BAFFO AND KUKLIA.
Early next morning, on leaving my sleeping apartment, I found my
dragoman, in company with a young dealer in Paphian curiosities,
hanging about the door, and evidently on the watch to fasten their
company on me, should I attempt to visit any of the surrounding ruins.
Not being desirous of their interference, or assistance, I evaded them,
and quietly strolled down to the sea-shore. As I looked around, I
observed, against the horizon, the small houses and slender minarets of
Ktima, a little town standing upon raised stone dikes. Somewhat lower
down, a huge mass of sandstone extended for some little distance along
the shore, the appearance of which at first puzzled me exceedingly. On
the side facing the sea, large and small chambers were hollowed out,
and every here, and there, roughly hewn steps, led to the top of the
rock. Cesnola has made some of his interesting excavations on this
spot, and I will therefore explain these strange workings, in the solid
sandstone, in his own words:
“A little to the north-east, and half-way between these ruins and
Ktima, there is a rocky eminence sloping towards the sea, and called
Palæo Castro, the surface of which is perforated with thousands of
ancient tombs, some cut vertically, and others horizontally, in the
calcareous rock. Some are made to contain only one body, while others
are large enough for a score or more. These graves are all evidently
pre-Roman. I had the rubbish removed from one of the largest, and
found it to be an oblong building, with an atrium supported by three
monolithic columns, roughly hewn out of the limestone, and with a
court-yard in front. The tomb is divided into three chambers, which
communicate, inside, with each other, but have separate entrances. They
have a large number of niches, seven feet by two, each to contain one
body. Near the wall facing the doorway of each chamber, there is a low
platform hewn in the rock, on which apparently stood a sarcophagus, but
nothing of it now remains. The court-yard contains also several single
graves, but all have been opened long ago. This must have been the
family sepulchre of a great personage, and possibly that of one of the
kings of Paphos.”
The same authority gives the following particulars concerning the
contents of some similar tombs he examined at Amathus, and other
excavations made by him at Paphos, with, however, but little result.
“The quantity of objects in copper and bronze discovered in these
tombs, though mostly destroyed by oxidisation, is much greater than
that found in the extensive necropolis of Idalium. I observed that in
the localities where copper mines are known to have existed, as at
Amathus and Curium, more ancient utensils and figures in that metal
are found. The fact that these bronze objects are roughly made, is
sufficient proof that they have not been imported, but are of native
manufacture. Many curious little rings in bronze and in silver were
met with in these tombs, the use of which it is not easy to determine.
Some cylinders of soft glazed clay, probably of Babylonian or Egyptian
manufacture, also came to light, together with several rings of solid
gold of very rough workmanship, and entirely without artistic merit;
broken earthenware jars, bronze bowls, copper hatchets, and a few iron
arrow-heads were found, but all oxidised, so as to fall into powder,
and entirely without inscriptions. West of these tombs, facing the
sea, are to be found nine oven-shaped caverns, which contain a great
quantity of human bones, besides those of oxen, camels, and sheep.
These nine caverns are far too small to have contained the amount of
bodies indicated by the skeletons (I counted no less than sixty-four
human heads), but were more probably simply ossuaries for bones removed
from rock-cut tombs, so soon as the tomb was required for another
occupant, and its tenant dried up and forgotten. The fact that no
sepulchral vases or any other such relics are to be found, sufficiently
bears out such a supposition. In the tombs on the sea-shore, only the
bones of pigeons and egg-shells in clay dishes were to be found with
the human remains, these being evidently the relics of the funeral
feast.”
During the week Cesnola remained at Ktima, he made many excavations;
one of these was upon the site of a temple of which three large granite
columns were still standing; he also discovered the bases of nine other
columns, only a few inches below the surface, and still occupying
their original position, whilst all around were strewn architectural
fragments which had belonged to that structure. On the other spot he
investigated is a broken column, to which it is asserted St. Paul was
tied and scourged when he came to preach the Gospel in this city; but
the tradition is said to be only current amongst the Greeks of Ktima.
In this locality there were also shafts of columns, some blocks of
triglyphs and volutes lying on the ground, probably also the remains of
a temple. A silver coin of Vespasian, with the Temple of Paphos upon
it, and a few Roman lamps, were all the relics that were found after a
week’s exploration.
Before quitting the neighbourhood of Paphos, the same authority visited
the village of Koloni, which is situated upon a plain, stretching down
to the sea, overshadowed by hills covered with juniper-trees. In these
rocks are situated the “asbestos” quarries, of which we have already
spoken, and the much lauded “Paphian diamond,” which, however, is
only a superior quality of rock crystal. These hills, we are told,
yield fossil shells in large quantities; and earths of different
colours, green, carmine, and yellow, are occasionally met with in the
surrounding district.
Ten minutes’ ride from Koloni, in a north-west direction, is Ieroskipo,
now a mere group of houses. This name is evidently derived from the
ancient Hieroskepi, “Sacred Garden,” the well-known garden of Venus,
who was regarded by her worshippers as the goddess of gardens and
flowers. Cupid was supposed to have lived with her in Cyprus.
