The excursion had been the happy idea of the two ladies. Luigi luckily

found that he had inevitable business in the city, and of course there

was no question or exposing the aged patriot to the risks of travel--he

seldom ventured abroad; but a friend of Teresa’s was to join us at

Albano, a charming Russian lady in reduced circumstances, and perhaps

Emilio would follow us later, and Berta had sent word to another friend

of hers, a German girl, who lived out there, and possibly we should find

Miss Gilpin too--only it seemed that Miss Gilpin was rather “proud of

herself,” Berta said, rather “high,” and if she knew that Madame de

Shuvaloff, poor thing, was to be one of our party she might think it

beneath her; for Madame de Shuvaloff, you understand, had been reduced

to keeping a boarding-house near the Ponte Margherita, to support

herself and her little girl, and Berta for her part could see nothing

dishonourable in poverty, but some people--“som people,” said Teresa

trenchantly, “think it wrong for som people to be even alive, isn’t it?”

We must, then, remember that _if_ Miss Gilpin should condescend to

accompany us--“condescend?” cried Berta, “I shall just give her a good

piece of somthing if she condescends, oh yes I shall!” “You silly gurl,”

said Teresa, “always in a passion about somthing!”--and Teresa began to

reckon the number of our party for luncheon, confusing herself

inextricably in the effort to keep the certain and the probable and the

unlikely in separate categories.

We had crossed the shining plain, had tunnelled into the hills and

arrived at Albano before we had time to delight very much in the

country; and even the glorious free English ramble that we were to take

in the woods before luncheon consisted mostly of debates and delays,

harassing doubts, wrong turnings--for Teresa was positively afraid of

her niece’s boldness, once the girl was let loose in the country, and

she was resolved that the crazy thing should incur no unpleasantness,

so she darkly mentioned, such as may easily befall one in the wild

places of the mountain. The wildness, Teresa seemed to hold, begins

where the back-streets and the chicken-runs and the rubbish-heaps of the

Albanians leave off; and our hour of adventure ran out while we peered

round corners, measured the risk of climbing a stony path that

disappeared in an ilex-wood, and recollected that we mustn’t be led on

to wander too far before the time appointed for our party at the

trattoria. “How quick the morning passes in the country!” exclaimed

Berta, casting out a black-gloved hand to beat off the flies and the

puffs of white dust--the flies and the dust in the safer parts of the

country are very thick. “But we must hurry back,” Teresa reminded us;

and we turned away from the prospect of the ilex-wood, keeping to the

shade of a high wall covered with bright blue posters, and stepped out

with more assurance to regain the street of the tram-line, the

town-piazza above the railway-station, and the homely eating-house where

Madame de Shuvaloff and the rest were to meet us.

Our party kept us waiting interminably, and in the end it consisted only

of the Russian lady, reduced and charming, with her sharp and shrill

little girl. Everybody else, it seemed, had failed us, whether in

forgetfulness or in pride. But no matter, Teresa and Berta could make a

party, as I have noted, out of the leanest material; and Madame de

Shuvaloff (it is but a random shot that I take at her name) was one of

those who occupy a large amount of room for their size. We waited long

for her; but she came straggling into the trattoria at last--a tiny

scrap of a woman with a thin pale face and huge eyes, a clutching and

clawing and shrieking little creature, like a half-fledged young bird

of prey escaped from the nest. She strayed in upon us as though by

accident, and with a shriek and a flourish of her claws, catching sight

of us, she scrambled over chairs and tables, beat her wings in startled

surprise, dashed herself against the walls and ceiling--I give the

impression I received--and disappeared again, fluttering out through the

doorway with a cry for something she had left behind. It was her child

that she had lost, and there was a scuffle without, an encounter of

clashing beaks, and she returned with the child in her talons--a still

smaller but quite as active young fledgling, which struggled and shook

itself free and bounced across the floor to its perch at our table.

Teresa and Berta sat up, very decent and straight-backed, to meet the

shock of the party, and with the subsiding of the first commotion they

were able to keep it more or less in hand. Our guests were induced to

compose themselves on their chairs in the likeness of human beings.

