A waitress who has become competent may arrange and serve special

meals, delegating the work done formerly with a caterer to assistants

under her. She must be careful not to attempt more than she can safely

perform, and then carry out her plan with quiet confidence in her own

ability. Except in case of an accident which she cannot remedy, she

should not speak to the hostess, who should be left perfectly free to

entertain her guests without a care about the food which they are

eating. All doubts should be settled before the lady of the house goes

to her room to dress for dinner. A waitress, however competent, must

consult those whom she serves upon the special way of having many 84

things done. She must know how to sharpen carvers, but she must not

try her hand upon new ones without finding out whether the host

prefers to handle them entirely himself; this question to be asked, of

course, before laying the table. The special form of serving boiled

eggs should also be settled, and the question of serving cheeses whole

or broken.

Cheeses of the pineapple and Eadam varieties should be cut so that the

top will fit again closely and exclude the air. To preserve perfectly

a section cut from any large cheese, it should be kept wrapped in a

napkin or piece of cheese cloth wrung out of cider vinegar. Rhine wine

will answer the same purpose, but the vinegar will not leave an

objectionable trace. Cheese should always be served on a folded

napkin, for the reason that it is more or less oily and looks

pleasanter on the napkin than on the plate.

The crisp green salad, with its accompaniment of a red or golden 85

cheese, is one of the most agreeable courses of the dinner, and no

unsightly crumbs should be left on the cloth before it is served.

A carving-cloth should not be folded on the table. The corners may be

turned deftly together and the cloth removed to a tray on which it may

be carried to the pantry, to be folded later.

When a number are at table, only a part of the plates should be put

before the carver at one time; but the others must be ready on a near

side-table.

By learning to make dainty paper frills for lamb chops or for the bone

of a ham, and by studying simple garnishings of fresh parsley, celery

tips, and lemon, pleasant effects may be produced and a reputation for

taste and skill acquired. The same dish may be served in a variety of

ways, one of which may tempt the appetite where others have failed.

Instead of serving chicken salad in a plain dish at luncheon, it may

be put in cups made by removing the pulp from solid red tomatoes, and 86

each tomato placed on a bed of green lettuce leaves.

One is always pleased by a novelty, that is, after the more

substantial part of a meal is finished, and a waitress who becomes an

artist in her especial line may not only give a great deal of pleasure

to others, but keep herself from getting tired of the daily routine.

If she wishes to raise her work above the level of mere drudgery, she

will study to see how she can improve each day upon the work of the

day before.

Nothing should ever be done because Mrs. X’s butler does so and so, or

because Mrs. Y’s maid says she saw it done like this in England. Every

good rule has a good reason for its foundation; every rule which has

not a good reason for being should be replaced by a better one.

There are good reasons for serving the lady of the house first,

although this rule is often waived to do honor to the distinguished

guest for whom a luncheon or dinner is given. In a country-house 87

several distinguished people or dear friends are entertained at one

time; to serve the hostess first and follow a regular order along the

table makes no distinction. Novelties are often introduced, both in

food and in service. Dishes are served before which a guest hesitates

as to which fork or which spoon to use until he glances at his hostess

to see which one she takes up.

Not every one who travels goes to the East, and not every one who goes

to the East is entertained by Eastern dignitaries and brings Eastern

customs home. When a lady does dispense with finger-bowls and follows

the custom of a Grand Pacha in having passed to her guests a large

silver bowl of rose water, in which each one in turn is expected to

dip the tips of the fingers and wipe them on a pearl-fringed towel,

she need not be surprised if the first guest, seeing this bowl of rare

workmanship presented at her left hand, looks about on the tray for

some spoon or ladle by which she is to help herself to the pale 88

beverage. If the bowl be handed first to the hostess and she follows

the custom of the Grand Pacha, no guest need betray that she was not

brought up in the house of a Grand Pacha herself.