“There is,” says Cesnola, “a large cave which seems to have been
artificially scooped out of the rock through which a spring makes
its way, and after filling the basin overflows and forms a rivulet
sufficient to water the neighbouring fields; this is known as the ‘Bath
of Aphrodite.’ I must say, he would be obdurate indeed who would not
be captivated by the great beauty of the spot. The ground generally
slopes gently towards the sea, but here it seems to have been cut into
large plateaux or terraces, which are surrounded by a thick grove of
olive-trees, many centuries old. Among the olives is a sprinkling
of carob-trees, which, with their dark green and lustrous foliage,
form a striking contrast to the pale hue of the olive leaf. In closer
proximity to Ieroskipo, are a number of rock-cut tombs, but no vestige
of buildings are visible.”
After wandering some distance farther along the sand, I reached
Kapatah, a fortress built upon the shore by the Genoese, and here came
upon more tombs cut in the rock, and entered by means of roughly hewn
steps. Over the largest of these chambers, I observed an inscription in
ancient Cyprian characters, and in the grotto itself, which is divided
into two apartments, the hindermost of which has a small cupola at its
top, I also noticed half effaced characters upon the walls. Near this
spot was the ancient harbour, the dams of which were formed of blocks
of stone; a stream now discharges itself here. I was told that the
harbour had formerly extended much further inland, and had gradually
fallen into ruin, and been filled up with sand. The sea was plashing
against the stones in the foreground, the flowering shrubs of all kinds
filled the air with fragrant perfumes, and in the distance towered the
dark and lofty mountains.
Proceeding onwards, after leaving this fort, I came upon a village
embowered in trees and inhabited by Greeks and Turks. The walls, as is
commonly seen in the district, appeared to be constructed principally
of stones taken from the surrounding ruins, and I noticed many a piece
of broken column peeping out from its hiding-place, among waving
palms and flowering shrubs. Near a little church I observed some
small pillars, two of white marble, and two of beautifully polished
granite. Of another church only a square tower and the portion of an
arch remain. In the midst of the village is a roomy basin, formed
of large blocks of stone, which was, no doubt, the bath of the fair
Cyprians of ancient times; now it is merely a receptacle for refuse.
As I proceeded farther into the village I found huge blocks of marble
and granite lying in all directions. The French, we are told, in the
course of their explorations here ten years ago, brought to light many
valuable relics, and carried off the best of all they found. Knowing
this, I was perfectly astonished at the rich treasures of antiquity
that met my eye at every step, and I could only suppose the place to be
the site of a former city, over the buried temples and palaces of which
trees and shrubs had sprung up, and a few small houses for the present
poor inhabitants been hastily erected. The people still draw their
water from the ancient limpid springs. Even the higher class of Turkish
houses, which were comparatively modern, showed here and there traces
of walls and gateways of an early date. During the time of the Emperor
Augustus a violent earthquake destroyed New Paphos, and in obedience
to imperial commands the city that rose upon its ruins was named after
his wife, Augusta. At a later period, a second earthquake destroyed the
unfortunate town; but we have no clue as to the date of this second
calamity. I could not but groan in spirit as I walked and thought of
all the treasures that probably lay buried beneath my feet.
That evening I dined at the table of my worthy friend the bishop, whose
liberal hospitality had made me acquainted with a great variety of
strange dishes. On this occasion the repast seemed very homelike to me,
for it consisted of an excellent roast leg of mutton served with some
fine juicy lettuces, a dish of onions stuffed with rice, and a great
variety of sweet dishes, all excellent in their way, and principally
samples of Turkish cookery. This was followed by toasted bread covered
with layers of rich cheese, after which came coffee, and our ten feet
long chibouks.
During the evening many priests of various ranks dropped in, said a few
words, and again departed. It seemed to me they had very much their
own way with their good-hearted bishop. These visitors were followed
by the kaimakan, or governor, who appeared followed by half a dozen
attendants. This gentleman chatted with us for an hour, and then left,
begging me to allow him to send an escort with me on my journey of the
following day.
Early next morning I proceeded on my way, and as we approached
Hierokipu, I saw many grottos hewn in the rock, and noticed again and
again that the ground over which we passed sounded hollow as it was
struck by our horses’ hoofs. I was informed by a gentleman we met, who
owned property in the neighbourhood, that two years ago he had found a
place in which were five chambers hollowed in the rock, with a kind of
entrance hall in front neatly constructed of square blocks of stone;
within this stood a round pillar which had no doubt served as an altar.
