A SECRET EXPEDITION.
“He deserves small trust,
Who is not privy councillor to himself.”
One evening when at dinner, I received an official letter, which
ordered me to proceed on the following day to a spot some miles down
the river, and on the opposite bank. My luggage was not to exceed a
specified weight, and further instructions would await me on arrival. I
was moreover to consider the communication of a confidential character,
which pointed clearly to some enterprise only to be revealed to those
actually concerned, and not by any means intended as food for station
gossip.
I accordingly dropped down the river the following afternoon with
my old attendant, any possible difficulty in discovering the place
having been surmounted by their placing a look-out there to show that
I was expected. But for the unmistakably official character of the
communication which had summoned me hither, the proceedings resembled
a ruse to entrap me.
Nor did the place serve to allay such a suspicion; on landing I saw
nothing but trees and shrubs, and the smoke from a fire some little way
inland.
The look-out now assumed the character of guide, and politely asked
me to follow him to the camp, at which we soon arrived. Nestled among
trees at the base of the hills was a considerable force of European
and Native Infantry and Irregular Cavalry, while guns and gunners were
conspicuous by their absence. That intelligent and useful pachyderm—the
elephant—also mustered strong, those present being strong and of large
size, evidently carefully selected for the occasion.
This formidable array of colossal mammals were picketed apart; had they
but been cognisant of their own strength, they might have nipped the
expedition in the bud.
This largest and most sagacious of animals is also the most docile
and obedient, gifted with a good memory, affectionate in return for
considerate treatment, but never failing to resent an injury.
Perhaps his most apparent characteristic is extreme restlessness;
viewed at any time, either his whole body is swaying to and fro, or
else one of its members; the large ears flapping, the trunk fidgeting,
or the feet being raised alternately from the ground. He is wonderfully
observant of all that is going on around, for his eye, though small to
outward appearances, is very strong of vision, its disproportionate
minuteness being a beautiful adaptation of a means to an end, since,
were it larger or less protected, it would be liable to constant injury
in the tangled vegetation of the jungle. Many folks are unaware of the
somewhat singular fact that twice the circumference of any elephant’s
foot, measured on the ground, gives the exact measurement of his
height. I once gave practical demonstration of this curious fact to the
manager of a menagerie, and his astonishment was certainly great.
The total absence of wheeled conveyances in itself told a tale,
implying an excursion into a wild and unexplored country devoid of
roads, for some specific purpose known only to those in authority,
while the importance of the enterprise was to be gathered from the
fact of its being led by the Chief Commissioner himself. His intimate
knowledge of the people and their language, to say nothing of his many
other eminent qualifications, fitted him for the post; and, moreover,
whatever he undertook, he was in the habit of performing thoroughly. He
was in fact our Commander-in-Chief. There were, besides, two officers
belonging to the European detachment and a quartermaster with the
natives.
I shrewdly suspected that my summons to attend was an afterthought at
the last moment, the original intention being to employ only a native
“medicine man.” I was confirmed in my suspicion by the fact that
everything was ready for a move, even to an armoury of medicines and
appliances. When and how this force of men and elephants had assembled
there, was best known to themselves; at Prome, few if any suspected it,
so adroitly had everything been managed; as for myself, I had not the
faintest idea of what was going on, until the scene already described
burst upon me.
That evening was a very pleasant one; my welcome was cordial, and we
chatted during and after dinner, though not even a passing allusion
threw any light upon the object or destination of the expedition.
This was my first march, and I was therefore deeply interested in all
the preliminary details, including several readjustments of weights.
As I moved to my allotted quarters, my eyes fell upon a very pretty
scene, the first of its kind that had ever come under my notice.
The night was fine and clear, and the silvery moonbeams dancing on
the river close at hand, brought out in bold relief the whiteness of
the tents under which reposed so many soldiers. Lower down appeared
the horses and elephants, tethered _secundum artem_, the former
comparatively still, the latter still busy with their arboreal food,
and evincing signs of that characteristic perpetual motion to which
allusion has already been made.
The camp fires were dying away, yet ever and anon a puff of wind would
fan one into flame, which lit up the sleeping forms enveloped in thick
blankets. Besides warming the surrounding air, the fires emitted large
volumes of smoke, to the detriment of mosquitoes and other equally
unwelcome intruders.
The profound stillness in which the whole scene was wrapped was broken
only by the ripple of the river or the occasional splash of a fish.
So absorbed was I in the scene before me, that I was, until addressed,
unaware that any other man was near me. It proved to be my assistant,
a native of much intelligence, who ultimately showed himself a
trustworthy man, always ready to assist in his own or any other
department.
After a brief conversation with him, from which I gathered several
important details relating to the package and transport of our
available stock of medicines, I called my valet and turned in, my last
words being those of the poet, “Call me early!”
This injunction proved unnecessary, for I awoke of my own accord a
great deal too soon, ere the darkness had fled. Soon, however, we heard
the sound of hammering at tent-pegs, and we knew that our first day’s
march was about to commence. By the time we were dressed and discussing
some hot tea and toast under a tree, the first faint streaks of dawn
appeared in the east, and the force moved inland.
