In the interior, I was much surprised to see in a very capacious room,

splendidly furnished, a large concourse of ladies and gentlemen, during

Sunday, very busy at the gambling tables; in fact the ladies appeared to

be fully as expert gamblers as the gentlemen. I also made a visit to the

convent, where two skeletons of saints decorated with numerous pearls,

rings, and other costly ornaments are exhibited; the skull and teeth

appeared to be in pretty good preservation, but these superstitious

decorations, so perfectly incongruous, might be well dispensed with. The

number of strangers calculated to have visited Baden, during the season

of 1835, are said to have amounted to thirteen thousand. The scenery for

a great part of the way from Carlsruhe to Baden, is considerably varied,

and the old castle of Eberstein appearing on an eminence, with well

planted hills, forms a lively contrast. We also passed through a

handsome town called Rastadt, situated on the river Murg, where a

palace, belonging to the grand duke of Baden, appears conspicuous from

the road.

Sept. 14th. I called this morning on Mr. Kennedy (brother to the

Marquess of Ailsa,) and delivered to him a note of introduction that I

received from Lord G. W. Russell. Mr. Kennedy very kindly accompanied me

to the Botanic Garden, and introduced me to M. Held, the gardener, a

very intelligent man; here the enormous height that the _Melaleuca

stipulacea_ had attained, which was nearly forty feet, is truly

astonishing. Various other _Melaleucas_ and _Banksias_ were nearly as

high; the _Dracæna Draco_ (Dragon-tree,) was about twenty feet in

height; and the _Pomaderis apetala_ almost thirty feet. In this garden

are various ranges of houses for the cultivation of tropical and other

green-house plants, which are extensively cultivated. The houses have

all dark roofs, with glass only in front; yet the greater part of their

inmates looked very healthy, particularly the greenhouse plants; but

these had the advantage of being exposed to the weather during the

summer months. Various pits were also in this establishment for the

growth and protection of the half-hardy species. The _Succulentæ_ are

extensively cultivated; there are nearly one hundred and forty species

of _Mesembryanthemums_, and about one hundred different kinds of

_Aloes_, besides a pretty good collection of the _Cacteæ_. The

_Rhododendron_ and _Azalea_, are cultivated out of doors, which is

rarely the case in any other garden in Germany.

The herbaceous ground is formed into oblong squares, and these again

divided into narrow beds, which are well stocked with a great variety of

hardy flowering perennials. The whole of this botanical department was

remarkably neat and clean, having, it is understood, been much improved

since M. Held was appointed. It appeared to me, however, to be much too

crowded with these heavy looking houses, which are too numerous for a

space of ground, undoubtedly too contracted and confined for such a

collection of plants.

The park, or pleasure-ground, adjoins the garden, and although of a dull

flat surface, yet it contains many very fine specimens of ornamental

trees and shrubs. I observed, for instance, the _Salisburia

adiantifolia_, sixty feet high, and several very large tulip trees, and

the _Sophora Japonica_; a fine specimen of the _Acer dasycarpum_,

measured no less than a space of ground of twenty yards regular

diameter. I was much pleased with a small flower garden, close to the

palace windows, which was well stocked with flowers in full bloom. The

grounds are laid out with numerous avenues radiating from the palace,

which extend in a straight line for a considerable distance; I reckoned

twenty-seven of these avenues, which had certainly rather an imposing

effect, and various walks and rides that branch off through the grounds

in different directions. There is also an extensive piece of ground

enclosed with a high wall, occupied as a nursery, and well stocked with

various hardy species of trees and shrubs. The front of the palace, next

Carlsruhe, was ornamented with large orange trees. The orangery was a

large building, the front of which was well covered with grape-vines in

a prolific state.

Sept. 15th. Left Carlsruhe at six o'clock, a.m. for Heidelberg, passing

through a fine fertile country, chiefly occupied with green crops. The

mangel wurtzel, Indian corn, and fine crops of tobacco, are cultivated

here, as well as in many other parts of Germany. Arrived at Heidelberg

at eleven o'clock, and proceeded to the Botanic Garden, which has been

only recently established, and contains a neat range of hot-houses,

about one hundred and sixty feet long, besides a large sized pit in

front of the range, one hundred feet long. This garden, although small,

is pleasantly situated, and well arranged. In the centre is an oblong

piece of water, the banks around which are considerably elevated, and

planted with standard fruit trees, such as peaches, apricots, plums, and

pears. The garden forms an oblong square, with a range of hot-houses and

gardener's house at the north end, close to the Heidelberg Gate. These

hothouses were the best and neatest-built that I had met with in

Germany, and contain a pretty fair collection of plants, with some very

fine species of _Cacteæ_. Along by the east side of the garden is an

avenue of very fine specimens of the _Robinia inermis_, which is also

continued along the south side of the town for a considerable distance.

I next proceeded to Schwetzingen, another magnificent establishment,

belonging to the Grand Duke of Baden. The palace and gardens are

situated about five English miles from Heidelberg, and are

unquestionably well worth the stranger's visit. In the approach to them

by an arch-way at the palace, we have a view of a large circular piece

of ground, divided into various divisions, in which are cultivated a

good collection of flowering plants; there are also in this spot a

number of fine orange trees, arranged along the edges of broad gravel

walks; several of them forming a straight avenue, extending in various

directions. The centre walk or avenue, leading from the palace, is

terminated by an extensive sheet of water, where is placed a fine group

of sculpture, as well as another at the commencement of the avenue, at

the end of the grass, next to the circular piece of ground, where the

orange trees are arranged. On each side of this principal avenue is

situated an oblong piece of ground, laid out in the French style of

gardening, with numerous straight walks, and circular spaces at their

junctions. The exterior of the ground, and that by the lake, is laid out

in the English style, and consists of various clumps of trees; and the

very fine irregular sheet of water has really a very good effect.

I was much pleased with a very fine ruin, which is ascended by steps to

a very considerable height, from whence is a delightful prospect of the

gardens and adjoining scenery. The Temple of Apollo, with the stupendous

blocks of rock, and the water dashing against them, is another object

deserving of notice. The Temple of Minerva is also a very pretty

erection. A Roman aqueduct forms a very prominent object of attraction,

but at this season of the year it appeared to be but indifferently

supplied with water, which might be occasioned by the long and universal

drought. A Temple Botanique, and a very handsome Kiosk, formed objects

of interest and ornaments to the garden. An extensive arched trellising

covered with creepers also attracted my notice: in it were numerous

arborial openings on both sides.

The collection of Cape and New Holland plants is pretty extensive, and

numerous species of the _Genus Erica_ are also cultivated. In the

kitchen garden various pyramidal-formed pear trees are grown; and the

hothouses are of a better description than are usually to be met with in

Germany; the south-side glass, and the back opaque, with span roofs. The

pine-apples here were the best that I had previously met with during my

tour in Germany. To give an accurate description of the various objects

of interest that are to be seen in these grounds would require one well

acquainted with the premises, and several days' actual residence on the

spot. The orange houses are substantial built houses, with dark roofs,

and the collection of trees, from their appearance, from four to five

hundred, which were in a healthy state.

Having a letter of introduction from Sir John Frost and M. Kilter from

the neighbourhood of Vienna (who visited Woburn Abbey last summer) to

the principal director, I experienced the greatest attention from him;

the greatest pains were taken in pointing out to me every thing worthy

of notice.

Returned to Heidelberg, and visited the ruins of an old castle, situated

on the face of a hill overlooking the town, and the river Necker, and

surrounded by high hills well planted, which form an eminence

considerably above the castle, where there is a platform or resting

place: the view of the extent of country and its romantic scenery is

really grand. On the top of two of these hills are high towers, the

prospect from which must be still more extensive. On approaching the old

castle, I was agreeably surprised to observe some fine walks, with a

collection of trees or arboretum, with printed labels attached to them,

and the ground in good order. From this we still continued to descend to

the old castle, which, even in its present state, must strike the

stranger with regret that such a magnificent building should have been

permitted to go to decay, particularly as the stone work appears in a

good state of preservation. The prospect from the terrace, on the

north-side of the castle, is really grand, commanding the circuitous

course of the Necker, the lofty and undulating hills on each side, which

I imagine must be elevated at least two thousand feet above the level of

the site of the castle.

In the interior of the building is the celebrated _Heidelberg tun_,

which was formerly used in making the Rhenish wine, with the great

machine that was in use for that purpose, and from its size the quantity

made daily must have been very great; near to it stands a figure of one

of the wine makers, who was in the habit of drinking fifteen bottles

every day. The approach of night prevented me from inspecting the

interior of this old castle so minutely as I could have wished.

Descending from a hill considerably elevated above this building, I

passed through a grove of fine trees (sweet chesnuts) all in full

bearing.

The country and romantic scenery in the vicinity of Heidelberg pleased

me more than anything of the kind I had previously met with.

Sept. 19th. Left Heidelberg at six o'clock a. m. for Frankfort, the road

winding along the river Necker, for a considerable distance, through a

flat country to the left; but the high hills on the right as we passed

from this to Darmstadt formed a pleasing contrast. The scenery for the

first ten or twelve miles is very picturesque, from the high undulating

hills, having numerous old romantic castellated ruins on their summits,

or commanding points, which form prominent features of attraction. These

hills are likewise well planted with forest trees; and large tracts are

under vineyard culture.

Arrived at Darmstadt at half-past one o'clock. I was much pleased with

the cleanliness and elevated situation of this town, which is said to

contain above twenty thousand inhabitants; the houses are handsomely

built, the streets wide, and in good proportion to the height and size

of the houses; they have also flag pavements, which is a rarity in

Germany. The opera-house is a splendid building, as well as the

cathedral. The palace is also a fine old building, and has attached to

it an extensive pleasure ground and kitchen garden.

Having but a very short time to stop here I made but a hasty visit

through the gardens. The kitchen garden walls were well stocked with

trees in full bearing, and large crops of vegetables appeared to be

extensively cultivated: from thence I went to the extremity of the

grounds, near which is a small herbaceous ground, with a good collection

of plants in it, but I observed but little in the ornamental way in the

arboretum department.

About the centre is prettily formed, although dirty, a sheet of water,

with a fanciful boat, for passing to and from a small island in the

centre. The grounds are very flat and not varied, but possess numerous

walks and rides which are frequented by the inhabitants.

I here observed a large number of horses, belonging to the Grand Duke,

passing through the town to the Ducal stables. There are military

barracks, and a large establishment of soldiers stationed here. This is

evidently not a town of trade, but is principally occupied by the

military.

Left Darmstadt at three o'clock for Frankfort; the country betwixt these

towns is not much varied, but the soil appears very fertile, and

produces good crops. I was, however, quite astonished at the number of

carriages and other vehicles passing and re-passing betwixt Frankfort

and Heidelberg; the road appeared to be nearly as much crowded as any of

the English roads leading to London, and amongst these travellers were

many English families.

