KINA BALU, viâ TAMPASSUK.
Preparations--"Salaamat jelan," or safe voyage--Contrary
winds--A total wreck--A sea bath--Making the best of it--Native
visitors from the Bornean shore--Drying stores--Pigeon
shooting--Foraging--Football--Tent life--A new boat--A marine
visitor--Pulo Tiga--A fish dinner--Shore plants--Big fish--The
Tampassuk--"The Fatted Calf"--Start for Kina Balu--Bare
hills--Land culture--Bad roads--Ghinambaur village--Textile
fibres--A chance shot--Thrifty natives--Buffalo riding--A
friendly chief--Sineroup--Native wealth--Charms--Crossing
swollen river--New Orchids--Kambatuan--Rokos--Butterflies--Koung
Green--Aboriginals from the interior--Pretty weeds--Lemoung's
death--Native ornaments--Native cloth--Bee keeping--How to manage
"guides"--"Kurow"--Start for "Kina Balu"--Sleeping rock--Dusun
cookery!--New plants--More of the "guide" nuisance.
It was now the end of July, and I had been waiting four or five days,
expecting the arrival of the steam-ship Far East, in which I had hoped
to have again taken a passage, with my friend, Captain W. C. Cowie; but
as his vessel was now overdue, and my own time was limited, I resolved
to leave in a native boat at all hazards. I soon chartered a prahu,
large enough to carry twenty men, and our stores; and on July 31st I
was ready to start. I had given my Chinese "boy," Kimjeck, and the men
orders to have all in readiness; but when I reached the little jetty,
at two P.M., I found only half the men there, the remainder being as
busy as bees on shore, running in and out of the Chinese shops, buying
betel-nut, salt, dried fish, onions, and other private stores for the
voyage. As soon as they saw me, however, they came running down, and we
all went on board. Altogether our craft was heavily laden; but as these
native boats are generally carefully built, we saw nothing to fear.
At 3.30 we bade our friends, who had kindly come down to see us start,
"good-bye;" and, amid the cries of "Salaamat jelan!" from the men's
friends on shore, we hove anchor, and sheered off with a tolerably
good wind. We soon got our large mat-sail hauled up, and with the
Union Jack astern (we carried the "mails" for Tampassuk by the way),
glided out of the harbour, and, rounding the old flagstaff-point,
steered nearly due north. We did this, intending to stand out, and make
"Pulo Tiga," an island lying about forty miles northward of Labuan,
by the morning. In this, however, we were doomed to disappointment;
for after an hour or two of indifferent sailing, a bit of a squall
arose, and the wind having changed, we hove in shore, towards Lumbedan,
intending to anchor under the shelter of a little islet of the same
name for the night, and start away in the early morning.
This was now the only judicious course left us, since we were close
in-shore, on a dangerous coast, and the squall of wind and rain
was coming down on us like a hurricane. Our men pulled in around the
island, and were approaching the shore, to enable us to land, when the
boat rose a little on the surf, and the next moment her bows came down
on a rock, and this knocked a large hole in her bottom. We subsequently
found out that all her lower timbers were rotten. Happily we were
not far from the land, and could make ashore, or the consequences
might have been serious. As it was we suffered enough, being drenched
with rain and surf; and as the boat rolled about, and filled rapidly,
most of our things got drenched likewise. As is usual with Malays on
such occasions, there was a great deal of excitement, and everybody
shouted orders or instructions to his neighbour.
However, Smith, an excellent fellow Mr. Boosie had allowed to accompany
me, and one or two natives, handed out our clothes and personal
effects, which others carried ashore, after which we got out the bags
of rice, and other stores all safely, and having emptied the craft
of all her loose gear, we hauled her up on the smooth sandy beach,
and then, as it was getting dusk, set about preparing ourselves a
habitation for the night. Some of the men were sent to cut firewood,
others to cut timbers for our hut; others went to search for water,
while my "boy," hastily securing a few dry sticks, lighted a fire,
and began preparing our evening meal.
We had with us plenty of the common "kajang" mats, which may be
purchased in Labuan for a few pence each, and serve admirably for
roofing boats, or the little jungle-houses, for which a Malay will
cut and fix timbers in a few minutes. We had also a good oil-cloth,
twelve feet square; and in less than an hour after our shipwreck
we had a roomy tent erected in which to eat and sleep. We soon got
on some dry clothes, and then had our bedding placed at one end,
with our baggage piled up behind, and at the other end our rice and
dried fish, goods for barter with the natives, and other stores,
were arranged. The guns, rifle, and the tower-muskets, carried by
the men, together with our revolvers, &c., were cleaned, and oiled,
and suspended overhead; and the lamp being lighted, and hung in the
centre, we began to look quite cheerful.
We had our dinner about seven o'clock, and then a smoke and a chat
over our misadventure. Several men came over from the opposite coast
of Lumbedan, where there are a few native houses, to look at us; and I
asked them to bring over a boat in the morning, which they very civilly
promised to do. About nine o'clock we sought our blankets, and turned
in for the night, and slept well, notwithstanding our recent mishap.
August 1st.--We were all astir by daybreak this morning; and, after
having had our customary cup of coffee and dry toast, we set our
followers to work to spread out the wet rice on mats in the sun, and
to rearrange all our stores. Some of the men were sent to cut down
"nebong" palms, the young tops of which form a delicious vegetable
when boiled, and others were employed in cleaning our arms, cutting
fire-wood, and other necessary work. While this was going on, I
took my gun, and went out on a stroll around our little island. The
vegetation I found was rather dense, and the whole surface rocky. I
noticed several species of palms, and an epiphytal fern or two,
and plants of the white-flowered Dendrobium crumenatum hung here and
there on the trees.
I shot two of the beautiful white island pigeon (Carpophaga bicolor),
called "Pragam pulo" by the natives, and a larger species, of an ash
colour (C. ænea), the wings and neck being shot with purple and bronze
tints. This is a very large and handsome bird, common in Borneo,
and when cooked, is very good eating. On my return to the tent I
found the man from the coast had brought over his boat, as promised,
and I at once sent it off, with eleven of my men, with a letter to
Mr. A. Boosie, the manager of the coal mines in Labuan, asking him
to lend me one of his boats, in which to continue my journey.
It is a lovely day to-day, and our rice and clothes are getting
dry again. "Kimjeck," after he had done his work this morning,
started off on a collecting excursion, and has just returned, with a
couple of broad-tailed, dusky-coloured rock-snakes, one a very fine
specimen. Beetles and butterflies, he tells me, are alike unobtainable,
and he can find no flowers, so that we can do no collecting on the
island. Knowing that it will be night at the earliest ere our own men
can possibly return with the boat, I and Smith went over to Lumbedan
with some natives, who had come in a boat to look at us, and had a
walk in the tall forest, which forms a back-ground to the houses near
the shore. Here we found the "nebong" palm attaining to a large size;
and some woodcutters promised to cut us a few young tops by the time
of our return.
