When the poet was introduced to the Envoy, the conversation turned on
poetry and the works of the bard himself. He was extolled above the
skies; all exclaimed that in this age he had not an equal on earth,
and some declared that he was superior even to FERDOUSI, the Homer of
their country. To all this the author listened with very complacent
credulity, and at length recited some of his admired effusions. His
genius, however, is paid by something more substantial than praise;
for he is a great favourite at court, and, according to my Persian
informers, receives from the King a gold _tomaun_ for every couplet;
and once indeed secured the remission of a large debt due to the King
by writing a poem in his praise. Yet the people, from whom the supplies
of this munificence are drawn, groan whenever they hear that the poet’s
muse has been productive. Having exhausted the topics of the weather,
and the relative temperature and air of _Teheran_, _Ispahan_, and
_Shiraz_, our host took his leave, telling us that the house was our
own, a common compliment of the East. In the evening the Envoy went to
a conference with him, and settled some points of importance in the
negociation. The ceremonial of the Envoy’s presentation to the King
on the following day was then arranged; and it was agreed that the
audience should be exactly the same as that given to Embassadors at
Constantinople.
On the morrow accordingly we made every preparation of form for our
introduction; and each appeared in green slippers with high heels,
and red cloth stockings, the court dress always worn before the King
of Persia. Early in the morning we received a message desiring us to
be in readiness. At about twelve o’clock we proceeded to the palace.
The presents for the King were laid out on a piece of white satin
over a gold dish. It consisted of His Britannic Majesty’s picture set
round with diamonds; a diamond of sixty-one carats valued at twenty
thousand pounds; a small box, on the lid of which Windsor Castle was
carved in ivory; a box made from the oak of the Victory, with the
battle of Trafalgar in ivory; and a small blood-stone Mosaic box for
opium. The Kings letter (which was mounted in a highly ornamented blue
morocco box, and covered with a case of white satin, and an elegant
net) was also laid on a piece of white satin. The Envoy carried the
letter, and I the presents. When we went forwards to place them in the
_takht-e-ravan_ (the litter), and again, when the procession advanced,
the trumpet sounded “God save the King.”
The order of the procession was as follows:
Officers of the King of Persia,
Led horses belonging to the Envoy,
Native officers of cavalry, swords drawn,
The trumpeter,
Four troopers,
The _takht-e-ravan_,
Guard of native cavalry, swords drawn,
Persian officers of the Envoy’s household, in scarlet and gold,
dismounted,
THE ENVOY,
The Secretary and Gentlemen of the Mission,
Guard of native cavalry under Cornet WILLOCK, with drawn swords,
colours displayed,
Servants, &c.
The procession proceeded through miserable streets, which were crowded
by the curious, until we came to the large _Maidan_, at the entrance
of which were chained a lion and a bear. It then turned to the right,
and, crossing over a bridge, entered into the _Ark_ or fortified Palace
of the King, the building which contains every part of the royal
household. Here the Envoy, as a mark of respect to the King of Persia,
ordered the guard to sheath swords. There were troops on both sides,
and cannon in several parts, and when we reached the first court, two
very thick lines of soldiers were ranged to form an avenue for us.
They were disciplined and dressed something after our manner, and
went through their exercise as we passed. About thirty paces from the
Imperial gate the _takht-e-ravan_ stopped: we then dismounted, and
the Envoy and I advancing uncovered to it, took out the King’s letter
and the dish of presents. We proceeded through dark passages, until
we came to a small room, where were seated NOROOZ KHAN (a relation of
the royal family, and _Ish Agassi_, or Master of the Ceremonies) and
MAHOMED HUSSEIN KHAN MERVEE, a favourite of the King, and a deputy Lord
Chamberlain, with other noblemen, who were waiting to entertain us. Our
presentation was to take place in the _Khalvet Khonéh_, or private Hall
of Audience, for it was then the _Ashooreh_ of the month of _Moharrem_,
a time of mourning, when all matters of ceremony or of business are
suspended at court: the King of Persia therefore paid a signal respect
to his Britannic Majesty, in fixing the audience of his Envoy so
immediately after his arrival, and more particularly at a season when
public affairs are so generally intermitted.
After we had sat here about half an hour, smoked, and drank coffee, the
Master of the Ceremonies informed us that the King was ready, and we
proceeded again. We entered the great court of the _Dewan Khonéh_, (the
Hall of Public Audience) on all sides of which stood officers of the
household, and in the centre walk were files of the new-raised troops,
disciplined after the European manner, who went through the platoon
as we passed, while the little Persian drummers beat their drums. The
line presented arms to the Envoy, and the officers saluted. In the
middle of the _Dewan Khonéh_ was the famous throne built at _Yezd_ of
the marble of the place, on which the King sits in public, but to which
we did not approach sufficiently near for any accurate observation.
