next of kin until it is eventually

extinguished. Whether, in some future time, an enlightened scheme of

co-operation could work the arid lands into cultivation again, if the

Government would give the necessary aid in the form of irrigation,

remains among the unanswered riddles of the future. Prophecy in Spain is

never possible; it is always the unexpected which happens in that

country of sharp contradictions. All one can do is to note past progress

and the drift of the present current, which, whatever government is at

the nominal head of affairs, seems to be towards widespread--in fact,

quite general--advance both in knowledge and industrial activity.

The greatest hope for the future lies in the fact that it is no longer

foreign money or foreign labour that is working for the good of the

country; the impulse is from within, and every penny of capital that is

sunk in public works, manufactures, or industrial enterprise, is so much

invested in a settled state of affairs. When the individual has

everything to lose by revolutionary changes, when the commerce of the

country is becoming too important to be allowed to be upset easily, and

it is everybody's interest to support and increase it, the main body of

the people are ranged on the side of peace and progress. They have had

enough of civil war, enough of tyranny; they have achieved freedom, and

want nothing so much as to taste of it in quietness.

To revert for a moment to the special manufactures of the country, it

appears to be the wise policy of the powers that be in Spain to-day to

encourage, by every possible means, native industries and the

development of the rich resources of the country. If it be only in the

superior education required of the workmen, and the drawing out of their

natural talents, the movement is an immense gain to the people, so long

purposely kept in a condition of slothful ignorance.

Besides the woollen manufactures of Palencia, Lorca, Jerez, Barcelona,

Valencia, and other places, are many cloth factories in Cataluña, as

well as others for the production of silk fabrics, lace, and very

high-class embroideries, for which last Spain has long been famous, but

which have hitherto been little known beyond her own frontiers. In

artistic crafts may be named the pottery works of Pickman, Mesaque,

Gomez, and others in Seville, where magnificent reproductions of Moorish

and Hespaño-Moresque tiles and pottery are being turned out; there are

also factories for this class of goods in Valencia, Barcelona, Segovia,

Talevera, and many other places. Ornamental iron and damascene work

holds the high reputation which Spain has never lost, but the output is

very largely increased. Gold and silver inlaid on iron, iron inlaid on

copper and silver, are some of the forms of this beautiful work. That

executed in Madrid differs from that of Toledo, Eibar, and other centres

of the craft. The iron gate-work executed in Madrid and Barcelona is

very hard to beat, and the casting of bronzes is carried out with every

modern improvement. The wood-carvers of Spain have always been famous,

and the craft appears to be in no danger of falling behind its old

reputation, much beautiful decorative work of this description being

produced for modern needs. The _Circulo de Artes_ holds an exhibition in

Madrid every other year, and in the intervening years the Government has

one, in the large permanent buildings erected for the purpose at the end

of the Fuente Castellana. The manufacture of artistic furniture and

other connected industries are encouraged also by a bi-yearly exhibition

in Madrid, where prizes and commendations are given. The chief centres

of artistic furniture-making are Madrid, Barcelona, Granada, and

Zaragoza. Exhibitions of arts and crafts and of all kinds of industries

and manufactures are also held, at intervals, in the principal towns all

over the country. An interesting exhibition of Spanish and South

American productions was held in 1901 in Bilbao with great success.

Nor ought we to forget the industry for which Seville is famed. The

manufacture of tobacco is almost wholly in the hands of women, and is a

very important industry, thousands being employed in the large factories

making up cigars, cigarettes, and preparing and packing the finer kinds

of tobacco. The cigar-girl of Seville is a well-known type, almost as

much dreaded by the authorities as admired by her own class. The women

are mostly young, and often attractive, extremely pronounced both in

dress and manners, and are quite a power to be reckoned with when they

choose to assert themselves. On more than one occasion they have taken

up some cause _en masse_, and have gathered in thousands, determined to

have their way.

When this happens, the powers that be are reduced to great straits.

Neither the _Guardia Civile_ nor the military can be relied on to use

force, and unless the army of irate women can be persuaded to retire

from the contest it is probable that, relying with perfect confidence on

the privileges of their sex, they will gain what they consider their

rights--at all events their will.

