Set out for Pisa.--The Duomo.--Interior of the Cathedral.--The
Campo Santo.--Solitude of the streets at midday.--Proceed to
Leghorn.--Beauty of the road.--Tower of the Fanale.
Leghorn, October 2nd, 1780.
This morning we set out for Pisa. No sooner had we passed the highly
cultivated garden-grounds about Lucca than we found ourselves in narrow
roads, shut in by vines and grassy banks of canes and osiers, rising
high above our carriage and waving their leaves in the air. Through the
openings which sometimes intervened we discovered a variety of hillocks
clothed with shrubs, ruined towers looking out of the bushes, not one
without a romantic tale attending it.
This sort of scenery lasted till, passing the baths, we beheld Pisa
rising from an extensive plain, the most open we had as yet seen in
Italy, crossed by an aqueduct. We were set down immediately before the
Duomo, which stands insulated in a vast green area, and is perhaps the
most curious edifice my eyes ever viewed. Do not ask of what shape or
architecture; it is almost impossible to tell, so great is the confusion
of ornaments. The dome gives the mass an oriental appearance, which
helped to bewilder me; in short, I have dreamed of such buildings, but
little thought they existed. On one side you survey the famous tower, as
perfectly awry as I expected; on the other the baptistery, a circular
edifice distinct from the church and right opposite its principal
entrance, crowded with sculptures and topped by the strangest of
cupolas.
Having indulged our curiosity with this singular prospect for some
moments, we entered the cathedral and admired the stately columns of
porphyry and of the rarest marbles, supporting a roof which, like the
rest of the building, shines with gold. A pavement of the brightest
mosaic completes its magnificence: all around are sculptures by Michael
Angelo Buonarotti, and paintings by the most distinguished artists. We
examined them with due attention, and then walked down the nave and
remarked the striking effect of the baptistery, seen in perspective
through the bronze portals, which you know, I suppose, are covered with
relievos of the finest workmanship. These noble valves were thrown wide
open, and we passed between them to the baptistery, where stands an
alabaster font, constructed after the primitive ritual and exquisitely
wrought.
Our next object was the Campo Santo, which forms one side of the area in
which the cathedral is situated. The walls, and Gothic tabernacle above
the entrance, rising from the level turf and preserving a neat straw
colour, appear as fresh as if built within the present century. Our
guide unlocking the gates, we entered a spacious cloister, forming an
oblong quadrangle, which encloses the sacred earth of Jerusalem,
conveyed hither about the period of the crusades, the days of Pisanese
prosperity. The holy mould produces a rampant crop of weeds, but none
are permitted to spring from the pavement, which is entirely composed of
tombs with slabs, smoothly laid and covered with monumental
inscriptions. Ranges of slender pillars, formed of the whitest marble
and glistening in the sun, support the arcade of the cloister, which is
carved with innumerable stars and roses, partly Gothic and partly
Saracenial. Strange paintings of hell and the devil, mostly taken from
Dante’s rhapsodies, cover the walls of these fantastic galleries,
attributed to the venerable Giotto and Bufalmacco, whom Boccaccio
mentions in his Decamerone.
Beneath, along the base of the columns, are placed, to my no small
surprise, rows of pagan sarcophagi; I could not have supposed the
Pisanese sufficiently tolerant to admit profane sculptures within such
consecrated precincts. However, there they are, as well as fifty other
contradictory ornaments.
I was quite seized by the strangeness of the place, and paced fifty
times round and round the cloisters, discovering at every time some odd
novelty. When tired, I seated myself on a fair slab of _giallo antico_,
that looked a little cleaner than its neighbours (which I only mention
to identify the precise point of view), and looking through the
filigreed tracery of the arches observed the domes of the cathedral,
cupola of the baptistery, and roof of the leaning tower rising above the
leads, and forming the strangest assemblage of pinnacles perhaps in
Europe. The place is neither sad nor solemn; the arches are airy, the
pillars light, and there is so much caprice, such an exotic look in the
whole scene, that without any violent effort of fancy one might imagine
one’s self in fairy land. Every object is new, every ornament original;
the mixture of antique sarcophagi with Gothic sepulchres, completes the
vagaries of the prospect, to which, one day or other, I think of
returning, to hear visionary music and commune with sprites, for I shall
never find in the whole universe besides so whimsical a theatre.
The heat was so powerful that all the inhabitants of Pisa showed their
wisdom by keeping within doors. Not an animal appeared in the streets,
except five camels laden with water, stalking along a range of garden
walls and pompous mansions, with an awning before every door. We were
obliged to follow their steps, at least a quarter of a mile, before we
reached our inn. Ice was the first thing I sought after, and when I had
swallowed an unreasonable portion, I began not to think quite so much of
the deserts of Africa, as the heat and the camels had induced me to do a
moment ago.
Early in the afternoon, we proceeded to Leghorn through a wild tract of
forest, somewhat in the style of our English parks. The trees in some
places formed such shady arbours, that we could not resist the desire of
walking beneath them, and were well rewarded; for after struggling
through a rough thicket, we entered a lawn hemmed in by oaks and
chesnuts, which extends several leagues along the coast and conceals the
prospect of the ocean; but we heard its murmurs.
Nothing could be smoother or more verdant than the herbage, which was
sprinkled with daisies and purple crocuses as in the month of May. I
felt all the genial sensations of Spring steal into my bosom, and was
greatly delighted upon discovering vast bushes of myrtle in the fullest
and most luxuriant bloom. The softness of the air, the sound of the
distant surges, the evening gleams, and repose of the landscape, quieted
the tumult of my spirits, and I experienced the calm of my infant hours.
I lay down in the open turf-walks between the shrubberies, and during a
few moments had forgotten every care; but when I began to enquire into
my happiness, I found it vanish. I felt myself without those I love
most, in situations they would have warmly admired, and without them
these pleasant lawns and woodlands looked pleasant in vain.
We had not left this woody region far behind, when the Fanale began to
lift itself above the horizon--the very tower you have so often
mentioned; the sky and ocean glowing with amber light, and the ships out
at sea appearing in a golden haze, of which we have no conception in our
northern climates. Such a prospect, together with the fresh gales from
the Mediterranean, charmed me; I hurried immediately to the port and sat
on a reef of rocks, listening to the waves that broke amongst them.