J. F.

JOURNAL

OF A

HORTICULTURAL TOUR,

IN 1835.

August 19th. Left the Custom House at six o'clock, a. m., by the William

Joliffe steam-packet, for Hamburgh; but having a strong easterly wind

a-head, we did not pass the sunk light until a little past four o'clock

in the afternoon.

20th. Sailing at the rate of six miles per hour; still a strong easterly

wind a-head, but a beautiful day, and the sky clear from clouds; about

twelve o'clock we were about twenty-five miles off the Texel, with a

fresh breeze still right a-head.

21st. A beautiful day, but the wind still continuing against us, we

sailed only at the rate of seven miles per hour. About nine o'clock in

the morning the small isle of Heligoland made its appearance, much to

the gratification of the passengers, this island being only a hundred

miles from Hamburgh. It is said to contain from three to four thousand

inhabitants, who are chiefly occupied in fishing; haddocks and lobsters

are very abundant in its immediate neighbourhood, which are taken in

great numbers to the Hamburgh as well as the London markets. The island

is said to be nearly a mile in length, and about half a mile in breadth,

and now belongs to the British government. At twenty minutes past twelve

o'clock we entered the Elbe, where two light ships are stationed, in

consequence of the sandbanks, which are rather dangerous in that part of

the passage.

The island of Newark-Farm is distant only from three to four miles from

the mouth of the Elbe; the houses and cattle were now pleasing objects

in view. About three o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at Cuxhaven,

which is a small sea-port town, and is in the territory belonging to the

town of Hamburgh. It is a very fashionable bathing spot: and a large

concourse of ladies and gentlemen assembled at the haven when the steam

packet neared the shore. About four o'clock we experienced some heavy

drops of rain, with very loud claps of thunder, and towards evening

numerous broad flashes of lightning, very vivid, which appeared to skirt

along near the ground. On passing along the Elbe, we found it much

crowded with numerous sailing vessels, making the best of their way to

and from Hamburgh. These, with a variety of handsome church-spires

peeping out amongst various clumps of trees on both sides of the river,

gave the scenery a pleasing and picturesque appearance. We have also

here at the same time in view a part of the king of Denmark's dominions,

as well as a portion of the Hanoverian territories.

August 22nd. Arrived in the harbour at Hamburgh at half-past twelve

o'clock in the morning; but by the time we got out our luggage, and

boats to take us ashore, it was getting close on to eight o'clock.

Shortly after my arrival I proceeded to Flottbeck, to see the nursery

gardens of Mr. Booth, which are situated close by the banks of the Elbe,

about four English miles from Hamburgh. In this nursery I was much

gratified by the extensive collection of plants; there are about one

hundred acres of ground under nursery stock, consisting principally of

ornamental trees and shrubs, including a great variety of new species,

that I had not previously seen in any of our British nurseries. Mr.

Booth is a most enthusiastic practical botanist, and spares no expence

for the introduction of new and rare plants to his collection. He has

arranged along the edges of a walk which is nearly a mile in length a

collection of hardy trees and shrubs, which are so planted that the

different species of each genus are brought at once under view for

comparison. The whole are arranged according to the _Natural System_ of

_Jussieu_. The herbaceous ground contains above four thousand species

of hardy perennial plants: there are also above twelve hundred

different varieties of roses. The hothouses allotted for the growth of

exotics and Cape plants are about five hundred feet in length, with a

range of pits nearly four hundred feet long for the low and half-hardy

species. The collection of _Cacteæ_ here amounts to nearly four hundred

different species; amongst them are many curious and interesting sorts.

There are also some fine specimens of palms, and numerous fine exotics;

the collection of Cape and New Holland plants is likewise very

extensive. The passion for _Orchideæ_ has also extended to this part of

Germany; Mr. Booth has a great variety of this tribe of plants, and is

building a house solely for their cultivation: he is likewise

constructing pits, for the growth of the pine-apple. He has a very fine

collection of the _Genus Pinus_, and shewed me several new species that

he had raised from seeds, which were considered to be new and

undescribed sorts. I saw a species much resembling our _Pinus

palustris_, with fine long foliage. Mr. Booth calls it the palustris

_excelsa_, and informs me that it grows to a great height, and is

perfectly hardy, having stood this winter ten degrees of frost, Reaumur,

which is equal to twenty three Fahrenheit, without sustaining the least

injury, although quite exposed.

I could not but admire the neatness in which the plants and grounds in

this extensive establishment were kept, and notwithstanding the extreme

dryness of the weather, (not having had any rain for nine weeks in that

part of the country,) the plants were looking all in a healthy and

flourishing state; but the watering of such a collection for so many

weeks must have been attended with an enormous expence.

August 23rd. Being accompanied by Mr. Booth, we proceeded along the

banks of the Elbe to the villa of M. de la Camp, which is situated close

by the road, commanding a most beautiful view of the Elbe and its

shipping, as well as Finkenwarder, an island on the opposite side of the

Elbe, the one half of which belongs to Hanover, and the other half to

Hamburgh. This island produces a very hardy species of oak, which was

found there some years ago, and is called the _Quercus Falkenbergense_.

M. de la Camp has formed a very complete vineyard on the banks of the

Elbe, which was in a very prolific state, as were also the vines that

formed an arbour to the front of this gentleman's house.

From this we next proceeded some miles further along the Elbe banks, to

the seat of Mr. Baur at Blankanese. This gentleman is a wealthy

merchant, and has expended an immense sum of money in the formation of

his grounds, according to the English system of gardening. He has formed

numerous walks and artificial banks, that command extensive views of the

Elbe. These walks and banks, were staked out by Mr. Baur personally,

who, I have no hesitation in saying, has displayed a very superior

taste; they are remarkably well executed: in short, the banks and

valleys appeared as if they had been formed by nature, but they are

principally the work of art. I however regretted not to find a

corresponding taste for good plants, to keep pace with the other

extensive ground improvements that this gentleman has completed and is

proceeding with.

Close by the Elbe are situated several small forcing houses for fruits,

a greenhouse, orangery, and some low pits for the cultivation of the

pine-apple, which has been grown here for several years; but they do not

seem yet to have made much progress in the cultivation of this fruit. In

front of these houses there is a terrace-wall, that separates the

garden-ground from the Elbe, which washes up against it. The stones with

which this wall was built were brought a distance of from four to five

hundred miles (from Saxony) for this purpose; and it is executed in a

very superior manner. On the highest part of the grounds there has been

lately erected a handsome Chinese pagoda, which commands a beautiful

prospect of the Elbe and its shipping, as well as the opposite island

and Hanoverian dominions. A round tower also been lately built, which

forms a pretty object in these grounds; several other objects of

interest are also to be seen dispersed in various parts, which are

considered superior to any other gardens in the neighbourhood of

Hamburgh, and are consequently much frequented every Sunday by

visitors, as on that day it is open to the public. We were obliged to

take our departure from them much sooner than I could have wished, owing

to a very heavy shower of rain which continued for a considerable time;

and it being the only rain of any consequence that had fallen in the

course of nine weeks, it was very agreeable to that part of the country.

Mr. Baur has recently built in these grounds a very handsome house,

according to the English style of building, but it is not yet inhabited.

It was impossible not to admire the very superior and substantial manner

in which the works are all executed in this gentleman's establishment.

On my return from this place to Flottbeck, I then proceeded back to

Hamburgh: when on my way I was much surprised to observe bricklayers in

some places busy at work, although Sunday. Towards the evening, the rain

had quite abated; I then made the best of my way for the Botanic

Gardens, which are situated in the suburbs of the town, on a part of the

ground which, during the reign of Buonaparte, formed a strong

fortification, but these have recently been demolished: they are now

laid out as a public promenade for the inhabitants of the town, and

likewise a Botanical establishment for the cultivation of plants, and

from its beautiful situation, it is certainly one of the best chosen

sites for this purpose that has come under my observation. It appeared

to be of considerable extent, and irregular form, sloping in part of

it, down to the old rampart ditch, which now forms a handsome piece of

water, bounding the garden, and separating it from the promenade on the

opposite side, which being laid out as a pleasure ground, with clumps of

trees and shrubs on the grass, when viewed from the Botanic Garden,

gives a stranger the idea that it is a part of the Botanical

establishment, giving the latter a much more extensive appearance than

it actually possesses. The extent of hothouses for the growth of exotic

and Cape plants, is rather limited, and did not seem to be more than

about two hundred and fifty feet in length. I here observed some very

fine specimens of _Cacteæ_, and likewise several rare species of

_Palms_, such as the _Zamia_, _Frideriis_, _Guilielmi_, _Ætensteinii_,

_Lehmanii_, _Caffra_, and _Horrida_. I also was much delighted by seeing

in flower, a very pretty plant, called the _Olendorfia procumbens_,

which I believe has not yet made its appearance in England. A great

portion of the ground in this establishment is occupied by trees and

shrubs, which are cultivated for sale, for the support of the garden,

consequently much ground is taken up by these, which ought to be

assigned to single specimens. In the herbaceous ground, there is also an

extensive collection of hardy perennial plants.

August 24th. Went at five o'clock in the morning, to see the fruit and

vegetable market, which seemed to be well supplied with fruit and

culinary vegetables. I observed large quantities of the new Orleans

plum, summer Bergamot pear, and the black cherries, which appeared to

be larger than the same sort (Hertford blacks,) grown in this country.

The _Haricot bean_, is also in great repute in Germany, and certainly

deserves to be more extensively cultivated in this country, than it

hitherto has been, as it forms an excellent substitute for the _French

bean_ or the _scarlet runner_, which is cultivated here in preference.

After seeing the fruit and vegetable market, I next proceeded to view

the promenade which surrounds the greater part of the town, and adds

greatly to the comfort of the inhabitants, as well as to the beauty and

scenery of the immediate vicinity of Hamburgh. This promenade is laid

out very tastefully with numerous clumps of trees and shrubs, various

capacious walks leading to different points of view, and objects around

the town, sloping towards the old rampart ditch, which is now formed

into a handsome irregular piece of water, which enlivens the scenery,

and gives the promenade an appearance equal to any pleasure ground in

this country. The side facing the town of Altona, is really beautiful;

the space of ground leading from the Hamburgh gate, at the Altona side

of the town, is very picturesque, especially as we approach towards the

Harbour or Docks, whither we are guided by a broad walk, leading to a

high projection, or point of view, where we have a delightful prospect

of the shipping on the Elbe, with its surrounding scenery for several

miles in extent. The formation of this promenade was commenced about

sixteen years ago, is now annually progressing, and advancing towards

completion, under the superintendance of Mr. Altuman, who has displayed

great taste, in his arrangement of the walks, clumps of trees, and

shrubs, as well as the formation of the water. The _Alster Lake_, is

situated at the north side of the town, extending about twelve miles in

that direction, and adds considerably to the beauty of the scenery in

that neighbourhood. It also contributes greatly to the convenience of

the town, as numerous boats, with various commodities, are brought to

Hamburgh on its surface. The promenades leading to the town of Altona,

are also deserving of notice; long avenues intersecting each other are

here formed, by double rows of the Lime, Elm, and Poplar trees, with

large spaces of grass lawn, intervening betwixt them. After making a

tour round the promenade, I next proceeded to view the principal parts

of the town, and its churches, which are very splendidly fitted up. The

streets of Hamburgh are narrow and paved with round stones, which are

not very agreeable to those unaccustomed to walk upon them; the most

fashionable part of the town is the side next the Alster Lake, which is

much frequented in the evenings.

