A ROYAL VISIT.
Exploring rides--A state visit--Culinary business--Arrival of
the Sultan and suite--Procession of boats--Armed attendants--A
royal salute--Visit to the ship--Use of dogs aboard--Amusements
ashore--Eastern singing--A royal interpreter--Dress of the
ladies--Influence of the women--An early rising Sultana--Marine
amusements--Departure--Journey to Bu'ut Dahau--Hospitality of
the mountaineers--Ascent--Fine views from the top--Flowers
and insects--A Hadji's tradition--Siassi Island--A Horned
Steed--Sandakan--Pulo Bahalatolois.
When we started from Labuan it was expected that the whole voyage to
and from Sulu would be made in fifteen days. On our arrival here,
however, the expected cargo was not ready, and it was found that
another fortnight must elapse ere we could leave. This extra time
I spent in riding over the island in every direction, and I was
rewarded by specimens of plants and birds which had never reached
Europe before. One night on my return to the ship for dinner, I was
delighted to hear that the Sultan had arranged to pay a State visit to
Meimbong, and that he had signified his intention of coming on board,
this being indeed one of the principal reasons of his visit. It had
been arranged that he and his suite would remain in the harbour for one
night, sleeping in "Peah's" house, the largest and most comfortable
in the place. Mr. Cowie at once resolved to decorate the ship, and
also to fire a salute from the guns on board, as he had an Armstrong
amidships and two iron muzzle-loaders forward. The visit was to be made
in two days' time, and so there was plenty of time for preparations,
and the little wharf assumed an appearance of bustle and activity I
had never seen there before. A fine young bullock was slaughtered
by "Peah," and his slave girls were as busy as bees in the little
kitchen on the end of the pile jetty, preparing food and sweetmeats
for the visitors. Edible swallows' nests, and the finest and fattest
of sea-slugs were placed in bowls of water to soak, while rice was
cleaned in large quantities, and freshly-caught fish were brought in
alive and retained in tubs of sea-water until required. Enormous brass
betel-boxes were cleaned and replenished with fresh lime and nuts,
and the mountaineers brought down the largest and freshest of pepper
or sirri leaves and fruits on the morning of the visit. Inside the
private apartments finely-worked mats and embroidered cushions were
placed for the royal guests. Business seemed entirely suspended for
the time, and both Chinese and Sulus were evidently looking forward
to a general holiday. On board, the sailors had made the little Far
East nice and tidy, the bunting of all colours and signal halyards
were got into order, and the mate sacrificed his old flannel shirts
to make bags for the powder with which the salute was to be fired.
About eight o'clock on the appointed day a shot was fired from
the Armstrong, and we were all surprised at the long rolling echo
and reverberation it made among the hills. About ten the Sultan and
Sultana with their entire suite and numbers of Sulus who formed a sort
of irregular guard of honour, arrived at Meimbong a gay cavalcade,
the brightly-embroidered jackets of the nobles, and the crimson, blue,
and yellow petticoats of the ladies being very effective in the bright
sunshine, the whole effect being again heightened by the flashing
of numerous spears. Filing through the narrow gate in the stockade,
they waited for some minutes ere the boats were quite ready, and then
embarked, a movement which occupied nearly half an hour. Knowing that
the boats would block up the river when they eventually started, we
returned to the ship, from which an excellent view of the procession
of boats was obtained as they crossed the harbour to reach the houses
on the wharf. The sight was extremely bright and pretty as the boats,
with their gaily attired occupants, emerged from the mouth of the
river and came across the bay. The Sultan's boat was first, and the
fat old Commander-in-Chief of the forces sat on the prow, paddle in
hand, to steer clear of all impediments. Next came the Sultana and
her chief ladies in a larger boat, two or three richly embroidered
umbrellas being held aloft, while her infant son and nurse came
along in a third boat with numerous attendants, and overshadowed
by a splendid yellow silk three storied umbrella, decorated with
streamers to steady it, each of these last being in the hands of a
dusky slave. The following boats, of which there were about a dozen,
carried the attendant nobles, headmen, minor ladies of the harem, and
the necessary attendants or slaves. Besides these there was, of course,
quite a crowd of natives in outrigged boats and canoes of all sizes.