No country in the world is more suited for manufactures and exports than

Spain. She has an unexampled seaboard, and many magnificent natural

harbours, and now an easy approach through Portugal to the sea, even if

her own ports should be insufficient. Common commercial interests are

likely to bring that Iberian kingdom or commonwealth to pass which has

been the dream of some of her politicians, and is still cherished in

parts of both countries. The northern ports in the Atlantic are,

perhaps, the most important; that of Bilbao, a most unpromising one by

nature, has grown out of all recognition since the close of the Carlist

war. The railway to the iron mines was already in course of construction

when the war broke out; everything was stopped, the workmen carried off

willy-nilly to join the marauding bands of the Pretender, the

town--which boasts that it has never been taken, although twice almost

demolished during the two insane civil wars--was wrecked and well-nigh

ruined, its industries destroyed, its commerce at an end. With peace and

quietness came one of the most extraordinary revivals of modern times:

the population increased at a marvellous rate, the new town sprang into

existence on the left bank of the Nerrion, the river was deepened, the

bar, which used to block almost all entrance, practically removed,

extensive dock-works carried out; so that in ten years the shipment of

ore from the port sprang up from four hundred and twenty-five thousand

tons to 3,737,176, and is increasing daily. Bilbao, with its five

railway stations, its electric tramways, and its population of

sixty-six thousand, has become the first and most important shipping

outlet of Spain. Nor have the southern ports of Huelva and Seville been

much behind it in their rapid progress; while on the Mediterranean coast

are Malaga, Almería, Aguilas, Cartagena, Valencia, and Tarragona--all

vying with the older, and once singular, centre of commercial and

industrial activity, Barcelona. The northwest seaboard has been hitherto

somewhat behind the movement, owing to a less complete railway

communication with the rest of the country; now that this is no more a

reproach, the fine natural harbours of Rivadeo, Vivero, Carril,

Pontevedra, Vigo, and Coruña, are gradually following suit, some with

more vigour than others. The little land-locked harbour of Pasages has

for some years been rapidly rising to the rank of a first-class shipping

port.

It is satisfactory to note, from the latest statistics, that in 1899

Spain possessed a total of one thousand and thirty-five merchant ships,

that in the same year she bought from England alone sixty-seven, and

that 17,419 ships, carrying 11,857,674 tons of exports, left Spanish

ports for foreign markets. Although no official information has been

published since that year, the increase since the close of the war has

been in very much greater ratio. From the same records we find that

during the year 1899 no fewer than sixty-nine large companies were

formed, of which twenty-three were for shipping, eight were new sugar

factories, seven banks, seven mining, six electric, and ten others

related either to manufacture or commerce, the total capital of these

new enterprises representing one hundred and twenty-eight millions of

pesetas.

In contrast to Portugal, the _caminos reales_, or high-roads, of Spain

have long been very good. It is true that where these State roads do not

exist, the unadulterated _arroyo_ serves as a country road, or a mere

track across the fields made by carts and foot-passengers, and when an

obstruction occurs in the form of too deep a hole to be got through, the

track takes a turn outside it, and returns to the direct line as soon as

circumstances permit. An _arroyo_ is given in the dictionary as "a

rivulet"; it is, in fact, generally a rushing torrent during the rains,

eating its way through the land, and laying down a smooth, deep layer of

sand, or even soil, between high banks. Immediately after the rainy

season this affords a firm, good road for a time, but eventually it

becomes ploughed into impassable ruts by the wheels of the carts, unless

trampled hard by the feet of passing flocks.

Government undertakes the cost and the super-intendence of the _caminos

reales_, and does it well. The corps of engineers is modelled on French

lines, and is a department of the Ministry of Public Works. The course

of study is extremely severe, and the examinations are strict and

searching. When a candidate passes, he is appointed assistant-engineer

by the Ministry, and he rises in his profession solely by seniority.

Every province has its engineer-in-chief, with his staff of assistants;

the superintendents of harbours, railways, and other public works are

specially appointed from qualified engineers. In addition to the care of

the construction and repair of all highways and Government works in his

district, the engineer-in-chief has the overlooking of all works which,

although they may be the result of private enterprise and private

capital, are authorised or carried out under Government concession.

These concessions are only granted after the project has been submitted

to, and approved by, the Ministry of Public Works, and it passes under

the supervision of the engineer of the provinces. In old days, if not

now, there was a good deal of "the itching palm" about the officials,

not excluding the Minister himself, through whose hands the granting of

concessions passed, even the wives coming in for handsome presents and

"considerations," without which events had a knack of not moving; and

when the army of _Empleados_ became _Cesantes_, this work, of course,

began all over again. The railway engineers form a separate body, the

country being mapped out into arbitrary divisions, each under the charge

of one engineer-in-chief, with a large body of assistants.

The telegraph system of Spain has now for many years been in a good

condition. The construction of the lines dates from about 1862, when

only five miles were in operation. There is now probably not a village

in the whole country that does not possess its telegraph office, and in

all the important towns this is kept open all night. A peseta for twenty

words, including the address, is the uniform charge, every additional

word being ten centimos. The telegraphs were established by the

Government, and are under its control. All railway lines of public

service, and those which receive a subvention, must provide two wires

for Government use. Telephones are now in use in all large centres, and

electric lighting and traction are far more widely used than in England.

Spanish Life in Town and Country · 第 10 / 19 章