WE MAKE A START
"Tuesday, February 26th. At last the day has arrived, the great day,
when the journey is to commence. The week has passed in untiring work
to get everything ready. We should have started on the 20th, but it
has been postponed from day to day; there was always something still
to do. My head has been full night and day, with all that was to be
done and that must not be forgotten. Oh, this unceasing mental strain,
which does not allow a minute's respite in which to throw off the
responsibility, to give loose rein to the thoughts, and let the dreams
have full sway! The nerves are in a state of tension from the moment
of awaking in the morning till the eyes close late at night. Ah! how
well I know this state, which I have experienced each time I have been
about to set out and retreat was to be cut off--never, I believe,
more effectually than now! The last few nights I did not get to bed
before half-past three or half-past four o'clock in the morning. It is
not only what we ought to take with us that has to be taken care of,
but we have to leave the vessel; its command and responsibility have
to be placed in other hands, and care must be taken that nothing is
forgotten in the way of instructions to the men who remain, as the
scientific observations will have to be continued on the same lines
as they have been carried on hitherto, and other observations of all
kinds will have to be made, etc., etc."
The last night we were to spend on board the Fram eventually arrived,
and we had a farewell party. In a strange, sad way, reminiscences were
revived of all that had befallen us here on board, mingled with hope
and trust in what the future would bring. I remained up till far into
the night; letters and remembrances had to be sent to those at home,
in case the unforeseen should happen. Among the last things I wrote
were the following instructions to Sverdrup, in which I handed over
to him the command of the expedition:
"Captain Otto Sverdrup, Commander of the Fram:
"As I am now leaving the Fram, accompanied by Johansen, to undertake
a journey northward--if possible, to the Pole--and from there to
Spitzbergen, most likely via Franz Josef Land, I make over to you
the command of the remaining part of the expedition. From the day
I leave the Fram, all the authority which hitherto was vested in me
shall devolve upon you to an equal extent, and the others will have to
render absolute obedience to you, or to whomsoever you may depute as
their leader. I consider it superfluous to give any orders about what
is to be done under various contingencies, even if it were possible
to give any. I am certain you will know best yourself what ought to
be done in any emergency, and I therefore consider that I may with
confidence leave the Fram.
"The chief aim of the expedition is to push through the unknown
Polar Sea from the region around the New Siberian Islands, north of
Franz Josef Land, and onward to the Atlantic Ocean, near Spitzbergen
or Greenland. The most essential part of this task, I consider,
we have already accomplished; the remainder will be achieved as the
expedition gets farther west. In order to make the expedition still
more fruitful of results, I am making an attempt to push farther up
north with the dogs. Your task will then be to convey home, in the
safest manner possible, the human lives now confided to your care,
and not to expose them to any unnecessary danger, either out of
regard for the ship or cargo, or for the scientific outcome of the
expedition. No one can tell how long it may take before the Fram
drifts out into open water. You have provisions for several years to
come; if for any unknown reason it should take too long, or if the
crew should begin to suffer in health, or if from other reasons you
should think it best to abandon the vessel, it should unquestionably
be done. As to the time of the year when this should be done, and
the route to be chosen, you yourself will be best able to judge. If
it should be necessary, I consider Franz Josef Land and Spitzbergen
favorable lands to make for. If search is made for the expedition
after the arrival home of Johansen and myself, it will be made there
first. Wherever you come to land, you should, as often as you can,
erect conspicuous beacons on promontories and projecting headlands,
and place within the beacons a short report of what has occurred,
and whither you are going. In order to distinguish these beacons from
others, a small beacon should be erected 4 metres from the larger
one in the direction of the magnetic North Pole. The question as
to what outfit would be most advantageous in case the Fram should
have to be abandoned is one which we have so frequently discussed
that I consider it superfluous to dwell on it here. I know that you
will take care that the requisite number of kayaks for all the men,
sledges, snow-shoes, 'truger,' and other articles of outfit are
put in complete order as soon as possible, and kept in readiness,
so that such a journey home over the ice could be undertaken with
the greatest possible ease. Elsewhere I give you directions as to
the provisions which I consider most suitable for such a journey,
and the quantity necessary for each man.
"I also know that you will hold everything in readiness to abandon the
Fram in the shortest possible time in the event of her suffering sudden
damage, whether through fire or ice-pressure. If the ice permits it,
I consider it advisable that a depot, with sufficient provisions,
etc., should be established at a safe place on the ice, such as we
have lately had. All necessaries which cannot be kept on the ice
ought to be so placed on board that they are easy to get at under
any circumstances. As you are aware, all the provisions now in the
depot are concentrated foods for sledging journeys only; but as it may
happen that you will have to remain inactive for a time before going
farther, it would be highly desirable to save as much tinned meat,
fish, and vegetables as possible; should troublous times come then,
I should consider it advisable to have a supply of these articles
ready on the ice.
"Should the Fram while drifting be carried far to the north of
Spitzbergen, and get over into the current under the east coast of
Greenland, many possibilities may be imagined which it is not easy to
form an opinion on now; but should you be obliged to abandon the Fram
and make for the land, it would be best for you to erect beacons there,
as stated above (with particulars as to whither you are going, etc.),
as search might possibly be made there for the expedition. Whether in
that case you ought to make for Iceland (which is the nearest land,
and where you should be able to get in the early part of summer,
if following the edge of the ice), or for the Danish colonies west
of Cape Farewell, you will be best able to judge on considering all
the circumstances.