They did their best, and the little girl indeed (her mother called her

Mimi) straightened her frock and folded her hands and pursed her lips in

a careful imitation of Teresa, enjoying the pretence of social and

lady-like manners. She improved on her example with a coquettish dart of

her eyes (at the gentleman of the party) under lowered lids; she had a

native expertness beyond the rest of us, and at intervals through the

meal she remembered to use it. But she broke down when a dish of food

appeared, and she then became the voracious nestling, passionate to be

the first to get her fingers into the mess and to secure the likeliest

lumps. She screamed to her mother in a jumble of languages to give her

_that_ bit, the best, not the nasty scrap beside it; her mother ordered

and protested, Mimi fought and snatched--on the arrival of anything

fresh to eat there was an outbreak of the free life of the wild. Mimi,

pacified with the lump she needed, was again a young person of gracious

style; and Teresa, quite powerless before these glimpses of the unknown,

could resume her control of the occasion and the ceremony. Mimi then,

momentarily gorged and at ease, watched us with a flitting glancing

attention that I in my turn was fascinated to watch. Her mind was keenly

at work, transparently observing and memorizing; she noted our

attitudes, our speech and behaviour, she stored them away for her

benefit; and I wondered what words she was using, what language she

thought in, while she seized and saved up these few small grains of a

social experience. Whenever she caught my eye on her she began

immediately to make use of them; she consciously arched her neck, she

fingered her fork with elegance, she shot her glances with eloquent

effect.

Her mother meanwhile--but her mother was indeed a baffling study. Teresa

was quite right, she was charming; she was perfectly simple and natural,

and just as much so when she was human as when she clawed and shrieked

in her native bird-savagery. When she was human she talked with a

curious questing ingenuity in any or all of the civilized tongues. She

raised us above trivialities, she neglected Teresa’s questions about her

journey, her plans, her unpunctuality; she started (in French) a

fanciful disquisition upon some very modern matter of painting or

dancing or dressing, some revolution in all the arts that was imminent;

and it seemed that she was deep in the inner councils and intrigues of

the revolution, which had its roots in a philosophic theory (she

slipped, without missing a step, into German) that she expounded in a

few light touches of whimsical imagery (suddenly twisting off into

Italian); and I can hear her assuring Teresa that the black misery of a

woman’s life will flush into pink, will whiten to snow of pure delight,

if she breaks through the bonds of--I forget what, of earthly thought,

of esthetic imprisonment; and I can see Teresa’s blank white face, her

bonnet-strings neat under her chin, her lips decently arranged as though

her mouth were full of dough, while she waits her opportunity to declare

that this modern art is all “too ogly, too drrreadfully horrible and

ogly for words.” The little visitor smiled sweetly and darted with

nimble grace into further reaches of her argument--where she evoked a

stonier stare upon the faces of Teresa and Berta, who began to look

straight across the table at nothing at all as though they could

suddenly neither see nor hear. There seemed to be no malice in Madame de

Shuvaloff, but there was no shame either. She talked most improperly (in

French), breaking through the last of the bonds that restrain us, not

indeed from the snowier heights, but from the pinker revelries of

speculation; and I don’t know where it would have ended or how Teresa

would have tackled the daring creature at last, but Mimi (who had quite

understood that she was to look inattentive when these topics were

broached)--Mimi presently distracted her mother and all of us by hurling

herself (out of her turn) at the _fritto misto_, in a passion of fear

lest the dish should be rifled and spoilt before it reached her.