After getting my passport examined and signed, and securing a place in

the diligence for Berlin, I next accompanied Mr. Booth the seedsman,

(brother to the nursery man,) in a drive round the outskirts of the

town, where there are some pretty villas, and also various tea gardens,

which, although a week day, appeared to be well attended. I was rather

surprised to find at 5 o'clock in the afternoon, a large concourse of

ladies and gentlemen assembled in front of a small theatrical

performance, which it appeared was the daily practice in that part of

the country, the ladies being occupied sewing and knitting, and others

drinking coffee. The town of Hamburgh is said to contain above a hundred

thousand inhabitants, and they certainly appeared to me to be in a very

flourishing state. In short the general appearance and respectability of

the inhabitants, that prevailed throughout the town and its vicinity was

very striking. At eight o'clock in the evening, I took my departure from

Hamburgh, by the _Schnell-post_, (diligence) for Berlin, which was

accomplished in one day and two nights travelling; here I had a good

specimen of diligence _expedition_, especially for the first eight

hours, being placed in one of the bye chaises, which is only calculated

to hold four passengers, and is of much less dimensions than the main

diligence, and much lighter; I fully expected every moment to be upset,

as a great part of this road between Hamburgh and Boisenburgh, is full

of large deep ruts that kept us completely on the rock for many miles,

but after we passed the latter town, we then had an excellent road, yet

the speed of our crawling conveyance was but very little increased. The

roads throughout all the Prussian territories that I have travelled on,

appeared to be in excellent repair.

August 25th. Arrived at a small town called _Ludwigslust_, about one

o'clock, where we dined, and stopped nearly an hour, which enabled me to

make a hasty visit to the grounds, attached to the beautiful palace of

the grand Duke of Mecklenburgh, who generally resides here. In front of

the palace are pretty jets of water, but the most imposing sight, is a

fine avenue of limes, that leads from a large piece of lawn adjoining

the palace; the avenue appeared to be nearly a mile in length, and had

several walks branching from the right and left, through a shrubbery, or

rather plantation, where there were also several small pieces of water.

Close to the palace is an old orangery, with some good trees standing in

front of it. At a short distance, and nearly opposite to the palace, is

a handsome building, called the "Augusta Villa," with an extensive piece

of pleasure ground, laid out after the English mode of gardening, with

numerous clumps of trees, and shrubs dispersed on the lawn; the walks

and grounds appeared to be in very good order, but I was unable to

examine the extent of the collection of plants that it contained. In the

vicinity of Ludwigslust, there were several orchards, and large pieces

of ground under vegetable culture. The country from this town as far as

Warnow, was rather more varied than that we previously passed, but the

soil appeared light and sandy, and Scotch firs, the only trees observed

in the plantations in view. At Warnow our luggage was examined by the

police, and our passports demanded, and detained until we arrived in the

town of Perlebergh, when they were again examined, and then returned to

us.

August 26th. Arrived at half past three, A. M. at Nauen, a small town

about twenty five English miles from Berlin; this place appeared

conspicuous, from the number of small flour mills, situated in the river

Havel, which passes close to the town. About 6 o'clock in the morning,

we had reached to a small town, called Spandau, which is said to contain

about 5000 inhabitants, and appeared to be strongly fortified: it is

only ten miles distant from Berlin, where we happily arrived at about 8

o'clock in the morning. As we approached the city, the country looked

more cheerful, and in a better state of cultivation, the soil also was

of a more fertile quality, and trees and plantations more numerous. I

was very much pleased by observing growing by the road side, several

species of Alpine plants which are not easily to be met with in this

country, in an indigenous state. The _Gentiana Pneumonanthe_, appeared

in great abundance, and with its brilliant blue flowers was to me

pleasingly conspicuous; but the diligence, although slow, was yet too

fast to allow me time to procure a few specimens. On passing the

magnificent palace of Charlottenburg, I was much struck with its

extensive appearance, and fine park, leading from it all the way to

Berlin, through the Brandenburg gate, and along the Linden or lime tree

walk, to the splendid university, armoury, museum, and other large

buildings, and handsome bridges, with the statues placed on them, its

magnificent palaces, which all appear in view from the diligence, by

this the Hamburgh line of road, and to the eye of a stranger has a grand

effect, giving him the idea of a great and noble city, by seeing so many

magnificent buildings immediately as he enters the town. Within a few

stages of Berlin I met with Mr. Parker, Bookseller, from Oxford,

travelling in the main Diligence, where I joined him; on our arrival in

the city, we took up our abode, in the St. Petersburgh hotel, after

breakfast we separated, he in search of books, while I went to visit the

Royal Botanic Gardens at Schoenburgh, which are situated about three

English miles from Berlin, where I was much gratified by the many fine

specimens of plants that I saw. Having letters of introduction to M.

Otto, from Sir W. Hooker and Dr. Lindley, as well as from his old friend

Mr. Hunneman, I experienced the greatest attention from him, he took

great pains in pointing out to me the various new and curious plants in

this extensive collection. There were some very fine species of _Palms_,

in great beauty, nearly reaching to the top of the hothouse, which is

about thirty feet in height. The _Latania borbonica_, was particularly

fine, and had attained nearly twenty five feet in height, its foliage or

fronds extending from ten to twelve feet on each side from its stem.

The _Gomutus saccharifer_, had also reached to the height of twenty five

feet, and numerous other choice specimens of the Palmæ, were in an

equally healthy and luxuriant state, and of little less dimensions than

those specified. The _Aristolochia brasiliensis_ was particularly fine,

covered with long beautiful speckled flowers, that extended over a large

part of the rafters. Many new and fine specimens of the _Gesneras_ were

also in flower; they appeared different from any that I had previously

seen in this country. Some of the _Melaleucas_; in the conservatory had

grown to the height of nearly forty feet; the _Magnolia grandiflora_,

which requires the protection of the conservatory during the winter

months was now covered with fine large flowers. Numerous other species

of New Holland plants, had grown to an amazing height in the

conservatory.

The hothouses in this garden are placed in several separate ranges, and

are very substantially built in comparison to our erections in England.

The quantity of timber employed in the rafters is immense, but giving

them a very heavy appearance; yet I have rarely met with a more healthy

collection of plants anywhere; they may be considered the most extensive

on the continent of Europe. In short, I never before saw so many plants

cultivated in pots. The numerous species of New Holland and Cape

_genera_ were quite astonishing, as well as the hardy and Alpine

species. As to the Cacteæ, there can be no hesitation in saying that

the collection in these gardens of this curious tribe of plants really

comprises the most beautifully grown specimens that I have ever seen;

the different species that have grown to a considerable size have a very

interesting appearance, particularly the _Mammillaria_ and

_Echinocactus_ tribes; with their numerous spines and angles, they form

a pleasing object either in or out of flower. M. Otto has long been

celebrated for his ardent love to this curious tribe of plants, and he

certainly has succeeded in forming a valuable collection. The species of

_Ferns_ in these gardens are likewise very numerous, and there are many

very fine specimens amongst them, which have grown to a great size. I

could not but admire the very tasteful manner in which the Cape and New

Holland plants were arranged out of doors in the summer months, and

which were neatly plunged to the rims of the pots, to prevent them from

being blown about by the wind. The _Bignonia radicans_ formed a very

prominent object against the end wall of one of the hothouses; the

luxuriance and brilliancy of its flowers far surpassed any that I had

previously seen. A fine specimen of the _Laurus indica_, which must have

been fully twenty feet in height, was standing out of doors, and obliged

to be cut down, as it was getting too high for the house in which it

stood in the winter season. The _Robinia Pseudacacia_, _inermis_ and

_tortuosa_ were both splendid trees, which ornamented the grass lawn.

The _Magnolia acuminata_, also a beautiful specimen, as well as the

_Quercus palustris_, and _rubra_; both had attained a great size, and

were handsome trees, as well as several other species of this genus. Mr.

Otto having kindly requested Mr. W. Brackenridge, who had been for some

time from Scotland, residing in the neighbourhood of Berlin, and was

then employed in the Botanic gardens, to accompany me the following day

to such places as he considered most deserving of notice, I arranged

with him to be ready betwixt six and seven o'clock in the morning, to

proceed to the different gardens.

August 27th. We started at seven o'clock in the morning, to the royal

gardens at Charlottenburg palace, which are situated about four English

miles from Berlin. The grounds attached to this royal palace, are said

to contain four hundred English acres, laid out with various walks,

clumps of trees and shrubs, as well as several pieces of water,

embracing some very fine views from different points notwithstanding its

being a flat surface, but it is much diversified by trees, bridges, and

sheets of water that intersect the lawn. There are several bridges

leading across the stream to the most ornamental and picturesque parts.

The palace is also seen to great advantage from several points in the

grounds. A very fine specimen of the _Quercus palustris_ was in great

beauty on the grass. I also saw some very large trees of the _Populus

alba_, which were considerably larger than any tree of this species

that I had previously seen. M. Fintelman, the superintendant of the

royal gardens, pointed out to us a very complete _Fructiferum_, that he

had lately formed in these grounds, comprising a collection of all the

hardy fruits. Nearly adjoining to the palace, is a very handsome little

flower garden, lately executed for the growth of the dwarf flowering

perennials and annuals. I was much pleased by an arbour formed with the

different species of Cape and New Holland plants, that are rather

flexible in their growth; the pots in which the plants grew, were all

plunged round the back, the branches tied closely to it and thickly

covered, producing a great variety of foliage, and pleasing effect, and

having the appearance of growing there permanently throughout the

season. Opposite to this Botany Bay, or Cape Arbour, is a pretty summer

house, which is chiefly composed of reeds. In the centre of the flower

garden, there are various posts with iron rods extended from them for

the training of creepers. Again, at the extremity, is an artificial

grass bank, considerably elevated above the flower beds, planted with

the dwarf china rose, which has a very good and natural effect. The

orange-house is an oblong building, of great length, with opaque roof

and backwall, upright lights only in the front, completely covered with

grape vines, having a very fine crop of fruit all over them. The orange

trees were all in excellent health, some of them bearing separately

nearly two hundred fruit; there are about three hundred of these trees

cultivated here. I also saw a fine variety of Dahlias, and various

other beautiful flowering plants in great perfection; these Dahlias are

fully as good as any I had seen in England; great attention is paid to

these flowers by M. Fintelman, who took great delight in pointing out

the various objects most worthy of notice in these grounds. Having

devoted several hours to the inspection of this extensive establishment,

we then took our leave of M. F. and proceeded back to Berlin, when I had

another opportunity of observing more fully the various improvements,

that are now going forward in the Thier-garten, or park, which extends

from the royal palace of Charlottenburg, to the Brandenburg gate. This

park is considered one of the finest in Europe, and is now undergoing

extensive alterations, the grounds forming in several places so as to

harmonize with the English style of landscape gardening; numerous walk

and rides leading in various directions, with groups of sculpture, make

this an interesting promenade for the public, by whom it is much

thronged, particularly in the evenings. It is approached from Berlin by

the Brandenburg gate, which cannot fail to attract the stranger's

notice. It has a most magnificent appearance; on the top of this gate

stand the celebrated bronze horses, removed by Buonaparte to Paris, but

were again replaced by the Prussians in their original site. In front of

the Royal Museum, is a very handsome marble vase, which measures about

sixty four feet in circumference, and four feet in depth; a handsome

fountain is also playing, throwing the water to a great height. The

ground floor of the museum is occupied as a sculpture gallery, which

contains numerous statues, and busts; but it appeared to me to be

deficient of the finer groups. I was however much pleased with the

beautiful imitation marble columns of various colours, which have a

polish equal to the original. The picture gallery is above that devoted

to the sculpture, and I could not but admire the beautiful state of

preservation of the paintings, and their very admirable arrangement.