"As regards what you ought to take with you in the event of abandoning
the Fram, besides the necessary provisions, I may mention weapons,
ammunition, and equipment, all scientific and other journals and
observations, all scientific collections that are not too heavy, or,
if too heavy, small samples thereof; photographs, preferably the
original plates (or films); or should these prove too heavy, then
prints taken from them; also the 'Aderman' aerometer, with which most
of the observations on the specific gravity of sea-water are taken;
as well as, of course, all journals and memoranda which are of any
interest. I leave behind some diaries and letters, which I would
request you to take special care of and deliver to Eva if I should
not return home, or if, contrary to all expectation, you should return
home before us.
"Hansen and Blessing will, as you know, attend to the various
scientific expeditions and to the collecting of specimens. You yourself
will attend to the soundings, and see that they are taken as frequently
as possible and as the condition of the line permits. I should consider
at least once in every 60 miles covered to be extremely desirable;
if it can be done oftener so much the better. Should the depth become
less than now and more variable, it goes without saying that soundings
should be taken more frequently.
"As the crew was small before, and will now be still further reduced
by two men, more work will probably fall to each man's lot; but I know
that, whenever you can, you will spare men to assist in the scientific
observations, and make them as complete as possible. Please also see
that every tenth day (the first, tenth, and twentieth of every month)
the ice is bored through, and the thickness measured, in the same
way as has been done hitherto. Henriksen has for the most part made
these borings, and is a trustworthy man for this work.
"In conclusion, I wish all possible success to you, and to those
for whom you are now responsible, and may we meet again in Norway,
whether it be on board of this vessel or without her.
"Yours affectionately,
"Fridtjof Nansen.
"On board the Fram,
"February 25, 1895."
"Now at last the brain was to get some rest, and the work for the
legs and arms to commence. Everything was got ready for the start this
morning. Five of our comrades, Sverdrup, Hansen, Blessing, Henriksen,
and Mogstad, were to see us off on our way, bringing a sledge and a
tent with them. The four sledges were got ready, the dogs harnessed
to them, lunch, with a bottle of malt extract per man, was taken
just before starting, and then we bade the last hearty farewell to
those left behind. We were off into the drifting snow. I myself took
the lead with 'Kvik' as leading dog, in the first sledge, and then
sledge after sledge followed amid cheers, accompanied by the cracking
of whips and the barking of dogs. At the same time a salute was fired
from the quarter-deck, shot after shot, into the whirling drift. The
sledges moved heavily forward; it was slow travelling uphill, and
they came to a dead stop where the ascent was too steep, and we all
had to help them along--one man alone could not do it; but over level
ground we flew along like a whirlwind, and those on snow-shoes found it
difficult enough to keep pace with the sledges. I had to strike out as
best I could when they came up to me to avoid getting my legs entangled
in the line. A man is beckoning with his staff far in the rear. It is
Mogstad, who comes tearing along and shouting that three 'flöitstokker'
[4] (crossbars) had been torn off a sledge in driving. The sledge,
with its heavy load, had lurched forward over an upright piece of ice,
which struck the crossbars, breaking all three of them, one after the
other; one or two of the perpendicular supports of the runners were
also smashed. There was nothing for it but to return to the ship to
get it repaired and have the sledges made stronger. Such a thing ought
not to happen again. During the return one of the sledges lurched
up against another, and a cane in the bow snapped. The bows would,
therefore, also have to be made stronger. [5]
"The sledges have again been unloaded and brought on board in order
that this may be done, and here we are again to-night. I am glad,
however, that this happened when it did; it would have been worse
to have had such an experience a few days later. I will now take
six sledges instead of four, so that the load on each may be less,
and so that it will be easier to lift them over the irregularities
of the ground. I shall also have a broad board fitted lengthwise to
the sledge, underneath the crossbars, so as to protect them against
projecting pieces of ice. As a great deal of time is saved in the
end by doing such things thoroughly before starting, we shall not be
ready to start before the day after to-morrow. It seemed strange to
be on board again after having said good-bye, as I thought, forever,
to these surroundings. When I came up on the after-deck, I found the
guns lying there in the snow, one of them turned over on its back,
the other had recoiled a long way aft, when saluting us; from the
mizzen-top the red and black flag was still waving.
"I am in wonderfully high spirits, and feel confident of success;
the sledges seemed to glide so easily, although carrying 200 pounds
more than was originally intended (about 2200 pounds altogether),
and everything looks very promising. We shall have to wait a couple
of days, but as we are having a southeasterly wind all day long we
are no doubt getting on towards the north, all the same. Yesterday
we were 83° 47'; to-day I suppose we are at least 83° 50'."
At last, on Thursday, February 28th, we started again with our six
sledges. Sverdrup, Hansen, Blessing, Henriksen, and Mogstad saw us
off. When we started, most of the others also accompanied us some
distance. We soon found that the dogs did not draw as well as I had
expected, and I came to the conclusion that with this load we should
get on too slowly. We had not proceeded far from the ship before
I decided to leave behind some of the sacks with provisions for the
dogs, and these were later on taken back on board by the others.
At 4 o'clock in the afternoon, when we stopped, our odometer [6]
showed that we had gone about 4 miles from the Fram. We had a pleasant
evening in the tent, together with our friends who were going back the
next day. To my surprise a punch-bowl was prepared, and toasts were
proposed for those who were starting and those who remained behind. It
was not until 11 o'clock that we crept into our sleeping-bags.
There were illuminations in our honor that night on board the
Fram. The electric arc lamp was hoisted on the maintop, and the
electric light for the first time shone forth over the ice masses of
the Polar Sea. Torches had also been lit, and bonfires of oakum-ends
and other combustibles were burning on several floes around the Fram
and making a brilliant show. Sverdrup had, by-the-way, given orders
that the electric light or a lantern should be hoisted on the maintop
every night until he and the others had returned, for fear they might
lose their way if the tracks should be obliterated by bad weather. It
would then be very difficult to find the ship; but such a light can
be seen a long distance over these plains, where by merely standing
on a hummock one can easily get a view for many miles round.