Mimi was not a nice child, but her mother was decidedly attractive--far

more artless, more unconscious, more heedless than her daughter. What in

the world was the history behind them? Madame de Shuvaloff never

explained herself, and it “passes me,” as Luigi would say, how she came

to be keeping a Roman _pension_ by the Ponte Margherita. Russian she

was, Russian was at the bottom of all her tongues; but evidently it had

for so long been overlaid by the rest of Europe that she had almost

forgotten it was there. Each of her languages, however, was a language

of her own, full of odd pretty tones and inflexions that coiled and

scooped and curled with a singular music. When the struggle over the

_fritto misto_ died down Teresa seized the word with decision, the word

that seemed furthest from Madame de Shuvaloffs indelicacy, and with

Berta’s ready help she kept the conversation on a purer level. We talked

of the terrible rise in the price of provisions: did Olga know (Olga was

Madame de Shuvaloff) that Luigi had found it was entirely due to the

weakness of the government?--the criminal weakness of the ministry

before the threats of the _bassa plebe_; and if you ask how it is that

the common people insist on an increase in the cost of living, which

seems improbable, Teresa assures you that in fact they don’t know _what_

they want, such is their ignorance and their folly. We only perceive

that the country is in a sad condition, and Luigi declares--but Madame

Olga suddenly shrieks out with a shrill exclamation, followed by a

little fountain of airy laughter, for she has just remembered that she

forgot to give any directions to her servant, before leaving Rome this

morning, and she believes the creature capable of anything--of

anything--and heaven knows what will have happened to the midday meal of

her pensioners! “How many is your table?” asked Teresa with sympathetic

concern. “Eighty!” cried Madame Olga lightly, and she fumbled in her

bag and showed us a couple of five-franc notes that she had expressly

borrowed from one of her guests, only last night, for Colomba the cook

to go marketing with to-day. Well, isn’t it unlucky? “I shall lose them

all--all my eighty!” the little lady humorously wailed. “I lose them

always; Mimi and I, we shall starve!”

I expected a howl from Mimi, but she took it unmoved; she knew her

mother. Teresa, it was evident, knew her less, for Teresa gloomed

anxiously upon the prospect, trying to hold little Olga to her words and

beginning to offer advice and warning. You couldn’t trust a Roman

cook--surely Olga had discovered that; and lodgers, in these bad times,

are precious articles and you must handle them cautiously. “But how many

did you say--?” It broke upon Teresa that Olga had played with her over

the number, and her face was a pleasant mixture of dignity a little

ruffled and mannerliness striving to meet a joke. Madame de Shuvaloff

became instantly serious; and though it didn’t appear that the disaster

of the dinnerless pensioners weighed on her, she was desperate,

unutterably hopeless, over the tragedy of a woman’s life in the great

horrible world. “Men,” she said bitterly, “do what they will with

us”--and the eyes of Berta and Teresa met in a swift glance as they

hastily struck up their give-and-take on the question of the likeliest

methods of attracting the right kind of lodger to share one’s home. One

should possibly advertise in the newspapers--but the topic was

unfortunately chosen, for Madame Olga immediately flung off into a

rippling titter of mirth, thin and savage, at the notion of

“attracting,” were it only as boarders at one’s table, the men who make

the world so black a place for a woman. “All beasts!” she declared

flatly; and this was her opportunity for a story that she addressed

particularly at me, glaring with her great eyes in the horror of what

she told.

Truly the Russian wild sends out strange little emissaries to the cities

of civilization. This tiny frail slip of a woman, who looked as though a

puff of air from the frozen plain would shrivel her dead, had somehow

scrambled across Europe and held her own and lodged herself in a cranny

of Rome; and there she had stuck, she had survived, you couldn’t tell

how, with a tenacity of slender claws that could grasp and cling where a

heavier weight would have found no chance of foothold. She was evidently

indestructible. The world, by her account, massed its ponderous strength

to crush her; but there was nothing in her that might be crushed, no

superfluous sensitive stuff to be caught by a blow; there was nothing

but one small central nut or bead of vitality, too hard for the world

itself to crack. She thrived upon the conflict; I don’t for a moment

suppose that the world was as unkind to her as it was, for example, to

poor foolish old Teresa; but she believed herself to be singled out for

its crudest attack, and the thought was exquisite and stimulating. She

had, moreover, a real artistic passion; her fire and thrill were genuine

when she talked of the strange things that were doing among the artists;

but I note that it had to be the art of the present, the art of a

chattering studio rather than of a hushed museum--she couldn’t have

thrilled and fired before the beauty of the past and dead, where there

aren’t the same intoxicating revolutions to be planned and exploded upon

an unsuspicious age. Drama she needed, and of drama you can always have

your fill if you know as well as she did how to make it. Why yes, she

created a notion of mysterious conspiracy, somewhere lurking in the

background, by her very refusal to explain and apologize when she was

late for lunch.