His Highness landed on the "jimbatan," and stood to watch the landing
of the Sultana and her suite. He was surrounded by his people, all
being, as is usual here always, armed. One man carried a heavy Lanun
sword, while two others carried loaded revolvers in a very awkward
manner. His son, Datu Mahomed, came on board as soon as he landed, and
asked Mr. Cowie not to fire the salute until the ladies had retired
indoors. He had several young followers with him all smartly dressed
in embroidered jackets and breeches, with gaudy kerchiefs wound around
their heads. He stayed on board while the salute was being fired, and
although it shook the little vessel a good deal, and did some damage
to the skylights and crockery, he did not seem to mind it much. The
guns were fired with great regularity, and the reverberation among the
hills was grand. After the firing was concluded His Highness came on
board and went over the whole ship. He was particularly interested in
the little Armstrong breech-loading gun, and examined its mechanism
very closely, he also ventured down into the engine-room, and was
evidently astonished at the machinery therein. After looking round
the vessel he sat under the awning on the saloon-deck smoking and
talking until we had finished dinner, and was very much interested in
our European style of eating. He has repeatedly been invited on board
English gun-boats which call in here occasionally, but this was the
first time he had ever ventured to set his foot on board a foreign
vessel. Mr. Cowie was very anxious that all should pass off well, as
it was very evident that His Highness was very nervous, and foreseeing
this possibility, the vessel had been laid alongside the "jimbatan,"
or wharf, so that he could step on board and leave without any trouble.
He left just at sundown, appearing very pleased with his visit, and
he expressed his intention of again coming on board in the morning,
bringing the Sultana with him. The houses on the wharf were crowded
towards night with Sulus from all the neighbouring islets, and when the
lamps were alight presented a very animated sight to a stranger. The
common Sulus are rather intrusive, and the native boatswain would have
had much trouble to have kept the ship clear of them had it not been
for the dogs on board, four splendid creatures. They were a retriever,
two small terriers, and a formidable bull-dog, which Mr. Cowie told
me was the best safeguard from the pilfering of natives he had ever
invested in during some years of Eastern cruising and coast trade. This
hint may be of some service to future explorers--a good bull-dog or a
terrier or two would, indeed, be the best of guards to have at one's
camping ground, since it is next to impossible for anyone to approach
without their giving due loud-voiced warning.
We went ashore after dinner and found "Peah's" house filled
to overflowing with guests. Room, however, was made for us, and
chocolate, biscuits, cigarettes, and gin offered in turn. Incessant
talking, varied by gong music, and now and then a melancholy song by
one of the court ladies, together with food and drink to all comers,
seemed to be the programme. The singing, to our ears, sounded like a
dirge--the pentatonic scale being used by these people as by the Malays
and Chinese. One young girl after singing part of a ballad relating
how a beautiful princess was stolen by pirates and eventually became
a Sultan's bride, "her skin being pale as the jasmine flower, her
breath sweet as the areca bloom," eventually went off in a fainting
fit, and had to be carried out into the fresh air. Her place and
legend was immediately taken up by another girl, and I was told that
the thread of it was so long that several days would be occupied by
anyone who should attempt to sing the whole story. Our interpreter,
for the nonce, was Datu Mahomed, who is very fond of Europeans. He
introduced us to several people of note in the island, and gave us
much information which otherwise we could not have obtained. Men and
women here met pretty much on a common ground, and were apparently
untrammelled by that strict and exclusive etiquette so characteristic
of the Bornean Malays. Some of the ladies were very comely and richly
dressed, notably the court ladies and the pretty wife of Datu Haroun,
the former Sulu governor of Sandakan. This lady spoke Malay well,
an accomplishment which few of the Sulu women possess, and we spent
a very pleasant quarter of an hour in her company.