I was afraid that the dogs, if they got loose, would go back to
the Fram, and I therefore got two steel lines made, to which short
leashes were fastened a little distance apart, so that the dogs could
be secured to these lines between two sticks or sledges. In spite of
this, several of the dogs got loose; but, strange to say, they did
not leave us, but remained with their comrades and us. There was,
of course, a doleful howling round the tents the first night, and
they disturbed our sleep to some extent.
The next morning (Friday, March 1st) it took one of our comrades three
hours to make the coffee, being unaccustomed to the apparatus. We
then had a very nice breakfast together. Not before 11.30 A.M. did
we get under way. Our five comrades accompanied us for an hour or
two and then turned to get back to the Fram the same evening. "It
was certainly a most cheerful good-bye," says the diary, "but it is
always hard to part, even at 84°, and maybe there was a tearful eye
or two." The last thing Sverdrup asked me when sitting on his sledge,
just as we were about to part, was, if I thought I should go to the
South Pole when I got home; for if so, he hoped I would wait till he
arrived; and then he asked me to give his love to his wife and child.
And so we proceeded, Johansen and I, but it was slow work for us
alone with six sledges, which were impeded on their way by all sorts
of obstacles and inequalities. Besides this, the ice became rougher,
so that it was difficult to get on during the afternoon on account
of the darkness, the days being still very short and the sun was not
yet above the horizon. We therefore camped rather early.
"Wednesday, March 6th. We are again on board the Fram to make a
fresh start, for the third time, and then, I suppose, it will be in
earnest. On Saturday, March 2d, we proceeded with the six sledges after
I had been a trip to the northward and found it passable. Progress was
slow, and we had to do nearly six turns each, as the sledges stopped
everywhere and had to be helped along. I saw now too clearly that we
should never get on in this manner; a change would have to be made,
and I decided to camp in order to have a look at the ice northward
and consider the matter. Having tied up the dogs, I set out, while
Johansen was to feed the dogs and put up the tent. They were fed once
in every 24 hours, at night, when the day's march was done.
"I had not gone far when I came upon excellent spacious plains;
good progress could be made, and so far everything was all right;
but the load had to be diminished and the number of sledges
reduced. Undoubtedly, therefore, it would be best to return to the
Fram to make the necessary alterations on board, and get the sledges
we were to take with us further strengthened, so as to have perfect
confidence in their durability.
"We might, of course, have dragged along somehow towards the north
for a while, and the load would gradually have decreased; but it
would have been slow work, and before the load would be sufficiently
lightened the dogs would perhaps be worn out. It was cold for them at
night; we heard many of them howling most of the night. If, however,
we diminished the load, and consequently allowed a shorter time for
the journey, it would be preferable to wait, and not start till a
little later in the month, when we could make more out of the time,
as the days would be lighter and not so cold and the snow-surface
better. Having spent another night in the tent--into which it was
a hard job to get, dressed in a fur that was stiff with frost, and
then into a bag that was also hard frozen--I decided next morning
(Sunday, March 3d) to return to the Fram. I harnessed a double team
of dogs to one of the sledges, and off they went over pressure-ridges
and all other obstacles so rapidly that I could hardly keep up with
them. In a few hours I covered the same distance which had taken us
three days when we started out. The advantage of a lighter load was
only too apparent.
"As I approached the Fram I saw, to my surprise, the upper edge of
the sun above the ice in the south. It was the first time this year,
but I had not expected it as yet. It was the refraction caused by
the low temperature which made it visible so soon. The first news I
heard from those who came to meet me was that Hansen had the previous
afternoon taken an observation, which gave 84° 4' north latitude.
"It was undoubtedly very pleasant once more to stretch my limbs on the
sofa in the Fram's saloon, to quench my thirst in delicious lime-juice
with sugar, and again to dine in a civilized manner. In the afternoon
Hansen and Nordahl went back to Johansen with my team of dogs, to keep
him company overnight. When I left him it was understood that he was
to start on the return journey as best he could, until I came with
others to help him. The dogs lost no time, and the two men reached
Johansen's tent in an hour and twenty minutes. At night both they
and we had rejoicings in honor of the sun, and the 84th degree.
"The next morning three of us went off and fetched the sledges
back. Now, when we made for the ship, the dogs dragged much better,
and in a short time we should have been on board had it not been for a
long lane in the ice which we could see no end to, and which stopped
us. Finally we left the sledges and, together with the dogs, managed
to cross over on some loose pieces of ice and got on board. Yesterday
we twice tried to fetch the sledges, but there had evidently been
some movement in the lane, and the new ice was still so thin that we
dared not trust it. We have, however, to-day got them on board, and
we will now for the last time, it is to be hoped, prepare ourselves
for the journey. I will now plan out the journey so as to take the
shortest possible time, using light sledges and tearing along as fast
as legs and snowshoes will carry us. We shall be none the worse for
this delay, provided we do not meet too much pack-ice or too many
openings in the ice.
"I have weighed all the dogs and have come to the conclusion that
we can feed them on each other and keep going for about fifty days;
having, in addition to this, dog provisions for about thirty days,
we ought to be able to travel with dogs for eighty days, and in that
time it seems to me we should have arrived somewhere. And, besides,
we have provisions for ourselves for one hundred days. This will be
about 440 pounds on each sledge if we take three, and with nine dogs
per sledge we ought to manage it."