Arrived at Frankfort at six o'clock in the evening; the hotels were all

so crowded with strangers that it was with difficulty I procured a bed,

but at last the landlord of the Hotel d'Angleterre obtained me a room in

a private house.

Sept. 17th. In the morning I visited the Catholic cathedral, which is

said to be one thousand years old, and contains a curious clock and

almanac, made and placed in it about four hundred years ago; and then

proceeded to the banking-house of Messrs. Koch and Co., and delivered to

them a letter of introduction from His Excellency Lord G. W. Russell.

They kindly furnished me with notes of introduction to several of the

best gardens in Frankfort. I then visited the nursery gardens of M.

Rintz, which are situated in the suburbs of the town, and contain about

eighteen English acres, chiefly occupied with fruit trees. There are

also several hothouses and pits for Cape and other plants, which are

pretty extensively cultivated, with a good variety of _Ericas_ and other

greenhouse plants, as well as several fine specimens of _Cacteæ_, and a

very extensive variety of the _Camelliæ_; but unfortunately none of

these being at this season in flower, I had not the pleasure of seeing

M. Rintz's celebrated variety, which is said to be very fine. This

gentleman then accompanied me to the garden of M. Andreæ Willemer, which

is close to the town, but is very limited in extent; it contains a very

good greenhouse, and low pits and frames, which were then well stocked

with a very fine collection of _Cacteæ_, amongst which were many very

scarce species. This gentleman devotes much attention to the cultivation

of this tribe of plants, and appeared to put a higher value on many of

them than they are actually worth; for instance, the _Cactus Senilis_ he

would not part with for fifty pounds, although possessing duplicates.

There was also a good assortment of Cape plants and a number of

_Ericas_, which are now beginning to be more extensively cultivated in

Germany than they previously were.

I then paid a visit to the Frankfort Botanic Garden, which is of very

limited extent, and its collection of plants also very contracted. These

is, however, attached to it, the Senkenberg Society, which contains a

splendid collection of objects in natural history, such as birds,

fishes, shells, minerals, and animals, which are well worth the

stranger's notice.

From this I proceeded to the gardens of M. Gogel, situated about four

English miles from Frankfort, containing twenty-four German acres, with

several hothouses and pits for the growth of the pine-apple and other

tropical plants, which are extensively cultivated here. This gentleman

has a very fine collection of the hardy grapes on the garden walls, with

a large space of vegetable ground, well cropped. The lawn in front of

the house appears, from the River Main, to much advantage, as well as a

fine avenue of lime trees, that have grown to a large size. At the lower

end of this avenue is a fine vista of the river and packets, or boats,

that pass to and from Frankfort and Mayence.

On my return, I called at the villa garden of M. Stern, which is a

pretty little spot, with a great variety of pelargoniums and dahlias,

and other green-house plants, and contains some small green-houses and

pits for their protection; there is also a good collection of camellias,

all in a healthy state.

Adjoining this is another villa, belonging to M. Cronelius, that has

also several good hothouses and pits, with a large variety of _Ericas_,

_Camellias_, _Dryandrias_, and _Geraniums_, as well as other New Holland

plants. There are likewise several espalier divisions, in which the pear

tree is extensively cultivated, and appeared to be in a very prolific

state. There is a considerable extent of ground under kitchen cropping,

and also a pleasure ground, which was very well kept.

The garden of Baron Rothschild, close to the town of Frankfort, is

undoubtedly the best in this neighbourhood that came under my

observation; it contains thirty-five German acres, with several

green-houses, besides an extensive range then building, about two

hundred feet long, which was also intended for plants, and is divided

into seven apartments, in order that those kinds that require different

temperatures may be kept separately; this range when completed will have

a very fine effect. In front of the mansion were placed two large

stands well stocked with geraniums, and some very good orange trees, in

tubs, which are removed from this site to the green-house early in

autumn. I here observed a very fine specimen of the _Araucaria excelsa_,

which was beautifully feathered to the ground; this is unquestionably

one of the finest specimens of this plant that I have seen on the

continent or in England, with the exception of that at Dropmore, which

is much finer in every respect. Baron Rothschild's _Araucaria_ is little

inferior to the one at Prince de Linge's at Belial.

Opposite to the house is a prospect tower, that commands a fine view of

Frankfort and surrounding country; there is also an arched walk

completely covered with grape vines. The grass lawn was well kept, and

various clumps of trees and shrubs dispersed through it. A small piece

of water is enclosed at the lower end of the ground for water fowl. In

this garden I observed a good collection of green-house plants and

_Ericas_.

The fortifications that formerly surrounded the town are now demolished,

and formed into a public promenade for the inhabitants, and are well

laid out, with various clumps of trees and shrubs, broad walks, and

benches.

Frankfort is a town of great traffic, and is said to contain about

40,000 inhabitants.

Sept. 18th. Left Frankfort at ten o'clock for Mayence, and passed

through a fertile sandy country, which is well stocked with grape

vines, but the country not much varied; the scenery as we approach

Mayence is more picturesque, particularly when we get in view of the

town. We pass through a handsome barrack, situated on the verge of the

river, proceeding across a long wooden bridge that leads to the town.

Opposite to this wooden bridge, are placed seventeen watermills for

grinding flour, which were then busily at work.

The town is surrounded by very deep rampart ditches, faced with strong

stone walls, a very good promenade, and a number of small gardens with

clipt hedges, near the edge of the Rhine, where there is an avenue that

extends along its banks formed by large trees of Poplar and Robinias. At

a short distance from Mayence, but on the opposite side and close to the

banks of the river is a very fine old castellated building, and a small

village adjoining, which form a prominent feature in the scenery from

the Mayence bridge.

Sept. 19th. Left Mayence per steam packet for Bonn. For the first two

hours, we made scarcely any progress, owing to the dense fog, which we

were all anxious to see disperse, in order that the beautiful scenery

might be seen to full advantage: it was however not before nine o'clock,

that the banks of the Rhine were quite clear, when the packet began to

make a rapid progress, and passing rapidly along between numerous

stupendous rocks, old castles, and small towns situated close by the

river side.

The banks of the Rhine are extensively cultivated as vineyards. When we

arrived at Katz, which is considered about the middle of the best

scenery, we met the other steam packet, coming up at Werlau. The scenery

here is truly grand; the high mountainous rocks and old castellated

ruins, with the various undulations and other objects, render this

region highly picturesque. There is a pretty town close by the water

edge, with white houses, and corresponding village on the opposite side,

and another appearing just at the extremity of a deep valley in

prospect. The old castle called Marksburg, is a prominent object, but to

attempt to describe or enumerate all the various features of interest

that come under observation in passing along the Rhine, would be an

endless task. The scenery at Coblentz is very beautiful, with its bridge

of boats across the Rhine, similar to that at Mayence. A large rock

called the Stromberg, is very picturesque, with the castellated ruins at

the top, and several other rocks of smaller dimensions in its vicinity,

nearly opposite to which the Rhine surrounds a small island. This may be

considered about the last of the romantic scenery that comes in view, as

we pass down the Rhine.

Arrived at Bonn, about five o'clock, where I experienced some difficulty

in getting a lodging, in consequence of the great meeting of scientific

professors having been here congregated. After at last finding

admittance in a hotel, I proceeded to the Botanic garden, which is

situated about a mile from the town, surrounding the south and east

sides of the university, and containing a very handsome range of

hothouses, from three to four hundred feet in length, which also form

nearly a line, or a range, with the principle front of the university.

The hothouses are in five divisions, and contain an extensive collection

of _Ferns_ and _Graminea_; many of the stove plants were in a very

luxuriant state, and looked very healthy. Behind this range is the

annual ground, where the different species are cultivated, which

appeared to occupy about an acre: there are several low pits placed in

this department, for the growth of _Cacteæ_, and _Orchideæ_, and other

dwarf-growing species; but the collection of _Cacteæ_ and _Orchideæ_ is

very limited. Immediately in front of the range of hothouses, is an

arboretum of hardy trees and shrubs, much too crowded, and planted too

close to the hothouses, and is continued in a manner round the two ends

and south side of the garden. Opposite the principal front of the

university, is arranged the collection of _Herbaceous_ plants, according

to the natural system, but the beds are all of an oblong form, with

broad alleys or foot-paths, betwixt them: an extensive collection of the

hardy flowering perennial plants was grown in the _Herbaceous_ ground,

but the variety of hardy trees and shrubs appeared to be very limited.

There were placed along the front of the university several clumps of

green-house plants, and orange trees.

The university was formerly a royal palace, but the lower apartments are

now devoted to collections of natural history; the length of the front

measures eighty eight yards, and appeared to be about square, with an

inner court. On my return, I met with professor Treveranes, and gave him

a letter of introduction that I had from Sir W. Hooker. I learned from

the professor, that the prince of Salm-Dyck was then in Bonn, attending

the scientific meeting, and if I did not see him that evening, I should

not be able to see him at all; having a letter of introduction to his

highness from Sir W. Hooker, and from Mr. Sabine, and being anxious to

see the prince, if possible, I made the best of my way back to Bonn, to

the hotel where the prince was stated to be residing; but on enquiring

there, finding he had gone out, I immediately proceeded in search of the

prince to another hotel to which I had been directed. After waiting some

time, I found his highness had not arrived, but was expected very soon.

I therefore amused myself in looking through several splendid apartments

which were then occupied by a large number of ladies and gentlemen, who

meet at this hotel or club-house every night, to supper and various

amusements. At last I was informed that the prince had just arrived,

when I delivered my letters of introduction, and apologised for

intruding at that unseasonable time. The Prince appointed me to be with

him at nine o'clock the following morning, when his Highness was pleased

to give me a letter to his gardener at Salm-Dyck, directing him to shew

me the grounds and collections under his care.

Sept. 20th. After my return from the prince, I made another excursion to

the Botanic garden, where I again saw the professor Treveranes, who had

not accompanied his learned brethren to Cologne, who to the number of

about four hundred had departed that morning for that town.

I took a walk on my return from the Botanic gardens round the environs,

and was much pleased by the objects of interest that displayed in

different directions. The scenery around Bonn is particularly fine, and

some good prospects from a hill, at a short distance from the town; but

as I intended starting by the early steam packet, I had not time to

reach its summit, although very inviting.

The Cathedral is a very fine building, and its interior handsomely

fitted up.

The packet arrived at half-past two o'clock: I took my departure for

Dusseldorf, and passed by Cologne, where, I imagine, there must have

been several thousand people assembled on the harbour and bridge.

We now changed packets for one of less dimensions and splendour, and

arrived at Dusseldorf about half-past ten o'clock. The scenery from

Cologne to Dusseldorf was flat, and but little varied; in short Bonn is

the termination of picturesque scenery.