The dress of the Sulu women consists of a pair of loose trowsers
of white cloth generally, but for holiday times often red, yellow,
magenta, or blue silk, and a loose jacket ("baju") also of silk,
often braided down the front, and ornamented with large gold or silver
buttons. Over these a long sarong, or petticoat, is worn as a sash,
cloak, skirt, or petticoat and belt combined, according to the fancy
of its wearer at the time, for to the Sulus and Malays the sarong
supplies the place of the dress and bonnet of civilised society
here at home. Most of the "sarongs" worn by the ladies I saw to-day
were of silk, very richly embroidered with flowers, butterflies, or
complicated designs of a foliated pattern, the same on both sides the
material, and really producing a beautiful effect. The colours were
mainly gaudy and barbaric in splendour, but here and there real taste
was evident. One lady wore a buff sarong of very rich texture, with
a neatly-worked border in black, while another, in a green and black
check or tartan, was especially noticeable. Rings of gold and silver,
often richly set with stones and pearls, are worn on the left hand as
a rule, but ladies of the highest class have both hands studded with
jewelry. Ear ornaments are not so much affected as by the Malays,
and although most of the girls have apertures slit in their pretty
little ears, these are rarely used for earrings, being, indeed, as
often made receptacles for cigarettes as anything else. Ornate cloth
or silk kerchiefs and head-dresses of black, yellow, or red, set off
their raven tresses to advantage on high days and holidays, and among
an assemblage of fully two hundred women, such as we saw here to-day,
not two were dressed alike. Yellow is the colour which predominates
most, and the amount of chrome which would render a European lady
most conspicuous and vulgar, seems only to enhance the dusky charms,
bright eyes, and luxuriant hair of these Sulu belles. Only the Sultana
and one or two others wore stockings, and slippers were only used by
the elite, and to these they seemed a superfluity, since they mostly
carried them in their hands. The abundance of hair possessed by these
women is a noticeable feature, and they do not dress it so neatly as
the Malays, but merely comb it out straight, after which it is loosely
knotted up so as to form a mass on the top or one side of the head.
From the opportunities I had of seeing the Sulu women generally, I
should say that they are far superior to the men, and evidently have,
as has been before noticed, great influence with their husbands. A
present to the Sultana and one or two of the Datu's wives, would be
amply sufficient to ensure the safety and popularity of a traveller
here, a secret well known to the rich Chinese traders, who make
visits hither occasionally during the year. Wishing to pay our
respects to the Sultan ere leaving for the night, we sought His
Highness in vain for some time, but at last found him with one of
our Chinese friends, smoking opium in a gloomy little compartment,
from the close, penetrating odour of which we were glad to escape
as quickly as possible. We went on board, but did not sleep much,
owing to the talking and gong-beating, which continued almost all
night. We awoke at sunrise to find nearly every one astir on the wharf,
the Sultana and her suite having thus early seated themselves outside
the houses to take the air.
Much amusement was caused by a large retriever dog, "Neptune," which
Mr. Cowie had on board, and which delighted to plunge after any trifle
flung into the water. In about half-an-hour the boats were brought,
and Her Highness and about fifty ladies went off to a sandy shoal
in the bay to bathe. We could see them quite plainly from the ship
flopping over the sides of the boats into the sea, and floundering
about like fat seals. They evidently enjoyed themselves; and after a
quarter-of-an-hour's racing and splashing, they returned to the boats,
and then proceeded about a mile out to sea, where some Badjows amused
them by diving for pearl-shells and coral.
Returning to the wharf, the Sultan and Sultana came on board; and
after Her Highness, who was only attended by two of her ladies, had
looked over the ship, he bade us adieu. The boats were then brought
alongside the wharf; the ladies embarked first, then the Sultan
and his suite. Splash went the polished paddles; a wave of the hand
from His Highness, a dip of the flag at the mast-head of the little
steamer, and the first royal visit paid by a Sultan of Sulu on board
a steam-ship was over. Both before and after this visit we saw a good
deal of the Sulus; not only the traders, but the nobles and officers
themselves often came on board on business, or to take a cup of tea and
have a chat. One or two of them had a weakness for gin "cocktails,"
but their general beverage was tea or lemonade. All were armed with
straight knives; but most had the short heavy Sulu knife or sword
stuck in a silk sash or waist-cloth. Much of the conversation was
on the subject of market prices for pearl shell, trepang, and birds'
nests, varied by inquiries as to the object and operations of the new
Borneo Company, to whom their Sultan had quite recently ceded Sandakan,
and the east and north part of Borneo which belonged to him.
