When silver is washed clean and laid on the drainer, fill a pitcher

with hot water and pour over it.

Now use your judgment and see whether the water is clean enough and

hot enough for dishes. If it is, take a pile of plates, or your

vegetable dishes, or whatever you think you can cleanse without

needing hot water.

Change the water whenever it is necessary.

Never on any account leave dishes lying in the water while you go to 55

attend to something elsewhere. To do so injures gilding and color.

Remember if you are quick you can do a good deal before one water

cools, and you will have to change only when it is soiled.

Never put many dishes to wash at one time. The size of your sink or

pan will regulate the number. Put dishes of one kind in at one time,

and dishes of another kind in the next time. Then you can work

rapidly.

If you put in a pile of dinner plates, some bread-and-butter plates, a

little pitcher, and a sauce boat, and you find when you are through

that the pitcher is cracked, a handle off of the sauce boat, and a

chip out of one of the large plates, do not report that you could not

prevent these accidents. Such things do not come under the head of

accidents; they come under the head of carelessness.

You may rinse plates and dishes in the same way that you do silver,

with this difference: you must see that the water poured upon delicate

china is not too hot, or it will crack it.

Before you begin to wash at all, ask yourself where you are going to 56

stand your dishes when they are dried. Arrange so that you have room

enough without letting clean dishes touch soiled ones, or without

being obliged to put dry dishes on a wet spot.

When your silver is dried put it away. Do not let it lie where it will

be spattered from the washing of the next things.

There are two good reasons for spreading out a clean towel on which to

lay your silver as you dry it. One is that the silver does not get

scratched, and the other is that it enables you to handle it in a

noiseless manner.

There is a good reason for washing dishes of one kind together, aside

from the question of cracking and chipping. When they are washed and

dried they are ready to put away without further sorting.

Silver trays used at each meal should be washed after each meal, just

as regularly as a bread plate or a crumb tray. Sometimes crumbs fall

on a tray, sometimes a drop from a sauce boat. These you can see; but, 57

unless you think about it, you will not realize that you cannot serve

a meal without leaving finger marks and dull spots on the edge of a

tray.

Watch the inside of your pitchers. Sediment from boiling water or

stains from chocolate may be easily removed the first day; after that

twice the time, at least, will be needed to efface them. If clear

water or hot soapsuds will not do it, use a little sapolio.

When your dishes and silver all are finished, cleanse your steel

knives. Never let the handles touch the water. Hold in your left hand

and wash the blades with your right. After they are washed scour the

blades with bath brick or on an emery board. Let the blade rest flat

upon your board; this prevents bending and loosening the handle.

There is a knife cleaner which many ladies would like to have used for

their knives, if they knew that it would be properly used. It is a

disk with emery pads on a wheel, and has spaces for both small knives 58

and carvers. If the knives are put in as they should be, a few turns

of the wheel will polish and sharpen them at the same time. If

carelessly put in, both knives and machine can be spoiled in one

using. But this machine is costly, and you will need to prove yourself

an expert before adding it to the pantry furnishings.

Care of Silver, Etc. 59

Once every week your silver should be thoroughly polished.

First clean with electro-silicon, or any perfectly smooth powder,

mixed with a little alcohol and water. Rub with soft cloths or

chamois, and use a soft brush where necessary. Sometimes it is

impossible to get all the powder out of tracery and filigree work. In

that case hold under boiling water and dry quickly.

If you have a Vienna coffee-pot, Benares brass trays, or similar

articles to clean, rub first with electro-silicon and a mixture of

one-half lemon juice and one-half water, then polish with hard silver

rouge.

To keep the polish of your tables in order, have a mixture of one-half

turpentine and one-half olive oil. Wash the wood with clear water, or 60

water in which a little borax has been dissolved. Never rub soap on

polished wood. Rub a little of the oil and turpentine on with a

flannel cloth. Polish with a clean flannel.

Lamps 61

Dining-room lamps are either a source of great pleasure or of

perpetual torment.