This forest, although originally rich in plants, like that of
Labuan, has suffered severely during recent years from the now ever
recurring jungle-fires of the dry monsoon. We could find nothing of
interest. A large-leaved crinum grows in the sand by the shore; and a
scarlet-flowered ixora with narrow foliage, was blooming here and there
in patches. We shot a long-tailed paroquet, and a blue kingfisher,
the only birds we saw, and retraced our steps to the village just
before sunset. We were thoroughly tired, and rested here some time,
watching the young Kadyans playing at football on the beach. The
players stand in a circle, three or four yards in diameter, and the
ball is kicked in the air by the player to whom it falls nearest. To
do this properly requires great dexterity, as the ball is struck
with the sole of the foot; and a party of good players will thus
keep a ball in the air for several minutes by each kicking it upwards
just as it is about to fall. The ball itself is a light hollow one,
of rattan open-work, about the size of an ordinary cricket-ball;
and the game closely resembles shuttlecock, as played in China.
Having obtained our palm-tops, we purchased some eggs, cucumbers,
and fine ripe water-melons from the woodcutters, whom we had passed
in the forest in the morning, and then waded across to our quarters
on the island, which we could now do, as it was low water. It was
becoming dusk, and we were glad to throw ourselves down on our rugs,
and rest a little before we ate our frugal repast. During our absence
my "boy" has "tidied up" the tent, and it now looks quite cosy and
comfortable, being dry and sheltered, although on two sides the sea
washes up to within a few feet of us at high water. The soft yellow
mats are pleasantly enlivened with our rugs and scarlet blankets, the
rifle-barrels glisten above our heads, and the smoke curls gracefully
upwards from our cooking-fires on the beach. Just as it was dark
we heard our men shouting; and soon after six of them came in with
the borrowed prahu, and told us that their companions were following
them in the large boat, which Mr. Boosie had kindly lent to us. This
was good news; and we ate our dinner in high spirits. In about an
hour's time the men came in with the boat, and we hauled her up high
and dry on the sandy shore before retiring for the night. With the
boat I was cheered by letters from several of my friends in Labuan,
all of whom were sorry to hear of our disaster.
August 2nd.--A lovely morning. We were up before daybreak, and soon
had our boat launched, and all our goods and stores safely stowed away,
ready for starting. About seven o'clock we got away, with a good breeze
behind us, and then we took our breakfast in a little deck-cabin,
which our men had cleverly rigged up for us with a few crooked sticks,
tied firmly with rattans, and covered with kajang mats, thus forming a
capital shelter from sun and rain. Not feeling very well, I lay down,
and fell asleep, but was soon awakened by a consternation among the
men, and much shouting. A refractory fish was the cause of all the
noise, the steersman having hooked him; but the fish was large, and
objected to come on board. After much trouble they hauled in their
capture, and a fine fellow it was, fully thirty pounds weight.
We were very comfortable in our new craft, which sailed well; and
although the wind slackened considerably about noon, we reached Pulo
Tiga before sunset, and went ashore to cook our dinner and lay in
a fresh stock of firewood and water. Half-a-dozen fires were soon
alight, and we took our guns, and went for a walk, but failed to get
a shot. We caught sight of some large hornbills; they were, however,
too wary to allow us within range.
This island is a large one, without any inhabitants, except now and
then a few Chinese woodcutters, or native fishermen. Native boats from
Sulu or Palawan frequently call for wood and water; and the remains of
numerous fires occur among the drift wood along the beach. Wild pigs
are very plentiful, and turtle are also found here. From a distance the
island is seen to consist of three rounded hills, covered with forest;
hence its native name "tiga," or "teega," signifying three in the Malay
language. We returned to dinner with hearty appetites, and thoroughly
enjoyed a portion of the fish we had captured in the morning. My "boy,"
who acted as cook, had forgotten to inquire how he should prepare it;
and so, to make sure, he had divided our share, boiling one-half,
and the other he cleverly roasted over the clean embers of a wood-fire.
Hungry as we were, salmon from an Irish stream, cooked fresh over a
fire of strawberry-tree wood (Arbutus), could not have tasted more
delicious. The wind had now completely died away, and the current
setting in strong against us, we anchored in a sheltered bay until
the morning.
August 3rd.--Awoke about three A.M., and finding a fresh breeze
springing up, we aroused our men, and got up sail. In about an hour,
however, the wind dropped, and the men had to take to their paddles. We
had a nice view of the coast just after sunrise, and we also saw Kina
Balu very distinctly. We had changeable winds all day, but managed
to reach Gaya Bay about five o'clock; and, as wind and current were
now against us, and the men were tired with paddling most of the day,
we went ashore on one of the islands to cook, and resolved to remain
here all night, or until a favourable breeze sprang up, which we
might expect at any time after sunset. Here, as at Pulo Tiga, the
beach is sandy, and is fringed with tall casuarina trees, through
which the winds sigh as mournfully as they do through the leaves of
a pine forest here at home.
The broad-leaved pandan (Pandanus dubius) is common here, having a
tall, cylindrical trunk, like a cocoa-nut palm, and bearing a branched
crown of dark-green leaves. Here also we could obtain plenty of nebong
tops; and on waste patches, near the shore, Tacca pinnatifida grew
abundantly. This plant is interesting, as affording a kind of starch,
much used as food by the South Sea Islanders, but not valued here,
where rice is plentiful. Here we found plenty of the large blue pigeon;
and although they were very wild, we managed to shoot two or three;
and these, with the fresh palm-tops, were a great gain to our culinary
department.
August 4th.--Again a beautiful sunrise. We pulled from under the lee
of the island about six o'clock, and stood out on our course, with
a slight breeze. Off the mouth of the Menkabong river we came upon a
tiny fleet of native boats, the owners of which were fishing with hook
and line. We found out that they were some of Pangeran Rau's people,
a chief who holds the country around Qualla Menkabong, and at whose
house I had stayed on a former journey into the interior. We were
glad to purchase some freshly-caught fish from these people, which
we afterwards enjoyed for breakfast. Fried in a little pure oil,
and sprinkled with a little oatmeal, they were very nice. Palm-tops
boiled formed a delicate vegetable accompaniment to them.
We are five days out to-day; and as our bread, which we of course
brought with us, is beginning to turn mouldy, my "boy" has dipped
each of the remaining little loaves in water, and is busy baking it
afresh on a tin plate over the embers. Treated in this way, our old
bread is really very nice; indeed, not a bad substitute for hot rolls.
One of our men had a line out astern all the morning as usual, but
never perceived a nibble until about 1.30 P.M., when there was a
sudden commotion, owing to his being nearly jerked out of the boat by
a large fish, which had taken his bait. The fish was fairly hooked,
but the men had a good deal of trouble to haul him in. He was a
splendid capture, fully fifty pounds or more in weight; and it took
two men all their time to lift him into the boat, even after a spear
had been driven through him. We all admired him very much as he lay
on deck; indeed, half a hundred weight of good fresh fish would be
welcome anywhere. It was of a variety, called "Linko" by the Malays,
and in general appearance reminded one of a fine salmon.
A little later in the day another kind, about half the size of the
last, was caught, this being called "Tingerie." We reached the mouth
of the Abai about 5.30 P.M., and tried hard to make the mouth of the
Tampassuk ere dark, in which we failed; and after being tossed about
for an hour in vainly endeavouring to get over the bar, our men were
glad to pull back to a little island, near Qualla Abai, where we could
land to cook, and anchor for the night. It was a lovely, moonlight
night, and very quiet in our snug little anchorage. We dined and slept
on board, and so escaped the myriads of mosquitoes on the grassy shore.
August 5th.--Awoke at sunrise, the air being deliriously fresh and
cool, and the sky clear. We were glad to get a very good view of Kina
Balu this morning, the long rocky ridge standing out first purple,
and then blue, against the sky, while fleecy masses of silvery clouds
were ever changing their position on its rugged sides.