During all the time we had lain in harbour here, the weather had been
dry, not a drop of rain having fallen for nearly four months. The
plains were very dry and parched, and jungle fires were not unfrequent
as the dry grass caught fire and sprang into a blaze very quickly. It
is owing to these fires in jungle and forest that teak of large size is
now so rare; since at one time the island must have been one immense
forest of this valuable wood.
After the ascent of Bu'at Timantangis I had often longed to explore
Bu'at Dahau, the next highest of the two peaks of Sulu, both of which
are visible for a long way out at sea. We could see the mountain quite
clearly at sunrise every morning, from our anchorage at Meimbong;
and one fine morning I set off, accompanied by Mr. Anson Cowie,
who proved himself to be a most intelligent and genial companion. As
guide, I had been so fortunate as to obtain the services of one of
the Sultan's officers who lived at a village half way up the mountain
side, and at whose house we were to leave our ponies and undertake the
climbing on foot. We bore to the right on leaving Meimbong, and had
a pleasant ride of seven or eight miles across the fragrant mint and
grass-covered plains; but by reason of my dismounting here and there
to gather a curious orchid or fern, or perchance to get a shot at a
beautiful bird, it was nearly noon ere we drew rein at the door of our
guide's house. Our way at first had lain through the undulating plain;
then the Meimbong river was crossed under some fine-spreading trees, on
which white, blue, and green pigeons fluttered in plenty. Then we rode
up a narrow path fringed with tall overhanging jungle on either side,
leaving only bare space for our ponies to pass in Indian file. Then
came a rounded hill-side, and numerous cultivated patches--little
farms with palm-thatched houses sheltered in groves of durian,
cocoa-nut, mango, and other fruit trees. Here coffee and cocoa-trees
were noticed in vigorous health and fruitfulness; and along the edges
of the arable patches a very pretty species of curcuma was blooming
freely among the grass and verdure. The leaves had a purple stain along
the mid-rib. The flowers were white, with a blotch of lemon-yellow on
the lip, the inflorescence being white, suffused with bright amethyst,
purple at its apex. We noticed tame paroquets hanging outside several
of the dwellings we passed on our way.
At one point near the foot of the mountain, we came upon a party of
thirty or forty men accompanied by dogs, and armed with long spears;
they were going to hunt some wild pigs which had done damage to a
plantation of sweet potatoes and yams the night previous. Our way now
lay up the clearings on the mountain side. I dismounted and led my
pony; and on my shooting at a pigeon, it became restive, and broke
away. It was luckily met and caught by a Sulu man who had followed
us, in the hope of earning a little tobacco. Arriving at last at the
mountain village, we entered our guide's house, after having tethered
our horses and given them some cut grass on which to feed. The sun
was now very hot, and we were glad to rest; we were hungry, too,
and thoroughly enjoyed some fish and rice, which, together with some
chocolate, was soon set before us by these hospitable people. Pigeons,
paroquets, and large hornbills, were here plentiful, and came to feed
on some large trees which were in fruit near the village.