From hence we proceeded to the nursery grounds of M. Bouschie, which are

not of much extent, nor yet is there much for the Horticulturist to

admire, except some very fine specimens of the _Cacteæ_ (_Opuntia_)

tribe; some of the species are from eight to ten feet in height. After

visiting this nursery, we then proceeded to the forcing gardens of M.

Bouschie, who grows a large quantity of pine apples and peaches for the

Berlin market; the pine apples were very small, and much inferior to our

English grown fruit; the crop of peaches was very abundant, but not of a

large size, the trees old, and the hothouses of a very inferior

description. We next proceeded to the nursery garden of M. Touissaint,

which appeared to contain a much better collection of the Cape and New

Holland plants, than any of the other nurseries I had previously seen in

Berlin. Here was a good collection of the more hardy species of

_Rhododendrons_; the forcing of flowers is likewise extensively

practised in this establishment, and the grounds in very good order. I

next visited the nursery ground of M. Mathieu, where there were some

good specimens, but none that I had not previously met with.

August 28th. Went at six o'clock in the morning to see the fruit and

vegetable market, but was rather disappointed in observing so very

inferior a supply in comparison with what is to be seen in Covent Garden

Market. In fact for some time I thought that I had gone to the wrong

place, as the market is held every alternate day in two different parts

of the town; but on enquiry I found it was seldom better supplied. Large

quantities of grapes grown out of doors, or on trellis, were in the

market; also a pretty good supply of peaches, but these were of a small

size. I only observed one solitary pine apple, about one pound weight.

The mode of preserving the fish, which were also brought to the market

where the fruit and vegetables were exposed for sale, was new to me.

They are kept alive in water in oval shaped wooden tubs or vessels, and

each sort is kept separate. Large quantities of game, poultry, butcher's

meat, as well as cart-loads of hay and straw, are found abundantly in

the market.

After making a tour through the principal parts of the town, and getting

my passport signed by the police and English ambassador, I made a second

visit to Mr. Otto, and also then called on Dr. Kloytch, to whom I had a

letter of introduction from Sir W. Hooker. Dr. Kloytch has the charge of

the Royal Herbarium, which is situated opposite and nearly adjoining the

Botanic Gardens, containing several apartments for dried specimens of

all the plants that flower in the Royal Botanic Gardens, which are

gathered and preserved as they appear in flower. Attached to the Royal

Herbarium house is a piece of pleasure ground, one side of which is

enclosed by a good brick wall that has projecting piers, betwixt which

grape vines are trained, and confined to the spaces of about twelve feet

between the projecting piers; each sort is thus prevented from

intermixing with another; a wooden pailing enclosing another part of

this garden is likewise adapted to the same purpose. Dr. Kloytch was

once a pupil of Sir W. Hooker's at Glasgow, and is considered an eminent

botanist, he has certainly formed a very natural arrangement of the

different species in the genus _Ericæ_, arranged according to the form

and structure of the flower. He shewed me several native specimens of

this genus that I have not yet seen in England, but seeds of which I

hope to receive from him before long. I was much gratified by the

excellent method he described to me, in preserving the specimens of

_Fungi_, which appears to be the most effectual mode of drying these

plants that I have yet seen. After looking over various specimens in the

Herbarium, Dr. Kloytch accompanied me to the Botanic Gardens, where I

again saw Mr. Otto, and was enabled to see more minutely the extent of

this noble collection of plants. It is proper to observe that the space

of ground allotted for this garden, is not sufficiently large for such

an extensive collection of plants. Many of the oaks and several other

fine trees are too much crowded, and not seen to advantage. After

examining all that I wished to see here, Mr. Otto, Dr. Kloytch, and Mr.

Brackenridge, accompanied me into Berlin, where we passed through

another fine part of the "_Thiergarten_," and being joined by Mr.

Cuming, the celebrated Zoologist, we spent a very pleasing evening in

the discussion of botanical pursuits, and the cultivation and beauty of

the _Cacteæ_ in the Berlin Gardens.

August 29th. Left Berlin at seven o'clock in the morning for Potsdam,

where I arrived at eleven o'clock in the forenoon, a distance of

eighteen English miles. Every stranger must be forcibly struck with the

scenery as he approaches Potsdam, particularly in passing Prince

Charles's villa and grounds, with the view of the handsome bridge lately

erected across the river Havel, at this side of the town expanding

itself to a very capacious sheet of water. On my arrival at Potsdam I

proceeded to the Royal Gardens at _Sans-souci_, which are situated about

one English mile distant. Having a letter of introduction from M. Otto

to M. Linne, the principal director, I was disappointed in not finding

him at home. Free access was afforded to the various departments, and I

then made the best use of my time in examining the different gardens

attached to this residence, which required considerable diligence to

get through a portion of the departments. I first inspected the kitchen

garden, which is very extensive, and contains several ranges of low

houses, and pits, for the forcing of cherries, plums, and apricots, with

a good collection of standard fruit trees, as well as the walls being

well stocked. The length and breadth of the principal range of houses in

this garden, is 255 feet long, and about 9 feet in width; the upright

sashes are eight feet high, placed in a slanting position; the

roof-lights were about six feet long, but these lights were at this time

all removed from the house, the trees being planted as standards in the

interior border; the sashes are removed as soon as the fruit is

gathered, in order to expose the trees to the full effect of the

atmosphere. In another garden at a short distance from this vegetable

one, there are numerous other ranges of hothouses for the forcing of

fruits, which are in great request for the royal table. The structures

here used for this purpose are about six feet high in front, and about

ten feet in width; the length of the roof sashes were from nine to ten

feet. In these houses the flues are placed at the back, running parallel

to the backwall. Some of the houses are heated by hot-water pipes,

rather of a novel construction, and I much fear not calculated to give

any great command of heat; they consist of two round copper pipes, about

two inches only in diameter, which run parallel along the front of the

house about two feet apart from each other. The peach trees are planted

inside the house, within one foot of the front wall, and are trained

perpendicular to the trellis, to the height of six feet, being as high

as the upright glass. A rider is then carried in general, close under

the roof lights, trained to a lath trellis which is nailed to the

underside of the rafter.

As soon as the frosty nights are over, the houses are generally stripped

of the sashes, and the trees and fruit left fully exposed to the sun and

weather, while the fruit is maturing; but such fruits as are wanted at

an early period, are of course not thus exposed. I here observed various

trees of plum, cherry, and apricot, thus treated, a more congenial mode

of treatment, than by having recourse to pots or tubs, as is in general

practised in this country, especially where there can be houses spared

for this purpose, as the trees will get established in the ground, and

be enabled to produce a more abundant crop and larger fruit than if

their roots were confined to a small space for nourishment. I also saw

here a great quantity of very fine melons, all trained over moss, and at

this season these also were exposed to the weather. The appearance of

the fine terraces in front of Sans-souci Palace, gave me more

gratification than anything of the kind that I had previously seen. This

palace, originally erected by _Frederic the Great_, is now a favourite

summer residence of the Crown Prince. It is situated so as to command a

most beautiful view of the surrounding country, with six tier of

terraces in front of it, each terrace falling about twelve feet under

another towards the south from the palace. Along the top are flower

borders and broad gravel walks, with a row of very fine orange trees

placed along the edge of the gravel walk on each of the terraces, which

give them a magnificent appearance. Against these walls are trained

principally grape vines, provided with a frame in front for covering

them with glass; peaches and apricots are likewise here grown.

In the centre of each terrace is a noble flight of steps thirty-six feet

wide at the bottom, but at the top the width is only fifteen feet;

containing in each from twenty-five to twenty-seven steps. The view of

these from the avenue or road by M. Lennie's house, is really grand: the

different flights of steps from this point of view appear to form one

connected tier leading to the palace, which, with its magnificent orange

trees and groups of sculpture, strike the eye of every stranger with

admiration. I here congratulated myself on being alone, and left to

examine and take the dimensions of the various objects, without being

hurried. At a short distance from the lower terrace is an oval basin of

water, surrounded by a grass lawn and a gravel walk, or rather carriage

drive; and on the exterior side of the circular sweep of the gravel, are

placed twelve large statues. This basin was originally intended for a

fountain; the reservoir for supplying it was formed by Frederic the

Great on an eminence on the north side of Sans-Souci palace, where it

must be several hundred feet above the level of the basin of water where

the fountain was intended to be placed. The effect from the palace

windows and from several other points of view, if it had been completed,

would have been very magnificent when the water was playing. At a short

distance from the palace is another large building, which was occupied

by a part of the establishment; in front is a large piece of pleasure

ground, in which are placed also a number of very fine orange trees; one

of them, pointed out to me, is named after _Frederic the Great_, his

majesty being a great admirer of these trees, insomuch, that during the

war he took possession of all the best that came in his way, and sent

them to his royal gardens at Potsdam. The head of this tree, named

Frederic the Great, was equal to one of our ordinary sized Portugal

laurels, its branches extend over seventeen yards of ground in diameter.

I should imagine there must be fully 400 trees grown in this

establishment, all of large dimensions. The soil in which they are grown

consists of a black sandy loam, well incorporated with cow-dung and

rotten leaf mould, with a mixture of bone dust, in some cases horn

shavings. The houses for the protection of the orange trees in the

winter season, are simply a long range or ranges of red tiled roofed

buildings, with merely upright lights in the front or south side, which

are provided with wooden shutters that are closed during frosty weather.