After a delicious bath in a little fresh-water pool near the shore,
and breakfast, we pulled to the Qualla Tampassuk, and found a strong
current coming over the bar. Our men pulled over, however, all right;
and then came a good five hours' pull up the river before we reached
the old quarters of Rajah Muda, now occupied by Mr. Pretyman, who had
come to live here a month or two ago, and for whom we had brought
on the mails from Labuan. The whole distance from the bar is only
about five miles; but the river winds much: and, as it was the wet
season, a deal of water coming from the ranges inland had swelled
the river beyond its usual limits, and the men had to pull against
a heavy stream.
The vegetation of the banks is luxuriant; and after pulling a
mile or two, native dwellings, and cultivated patches of bananas,
cocoa-nut trees, tapioca, maize, and other products appear. We
reached Mr. Pretyman's residence about 1.30 P.M., and found him and
his people tolerably well in health and spirits. He was surprised
and pleased at our unexpected visit, and promptly ordered his men to
kill a fine young bullock for ourselves and men. After luncheon we
crossed the river and walked to the top of the adjacent coast-hills,
from whence a good view of the winding stream and surrounding country
is obtainable. These bare grassy hills rise out of the plain, which
serves as pasturage for a few buffaloes, and here and there patches
are irrigated for rice culture. I made a small collection of the
herbaceous plants, annuals, and grasses of the hill we ascended; and
on the top we found a round-headed tree, which bore edible fruits,
remarkably like walnuts in form and flavour.
In descending, we came across plants of a very lovely gardenia,
forming bushes, varying from a foot to two feet in height, and
bearing large white flowers in the axils of its glossy leaves. A
gentle spring-like shower was falling in the last rays of sunlight,
and the perfume of this dainty flower was most balmy and delicious,
quite unlike the odour of any other plant I ever saw. On my return
from the mountain I was careful to secure plants of this species,
and they reached London quite safely three months afterwards. As it
was now dusk we returned to dinner, and spent a very pleasant evening,
talking over home news, and our plans for reaching Kina Balu.
August 6th.--We were up at sunrise and set to work in packing our
stores into suitable parcels for each man to carry, and we hired two
buffaloes so as to be able to carry an extra supply of rice. These
details took time, and it was fully noon ere we bade our host farewell
and were fairly started on our journey. Our guide and buffalo driver
was an intelligent Malay, named Abdul Rathman, who knew the country
well. Our first stopping place was to have been Ghinambaur, but as we
were late in starting we failed to reach that village before dark,
and had to stay at some Dusun huts by the way. At first our way lay
through the plain, and here the roads, or rather tracks, through
the tall coarse grass were frequently knee deep in mud and water;
then we crossed some low hills of red sandstone which were nearly
destitute of herbage, owing to the earth being washed off the rock
by heavy rains. In places the tracks over these hills were more like
drains than anything, and during a heavy shower the water rushes down
these water-worn runnels carrying every atom of soil or pulverised
rock into the plains below, so that these last consist of a rich
alluvial deposit, well adapted for rice and tapioca culture.
On the second range of these low hills is a Badjow village, most of the
houses being much exposed, without a tree or any kind of shelter. The
rain came down in torrents as we passed this place, and some of our
Labuan men took shelter from the cold rain and wind which was indeed
very piercing. We had to cross some rice fields, in one of which
a man was ploughing. The plough was of wood, shaped something like
an old English plough in the beam, but with only one handle, and no
coulter, wheel, or share-board. This was drawn by a solitary water
buffalo, and rooted up the greasy black earth to a depth of five or
six inches. At one side of the field we saw a rude harrow formed of
bamboo stems lashed together, the side shoots being cut at about six
inches from the stem, and these act as prongs to scarify the soil. The
whole system of land culture here is very rude, and yet it is far
in advance of that practised by natives anywhere else in Borneo, if
we except the plain near the banks of the Tawaran river, a few miles
further to the south. Passing the last group of Badjow houses we came
to the river again and found it running rather high, the water being
much discoloured by the earthy matter washed down from the hills during
rains. This was the beginning of difficulties, for we had to unload the
buffaloes in order to prevent our rice from being wetted, and then we
rode them across, while the men carried the packages on their heads,
and held on by the saddle-gear or tails of the animals. After piloting
across one detachment in this way we returned for the others, and so
managed to get all the men over safely, and keep the goods dry. Our
road got worse and worse, now through tall coarse grasses which,
arching overhead, nearly excluded daylight, then through bits of forest
where one's face was in danger from overhanging boughs and creepers,
crossing dirty streamlets, and clambering over roots and stones,
while in places the path suddenly dropped downwards into a sort of
slimy trough or drain, the sides of which were as high as the saddle,
and down which one's buffalo slided rather than walked. Of course we
were drenched to the skin, and our clothes, which were nice and white
at starting, were covered with mud, but there was nothing for it but
to keep on, which we did until nightfall, when, finding it impossible
to reach the village of Ghinambaur, we "put up" at some field huts,
and in the absence of mosquitoes, passed a comfortable night on the
floor of one of the huts warmed by a cheerful wood fire.
August 7th.--Arose at 5 A.M. and took breakfast. We had simmered a
piece of beef in a pot over the fire all night with onions, two or
three chilies, a bit of fresh ginger, and just a handful of rice for
thickening, and the result was a very palatable soup; boiled beef
and biscuit completed our meal. We "squared up" with our landlord by
paying a fathom of grey shirting and two black Chinese looking-glasses
for our house (which we had all to ourselves), firewood, and a nice
young fowl for our dinner. About six o'clock I mounted my steed, and
a ride of about two hours brought us to the luxuriant fruit groves
which surround Ghinambaur. We found a scattered village close beside
the river, each house having its own clump of cocoa-nut and other
fruit trees. A mottled-leaved alpinia was common beside our route,
and a pretty climbing plant with opposite leaves, each bearing a
thunbergia-like white flower, was not unfrequently observed among the
grass and low shrubs. A rynchospermum and two species of mussænda
were very conspicuous. One of the last-named was a bushy plant two
to four feet in height, bearing bright orange-scarlet flowers among
its dark glossy foliage, each flower being set off by a pure white
bract nearly as large as one's hand. As seen among the grass this
plant was very distinct and effective. Its congener is a climbing
species not nearly so showy.
We rested in a Dusun house for an hour awaiting our stragglers, two of
whom were sick. Whilst waiting we spread out our rice to dry, as it had
become damp, doubtless owing to the drenching rain of yesterday. Our
hostess was a rather attractive Dusun girl, whose husband was away
on a hunting excursion. She was very obliging, and seemed quite
pleased at our visit. The house was small but very neat and clean,
having, moreover, an air of comfort about it not often seen in Dusun
dwellings. Among other goods we noticed netting needles of wood,
similar in principle to our own, together with excellent fishing nets,
weaving instruments, by means of which a strong and durable cloth
is made from the macerated fibre of a species of curculigo called
"lamba" by the natives. This is afterwards dyed with native grown
indigo. Water bottles of bamboo, sieves and fans of different kinds
used in cleaning rice, well made baskets of rattan-cane, knives and
choppers were also represented, and we especially noted an excellent
adze lashed to its shaft by neat rattan work. This implement is used
in cutting and trimming planks from the large forest trees, saws being
unknown here. I noticed a small basket of true cotton of excellent
staple, but it is not much used, "lamba" fibre being obtainable in
any quantity from the jungle without any trouble, and its fibre is
more readily worked with the help of rude implements. For sewing
thread we found our hostess using the fibre of pine-apple leaves
(Ananassa sativa), which serves the purpose well. This plant must
have been introduced to Borneo many years ago, for it has become
thoroughly naturalised, apparently wild, indeed, and not even jungle
fires seem able to destroy it. In the Philippine Islands the plant
is common, although the dainty manufactures of "pina" fibre formerly
made there are now to a great extent discontinued. As examples of
skilful handweaving, these "pina" fabrics are even superior to the
celebrated hats of Panama, and a dress made in the best manner would
cost from a hundred to three hundred guineas.