With the advanced guard, consisting of some troopers, rode our
Burmese guides: close on these followed the Commissioner and officers,
accompanied by a few more Burmese, men of some standing, as was evident
by their dress and bearing.
Behind marched the bulk of the infantry; then the elephants laden with
camp-baggage, while the rear was brought up by the remainder of the
infantry and troopers.
Roads, properly so-called, there were none; here and there we came upon
some kind of tract, but it never lasted any time; notwithstanding, but
few halts occurred, and these were chiefly owing to signals from the
scouts, who fancied they descried movements ahead.
The country was undulating and covered with low trees and shrubs, many
of which bore bright coloured fruits or berries, which we admired, but
let alone, knowing from experience that things fair to look at in those
lands are oftentimes dangerous to eat.
In the declivities we crossed several _quondam_ watercourses, which
now contained but a few small pools. Some little apprehension was at
first entertained as to a sufficient supply of water, and the length
of the marches had to be regulated by what we came across of this very
essential commodity. For the bipeds a moderate supply would suffice,
but the horses, and more especially the elephants, required a large
allowance, and the anxiety was chiefly on their account.
From the nature of the country, the column was necessarily attenuated,
forming an imposing sight when viewed from an eminence, as it moved
leisurely across country. The dips and rises in the ground made it
appear as if broken at intervals. It is an old-established custom,
when on the march, to call a halt when about half the distance has
been accomplished; the men are then allowed a good quarter of an hour,
during which they fall out and refresh themselves with cold tea or
water, which they carry for the purpose in bottles cased in leather
and slung over their shoulders. Very short black pipes also come to the
front on these occasions.
Officers perform somewhat similar manœuvres; and in times of peace,
arrangements are made for enjoying such luxuries as hot tea and coffee.
At the end of the day’s march the Europeans and natives soon pitched
the tents; the process of cooking made rapid progress under the skilful
hands of the natives appointed for the purpose; the elephants, relieved
of their loads, went a short distance into the jungle, where boughs
were lopped off certain trees for their consumption.
After we had refreshed ourselves with a bath and a good meal, we sat
outside our tents chatting, and presently turned in, having first
repacked many things ready for an early start next morning.
With the exception of some birds in the surrounding trees, the country
seemed devoid of living things, bipedal or otherwise. The animals
had doubtless been scared by the unaccustomed noises inseparable from
the march of such a force. There was not a sign of a village in any
direction, our route had evidently been most carefully considered
beforehand, and we were steering clear of all frequented places, with
a view to effecting a surprise.
In this way we crept stealthily along. As march succeeded march, the
character of the country varied, our surroundings becoming daily wilder
and more picturesque.
The jungle grew taller and thicker, numerous and extensive clumps of
bamboo reared their graceful heads high in the air; trees became more
abundant, of immense size and venerable with age, while creepers with
thick skins and large leaves ramified in every direction to such an
extent as to render many parts inaccessible, save on the back of an
elephant.
After the first day’s march, game literally swarmed. Of a morning, the
clear, shrill note of that handsome and delicate bird, the jungle-fowl,
resounded on every side, and when able to use the elephants, we shot
large numbers of them with a fair sprinkling of partridges. Deer were
plentiful, as also tigers and bears.
During a halt, one of the Europeans engaged in pitching the tents
happened to see a pair of eyes peeping from a thicket close at hand,
and, aiming a blow with a mallet, he succeeded in felling a small
deer, which had evidently been too paralyzed to effect its escape. As
an addition to our table, venison was not to be despised; at the same
time the Eastern produce is very inferior to our own, which may be said
of the game generally, with the exception of the jungle-fowl. This
bird combines elegant plumage with a piquant flavour rarely met with
in Asiatic birds, yet only when hung the proper time. It is a very shy
bird, frequenting those spots where the undergrowth is thickest, and
running for some distance when alarmed, eventually rising a short way
from the ground, and flying along with cries of alarm.
Situated as we now were, the chance of a shot rarely occurred, though
later on we made amends. Neither, as subsequent events clearly proved,
was it wise to enter those thickly wooded parts _on foot_ in search of
game. I was taught a lesson which eventually cured me, but will reserve
an account of it for the proper place.
Instead of marching direct on our quarry, whatever that might be, it
soon became evident that we were describing a circuitous route, not
only for the aforementioned reasons, but also to avoid a deep and rapid
river, which would have brought us to a standstill. On we plodded,
therefore, through wilder country, coming one day upon a few houses
strongly pallisaded, but to all appearances long since deserted. It was
indeed difficult to conceive what could have induced a few families to
migrate to such a place in the heart of a jungle swarming with wild
beasts, which must have carried off their children and cattle even
during the day.
This may have led to their departure; if chosen for retirement from
oppression, or for the purpose of contemplating amid nature in her
primæval condition, the selection showed admirable judgment. The
residential portion of these dwellings must have been twenty feet or
more from the ground and the pallisade, which included a circle twelve
or fifteen feet in diameter, and contained only one door.