Any one who washes dishes according to the directions given will not

have to be told to have always a spotless chimney and no oil on the

outside of jars.

To prevent oil from oozing over the top of the burner, turn the wick

down after the light is out.

_Rub_ the wicks, do not _cut_ them. A new wick must be started right.

Loose threads should be clipped off to start with, but when once in

shape the necessity for clipping will be very rare. A wick ought to be

put in several hours before using, so that it may be thoroughly

saturated with oil. When a lamp has been burned, if one part is a

little higher than the other parts it will char first, and, when well 62

charred, can be rubbed off to the level of the rest. A bit of soft

paper, a nailbrush, or, best of all, the unbroken finger of a glove,

will do this successfully.

Be sure that no bit of charred wick or burned fly or moth is left in

the lower part of the burner. There is danger of these igniting and

setting fire to the oil in the reservoir. A clean, unbroken lamp is

not dangerous.

If a lamp has been left standing with a little oil in, it should not

be lighted until filled and the burner carefully wiped. It is possible

that gas may have formed, making the lamp, as it stands, unsafe to

light before refilling.

To start the circular wick of a large lamp, like the Rochester, put a

new wick in the burner, and saturate thoroughly with oil that part of

the wick that is above the burner, which is best done by holding wick

and edge of burner upside down in a shallow cup of oil. Put the burner

in the lamp, but have _no oil_ in the lamp. Light the wick and put the

chimney on. Let the oil burn out of the wick. This method chars the 63

wick so that it can be rubbed down to a smooth, even surface. Started

rightly, a wick can be kept even. The objection to this is the odor

from the burning wick; but the time necessary to do it is short, and

an open window can be arranged without having enough draught to break

the chimney.

When a lamp is first lighted, leave the flame low until the metal of

the burner is heated, then turn as high as possible without smoking.

This secures a clear, steady flame.

To clean burners, boil in water in which sal soda has been dissolved.

Put one teaspoonful to each quart of water.

To prevent chimneys from cracking, put them before using into a large

pan and cover them with cold water. Bring the water slowly to a boil.

Take the pan off of the fire and let the chimneys cool slowly in the

water.

If the brass catches of a burner are too tight, the chimney will break

as it expands with the heat. These catches are easily loosened without 64

injuring the lamp.

Alcohol lamps for kettles and chafing-dishes must be kept perfectly

clean. The wicks must sometimes be renewed before they are burned out.

The question, What is the matter with the lamp? may often be solved by

putting a fresh wick in the place of one that has become clogged.

This is very often true of oil lamps. There is more or less paraffine

in oil, which fills the wick and prevents combustion.

Carving 65

The chair placed for a carver must be high enough to allow the work to

be done comfortably without the carver being obliged to stand. The

platter must be large enough to hold the entire joint or bird when

carved, without any piece falling over the edge of the platter. A

waitress should make sure before placing a dish in front of the carver

that the platter is really hot; if it is not the dish gravy will

become chilled, and consequently unfit for use, before it can be

served.

See that no string or skewer is left to annoy the carver. The silver

skewers sent to table intentionally are, of course, excepted. The

platter must be placed near enough to the carver to prevent

awkwardness or the necessity of moving the dish. In serving large

birds, as goose or turkey, place the head always to the left. If 66

smaller birds, as partridge or grouse, which are placed across the

platter, let the heads be on the farther side. A saddle of mutton

should be placed with the tail end to the left of the carver. A haunch

of venison or mutton, with the loin or backbone nearest the carver. A

leg of mutton or lamb, or a knuckle of veal, with the thickest part

towards the back of the platter. A shoulder of mutton or veal, with

the thickest part up. A rib roast or a sirloin roast should be placed

with the backbone at the right end of the platter. A rump roast, with

the backbone at the farther side of the platter. A round of beef, with

the flesh side up. A sirloin beefsteak, with the tenderloin next to

the carver. A fillet of beef, with the thickest end at the right end

of the platter. A calf’s head, with face to the right. A roast pig,

with head to the left. A roast ham, with the thickest part on the

farther side of the platter.