A hostess who takes pride in having her forks made to suit special

courses, like asparagus, and who has several forks laid by each plate

before dinner is served, finds it necessary to take up the right one

before her guests make a choice. I have in mind a dinner where the

hostess delayed the tasting of a course, the absent-minded host took

the wrong fork, some guests took one and some another. The butler did

his best to replace the right ones; but after all his efforts,

somebody had a wrong fork to the end of the dinner.

A waitress should remember, when going into a new family, that some

things, which seem novel to her and only to be done away with, may be

old-established family customs, to which she must adapt herself if she

is to give satisfaction. If she finds that pease, tomatoes, and other 89

vegetables are served in a semi-liquid state instead of the drier one

to which she has been accustomed, she must use the small dishes

provided, remembering that the rule, “all vegetables are to be eaten

from the dinner plate,” is not accepted by all housekeepers, although

it is by a great number. So, if fish knives are provided, she need not

feel that she is offending against good manners, even if she has seen

only forks used before.

However, there are some things which a little true tact and management

might alter for the benefit of all concerned. I knew one table where

many well-cooked dishes and many delicate desserts were served, at

which the relishes were something startling. Spanish peppers, stuffed

and pickled, I had been used to see cut in small pieces and served

from a pickle dish. At this table a whole stuffed Spanish pepper was

served to each person in a small dish which held some of the vinegar

as well as the pepper.

An improvement upon this is the serving of olives in small dishes to 90

each person, although it is hard to realize how any one at a

well-served dinner would care to eat a relish as if it were a

vegetable. Those who are fond of olives think them very, very good,

and those who do not like them think they are horrid; but it would

seem better to lunch off of them when alone, and not neglect for one

flavor the many flavors prepared for enjoyment during a

well-thought-out dinner.

A waitress with good health, a fair amount of brains, and a

determination to be a better waitress than any woman was before, has a

great field before her. But if she aspires to raise waiting to the

dignity of a profession, she must study; she must educate her eye to

know the difference between a line that is exactly straight and one

that is slightly askew; she must train her memory until the daily

routine is perfectly easy and she can give thought to decoration and

invention; she must educate her hands until they are to be trusted

with the care of the frailest glass and china, and educate her sense 91

of smell and of taste until she can suit each salad dressing to the

dinner of which it forms a part, making it rich or piquant, as the

other dishes demand.

In one of our largest cities I have been shown a large kitchen which

had been fitted up next to an employment bureau for the training of

partially trained cooks and waitresses. The teacher had been

dismissed, the cooking utensils and the range were for sale. “Why?”

“Because the ladies would not give their maids any time to come and

learn.”

I have no doubt that this was true; but there are plenty of ladies who

do wish their maids to learn, and if those who have opportunities for

improvement will make the most of those opportunities, they will raise

the standard of work, and inspire their co-workers who are now willing

to stay as they are and let well enough alone.

Useful Suggestions 92

In order to do any work in the best manner it is necessary that one

should be strong and well. To become strong and to keep well some

simple rules must be understood and carefully followed. One may be

blessed with good health, but no constitution can stand the strain

made upon it when the ways and means for preventing fatigue and

disease are disregarded.

To keep good health it will be necessary to form carefully and to

continue steadily nice habits of personal cleanliness.

Personal cleanliness includes more than keeping the skin and the hair,

the nails and the teeth, clean. It includes keeping one’s

sleeping-room sweet and fresh, and airing the bed thoroughly every

morning. To spread up a bed a few minutes after one is out of it may 93

give to the room an air of neatness, but it folds into the bedding the

close air of the night instead of letting it all go out of the window,

to be replaced by the freshness of the morning.

And cleanliness means more than a clean gown and clean collar and

cuffs. One of the first things for a waitress to consider is her

supply of underclothing. She will see the necessity of fresh print

dresses for morning work, and a neat dark costume for afternoons; but

she may be thoughtless at first about underclothing. Yet to keep

clean, and by keeping clean to promote good health, nothing is more

important than to be able to change underclothing whenever she feels

the need of doing so. And in clothing, stockings are an important

item. It is restful to change shoes, but more restful to change both

shoes and stockings. The warm, tired foot is very grateful for the

clean, smooth stocking before it begins its rounds about the evening

dining-table.