We ascended two steps on the left, and then passed under arched ways
into another spacious court filled in the same manner; but the men were
mostly sitting down, and did not rise as we approached. We crossed the
centre of this court, and came to a small and mean door, which led us
through a dark and intricate passage. When we were arrived at the
end of it we found a door still more wretched, and worse indeed than
that of any English stable. Here NOROOZ KHAN paused, and marshaled us
in order: the Envoy, first, with the King’s letter; I followed next
with the presents, and then at the distance of a few paces the rest of
the gentlemen. The door was opened, and we were ushered into a court
laid out in canals and playing fountains, and at intervals lined by
men richly dressed, who were all the grandees of the kingdom. At the
extremity of a room, open in front by large windows, was the King in
person. When we were opposite to him, the Master of the Ceremonies
stopped, and we all made low bows; we approached most slowly again,
and at another angle stopped and bowed again. Then we were taken
immediately fronting the King, where again we bowed most profoundly.
Our Conductor then said aloud,
“_Most mighty Monarch, Director of the World_,
Sir HARFORD JONES, Baronet, Embassador from your Majesty’s Brother,
the King of England, having brought a letter and some presents,
requests to approach the dust of your Majesty’s feet: (_Hag paee
mobarek bashed_, literally,) that the dust of your feet may be
fortunate.”
The King from the room said in a loud voice, “_Khosh Amedeed_, you
are welcome.” We then took off our slippers, and went into the royal
presence. When we were entered, the Envoy walked up towards the throne
with the letter; MIRZA SHEFFEEA, the Prime Minister, met him half way,
and taking it from him, carried it up and placed it before the King:
he then came back and received the presents from my hands, and laid
them in the same place. The Envoy then commenced a written speech to
the King in English, which at first startled his Majesty, but seemed
to please him much, as soon as JAFFER ALI KHAN, the English Resident
at _Shiraz_, came forward and read it in Persian. The original was as
follows:
“_May it please your Majesty_,
“The King my Master, willing to renew and strengthen those ties of
friendship and alliance which subsisted between the Kings of Persia
and of England, has deputed me to the foot of your Majesty’s throne,
with the expression of these His Royal wishes and intentions.
“To have been charged with such a commission, I shall always consider
as the most distinguished and honourable event of my life; and, when
I thus deliver to your Majesty the letter of my most gracious and
Royal Master, I feel confident in being honoured with your Majesty’s
protection and favour.
“May the Great Disposer of all events grant your Majesty an increase
of honour and prosperity, and may the friendship and interests of
England and Persia henceforward become inseparable.”
The King then answered in return, that the states had been long allied,
and he hoped that the friendship would increase daily; this the Prime
Minister explained. The King then said, “How does the King of England,
my Brother? _Damaughist chauk est?_ How is his health?” He then asked,
if this were the son of the former King, with whose subjects he had
had communications, and when he was told that the same King was still
reigning, he exclaimed, “the French have told lies in that also!”
(For they had spread the report that the King of England was dead.)
The Envoy was then conducted to a gilt and painted chair placed for
him, an honour never paid before to any Mission. I stood on his right;
JAFFER ALI KHAN on his left; MIRZA SHEFFEEA, the Prime Minister, next
to me; HAJEE MAHOMED HOSSEIN KHAN, the _Ameen-ed-Doulah_, and MIRZA
REZA KOOLI, another of the Ministers, succeeded; and the Master of the
Ceremonies closed the line. The other gentlemen stood in a row behind.
The King informed the Envoy that the choice which his Brother the King
of England had made of him as a Minister in Persia, was agreeable and
acceptable to him; he then inquired about the Envoy’s journey, and
asked some very familiar and affable questions. The gentlemen of the
Mission were then separately introduced by their names and situations;
the King said “_Khosh Amedeed_,” and we made very low bows. We returned
with nearly the same ceremonies as we entered the palace, except that
in the outer court, the Envoy was further honoured with a salute from
three pieces of cannon.
The King is about forty-five years of age; He is a man of pleasing
manners and an agreeable countenance, with an aquiline nose, large
eyes and very arched eye-brows. His face is obscured by an immense
beard and mustachios, which are kept very black; and it is only when he
talks and smiles that his mouth is discovered. His voice has once been
fine, and is still harmonious; though now hollow, and obviously that
of a man who has led a free life. He appeared much pleased at finding
that the Envoy could talk to him in Persian, as he did indeed after
the first introductory speech; and when he was told that Sir HARFORD
read and studied much, he asked many questions on literary subjects,
for he professes to be a protector of learning and of learned men. He
was seated on a species of throne, called the _takht-e-taoos_, or the
throne of the peacock, which is raised three feet from the ground, and
appears an oblong square of eight feet broad and twelve long. We could
see the bust only of his Majesty, as the rest of his body was hidden
by an elevated railing, the upper work of the throne, at the corners
of which were placed several ornaments of vases and toys. The back is
much raised; on each side are two square pillars, on which are perched
birds, probably intended for peacocks, studded with precious stones of
every description, and holding each a ruby in their beaks. The highest
part of the throne is composed of an oval ornament of jewelry, from
which emanate a great number of diamond rays. Unfortunately, we were
so far distant from the throne, and so little favoured by the light,
that we could not discover much of its general materials. We were told,
however, that it is covered with gold plates, enriched by that fine
enamel work so common in the ornamental furniture of Persia. It is
said to have cost one hundred thousand _tomauns_.