At Dusseldorf, I had but little difficulty in finding a hotel, as they

were not so much crowded as at Bonn.

Sept. 21st. Started at six o'clock, a. m. for prince Salm-Dyck's

Château, which is situated about ten miles from Dusseldorf, on the

opposite side of the Rhine, which is crossed in a flat barge, and passes

through the ancient town of Neuss, at which place Buonaparte's design of

connecting the Rhine, Scheldt, and Meuse, is nearly completed.

The suburbs of Neuss abound in numerous vegetable gardens, enclosed with

well clipt hedges. The ground in this part of the country, is a strong

rich looking yellowish loam, and produces strong crops of corn, clover,

and potatoes. The road however leading through a part of this country to

the prince's palace, is very much out of repair, and appeared to have

been neglected for a considerable time.

On arriving at the palace, I immediately found out M. Funck, the

prince's gardener, and delivered to him my letters of introduction from

the prince, and from M. Otto, of Berlin. The garden ground attached to

this residence, contains one hundred and eighty German acres; the

surface is considerably varied, and consists of numerous fine trees and

shrubs grouped together on the lawn, the rising ground being judiciously

planted with the loftiest growing sorts, and kept towards the extremity

of the arboretum; amongst these I observed some very fine specimens of

beeches and oaks; the beeches were particularly fine.

I saw here the _Gleditschia tricantha_, 50 feet high, and the _Populus

Canadensis_ eleven feet in circumference, by about sixty in height; also

a fine specimen of _Acer dasycarpum_. The trees in this arboretum are

arranged according to the system of _Jussieu_; there is likewise a

natural arrangement of herbaceous plants nearer to the palace and green

houses. I here observed a good collection of _Pæonias_, but the prince

excels most in the _Succulent_ tribe of plants, such as the _Cacteæ_,

_Mesembryanthemum_, and _Aloes_.

Although the _Cacteæ_ are very numerous they were not such fine

specimens as in the Berlin garden. A sheet of water encloses, in a

manner, the greater part of the palace and its offices, and from the

windows it has a very fine effect, with its bold sweeping banks

extending along the arboretum, where a pretty wooden bridge appears in

view. The hothouses are rather in a decayed state; but M. Funck informed

me that the prince intended re-building them. In the greenhouse are some

very rare specimens of _Yuccas_ and _Aloes_. I understood from M. Funck

that Mr. Hitchen, of Norwich, had the greater part of his celebrated

collection from this garden, whence I also anticipate receiving, ere

long, not a few rarities.

In going through the interior of the palace I saw a number of very old

paintings, many of which represented former princes of Salm-dyck, but

they are not in a good state of preservation; the rooms and furniture

are of antique appearance, as well as the exterior of the palace. After

spending several hours in inspecting the plants and grounds, I returned

to Dusseldorf, to see the botanic garden belonging to that town, which

is certainly neither difficult to get over, nor to see its contents, the

space of ground being very contracted, and the plants also few in

number.

They principally consisted of annuals; with a few rare species of

_Cacteæ_, not easily to be met with. I was, however, more pleased with

the public garden or promenade, which surrounds the town, and is very

extensive; it is particularly well laid out with fine broad walks,

clumps of trees and shrubs, and lawn intervening, and great variation of

surface, with different points of view commanding fine prospects of the

Rhine, with its boats and steam packets.

There is in this promenade a fine avenue of _Populus dilatata_, as well

as the _Tilia Europæa_, (Lime tree,) also several pieces of water, the

outline of some formed with much taste and intricacy, while others are

left rather formal; but, on the whole, little room is left for

criticism. Dusseldorf is a handsome town, and contains about 18,000

inhabitants; with good streets and well built houses.

Sept. 22nd. Left Dusseldorf by diligence at eight o'clock, a.m.; and

passed by the palace of prince Frederic, which is situated close by the

road side, in front of which the orange trees and sheets of water

appear very conspicuous. The gardens are said to contain a good

collection of plants.

Arrived at Cologne at one o'clock. This town is of considerable extent

and traffic, and has a population of upwards of 50,000 inhabitants. The

great object of attraction for the stranger is the magnificent church,

or cathedral, one of the finest in Europe, the dome one hundred and

eighty feet high, and the interior illuminated with beautiful stained

glass windows; the portraits as large as life, and magnificently

executed. I was, however, more pleased by the exquisite architecture of

the exterior; when finished, the effect will be grand in the extreme. On

the south side of the town are strong fortifications, opposite to which

is a promenade, that runs along a narrow slip of plantation on the

exterior side of them. There are also numerous fields for the growth of

vegetables. I here observed a small nursery garden well stocked with

fruit trees and shrubs. At a short distance from this I saw a large

building which I concluded to be a military barrack or magazine, which

was guarded by soldiers. By the time that I had completed my survey of

the town, I found that it was approaching to the hour that the diligence

was to leave for Aix-la-Chapelle. I started about seven o'clock in the

evening for this town, where we arrived at four o'clock the following

morning.

Sept. 23rd. Having a few hours to stop before the diligence set out, I

proceeded to the cathedral, where the celebration of the mass was

performing. It is a very splendid building, the interior highly

ornamented on the ceiling with fine fresco paintings.

The town hall, or now police office, is also a very magnificent

building; I observed some fine paintings in the interior.

The several celebrated mineral springs in this town are nearly as hot as

those at Baden; leading from the Baths, is a handsome street and a

number of good houses, that appeared to have been recently erected. At a

short distance from the town is a prettily planted hill, which must

command a fine prospect from its top of the surrounding country and

scenery; but my time would not permit a visit to it. In the vicinity of

Aix-la-Chapelle are numerous market gardens, but I observed no nursery

stock. The road leading from hence to Liege is considerably varied, and

the ground apparently of a rich fertile nature. The town of Liege is

situated in a beautiful valley, at the junction of the river Meuse with

the Ourthe, and surrounded by hills and fertile pasture, the latter

being watered by three rivers, the Ourthe, the Vestre, and the Meuse.

This city contains a great many very fine built houses, and is much

celebrated for its various manufactories, which principally consist of

marble, coal, iron, and various other hardware articles. The old palace

is a fine antique building of the Ionic order; the different apartments

in it were then undergoing a thorough repair. The viranda that surrounds

the inner square is now formed into an arcade of shops. From this palace

I proceeded to the old citadel on mount St. Walburgh, which commands a

fine view of the town, the river Meuse, and the surrounding scenery, for

several miles in extent.

Sept. 24th. Went this morning to the cathedral, the architectural

arrangements of which are very imposing; the interior decorations are

well deserving of the stranger's notice, as well as its richly

ornamented ceiling, and beautifully painted windows, and several fine

pictures and groups of sculpture. I next proceeded to M. Makoy's

nursery, which is situated about two or three English miles from the

town. It contains an extensive collection of plants, which are extremely

well grown, and all in fine saleable condition. The spirited proprietor

was then erecting another extensive range of hothouses, and heating it

with hot water, which, together with the numerous houses he has already,

will extend his plant houses to about six hundred feet in length. In

this nursery I observed one of the best collections of green-house

plants, that I met with on the continent; they were undoubtedly not

surpassed in their growth by any collection that I have seen; the

_Camellias_, _Cacteæ_, and orchideous plants, also form a prominent

feature in this establishment, as well as the collection of _Azaleas_,

and _Rhododendrons_, which were all in fine condition, the nursery

ground in good keeping, and well stocked with fruit trees.

On my return I visited the botanic garden, which surrounds the

university, and contains nearly two English acres of ground, in which is

cultivated a good collection of hardy perennials, and _Gramineæ_ plants.

There are also three hothouses for the growth of tropical and Cape

plants. In the stove I observed a very fine specimen of the _Dracæna

Draco_, (Dragon tree,) which was twenty two feet high; the _Caladium

lacerum_ had also attained the height of fifteen feet; there was

likewise a very fine plant of the _Crinum amabile_, then in flower. The

university is a magnificent building, and is at present having large

additions made to it.

I started at twelve o'clock for Namur. The road, leading along the river

Meuse, is extremely picturesque, the large rocks and varied surface give

it a fine appearance. Along the banks by the road side I observed the

common box growing in great abundance. We skirted an extensive tract of

vineyards, which are cultivated along the banks or rising ground on the

right side of the river Meuse, as we pass from Liege to Huy. At this

town we cross the river by a stone bridge. Huy contains a number of well

built houses, and is pleasantly situated, being surrounded by lofty

rocks, with a strong fortification. The road skirting the river Meuse

from Huy to Namur, appeared to me to be of the most romantic and

beautiful scenery that I had previously met with, particularly a part

of it, when approaching within a few miles of Namur, where the rocks and

varied surface give it a most interesting appearance. In a picturesque

spot on this line of road we have in full view the summer chateau of the

prince d'Aremberg, as well as various other handsome residences.

Arrived at seven o'clock in the evening at Namur, when there commenced a

tremendous storm of thunder and lightning and rain, which continued for

several hours. Namur is a strongly fortified town, situated in a valley,

at the junction of the rivers Meuse and Sambre. The cathedral is an

object of interest; but as I left the same evening by diligence for

Mons, I was unable to see this noble structure.

The view from the bridge opposite the fortifications has a grand

appearance to the eye of the stranger. Left Namur at half past nine

o'clock, and arrived at Mons at ten o'clock the following morning.

Sept. 25th. Mons is a strongly fortified town, and abounds with market

gardens in the environs. It appeared to be the centre of a great

agricultural district. Coal-works are likewise very abundant in its

vicinity.

I proceeded from this town to Bel[oe]il in a cabriolet; passing through

a fertile country, and a fine plantation belonging to the Prince de

Ligne, which contained some fine beech trees, with numerous avenues, but

a horrid road; the wheels of the cabriolet sinking up near to the

axeltree for the greater part of the journey. On my arrival at

Bel[oe]il I was unfortunate in not finding the Prince at home, as I had

a letter of introduction to his highness from Sir Robert Adair. I found

some difficulty in obtaining admittance into the gardens; but on the

arrival of a gentleman belonging to the establishment, he gave orders to

one of the guards to conduct me through the grounds to the kitchen

garden. The palace is surrounded by water, and at the principal front is

a large oblong sheet of water, with a large mass of sculpture at its

extremity. The prospect from the palace windows, along this piece of

water and the avenue, which is formed by high clipped hornbeam hedges,

as well as by the lime-tree, appeared very fine, and extended for

several miles in a straight direction. The grounds are very extensive,

and intersected by numerous avenues of hornbeam hedges, which are of

great height, with various arborial windows cut in them from eight to

ten feet from the ground. In short, the number of avenues and well-clipt

hedges that lead in every direction through these grounds, render it a

place well worthy of a visit, and constitute a different feature in

gardening from what is generally to be met with elsewhere.