A waitress should know how to carve. The first steps may be learned 67

by cutting bread and slicing pressed meats. To do these two things

perfectly, one must acquire a steady hand and a straight eye. Slices

must be of uniform thickness, thin enough to be delicate, not thin

enough to break. There must be no ragged edges. From the slicing of

cold meats to the slicing of a rolled roast or other meats from which

the bones have been taken is not a great step if the knife be in

perfect condition. Enough confidence will have been gained to grasp

the slicer firmly and slice quickly and firmly across the roast.

Further than this it will not be well to go without some object

lessons, for the meats are not the only things to be considered; the

knives must be kept from injury.

When you have placed a rib roast properly, watch the carver. Study the

different positions of the knife and fork, as he puts the fork in the

middle and cuts down to the ribs close to the backbone. The thick

gristle near the backbone will be next cut off. Then from the side 68

nearest the carver will be cut thin, even slices parallel with the

ribs, and the knife run under them, separating them from the bone. The

sirloin roast will be sliced in the same way, a cut being made at the

flank end as well as near the backbone to separate the slices.

You will notice that a good carver is careful to serve neatly the

crisp fat with the rare slices. This adds richness to their flavor.

To carve a beefsteak, the eye must be trained to know at once the best

parts, and all of the best should not be served to one or two persons.

First cut out the tenderloin close to the bone and cut it into long,

narrow pieces, then cut the other part from the bone and cut into

strips. Serve a part of each, and serve the fat to those who prefer

it.

To carve a leg of mutton or lamb, or knuckle of veal, put the fork in

the top, turn it towards you and cut slices through to the bone, slip

the knife under and cut them away from the bone. The under side may be

sliced in the same manner.

A saddle of mutton must be carved with the grain of the meat, in long, 69

thin slices from each side of the back. It must be partly turned over

to reach the tenderloin and kidney fat.

The leg and saddle of venison are carved in the same way as the leg

and saddle of mutton. When the leg and loin are served together, the

loin should be carved before the leg. First cut off the flank and cut

it in pieces, then separate the ribs and afterwards carve the leg.

It will be better not to attempt to carve a forequarter of mutton,

lamb, or veal until this part has been studied uncooked and the joints

learned. The same advice applies to birds, large and small.

To carve a forequarter, put the carving-fork in firmly near the

knuckle. Cut all around the leg and up on the shoulder. Lift the leg

from the shoulder and cut till you reach the joint. Cut through this

joint, then from left to right, separating the lower from the upper

part of the breast. Take out the blade, if it has not already been 70

removed, divide the ribs, and then slice the leg if it be required.

Roast ham should be cut from the thickest part down to the bone, in

thin slices, the fat and crust being served with each slice.

In carving tongue, the tip or thinnest part should be cut lengthwise.

The centre is the finest part.

Before trying to carve poultry, study the joints of the uncooked

birds. When you find a joint and cut the cord and gristle, a leg or a

wing is free. To find a side bone or a collar bone is not easy at

first, but can be learned by a little practice.

Watch the rapid manipulations of a good carver. Remember that to carve

a roast chicken or turkey, you remove first the leg, then the wing,

from one side, then the leg and wing from the other side, separating

the joints. Then carve the breast on each side; next take off the

wishbone, separate the collar bones and shoulder blades, separate the

breastbone from the back, then the back from the body, and then the 71

side bones. In large birds the second joints and legs should be carved

in at least two pieces.

The breast of a roast goose and of a roast duck should be cut parallel

to the breastbone.

Small birds, when not served whole, may be cut from the neck to the

end of the breast and down through the backbone.

To carve a large partridge, cut off the leg and wing from one side,

then from the other; leg and wing should be served together. Remove

the breast from the back and cut it through the middle. When the birds

are smaller, serve one half of a bird to each person.

In carving fish, learn to serve neatly and leave the backbone on the

platter. Carve to the bone, and serve. Remove the bone to one side and

carve the lower half.

A carver should try not only to serve each person acceptably, but to

leave the meat on the platter in appetizing form for a second helping.