So here we were again, busy with preparations and improvements. In the
meantime the ice moved a little, broke up, and lanes were formed in
various directions. On March 8th I say: "The crack in the large floe
to starboard, formed while we were away, opened yesterday into a broad
lane, which we can see stretching with newly frozen ice towards the
horizon, both north and south. It is odd how that petroleum launch is
always in 'hot water' wherever it is. This crack formed underneath it,
so it was hanging with the stern over the water when they found it in
the morning. We have now decided to cut it up and use the elm-boards
for the sledge-runners. That will be the end of it.
"Wednesday, March 13th. 84° north latitude, 101° 55'
east longitude. The days have passed, working again at the
equipment. Everything is now in order. Three sledges are standing
ready out on the ice, properly strengthened in every way, with iron
fastenings between uprights and crossbars. These last-mentioned are
securely strengthened with extra top-pieces of ash, and protected
underneath by boards. This afternoon we tried the dogs with sledges
loaded, and they went as easily as could be, and to-morrow we start
again for the last time, full of courage and confidence and with the
sun up, in the assurance that we are going towards ever brighter days.
"To-night there has been a great farewell feast, with many hearty
speeches, and to-morrow we depart as early as possible, provided our
dissipation has not delayed us. I have to-night added the following
postscript to Sverdrup's instructions:
"'P.S.--In the foregoing instructions, which I wrote rather hurriedly
on the night of February 25th, I omitted to mention things that should
have been alluded to. I will restrict myself here to stating, further,
that should you sight unknown land, everything ought, of course, to be
done in order to ascertain and examine it, as far as circumstances will
permit. Should the Fram drift so near that you think it can be reached
without great risk, everything that can be done to explore the land
would be of the greatest interest. Every stone, every blade of grass,
lichen, or moss, every animal, from the largest to the smallest,
would be of great importance; photographs, and an exact description
should not be neglected; at the same time, it should be traversed to
the greatest possible extent, in order to ascertain its coast-line,
size, etc. All such things should, however, only be done, provided
they can be accomplished without danger. If the Fram is adrift in the
ice, it is clear that only short excursions should be made from her,
as the members of such expeditions might encounter great difficulties
in reaching the vessel again. Should the Fram remain stationary for
any time, such expeditions should still be undertaken only with great
discretion, and not be extended over any great length of time, as no
one can foresee when she may commence to drift again, and it would
be very undesirable for all concerned if the crew of the Fram were
to be still further reduced.
"'We have so often spoken together about the scientific researches,
that I do not consider it necessary to give any further suggestions
here. I am certain that you will do everything in your power to make
them as perfect as possible, so that the expedition may return with
as good results as the circumstances will permit. And now once again,
my wishes for all possible success, and may we meet again before long.
"'Your affectionate,
"'Fridtjof Nansen.
"'The Fram, March 13, 1895.'"
Before leaving the Fram for good I ought, perhaps, to give a short
account of the equipment we finally decided on as the most likely to
suit our purposes.
I have already mentioned the two kayaks that had been made during the
course of the winter, and that we required to have with us in order to
cross possible channels and pools, and also for use when we should come
to open sea. Instead of these kayaks, I had at first thought of taking
ready-made canvas boat-covers, and of using the sledges as frames to
stretch them over. By this means a craft perfectly capable of carrying
us over lanes and short bits of open sea could have been rigged up in
a very short space of time. I subsequently gave up this idea, however,
and decided on the kayak, a craft with which I was familiar, and which
I knew would render valuable assistance in several respects. Even if
we had been able to contrive a cover for the sledges in such a manner
that a boat could have been got ready in a short space of time, it
would not have been such quick work as simply launching a ready-made
kayak. Added to this, the craft would, necessarily, have been heavy
to row; and when it was a question of long distances in open water,
such as along the coasts of Franz Josef Land, or across thence to
Spitzbergen, much time would have been lost. One consideration indeed,
and that of some moment, was the saving in weight if the sledges were
made use of; but even this was not of so much importance as it seemed,
as the covers of both kinds of craft would have weighed about the
same, and what would have been saved in the weight of the frames was
not much, if one remembers that a whole kayak-frame only weighs about
16 pounds. Then, too, if kayaks were used, some weight would be saved
by being able to carry our provisions and other impedimenta in bags
of thin material, which could be stowed away in the kayaks, and the
latter lashed to the sledges. Our provisions would thus be protected
against all risk of attack by dogs, or of being cut by sharp pieces
of ice. The other alternative--the canvas cover--which would have
required fitting on and folding up again after being in the water,
would, necessarily, in the low temperatures we had to expect, have
become spoiled and leaky. Last, but not least, the kayak, with its
tightly covered deck, is a most efficient sea-boat, in which one can
get along in any kind of weather, and is also an admirable craft for
shooting and fishing purposes. The boat which one could have contrived
by the other expedient could with difficulty have been made any way
satisfactory in this respect.
I have also mentioned the sledges which I had made for this
expedition. They were of the same pattern as those built for the
Greenland one; somewhat resembling in shape the Norwegian "skikjelke,"
[7] which is a low hand-sledge on broad runners, similar to our
ordinary "ski." But instead of the broad, flat runners we used in
Greenland, I had the runners made in this case about the same in
width (3 1/6 inches), but somewhat convex underneath, like those
to be found on the "skikjelke" of Österdalen and elsewhere. These
convex runners proved to move very easily on the kind of country
which we had to travel over, and they enabled the long sledges
to be turned with ease, which was particularly convenient in the
drift-ice, where the many irregularities often necessitated a very
zigzag route. The runners were covered with a thin plate of German
silver, which, as it always keeps bright and smooth and does not rust,
answered its purpose well. As I mentioned before, there were thin,
loose, well-tarred guard-runners of a kind of maple (Acer platonides)
underneath the German-silver ones. The sledges were also prepared in
various other ways, which have been treated of before, for the heavy
loads they were to carry at the beginning. The result of this was that
they were somewhat heavier than I had intended at first; but in return
I had the satisfaction of their being fit for use during the whole
journey, and not once were we stopped or delayed by their breaking
down. This has hardly been the case with former sledge journeys.
