Rambles among the hills.--Excursions with Pacchierotti.--He catches
cold in the mountains.--The whole Republic is in commotion, and
send a deputation to remonstrate with the Singer on his
imprudence.--The Conte Nobili.--Hill scenery.--Princely Castle and
Gardens of the Garzoni Family.--Colossal Statue of Fame.--Grove of
Ilex.--Endless bowers of Vines.--Delightful Wood of the Marchese
Mansi.--Return to Lucca.
Lucca, Sept. 25, 1780.
You ask me how I pass my time. Generally upon the hills, in wild spots
where the arbutus flourishes; from whence I may catch a glimpse of the
distant sea; my horse tied to a cypress, and myself cast upon the grass,
like Palmerin of Oliva, with a tablet and pencil in my hand, a basket of
grapes by my side, and a crooked stick to shake down the chestnuts. I
have bidden adieu, several days ago, to the visits, dinners,
conversazioni, and glories of the town, and only go thither in an
evening, just time enough for the grand march which precedes
Pacchierotti in Quinto Fabio. Sometimes he accompanies me in my
excursions, to the utter discontent of the Lucchese, who swear I shall
ruin their Opera, by leading him such extravagant rambles amongst the
mountains, and exposing him to the inclemency of winds and showers. One
day they made a vehement remonstrance, but in vain; for the next, away
we trotted over hill and dale, and stayed so late in the evening, that a
cold and hoarseness were the consequence.
The whole republic was thrown into commotion, and some of its prime
ministers were deputed to harangue Pacchierotti upon the rides he had
committed. Had the safety of their mighty state depended upon this
imprudent excursion, they could not have vociferated with greater
violence. You know I am rather energetic, and, to say truth, I had very
nearly got into a scrape of importance, and drawn down the execrations
of the Gonfalonier and all his council upon my head by openly declaring
our intention of taking, next morning, another ride over the rocks, and
absolutely losing ourselves in the clouds which veil their acclivities.
These terrible threats were put into execution, and yesterday we made a
tour of about thirty miles upon the high lands, and visited a variety
of castles and palaces.
The Conte Nobili, a noble Lucchese, born in Flanders and educated at
Paris, was our conductor. He possesses great elegance of imagination,
and a degree of sensibility rarely met with. The way did not appear
tedious in such company. The sun was tempered by light clouds, and a
soft autumnal haze rested upon the hills, covered with shrubs and
olives. The distant plains and forests appeared tinted with so deep a
blue, that I began to think the azure so prevalent in Velvet Breughel’s
landscapes is hardly exaggerated.
After riding for six or seven miles along the cultivated levels, we
began to ascend a rough slope, overgrown with chestnuts; a great many
loose fragments and stumps of ancient pomegranates perplexed our route,
which continued, turning and winding through this wilderness, till it
opened on a sudden to the side of a lofty mountain, covered with tufted
groves, amongst which hangs the princely castle of the Garzoni, on the
very side of a precipice.
Alcina could not have chosen a more romantic situation. The garden lies
extended beneath, gay with flowers, and glittering with compartments of
spar, which, though in no great purity of taste, strikes for the first
time with the effect of enchantment. Two large marble basins, with
jets-d’eau, seventy feet in height, divide the parterres; from the
extremity of which rises a rude cliff, shaded with cedar and ilex, and
cut into terraces.
Leaving our horses at the great gate of this magic enclosure, we passed
through the spray of the fountains, and mounting an endless flight of
steps, entered an alley of oranges, and gathered ripe fruit from the
trees. Whilst we were thus employed, the sun broke from the clouds, and
lighted up the green of the vegetation; at the same time spangling the
waters, which pour copiously down a succession of rocky terraces, and
sprinkle the impending citron-trees with perpetual dew. These streams
issue from a chasm in the cliff, surrounded by cypresses, which conceal
by their thick branches a pavilion with baths. Above arises a colossal
statue of Fame, boldly carved, and in the very act of starting from the
precipices. A narrow path leads up to the feet of the goddess, on which
I reclined; whilst a vast column of water arching over my head, fell,
without even wetting me with its spray, into the depths below.
I could hardly prevail upon myself to abandon this cool recess; which
the fragrance of bay and orange, maintained by constant showers,
rendered uncommonly luxurious. At last I consented to move on, through a
dark wall of ilex, which, to the credit of Signor Garzoni be it spoken,
is suffered to grow as wild as it pleases. This grove is suspended on
the mountain side, whose summit is clothed with a boundless wood of
olives, and forms, by its willowy colour, a striking contrast with the
deep verdure of its base.
After resting a few moments in the shade, we proceeded to a long avenue,
bordered by aloes in bloom, forming majestic pyramids of flowers thirty
feet high. This led us to the palace, which was soon run over. Then,
mounting our horses, we wound amongst sunny vales, and inclosures with
myrtle hedges, till we came to a rapid steep. We felt the heat most
powerfully in ascending it, and were glad to take refuge under a
continued bower of vines, which runs for miles along its summit. These
arbours afforded us both shade and refreshment; I fell upon the
clusters which formed our ceiling, like a native of the north, unused to
such luxuriance: one of those Goths, Gray so poetically describes, who
Scent the new fragrance of the breathing rose,
And quaff the pendent vintage as it grows.
I wish you had journeyed with us under this fruitful canopy, and
observed the partial sunshine through its transparent leaves, and the
glimpses of the blue sky it every now and then admitted. I say only
every now and then, for in most places a sort of verdant gloom
prevailed, exquisitely agreeable in so hot a day.
But such luxury did not last, you may suppose, for ever. We were soon
forced from our covert, and obliged to traverse a mountain exposed to
the sun, which had dispersed every cloud, and shone with intolerable
brightness. On the other side of this extensive eminence lies a pastoral
hillock, surrounded by others, woody and irregular. Wide vineyards and
fields of Indian corn lay between, across which the Conte Nobili
conducted us to his house, where we found prepared a very comfortable
dinner. We drank the growth of the spot, and defied the richest wines of
Constantia to exceed it.
Afterwards, retiring into a wood of the Marchese Mansi, with neat pebble
walks and trickling rivulets, we took coffee and loitered till sunset.
It was then time to return, as the mists were beginning to rise from the
valleys. The calm and silence of evening threw us into our reveries. We
went pacing along heedlessly, just as our horses pleased, without
hearing any sound but their steps.
Between nine and ten we entered the gates of Lucca. Pacchierotti
coughed, and half its inhabitants wished us at the devil.