The villagers who accompanied the "Orang Kaya," or headman, on his
visit to us a short time after our arrival, were very much interested
in our firearms, and begged of me to "shoot something." To please
them, I took a chance shot with a Snider rifle belonging to Smith,
and brought down a couple of cocoa-nuts which hung on a tree about
one hundred yards off. There was a general rush to pick up the fallen
nuts, and the blackened place where the ball had struck was examined
with much astonishment.
We now marshalled our followers and again made a start on our way. We
found the roads awfully wet and slippery, and in about half an hour's
time it rained in torrents, and the river being now so swollen and
turbulent that there was no hope of our being able to cross it to-day
we had to pull up at a little village called Buramhangan. The house
where we stayed was about one hundred feet above the river, which we
could hear rushing and roaring all night. We were soon surrounded by
the villagers, most of them young people, and remarkably handsome. The
men, especially, had very regular features, dark expressive eyes,
and their jet black hair when free from the loose coil in which it is
generally worn hung down as low as the waist in lustrous masses which
a woman might envy. They appeared to be very thrifty, and had abundance
of poultry, swine, and buffaloes. Their manufactures seem to be cloth,
baskets, hats, and mats of various kinds, together with fishing nets
(made in exactly the same manner as our own), and household utensils
of bamboo and cocoanut shells.
August 8th.--We awoke just before sunrise. A lovely morning, and
the river has fallen much during the night. We tried to hire another
buffalo from these people, but as they would not come to terms quickly
we had to push on without it, having fully made up our minds to reach
the village of Sineroup ere nightfall. Our path lay up the hill for
about half a mile, and then we bore down hill to the left. The path
was like a drain, and awfully dirty. Smith's buffalo made a bit of a
start, and its girths being loose he and the baggage toppled over into
the long grass and brushwood beside the path. A little further on I
had the same luck, although fortunately for the rice and sleeping-gear
which my beast carried it happened in a dry place. The roads were very
bad, and also the fords, but we plodded steadily onwards, and by four
o'clock P.M. we climbed the hill and were safe at Sineroup. The last
ford but one was rather turbulent, and our men being a long way behind
we did not wait for them, and they did not get in until night-fall. We
stayed here in the headman's house, and found him a jolly fellow
with a striking Chinese physiognomy and vivacious manner. He and
his family gave us a hearty welcome, spread mats for us on a little
raised platform near the window, and gave us a fowl and some rice,
so that we had satisfied our hunger before our men arrived.
We were now fairly into the country of the "Dusun," or "Piasau
Id'an," the meaning of this last literally being "Cocoanut
Villagers." Generally they are a clean-skinned and handsome race, far
superior to their neighbours the "Muruts," who live farther south,
and whose land-culture is but indifferent. So far as I could learn,
polygamy is not practised by these aboriginals, and they always
appear contented and happy. The dwellings which, near the coast,
are generally of "atap," or thatch made from the leaves of the "nipa"
palm (Nipa fruticans), are here nearly entirely of bamboo, the roof
being thatched with "atap" of cocoanut or the sago palm. Here at
Sineroup the headman has a very clean and convenient bamboo-house,
and a good deal of wealth in the shape of brass gongs, large ornamental
water-jars, cooking pots of brass and earthenware, finely worked mats,
&c., while half a dozen sturdy buffaloes are contentedly grazing on
the green below the house. Of pigs, poultry, and domesticated bees,
he has plenty. I had placed my dirty boots outside the house on a
little verandah, and during the night they were either knocked down
by visitors or else fell through below the house. When I asked my
boy for them in the morning, we found that the pigs had eaten up
all but the soles. Luckily I had others, or the loss would have been
one of the worst that could have befallen me, since in all long foot
journeys, and especially in mountain climbing, good boots are of the
first importance.
In the tarippe trees (Artocarpus Blumei) here, we noticed very
ingenious traps of bamboo, set to catch the "basing," a sort
of squirrel or tree-climbing rodent, which plays havoc with this
delicious fruit just as it approaches maturity. At this village
our guide thus far, Abdul Rathman, is to return, so we have engaged
the headman here, "Gantang," to accompany us on our next two days'
journey as far as Kiau, which is the last village on the way to
the mountain. The scarcity of birds and animals is very marked as
we proceed inland. One reason for this may possibly be the absence
of virgin forest, nearly all the country bordering on the Tampassuk
river having been by some means--possibly former cultivation, aided
by jungle fires--stripped of all its primæval forest.
August 9th.--We were up at daybreak, and at once ate our breakfast. As
usual, we had to await the coming of our guides, and it was fully
nine o'clock ere we got fairly started. I notice that many of the
natives here wear semi-circular betel-boxes tied around them, and
charms are very commonly worn. These last are seemingly of the most
varied description, anything seems to do for a charm--shells, teeth,
and bones of animals, seeds, stones, and bits of rock, tiny bells, and
especially a kind of fossil wood called "kayu lagundi," or, "tree of
youth." These are enclosed in the folds of an old kerchief and are tied
around the body. Great confidence is felt by the wearers of certain
good charms, and they are very popular among the Sulu pirates, who
will fight like demons, believing themselves to be invulnerable. All
the villagers had come down to see us start, and they followed us down
to the river, which is not far from the houses. Rain during the night
had caused the current to run strong and high, and none of our men dare
venture across. We had a rope for such emergencies, and my interpreter,
a lusty Badjow, named Suong, swam across and tied it fast to a tree. It
was now easy for our men to cross, and we all got over safely. A little
higher up we had to recross again, but the current here was stronger,
and all the goods had to be carried across by our Dusun followers,
who had accompanied "Gantang," the headman of Sineroup. Fortunately
nobody was drowned, but the time occupied in crossing was so long
and we were all so tired with our exertions that we were glad to
stay at a wayside village instead of going on to Kambatuan as we had
desired. We saw a good many attractive plants to-day, but unfortunately
the dangerous difficulties of our journey left us but little time for
collecting. And yet, although hungry and fatigued to a degree which no
one can imagine who has not travelled in a tropical land without roads
or bridges, one could but feel enthusiasm as ferns of filmy beauty,
orchids of curious structure and vivid colours, graceful glumales,
flowering shrubs and palms, met our eager eyes for the first time.