Care of Carvers 72

Fine carvers should be treated with the same respect as fine razors.

They should be laid always by themselves. On no account should the

edge of one carver touch that of another carver, nor should it touch

any other hard substance.

A carver must always be sharpened on its steel before it is offered

for use, unless a contrary direction is given, and when necessary

should be taken without delay to the shop of a careful workman to have

the edge renewed.

It is safest to replace carvers in their own cases. When they are laid

in a drawer, it is well to keep each one in its own simple case of

heavy gray flannel.

General Rules 73

The air of a dining-room must be fresh, and not too warm. Furniture

must be free from dust. Table-cloths must be laid straight and smooth.

Side-tables must be draped. Napkins must be folded simply, and not in

fanciful shapes, as fans, etc. The edge of a knife must be turned

towards the plate; bowls of spoons and tines of forks turned up.

Knives and spoons must be placed at the right of a plate; forks at the

left. Place knives and forks in the order in which they are to be

used; the first one used, on the outside.

All glasses must be placed at the right.

Napkins and bread-and-butter plates must be placed at the left.

Carvers, fish-slice and fork, etc., should be laid on a side-table

until needed, then placed quietly and quickly, the knife at the right 74

of the platter, and the fork at the left.

Extra plates, glasses, knives, forks, and spoons should be in

readiness on the side-board.

Such things as mustard, vinegar, etc., which may be wanted, should be

in readiness on the side-table or in the pantry.

Filtered water, ice, and extra bread or rolls should always be at hand

in the pantry during a meal.

Bread must be freshly cut.

Water must be fresh and cool.

Butter must not be served so soon as to become soft.

A waitress is responsible for the proper heating of dishes before they

are brought to the table.

A meal must not be announced until everything is ready which is or may

be needed.

Everything not too large to rest comfortably upon a serving-tray

should be handed from it.

Any dish from which a person at table helps himself should be offered 75

at the left. Any dish which the waitress serves should be placed at

the right.

Glasses for water must be kept filled.

In removing a course, food must be first taken; then soiled china,

glass, silver, and cutlery; then clean china, glass, silver, and

cutlery; then carving-cloths, and lastly crumbs.

Soiled plates and dishes should be removed from the right.

To remove a carving-cloth, fold it quickly together and lift to tray.

Everything relating only to one course must be removed before serving

another course.

Plates and dishes must never be piled together so that china rests on

pieces of silver.

Work in pantry must be as nearly noiseless as possible.

A waitress must not leave the dining-room until she is sure that there

is nothing more for her to do.

Before a girl is an “expert” in waiting she must learn:

To stand straight. 76

To step lightly and quickly.

To dress neatly.

To keep tidy hair, clean teeth, and clean finger-nails.

To close a door without noise.

To take proper care of a dining-room, pantry, silver, brass, lamps,

and polished wood.

To handle dishes and silver in a quiet manner.

To carry dishes without having them touch her dress.

To treat carvers with as much respect as if they were razors.

To sharpen carvers.

To remove crumbs.

To cut bread.

To make butter balls.

To dress salads.

To make sandwiches.

To make coffee, tea, and chocolate.

To serve wines.

Miscellaneous Instructions 77

Dainty meals are served in a great many houses where there is neither

time nor inclination for the number of courses which are considered

necessary at other tables. Perfection of serving, that is, perfect

comfort, should be aimed at as much in one case as in the other. There

should be absolute cleanliness and noiseless movement. Meals should be

ready on time, and there should be no occasion to wait for things that

ought to be close at hand. Time may be gained without causing

confusion, if proper thought be given beforehand to the serving of

each particular dish. Instead of passing a fish sauce, it may, in many

cases, be put on the platter with the fish, so that the carver serves

some of it with each helping. Meat gravies may be put on the table to 78

be passed from one to another without the help of the waitress. When

this is done the waitress should select two suitable gravy boats or

bowls, see that they are properly heated and not filled too full. When

she has brought hot plates to the carver she may bring the gravy

boats, put one near one end of the table and another near the other

end. This may be done so quickly that she will be ready to take the

first plate which the carver has ready for her. The same rule applies

to pudding sauces. Instead of one large bowl or dish, two pretty,

smaller ones may be selected and put on the table immediately after

the pudding has been placed before the hostess. Pickles and other

relishes may be served in two or more small dishes and put at

convenient distances along the table.