The flues run along in the floor of the house, and are not calculated

to give out much heat, but the roof and back wall being opaque, and the

front furnished with shutters, little heat is required for preserving

the trees from the frost. They are generally turned out of doors in the

month of May, and not taken in again until October. Arranged along with

the orange trees I observed a very fine specimen of the _Nerium

Oleander_, covered with blossom, also several fine plants of the

pomegranate, covered with flowers. The figs were also in prolific state

against a wall and growing in light sandy loam. At the opposite end of

the palace is situated the picture gallery, which opens into another

garden department, with hornbeam hedges, and numerous box edging

scrolls; but this piece of ground is evidently not much attended to: the

walks, flowers, borders, are not in good order. The collection of

paintings, however, in the gallery will infinitely repay the visitor for

the disappointment he may experience in the badly kept garden. This

gallery is two hundred and fifty-two feet long, and thirty-six feet

wide; the dome and cove ceiling are richly gilt, the floor and walls

inlaid with marble. The paintings are very numerous, and in beautiful

preservation. Those taken from this gallery by Buonaparte and again

replaced in the spot they originally occupied, are particularly pointed

out to the visitor. I observed on each side of the door, as we entered

this gallery, two very fine marble statues, one of _Diana_, the other of

_Louis_ XVI. A straight avenue or drive leading from the Potsdam road,

in a direct line by the front of the terraces at Sans-souci, to the new

palace, is of considerable length. At the extremity of this avenue is

the magnificent palace built by _Frederic_, after the completion of the

wars in which he was engaged. It is said to have been erected with the

English subsidy; however this may be, it is undoubtedly a very

magnificent building.

The grounds leading from this and Sans-souci palace are all laid out as

pleasure-ground, with numerous walks and roads, leading in various

directions, which are very well kept; but the grass lawn here is rather

rough, and not much attended to. The quantity of sculpture placed

throughout these grounds is truly astonishing; at almost every

intersection of the walks, various statues or busts are placed, and

likewise in different recesses that are formed out of the road and walk

edges.

Along the front of the new palace, facing towards Potsdam, is arranged a

row of very fine orange trees, with several pieces of sculpture.

The garden ground extends considerably to the north of the palace, where

it is much varied, and commands an extensive view of the adjoining

scenery and country. The Belvidere and terraces here are also prominent

objects. I was much pleased with a piece of trellissing that surrounded

the oval spot of ground at the south side of the palace. This trellis

projects about twenty-one feet on one side, and forms an oblong square

about forty-two feet long. The side next the oval consists of eight

round columns, formed by thin flat iron bars, opposite to which are

openings to correspond, that look into a running stream of water, that

separates the park or pleasure ground from a piece of kitchen-garden

ground on the opposite side. The peculiarity of this trellissing is in

its handsome projecting cornice, with columns at nine feet apart, formed

by the flat iron bars. Arched recesses are likewise made between these

columns, about five feet wide, and nine feet in height. The entire

height of this trellis with the cornice is twelve feet, and was

evidently originally gilt, but it is now in a corroded and decaying

state; not a vestige of paint is even to be seen upon it.

At a very short distance from this splendid palace is a piece of

vegetable ground enclosed with formal clipt hornbeam hedges, which ought

to be removed, as it disfigures that part of the grounds, and is much

too close to the palace. The walks and lawn adjoining were in pretty

good order, especially the former.

Leading from the palace to a royal chateau that has been lately erected,

is a very fine carriage drive, winding through a flat piece of ground,

which is laid out principally after the English fashion. This residence

is also inhabited by one of the royal princes. I was much pleased with

the quantity of grapes growing on a double terrace, or rather covered

walk, which was completely crowded with vines and its fruits; the lower

walk ran alongside of a wall, and the trellis and arches projected

about twelve feet from it, and were twelve feet in height. Over the top

of this wall is another trellissed walk, which is also completely

covered with grapes; it leads up to the palace windows, and is about two

hundred feet in length. Adjoining it, and in front of the windows, is a

small flower-garden, elevated above the ground level I should imagine

about twelve feet: we ascend to it by a flight of steps at the furthest

end; the side next the palace is nearly on the same level as the window

sills. There are several fountains in it, and a few clumps of the

_Petunia violacea_, but nothing else of interest.

Connected with this terrace garden, but on the ground level, is a piece

of ground laid out in various beds, principally furnished with dahlias.

Here is a handsome marble fountain or column, and a well formed sheet of

water.

About three hundred yards from this spot is _Charlottenhoff_, a handsome

erection, which is used occasionally as a tea or coffee room. This

building is surrounded by numerous walks, and columns with vines trained

against them. Ascending a flight of steps, that leads to a point of view

looking down upon a fountain, playing with great force. This spot is

tastefully laid out, and in very neat order. Several other ornamental

erections are placed in these grounds, but to attempt to describe them

all would require an actual residence for some weeks. The royal palace

of Potsdam is a magnificent building, in the form of a quadrangle. The

interior apartments contain numerous objects of interest, which as being

highly estimated by _Frederic the Great_, are particularly pointed out

to the stranger. The arm chair which he was in the habit of using, is

still in a good state of preservation; I was much pleased with the

magnificence of the rooms; the paintings and furniture are very

splendid, and in good preservation. The ground attached to this palace

consists of a flat surface, extending towards the south, as far as the

river Havel, and is laid out in clumps of trees, various walks; the

space next the palace is a larger piece of gravel, which is daily used

for the exercise of the military. Adjoining it are numerous avenues of

horse chesnuts, and busts of ornamental sculpture placed along the first

row of trees, as well as some in various other positions. Opposite the

south, or principal front of the palace, is an oblong piece of water, in

the middle of which is placed a noble group of Neptune and his sea

horses, which has a very grand effect, but the water is kept rather low

and filthy, which might be easily remedied, as the river Havel passes

within a few yards of it. By the edge of the river, in a marshy spot of

ground, I observed a large quantity of the _Hydrocharis morsus-ranæ_

(Frogbite,) and _Stratiotes aloides_, (water soldier,) growing in great

abundance.

I should however have observed that the fine marble group of Neptune was

much injured by the French army, during the time they occupied Potsdam.

In short it is really grievous to see the depredations that were

committed by that army on the sculpture about Potsdam and Sans-souci,

whilst they resided there. The soldiers for amusement were in the habit

of firing musket balls at the different groups and statues.

August 30th. Left Potsdam at eight o'clock in the morning, for the

_Pfauen Insel_, or Peacock Island, where I had appointed to meet Mr.

Cuming at nine o'clock. We had to cross a branch of the river Havel to

get to the island, which contains a collection of plants and animals

somewhat resembling the Zoological Gardens in Regent's Park. I was here

more fortunate in finding M. Fintelman at home, than I was at

Sans-souci, and having a letter of introduction to him from his uncle,

who superintends the royal gardens at Charlottenburg, I found him

remarkably attentive, and an intelligent young man. I was here surprised

to find the _Robinia pseudacacia_ had attained seven feet in

circumference, at four feet from the ground, the branches of which

extend over thirty two yards of ground in diameter. I also observed some

fine specimens of the oak, which were little inferior to our largest

English oaks. The conservatory is an oblong building, about one hundred

and twenty feet by forty, and forty two feet high, and consists of

several tiers of front sashes, with a span roof, the north side being a

dead wall with a gallery for resting in behind it, which commands a

full view of the plants underneath.

I was much gratified, by the very flourishing state of the plants, and

their remarkable neatness. A very fine collection of the _Palmæ_, is

cultivated in this stove or conservatory, some of which have made a

rapid progress in their growth. The _Latania borbonica_ measured twenty

seven feet in height, spreading over a space of equal dimensions in

diameter. I understood that his majesty the king of Prussia frequently

breakfasts in the summer season in this conservatory, under the shade of

the palm fronds (or leaves). I remarked also the _Pandanus utilis_

twenty three feet high; the _Dracæna Draco_, (Dragon Tree) had likewise

grown thirty six feet high; _Pandanus sylvestris_ thirteen feet in

height, and eleven feet in diameter across its branches; the _Bambusa

arundinacea_, forty feet high; a shoot of this cane, grew seven feet six

inches in the course of three weeks; the _Corypha umbraculifera_, a very

magnificent specimen. The _Latania borbonica_ is placed in the centre of

the conservatory; the tub in which it grows is completely concealed by

planting around it various _ferns_, and other low growing plants, which

are tastefully arranged, and form a nice little stage round the tub,

having a very neat appearance, with the walk round it, which shews the

palm to the best advantage. Opposite to this spot is a recess in which

is placed a small fountain tastefully decorated by _ferns_ that succeed

well in a shady situation. There is likewise in this recess, a very

handsome marble screen, richly carved and ornamented. The grounds are

very judiciously laid out in various clumps of flowering shrubs and

summer flowers, and were at this time in full perfection. One of the

finest Hydrangeas that I have seen, was in full bloom, and its large

purple-blue flowers were very conspicuous. The grass lawn was in a much

better state than any other that I had previously seen in Germany, or

even met with during my tour on the continent, and the whole garden

ground very neatly kept. The island is said to contain about four

hundred English acres. The erections for the different animals and birds

are judiciously placed, and consist of handsome structures, arranged

from two to three hundred yards or more apart; these apartments were

kept remarkably clean and in good order. An extensive collection of

beasts and birds are preserved in this establishment. The grounds are

considerably varied, and some fine views are to be seen from several

parts of it, as well as from the top of some prospect towers. The effect

of the river Havel, and surrounding plantations at the opposite sides,

adds expressive features to this landscape.

After seeing the various objects most deserving of notice, both in the

botanical and zoological departments, we proceeded across the river, to

the grounds of Prince Charles, still accompanied by M. Fintelman; they

were laid out, principally, in the English style, his royal highness

being particularly partial to it.

This spot consists of a great variety of surface, with several beautiful

vistas, and is really very tastefully planted, and the grounds formed,

and kept in very excellent order. The public road from Berlin to Potsdam

passes close by the front of the grounds, and there is a low wall, with

an invisible wire fence on the top of it, betwixt the road, where the

views of the grounds are seen to most advantage. One side of them

extends close to the Havel, where a handsome summer house is erected,

which commands a fine prospect of Potsdam, the new bridge, and shipping,

and likewise the scenery on the opposite side of the river, which is

much varied. Under this building are two colonnades covered with

creepers, which have a very pretty effect.

On the one side of a hill nearly opposite to this villa, is a new

residence erecting for prince William; the views from it must be very

extensive, as it is situated on a commanding spot.

We next proceeded to the magnificent edifice called _Marmorpallast_, or

marble palace, which is situated at a very short distance from Potsdam,

and close to the margin of the Havel. It is a splendid building, the

greater part of which is constructed with marble. The cornice appeared

to be about five or six feet deep; it is of white marble, as also is the

base above the ground for several feet; the door and window jambs are

likewise of the same material. The intervening spaces of the walls are

built with red brick. The colonnade at the principal entrance consists

of handsome marble columns. The pleasure-ground and gardens attached to

it are said to contain two hundred and fifteen German acres of ground,

throughout which are dispersed various clumps of trees and shrubs, with

extensive walks and rides branching through it in different directions.

These grounds are very flat, and have but little variety or picturesque

appearance in them. The number of good exotics and New Holland plants is

considerable, as well as a very fine collection of healthy orange trees,

with some fine specimens of hardy trees growing singly on the grass. I

here observed the _Juglans fraxinifolia_ bearing a number of good sized

fruit. In the flower garden some good German stocks, then in full bloom.

