MOUNT OLYMPUS.
We now pursued our way towards Olympus. At every stage fresh beauties
met our view, and every object was smiling with the first fresh
loveliness of spring. Oaks, plantains, olives, vines, myrtles, and
laurels grew in rich profusion on the banks of the stream along which
the road lay; whilst here and there we caught glimpses of sloping banks
entirely covered with white lilies. Before us towered steeps and broken
rocks, upon which a few scattered pines were to be seen.
Gradually we began to ascend a mountain pass, which was too rough and
dangerous to admit of our riding. My dragoman therefore took the three
horses, and, fastening them together, led them along. We had not gone
far before we lost our way. My zaptieh at once began to reconnoitre,
whilst the dragoman gave us a good specimen of his Italian origin
and French manners by uttering cries of grief and distress, coupled
with prayers for his wife and family, and fervent maledictions on his
own folly in accompanying me; his misery was so intense that I could
scarcely refrain from laughing in his face. Had we not been obliged to
help our horses along, we should not have had any serious difficulty,
as our way, though rugged and steep, was not more so than on many other
mountain passes I had successfully climbed. A few strenuous efforts and
a little cautious steering at last brought us to a safe footing, and we
could look aloft at the fine scene that towered above us.
An hour’s riding brought us within view of a broad extent of glacier,
whilst on one side the brown and purple mountain extended to the sea,
beyond which again the Cilician range of Taurus was distinctly visible,
looking like snow-covered bastions extending along the opposite shore.
The whole scene was one never to be forgotten, and this ascent of Mount
Olympus will ever be regarded by me as one of the most richly-rewarded
experiences of my travels.
I had been led to imagine that this famous mountain was still thickly
wooded, but such is not the case; only here and there we came upon
a group of trees standing far apart. The sides and peaks of the
mountain, exhibited a considerable growth of stunted shrubs, with an
occasional fir-tree or broken stump. Flowers there were in abundance,
and whole tracts were covered with hyacinths and narcissus. Not a man
or a beast was to be seen either on the mountain or in the valleys
beneath: it would have been easy to believe that some destroying army
had devastated the mountain, and then passed on its victorious path,
leaving the spot to barrenness and desolation.
As we approached the summit of this famous mountain, I observed that
the trees became more numerous. On our right the path led directly to
the cloister of Troaditissa, and on our left lay a valley extending to
the foot of Olympus. Hussein informed me that the cloister was about
two leagues distant, whilst, if I were desirous of reaching the crest,
we might do it in about three hours’ time. My dragoman no sooner heard
this latter suggestion, than he poured forth a volley of assurances as
to the folly of the attempt, and drew a vivid picture of the various
dangers that would beset our path, winding up by informing me that many
travellers had already lost their lives in attempting this ascent.
Night would be coming on, and then what would our position be? Why not
go direct to the cloister where we could refresh ourselves, and after a
good night’s rest make the attempt in the morning?
I informed my hero that it was now only two o’clock in the afternoon,
and that I had neither the wish nor the time to retrace my steps next
day; to this I added a strong appeal to his vanity, urging upon him
the honour it would be to him and his house for ever, if by his skilful
guidance I was enabled to reach the top. He wavered for a moment, but
fear got the better of him, and whilst I was sending on the servant
and horses to Troaditissa, he started off upon the road, shouting back
to me that “there was nothing in his agreement about ascending such a
mountain as that.”
I was not sorry to get rid of the cowardly rascal, and contented myself
with desiring him to wait for me at the cloister. Hussein and I at once
started to make the final ascent, and succeeded in riding safely over
the rocks and stones until we began to reach the snow. At this point
my horse refused to stir, apparently terrified by the blinding glare
of the snow. Blows and persuasion alike failing to move him, I was
compelled to leave Hussein behind in charge of him, and continue my way
alone. It is probably many years since any one, except myself, has made
the attempt. If Mount Olympus were on the European continent, hundreds
would climb to its summit in the course of the year; but the Cvpriotes
are indolent, and all strangers visiting the island, feel the influence
of its climate, and become disinclined for active exertion before the
end of six months.
The snow, which, unluckily for me, was thawing, formed frequent streams
of water, which rendered my footing so insecure that I sank many times
up to my knees. The higher portion of the ascent was worst of all;
again and again, after hard climbing, I found myself slipping back,
some twenty paces at a time. The rocks became steeper, and the snow
being lightly frozen over, and very slippery, my only chance was by
patiently persevering and slowly mounting step by step, digging my
stick deep, and planting my feet firmly, as I passed from one spot to
another, all the time following a zigzag direction, and experiencing
all those various sensations of hope and despair, inseparable from this
kind of exertion. Alpine travellers alone can appreciate the enthusiasm
that filled my heart, as I inhaled deep draughts of ozone and gazed
upon the scene beneath me. The landscape was one of the grandest upon
earth, and quite peculiar in its characteristics.
Cyprus, the third largest island in the Mediterranean, looked from this
point of view like a green and lovely gem, washed by the blue waves
of the surrounding sea, which met the horizon on every side. Towards
the north-east the dazzling range of Taurus is distinctly visible,
extending along the Cilician coast towards Kurdistan, and opposite on
the south-east the dark purple heights of Lebanon. Upon the summit of
Olympus one stands high above every other object in the island, and
looks down upon miles of varied and enchanting country.
The peculiarity of this landscape, is the strong contrast offered
by its principal features: the blue sea, the snowy mountains, and
the island itself; whilst the latter again presents three distinct
features, the dark mountains covering the western half of the country,
the long chain of hills traversing the Carpasian peninsula, and between
these the brown and golden tinted plains. Only once in my life could I
hope to gaze upon a scene of such magnificent beauty. The highest point
of the mountain which was entirely free from snow, is divided into
three peaks closely resembling each other in appearance. The centre one
of these, according to my own measurement, was 6160 feet (instead of
7000 feet) above the level of the sea. Unger makes this peak only 5897
feet high, according to the map contained in his work on Cyprus. It
is true I had only my little aneroid to go by, but it has never to my
knowledge failed me yet.
In vain I searched in all directions for any trace of ancient ruins;
I found nothing save upheaved stones, and rubbish. I do not hesitate
to assure my readers that as I stood at that immense height above the
surrounding scenery, entirely cut off as it seemed from every living
creature, an indescribable dread, that was almost fear, crept over
me. Not even a bird disturbed the air; and beneath me, as far as the
eye could reach, not a sign of animation was to be seen. On some of
the neighbouring hills I could fancy I saw small villages; but what
appeared to be houses, were probably only rocks. The sun began to set,
and a chilly breeze warned me that I had better descend. I had not gone
far before I saw Hussein waiting below with the horses. I waved my hat
to attract his attention as I observed him looking upwards, but strong
as were his eyes, he could not distinguish me at such an elevation even
in that clear atmosphere. Our way to Troaditissa proved much farther
than we expected, and night had long closed in before we reached our
destination.