The Prince has an extensive range of houses for the growth of exotics,

all connected with a large opaque-roofed orangery, which forms a centre

to the range; the wings are of different heights, and have a very good

effect. I here observed a more magnificent _Araucaria excelsa_ than I

had previously seen, with the exception of that at Dropmore, which is

much larger, and more beautiful. This orangery is a capacious building,

principally erected with red brick, with upright lights only in front,

the roof being slated. It contains a large assortment of orange trees,

in good health. There is also a house devoted to _Camellias_, containing

about two hundred and forty sorts. The botanic stoves are well stocked

with healthy plants, but there are very few of the new or lately

introduced species amongst them. I observed here a very fine specimen of

the _Coccoloba pubescens_, the leaves of which appeared to me to be more

luxuriant than on any other plant of this species that I had previously

seen. The _Urania speciosa_ was also particularly fine, and several

other kinds in a flourishing state.

In the same compartment with the plant-houses is placed an extensive

range of pine-apple and melon-pits, as well as several structures of

peach and vine framing. In the kitchen-garden a large assortment of the

hardy fruits are cultivated, especially pears and apples; the former are

trained as standards along the borders, in a pyramidal form, and

appeared to produce excellent crops. The kitchen-gardens and

pleasure-grounds, although very extensive, were in a very rough state;

the only part kept in good order seemed to be the plant-houses and

hedges.

From Bel[oe]il I proceeded to Ath, a very strongly fortified town. The

country from Prince de Ligne's to Ath is very fine, and consists of a

rich agricultural soil in a high state of cultivation, producing

excellent crops. The town is said to contain about 80,000 inhabitants;

the ancient tower of Brabant forms a prominent object, and the church of

Julien is well worth notice.

Sept. 26th. Left Ath at eight o'clock in the morning, in a cabriolet,

for Enghien, which is only a small town; but the fine park, and gardens

belonging to the duke d'Aremberg, which are situated close to the town,

are objects of general attraction. Unfortunately the castle or mansion

was burned down during the late revolution, and his highness now chiefly

resides in an ancient mansion near Louvain. The duke has lately built a

very fine range of hothouses for the growth of tropical plants; they are

four hundred and sixty feet long, and are divided into several

divisions; the centre, which is occupied as a stove for the more lofty

of the tropical plants, is sixty-six feet long, thirty four high, and

twenty five wide. In this house the _Urania speciosa_ had attained the

height of thirty three feet; the _Displotanium argenteum_ also thirty

three feet; this is a beautiful _Palm_. The _Caryota urens_ had likewise

grown to the height of thirty two feet; the circumference of its stem at

six inches from the ground is three feet three inches, gradually

tapering towards the top. _Cycas circinalis_, fourteen feet in height

and very healthy; the _Corypha umbraculifera_ twenty four feet in

height, a very beautiful palm; and a very fine specimen of the _Latania

rubra_, the _Carolina princeps_, had reached the top of the house, and

had been cut back. Numerous other species were here in a very healthy

state, and a very extensive collection of Cape and New Holland plants.

This extensive range is handsomely finished with cut stone parapet

walls, and projecting cornice over the top lights. There is another

range about one hundred and thirty feet long, with span roof, separate

from the principal range, in which are cultivated pines, bulbs, and

various other plants. In front of these ranges of hothouses is a large

lawn, with several clumps of the different species of hardy plants,

which are also extensively cultivated in this establishment. A handsome

temple is situated at a short distance from the gardens, which is

surrounded by water, from this temple diverge seven fine beech and

horse-chesnut avenues, looking in as many directions; between each are

smaller avenues parallel to them, which are terminated by handsome stone

vases. At a short distance from the avenues is the orangery, which is of

large dimensions, with an opaque roof; The orange trees were very

healthy, and formed an avenue in front of the house. M. Bedinghans, the

gardener, informed me that they only shifted them once in five years, in

a mixture of loam and leaf-mould, with a little cow-dung intermixed. At

the back of the orangery are several arched walks, formed by hornbeam

hedges, with arborial windows cut in them; they form a pleasant and

shady promenade during the summer months. The park is also very

extensive and considerably varied in its surface.

M. Bedinghans is a native of Germany, and a very intelligent young man,

seemingly much attached to his business. He accompanied me to the

nursery garden of M. Parmentier, which is situated in the town of

Enghien. In this establishment, there is a celebrated collection of

plants, amongst which I observed a fine specimen of the _Melocactus

mitriformis_ which measured three feet in circumference, and eighteen

inches in height; and _Melocactus hystrix_ also a very fine plant. The

_Echinocactus boutillieri_, is a beautiful specimen; _Cereus

bonplandia_, _Mammillaria acanthoplegma_, _melocactus macrocanthus_; for

a plant of this latter species M. Parmentier asked three hundred francs.

The _Zamia furfuracea_ is also very fine; as well as beautiful specimens

of the following, _Wallichia caryotoides_, _Borassus flabelliformis_,

_Latania glaucophylla_, _Pandanus turbinatus_, _amaryllifolius_,

_f[oe]tidus_, _bromelifolius_, _glaucus_, _candalabrium_. The _pinus

Damara_ M. Parmentier valued at fifty guineas, and the _Magnolia

plumieri_, from the Island of St. Domingo, at eighty guineas: the _Butea

superba_ a fine plant, and fine specimens of the following species:

_Sterculia villosa_, _Stanhopea occulenta_, _Careya sphærica_,

_Theoprastus Americanus_, _Gesnera barbata_, _Boronia grandiceps_,

_Pinus pinnata_, and _Mexicana_; with numerous other rare species. Above

four hundred sorts of _Camellias_, and upwards of five hundred kinds of

_Cacteæ_, are cultivated in this fine collection.

The hothouses are very extensive, but getting rather into a decayed

state, and are not kept in good repair. After visiting this

establishment, I started by the diligence for Brussells, where I arrived

in time to see a splendid display of fireworks, which was exhibited

about ten o'clock; the town was likewise brilliantly illuminated in

celebration of the late revolution. It contains a number of fine

capacious streets, and well built houses. In the course of the present

year, 1835, it was stated that not less than thirty thousand strangers

had visited Brussells.

Sept. 27th. Having a letter of introduction from His Excellency Lord G.

W. Russell to Sir George Hamilton, I waited on him this morning; and

afterwards proceeded to visit several of the churches; amongst which was

the celebrated Notre-Dame-de-la-Chapelle, which is a beautiful Gothic

structure. The marble altar, which is executed from the designs of

Rubens, is extremely beautiful, as is likewise the pulpit. St. Michael's

church is also a fine Gothic building. I visited this in the evening,

whilst they were engaged singing, and various clergymen were then

present. This ancient structure is richly ornamented with beautiful

pictures and painted glass windows. The oak pulpit attracts much

attention on account of the richness of its carving, which represents

the expulsion of Adam and Eve.

I also visited the Duke d'Aremberg's town-house, which is much

celebrated for its library and Antiquities, and contains several fine

paintings in the various apartments, together with a collection of

Etruscan vases, and a head of Laocoon. Attached to this mansion his

grace has a very fine riding-house, where several paintings were

deposited. I next proceeded to see a representation of St. Petersburgh,

which was then exhibiting in Brussells, consisting of a model of the

various streets, squares, houses and gardens of that splendid city,

which appeared to attract many visitors.

I proceeded in the afternoon to the Botanic Garden; but as it was wet I

was unable to find any one to accompany me through the grounds, owing to

the absence of the gardener; I therefore deferred going through them

until a better opportunity, when I paid them another visit.

Sept. 28th. Started at six o'clock in the morning by diligence for

Waterloo, where we arrived at half-past eight; and having procured a

guide, I was conducted over this celebrated field of action, which is

now all under a fine system of agriculture. I proceeded to the noted

chateau at Hougoumont, which is enclosed by a brick wall, and still

exhibits the marks of bullets. About the centre of the field of battle

is a large mount, raised in commemoration of that eventful day; it

measures 1680 feet in circumference at the base, and is about 200 feet

high. On the top is placed the Belgic Lion, said to weigh 48,000 lbs.

On my return through the little village of Waterloo, I visited the

church, which contains a large number of tombs, in memory of the British

officers who fell in the field of battle.

I got back to Brussells about one o'clock, when I proceeded to the

palace of Lacken, and having a letter of introduction to the gardener,

from Mr. M'Intosh at Claremont, ready access was obtained to the gardens

and grounds attached to this royal residence.

The palace stands on an eminence, commanding a fine view of Brussells

and the adjoining country, particularly towards the south. The Antwerp

road leading to Brussells is very conspicuous from several points of

view from the grounds. From the palace towards the south the pleasure

ground falls very considerably, and is much varied in surface, with

several very pretty vistas, intersected by numerous walks, leading to

different objects of interest. A large sheet of water, which appears in

view from the palace windows, as well as from several other points in

the grounds, forms a very pretty feature: over a part of this lake a

fine wooden bridge crosses to a small island, and at the other extremity

is a large grotto, formed by very large rough stones. Various

improvements are in constant progress in the pleasure-ground, the whole

of which is kept in very good order, a circumstance of rare occurrence

in Belgium. Two fine hothouses for plants have been erected during the

last two years, from plans furnished by Mr. M'Intosh, the gardener at

Claremont, who has also superintended the erection of several pine-pits,

and contemplates the addition of an extensive range of forcing-houses at

the King's palace of Lacken. From Mr. M'Intosh's well known abilities as

a scientific and practical gardener, the superintendance could not be

entrusted to a more suitable person.

The houses lately erected there are very neatly finished, and well

adapted to their purpose, as well as the pine pits; the pine-apples

grown here by M. Forkhall, the gardener at Lacken, were superior to any

that I had previously met with on the continent. The young plants were

also clean and healthy, and the exotic plants were in a very flourishing

state, many of them in fine flower. There is likewise an extensive

orangery, with a fine collection of healthy trees, which are much

cultivated in Belgium, as well as in Germany. Near the orange-house were

several clumps of flowering plants, amongst them some fine varieties of

the dahlia. His Majesty's taste for plants and horticultural pursuits

has not abated since he came to the throne; consequently numerous good

plants are daily added to his collection. I observed a fine specimen of

the _K[oe]lreuteria paniculata_, in fine flower, the _Catalpa

syringifolia_ in great beauty, and several other fine growing hardy

species.