I have referred several times to our clothes, and our trial-trips
in them. Although we had come to the conclusion that our wolfskin
garments were too warm for travelling in, we took them with us all
the same on our first trip, and wore them too, to a certain extent;
but we soon discovered that they were always too warm, and caused
undue perspiration. By absorbing all the moisture of the body they
became so heavy that they made an appreciable difference in the
weight of our loads, and on our return from our three days' absence
from the vessel were so wet that they had to be hung for a long time
over the saloon stove to dry. To this was added the experience that
when we took them off in the cold, after having worn them for a time,
they froze so stiff that it was difficult to get them on again. The
result of all this was that I was not very favorably disposed towards
them, and eventually made up my mind to keep to my woollen clothes,
which I thought would give free outlet to the perspiration. Johansen
followed my example. Our clothes then came to consist of about
the following: On the upper part of the body two woollen shirts
(Jaeger's); outside these I had a camel's-hair coat, and last of all
a thick, rough jersey. Instead of the jersey, Johansen wore what is
called on board ship an "anorak," of thick homespun, provided with
a hood, which he could pull forward in front of his face, and made
after an Eskimo pattern. On our legs we had, next our skin, woollen
drawers, and over these knickerbockers and loose gaiters of close
Norwegian homespun. To protect us from wind and fine-driven snow,
which, being of the nature of dust, forces itself into every pore of
a woollen fabric, we wore a suit which has been mentioned before,
made of a thin, close kind of cotton canvas, and consisting of an
upper garment to pull over the head, provided with a hood in Eskimo
fashion, and a lower one in the shape of a pair of wide overalls.
An important item in an outfit is the foot-gear. Instead of wearing
long stockings, I preferred to use loose stocking-legs and socks,
as these are easy to dry on one's chest when asleep at night. On a
journey of this kind, where one is continually travelling over snow
and in a low temperature, whether it be on "ski" or not, my experience
is that Finn shoes are, without doubt, the most satisfactory covering
for the feet in every way, but they must be made of the skin of the
hind-legs of the reindeer buck. They are warm and strong, they are
always flexible, and are easy to put on and take off. They require
careful management, however, if they are not to be spoiled at the
outset, and one must try as well as one can to dry them when asleep at
night. If it be sunny and good drying weather outside, the best plan
is to hang them on a couple of "ski" staffs, or something of the kind,
in the wind outside the tent, preferably turned inside out, so that the
skin itself can dry quickly. If one does not take this precaution the
hair will soon begin to fall out. In severe cold, such as we had on
the first part of our journey, it was impossible to dry them in this
way, and our only resource was then to dry them on the feet at night,
after having carefully brushed and scraped them free from snow and
moisture. Then the next process is to turn them inside out, fill them
with "sennegraes," or sedge, if one have it, thrust one's feet in,
and creep into the sleeping-bag with them on. [8] For milder weather
later on we had provided ourselves with leather boots of the "komager"
type, such as the Lapps use in summer. In this case they were made of
under-tanned ox-hide, with soles of the skin of the blue seal (Phoca
barbara); well rubbed in with a composition of tar and tallow, they
make a wonderfully strong and water-tight boot, especially for use
in wet weather. Inside the "finsko" we used, at the beginning of our
journey, this "sennegraes" (Carex æsicaria), of which we had taken
a supply. This is most effective in keeping the feet dry and warm,
and if used Lapp-wise, i.e., with bare feet, it draws all moisture to
itself. At night the wet "sennegraes" must be removed from the boots,
well pulled out with the fingers, so that it does not cling together,
and then dried during the night by being worn inside the coat or
trousers-leg. In the morning it will be about dry, and can be pressed
into the boots again. Little by little, however, it becomes used up,
and if it is to last out a long journey a good supply must be taken.
We also had with us socks made of sheep's wool and human hair, which
were both warm and durable. Then, too, we took squares of "vadmel," or
Norwegian homespun, such as are used in our army, which we wore inside
our "komager" (particularly myself) on the latter part of the journey,
when the snow was wet. They are comfortable to wear and easy to dry,
as one can spread them out under one's coat or trousers at night.
On our hands we wore large gloves of wolfskin, in addition to ordinary
woollen mittens underneath, neither of them having separate divisions
for the fingers. Exactly the same drying process had to be gone through
with the gloves as with the foot-gear. Altogether the warmth of one's
unfortunate body, which is the only source of heat one has for this
sort of work, is chiefly expended in the effort to dry one's various
garments; and we spent our nights in wet compresses, in order that
the morrow might pass in a little more comfort.
On our heads we wore felt hats, which shaded the eyes from the dazzling
light, and were less pervious to the wind than an ordinary woollen
cap. Outside the hat we generally had one or two hoods of cloth. By
this means we could regulate the warmth of our heads to a certain
extent, and this is no unimportant thing.
It had been my original intention to use light one-man sleeping-bags,
made of the skin of the reindeer calf. As these, however, proved
to be insufficiently warm, I had to resort to the same principle
we went on in Greenland, i.e., a double bag of adult reindeer-skin;
a considerable increase of warmth is thus attained by the fact that
the occupants warm each other. Furthermore, a bag for two men is not
a little lighter than two single bags. An objection has been raised to
joint bags on the score that one's night's rest is apt to be disturbed,
but this I have not found to be the case.