Many of the odd little flasks and vessels were found here which have
been supposed (in my opinion most absurdly) to have been receptacles
for tears. These contained resin and ointment, the perfume of which
filled the whole chamber. When we were only some few hours’ distance
from Old Paphos or Kuklia, I rode down to the shore and took a survey
of the surrounding view. The mountain gullies were now dry, but at
other seasons, it was evident that the whole coast would be flooded
by the streams that flowed through them during the wet season. I now
ascended a slight eminence on which once was the site of a temple built
by Ptolemy Philadelphus, and dedicated to his beautiful spouse Arsinœ,
who was there worshipped under the name of Venus Zephyritis. Dinochaus,
the architect who completed the temples of Diana Ephesus, we are told,
contemplated making the temple of Arsinœ of loadstones, with a statue
of the queen suspended in the air by the power of magnetism, but he
died before the strange idea could be carried out. The daughter of
this queen was the fair Berenice, whose beautiful locks have been so
celebrated. This lady dedicated her luxuriant tresses to the goddess
should her husband, Ptolemy Evergetes, whom she tenderly loved, return
uninjured from the war he was then engaged on. After three years he
did return, ladened with spoil. All the south part of Asia Minor had
submitted to him, and he erected two temples in commemoration of his
victories there, calling them Arsinœ and Berenika. On this successful
issue of her petition the fair wife of the conqueror at once cut off
her magnificent tresses, and had them suspended in the temple of her
mother, the so-called Venus Zephyritis, Cyprus in those days being
united with Egypt under the Ptolemies.
What became of this wonderful hair is unknown, but Konou of Samos, the
astronomer, announced, by way of flattering the lovely queen, that
“Jove himself had stolen the tresses and placed them in the sky as a
constellation.”
The “Sacred Road,” which took its name from the number of worshippers
carrying their offerings, who formerly passed backwards and forwards
between Old and New Paphos, gradually rose slightly above the shore,
and as I looked around I could not avoid noticing the great beauty of
the sea foam as it rose in snowy wreaths from the stones on which it
beat. At some seasons, when a south-west wind is blowing, this foam
rises as high as the feet of the trees and shrubs, and presents the
appearance of small tracks of snow. The shore at this point, I am told,
would afford a rich field for the naturalist; I myself saw millions of
crustaceans and microscopical creatures lying upon the stones. Gazing
upon the scenes I could readily suppose how the vivid imagination of
the Grecian temperament should have led them to describe the Goddess of
Love as having first reached the shores of Cyprus mounted on the foamy
crest of a wave.
Cesnola tells us, that the two Christian churches, now both in
ruins, one of which was built within the area of the temple, and the
other within the boundary wall, the palace of the Lusignans, and the
entire village of Kuklia, have been constructed with the stone from
the ruins of the ancient city. Attached to each house is a penfold,
built without mortar, of loose stones. The church that stands within
the temple limits has several fine marbles embedded in its walls,
bearing inscriptions, which had obviously belonged to some more ancient
edifice, before they were placed in their present positions.
An old ruined castle, and a few miserable dwelling-houses, are all that
now remain of what was once Old Paphos, now known as Kuklia. We rested
for a time in a wretched coffee-house, which was full of zaptiehs,
who were quartered here, whilst they collected over-due taxes. Groups
of people stood around, some looking pitiable objects with their wan,
anxious countenances, whilst others again were perfect embodiments
of cunning and stupidity. The chief officer of the soldiers, when I
arrived, was addressing this crowd with polite dignity and a great
variety of expressive gestures. It was whispered in my ear by one
of the party, that rage and threaten as their rulers might, no more
money could be wrung from this wretched population. In respect to
their extreme poverty, these miserable beings appeared to me to be no
worse off than the inhabitants of Ktima and other places we passed
through. A few stalwart men were amongst the crowd, but for the most
part the people appeared weakly, and to blend the Grecian, Syrian, and
Italian types of countenance. After vainly endeavouring to persuade
some Turkish family to give us lodging, we were glad at last to take
refuge in a kind of very high shed, the mud walls of which contained
but one room. In this I camped with all my three servants. A carpet
and coverings were procured, and with these we made ourselves as
comfortable as circumstances would permit. After a short rest I issued
forth to examine this wretched place, and standing upon the flat
roof of a hut that stood below ours, I obtained a clear view of my
surroundings. The whole place appeared to be a mere heap of ruins,
the pillars and foundations of ancient palaces. The heights around
exhibited a few yellow flowering shrubs, interspersed with green palms
and other trees, whilst around and about this scene of desolation stood
the dwellings of the poverty-stricken inhabitants. Below me was the
court-yard of a Turkish house, in which I could see the women at their
work. They wore veils, and I could not help noticing how much they
seemed to inconvenience them, as they threw them first on one side and
then to the other, to be out of their way.
I now descended and proceeded to explore the Aditum, the only ancient
sacred edifice in Cyprus, which, thanks to the pictures of it found on
gems and coins, we can reproduce before our eyes. It had, apparently,
been a square building with a fine entrance, and a low wing at either
end. On each side of the portal were two obelisks. This temple was
surrounded by a barrier, in the centre of which stood the principal
altar. In the innermost recesses of this edifice once stood the
mysterious veiled stone of Astarte Aphrodite.