Sept. 29th. Left Brussells, for baron de Hoogarts's, which is about nine

English miles from the town, and whose garden contains several

hothouses, in which are forced pines, grapes, and peaches. There are

likewise several low pits for the cultivation of the pine, vine and

peach. The pit used here for accelerating the peach, is nine feet wide,

and the back wall five feet above the ground level; the front wall is

only twenty one inches high, above the level of the ground, and consists

of brick piers, with wood boards betwixt them, which are taken out, when

the trees are removed or introduced into these pits, which operation is

generally performed annually. Towards the back, is a flue for giving

heat, which is applied as well as that from dung, for the forwarding of

the fruit. There is also here a good kitchen garden, with a high

circular wall, well stocked with good peach, apricot and pear-trees;

amongst the latter I observed the _Beurre dore_ very fine, _Glout

Morceau_, _Cuisse Madame_, also fine showy fruits and prolific bearers,

the _poire de melon_, _cale basse_ were likewise fine fruit, and

producing great crops. A fine collection of the standard pears, was also

growing in this garden. Adjoining to it is situated the orangery, which

stands on an eminence, and commands a pretty view of the grounds, and

sheet of water. There is likewise a good collection of Cape and other

plants from Botany Bay, and several clumps of rhododendrons throughout

the grounds in a flourishing state. The park is but of limited extent,

considerably varied.

Adjoining to baron de Hoogart's, is the seat of count de Beaufforts, to

which Miss Hoogart had the goodness to send their gardener to accompany

me. At this place is an old castle, situated by the side of a lake which

was undergoing great alterations and additions.

The grounds attached to this ancient castle, although of limited extent,

are much varied, and prettily planted, with different clumps of trees

and shrubs dispersed through them. In the kitchen garden is a very

handsome range of hothouses, about 120 feet in length, chiefly occupied

with plants; one of the divisions is allotted for the pine apple, and in

front of the range are also several pits, for pines, vines, and peaches.

The pits used for the forcing of the vine and peach have each a flue

that runs parallel to the back wall, and about eighteen inches from it.

The front of those for the vine and peach has no front wall, only piers

and boards fixed betwixt them, for the facility of removing and taking

in the trees, which are planted betwixt the piers, when the boards are

again placed in their former position over the stem of the trees, the

roots running in a border on the outside of the pit.

On my return in the afternoon to Brussels, I visited the Museum, the

collection in which is well deserving of notice; there is a numerous

variety of insects, a large collection of birds and animals, as well as

minerals.

The picture gallery is a fine apartment, situated in the same building,

and contains a large number of splendid paintings; a very magnificent

painting of the Belgic revolution, which nearly covered the entire end

of the gallery, was exhibiting, and seemed to attract a vast number of

visitors. In another wing of the building is a repository of the various

articles of Belgic manufacture, which was much crowded by spectators. I

should imagine from the appearance of the numerous articles of commerce

exhibited in these apartments that there can scarcely be a single

article of manufacture that is not to be met with in this repository of

commerce.

Having a letter of introduction from Mr. M'Intosh to Mr. Bigwood, a

partner of Mr. Salter, the banker, in Brussells, I called on him in the

evening, when he very kindly accompanied me to several of the diligence

offices, and pointed out to me the best routes to take in order to save

time; I then engaged a place for Paris for the following Saturday--a

precaution found necessary, owing to the number of strangers then in

Brussells; some of whom it was understood had been detained for several

days in consequence of the diligences being so crowded. I also took a

place for Ghent, the next town I intended visiting, which is situated

about twenty-four miles from Brussells.

Sept. 30th. Immediately on my arrival at Ghent I proceeded to the

nursery garden of M. Vangeert, which contains several hothouses, and a

good collection of plants; there are also in this nursery several pits

for the dwarf growing species; a good collection of _Camellias_ appeared

to be grown here, and also some _Cacteæ_ and orchideous plants, with

some _Magnolias_ new to our English collections. The Ghent _Azaleas_

have now become celebrated for the profusion of their flowers and

various colours; they were in great abundance in the nurseries here,

beset with flower buds. The _Magnolia conspicua_ and _Magnolia

norbertiana_ are fine specimens. The soil in the vicinity of Ghent

appears peculiarly adapted for the _Magnolia_, _Azalea_, and other

American plants.

I next visited the nursery of M. Verleeuwen, which contains about two

English acres of ground, and from eight to ten different small

hothouses, with a fine collection of plants, that were all very well

grown. A choice collection of _Camellias_ is also cultivated here, as

well as _Azaleas_, _Rhododendrons_, and other hardy plants well worthy

of notice.

I then proceeded to the Ghent Botanic Garden, but was unfortunate in not

finding M. Donkelar (the gardener) at home; this garden appeared to

contain only from two to three English acres of ground: it is too much

crowded with large trees and shrubs for so confined a space. There are

two hothouses devoted to the growth of tropical plants which were in a

very flourishing state, but deficient of the more showy and new species

of late introduction. The orangery is a large building, with Ionic

columns and dark roofs; the trees appeared very healthy. There are also

some low houses, or rather pits, in front of the principal range, which

were well stocked with pines and low growing plants.

I next visited the nursery grounds of M. A. Verschaffelt, which are more

extensive than any of the other nurseries I had yet seen, and contain

about the best collection of plants in Ghent; he has some fine

_Magnolias_, amongst which I observed the _Magnolia triumphans_,

_Glauca_, _Arborea_, and _Gigantea_. His collection of _Camellias_ is

also very choice and deserving of notice, amongst which were the

_Camellia compacta-rubra_, _Alexandria_, and _Magnificum_; a plant of

this species he values at one hundred francs. There are also many other

choice sorts; and his collection of Cape and New-Holland plants is

likewise extensive: he is forming a collection of _Orchideæ_, and has

erected a small house for their growth; he has likewise a good

collection of _Cacteæ_, a choice assortment of the Ghent _Azaleas_, and

other hardy plants, that appear to flourish well in Belgium.

The nursery I next visited was that of M. Verschaffelt, sen., which

appeared to be about an acre of ground, but it contained a good

assortment of _Rhododendrons_, also a large green-house with span-roof,

as well as several other small houses; a great stock of myrtles was

likewise cultivated in this establishment. I next proceeded to the

nursery of F. J. Spæ-fils, which contains about two acres and a half,

with a range of hothouses one hundred and fifty feet long. I here

observed a large stock of seedling _Azaleas_ and _Kalmias_, also a

well-stocked wall of trained peach trees. The standard fruit trees are

also extensively cultivated, the situation being evidently well

calculated for the growth of the different plants in demand in that

country. After leaving this nursery I went to that of M. P. Byls, whose

ground contains several small hothouses, but little of novelty in them;

a few good hardy shrubs were, however, in the grounds. Attached to this

nursery is a piece of ground under vegetable cultivation, which is

extensively pursued in the neighbourhood of Ghent. I visited one or two

other nurseries of small extent, but met with nothing of much importance

in them, as they were more limited than either of those mentioned.

The cathedral of Ghent is considered one of the most handsome Gothic

buildings in Belgium. The pulpit is a most beautiful specimen of

workmanship, and is composed of white marble and richly-carved oak; near

the great altar are magnificent antique candelabras, said formerly to

have belonged to Charles the First of England, and were suspended in the

old church of St. Paul's in London. Amongst the splendid paintings that

ornament this cathedral are Lazarus rising from the dead, by Otto

Vennius, St. John the Baptist, the Virgin Mary, and the Paschal Lamb.

Our Saviour is also represented on a throne holding a crystal sceptre.

There are likewise two marble statues that represent the Apostles St.

Paul and St. Peter, and numerous other beautiful paintings.

I took my departure at ten o'clock for Antwerp, where we arrived at six

the following morning.

Oct. 1. Immediately on my arrival I proceeded to the top of the Antwerp

steeple, or tower, which consists of six hundred and twenty two steps,

and is four hundred and sixty-six feet in height, from the top of which

a beautiful view of the town is seen, and a vast extent of fertile

country. The Island of Walcheren and some of the Dutch steeples were

pointed out to me in the distance. The citadel, which now appears to be

all covered with grass, is very plainly seen from the top of this

steeple, and the number of vessels in the Scheldt add life to the scene.

The cathedral is reckoned one of the finest Gothic buildings in Europe;

the interior is superb, and richly ornamented by the magnificent

paintings of Rubens. I observed numerous very splendid marble columns.

The altar is executed with marble, and ornamented with a representation

of the Assumption. There is also a splendid painting of the Disciples at

Emmaus, by Herreyns, portraits of Luther and Calvin, and numerous other

celebrated objects, which to attempt to particularize would require one

more intimately acquainted with the subject than I can pretend to be.

The painted windows are equally elegant.

I next visited St. James's Church, which is a very splendid building,

and richly decorated with fine paintings and superb marble columns; the

altar is inlaid with black and white marble, and supported by handsome

twisted columns, and various groups of sculpture. The pulpit is most

elegantly sculptured, and the beautiful specimens of carved oak are

deserving of notice, as likewise is the splendour of the painted

windows. There is also a fine picture of the Last Supper, by Otto

Vennius, one of the Last Judgment, by Willemsen, the Tomb of Rubens, and

a painting by him, of our Saviour on his mother's knees, surrounded by a

number of figures, all of which are said to be portraits of the

painter's wives and family. After seeing these two magnificent churches,

I proceeded to the nursery garden of M. Vangeert, which is situated

about two English miles from the city; it contains a very good

collection of hardy perennial plants, as well as _Azaleas_ and other

American shrubs. The hothouses here are about one hundred and fifty feet

long, in several divisions, and a good-sized pit for the half-hardy

sorts. I here observed the best crop and finest bunches of hothouse

grapes that I had previously met with on the continent. I was much

indebted to M. Vangeert, jun., for his attention in accompanying me to

the various gardens that he considered to be most deserving of notice

in the neighbourhood of Antwerp.

We proceeded to the Antwerp Botanic Garden, which is but of limited

extent, I think not above an acre of ground in it. There is a

green-house placed about the centre of the garden, but its occupants

appeared to be of rather distant introduction, and little amongst them

of novelty except a very fine specimen of the _Araucaria Braziliensis_,

which was growing in a tub, and then standing out of doors.

There were likewise two or three other small houses for tropical plants,

which were in a very flourishing state, particularly those cultivated in

the stove.

They have in this garden a tolerably good collection of the _Genus

Pinus_, amongst which is a dwarf sort, named there the _Pinus

monstrosa_, but it appears to be only a variety of the _Pinus cembra_.

It formed a very close bush, not exceeding two feet in height.

The next garden we visited was that of the late M. Jean Veanhal, which,

during his time, was much celebrated for rare and good plants. Although

there was but a small piece of ground in this garden, yet it contained a

good collection, and several very good hothouses, in which were

cultivated pine-apples and other tropical plants, which were in a very

flourishing state, and the whole neatly kept.

We next proceeded to M. Moen's nursery ground, which is also but of

limited extent, but contains a number of good _Magnolias_, _Azaleas_,

and other hardy plants, as well as many good greenhouse species. In this

nursery there is a fine collection of _Camellias_. M. Moen informed me

he had about two hundred seedling varieties and species. I saw here a

fine specimen of the _Camellia reticulata_, about five feet high; M.