As for her story of the baseness of men, told with extreme earnestness

in three languages, she made a very good thing of it and we were all

impressed. But much more striking than her story was the picture that

rose before me of her establishment, her boarding-house by the Tiber,

where a dozen lodgers (she reduced them to a dozen), mostly like herself

from the Russian inane, gathered and mingled, quarrelled and stormed at

each other, conspired, bribed the cook, made love to the landlady (of

course I have only her word for it), eloped without settling their

bills, lent her five-franc notes to pay at least for the next meal--but

chiefly talked, talked day and night, sat interminably talking, while

Olga rated the servants or hunted for the lost key of the larder, while

Colomba had hysterics and dropped the soup-tureen, while Mimi killed

flies at the window and had her own little crisis of nerves over a

disappointment about a box of chocolates. All these visions appeared in

the story--which was a story of the monstrous behaviour of one of the

lodgers, a young man of whom Olga had tried to make a friend. A

friend!--yes, Olga believed in friendship, in spite of a hundred

disillusions; she believed in a species of friendship that transcends

the material, the physical; but we needn’t go into that, for though she

_had_ believed in it, the young man’s behaviour had pretty well killed

her faith, once for all, and she now saw that there could be no true

friendship in a world where half the world (the brutes of men) have no

sense of honour, none of loyalty, none of idealism, transcendentalism,

immaterialism; and Teresa still held her lips placidly bunched while

Olga circled among these safe abstractions, but the little wretch came

presently down with a bump again upon plainer terms, and it behoved

Teresa to intervene with all her decision. Olga said that the young man

had proved to be not only destitute of these safe vague qualities, but

terribly in possession of other qualities, quite of the opposite kind,

which she proceeded to name; and their names lacked that soft classical

buzz and blur (idealism, materialism, prunes-and-prism--the termination

is reassuring), and on the contrary were so crude and clear-cut that

Teresa pushed back her chair and suggested another delightful long

ramble in the forest, a “country afternoon,” such as we all adored.

There really was no malice in Olga, the little wretch; for to be

malicious you must at least have some consciousness of the feelings of

other people, you must know what will hurt them; and Olga was aware of

no feelings, no subject of sensation, save her own and herself. Imagine

all the relations of the world to be arranged like the spokes of a

wheel, with no crossing or tangling before they reach the middle; and

Olga herself in the middle, with every thread of feeling that exists all

radiating away from her into space: that was the order of nature as Olga

saw it, that indeed was her fashion of introducing order of any kind

into the universe. One must simplify somehow; and if, unlike Olga, you

suspect people of thinking and feeling on their own account, all anyhow,

turning the cart-wheel into a tangle--well then you must order your

private affairs, your habits, your household at least, into some kind

of reposeful pattern. Olga had no need of a stupid mechanical pattern,

the mere work of her own hands, to be imposed upon the facts around her.

Let Colomba rave, let the lodgers hurl their boots among the crockery

(she happened to mention it as one of their ways), let the

boarding-house seethe and heave like a page of Dostoevsky: no matter,

the universe kept its grand simplicity, all lines met at the centre,

Olga was there. The story of the base young man had no bearing upon

anybody but herself; Teresa was shocked, but Olga didn’t care, didn’t

notice, and she went on absorbed in her narrative--or she would have

done so if Mimi hadn’t made another diversion (to be frank, she was sick

before she could get to the door) in which the young man was finally

dropped and forgotten.

Emilio now joined us, very hot and shiny from the train, and as soon as

he had refreshed himself we issued forth--an orderly procession, for

Mimi clung pensively awhile to her mother’s arm; and it was agreed that

we should enjoy ourselves unconventionally, fearlessly, in a walk

through the greenwood to Castel Gandolfo. We mustn’t forget, however,

that Fräulein Dahl, Berta’s German friend, would be descending from

Castel Gandolfo (where she lived) to meet us; and we immediately saw

that whichever of the forest-paths we chose we should certainly miss

her. “We had better go perhaps no further than this,” said Berta,

pausing under the blue posters of the wall we had already studied that

morning; and Emilio proposed the amendment that it would be safer still

to wait in the middle of the town, by the tram-station, where the lady

would be sure to look for us. But Berta yearned for the country; so she

and Teresa spread a couple of newspapers upon a dust-heap under the

posters, gathered their skirts, deposited themselves with care, and

pointed out that one had a charming glimpse of the country from this

very spot. A little way up the lane indeed there was leafy shadow and

the beginning of a woodland ride; and Olga, restlessly ranging, called

to us to come further and take to the forest. But Teresa and Berta were

established, and they declared themselves at ease where they

were--though I can’t say they looked very easy, with their veils pulled

down and their knees drawn neatly together, both clutching the ornate

handles of their umbrellas. “People will think we are strange gurls,”

said Berta, “sprawling by the road like this!” Emilio had to make the

best he could of their wild English ways; he leant with resignation

against the picture of a highly developed young woman in evening dress,

who held out a box of pills with a confident smile; he sucked at a long

cigar in silence. Mimi really did sprawl; she lay where she fell, she

slept the sleep in which one repairs the disasters of a recent meal.