Slippers or low shoes for house wear must be thoroughly comfortable, 94

and shoes for out-of-doors must give a firm support to the feet, and

at the same time protect them from the wet and the cold. To buy cheap

shoes is not real economy. A shoe to be worth buying should be well

made and fit comfortably. Such a shoe will outwear two or three pairs

of the cheap ones which are showy but poorly made.

To preserve health it is very important to have a sufficient amount of

sleep. Girls sometimes say that they need only a little sleep, and are

never tired except just before they get up in the morning. But one

ought not to feel tired in the morning just before getting up. Sleep

should be long enough to refresh both mind and body, and care should

be taken to insure the necessary amount.

It may seem at first as if regulation of hours is beyond the control

of one who is serving other persons; but in this, as in many other

things, much depends upon the worker and the manner in which she 95

performs her work. If hours of waiting are ended early she must go to

bed early, for she will be required to be up betimes in the morning.

If she has to wait late at night it is not likely that she will be

required to be up too early in the morning, provided, her work is

carefully done after she is up. If she loses health and strength

because of too little sleep it will sometimes be on account of sitting

up late, as many say they do, to read exciting novels; or, when she

has evenings out, crowding as much exercise and excitement into one

evening as ought to go to the enjoyment of a dozen.

It is said, too, that the matter of meals is beyond control; but this

is often not so. Many a lady has taken the greatest pains to arrange

proper meals for the maids in her employ, and has had them served at

an earlier hour than those of the family. In this case a waitress does

not have to stand with an empty stomach, passing food which makes her

feel faint and ill, she scarcely knows why. The idea that a hasty meal 96

taken at intervals from the remains of a late dinner is better than a

plainer one nicely served and eaten at leisure is one of the greatest

mistakes that can be made; yet it is constantly made by many of those

to whom the choice is given of having meals before or after waiting

upon the table.

Many employers are more than ready to arrange for the comfort of maids

in this and in other matters. When they are not, it must be remembered

that they have been too long and too sorely tried by ignorant and

unappreciative help to hope at first that the new order of intelligent

and thoroughly trained waitresses is going to be any better than those

who have preceded them in the household.

With good health it is easier to break up bad habits and form better

ones than when one has to give valuable time and attention to bodily

ailments.

A habit too easily formed, and one which should be at once broken up,

is that of listening to what is said at table, instead of concentrating 97

attention upon the waiting. Not that there is any harm in listening to

good conversation, but if while listening one misses the softly spoken

“Bread, please,” or “Will you fill my glass?” and has to be recalled

by a repetition of the request by the mistress of the house, some

marks have certainly been lost from a perfect record.

Elderly persons should not be neglected, but should be especially

considered at meals. Often some little thing from the side-board, not

cared for by the rest of the family, may be desired by them. A little

forethought will provide the vinegar or celery salt or whatever it may

be, and no unnecessary interruption to the meal need be made.

At breakfast and luncheon a, waitress may add much to every one’s

comfort by keeping a watchful eye on the plates of the children. A

hungry child is sometimes apparently unreasonable without wishing to

be naughty. One child may be forbidden maple syrup on his cereal and 98

allowed sugar. If the sugar be not provided, and he sees the others

eating the syrup which he loves but may not have, it is almost too

much to expect that he will wait patiently until his needs are

remembered.

Waiting is a department of woman’s work which is capable of being

greatly improved and raised to a higher standard. The women who will

improve this department are those who appreciate the necessity of good

health, and who will use every means in their power to secure health

and to keep it. They are women who will learn thoroughly the duties

they have elected to perform. They will train hand and foot to do

their instant bidding. They will train the eye so that nothing in the

daily routine will be left undone, and so that nothing outside of it

which may add to the general comfort will escape their notice.

In the Invalid’s Room 99

It may be objected that the sick-room is not a place for the

waitress--that the trained nurse is also the waitress of her patient.

