CLIMATE AND TEMPERATURE.
The climate of Cyprus is just now the subject of so much discussion
in England, that we cannot do better than lay the following facts
before our readers, only premising that we have left our readers to
decide between many slight discrepancies in the various statements.
In most respects the temperature and climate of Cyprus are similar to
that of the neighbouring countries. The great heat of Syria is felt
here, as also the violent winds and extreme dryness of Cilicia; but
to compensate for this, there are most refreshing sea breezes and
night dews. During the summer, as in India, those who can afford it
seek the cool air of the mountains, returning to their homes in the
plains and on the coast for the winter months, the cold at this season
being far more severe than (judging from the situation of Cyprus) one
would imagine. In the northern parts of the island, the icy winds
from Taurus are keenly felt, and the summits of the Olympian range
are entirely snow-capped. Old writers have said that the climate is
unhealthy; in proof of this assertion, they mention the epidemic which
attacked the army of St. Louis, in this island, in 1259, but many who
have lived there are not of this opinion.
Abbot Mariti, in his work “Travels in Cyprus,” says, “I must own that
quartan fever is very prevalent in this island, as in most parts of
the Levant; but this is not altogether caused by the climate. While in
Cyprus,” he continues, “I suffered ten whole months from an attack of
this kind of fever, and I have since learnt, my own indiscretion was
the cause of the long continuance of my ague.” The great heat of the
climate occasions a continual perspiration, and if, while this lasts,
one subjects oneself to the least chill the result is infallibly an
attack of fever. Another cause is the immoderate use of strong liquors,
and the eating of certain fruits, particularly cucumbers and melons.
Natives of this country rarely escape this epidemic, more especially
in summer, but they cure themselves without any other remedy than a
little bleeding, thus allowing nature to act. I grant this method
would not succeed in the case of Europeans, for to them the malady has
its dangers, and needs rather careful treatment, but it can be cured
by a rigid system of diet. The Greeks and Turks ward off an attack
by continued horse exercise, and the latter adopt the not unpleasant
remedy of a large glass of good Cyprian wine.
In Cyprus, as in almost all countries of the Levant, rain is
periodical. It commences falling towards the middle of October, and
continues until the end of January. February is a less rainy month, and
the sky is sometimes cloudless. The author before quoted, remarks, that
“towards the middle of March the rains commence heavily, and last till
the end of April. May is a delightful month, the refreshing dews aid
vegetation and temper the heat of June. After this season, the sun has
quite a scorching power upon the ground, which is moistened by neither
rain or dew.”
This state of things would be unbearable, were it not for the
refreshing sea-breeze, which is felt on all shores of the
Mediterranean. About the middle of September this wind ceases, and for
six weeks the heat is excessive, until, towards the end of October,
the sky becomes covered with rain clouds. Thus we see in the summer,
the south wind is refreshing, because it is from the sea, and on the
contrary, the north wind from Asia Minor brings all kinds of unhealthy
vapours. True it is, that the northern parts of the island suffer less,
because the wind has been partly cleared by its passage over the sea;
but it is simply unendurable to the people of the southern districts,
to whom it brings the parching heat of the hot dry countries, which
it has scoured in crossing the Olympian chain. Should this wind rage
for seven or eight days continuously, all vegetation is injured, every
fruit-tree and plant withered, and the looked-for harvest wholly
at an end. For this reason, scarcity is so often felt in Cyprus,
notwithstanding its fertility and good soil. These burning winds, and
scorching heat, are the scourges of the country.
The lower classes of Cypriotes wear large fig or cabbage-leaves upon
their heads to protect them from the rays of the sun. Strict attention
to cleanliness and careful avoidance of excess in stimulants are
necessary in this island as elsewhere.
It would seem that in the climate of Cyprus there must be something
entirely different from that of all the three countries between which
it lies. The climate is, however, subject to great changes; during
one-third of the year, rain falls abundantly, and during a second
third, it is as delightfully cool, and lovely, as on the coasts of
Italy, whilst the rest of the year is as hot as in the desert of Sahara.
During the winter season it rains incessantly; about the middle of
October, the rain clouds begin to obscure the sky, and from that time
until February the water falls down in abundance. To this succeeds an
exquisite spring, bringing with it the perfumes of a thousand flowers,
and a fresh and delightful atmosphere.
About the middle of March rain again begins to fall in passing showers,
which, although less violent than those of winter, continue with more
or less intermission until the middle of May, when they are replaced by
the heavy dew which falls during the night. During this season, which
lasts for about a quarter of a year, the country is a paradise, until
at length comes summer with its burning heat. In June, all moisture
seems to have departed from the atmosphere, and towards the end of the
month, the heat is fearful, and the sky becomes a changeless expanse of
glorious deep blue. Only from time to time, a fresh sea breeze finds
its way to the land, to indulge the inhabitants with a fresh breath
of air. The worst, however, has yet to come, for towards the end of
September, even these light breezes die away. The air becomes thick
and obscure, and the whole atmosphere damp and sultry. The grass and
vegetation generally are dried up even to the roots, and the leaves
fall from the trees, which now stretch out their naked arms like
ghostly forms, scarcely visible through the surrounding fog. Not a drop
of water remains in the brooks and river sources, and travelling is
only possible during the night. Business is at a standstill, and the
people do nothing but inquire, how long it will be before the rain will
come again.
It is thought by many that the summer is hotter in Nikosia than it
is in Cairo, notwithstanding that the sea and the snow-clad hills of
Asia Minor are at so short a distance. I can only account for this
circumstance by the fact that in the valley of the Nile, when the water
of the river is rising, there is always a gentle breeze perceptible,
and moreover, from the broad expanse of water which covers the country,
much more moisture is given off than in the drier atmosphere of Cyprus.
Mariti tells us, that the intensity of the summer heat is often
modified by a cooling wind called imbat.[13] This wind, which
generally commences blowing at two o’clock in the morning on the first
day, increases till noon, then gradually falls, and towards three
o’clock in the afternoon ceases entirely. The imbat, which begins early
in summer, and continues until September, appears to last about an hour
longer each succeeding day, for five days, when it recommences the five
days’ course. If the horizon should be clear the wind will be weak,
but if dark, heavy weather may be expected; occasionally a dangerous
north wind succeeds the imbat, which commences at seven o’clock in
the morning, increases steadily till noon, and continues blowing till
evening. Should this wind last for any length of time the crops suffer
severely.
The same authority mentions, that the cold is never so great as to
necessitate fires in the houses, these being only kindled to obviate
the effects of the excessive moisture. From this description he,
however, excepts the country immediately around Olympus, where the snow
often lies to midsummer.