Moen valued this plant at sixty guineas. There are some pretty good

greenhouses in this nursery, also a good collection of pears that were

in full bearing, and producing fine crops.

We proceeded next to the seat of M. Caters De-wolfe, which is several

miles from Antwerp; the grounds attached to this residence are prettily

laid out, particularly a sheet of water, which is amongst the best I

have seen; it is formed so as to produce a picturesque effect from

several points of view. At a contracted part of it a wooden bridge is

constructed across, springing on both sides on elevated well-formed

artificial pieces of rockwork. In the pleasure ground are three very

pretty curvilinear iron-bar hothouses, erected by Baily, of London, and

devoted to the growth of exotic plants and pine-apples, which evidently

fully answered in that climate their intended purpose. Here is also a

good kitchen garden, with numerous low houses and pits for the growth of

the pine, vine and peach, as well as one devoted to orchideous plants, a

collection of which was just then forming. The pines and exotic plants

in this establishment were all in a very flourishing state, and the

gardens in pretty fair keeping.

We next proceeded to the seat of Le Chevalier Parthon Divan, whom I

found devotedly attached to horticultural pursuits. The grounds attached

to his château are very prettily formed, and are situated about four

English miles from Antwerp. This gentleman pointed out to me the

_Rhododendron ferrugineum_, with white flowers, which I believe is

hardly to be met with in any other collection. He has many good and rare

species of greenhouse plants. I saw from five to seven species of

_Scotia_, also a fine specimen of the _Scotia angustata_; a collection

of _Orchideæ_ is also cultivated here; and he has lately introduced many

new and curious species of this tribe of plants, as well as some new

_Cacteæ_. The variety of dahlias cultivated here was particularly fine;

a very complete arrangement of herbaceous plants growing along the face

of a bank in their natural arrangement forms also an interesting feature

in these grounds, the exterior of which is bounded by a plantation, in

which are formed various beech avenues. This gentleman disposes of his

duplicate plants to any one who will purchase them, but did not seem

inclined to make any exchanges.

We next visited the gardens of Madame Smetz, which are situated about

four miles from the last place. These grounds are celebrated for their

extent of hot houses and other garden ornaments, which may justly

entitle them to be considered as presenting a greater variety of

picturesque objects than any garden in Belgium. There is a very good

greenhouse, with a pretty fair collection of plants in very neat order,

and a corresponding house for the growth of stove plants. I here

observed the _Pandanus odoratissimus_, fifteen feet high, with four

large branches diverging from it. A large orangery, that runs parallel

to the north ends of the stove and greenhouse, forms a centre betwixt

the two latter buildings, that appear like two projecting wings to the

orange-house; there are also several low houses and pits for pines,

vines, and peaches. The pines in these gardens were amongst the best

grown that I had previously met with on the continent. I observed a

plant with seven fruits on it all branching from the top of a single

stem. There were also some very fine dwarf cockscombs growing in a pit.

The superb Chinese tower is more deserving of notice than anything of

the kind that I have yet seen, being of a considerable height, from

sixty to eighty feet I should imagine from its appearance, with a

handsome staircase leading to the top, from whence there is a fine

prospect of these extensive grounds, which are curiously laid out; in

this Chinese building a couple of handsomely fitted up rooms are

occasionally used for taking tea or coffee.

There are numerous walks leading through various parts of the grounds to

secluded spots, where we come unexpectedly on groups of figures in

stone, such, for instance, as a group of boys at play, figures of old

men, and groups of sheep grazing in the grounds, which are very

naturally executed, and at a short distance formed a very good

deception; there are also numerous marble busts and pieces of sculpture.

A sheet of water, with rock-work and a wooden bridge, appear prominent

objects from the Chinese temple. Opposite to the south and north sides

of the mansion are curiously clipped box hedges, with pyramidal formed

bushes on their top; the intervening spaces being clipped into irregular

figures, presenting a curious appearance. A rock bridge, over the narrow

part of a sheet of water, is deserving of notice; but the wooden bridges

here and elsewhere in Belgium are made more for the intention of

permitting ships to pass under them, than for the ease of the visitors

in walking over them. I also observed several painted arbours and

recesses in different parts of the grounds, and one of the finest

specimens of the purple beech that I have ever seen, which is a truly

magnificent tree. The kitchen cropping, such as cabbages, asparagus,

&c., being carried close up to the house, is in very bad taste; these

vegetables all appearing in view from the principal windows do not

harmonize with the ornamented ground, which, in such an extensive piece,

might easily be cultivated in a much more appropriate spot.

Oct. 2nd. Left Antwerp at six o'clock a.m., passing through a beautiful

fertile country, which abounds in vegetable and other green crops; we

arrived at Malines about eight o'clock; it contains about twenty

thousand inhabitants, and has some pretty churches, and an ancient

cathedral. The rail-road from Brussels to Malines had been completed for

some time, and was expected to be finished as far as Antwerp by the end

of another month, and to proceed from hence to Paris. At Malines I

quitted my tedious mode of conveyance for the rail road--a much more

pleasant and expeditious mode of travelling. We were about forty minutes

going by it the distance of twelve English miles; a heavy train of

carriages and a strong wind right ahead, prevented our accomplishing the

distance in the usual time, which was said in general to occupy the

space of from twenty to thirty minutes.

On my arrival at Brussells I proceeded to the establishment of M. J. F.

Vandermaelen, which consists of an extensive collection of geographical

books, minerals, birds, insects, and plants, from various climates,

which this gentleman offers for mutual exchanges, with the view of

furthering the interests of science and natural history.

The grounds attached to it are rather confined, but prettily varied,

with water, and rising and undulating ground. There are also

several very good hothouses, and a choice collection of plants. M.

Vandermaelen's catalogue enumerates nearly two hundred and forty

sorts of _Camellias_ and above four hundred and fifty sorts of

_Pelargoniums_. I here observed a specimen of the _Cactus senilis_,

about two feet in height; several other very fine and curious species

were likewise to be seen here. M. Vandermaelen has also sent out a

collector in search of _Cacteæ_ and other orchideous plants.

I next proceeded to the Brussells Botanic Garden, which contains the

most ornamental range of hothouses that I have seen, and some noble

specimens of palms. The _Caryota urens_ about forty-five feet high, its

girth at eighteen inches from the ground, four feet. The _Arenga

saccharifera_ and the _Carica Papaya_ both forty feet in height. The

_Elate sylvestris_ had also reached to the glass. The _Latania

borbonia_, about eighteen feet high, the fronds spreading in the like

proportion. The _Pandanus odoratissimus_, a fine specimen, and various

other species equally luxuriant. This magnificent range of plant houses

are all heated with steam, and the sash bars formed of wrought

iron;--the effect of it from the Boulevards is really grand. The

principal range being situated on a terrace, with several fountains and

broad flights of steps in front of it, has a very imposing appearance;

on a lower level in front of these houses and terrace, are two ranges

constructed with curvilinear iron bars, which are occupied by pine-apple

plants and other dwarf tropical species. Opposite to the hothouses are

the herbaceous grounds, which are laid out in a circular form, divided

in small divisions, for the Linnean arrangement of the hardy perennial

plants, each class forming a separate piece of ground radiating from the

centre. This garden consists of a fine irregular piece of ground, and is

much varied in its surface, having five different levels, and is placed

in a fine situation; but I regretted to see the ground occupied by a

quantity of common forest trees and shrubs, and but little of novelty or

good plants in it: the common sorts were grown principally for sale, and

for the support of the garden, which practice I understood was

extensively adopted in this establishment. The hothouse and greenhouse

species were ticketed with the price required for the different plants.

I next called on Mr. Bigwood, who kindly procured me a sight of the

Prince of Orange's splendid residence, which is justly considered one of

the finest finished palaces in Europe, with most beautiful polished oak

floors, and the walls of several of the apartments inlaid with marble:

in one of the rooms that belonged to the princess is a table of Siberian

lapis lazuli, valued at fifty thousand pounds. The chairs, tables,

paintings, and other superb furniture in the interior of this palace,

with its magnificent staircase, are beyond my powers of description.

The park at Brussells is situated in front of the king's palace, and is

said to contain about fourteen acres of ground, which are laid out as a

public promenade for the inhabitants, with several avenues, and various

groups of sculpture, which are considered of superior execution,

especially the statues of Alexander the Great, and Cleopatra, and the

groups of Diana, Apollo, Narcissus, and Venus. In the avenue fronting

the king's palace are statues of the twelve Roman emperors, and a

fountain, which throws the water from twelve to fifteen feet high.

I proceeded next to Louvain. The entrance to Brussells from the Louvain

gate is very fine, and commands extensive views of the adjacent country,

as well as a part of the town. The small villas leading from this

entrance towards Louvain are handsomely ornamented with tastefully

planted gardens; the road, winding along through a fine agricultural

country, is more varied than in the Antwerp district; the soil

consisting of a deep red loam, produces abundantly red clover, rape, and

other green crops.

October 3rd. The town of Louvain is situated on the river Dyle, which

runs through it. The grand appearance of the Stadt-huis, or now

police-office, is very imposing; the numerous carved figures and spires

that adorn the front are beautiful specimens of workmanship: in the

interior a large apartment is occupied as a picture gallery, in which

are deposited some very fine old paintings: the wainscot ceilings of

some of the rooms are also well worthy of notice.

There are likewise several churches in this town, which are richly

ornamented with paintings and other costly decorations, such as marble

columns.

The botanic garden adjoins the town, and contains from two to three

acres of ground; the space in front of the range of hot houses is

occupied with a collection of hardy perennial plants, and the exterior

of the garden planted by trees and shrubs. The range of plant houses

consists of a long dark-roofed green house, with a circular stove

projecting in front of it at each end, which has a very good effect;

these stoves are constructed with iron bars, and appeared to stand

remarkably well; in one of them was a very fine specimen of the _Latania

rubra_, which was in great luxuriance; the _Maxillaria Harrissonia_, was

quite covered with large flowers. The _Cactus Macrocanthus_, was here

four feet in circumference; several other species were also very fine;

in short, the whole collection were in a healthy and flourishing state.

I found M. Donkelar, the gardener, to be a very intelligent young man,

devotedly attached to his business.

I next proceeded to see the collection of fruits and trees at professor

Van Mons, where I was shewn a large assortment of pears, which the

professor had raised from seed, also many sorts of apples, and several

good seedling grapes and peaches. The professor has long been

distinguished for his attachment to horticultural pursuits; but I

unfortunately did not find him at home; he has, however, forwarded to

me, since my return home, his "Arbres Fruitiers," which describes many

of the fruits cultivated in Belgium. I was much gratified by the fine

collection of pears in the fruit room, and the fine healthy trees in the

professor's gardens, which are well stocked with seedlings, as well as

others in a bearing state.