The borders and grass lawn were in a rough state.

We next proceeded to Sans-souci, Mr. Cuming not having previously seen

it. I was delighted in having another opportunity of looking round this

truly magnificent spot; and being accompanied by Mr. Fintelman, who

kindly devoted the entire day in conducting us to the various objects

best worth our notice, we proceeded through the grounds attached to

Sans-souci palace, and then to Charlottenhoff, the new palace, &c., and

were much gratified by the numerous objects of interest we had pointed

out to us in the various places that we inspected.

On our return to Potsdam, we went to the top of Breuchensberg, or hill

of brewers, where a prospect tower is erected. The view from this spot

is really grand in the extreme; we look down upon Potsdam and the

numerous palaces that are in its environs. Sans-souci and the new palace

are both prominent objects in view from this prospect; but the most

pleasing features are the numerous small green islands that are formed

by the river Havel, near the bridge at Potsdam; the intricacy and

variety of outline of water, and the number of boats and small sailing

vessels making their way to Berlin through this place, form a pleasing

sight. The evening was now drawing to a close, and little more remained

to be seen by daylight. M. Fintelman took his departure for the Island

of Peacocks, and Mr. Cuming started in an hour after for Berlin. I was

thus again left alone to muse over the different objects that had

occupied my attention during the day.

August 31st. Not having previously seen the pine-apple forcing

department, I walked out early this morning to Sans-souci, where this

fruit is cultivated. I was rather surprised to find a great extent of

low houses and pits devoted to the growth of the pine, without observing

a single fruit amongst the whole stock that was scarcely worth cutting.

There cannot be less than one thousand feet in length of houses and pits

adapted to the pine-apple, and these varying from eight to twelve feet

in width. The principal range was heated by smoke flues, and the plants

plunged in saw-dust, with tan under; which practice is frequently

adopted in this country, especially when tan is scarce. The young plants

in the pits appeared pretty healthy, but such fruit as was fit for

cutting, or advancing to maturity, would bear no comparison to our

English produce.

After satisfying myself with what was to be seen in this department, I

returned to Potsdam, from whence the diligence to Dresden, my next place

of destination, did not start till twelve o'clock. The time I had to

spare before my conveyance came up, was employed in inspecting the town,

which consists, it is said, of 2000 houses, and 16,000 inhabitants. The

streets are in general very clean; one leading from the palace to

Sans-souci is inlaid with planks for the wheels of the different

vehicles to run on, similar to the Russian manner. I also saw in the

vicinity a Russian colony, which was inhabited by natives, sent as a

present some years ago by the Emperor to the king of Prussia; they are

now becoming pretty numerous, and their colony is extending.

Potsdam is intersected by various small canals, that lead from the

Havel, and are very convenient for the conveyance of turf and other

materials by water carriage. The greater number of the houses are

handsomely built; there was then erecting opposite to the palace a

magnificent church. At the other end of this palace is an iron bridge,

crossing the Havel; the piers consist of stonework, there are eight

arches, one of which is used as a drawbridge for the passing and

repassing of boats going this way to Berlin. This town is the principal

depot for military, who are exercised daily in great numbers in front of

the palace.

At twelve o'clock the diligence arrived, when I took my departure in it

for Dresden.

The road leading from Potsdam to the latter town was lined on each side

with fine poplar trees, of a considerable size, for several miles of the

journey. The soil in this part of the country appeared to be a light

sandy loam: the plantations were chiefly composed of the Scotch fir; but

close by the road side, in several places between Potsdam and Herzberg,

were large quantities of plum trees, loaded with fruit.

We arrived at Herzberg at half-past ten o'clock; but owing to the

darkness of the night I was unable to see, or form any opinion of the

size of the town or quality of the houses.

September 1st. At three o'clock in the morning we reached another small

town, called Elsterwerda, which was said to contain about 900

inhabitants. The next stage we came to was Grossenhayn, where we arrived

at half-past five o'clock, a.m. This town is situated in the kingdom of

Saxony, and contains nearly 5000 inhabitants. At this stage we were

transferred to another diligence.

The country from Grossenhayn to Dresden is much more varied than any I

had previously seen in Germany.

The scenery as we approach to Dresden is very picturesque, both as

regards distant views and variety of surface: when within a few miles of

the town, we meet with a very fine avenue of lime trees, extending for a

considerable distance, and then is continued by horse-chesnuts. On

descending a hill, a fine prospect of Dresden presents itself to the

eye. The soil now appears more of a black colour, and less free from

sand, than what I had previously observed. I also saw several beech

trees intermixed with the Scotch-fir.

Arrived at Dresden, at nine o'clock a.m. After getting breakfast, I

immediately proceeded to the house of Professor Hughes, who was then

engaged, but Mrs. Hughes asked Mr. West to accompany me to the principal

gardens; this gentleman, a school colleague of Lord Cosmo Russell, and

an admirer of plants, very cheerfully accompanied me to several of the

gardens in the vicinity of the town. We first proceeded to the Botanic

Garden, belonging to the University, which is very limited in extent. I

was however much pleased with the fine collection of Cacteæ that are

grown in this establishment, as well as a large collection of Cape, and

other green house plants. The number of species of hardy perennial

plants in this small space of ground is truly astonishing; there is also

a great variety of Cape bulbs and _Gramineæ_. The extent of glass is

confined to a very long conservatory, stove, and several pits for

_Cacteæ_.

Having been introduced by Mr. West to M. Lehman, the superintendant of

the garden, he accompanied us to the gardens of Lieut. Weber, situated

at a short distance from the town, and considered the most extensive for

glass and space, of any about _Dresden_. I should imagine by its

appearance there could not be above seven or eight English acres of

ground under nursery culture. The collection of plants for sale

comprises chiefly _Camellias_, young orange trees, Cape and new Holland

plants, many of the scarcer sorts of which I observed had been lately

introduced to that establishment, from Mr. Low's nursery at Clapton. A

fine specimen of the Uhria speciosa was in great vigour of health. A

great variety of dahlias, and dwarf China roses in full flower were in

these grounds.

I was much pleased by the simple mode of grafting the _Camellia_ and

orange trees, which appeared to be very successful, and is generally

practised by M. Liebig the gardener, which method is what we term in

this country crown grafting; by this mode the shoot or graft, after

insertion in the stock, is only tied neatly to the stock, with a bit of

worsted thread, and then sealed over as well as the top of the stock, by

a little bees-wax, (without clay as practised here); when this operation

is completed, the plants are put into a frame or pit, with a little

moist heat, until the graft and stock begin to coalesce, when they are

shortly afterwards gradually exposed to the air of the greenhouse. In

this establishment there are several very good hothouses for plants. In

one of the ranges is placed a circular shaped conservatory, heated by

hot water, on rather a novel construction; these hot water pipes being

formed into perpendicular columns, rising from the floor to the height

of from ten to twelve feet. These pipes, thus constructed, gave out a

great command of heat, and answered the original intention very

satisfactorily. The plants in this nursery garden were very well grown,

and all in a healthy state.

I next visited the nursery of M. Hofrath Kreyssig, which is only a short

distance from the Botanic garden. I saw likewise some good kinds of

greenhouse plants, as well as many rare species of the Rhododendron

tribe; the _Rhododendron campanulatum_, a fine specimen; a collection of

orchideous plants is also forming in this nursery garden. There are

several small hothouses for the growth of Cape and tropical plants,

which are also cultivated for sale; but the space of ground is much too

limited, as well as confined by houses to do justice to a collection of

hardy species. After visiting these gardens and grounds, I took my leave

of Mr. West, to whom I was much indebted for the kind interest he took

in the object I had in view, and who appears devotedly attached to

plants and gardening. Professor Hughes having recommended me to see the

chateau erected on the banks of the Elbe by the late Lord Findlater, an

English nobleman, I expected to have found some fine gardens, or

collection of plants, but, to my surprise, on my arrival, I found it

now occupied as a tea garden; it is much frequented by the inhabitants

of Dresden, in consequence of its romantic situation on the banks of the

Elbe, commanding a prospect of the country, studded with small villages

situated in the valleys between the hills, or rather eminences; but

these are not to be compared with our Scotch mountains. Along the Elbe

is a great extent of vineyard, which did not appear to be in a very

prolific state, the soil being of a poor sandy texture. Many pretty

villas were also situated along these banks, which had very pleasant

prospects from them.

September 2nd. Having agreed to meet Mr. Lehman early this morning, we

proceeded to the Catholic church, which belongs to the court, and is

certainly a magnificent building, the interior richly ornamented, and

well worth the stranger's notice; we next visited the Protestant church,

which is likewise a splendid erection. The museum and post office are

also very magnificent buildings. I was however surprised at the

appearance of the royal palace, which consists of a dark gloomy looking

old fashioned residence, and with little in its exterior appearance,

calculated to give a stranger the idea of its being the seat of royalty.

Through the assistance of Mr. Lehman, who procured tickets of admittance

to the gallery of paintings, I was favoured with a sight of this

celebrated collection, which is considered to be amongst the finest in

Europe, and is said to contain one thousand five hundred pictures; among

so many there are undoubtedly some very splendid ones. On our return

from the gallery, we passed through his majesty's coach-house, which

must at least have contained no less than sixty different carriages; a

very splendid one lately presented to the king by Prince Metternich, was

pointed out to us. From hence we proceeded to the museum or repository

of minerals, birds and animals. The collection of the feathered tribe in

this establishment is particularly extensive; some very large blocks of

petrified wood, that were much prized, were pointed out as remarkable

curiosities. In one of the departments was a table four feet in

diameter, of a solitary piece of wood of the _Tamarindus indicus_,

(tamarind tree.) In front of the building various orange trees are

arranged along the edge of the walks. What is called _Bruehl's_ garden

is also deserving of notice; it forms a public promenade for the

inhabitants, and is pleasantly situated, containing a picture gallery,

which is denominated the gallery of duplicates.

Dresden is said to contain about 80,000 inhabitants, and is much admired

for its fine houses and streets. It is considered by many as one of the

finest towns in Europe; but I must confess that in my opinion it is

inferior to either Berlin, Munich, or Brussels. It is situated on a flat

spot of ground with the river Elbe running through it; the bridge over

which is said to be 1450 feet long. The Arsenal is a large building, but

I had no time to see it, as the diligence left this day at twelve

o'clock for Munich, and as these conveyances only go twice or three

times a week at most from the principal towns throughout Germany, the

losing of an hour to see an object might detain one for two or three

days. Having taken my leave of Mr. Lehman, I seated myself in the

diligence for Munich, a journey which occupied us three days and three

nights. The road winds along the river side from Dresden to the first

stage on our way to Munich, and is very beautiful, the scenery much

diversified, and resembling that of some of our Scotch mountains; the

plantations of forest trees comprise a mixture of silver fir, beech and

Scotch-fir. The hill and dale that continued for a considerable way

along this line of road rendered the scenery very interesting and

picturesque, and which appeared so to continue until it became quite

dark, when all view of the country was lost.