Something which, in my opinion, ought not to be omitted from a sledge
journey is a tent. Even if thin and frail, it affords the members of
an expedition so much protection and comfort that the inconsiderable
increase in weight to the equipment is more than compensated for. The
tents that I had had made for the expedition were of strong undressed
silk and very light. They were square at the base and pointed at the
top, and were pitched by means only of a tent-pole in the middle,
on the same principle as the four-man tents used in our army. Most
of them had canvas floors attached. On our first start we took with
us a tent of this kind, intended to hold four men and weighing a
little over 7 pounds. The floor is a certain advantage, as it makes
the whole tent compact and is quick to put up, besides being more
impervious to wind. The whole tent is sewed in one piece, walls and
floor together, and the only opening a little split through which to
crawl. One drawback, however, to it is, that it is almost impossible
not to carry in with one a certain amount of snow on the feet. This
melts during the night from the heat of one's body lying on it,
and the floor absorbs the moisture, thereby causing the tent to be
always a good deal heavier than the figures given here.
I accordingly relinquished all idea of a tent of this kind, and took
with me one of about the same dimensions, but without a floor, and of
the same silk material as the other. It took a little longer to put up,
but the difference was not great. The walls were kept down by pegs,
and when all was finished we would bank it carefully round with snow
to exclude wind and draughts. Then came the actual pitching of the
tent, which was accomplished by crawling in through the entrance and
poking it up with a "ski" staff, which also served as tent-pole. It
weighed a fraction over 3 pounds, including 16 pegs, lasted the whole
journey through--that is to say, until the autumn--and was always a
cherished place of refuge.
The cooking apparatus we took with us had the advantage of utilizing
to the utmost the fuel consumed. With it we were able, in a very short
space of time, to cook food and simultaneously melt an abundance of
drinking-water, so that both in the morning and in the evening we were
able to drink as much as we wished, and even a surplus remained. The
apparatus consisted of two boilers and a vessel for melting snow or ice
in, and was constructed in the following manner: Inside a ring-shaped
vessel was placed the boiler, while underneath this again was the
lamp. The entire combustion output was thus forced to mount into the
space between the boiler and the ring-shaped vessel. Over this was a
tight-fitting lid with a hole in the middle, through which the hot air
was obliged to pass before it could penetrate farther and reach the
bottom of a flat snow-melter, which was placed above it. Then, after
having delivered some part of its heat, the air was forced down again
on the outside of the ring-shaped vessel by the help of a mantle,
or cap, which surrounded the whole. Here it parted with its last
remaining warmth to the outer side of the ring-vessel, and finally
escaped, almost entirely cooled, from the lower edge of the mantle.
For the heating was used a Swedish gas-petroleum lamp, known as the
"Primus," in which the heat turns the petroleum into gas before
it is consumed. By this means it renders the combustion unusually
complete. Numerous experiments made by Professor Torup at his
laboratory proved that the cooker in ordinary circumstances yielded
90 to 93 per cent. of the heat which the petroleum consumed should,
by combustion, theoretically evolve. A more satisfactory result, I
think, it would be difficult to obtain. The vessels in this cooker
were made of German silver, while the lid, outside cap, etc., were
of aluminium. Together with two tin mugs, two tin spoons, and a tin
ladle, it weighed exactly 8 pounds 13 ounces, while the lamp, the
"Primus," weighed 4 1/2 ounces.
As fuel, my choice this time fell on petroleum ("snowflake"). Alcohol,
which has generally been used before on Arctic expeditions, has
several advantages, and, in particular, is easy to burn. One decided
drawback to it, however, is the fact that it does not by any means
generate so much heat in comparison with its weight as petroleum when
the latter is entirely consumed, as was the case with the lamp used
by us. As I was afraid that petroleum might freeze, I had a notion
of employing gas-oil, but gave up the idea, as it escapes so easily
that it is difficult to preserve, and is, moreover, very explosive. We
had no difficulties with our "snowflake" petroleum on account of the
cold. We took with us rather more than 4 gallons, and this quantity
lasted us 120 days, enabling us to cook two hot meals a day and melt
an abundance of water.
Of snow-shoes we took several pairs, as we had to be prepared for
breakages in the uneven drift-ice; besides this, they would probably
get considerably worn in the summer-time when the snow became wet
and granular. Those we took with us were particularly tough, and slid
readily. They were, for the most part, of the same kind of maple as
the sledges, and of birch and hickory. They had all been well rubbed
in with a concoction of tar, stearine, and tallow.
As we calculated to subsist, in a measure, on what we could shoot
ourselves, it was necessary for us to have firearms. The most important
gun for this kind of work is, naturally, the rifle; but as, in all
likelihood, we should have to go across large expanses of snow, where
probably there would be little big game, and whereas, on the other
hand, birds might very likely come flying over our heads, I thought
shot-guns would be the most serviceable to us. Therefore we decided
on the same equipment in this respect as we had in Greenland. We
took with us two double-barrelled guns (büchsflints); each of them
having a shot-barrel of 20-bore and a barrel for ball (Express) of
about .360 calibre. Our supply of ammunition consisted of about 180
rifle cartridges and 150 shot cartridges.
Our instruments for determining our position and for working sights
were: a small, light theodolite, specially constructed for the purpose,
which, with its case (this I had also had made to act as a stand) only
weighed a little over two pounds. We had, furthermore, a pocket sextant
and an artificial glass horizon, a light azimuth compass of aluminium,
and a couple of other compasses. For the meteorological observations we
had a couple of aneroid barometers, two minimum spirit-thermometers
and three quicksilver sling-thermometers. In addition to these,
we had a good aluminium telescope, and also a photographic camera.