One of my first "finds" this morning was a singular bolbophyllum,
which grew on the branch of a tree over a stream, and which,
as I had from the first suspected, has turned out to be "quite
new." It has been named, in gratitude to the Hon. P. Leys, M.B.,
Colonial Surgeon of Labuan, B. Leysianum, Rchb. f. Its structure is
so very extraordinary that nothing but an engraving could give any
adequate idea of its characteristics. A creamy flowered dendrobium
(D. cerinum, Rchb. f.), grew on trees here and there, bearing its
flowers in clusters, and a dwarf cymbidium (C. Spinksianum, Rchb. f.),
was also met with in bloom, as also was a white-blossomed ixora,
bearing pendulous compound clusters of fragrant blossoms. A curious
strong-growing vanilla draped trees in most places, and on some wet
mossy rocks beside a rushing torrent, a glossy-leaved phalænopsis
(P. luteola) displayed its golden blossoms, each sepal and petal
mottled with cinnabar. Coelogynes were everywhere abundant on trees
and rocks alike, and on the latter overhanging the streams hung masses
of a waxy-leaved æschynanthus, bearing axillary clusters of crimson,
black-striped flowers, each standing erect from a gracefully modelled
purple chalice. Ferns and mosses hung on the dripping river rocks in
glorious profusion. Numerous, indeed, were fair Flora's temptations
to lingering dalliance on our way, but we had an ulterior object
in this journey which nothing must interfere with. Our mission was
to push onward, letting nothing hinder our march--difficulties and
inclinations must alike be conquered if we would that our journey be
crowned with success!
Kambatuan reached, wet and fagged, we were glad of a change of
clothing, preceded by a brisk rub with a dry towel, ere we thought
of food. Our guides had selected a roomy house, and we soon had a
cheerful wood fire ablaze on the hearth, which, as is usual here,
was in the centre of the large public apartment occupied by ourselves
and our retainers. A fowl and some eggs were soon purchased, and our
whilom host was very hospitable, having spread some nicely-worked
mats near the fire, and instructed his daughters to make cigarettes
for us, which, with the kindness which clings to their sex all the
world over, they, seeing that we were strangers, wet and tired, were
nothing loth to do. These cigarettes, under the native name of "rokos,"
were always forthcoming, and are made of tobacco (segope), both grown
and manufactured by these inland people. It is cut very neatly, and
is made up for sale into ropes or rolls a yard or more in length,
these being folded so as to make convenient bundles about nine inches
long. Although not given to trickery, it is customary for these people
to make the rope "core" of refuse tobacco, or of the leaves of kaladi,
or other plants, and over this the really good manufactured tobacco
is wound. The result of this is that the useable produce is not above
one-fourth of the apparent bulk, and although all are well aware of the
subterfuge, and carefully examine every roll of this tobacco before
they purchase it, yet the practice continues year after year. For
smoking, this dark shaggy tobacco is carefully unwound from the "core"
(or "prot," literally stomach), and enfolded in a neat wrapper formed
of the young leaf of the nipa palm, or occasionally in the thin husk of
the maize cobs, both of which serve the purpose of cigarette paper by
burning slowly but freely, producing neither flame nor flavour. There
is scarcely a more national trait observable among Borneans than the
smoking of the "roko." It is the one luxury common to all. From the
Sultan to his meanest subject--male or female--everyone indulges in
smoking them; indeed I have repeatedly seen unweaned infants partaking
of the solace of the breast and of their tiny "rokos" alternately,
both the gift of indulgent Bornean mammas.
August 10th.--All night we could hear the rain pouring down in
torrents, but it cleared up towards morning, and at sunrise all was
beautifully clear and bright. This is the view we obtained of the
mountain as seen this morning at 7 a.m., all the lower part being
obscured by the trees in the foreground. By 7.30 we had breakfasted,
and were on our way. Yesterday had been a most unfortunate day so far
as real progress towards the mountain was concerned, and although all
our guides were loud in their protests that it would be impossible
to cross the streams after the late heavy rain, we were doggedly
determined to go on. We crossed the river twice, and now, at 8.30,
all further progress seems impossible, since we have to cross again,
and this at a place where the river is a boiling torrent nearly five
feet deep. The Dusun themselves seem to have no great difficulty in
crossing, but our Labuan men are afraid. The great difficulty is to
keep one's legs under one in the strong current, and to facilitate
this being done the Dusun often take up a heavy stone and carry
it on one shoulder. Our men bathed here whilst waiting, and most
of them took up a stone and cast it into the water ere they flung
themselves in. This they do to propitiate the "antu," or river god,
who they tell me might otherwise be offended, and afflict them with
sickness. As we sit beside this rushing river, the most gorgeous
butterflies flit here in the chequered shade afforded by overhanging
branches. Yellow, white, and brown species vie with each other in
activity. Now and then the most splendid ornithoptera are seen, their
strong and swift flight resembling that of a bird. One lovely fellow,
fully six inches across the wings, settled on my boot as I remained
motionless watching it. It was of a velvety blackness, with a bold
band of pea-green across the wings. Another species rather smaller has
a band of metallic blue. These delicate insects are generally most
numerous by rivers, or in sunny places by the dry beds of streams,
and, singularly enough, are most abundant during the cool wet monsoon.
August 11th.--A lovely morning, and at sunrise we obtained charming
views of "Kina Balu." The rugged top crags were especially well
defined, as also the sloping plateau, which seemingly forms the
watershed for one of the highest falls. Apparently we are quite near
to the mountain, and the waterfall is distinctly audible, which does
much to increase the delusion. As the sun's power increased, however,
the view lost its distinctness, and in half an hour's time heavy white
mist clouds had swept around its summit, and all its beauty of tint
and shadow was lost to view. We ate a hurried breakfast, and started
for Koung, a large and prosperous village situated a little to the
south-east of Saduc-Saduc, the mountain ascended by Mr. Thomas Lobb
in 1856. Our way lay diagonally down a hillside drain until we came
to the river, which we forded, and then bore to the left across level
rice-fields and patches of luxuriant kaladi (Caladium esculentum)
and Indian corn, both of which evidently succeed best on these rich
low lying alluvial plains. We crossed the river four or five times
ere we at last found ourselves on the splendid village green of
Koung. This green is a mile or more in length, lying at the foot of
a range of sandstone hills which shelter it from the north, while the
river skirts its southern side, and another hill rises from the river
banks still further southward. It is, in fact, a well watered grassy
plain between two sheltering parallel hill ranges, and affords the
best pasturage for cattle that I have seen anywhere in the East. Of
this the villagers take every advantage, for nowhere have I seen
finer kine and buffaloes than here. We reached the headman's house at
Koung about four o'clock in a drenching downpour of rain. Some trees
beside the stream were draped with a glorious climber, having scarlet
flowers (Bauhinia kochiana), and a glaucous climbing plant, having
lilac flowers, had completely overrun some of the forest trees on the
opposite bank. We took up our quarters in the house of the headman,
"Lapayang," to whom Mr. Veitch and myself had given a Tower musket
on the last journey I made in this direction. I notice that such of
my men as speak the Brunei language can converse with the Dusun very
readily after a few days' residence amongst them. This fact was noted
by Mr. St. John, and from what I know of the language myself after
a year's residence, and aided by vocabularies carefully collected,
I believe the language of these people is intermediate between that
spoken in the capital, Brunei, and that of the Sulus. Bees-wax
and caoutchouc or rubber are frequently offered for barter as we
pass through the villages. "Lapayang" welcomed us in his own way by
firing a salute, and a gong was beaten to announce our arrival. I was
sorry to find that his father had died since my last visit, when he
had received us with many expressions of good-will, and told us of
Mr. Low's first visit to the mountain, which he remembered well. As
we had arrived before our supplies, "Lapayang" brought us some rice
and a fowl as a present, and one of his sisters gave us some eggs and
a fine cluster of bananas. I felt thankful when we arrived at Koung,
since I knew the way from this place to the mountain quite well, and
had not to trust to lazy guides, who have not the slightest idea of
time or its value to the traveller. My buffalo also had reason to be
glad, for here the plucky little beast had the luxury of good herbage
on which to feed, a much better thing for him than the miscellaneous
browsing afforded by our former halting places. The river runs about
fifty yards from our quarters, and is very much swollen, having in
many places overflowed its banks. Capital shooting may be had here
at the large blue pigeons which roost in the trees beside the river,
quite close to the houses.