It was a great relief to find that the settlement had been uninhabited
for some time; otherwise, had the residents simply fled at our
approach, there was no calculating how far the news of our proximity
might not have preceded us. Still greater caution would then have been
necessary, for the Burmese, with their knowledge of the topography
of the country, might have opened on us all the inconveniences of a
guerilla warfare.
So far, fortune had favoured the brave Commissioner whose fertile mind
had conceived and organized the undertaking. If he entertained any
misgivings as to the ultimate success of the expedition, they never
appeared on the surface, for he was bright, cheerful and sanguine
throughout.
We were far away from any kind of help; few indeed were aware of the
expedition; and being himself the ruler of the country, there was no
one to whom he could report progress. He was, moreover, dependent on
the integrity of those who were guiding him through a country hitherto
untrodden by Europeans, destitute of roads and bristling with almost
insurmountable difficulties. He was mainly depending on secrecy and a
circuitous flank movement.
On the other hand, he doubtless placed considerable reliance on his
thorough knowledge of the Burmese character. Yet, in spite of this, how
could he be sure that intelligence would not by some means or other be
conveyed to the party in revolt? We have reason to know how rapidly
events and proceedings are communicated in the East; how they travel
through the length and breadth of lands that know not the telegraph;
and if anything like a determined opposition had been offered along
the line of march, we should have suffered great losses, until retreat
would have probably been still more disastrous than any advance.
Thus the Commissioner was unquestionably taking upon himself a heavy
responsibility and courting unusual risks, from motives best known to
himself. We could only enjoy a satisfactory peep here and there, and
indulge in conjectures; but ere long, the curtain was to be raised and
the whole scene viewed at a glance. It was a bold conception, and ably
carried out by a master mind!
Hitherto it had not been my good fortune to come across a teak forest,
but we now skirted one. Judging from the regularity of the spaces
between the trees, it looked as if the process of thinning had been
employed, and the survivors were of large size, great height and
immense value.
As this was the season at which they shed their large rough leaves, the
interior of the forest was lighted up, otherwise it must have been as
dark as Erebus. In one place, a bear was seen shuffling along as fast
as he could travel, evidently dismayed at our intrusion, and too far
off to have a shot at, even had we been so minded.
There was then a craze for teak-wood, and, as the forests were
indiscriminately and ruthlessly felled in this and subsequent years
till irreparable mischief ensued, this one probably shared the fate
of the rest. Subsequently our Government realized the gravity of the
situation, and appointed a forest conservancy, which, considering the
mischief was already done and the teak requires about eighty years to
arrive at maturity, was rather worse than locking the stable-door after
the steed has been stolen.
Defoliated as they were, the sight was nevertheless a grand one, and
more than realized my expectations. This tree has been introduced in
various parts of the East, but nowhere does it thrive as in Burmah, the
soil and climate suiting it equally well.
The largest bamboos too that I ever came across were in this country,
and I have cut specimens some nine inches in diameter. The rough
leaves of the one and the glossy surface of the other contain a large
proportion of silica.
No wood approaches teak for ship-building purposes, as it is easily
worked, durable and insect-proof. Most of our old East-Indiamen were
composed of it, outliving even those constructed of oak.
Since entering the “Iron Age” of ships, the demand has greatly
decreased; but this wood is still employed almost exclusively for the
purpose of decking vessels of any size and importance.
I believe the P. and O. used formerly to send their vessels to Bombay,
where they were decked with teak under the superintendence of Chinese
carpenters, who understood that particular branch better even than
ourselves.
I shall have occasion to return to the subject of the Teak trade in a
subsequent chapter.
Leaving this forest on the left, a few days’ march brought us to the
fringe of a sparsely inhabited country, and we came suddenly upon its
one village.
So far from being afraid of us, men, women and children approached
the camp, squatted down, and surveyed us with ludicrous curiosity,
seemingly forgetting all else. They merely sat there, looking first
at one thing, then at another; admiring the tents, but amazed beyond
measure at the whiteness of our hands and faces.
My canvas having been erected, I retired to have a wash, and, nude to
the hips, I was soon enjoying a lather. Finding the atmosphere very
stuffy, I told my servant to throw back one side of the canvas, thereby
admitting what breeze there was.
He did so; when, what was my surprise on finding myself face to
face with some twenty natives of both sexes squatting around my
tent. On beholding me, their tongues were loosened, and they uttered
exclamations indicative of wonder and delight.
My first impulse was to have the opening closed again; but it
was a very hot day, and after all, if my ablutions afforded them
satisfaction, there was no harm done. Inwardly I was convulsed with
laughter, which I managed, however, to control with the aid of my towel
and soap.
They watched me dress and brush my hair with the same interest, and
were unfeignedly sorry when the operation was concluded, and I stood
before them clothed and severe. Then it was that they beckoned my
servant, to whom they imparted their strong desire to possess some of
that wonderful stuff, which would make them white also.
He gave them a cake of soap which they examined with extreme curiosity,
and departed. During the rest of the day, applications for soap, coming
chiefly from the women, were numerous.
The account I gave of the scene at breakfast evoked much merriment.