We passed through Freyberg, a small town situated on the river Mulde,

and is said to be 1179 feet above the level of the sea. The next town or

village that we came to was Chimnitz, where we stopped for supper.

September 3rd. Arrived at one o'clock in the morning at Zwickau, at

which town the road from Leipsic joins the one from Dresden, where the

diligences from both towns meet, and the passengers are transferred from

the Leipsic diligence to the one from Dresden. Whilst waiting for the

vehicle getting ready to start, I was agreeably surprised to find Mr.

Parker, seated at the same inn; he had arrived from Leipsic by that

diligence: when we parted at Berlin we had no expectation of again

meeting each other so soon.

One of my fellow travellers from Dresden was a Frenchman, but he was

evidently as awkwardly situated whilst travelling for want of a

knowledge of the German language as I was myself; consequently we both

kept Mr. Parker pretty busy in acting as an intermediate interpreter

whilst we were together.

The scenery about Zwickau is beautifully varied with hill and dale, and

woods, with a small river called the Mulde running along by the bottom

of the rocks. The houses are neatly built, and of considerable number,

containing a population of from seven to eight thousand. The roads in

the vicinity of this town are rather mountainous, but not so much so as

in the preceding stages. The next small village that we passed through

was Plauen, where we arrived about seven o'clock in the morning: it is

said to contain about 700 inhabitants.

We next proceeded to Hof, where we arrived at ten o'clock, changed

diligences, and had to stop for several hours before we could again get

on our journey. On entering this town we passed by a large tea garden,

situated on the side of a hill, at the bottom of which is a small river,

that tends greatly to enliven the scenery. The town of Hof is in the

kingdom of Bavaria, and the population is said to amount to 6,000,

living in handsomely built houses. The main street that leads through it

I should imagine is nearly a mile in length, and very wide; there

appeared to be a fair in the town on this day, which occupied a great

part of this street.

The cathedral is an ancient building; the entrance consists of a

handsome Gothic door, the walls of which must be about eighteen feet in

thickness. The town-hall is likewise a fine erection, and the houses and

streets appeared all in clean and neat order.

From Dresden to Hof the country productions principally consist of

agricultural produce; the potatoe and oats are extensively cultivated. A

sharp frost this morning blackened all the potatoe tops.

At one o'clock we got into a Bavarian diligence, and proceeded to

Berneck, a small town surrounded with beautiful scenery, that much

reminded me of the Derbyshire rocks, to which in picturesque appearance

it was fully equal.

Arrived next at Bayreuth, at eight o'clock in the evening; it is a town

of considerable size, said to contain 10,000 inhabitants. On the

diligence driving up to the inn door we found the space in front of it

completely covered with a military band, and a large concourse of people

listening to their music; this band belonged to a cavalry regiment that

was on its march through the town. We next started for Nuremberg, where

we arrived at half-past eight o'clock the following morning.

September 4th. On our arrival at Nuremberg, we found that we had to

remain here for several hours before the diligence started again: we

made the best use of our time, proceeding to St. Laurence's Church, a

Gothic building, the doors and windows richly ornamented with groups of

sculpture and other carved work in bronze; the painted glass is very

handsomely executed. This church was begun in 1254 and is a most

magnificent building. The tabernacle consists of a beautifully carved

and richly ornamented spire, executed in 1496 of carved stonework.

Although it has been converted into a Protestant church, yet the

Catholic ornaments are still remaining. We next proceeded to view the

Catholic church, which is likewise a very splendid Gothic building,

erected in 1355, and the exterior walls richly ornamented. In the Market

place, we were much gratified with a very pretty spiral fountain, richly

carved, erected in 1356. The town-house is also a very fine old

structure, containing many good paintings in the large and small hall.

The fresco paintings in the latter apartment are beautifully executed on

the ceilings and walls, which are also highly ornamented by gilt

mouldings. The paintings in the great hall consist of various pieces of

fresco, by the celebrated Albert Durer. The triumphal car of the emperor

Maximilian, drawn by twelve horses, in beautiful fresco painting, and a

very fair picture of the present king of Bavaria, by Byng of Munich, is

also to be seen here.

From hence we went to the cathedral, in which is St. Sebald's Tomb,

highly deserving of the stranger's notice. This church contains the

oldest metal font in Germany; it was formerly used in baptising the

emperor's children. The saint's tomb, by Fisher, is a masterpiece of

workmanship, executed in 1508; there is also a curious figure of the

artist himself. The tomb is a pretty Gothic structure, cast in bronze,

and the body of the saint enclosed in a silver coffin, under an elegant

Gothic canopy. We next proceeded to the picture gallery, which contains

a good collection of paintings by German artists, in good preservation.

From hence we went to the imperial castle, where there is growing a Lime

tree, _Tilia europæa_, said to be seven hundred years old. I measured

the girth of this tree, at four feet from the ground, and found it to be

fifteen feet in circumference; it still appeared in a pretty healthy

state.

The dining room in this ancient castle, formerly used by the king, is of

large dimensions, and contains a large number of old paintings, which

are in good preservation; the rooms although uninhabited for the last

four hundred years are still in good condition. From the windows in this

castle we have a beautiful prospect of the town as well as of a

considerable extent of country. On our return from hence we visited the

house in which Albert Durer resided, which is now converted into a

gallery for modern paintings, exhibited for sale, many of which appeared

to be most beautiful pieces of art, and objects of great interest to

numerous visitors who were then present admiring them. By this time it

was drawing near the hour we had to start by the diligence. We made the

best of our way back to the hotel, and got all ready by one o'clock, the

appointed hour of our departure from Nuremberg, which is a town of

considerable size, containing a population of upwards of thirty thousand

people.

In the environs are large tracts of ground under vegetable culture, but

I was unable to learn of the existence of any botanic garden or good

nursery establishment in the immediate neighbourhood. Large fields of

tobacco were cultivated in the suburbs, as well as extensive plantations

of the _Hop_, which appeared very prolific. The soil we passed from

Nuremberg to Munich was more sandy than it previously had been; the

scenery is also more flat and less varied than in our preceding stages.

Sept. 5. Arrived at Pfaffenhofen, at six o'clock in the morning. Near to

this town large quantities of the _Genista germanica_, were growing

close by the road-side, also the _Dipsacus laciniatus_, in great

abundance. Approaching nearer to Munich, I observed growing in a

plantation the _Vaccinium Vitis Idæa_, in great plenty, reminding me,

from its occurrence, of the mountains of Scotland. The scenery in the

vicinity of Munich, is of a great sameness, but the Tyrolese mountains

appearing in the distance considerably add to its picturesque effect. We

reached Munich at eleven o'clock, where we found some difficulty in

getting apartments, the hotels being then so full of strangers.

In the afternoon I was accompanied by Mr. Parker to the Botanic garden,

which is situated close to the town, having a very handsome entrance

with Ionic columns, and neat iron railing, which encloses a large part

of this garden. The _Arboretum_ of trees and shrubs is confined to the

two ends of the garden, it being an oblong square, but the south side is

much the longest. The space of ground is very confined for the growth of

large trees; the entire space devoted for this purpose is not an acre of

ground, consequently the different sorts are much crowded together.

The interior of the garden, in front of the range of hot-houses, is laid

out in numerous oblong squares, with gravel walks intervening; in the

centre walk are three round basins of water. These squares are again

divided into beds for the herbaceous plants, wherein a good collection

are cultivated. In one of the divisions there is an _aquarium_ for

aquatic plants, which consists of oblong square troughs, lined with

brickwork for retaining the water; these are about two feet wide by two

deep, and an intervening space of ground, of from six to eight feet, in

which are grown such species as do not require the water: but a damp

situation, notwithstanding, is requisite: In the apartments where the

hardy perennial plants are cultivated, are numerous apple trees, all in

full bearing; these ought to be eradicated and their places supplied

with ornamental trees or shrubs. Apple-trees, however useful, are not in

character with a botanical collection; more especially as the apple is

so common by the road sides through Germany; a collection of this fruit

should find a place elsewhere than in the botanic garden, where the

space of ground is already much too limited for the collection of

plants. A lofty range of hothouses about five hundred feet in length,

has a very good effect; they are only furnished with upright sashes in

the front, the back and roof opaque, the latter finished in the

semi-cove form, and neatly plastered. I was surprised to find the Palms

looking remarkably healthy, notwithstanding these dark houses, many of

the species had really grown from twenty to twenty five feet in height.

The collection of the Brazilian species is very numerous, but many of

them appeared drawn and too much crowded for want of light and room in

the pits. The Cape and New Holland kinds were then out of doors, very

healthy and well grown. I was much pleased also with some very fine

specimens of _Cacteæ_, the variety of which is reckoned but little

inferior to that of Berlin. In short, there is an extensive assortment

of the various species of _Succulentæ_ in this establishment. The

director, M. Seitz, having been long a collector, has succeeded in

forming a great variety of this curious tribe; he was extremely liberal

in parting with any of his duplicates.

Sept. 6th. M. Seitz having the kindness to accompany us to the Royal

gardens at Nymphenburg, which are situated about four English miles from

Munich; we proceeded thither immediately after breakfast, and found that

these grounds required no little time to make even a hasty inspection.

The French garden in front of the palace consists of straight and broad

gravel walks, with long stripes of grass lawn, and borders about twelve

feet wide of shrubs running parallel to the avenues of horse-chesnut

trees. Along the edges of the walks various vases and other ornamental

sculpture are arranged; leading from these walks, a straight piece of

water, more in the form of a canal, than an ornamental lake, runs

parallel in two different directions; the one parallel to the palace, is

crossed by two wooden bridges, which are prominent features from several

points of view. The centre, or main canal, leads in a straight direction

for a considerable distance, and is broken by several very pretty

cascades, and handsome marble basins, as well as different groups or

figures of sculpture. The water comes rushing over the marble ledges

with great force, and was certainly the brightest and purest that I had

ever previously seen. There are also some very fine jets in which the

water is propelled to a great height by machinery. A well formed lake

nearly adjoins the bathing house, said to occupy about fifty Bavarian

acres of ground, the outline of which is much varied with different

projections of land, islands, and the banks of turf tastefully planted

with trees and shrubs, forms a very pleasing contrast. A curious bark

is placed on this sheet of water, consisting of two small boats, with a

platform, on which is placed a chair, so that a person may sit and read,

or fish, and at the same time guide this boat by his feet, that are

resting generally on the paddles.

Close by the margin of this lake, is a very pretty circular temple, with

a figure of Apollo, that forms a prominent object from several points of

view. A small cascade passing under a ledge of rockwork, on the top of

which is placed a marble figure of Pan, and a goat at his feet, forms

another object of interest in this part.

The grounds from the south west of the bathing house, (or Pavilion,

which is ornamented by paintings and statues) have been lately much

improved, and are now considerably varied with different clumps of trees

and shrubs, undulations and rockwork. The surface is naturally a flat,

but art has, during the last three years, created great inequalities and

alterations in this part of the grounds; the banks and undulations are

very judiciously formed, the trees and shrubs tastefully grouped

together; the walks and rides are of great extent, and very neatly kept

and gravelled.