August 12th.--Again a lovely morning as we crossed the ford just at
the end of the village and pushed on for Kiau. The road lies by the
sides of the river most of the way until the turn to the left is taken
up the open rice-fields, which lie below the last-named village. We
crossed this river thirteen times to-day, and some of the crossings
were deep and rapid. Met troops of natives--male and female--mostly
laden with large baskets of tobacco, which they were taking down to
the villages nearer the coast to barter for cloth, knives, and other
goods, as no traders appear to venture further inland than the first
Dusun villages. Most of the men were armed with a long slender-shafted
spear, which is especially useful to them in fording the streams. In
addition they had the "parang," a sort of scimetar-shaped sword,
having a good keen edge. This is slung to a broad belt worn sash-wise
over one shoulder, the part which crosses the breast being ornamented
with cowrie shells sewn on very thickly. I was very glad when we
reached the little farms of the Kiau villagers, and could see their
dwellings and palm-trees in the distance. In some of the clearings the
crimson-leaved dracæna (D. terminalis) was conspicuous. It has here
slender stems five or six feet in height, each terminated by a tuft
of bright coloured leaves. Going up the hill slowly, I made a little
collection of the weeds found among the rice and kaladi crops. Among
these were two pretty little plants of the daisy family (Compositæ),
the one with purple and the other with yellow florets. A tiny species
of torenia formed spreading tufts of purplish leaves and stems,
and bore rather pretty purple and white flowers. A woolly-leaved
gnaphalium attaining a foot in height, and bearing dense clusters of
yellow immortelle-like flowers, was especially noticeable. There are
numerous springs of cool water, clear as crystal, in this hillside,
and these are brought down to the path in tiny troughs or aqueducts
of bamboo, so that one has only to stoop very slightly to drink, and
water-vessels are readily replenished. The whole hillside is dotted
with flat-roofed field-huts of clean yellow bamboo. These afford
shelter during the mid-day siesta enjoyed by the workers in the field,
who are for the most part women and children. Tiny streamlets are met
with now and then, and in favourable spots the most graceful tree-ferns
of the primæval jungle still linger, although fully exposed to the
hot sun. The lower parts of their black trunks, however, are shaded
by coarse herbage, and their roots revel among the earth, débris, and
wet stones below. In some places the wet earth and stones beside these
streams were carpeted with lovely mosses, and of these several rare
kinds in good condition were obtained. We met one of my old guides,
"Kurow" (see p. 97), this morning as we came along. He came up to me
laughing and vociferating loudly. "Soung," who interprets Dusun for me,
says that he wants me to understand that he, "Kurow," is glad to see
me again, and that he will do all he can to help me. We reached the
village about three o'clock in a dense white mist, and it commenced
raining heavily a few minutes after our arrival. Among the plants we
saw to-day was a splendid large bolbophyllum (B. petreianum). A vanda
grew on the trees overhanging the river, but was not in bloom. The
deliciously-perfumed snow-white flowers of Dendrobium crumenatum,
which were especially beautiful on the immense boulders of granite on
the green at Koung, was also often met with to-day, and at one of the
fords a large-growing coelogyne (C. racemosa) bore drooping spikes
of yellow and white flowers, the entire inflorescence being nearly a
yard in length. While my boy was cooking dinner I made sketches of
the most peculiar plants of botanical interest met with en route,
much to the surprise--I might almost say awe--of the natives,
who crowded around me and watched every line--and especially the
colouring--with great interest. I was surprised at the small number
of women who came to see us in comparison with those who flocked into
the house when we were last here. I found, however, that this was
owing to their being away engaged in rice planting and other field
labour. The headman of this village, named "Lemoung," had died since
my last visit, and we saw his grave on the little hill just as we
entered the village. A little hut had been erected over it, and this
was decorated with eight little streamers of white cloth. His son,
"Boloung," now "reigns in his stead." When we took our evening meal
most of the women had returned from work, and the house was crowded,
and the greatest curiosity was evinced as our plates, knives, forks,
and glasses were spread out glitteringly in the lamplight. These people
are very different from the Malays of the coast, and never tired of
laughing and talking about ourselves and our goods. The women are not
in the least secluded, and are far better proportioned, as well as
more amiable and industrious, than are their Malayan sisters. Their
clothes consist of a "sarong," or short petticoat, fastened around
the waist, and reaching to the knees, and a strip of black cloth is
bound over the breast. Their ornaments consist of brass wristlets and
anklets. Necklets of beads or brass wire are also worn, and over the
breasts, as also around the waist, coils of rattan cane dyed black
or red are worn. Ferrule-like pieces of tin are often strung on these
rattan coils, and strings of beads are also worn around the waist. Ear
ornaments are generally of wood, and as large as a wine-cork. Both
men and women have holes pierced in their ears, but these are not
unfrequently utilised as cigarette-holders, much in the same way as the
Zulu Kaffirs at the Cape carry snuff-boxes in their ears. Everywhere
here inland we find the native cloth is made from the "lamba" fibre
dyed a deep blue-black with native indigo. I procured specimens of
this fibre-weaving apparatus, and prepared cloth, and these may now be
seen in the large Economic Museum at Kew. After dinner "Kurow," our
old guide, and "Boloung," the headman of this village, came in with
the avowed purpose of having a chat. They were particularly anxious
to hear about the white man who had come to live on the Tampassuk
river (Mr. Pretyman), who they had been told intended to make them
all pay tribute, which was evidently unpleasant news to them. They
also wanted to know where I had been since I left their village,
and were very much interested in all I told them about the Sultan of
Sulu. The house was full of people of all ages, who had come to see
us, and among them were a party from a village three days' journey
inland. These were on their way to the coast villages to trade. The
produce they had with them was tobacco, bees-wax, india-rubber, and
a little "lamba" cloth and raw cotton. These people had never seen a
white man before, and seemed rather interested in all we did; and in
the accounts their Dusun neighbours gave them of us and our doings,
the gist of which was that we came from a large prahu, or ship,
to dig up grass and shoot birds, that we ate and drank all sorts of
curious things, but singularly enough, as they thought, would not
eat rats or tiger-cats, these being esteemed great delicacies here
by the native trappers. Here, at Kiau, as at all the Dusun villages
along our way, we noticed large quantities of tame or domesticated
bees. These are kept in cylindrical hives formed of a hollow tree
trunk, and are placed on a shelf fixed under the overhanging eaves
of the houses. In several instances the hives were on shelves inside
the houses, a hole being made through the "ataps" corresponding with
the hole in the hive, so as to allow of egress and ingress, a plan
similar to that adopted by the bee-keeping natives of Kashmir.