The most difficult, but also, perhaps, the most important, point in
the equipment of a sledge expedition is thoroughly good and adequate
victualling. I have already mentioned, in the Introduction to this
book, that the first and foremost object is to protect one's self
against scurvy and other maladies by the choice of foods, which,
through careful preparation and sterilization, are assured against
decomposition. On a sledge expedition of this kind, where so much
attention must be paid to the weight of the equipment, it is hardly
possible to take any kinds of provisions, except those of which the
weight has been reduced as much as possible by careful and complete
drying. As, however, meat and fish are not so easily digested when
dried, it is no unimportant thing to have them in a pulverized
form. The dried food is, in this manner, so finely distributed
that it can with equal facility be digested and received into the
organism. This preparation of meat and fish was, therefore, the only
kind we took with us. The meat was muscular beef, taken from the ox,
and freed from all fat, gristle, etc.; it was then dried as quickly
as possible, in a completely fresh condition, and thereupon ground
and mixed with the same proportion of beef suet as is used in the
ordinary preparation of pemmican. This form of food, which has been
used for a considerable time on sledge expeditions, has gained for
itself much esteem, and rightly; if well prepared, as ours was, it is
undeniably a nourishing and easily digested food. [9] One ought not,
however, to trust to its always being harmless, as, if carelessly
prepared--i.e., slowly or imperfectly dried--it may also be very
injurious to the health.
Another item of our provisions, by which we set great store, was Våge's
fish flour. It is well prepared and has admirable keeping qualities;
if boiled in water and mixed with flour and butter or dried potatoes,
it furnishes a very appetizing dish. Another point which should be
attended to is that the food be of such a kind that it can be eaten
without cooking. Fuel is part of an equipment, no doubt; but if for
some reason or other this be lost or used up, one would be in a bad
case indeed, had one not provided against such a contingency by taking
food which could be eaten in spite of that. In order to save fuel, too,
it is important that the food should not require cooking, but merely
warming. The flour that we took with us had therefore been steamed,
and could, if necessary, have been eaten as it was, without further
preparation. Merely brought to a boil, it made a good hot dish. We
also took dried boiled potatoes, pea-soup, chocolate, vril-food,
etc. Our bread was partly carefully dried wheaten biscuits, and partly
aleuronate bread, which I had caused to be made of wheat flour mixed
with about 30 per cent. of aleuronate flour (vegetable albumen).
We also took with us a considerable quantity of butter (86 pounds)
which had been well worked on board in order to get out all superfluous
water. By this means not only was considerable weight saved, but the
butter did not become so hard in the cold. On the whole, it must be
said that our menus included considerable variety, and we were never
subjected to that sameness of food which former sledge expeditions
have complained so much of. Finally, we always had ravenous appetites,
and always thought our meals as delicious as they could be.
Our medicine-chest consisted, on this occasion, of a little bag,
containing, naturally, only the most absolutely necessary drugs,
etc. Some splints and some ligatures, and plaster-of-Paris bandages,
for possible broken legs and arms; aperient pills and laudanum for
derangements of the stomach, which were never required; chloroform
in case of an amputation, for example, from frost-bite; a couple of
small glasses of cocaine in solution for snow-blindness (also unused);
drops for toothache, carbolic acid, iodoform gauze, a couple of curved
needles, and some silk for sewing up wounds; a scalpel, two artery
tweezers (also for amputations), and a few other sundries. Happily
our medicines were hardly ever required, except that the ligatures
and bandages came in very handily the following winter as wicks
for our train-oil lamps. Still better for this purpose, however,
is Nicolaysen's plaster, of which we had taken a supply for possible
broken collar-bones. The layer of wax we scraped carefully off and
found it most satisfactory for calking our leaky kayaks.
LIST OF THE EQUIPMENT
Sledge No. 1 (with Nansen's Kayak)
Lbs. Oz. Kilos.
Kayak 41 2 18.7
Pump (for pumping kayaks in case of
leakage) 1 2 0.5
Sail 1 9 0.7
Axe and geological hammer 1 5 0.6
Gun and case 7 4 3.3
Two small wooden rods belonging to cooker 0 14 0.4
Theodolite and case 4 13 2.2
Three reserve cross-pieces for sledges 0 0.9
Some pieces of wood 0 11 0.3
Harpoon line 0 8.4 0.24
Fur gaiters 1 3 0.55
Five balls of cord 2 9 1.17
Cooker, with two mugs, ladle, and two
spoons 8 13 4.0
Petroleum lamp (Primus) 0 4 1/2 0.1
Pocket-flask 0 6 0.17
Bag, with sundry articles of clothing 8 13 4.0
Blanket 4 6 2.0
Jersey 2 8 1.15
Finn shoes filled with grass 3 1 1.4
Cap for fitting over opening in kayak 0 7 0.2
One pair "komager" 2 1 0.95
Two pair kayak gloves and one harpoon
and line 1 5 0.6
One waterproof sealskin kayak overcoat 3 1 1.4
Tool-bag 2 10 1.2
Bag of sewing materials, including
sailmaker's palm, sail needles, and
other sundries 2 10 1.2
Three Norwegian flags 0 4 0.1
Medicines, etc. 4 15 2.25
Photographic camera 4 10 2.1
One cassette and one tin box of films 3 14 1.75
One wooden cup 0 3 0.08
One rope (for lashing kayak to sledge) 2 0 0.9
Pieces of reindeer-skin to prevent kayaks
from chafing 3 15 1.8
Wooden shovel 2 3 1.0
Ski-staff with disk at bottom 1 9 0.7
One bamboo staff 1 0 0.45
Two oak staffs 2 10 1.2
Seven reserve dog harnesses and two
reserve hauling ropes 2 10 1.2
One coil of rope 0 6 0.18
Four bamboo poles for masts and for
steering sledges 8 13 4.0
One bag of bread 5 15 2.7
,, ,, whey-powder 3 5 1.5
,, ,, sugar 2 3 1.0
,, ,, albuminous flour 1 12 0.8
,, ,, lime-juice tablets 1 10 0.73
,, ,, Frame-food stamina tablets 2 7 1.1
As boat's grips, under the sledges, were:
Three sacks of pemmican (together) 238 1 108.2
One sack "leverpostei," or pâté made
of calf's liver 93 15 42.7
Sledge No. 2. On this were carried, in strong sacks:
Lbs. Oz. Kilos.