This is often true, for in cases of extreme illness it is many times

unsafe to allow the confusion of voices with the noise of movement

which accompanies the entrance of one unaccustomed to invalids. There

are, however, numerous instances of transient illness or indisposition

which are to be considered. If a little girl has had croup in the

night, and must be kept in bed the next day, a nurse is not sent for;

or if a boy goes swimming too early in the season, and has such a cold

after it that he cannot get up, it will not be considered necessary to

bring some one in from outside to take care of him. Then there are

convalescents after an illness, and elderly persons who perhaps two 100

or three times a week may need to breakfast in bed. Enough cases to

make it worth while for a waitress to consider as a part of her

training the proper way to conduct herself in the sick-room.

The nearer she brings her work to perfection in other departments, the

nearer perfection will she be in this.

The first thing to consider will be the nicety of her appearance and

the absence of noise. If she has been out in the street to do an

errand, she will on no account hasten to the sick-room with a tray

before she has replaced by her soft shoes the heavier ones which may

have a squeak in them. And she will at no time go hastily into a

sick-room. She will open the door as softly as a nurse herself would

do, and move as noiselessly when she is in the room. She will not

express by her looks that she thinks a patient is worse than the day

before, or say, in what she calls a whisper, as she goes out, “She

looks a good deal paler,” or, “I really believe he is going to be 101

down sick.”

The tray taken to an invalid should be studied as carefully as the

table in the dining-room. A trained eye will let no spot or stain on

the dining-room linen escape it; nor will a trained waitress fail to

replace a spotted cloth by a fresh one. On a tray cloth a coffee stain

or a fruit stain is not at all sure to escape notice because it is

covered by a plate or a saucer. That plate or that saucer is the very

one that will surely be lifted, and the stain will jar the sense of

neatness, which grows more keen when one is shut in from all outside

things which in health claim the attention.

Selection of china and glass is another important matter. A cup of one

pattern set in a saucer of another pattern is an offence to the

invalid’s eye, and to let a person suffering with pain put to his lips

a glass with a piece chipped out of the edge is a cruelty.

In the service offered to an invalid the same is true as of all other 102

service. If it be done by rule and method, as if by the working of

machinery that has no heart in it, it will fall far short of what it

might easily be made by a little care and thoughtfulness. If, for

instance, a chop--which it is well understood the patient must eat

plain--be served with a little bunch of cress, the fresh green feeds

the eye, and the invalid is conscious that thought has been given to

her pleasure as well as to her needs. A whole train of sad and weary

thoughts has been changed by one cheerful yellow pansy hastily dropped

on a tray so that it lay smiling between a cup and a cream jug.

A waitress who cares how she does her work in the sick-room and out of

it will soon find that the attention she gives is appreciated. It will

not be long before china closets which have been locked will be

opened, old glass will be brought out for occasional use, and great

pleasure expressed by its owners that it is again possible to have it

handled without fear of its being destroyed. This care bestowed upon 103

inanimate things is one indication of a truthful character, and the

waitress will find herself treated, not like one who must be watched

and in a sense suspected, but with the confidence which is her right,

and which will give her the sense of being an individual, not merely

part of the household machinery.

When confidence in her is once established there are many ways by

which it will be expressed. She will be asked to execute little

commissions given only to one who can be thoroughly relied upon. She

may be left in charge of the house, with the direction of other

workers under her, or she may be asked to go to the country-house to

direct and assist in its arrangement before the family take up their

summer residence there.

All this will give variety to what otherwise might be in danger of

becoming a trifle monotonous; but it is not the variety which is the

greatest advantage. It is the fact that she is not a mere worker, not

a machine which may do its work with absolute exactness, never losing 104

a minute, and always being in its own place. She will do her work with

exactness, and may be relied upon like a machine; but she will also

use her power to help, to suggest, and to put in motion forces outside

of herself and her routine.

When the best relationship has been established between employers and

those who are employed, the question of change will assume a very

different aspect. Questions which ordinarily make an end of any

contract entered into will be simply the subject of explanation, or at

the most of arbitration, and although others may come and go, the

waitress will stay on year after year.