I next proceeded to the duke d'Aremberg's, which is situated at a short

distance from Louvain, having a letter of introduction from Sir R.

Adair, to his highness, whom I found particularly attached to botany and

horticultural pursuits. The kitchen garden here is very extensive, and

large quantities of vegetables are cultivated; several pits for the

growth of the pine and peach were also in this establishment; but the

collection of choice pears pleased me more than any I had previously

seen, and certainly produced very fine fruit; the following sorts were

pointed out to me as the best deserving of cultivation, which were then

in the fruit room.

Beurre Wirtemberg

Grande Bretagne

Sucre-Vert

Beurre rance

Beey vaet

Beurre bosque

Bergamotte de la Penticote

Beurre d'Hiver

Double d'Automne

Comperete

Kanneck

Passe Colmar

Bezyda Chaumontelle

Fondante De Charnusee

Colmar Jaminette

Beurre d'Angleterre

Bergamotte de paques

St. Germain

Roi de Louvain

Beurre d'Aremberg

Beurre de yelle

St. Bernard

and many other sorts, and fine collections of apples which were also

extensively grown here. I also observed a very fine collection of

seedling dahlias, many of which were very choice flowers, and formed a

gay appearance in the kitchen garden borders in this season. His

highness pointed out to me a noble specimen of the _Platanus

accidentalis_, which measured, at four feet from the ground, thirteen

feet in circumference, and its branches spreading over a space of ground

twenty two yards in diameter; this was a beautiful grown tree, and

appeared in great luxuriance.

The grounds attached to this ancient mansion are very extensive, and

have several fine straight avenue walks, leading in various directions,

one of which is formed by the purple beech planted on each side of the

walk for a considerable distance; but this being a very wet forenoon, I

was unable to see the grounds to advantage. They are a little varied as

we approach the house, and a small stream of water enlivened the

scenery: they appeared to me, however, of much less extent than his

highness's grounds and park at Enghien, where his splendid range of

plant-houses and extensive collection of plants are fixed and deposited.

I left Louvain about four o'clock, and arrived in Brussells just in time

to get my luggage taken to the diligence office, from whence the

diligence started at half-past nine o'clock for Paris.

Oct. 4th. Arrived at Valenciennes, a good sized town: here another

passport was furnished, and my former one taken from me, and retained by

the police until the evening I left Paris. The country between

Brussells and Valenciennes, as far as I could observe, appeared to be of

considerable sameness, but the ground was well cultivated, with good

crops of rape clover; the turnip was evidently a failure here, and in

other parts of the continent, as well as in England.

We arrived at Cambray at two o'clock, a strong fortified town. The

country from Brussells hitherto appeared to be but very thinly planted,

and of little picturesque scenery: as we approached Paris there appeared

very few plantations or trees worthy of notice, and much less variety of

scenery than I passed through in the latter part of my tour through

Germany.

Oct. 5th. Arrived at Paris at half-past ten o'clock, a.m. after a ride

of twenty-four hours. On my arrival I proceeded to the Gardens of the

Tuilleries, where there is a large collection of orange trees, and

several capacious gravel walks, or avenues, with numerous ornamental

groups of sculpture. A space of ground, running parallel to the palace,

about sixty yards wide, has been lately laid out with flower borders,

and is separated from the public promenade by a grass _ha-ha_, with a

slight wire fence on the top of it; in this inclosure are some very fine

orange trees, bronze figures, and ornamental sculpture, arranged along

the edges of the walks.

A very fine walk leads from the palace towards a piece of water at the

entrance from the Place Louis XV., where there are various groups of

sculpture and terrace walks, which have a very imposing effect. The

walks and flower borders in the promenade were in very neat order, and

the triangular pieces of grass not so roughly kept as some I had

previously seen about the seats of royalty. The walk or road leading

from the Place Louis XV. to the magnificent arch now nearly completed on

the rising ground near to the Barrier Neuilly, has a fine effect, and

the prospect from this arch, which is much elevated above the town, is

very grand.

Oct. 6th. This morning I proceeded to the seed establishment of Messrs.

Andrieux and Vilmorin, to whom I had a letter of introduction from Mr.

Lawson, of Edinburgh; these gentlemen very kindly furnished me with a

note of the various gardens and objects most worthy of notice.

I then proceeded to the _Jardin des Plantes_, where I was much gratified

with numerous fine specimens from all quarters of the globe. Mr. W.

Douglas, a young man lately sent to this garden from Chatsworth by the

Duke of Devonshire, conducted me through the various departments. I was

much pleased with the elegant appearance of two very fine houses that

were then nearly completed, one of which was just receiving the plants.

These houses are seventy-two feet long each by forty-two feet wide, and

about fifty feet high; the space where the tubes stand is sunk about six

feet under the floor or foot-path level, so that the whole of the tubs,

boxes, and pots may be concealed, and the plants have the appearance of

being planted out in the border. There is a very handsome marble cistern

about the centre of the house for supplying the plants with water. These

houses consist of a double span roof, are constructed with iron bars,

and heated by steam; the under-ground work is very judiciously arranged:

it appeared from the excavations that were here proceeding, that the

range of glass was to extend to the _Galerie d'Histoire Naturelle_.

There are numerous other hothouses on different elevations well stocked

with healthy plants, one of which is devoted to _Succulentæ_, where I

observed several fine specimens of _Cacteæ_. The curvilinear iron bar

appeared to be the favourite material used for the erection of

plant-houses in this establishment, which must evidently be the most

economical and substantial for large houses. I observed this bar used in

various parts of Belgium and Germany, where they apprehended no fear of

the breakage of glass by expansion or contraction, although the frost is

much more intense in those countries than in this.

I here saw a very fine plant of the _Araucaria Cunninghamia_, which

appeared to be from nine to ten feet high, beautifully feathered from

the pot to the top. The _Araucariæ excelsæ_ were tall plants, but

evidently drawn up, and had been too much confined, as they were not

feathered equal to the specimens at Baron Rothschild's and at Prince de

Ligne's. The ground in this far-famed _Jardin des Plantes_ appeared to

be too contracted for the various purposes that it is devoted to. An

enclosed apartment is under a nursery of trees and shrubs, another for

hardy herbaceous plants, and one planted with a collection of the

various fruits, particularly of pears, in beds about four or five feet

wide, with four feet in width of paths between them; these beds were

covered with short dung, to prevent the roots of the trees from becoming

too dry. The fruit was, unfortunately, all gathered, so that I had not

the pleasure of seeing the various sorts that are here cultivated:

nearly adjoining to the fruit tree department is the zoological

establishment, with a very numerous collection of animals. The museum of

natural history is situated at the extremity of the new range of

hothouses; the collection of birds, minerals, quadrupeds, shells, &c. is

really astonishing: there are also numerous specimens of _Fungi_

preserved in one of the departments.

I next visited the nursery garden of M. Noisette, which is well stocked

with _Camellias_ and stove plants; the former had numerous seed vessels

perfecting on them. The small low hothouses are in a very dilapidated

condition, and the plants in a crowded state for want of more room;

although there is a great extent of glass, such as it is. The grounds

are likewise crowded with fir trees, which were evidently planted for

shelter and shade from the effects of the sun, but they give the ground

a cheerless and contracted appearance.

I next proceeded to the vegetable garden of M. de Coufle, which is

considered amongst the best in the neighbourhood of Paris for culinary

forcing, but I saw but very little in it at this season of the year at

all worthy of a visit.

At a short distance from the latter is the garden of Prince D'Esling;

the neatness of this little spot, which was very gay with dahlias and

other autumnal flowers, was very pleasing. There is also cultivated here

a very extensive collection of pine-apples evidently for sale, as at

this season of the year, there must have been nearly two hundred fruit,

and some thousands of young plants, which for health and well-swelled

fruit were but little inferior to any in England. The largest fruit was

grown in a low span-roofed house, and planted out into the beds into a

mixture of sandy peat; the house was six feet six inches high, with a

foot path in the centre, and the beds for plants along each side. The

succession pines are grown in wooden frames with dung linings around

them, and were in great vigour of health. The _Providence_ and

_Montsserats_ were extensively cultivated. A very complete stove for

exotic plants is also here. The _Aristolochia Braziliensis_ was

beautifully in flower, and the other plants in a very healthy state.

I next visited the Pantheon, a noble edifice, with magnificent

architectural columns, and cornice: it is reckoned one of the finest

erections in Paris.

Oct. 7th. Went at six o'clock this morning to see the fruit and

vegetable market: the display of pears, grapes, and wallnuts was very

fine, there were also a number of peaches, but these were rather of an

inferior size to those grown on the open walls in England. The fruit

market was really so crowded with baskets of pears and women that it was

with much difficulty that I could pass through it: there was an abundant

display of vegetables. Cardoons were now brought to market, and a few

bunches of small asparagus; celery appeared in great abundance and of

good quality; various baskets of the Alpine strawberry and a few pretty

good looking melons were also to be had.

I started at eight o'clock for Versailles, passing through a beautiful

part of the country, well planted with numerous handsomely erected

villas, and the road winding along for a considerable distance by the

river Seine.

On my arrival I proceeded to the gardens, where I was quite astonished

at the extent of these magnificent grounds; there were numerous groups

of sculpture and bronze, and fountains ornamented with various figures,

such as sea monsters, dolphins, &c. which spout the water into the

basons, the effect of which, when the water-works are playing, must be

grand in the extreme.

The various terraces, parterres, and avenues, the latter leading in

every direction, with their beautiful groups of sculpture, are very

grand.

Under the south terrace is situated the orangery, and from the terrace

walk we look down upon at least several hundred magnificent trees, which

for number and vigour of health, were undoubtedly surpassed by none that

I had previously met with on the continent; I am, however, inclined to

think that there were some at Sans-souci fully as large.

The orange-houses are all formed under the south terrace, and appear

like arched cellars, with only glass windows in front; I could perceive

no means of applying artificial heat, but the windows were furnished

with shutters, which appeared to be the only protection they had against

frost; they were busy at this time removing trees to their winter

quarters.

From the orangery I proceeded through various other parts of the

grounds, and also to the _Grand Trianon_, which is situated about two

English miles from the palace of Versailles; the grounds attached to it

are laid out according to the English style of gardening, with fine

pieces of water, rock-work, temples, and rustic erections. They contain

a fine assortment of hardy trees and shrubs, planted on the grass, which

gave it the appearance of an arboretum, but there seemed to be no

regular arrangement of the plants. There is a green-house attached to

these grounds, and a good show of autumnal flowers in front of it, such

as dahlias and other annuals. The gardener was not at home. On my return

from the garden I took another route through the grounds attached to

Versailles; but to attempt to describe them would have required much

longer time than my cursory visit would permit, or to enumerate the

different objects of interest and magnificence that are dispersed

throughout them. I then visited the kitchen garden department, which

consists of an extensive piece of ground, subdivided into numerous

divisions by walls, on which are trained vines and peaches; the

Fontainbleau grape appeared to ripen and swell its fruit remarkably

well, and was very abundant in its production; it seemed to be more

generally cultivated than any other sort; in front of the vine-wall it

is also grown to a trellising, and produced very fine fruit considering

its being grown out of doors. In one of the compartments devoted to the

peach trees I observed the Royale peach extending over a space of wall

forty-two feet long, and from eighteen to twenty feet high; it was in

excellent health, and regularly furnished with fine bearing shoots. In

another compartment is a collection of standard pear trees.