The range of plant houses at Nymphenburg is the most extensive and

substantially built of any that I had previously seen in Germany, about

one thousand feet in length, and varying from twenty to twenty four feet

in width, the height not exceeding twenty-eight feet. I was here

surprised to find that the hothouse in which a fine collection of

_Palmæ_, and other Brazilian plants were grown, was heated by very small

hot water pipes, which I imagined were far too small to sustain the

temperature of such a house, although the back and roof are opaque, and

of course require considerably less artificial heat than if constructed

with glass on all sides. The boiler that heats this house is about seven

feet long, three deep, and three feet six inches wide, and consequently

contains a large body of water, when once heated it gives out a great

portion of caloric from its sides and surface, being placed at the back

of the house, but in the interior, and concealed by the plants. The

pipes branch right and left from the boiler and appeared to be only two

inches in diameter, yet, I was informed, they were found quite

sufficient for the heating of this conservatory. Undoubtedly the boiler

being so very large rendered pipes of greater dimensions unnecessary.

The frost is, however, much more intense in Germany than in England; the

_Lauristinus_, _Arbutus_, _Rhododendrons_, _Portugal_ and _Common

Laurel_, were cultivated at Nymphenburg as green-house plants; they are

too tender to endure the winters there.

In front of this botanical range, or more directly opposite to the palm

house, is an arboretum of hardy trees and shrubs, but the site, for that

purpose, is badly chosen, and by far too contracted, and should have

been selected in the pleasure ground, at some distance from these

houses, where there is ample space, and would have formed an interesting

feature. As at present the more common kinds of trees and underwood are

the only hardy species of decoration in many parts of the ground.

Opposite to the east end of the range of plant houses is an oblong piece

of ground, laid out in narrow beds by the edge of the walks, which are

occupied with a collection of dahlias, and other herbaceous flowering

plants.

On our return from this botanical range we visited a small private

garden, close by the palace, which has also a very pretty cascade at its

extremity, and ornamented by sculpture.

The palace of Nymphenburg forms almost a semicircle of a large radius on

the Munich side, or principal front, but that facing the gardens is more

of an oblong square, and in consequence of the numerous roofs appearing

from the semicircular front, that are disconnected and of various

elevation from the main building, it has more the appearance of a number

of small villas, than of a royal residence, particularly as we approach

it from Munich, by the side of the straight canal that leads to the

principal entrance. Nearly opposite the centre of the palace on this

side is a circuitous basin of water with a fountain in the centre and

rockwork around it. This water is conveyed into the gardens, and must be

of great extent from the appearance of the course it was running, which

leads a considerable way towards Munich. After our return from

Nymphenburg gardens, we proceeded to the English garden, which is said

to contain about five hundred English acres of ground, and is a favorite

promenade for the inhabitants of Munich. This park, or pleasure ground,

is rather of a flat surface, but much diversified by clumps of various

trees and shrubs, and fine sheets of water, the margins of which are

much varied, but unfortunately full of weeds. The drives and walks that

lead through these grounds in different directions are very extensive,

some of them being nearly five miles in length. The grounds adjacent to

the queen's palace are very well kept, and deserving of notice; but a

piece of water in view from it is very filthy, which is the more

extraordinary, as it might be easily kept clean by turning into it a

branch of the river that runs through these grounds.

We observed some very fine specimens of the _Juglans fraxinifolia_ with

fruit on them, and very large trees of the _Salix alba_, which were here

in greater size than any I had ever seen. Numerous clumps of various

kinds of trees and shrubs are grouped together; but these are in most

instances rather crowded, and not enough of lawn is seen to intervene

between them. A handsome observatory was erecting, situated on an

artificial mound, which, when finished, will command a fine prospect

over these grounds. We also visited several of the churches. St. Mary's

church is very splendidly fitted up, and has handsome marble columns.

In it is placed a very superior statue of Eugene Beauharnois. St.

Michael's church is likewise deserving of notice from the beautiful

marble columns. The choirs of the different churches were this day all

decorated with Orange trees, _Hydrangeas_, and other flowering plants.

Sept. 7th. I appointed to be in the Botanic gardens with M. Seitz, by

eight o'clock in the morning. Immediately on my arrival I met with Mr.

Forster, nephew to the vice president of the Linnean Society, who is

also much attached to botany. The greater part of the day was spent with

M. Seitz, looking over the numerous species of _Cacteæ_, and

_Succulentæ_, and after having finished my visit here, he had the

kindness to conduct me to the Glyptothek, which is a very magnificent

quadrangular building, containing a fine collection of antique

sculpture; the floors and walls are inlaid with various marbles, the

ceilings richly ornamented with gilt mouldings, and fresco paintings. It

has twelve apartments, one of which is devoted to modern sculpture, and

possesses some fine specimens in this art.

I next proceeded to the Pinakothek, which is situated at a short

distance from the Glyptothek, and is likewise a very splendid building,

but it is not yet finished. It is intended as a repository for

paintings, and consists of a number of very capacious apartments with

gilt ceilings of extraordinary splendour. The suite of rooms is said to

be 500 feet in length, and on the south side is a long passage or

gallery, the ceiling of which is ornamented with fine fresco paintings.

The exterior of this Pinakothek is equally magnificent, and when

finished will undoubtedly be one of the most attractive objects in

Europe.

Sept. 8th. This being a holiday and inclined to rain, we visited the

royal palace, which is at present undergoing great alterations and

additions. The first object that attracted my notice, was the granite

steps of the king's staircase, which measured twenty one feet in width;

at the top is the body guard room, and then an inner ante-room, the

walls of which are beautifully ornamented with fresco paintings, as is

likewise the adjoining room, in which are represented as though

suspended from the ceiling and cornice, fresco painting of numerous

fishes.

The family dining room, with cove ceiling and fresco paintings, and most

beautiful inlaid floor, must attract general admiration. The throne room

is however still more capacious, and the walls are ornamented by various

alto-relievos in plaster. I observed in several of the windows that the

squares of glass used were five feet long by three feet in width. His

majesty's cabinet is also splendidly fitted up. The apartments intended

for the queen are still more superbly finished, and represent subjects

in fresco painting taken from the German poets.

The surbase of her majesty's room is of fine marble; the room is about

forty feet square, the dressing room of rather larger dimensions. The

queen's throne room is really most splendidly finished, the walls and

mouldings gilt, and the surbase of fine blue marble. There are several

other apartments intended for her majesty, representing in fresco

paintings various subjects from the poems of Burgher; with the

pilgrimage to the holy sepulchre in fresco. The grand staircase is most

magnificent; the walls and steps are of fine marble, with four Ionic

marble columns at the top, the whole furnished in the most superb style.

The lower suite of apartments is equally splendid; the walls are

decorated with paintings in fresco of several of the emperors of

Germany. The magnificence of the decorations on the walls and ceilings

of the new apartments in this palace are such that no one can form any

idea of their grandeur without a visit.

Adjoining to this, is the statue gallery of antiquities, which measures

about three hundred and thirty six feet in length, by forty five in

width, with a cove ceiling painted in fresco. I here saw a beautiful

Florentine Mosaic table, for which Napoleon offered sixteen thousand

florins. There is also a Bavarian almanack of the fifteenth and

sixteenth century, in form of a circular table, about seven feet in

diameter, inlaid with brass; but the letters and figures almost

obliterated. The entrance to this antique gallery consists of a handsome

grotto in shell work, with various figures, birds, and devices, in

alto-relievo.

There is placed opposite the new addition to the palace a colossal

figure in bronze of the late emperor, with a huge lion at his feet. Near

this palace is a magnificent Post-office, now building. There is also

the Theatre, which is likewise a very splendid structure. We next

visited the Gallery of Paintings, which is well deserving of notice, and

contains a very valuable collection of pictures. The space of ground

called the Hof Garden, which is a fashionable promenade, and consists of

numerous rows of trees and gravel walks, is bounded on one side by a

very long gallery, highly ornamented with various frescos. Although

denominated a garden, I could see neither flowers nor shrubs; only rows

of trees, that formed a shady promenade in the summer months, when it is

much frequented by tea-parties.

In the afternoon we made another visit to the English garden, and round

the environs of the town; but this being a holiday, all the principal

establishments were shut. I was however unable to hear of there being

any other garden establishment worth seeing, that I had not previously

seen: we therefore procured our passports, and secured our places in the

diligence for Stuttgard.

Sept. 9th. Left Munich at six o'clock a.m. The scenery for the first

stage was rather flat, but as we approached Augsburg it became

considerably more varied. By the side of the road on this route I

observed the _Gentiana Pneumonanthe_, in great abundance; I here had an

opportunity of collecting several specimens, whilst the diligence was

ascending a long hill, which was well planted, and where some fine trees

of the spruce fir were in view.

The houses in Augsburg have old-fashioned red tiled roofs, with numerous

windows projecting like skylights, even five rows deep on the sides, in

very bad taste. Augsburg contains 27,000 inhabitants; and several

ancient buildings, particularly the Episcopal palace, Cathedral, and

Town-hall. The Cathedral, a Gothic building, contains some curious old

tapestry and paintings, representing the apostles sleeping whilst our

Saviour was praying. There are also some curious old tombs, with models;

and several handsome fonts with large bronze figures. The Town-house,

which contains a picture gallery over the ground floor, is a very fine

building; the gallery where the paintings are kept is 120 feet long, 62

feet wide, and 56 feet high, with a carved wood ceiling, richly gilt.

The pictures were many of them of immense dimensions, and in fine

preservation, but of the old German school. We here also visited the

German Literary Gazette printing-office, and also the steam engine which

is used for throwing up the water to supply the different fountains in

the town.

Whilst Mr. Parker was making purchases of books here, I proceeded to the

garden of M. Schatzle, which is situated in the suburbs. This garden is

very well kept, and contains some good exotic and Cape plants, and a

good shew of summer flowers, with several straight avenues of trees

planted so as to form an arbour or shady walk. In this garden is placed

a colossal group in bronze that weighs 10,500 pounds, executed by

Chirardi in honour of Fugger. The first of the Fugger family was an

Augsburg merchant, and is said to have left his heirs above six millions

of golden crowns, besides other property. From thence I proceeded to the

nursery of M. Schultz, which contains vegetables as well as nursery

stock: there are two or three small hothouses, or rather pits, for the

growth of the tender species, but I saw but little in this establishment

worth notice, although considered the best nursery garden about

Augsburg.

It was now drawing near the hour that we were to take our departure from

Augsburg in the diligence; whence we started at 7 o'clock p.m. for Ulm,

the next town of any note.

I omitted to mention that we were accompanied through the different

departments in Augsburg by the French gentleman who travelled with us

from Dresden to Munich, and also by Mr. Withy, who was returning from a

tour, and going then to Heidelberg; he travelled with us as far as

Stuttgard, where we all parted.

Sept. 10th. Arrived at Ulm at half-past four o'clock in the morning.