August 13th.--I and Smith have been busy all morning, overhauling
our stores and goods, and getting ready for our going up the mountain
to-morrow. Our rice had suffered from damp, but as we find we can buy
some here, it does not matter so much. Several fowls were also brought
in for sale this morning, so that we are not likely to starve. Having
put all our gear into order after our seven days' march, we took our
guns and a couple of men, and took the path leading eastward, which led
us across one or two rice and vegetable plots, in which tobacco plants
were growing freely, and at last we crossed a recent clearing and
reached the forest, which crests the spur or hill range on which the
village of Kiau stands. We turned northwards and climbed the hillside,
which was stiff work, being in places nearly perpendicular. Here I
found a pretty foliage plant, having strap-shaped leaves six inches
in length, glossy green, boldly variegated with silver-white above,
while the underside of the leaves was of a deep blood colour. Of this
I gathered as much as I desired, and a wild plantain or banana growing
near, I cut one down, and packing my plants close together in damp
moss and earth, I enveloped them in the cool moist sheathing layers of
the banana stem. Thus packed, they occupy but little space, and are
easily carried without risk of damage by drought or friction. Saw
several coelogynes in flower on the surrounding trees, but other
orchids seemed scarce. I made a collection of ferns, mosses, &c.,
for drying, but nothing striking from a horticultural point of view
was seen. We gained the crest of the ridge after an hour's hard work,
and followed it eastward for two or three miles, but without any change
in the vegetation. On returning, we did not descend the way we came,
but followed the crest in a westward direction, and from one point we
got a capital view of one of the waterfalls on the mountain. It was
now becoming misty, however, and we returned to the village, which we
reached just in time to avoid a drenching, for the rain came down in
torrents. I sent one of my men to fetch "Kurow," and when he came I
told him I wanted to bargain with him to take me to the mountain in
the morning. He at first said he couldn't bargain, because "Boloung,"
the headman, was out. He had scarcely spoken, however, before "Boloung"
himself entered from the other end of the house. Finding this loophole
closed, he said he could not bargain to-day, because it was an unlucky
day to him. He had visited all his traps and snares this morning, he
said, and there was nothing caught, adding that he knew it before he
started; this was his bad day. "Boloung" said they would come in and
bargain in the morning. Fortunately I was not entirely dependent on
them, and could have found the way myself, intricate as it is. Anyone
who had not travelled here before, however, is entirely dependent on
these people as guides, and their utter disregard of the value of time
is perplexing enough to a stranger with limited supplies of food for
himself and followers. It was these people who turned back Mr. Thomas
Lobb when he attempted to ascend Kina Balu from this village in 1856,
and the moral force of a well-armed and rather imposing party is
still necessary in order to keep their avarice within moderate bounds,
and to obtain from them the little assistance necessary. When Mr. Low
ascended the mountain in 1851, he gave many presents to these people,
and even now the wealth the village obtained through his visit is
much talked of among the hill villagers. When Mr. Lobb was there,
five years later, he had but a small party of followers, and not being
prepared to pay in cloth and other goods so liberally as Mr. Low had
done, they refused to help him, and he was compelled to leave without
ascending the mountain, as he had desired to do. Even in 1858 Mr. Low
and Mr. S. St. John had to "guard carefully against pilferers," and had
a little hostility to contend with as well. On their second expedition,
in the same year, however, they experienced a better reception. Some
years later, I believe in 1866, an Italian expedition came here
for natural history purposes, and the Dusun account is that they
ascended 6,000 feet. This expedition, according to native accounts,
paid twice as much as was necessary, a precedent which gives these
hill villagers an excuse for extortion. When I and Mr. Peter Veitch
came here, eight months ago, we had a well-armed force at our backs,
and we taught the Kiau people how to moderate their desires by paying
a just price for all they gave or sold to us, and for all services
performed, but we gave no presents. Livingstone [7] deprecates the
system of giving presents in his first work on travel, and he is
not the only traveller who has had reason to complain of a mode of
procedure which invariably causes inconvenience to others. These
people were always well-disposed towards us, and this time I find
our plan was a good one, for there is no misunderstanding; fowls,
rice, and other provisions are far more easily procurable now, since
the natives know that all will be fairly paid for, whereas under the
old system their object was to give a small present in the hope of
receiving something far more valuable.
August 14th.--"Kurow" came in this morning, and commenced to "bargain"
cautiously by asking to see the goods we were willing to pay for
guides. "Suong," our interpreter, who was an adept at trading, spread
out some cloth and other things to the value of a few shillings, and
after a deal of talking an agreement was arrived at by "Kurow" and
"Boloung" consenting to accompany us in return for these things and an
old coat of mine, upon which "Kurow" had cast longing eyes ever since
my arrival. Among the goods was an entire length--twenty-six yards--of
grey shirting, and this was brought back for me to divide into two
halves, each of these dusky chiefs seeming firmly convinced that the
other would "best" him if possible. Having, after some slight trouble,
divided the cloth to their liking, and handed them the other goods
in pre-payment, another difficulty arose, both declaring that they
could not start to the mountain to-day, as they had no rice, and must
needs go to the next village to obtain some. By this time all my men
were ready to start, and as I had said I should set out to-day, I was
determined to do so at all risks. I explained to them that they had
plenty of rice in their village, but that if they really wanted more
"Kurow" had better accompany us, and "Boloung" could obtain supplies
and come on after us on the morrow, adding that we should start at
once, and if their agreement was not kept we should of course take
back the goods we had pre-paid them. It must be distinctly understood
that in Borneo pre-payment for goods or services to be rendered is
the national custom, just as it is in South America. In the latter
country the natives who collect the india-rubber or caoutchouc in
Brazil may serve as an illustration of the fact. I left my "boy,"
who was rather unwell, and the only old man in our party, to "abide by
the stuff" in the house, and shouldered my gun and left our guides to
think matters over. We had not proceeded above a mile, however, before
"Kurow" overtook us, and went on ahead as cheerful as possible. After
an hour or two of rough walking on shelving forest-paths, varied here
and there by slippery logs, we came to a mountain-stream, probably
one of the tributaries of the Haya-Haya. Here, in a large stone trap,
the worthy "Kurow" was fortunate enough to find a large wild cat. I
had not spoken to him since he overtook us, but I could not resist
the opportunity of reminding him that this was one of his lucky
days! We crossed here, the water being deliciously fresh and cool,
and another hour's stiff walking brought us over the base of the next
spur, and to our old quarters, the "Sleeping Rock," where we were
to rest for the night. This is a gigantic overhanging boulder near a
foaming torrent. A pretty little maidenhair fern, before alluded to,
grew here in great plenty, and attained the greatest luxuriance among
the débris of former camp fires. Overhead a colony of mason bees
had established themselves, forming multitudes of little rounded
mud nests on the face of the rock, and when we lighted our fires
the smoke disturbed them much. A still greater nuisance, however,
was our guide, "Kurow," who made a fire and commenced to cook his
wild cat by roasting it, hair, skin and all, without the slightest
preparation. When Mr. Veitch and myself slept here during my first
visit, he had two rats--rather high they were too--which he roasted
entire, and ate with great satisfaction! The soil near the bottom of
these immense spurs is very rich, as attested by the luxuriance of
bamboo and species of ginger which are comparatively puny on poor
land. Beside the mountain torrents a pink-spathed aroid (Gamogyne
Burbidgei, N. E. Br.) is common, and rather pretty. A species of
dwarf palm (Areca, sp.), bearing clusters of small scarlet fruits,
is noticeable, and a trailing plant, allied to the jasmines, bore
axillary clusters of white waxy flowers, each having a brown eye-like
spot in its centre. The perfume emitted by its blossoms was delicious,
and resembled that of spring hyacinths. A red-fruited raspberry
(Rubus rosæfolius), and several species of ferns and selaginellas
carpeted the low shady forest along our route. The only bird we saw
was a lyre-tailed shrike of a dark ash colour. Our dinner consisted of
a fowl cut up and boiled with a little rice, and when it was nearly
done we added a small tin of Julienne soup to it, thus securing some
substantial potage, and we were hungry enough to appreciate it at
its full value. A cup of coffee and a cigar made us forget all our
bruises, and knowing the stiff day's work we had for the morrow,
we retired to our blankets early.