Albuminous flour 14 15 6.8
Wheat flour 15 6 7.0
Whey-powder 16 15 7.7
Corn flour 8 13 4.0
Sugar 7 1 3.2
Vril-food 31 4 14.2
Australian pemmican 13 0 5.9
Chocolate 12 12 5.8
Oatmeal 11 0 5.0
Dried red whortleberries 0 14 0.4
Two sacks of white bread (together) 69 5 31.5
One sack of aleuronate bread 46 10 21.2
"Special food" (a mixture of pea flour,
meat-powder, fat, etc.) 63 13 29.0
Butter 85 13 39.0
Fish flour (Våge's) 34 2 15.5
Dried potatoes 15 3 6.9
One reindeer-skin sleeping-bag 19 13 9.0
Two steel-wire ropes, with couples for
twenty-eight dogs 11 0 5.0
One pair hickory snow-shoes 11 0 5.0
Weight of sledge 43 5 19.7
Sledge No. 3 (with Johansen's Kayak)
Lbs. Oz. Kilos.
Kayak 41 6 18.8
Two pieces of reindeer-skin, to prevent
chafing 1 12 0.8
A supply of dog-shoes 1 3 0.55
One Eskimo shooting-sledge with sail
(intended for possible seal-shooting
on the ice) 1 10 0.73
Two sledge sails 2 10 1.2
Pump 0 14 0.4
Oar-blades (made of canvas stretched on
frames, and intended to be lashed to
the ski-staffs) 1 2 0.5
Gun 7 2.7 3.26
Flask 0 5.9 0.17
Net (for catching crustacea in the sea) 0 5.2 0.15
One pair "komager" 1 15.7 0.9
Waterproof kayak overcoat of sealskin 2 3 1.0
Fur gaiters 0 7.3 0.21
Two reserve pieces of wood 0 9.8 0.28
Two tins of petroleum (about 5 gallons) 40 0.6 18.2
Several reserve snow-shoe fastenings 0 15.1 0.43
Lantern for changing plates, etc. 1 1.2 0.49
Artificial glass horizon 0 10.2 0.29
Bag with cords and nautical almanac 0 4.6 0.13
Pocket sextant 0 13.7 0.39
Two packets of matches 0 13.7 0.39
One reserve sheet of German silver (for
repaving plates under sledge-runners) 0 7.4 0.21
Pitch 0 3.5 0.1
Two minimum thermometers in cases 0 7.4 0.21
Three quicksilver thermometers in cases 0 4.9 0.14
One compass 0 8.8 0.25
One aluminium compass 0 8.4 0.24
,, ,, telescope 1 8.6 0.7
"Sennegraes" or sedge for Finn shoes 0 7 0.2
Bag with cartridges 26 1 11.85
Leather pouch with reserve shooting
requisites, parts for gun-locks,
reserve cocks, balls, powder, etc. 3 1 1.4
Leather pouch with glass bottle, one
spoon, and five pencils 0 10.6 0.3
Bag with navigation tables, nautical
almanac, cards, etc. 2 7 1.1
Tin box with diaries, letters,
photographs, observation-journals,
etc. 3 10 1.65
One cap for covering hole in deck of
kayak 0 8 0.23
One sack of meat-chocolate 17 10 8.0
One bag of soups 6 10 3.0
,, ,, cocoa 7 6 3.35
,, ,, fish flour 3 12 1.70
,, ,, wheat flour 2 0 0.90
,, ,, chocolate 4 6 2.0
,, ,, oatmeal 4 6 2.0
,, ,, vril-food 4 6 2.0
As grips under the sledge were:
One sack of oatmeal 29 1 13.2
,, ,, pemmican 115 1 52.3
,, ,, liver pâté 111 12 50.8
A list of our dogs and their weights on starting may be of interest:
Lbs. Kilos.
Kvik 78 35.7
Freia 50 22.7
Barbara 49 1/2 22.5
Suggen 61 1/2 28.0
Flint 59 1/2 27.0
Barrabas 61 1/2 28.0
Gulen 60 1/2 27.5
Haren 61 1/2 28.0
Barnet 39 17.7
Sultan 68 31.0
Klapperslangen 59 1/2 27.0
Blok 59 26.8
Bjelki 38 17.3
Sjöliget 40 18.0
Katta 45 1/2 20.7
Narrifas 46 21.0
Livjægeren 38 1/2 17.5
Potifar 57 26.0
Storræven 70 31.8
Isbjön 61 1/2 28.0
Lilleræven 59 26.7
Kvindfolket 37 26.0
Perpetuum 63 28.6
Baro 60 1/2 27.5
Russen 58 26.5
Kaifas 69 31.5
Ulenka 57 26.0
Pan 65 29.5