The forcing ground contains numerous low houses and pits for the growth

of the pine, vine, and peach. The pine-apple in this establishment was

remarkably well grown and fine fruit, and little if any inferior to

those that I have seen. The fruiting plants were also planted out into

beds in light sandy peat soil, which evidently suited them well. The

succession pines at this time were undergoing a shifting and

disrooting,--a practice not generally adopted at this season in England.

Vegetables are extensively cultivated in the gardens, and a good

collection of the hardy fruits, which were all gathered by this time,

consequently I had not the pleasure of seeing the quality or produce

from the different trees.

On my return to Paris I visited the Luxemburg Gardens, which contain

some fine old orange trees and _Nerium oleanders_, arranged on the side

of the walks; the grass-plats are surrounded by flowerbeds and various

avenues of horse chesnuts, ornamented by sculpture, which lead in

different directions, forming a pleasant promenade.

Oct. 8th. This morning I proceeded to M. Boursalt's, who was then

residing out of town; his collection of plants was formerly very

celebrated, but he has lately disposed of the greater part of them, and

an extensive range of plant houses: there being now only two small

flower houses left, which contained some fine specimens of _Camellias_,

and some beautiful marble statues. The Noisette and Chinese roses were

in great beauty, as well as some fine _Magnolias_. This spot of ground,

although apparently not above two acres in extent, is prettily varied

with rock-work, water, and artificial banks.

From hence I visited the Burying-ground at Montmartre, which is thickly

planted with trees and shrubs. I then proceeded to the Louvre, where I

was much gratified by the magnificence of the gallery of paintings, as

well as the incomparable marbles.

I next visited the cemetry of Père la Chaise, which is an extensive

piece of ground, with numerous walks leading through it, and the

different tombs enclosed by the upright cyprus, thujas, and other

shrubs. On my arrival a funeral service was performing in a small

chapel, situated about the centre of the ground, and which was then lit

up by candles. After taking a cursory view of this cemetry I made the

best of my way to Montreuil, to see the celebrated peach-tree gardens;

on my approach to it, I was surprised at the extent of white walls in

this part of the country, which were all chiefly covered with peach

trees and grape vines. After ascertaining that the most celebrated

garden at Montreuil belonged to the Préfet, and was situated at the top

of the hill, I made the best of my way to this spot; I found the owner a

good practical gardener. He took great pains in pointing out to me his

method of pruning and training his peach trees: the English gardener,

however, has nothing to learn in France in the management of the peach

tree; in fact, we can hardly enter into a garden in England that we

cannot find trees more tastefully trained, and fully as well furnished

from the bottom of the wall to the extremity of the tree, as any that I

met with in the neighbourhood of Paris. The peaches on the walls in

this country are much larger than any in France or Belgium, although the

soil and climate in these countries are more congenial to the growth of

this tree, and maturity of its fruit, than our more northern atmosphere.

The roots of the peach tree and vines were all covered this season with

half rotten dung, for the space of from three to four feet from the

wall, which kept the roots in a moist state; the walls generally

averaged from eight to nine feet in height, and were well sheltered by

the number of cross walls that were in the different gardens. I visited

one or two other gardens in the vicinity of the Préfet's, but they

appeared very similar to the one already described.

On my return from Montreuil I made a cursory visit to two small

nurseries, which attracted my attention by the quantity of large orange

trees exhibited for sale, and were to be sold at a very trifling sum in

comparison to what they cost in England.

I also made a hasty visit through Messrs. Vilmorin and Andreux' seed

ground, where there was a large stock of annuals growing for seed, and a

good collection of hardy perennial plants.

Oct. 9th. Started for the Vitry nurseries, which are about six miles

from Paris; the extent of nursery ground under fruit-tree cultivation in

this part of the country extends nearly five miles in length, and the

number of nurseries amount to about two hundred. The Paris markets are

principally supplied from this part of the country. M. Chatenay is

considered the most extensive grower in that line, and has certainly a

fine collection of peach trees and other hardy fruits, which were in a

very healthy moveable condition, as also numerous fine standard rose

trees, these being out of flower I was unable to judge of their merits.

The prices of the fruit trees were very little less than in the London

nurseries for similar sized trees. I observed but little new in

ornamental trees or shrubs, these nurseries being chiefly devoted to the

culture of fruit trees, the soil being peculiarly adapted thereto, being

a rich reddish loam, yet it was in some cases undergoing a strong manure

and fallow. A portion of what was previously occupied by nursery stock

was under the plough. M. Chatenay informed me that they found great

difficulty in procuring a suitable soil for their different fruit trees.

I did not observe any hothouses about Vitry for tender plants. The

nursery grounds extend as far as Choisey, over a large tract of

beautiful ground. I saw large crops of grapes which were used in making

the wine, which is produced in considerable quantities at Vitry.

On my return from these nurseries I proceeded to the nursery

establishment of M. Cels, which contains a fine collection of stove and

greenhouse plants, as well as many rare and hardy species; in short the

collection here is more choice than extensive, and the plants were very

well grown. There are several hothouses and low pits well stocked with

good plants, and a range of new houses then building. This nursery is

considered to contain the best collection of plants about Paris; the

extent of ground is but limited, and not very well kept.

I next desired my guide to conduct me to the flower market, when, after

a considerable walk, I found myself in the flour market, which was well

stocked with sacks of flour and grain. I was, however, much pleased with

the fine circular building, with lofty dome, and the quantity of grain

it contained. I then proceeded to the real flower market, which was held

this afternoon at the Magdalen, a most magnificent building. The

quantity of flowers fell far short of my expectation: the Neapolitan

violet and the more common sorts of autumnal flowers were the principal

stock exposed for sale this day.

Left Paris at seven o'clock in the evening for Rouen, where I arrived on

the morning of the 10th, about ten o'clock. I immediately proceeded to

the nursery garden of Mr. Calvert, where I found an extensive range of

hothouses rapidly falling into a state of dilapidation for want of paint

and other repairs. The nursery ground was also principally in a waste

state, except a part in which dahlias were cultivated, and which were

certainly very fine, containing both the French and English collections.

Mr. Calvert's son informed me that his father was then clearing the

ground of the stock with the intention of removing it to England, where

he intended commencing the nursery business.

I was also informed that the Rouen Botanic Garden was contemplated to be

formed on the site of this nursery, which is unquestionably a fine

situation for it.

I then visited the nursery of M. Vallet, which contains a large quantity

of very fine orange trees, that he was very anxious to dispose of at £10

per tree. There is likewise a good collection of greenhouse plants and

hardy shrubs, as well as standard roses; the latter M. Vallet frequently

brings to England to be disposed of in the London markets.

I next proceeded to the Botanic Garden, which appeared to contain about

an English acre of ground, with two or three old hothouses for plants,

with but a limited stock in them. There appeared to be a pretty good

collection of hardy perennials and annuals, but few shrubs, or

ornamental trees.

I then made the best of my way to M. Prevost's nursery, which is

undoubtedly the most extensive and contains the best collection of

plants about Rouen. The quantity of standard roses cultivated in this

nursery is immense; a priced catalogue of them has been lately printed,

the prices specified in it are very moderate. The blood peach was here

with plenty of fruit on it, but it evidently will not get soft or fit

for use in the open air. I also observed several other ornamental trees

in this establishment; it was likewise well stocked with a large

assortment of fruit trees.

The scenery about Rouen is very beautiful and picturesque, and is varied

by some large white chalk hills: the river, with numerous small vessels,

tends greatly to enliven the scene.

Oct. 11th. Went to see the ancient cathedral, said to have been

commenced by William the Conqueror. I was much pleased with its fine

Gothic appearance, as well as with the paintings, stained glass, and

other ornaments. There is another church in this town, called St. Ouen,

deserving of the stranger's notice, which appeared to me but little

inferior to the cathedral. The _Palais de Justice_ is also a curious old

building.

Left Rouen at eleven o'clock for Dieppe, where we arrived at five in the

evening, passing through a fine varied country, richly clothed with

fruit trees and agricultural produce, which appeared to be in a very

flourishing state.

Oct. 12th. Being confined all this day at Dieppe by contrary winds I

made an excursion round the vicinity of the town, which is very

picturesque and considerably varied, I also visited the nursery garden

of M. Racine, which contained a very fine collection of dahlias,

standard roses, a fine assortment of pears, and other hardy plants; and

a small greenhouse, in which a few good _Cacteæ_, and other showy

plants, were cultivated and in good order.

The cathedral in Dieppe is an ancient building, and worth the notice of

the stranger.

Oct. 13th. Left Dieppe at two o'clock in the morning for Brighton, when

we experienced a pretty tossing for the space of twenty-five hours, in

consequence of contrary winds. The passage is generally performed in ten

or eleven hours when the weather is favourable.

Oct. 14th. We arrived about three o'clock this morning at Shoreham, a

small port, about three miles from Brighton: as soon as day dawned I

made an excursion through the town, and got my luggage ready by ten

o'clock, when I started for London, where I arrived at five in the

afternoon.

Upon the whole, in regard to the general state of Horticulture in the

countries which I visited, the following conclusion must be drawn: The

plants in the hothouses are in most of the establishments kept in

excellent order and in a healthy state; the _Succulentæ_ also appeared

to be much more extensively cultivated than they have hitherto been in

England; But the general order and neatness of the grounds (with only a

very few exceptions) were but little attended to. Nor did they appear to

me to well understand the forcing of fruits, except in one or two places

in France; neither did I perceive that nicety in the training of fruit

trees that is thought indispensable in this country. Vegetables are,

however, in large establishments, more extensively grown; but there

certainly did not appear to be such a general spirit for horticultural

improvement as is now prevailing in this country. At no period was

gardening and the collecting of plants ever pursued with greater spirit

in England than at this moment; insomuch, that we can scarcely visit a

nobleman or gentleman's gardens without observing very extensive

improvements and alterations proceeding in every direction. And this we

cannot but regard as an indication of application and attachment to

rural improvements highly honourable to our nobility and gentry, as

superseding many of those pursuits that used to prevail to a great

extent with gentlemen residing in the country, which had but little

tendency to the improvement of their grounds or estates.