August 15th.--We awoke about 5 A.M. and aroused our followers. A
Malay named "Jeludin," acted as cook in the absence of my regular
"boy," and he prepared a very palatable breakfast of the remains of
our dinner, supplemented by nicely boiled rice and dried fish. "Kurow"
breakfasted off wild cat roasted à la Dusun, and a little rice which
we gave him. After breakfast he sat smoking, and "Suong" came and told
me that he would not go up the mountain. On my asking him his reason
for resolving thus, he replied that he could not go because he had no
trowsers, nor coat, nor head-cloth. I had given him a warm tweed coat
previous to starting, but this he had left in his house. I at once told
him through "Suong," that if he did not go as I had paid him to do, I
should tell all the headmen as we returned to the coast, that he broke
his bargains, and was afraid to go up the mountain. This threat had
the desired effect on him; for after reflecting on it several minutes,
he arose and prepared to start, saying with charming naïveté, that "I
was a good man, and that he liked me." About seven o'clock "Boloung"
and five or six of his followers rejoined us, as they had promised,
and we set off on our way up the spur.
Our path at first lay up the bed of the torrent, but we left this in
a few minutes, bearing up the spur to the right, past a bamboo fence
in which rat-traps were placed at intervals of a few feet. Here and
there, too, we noticed the dangerous spring pig-spearing apparatus, so
commonly met with in the forests of the Murut and Kayan tribes who live
further south. The deposit of forest débris at the base of this south
spur is very rich in ferns and herbaceous plants. A melastomad here
and there bore clusters of pretty pink flowers. Of this plant, which
grew in the moss beside the path, there are green and purple-leaved
varieties. A glossy-leaved ardisia, having clusters of red berries,
the foliage being claret-coloured beneath, was conspicuous; and
the stems of a shrub four feet high were covered with clusters of
vermilion-tinted berries the size of small peas; another shrub, a yard
high, having lance-shaped serrate leaves, bore clusters of pure white,
gesnera-like flowers. As we climbed higher up the mountain side,
rhododendra, bearing white, scarlet, yellow, or magenta-coloured
blossoms, began to appear, and epiphytal and terrestrial orchids also
became more plentiful. The curious pitcher-plants also increased in
profusion, some being of a wondrous size and of the most singular
form, colour and texture. At one place in a secluded mossy nook,
where Mr. Veitch and I had obtained plants during our last ascent,
I found that some cuttings we had accidentally left on the ground
had thrown out numerous fresh roots into the wet moss on which they
lay! The delicately perfumed little orchid, Dendrochilum glumaceum,
was flowering freely, its elegantly drooping inflorescence resembling
the most dainty filagree work. Golden and white-flowered coelogynes
nestled here and there beside our path. In one place, the curious
little Rhododendron ericifolium was in bloom; and another species,
growing on mossy trunks, bore waxy, bell-shaped flowers of a clear
orange-scarlet colour. The dark glossy green foliage of this last
reminded one of that of a sciadopitys in form, being linear, and
arranged in whorls. It has been named (Rhododendron stenophyllum,
Hook. f.).
As we ascended the temperature fell faster and faster, and at intervals
we were completely enveloped in dense clouds of mist, while at other
times they were dispersed, and the sun brightened up the mountain
side. One place we passed this morning is rather dangerous, almost
like walking on the ridge of a high building, the descent on one side
however being a sheer precipice of 1,500 feet, and the other side is
steep; but there are a few bushes near, which give one confidence. At
8,000 feet we again enter a dripping cloud, or rather it sweeps
down to meet us, and the trees here are of low stature and gnarled,
the branches being so low that in places one has to crawl through
them. Casuarina trees are commonly met with. The ground and lower
bushes are covered with wet mosses, and white hair-like masses of
usnea sway to and fro in the higher branches. The cold increased,
and my Labuan men felt it very much. I looked at my thermometer at
three o'clock during a heavy shower, and at an altitude of 9,000 feet,
and it registered 56°. In England one would consider this a delicious
temperature; but when we started this morning we had a temperature
thirty degrees higher.
It was curious to notice the effect the depression of heat and the
rain had on my men, who had never in their lives known the thermometer
below 70°. They appeared perfectly paralysed; and the Dusun themselves
were but little better. We reached our former camping-place, the cave,
about 3.30, wet, cold, tired, and hungry. Five of the fellows were so
far chilled and exhausted that they gave up when within ten minutes
of the cave, and huddled themselves close together under some dry
rocks. I sent twice for them to come on to us, but they would not
move, and passed the night without fire or food, rather than bestir
themselves to prepare either. We managed to start a fire after some
difficulty, and then pulled off our cold wet garments. I got one of
my Malays to rub me briskly all over with a coarse towel, and then
put on two flannel shirts, trowsers, and jacket, after which I felt
comparatively comfortable. One of the Dusun fetched us some water
from a stream half a mile off; and it was so icy cold as to make
one's teeth chatter to drink it--rather a novelty in the tropics.
"Jeludin," although shivering, set about cooking our dinner; and
"Suong," who was the most useful man I had, chopped up enough wood to
last us all the night. The men who came on with us sat shivering under
the rocks for over an hour, before I could induce them to set about
lighting themselves a fire. It was, indeed, really painful to see the
poor fellows so utterly paralysed. "Boloung," the chief of the Kiau
Dusun, who had accompanied us, had carried up a fowl under his arm the
whole way; and when he reached the cave, I was agreeably surprised when
he presented it to me, and I took it as a great compliment, for it is
extremely rare for a Dusun to put himself to so much trouble even for
a friend, much less for a stranger like myself. This fowl, although
lively enough in the morning, had become so wet and cold during the
ascent, that it appeared to be dead; indeed, I thought it was dead for
some time, but on holding it near the fire, it revived a little. Our
Dusun followers made their encampment under a dry, overhanging rock,
a quarter of a mile ahead of us. We had a view of the great waterfall
on the bare granite rocks of the mountain opposite, and could hear
the dash of its current into the stream below very plainly.
After dinner we made up a good fire; and never did I fancy a cup
of hot coffee so delicious as this seemed to be; while the primest
of fragrant Havannahs have been far less comforting than was the
modest cigarette of native grown tobacco, which one of my followers
made and presented to me on the spot. Our fire blazed up brightly,
and diffused both warmth and fragrance in our rocky dwelling; and,
wrapping our rugs and blankets around us, we were soon asleep,
surrounded by our Labuan men, who crowded around the fire, and kept
it replenished with fuel throughout the night.