I followed her mother up the shadowy path into the woodland, where we

were to watch carefully for Berta’s expected friend. When at last you

are clear of the pigs and chickens of Albano you plunge immediately into

the Virgilian forest that spreads and spreads over the hills, between

the two deep bowls of the lakes. The ancient darkness of ilex leads you

on, and the darkness changes to hoary sun-sprinkled oak-shadow, to open

spaces where the big white rock-rose flowers against the outcrop of the

grey stone, and the path stumbles on into damp green tunnels among the

chestnut saplings; and a laden mule, driven by a bare-footed boy,

appears with a jangle of bells that carry me off and away, deeper and

deeper into the time-softened goodness of the wondrous land, the

Saturnian land, the great mother of kindly beast and songful man--for

the boy sings as he plods up the pathway, with long sweet notes that are

caught by a hungry ear, caught and lost, caught again in the far

distance with an echo of the years of gold, of the warm young earth in

its innocence. How can we praise the land that Virgil praised? Leave the

word to Virgil, listen while he repeats it again--again. I can hear

nothing else till the last sound of it has died; and my companion, the

strange little wild thing from the east, lifts up her finger and is

silent and motionless till it ceases. What does Olga know of the golden

years and the Saturnian land? Nothing, nothing whatever; but she listens

with uplifted finger, entranced by the freedom of the forest, for a few

fine moments forgetful of her own existence. Then she is herself again,

flitting and scrambling down the path to meet a figure that approaches

through the green shadows.

IX. CASTEL GANDOLFO

FRAULEIN DAHL CAME STRIDING UP the woodland path with a free swing of

her arms and flourish of her staff--not a Virgilian figure, yet

classical too in her way, carrying her head in the manner of a primeval

mother-goddess of the tribes. Didn’t the old Mediterranean settler,

pushing inland from the coast where he had beached his boat--didn’t he,

somewhere in the ilex-solitude of the Italic hills, encounter certain

ruder and ruggeder stragglers from the north?--and hadn’t these tall and

free-stepping strangers brought with them their matriarch, the genius of

their stock, a woman ancient as time and still as young as the morning,

with her grey eyes and her broad square brow and her swinging tread? No

doubt my ethnology is very wild, but thus it sprang into my mind and

took form at the sight of the woman who approached--for whom the name of

Fräulein Dahl, so flat and so featureless, seemed absurdly inadequate.

She flopped when she saw us, she stood serene and large while the little

Russian dashed about her with cries and pecks. Olga hung upon her with

excited endearments, with lithe gesticulations that made the new-comer

look entirely like a massive and rough-hewn piece of nature, unmoved by

the futile humanity that scrambles upon her breast. I really can’t speak

of her by the name of a middle-aged spinster from Dresden (which indeed

she was); for I can only think of her as Erda, as the earth-mother of

the ancient forest; and when she addressed me in her deep voice and her

Saxon speech, brief and full, it was as though she uttered the

aboriginal tongue of the northern twilight, the _Ursprache_ of the

heroes. I ought to have answered only with some saga-snatch of strong

rough syllables, like the clash of shield and spear beneath the spread

of the Branstock; and as I couldn’t do this, and my poor little phrases

of modern politeness were intolerably thin and mean for such an

encounter, I must own that my conversation with Erda didn’t flourish,

and I had mainly to look on while Olga, not troubled by my scruples,

clawed and dragged her into the fever of our degenerate age. Think of

Erda clutched by the skirt, pecked with familiar kisses, haled out of

the forest into the presence of Teresa and Berta, where they sit on

their dust-heap and wave their black gloves in a voluble argument, the

heat and the flies having by this time fretted their tempers and

considerably flawed, it would seem, their joy in the freedom of the

country. But nothing can disturb the large repose of Erda’s dignity, and

the groundlings of the dust recover themselves as she appears, suddenly

sweeten their smiles and their voices, advance to meet and greet a

middle-aged spinster from Dresden, hard-featured and shabbily clad.

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