A dinner-table is much more attractive with a handsome plate before

each person as he or she is seated; but where time and space are

limited, the cold plate may be dispensed with.

The proper placing of a side-table makes every difference in the 79

serving of a meal. A small table at each end of the room is often

desirable. This gives a proper place to put down a vegetable or other

dish, without walking the length of the room, when the waitress needs

to take a plate to the carver for a second helping. This table may

hold whatever extras may be needed by the hostess for the dishes which

she serves, as the table near the host holds extra carvers, etc.,

which he may need. These tables must be used with discretion, and no

unsightly dish, which should be at once carried to the pantry, must be

allowed to remain on them. Their object, like that of the dinner wagon

described in “Care of Dining-Room,” is simply to lessen time between

courses and to help a waitress to pass vegetables before meats have

grown cold.

The best serving is often most appreciated where there are not the

conveniences necessary for carrying out rules which at first sight

seem very simple. To remove the dishes from a dinner of even five or 80

six courses, according to the directions given, it is necessary to

have a pantry large enough to put down the dishes as they are taken

from the table, without piling one upon the other. This takes a good

deal of space. The one waitress has no assistant to take from her hand

and deftly separate knives, forks, and spoons from plates and dishes,

piling all in a compact manner. It is necessary, therefore, that she

should exercise her very best common-sense.

If the pantry opens into a roomy, well-ventilated kitchen, by a swing

door which makes no noise, then a large table may be placed in the

kitchen so that an extra step or two will make possible the putting

down of all dishes for which there is no room in the pantry. Where

this is not possible, some means must be devised for gathering

together the dishes with the least possible confusion. One way to do

it is the following:

When a course is finished take a suitable tray for soiled dishes; go

to the right of each person to remove the dishes, beginning at any 81

convenient place at the table. After a cereal course, place a dish on

your tray and quickly, without any noise, lay the spoon by the side of

it on your tray. Put the next dish on the top of the one you have

already taken and the spoon by the other spoon. When you have taken

dishes and spoons, take plates, piling one above another on your tray.

If there are few people at table, you may take all at once; if there

are more, you must judge for yourself how many times to go. Follow

this rule: Never pile dishes on a tray in a manner to look

disagreeable to yourself or to those who sit at table.

Salad and dessert plates you may remove as you do cereal dishes,

putting forks or spoons on the tray by the side of the plates.

After a meat course, go to the right, holding your tray in your left

hand near enough to let no particles of food fall upon the table. Take

the knife and fork at the same time in your right hand, lay the knife

on one side of your tray and the fork on the other side. As you go 82

around the table in this way put all the knives together on one side

and the forks on the other. Carry the knives and forks to the pantry.

Next take the plates. Put one above another on your tray until you

have taken three or four from the table. Proceed in this manner until

all are removed.

A waitress will do well to make herself acquainted as soon as possible

with the proper way of serving other courses than those of the simple

dinner. She should know how to serve oysters and clams cold on the

half-shell, or to see that the oyster plates are thoroughly chilled

without being cracked. She should know the different sauces and the

correct manner of serving. For instance, if game be served without a

sauce, she may offer dressed celery or lettuce to be taken on the same

plate. If a hot sauce and a salad are both served, she will provide an

extra plate for the salad. She should learn the correct temperature

for wines, as well as the glasses in which they belong, and various 83

other details necessary to be attended to during a full dinner.

Many things may be learned by cheerfully assisting the caterer who

serves an occasional dinner in the household, or by taking a position

where a part of the parlor maid’s duty is to assist an experienced

butler; or, in many houses, the mistress herself will kindly give the

necessary instruction.

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