After our luncheon I started with our guides to ascend the mountain,
leaving Mr. Cowie, who had a lame foot, to shoot around the village
until my return. We reached the summit in about an hour, but were much
disappointed, as the vegetation was not nearly so luxuriant as that
on Timantangis. Orchids were scarce, and ferns wanting in variety and
beauty, although several were new to science. Near the summit I heard a
little song-bird singing very sweetly; and although I did not see it,
I am convinced it was the same species I had previously heard with so
much pleasure on "Kina Balu," at a much higher altitude. This mountain
is well wooded at the top, but not so densely as is Timantangis; nor
is the undergrowth so rich in variety. The views from the top are
simply lovely--a panorama of fertile farm-dotted hills and golden
plains, stretching away to the blue sea, where the main island is
fringed by coral islets. A native pointed out the harbour to us, and
the peak of Pulo Siassi was plainly visible. In the descent I made
a detour from the little spring or watering-place near the village,
and passing through clumps of coffee-bushes, with here and there ripe
fruit in plenty, we came beneath a grove of large durian trees which
were in bloom, the ground beneath being covered with their fallen
blossoms. Here I shot several pigeons and paroquets; and in returning
to the village we repeatedly saw a large amorphophallus bearing foetid
flowers as large as a sugar basin, and of a dark maroon colour. On
cutting open a flower I found its basin half full of ants of two kinds
and numerous small black coleoptera were running about in the spathe. I
may say that I have rarely ever examined tubular flowers here in the
tropics without finding insects of some kind engaged within, and in
the case of aroids particularly, their spathes are generally full
of such tiny guests, whether "unbidden" or not I cannot say, but it
is probable certain kinds are attracted by foetid odours as others
are by sweet ones, while in many cases nectar or pollen supply the
little visitors with food. The bright scarlet flowers of the erythrina
trees in Labuan sheltered myriads of tiny flies and beetles which,
in their turn, afforded food to large flocks of starlings and other
birds which were always attracted to these trees when they were in
bloom. Quite accidentally I came across the evidence of a celebrated
traveller in South America, Waterton, who at p. 98 of his Wanderings,
says "almost every flower of the tropical climates contains insects
of one kind or other," thus bearing out what I have observed to be
universally the case in the eastern jungles and gardens.
On returning to the house I found Mr. Cowie had shot a beautiful
paroquet and two pigeons I had never seen before, and he had directed
his men to bring all the ferns and plants he had met with on his way
around the jungle patches near the houses. Our birds and flowers
securely packed, we walked around the village and paid a visit to
a hospitable old hadji who lived here, apparently prosperous and
happy. He told us that many of the women had been much frightened
on hearing that a white man was coming to their village, adding
that he had had great difficulty in assuring them that we were
not Spaniards. He had erected a neat little musjid, and his son,
a tall well-favoured youth, who had accompanied his sire to Mecca,
had just been married to a very comely Sulu girl. This hadji had a
tradition that the aboriginals of the island had been driven out by
the Chinese emigrants many years ago, even before the Arab Sultans
and Datus became the dominant party here. He may be right, since
it is a well known fact that the Chinese had extensive settlements
in the northern portion of Borneo, as in part attested by the native
names of the places in which their settlements were made, as Kina Balu
(Chinese widow mountain), Kina Batangan (Chinese river), Kina Tanah,
Kina Taki, and others. There is one tribe of Dusun who wear pigtails,
and although they use the Dusun vernacular, yet they converse in
very fair Chinese after a little practice, having never quite lost
the tongue of their Chinese ancestors, of whom these are the lineal
descendants by Bornean women. This peculiar tribe inhabit the Bundu
country, but St. John mentions Muruts from the Limbang, who spoke
Hokien Chinese on their being confronted with Chinese in Brunei,
the capital, although they failed to express themselves in the Malay
language of the coast!