When she does decide to go she will leave with regret what has been to

her really a home, and, on the part of her employer, the most genuine

regret will be felt and expressed. Great interest will be taken in all

that concerns her future welfare, gifts will be prepared by each

member of the household, the wedding will be made merry, and good 105

wishes will follow her to the new home, where it will be hoped that

she may have as much comfort as she has given to others during her

years of faithful work as a waitress.

Truthfulness in the Waitress 106

A waitress should be truthful in spirit, as well as truthful regarding

the letter of her contract. We are told sometimes that this is

impossible; that it is necessary to tell some falsehoods in order to

secure a good place, or to keep one after being in it for a time. But

this is not so. An expert waitress need never be without a place, and

she need never stay in a place for lack of another after real

difficulties have arisen in her way.

How do I know this? Because perfect service never goes a-begging, and

if her work is perfect there will always be a demand for it. Think of

our servants of the public--the clergy and the doctors. Does a

minister who satisfies his congregation ever lack a congregation? Does

a successful doctor have to drive about looking for patients? We know 107

very well that he does not; we know that his office is crowded day

after day. How did he come to be successful? First he studied, and

then he practised, and when he began to practise he found that there

were many things which he did not know. Was he content with the

knowledge he had acquired? By no means. He studied more, and put the

new knowledge into practice. How did he gain the entire confidence of

the persons he serves? By doing well what he professed to do, and by

being ready for any emergency. And this is what a waitress must do.

First she must study, then she must practise, then she must study more

and practise more, and she must be equal to emergencies.

If word comes to a doctor that a child has fallen down-stairs and

broken its arm, does the doctor send back word that his hours are over

and he cannot go to the child? And if an accident happens in the

waitress’s department--if a piece of ceiling falls, for instance,

when she is about to go up to bed--will she say that her hours are 108

over, and some one else must clean up the mortar in the pantry? If the

doctor thinks he is all through for the evening and another patient

comes in, will he dismiss the late comer without a word? And if, after

a table is all laid, an extra guest comes in, will the waitress fail

to lay another cover quietly and quickly?

Yes, many will say, so many patients, so much money. But it is not so.

The persons who take up a doctor’s time and try his patience almost

beyond words are often those who have no idea of the value of his

time, and who have no money to pay him for it.

When a maid calls herself a waitress she is not truthful unless she

has studied her work until she is familiar with it, and this

familiarity can come only after some amount of practice.

Truthfulness includes honesty, and to be honest means very much more

than being above taking money or jewels which belong to others. To be 109

true and honest in spirit is to have an intelligent care of whatever

is put in a worker’s charge and which belongs to her department. It is

not honest to let a beautiful damask cloth with a little rent in it go

to the laundress without first reporting the rent to the owner of the

cloth. It is not honest to let a fine carver rust for lack of

attention at the proper time. It is not true that no gas is wasted

when a gas stove is left partly turned on all night near an open

window.

We have often heard that time is money. Now if one does not understand

her work as she may understand it if she will study, she is constantly

taking other people’s time, which we are told is other people’s money.

That all the world is not honest, that we are not always treated from

the standpoint of strictly fair dealing, makes no difference to her.

She is not other people, she is herself.

Among the men in one of our Eastern States whose business it is to lay

stone walls is one who has an especial talent for the work. Stones 110

of any shape answer his purpose. He does not ask any direction, he

does not have to make any measurements, or use any stakes or a line to

lay his stones by. And in the whole State there are no such beautiful

walls as this man lays. Does he ever have to tell a falsehood in order

to get work? Does he ever talk about other persons interfering with

him? Or does he need to care what other persons think? He does his

work so much better than other men that it will always be sought. And

although he has a special talent for it, he does not let that make him

careless. His is true work, honest work, and so long as he keeps his

health and there are stone walls to lay he need never rest with idle

hands.

The Expert Waitress: A Manual for the Pantry, Kitchen, and Dining-Room · 第 3 / 4 段