This is a pretty town, situated on the left bank of the Danube, in the

kingdom of Wurtemberg, and is said to contain 23,000 inhabitants. We

stopped here about an hour.

The first stage beyond Ulm consists of a fine agricultural district. The

second stage presented rocky and fine scenery, planted with hard wood,

the birch and beech trees intermixed, but the latter sort pre-hills on

both sides, which is particularly picturesque, and surpasses the much

admired Matlock scenery, for many miles. When we arrived at Geislingen

we had time to admire the huge rocks peeping out amongst the trees

opposite this village, where there is also a very fine prospect tower,

which overlooks the town, and great extent of country. I observed,

growing on the banks of Geislingen glen, the _Asclepius vincetoxicum_,

_Helleborus officinalis_, and several other scarce plants.

Along this country numerous orchards of fruit trees prevailed, such as

plums, pears, and the apple, which were very abundant, all growing close

by the road side and full of fruit.

The road through Geislingen to Goppingen is very beautiful, being a

great vineyard country for many miles, commencing about Plockingen, and

extending along the face of the hills to Stuttgard. We passed through an

old fashioned town called Esslingen, which is situated on the Necker, a

river that heightens in a great degree the beauty of the whole valley

along which it winds.

Cobbett's corn appears to be extensively cultivated in this district,

particularly near to Stuttgard, where we arrived at six o'clock in the

evening. Here I lost all my travelling companions, Mr. Parker starting

for Frankfort immediately, and Mr. Withy the following morning for

Heidelberg; both which towns I afterwards visited.

Sept. 11th. M. Hertz, who has a small nursery garden in Stuttgard, and

whom I had previously seen in Kew gardens, very kindly volunteered to

accompany me to the Royal Botanic Gardens here, which are situated at a

short distance from the palace, and contain a number of old hothouses,

and a good collection of plants in a very healthy state. In short, I was

surprised to see the plants looking so healthy in such old worn out

opaque roofed houses.

There are also cultivated here many very fine specimens of the _Cacteæ_.

I saw one of the _Cacteæ senilis_ above eighteen inches long, a very

fine healthy plant. The _Echinocactus cornigerus_ measured about six

inches in circumference, and some other kinds were also nearly as fine.

The pleasure ground belonging to this palace contains about two hundred

and sixty German acres; it is tastefully planted, and laid out in

numerous drives and rides, forming a pleasant promenade for the public.

A very fine orangery, with dark roof, is situated at a considerable

distance from the Botanic gardens, and near it a very complete flower

house was erecting, the rafters of which were of metal, and the sashes

all wood, heated with smoke flues, that pass under the pit, where an

arched cellar is formed, so that mushrooms or other vegetables may be

accelerated. I regretted that this house was not heated by hot-water,

which would have rendered it very complete. It is intended to remove

near to it the kitchen garden, which is situated at a very different

part of the town, and in a very dilapidated state. Numerous pits for

melons, and pines, are in these gardens, but in this state of intended

transition they are not kept in good repair. After going through these

different departments, M. Bosch, the superintendent of all the Royal

gardens, then returned to the Botanic garden, while M. Hertz conducted

me to a small villa garden, containing a very choice collection of

_Cacteæ_, some fine large specimens of the _Opuntia_ tribe and

_Cereuses_ were here.

Having called on the Baron de Meyendorff, the Russian ambassador at

Stuttgard, his excellency accompanied me to a small nursery garden,

which contained some good specimens of plants of the more hardy sorts of

the New Holland and Cape species, but little of novelty amongst them.

From hence we proceeded to the chateau of General Spizenberg, which has

been lately erected on the side of a hill, commanding a most delightful

and extensive prospect of Stuttgard and its varied scenery. I was much

gratified to find that the old warrior, after undergoing the fatigues of

many campaigns, was now devoting his leisure hours to the pursuit of

botany and horticulture. Baron Meyendorff informed me that the general

acts entirely as his own gardener, and he has certainly succeeded in

forming a very choice collection of plants, consisting of hardy shrub,

perennials, and exotics. There are grown in this small spot, sixty sorts

of _Camellias_, a good variety of _Ericas_, and numerous other Cape

plants, with some very curious _Cacteæ_. In a little stove, divided in

two divisions, I observed also a few pine apples, but of a very inferior

size, and not worth the trouble even of eating, let alone rearing. The

other description of plants looked healthy, the peach-trees against the

low wall were very well managed and neatly trained. The vines were also

judiciously trained to a wooden trellising against the wall. On the

whole it is an interesting collection, and well worth the stranger's

notice. On my return I proceeded in the afternoon to Rosenstein palace,

which is about two English miles from Stuttgard; but his excellency

having the kindness to send his carriage, and being again accompanied by

M. Hertz, we soon arrived there, and again met with M. Bosch.

This palace is a magnificent building, placed on a fine situation,

commanding beautiful views of the Swabian Alps, also of Carstadt, where

there are found buildings of the Romans, and large pieces of fossils,

particularly of the mammoth. The Necker also forms a fine feature from

this palace.

The grounds are very extensive, and the drives and walks well kept; the

ground is now formed into beautiful sloping turf, which I understood was

formerly in a very unlevel and rough state. It is beautifully

diversified with various fine drives, which I could not but admire,

being destitute of the fantastic twists, that are so often thrown in

without the the least meaning.

At present the grounds around this palace have rather a naked

appearance, for want of trees and shrubs, but this defect M. Bosch is

rapidly removing, so that a few years will produce a very different

effect; much difficulty is however experienced in getting the trees

established, owing to the high elevation of the ground, and the general

droughts in summer. At Rosenstein, I saw one of the most complete

vineyards that I ever met with, formed on the slope of a hill, with

wooden trellisses, so constructed as to have the greatest degree of the

sun's rays, at that season when the fruit requires it most. These

trellisses are arranged about six feet apart each other, and are formed

thus, /_\, so that the vines are laid on an inclined plane, and the

fruit appearing on all sides, have really a delightful effect. The

trellis is five feet high, and six feet wide at bottom, and the whole

constructed something like a parabola, and continued along the slope of

ground in a curved line. I did not observe the vine in such a prolific

state any where else, and the whole looked remarkably neat. At a

considerable distance from the palace, some very extensive fruit

terraces were forming on the slope of a hill, near the town of Carstadt;

nearly two hundred men were busily employed blasting rock, and forming

the terraces, which are intended for the vine, fig, peach, apricot, &c.,

and from the fine sheltered situation in which they are placed, I

imagine the success will be fully equal to their expectations. On

approaching these terraces I was at first surprised to observe the

workmen surrounded by a number of soldiers, who were stationed at

different parts, throughout them. I however soon observed that this

precaution was necessary, as many of the workmen so employed, were

convicts, and heavily loaded with chains round their legs. I walked over

a great part of these extensive grounds, and was much pleased with the

different objects I saw, and improvements proceeding with.

Sept. 12th. Started this morning, for Hohenheim palace, which is

situated about six English miles from Stuttgard; it is now occupied as

an agricultural establishment, and has attached to it a thousand acres

of ground, devoted to agricultural experiments. I was much gratified by

seeing the granary of seeds, consisting of a great variety of the

different kinds used in husbandry, which was said to amount to five

hundred sorts. The stock of cattle and sheep, is very fine and

extensive. The repository of agricultural implements contains the

various instruments used in farming, from every known country, and are

all kept in excellent order.

The different domestic apartments in the palace, are occupied by

numerous pupils, who congregate here from all parts of Germany. I was

happy to learn that the produce of the establishment was sufficient to

meet all the expences, attending its cultivation. In the pleasure

ground, or rather nursery, a great quantity of the more common sorts of

shrubs is cultivated. I observed a fine tree covered with fruit of the

_Prunus cirrhifera_, an excellent plum, quite round, and of a purple

colour. I also saw a fine specimen of the _Tilia alba_, that was planted

by Duke Charles the _Fraxinus juglandifolia_, was a particularly noble

plant, as well as the _Quercus macrocarpa_, and various other species of

this genus. There are about sixty _arpents_ of ground here, under young

fruit tree cultivation, which are grown for sale.

During the time that Duke Charles resided at Hohenheim, the gardens were

much celebrated, and attracted numerous visitors from all parts of

Germany. There is a fine piece of ground called the English garden, that

was much admired, but now we have only the forlorn remains of it left.

At the front of the palace, are still several of the old flower beds,

and the balustrade wall, which forms a fine sweep, at the principal or

entrance front. It was in Duke Charles's time well stocked with orange

trees, but none are now in existence. The ground falls considerably,

towards the south, from the palace, and when under garden cultivation,

it must have had a very pretty effect. The view from the windows, over a

small town called Boblingen, and the surrounding scenery, is very fine,

the Swabian Alps appearing in the distance. I should imagine Hohenheim

palace, about sixty years ago, must have been one of the most

magnificent in Wurtemberg, but the apartments are rapidly going to

decay. The new road lately formed near to Stuttgard, winding through the

vineyard plantations, with their numerous small huts or watch boxes,

has also a very pretty effect, although rather fatiguing from its steep

ascent.

On my return from Hohenheim, I again called on Mr. Koster, the British

secretary of legation, who accompanied me to the house of M. de Kerner,

where I saw eighty-three volumes of the splendid Botanical work,

executed by the late M. de Kerner, which consists of above one thousand

drawings of the various fruits, and other exotic flowering plants, which

are undoubtedly exquisite specimens of that gentleman's abilities as a

draughtsman. These volumes were only purchased by the royal libraries of

Vienna, St. Petersburg, Munich, Stuttgard, and Copenhagen, at a price of

seventeen hundred pounds; only six or seven copies were executed, one of

which is still on hand, in the possession of M. de Kerner. After again

procuring my passport, I started about eight o'clock in the evening, for

Carlsruhe, where I arrived at five the next morning.

Sept. 13th. On my arrival I found that the diligence would start in the

course of twenty minutes for Baden. I started by it, and arrived there

at ten o'clock. His Excellency Lord George William Russell, kindly gave

me a note of introduction to Sir John Frost, the late secretary of the

Medico-Botanical Society of London, who was then residing at Baden, and

practising as a physician. This gentleman furnished me with several

notes of introduction, to some of his Botanical friends, and also kindly

shewed me the different objects of interest about the town; amongst

which was the fountain of mineral-water, so much celebrated, for various

diseases. It is of a very high temperature; so much so, that I was

unable to drink a glass of it, without first letting it cool; from the

appearance of the fountain, one would imagine that a strong fire was

burning under it. From the baths we proceeded to the castle garden, and

from hence, a considerable way up the hill, where is a most delightful

prospect of the town, and its very romantic scenery. The old castle

forms a prominent object of attraction, which, with the tremendous

precipices of rock, and plantations, render this spot the most

picturesque that I had previously met with on my tour through Germany.

An excellent promenade, called the English garden, with neatly kept

walks and pieces of lawn, is much frequented by the inhabitants and

visitors. Situated in the promenade is a magnificent building called the

"Conversation House," with numerous orange trees arranged in front of

it.