Just as the sun was sinking behind the trees we mounted our ponies
and started for Meimbong. The air was now cool and fresh, and a
pleasant ride of two hours brought us to Meimbong. This was my last
ride in the island. All the cargo had been stowed below, the hatches
closed, and early in the morning we were to leave. We were awoke at
daybreak by the steam-whistle, and just as the sun tinted the peaks
of Timantangis and Dahau we steamed slowly out of the harbour for the
Island of Siassi, one of the Tapal group, where more cargo awaited
us. We arrived at Siassi about noon, but the cargo could not be put on
board until the next morning. We stayed at Siassi all the following
day, and I took the opportunity of riding inland, and to the peak,
which I found capped with old forest; but owing to the extreme drought,
everything here was parched and dry, and but few plants of interest
were seen. As most of this island is entirely denuded of old forest,
of course birds are scarce; indeed, I saw enough of it to convince
me that it was a bad collecting ground generally. The only steed I
could obtain was a large black bull, which I hired for a bundle of
tobacco. He was all right when I had fairly mounted, but whenever I
got off to shoot at a bird, or gather plants, he became exceedingly
restive, and the only way to mount him again was to put the rope
(by which I steered him, and which was fastened to a twisted ring
of rattan cane in his nose) round the trunk or branch of a tree,
and then to pull his nose up to it by sheer force, holding it firmly
with one hand while I sprang on his back. The few country people I
met appeared rather surprised, but I expect the bull was well known,
and so that served as a passport to me. Near the houses on the shore
a bushy euphorbia, with candelabra-like branches, and a clump of
yuccas were seen, both doubtless introductions. I returned about three
o'clock. After dinner I and Captain Cowie visited one or two of the
traders' houses, which resemble those of Sulu in internal arrangement,
large beds or platforms occupying the principal apartment, covered
with fine mats and pillows, the valuables in boxes being piled up
behind. In the morning we bore away for Sandakan, which we reached
ere daybreak the next day. The steam-ship America was in the bay,
having Baron de Overbeck on board. We stayed here one day for cargo
of trepang, rattan, pearl-shell, and birds'-nests. These edible
swallows'-nests are highly valued by the rich Chinese, and it is from
a cave on the face of the sandstone rock on Pulo Bahalatolois, at the
mouth of this bay, that the finest white nests are obtained. These
rocks rise nearly perpendicularly from the sea, and to reach the
entrance to the cave a man has to descend a distance of a hundred
or more feet with the aid of a rattan rope tied to a tree on the
slope above. It is dangerous work, as the least slip, and the man
would be dashed to pieces on the rock-strewn shore below. The nests
thus obtained fetch as much as eighteen dollars per catty, a weight
equalling 1-1/3 lb. English. The finest birds'-nests are clean and
white, as if made of isinglass; the worst resemble dirty glue, to
which feathers and other impurities are attached, and between these
extremes there are all sorts of intermediate qualities. These nests
are obtained in rocky caves throughout Borneo, Java, and Sumatra, but
nowhere are they obtainable finer in quality than here, at Sandakan
Head. Large quantities of small or seed pearls are obtained here,
also Bornean camphor, the produce of Dryobalanops camphora, a large
tree often one hundred to a hundred and fifty feet in height. As a
product, it is quite distinct from the common camphor of commerce,
which is obtained from Laurus camphora by the Chinese of Hong Kong,
who send nearly all of it to our markets, while they, in their turn,
highly esteem the Bornean produce, and pay high prices for it. It is
obtained in the form of tears and crystallised lumps from the trunk
of the tree, and in general appearance is so like the finer kinds
of "dammar" gum, that this latter is often used by the collectors
as an adulterant. The Chinese traders, however, are rarely imposed
upon. The camphor, in its pure state, resembles solidified spirit,
and being extremely volatile, it burns with a clear light flame. To
detect adulteration, the Chinese are said to spread a little on a
white cloth and set it on fire; the pure camphor burns cleanly, and
does not soil the cloth, whereas the dammar, if such is mixed with it,
melts and sets the cloth on fire. The people from the Teutong river,
and the Kayans on the Baram, collect large quantities of camphor and
caoutchouc, and prahus with a cargo of these products, worth from
one to two thousand dollars, visit Labuan, Sarawak, and other ports
during the season. On our leaving Sandakan, on our return voyage to
Labuan, we obtained a capital view of Pulo Bahalatolois, and on our
rounding the point, the rattan rope dangling down the rocks to the dark
entrance to the swallows' cave was plainly visible. This island has a
very commanding position, and a battery here would sweep the entrance
to this fine bay. We were four days in reaching Labuan, there being
a thick fog along the north-west coast, and we were aground twice,
although fortunately we got off again without injury.