We saw the whole court to disadvantage during our first visit: it was
then the days of mourning, and the King himself did not at that time
wear his magnificent and celebrated ornaments of precious stones. He
appeared in a _catebee_ of a very dark ground, embroidered with large
gold flowers, and trimmed with a dark fur over the shoulders, down the
breast and on the sleeves. On his head he wore a species of cylindrical
crown covered with pearl and precious stones, and surmounted by a light
feather of diamonds. He rested on a pillow embossed on every part with
pearl, and terminated at each extremity by a thick tassel of pearl. On
the left of the throne was a basin of water in which small fountains
played; and on its borders were placed vases set with precious stones.
On the right, stood six of the King’s sons richly dressed: they were
of different sizes and ages; the eldest of them (brother by the same
mother to the Prince of _Shiraz_) was the Viceroy of _Teheran_, and
possessed much authority in the state. On the left behind the basin
stood five pages, most elegantly dressed in velvets and silks: one
held a crown similar to that which the King wore on his head; the
second held a splendid sword; the third a shield and a mace of gold
and pearls; the fourth a bow and arrows set with jewels; and the fifth
a crachoir similarly ornamented. When the audience was finished, the
King desired one of his Ministers to inquire from JAFFER ALI KHAN
(the English Agent) what the foreigners said of him, and whether they
praised and admired his appearance.
The room in which we were introduced to the King was painted and gilded
in every part. On the left from the window is a large painting of a
combat between the Persians and Russians, in which the King appears at
full length on a white horse, and makes the most conspicuous figure in
the whole composition. The Persians of course are victorious, and are
very busily employed in killing the Russians, who seem to be falling a
sufficiently easy prey: at a farther end of the scene is the Russian
army drawn up in a hollow square, and firing their cannon and muskets
without doing much apparent execution. Facing this great picture, is
another of equal dimensions, which represents the _Shah_ in the chase,
having just pierced a deer with a javelin. In other parts are portraits
of women, probably the King’s favourites, who are dancing according to
the fashion of the country.
On the 19th, the Envoy visited MIRZA SHEFFEEA, the Prime Minister.
He is an old man, of mild and easy manners, who displayed more
knowledge of general politics than any other person whom we met in
Persia. This was our first impression, and his subsequent management
of the negociation convinced us of its accuracy. He was sufficiently
acquainted with all the different courts of Europe, and knew perfectly
the name of every Minister employed either within the state or on
foreign service; and was deeply versed in the particular interests
of Persia. He had acquired something of geography, when the French
Embassador and suite were his guests; the Persians in general, however,
live in the profoundest ignorance of every other country.
In the Ministers assembly we met MIRZA REZA, who had been sent
Embassador to BUONAPARTE, and who entertained us with an account of
_Frangistoun_, [Europe.] He expatiated with seeming ecstasy on every
thing which he had seen; and MIRZA SHEFFEEA, who probably had often
heard his stories, said to Sir HARFORD JONES, “I can believe many of
the things which he has related to us, but one circumstance staggers
me; he gives an account of an ass, which he saw at _Vienna_, with
stripes on its back; that I shall not believe, unless you confirm
it.” When Sir HARFORD told him that it was very true; that there were
many such animals at the _Cape of Good Hope_, he was satisfied. The
traveller proceeded to describe every part of the Continent: when he
talked of the beauties of _Vienna_, and particularly when he mentioned
that the streets were lighted up at night with globe lamps, one of the
company (whose face during the different relations had exhibited signs
of much astonishment, and sometimes doubt) stopped him, and said, “I
can believe any thing else but that they light the streets with globe
lamps: you can never make me believe that. Pray who will pay for them?”
MIRZA SHEFFEEA entertained us with a breakfast more elegant than any
of the similar meals to which we had been invited. Just before we were
rising to depart, the Minister, after having talked much on the hopes
which he cherished, that the friendship of the two nations would long
subsist, pulled a diamond ring from off his own finger, and placed it
on the Envoy’s, saying, “And that I may not be thought to be insincere
in my professions, let me beg of you to accept this as a pledge of my
friendship for you; and I intreat you to wear it for my sake.” This
gift, unlike the generosity of Persian presents, was really handsome;
it was a beautiful stone, perfect in all its parts.
On the 23d we were invited by the _Jemidars_ (Indian officers) of the
Envoy’s guard, to see that part of the ceremony of the _Moharrem_
which was appropriated to the day. We ascended an elevated platform,
surrounded by a great crowd of Persians and Indians, and seated
ourselves on _Nummuds_ prepared for us. On one side was a small
ornamented temple, in which was represented the tomb of the _Imaum_;
and all around it were the Indians who had changed their regimentals
for a variety of fantastical habits, after the fashion of their own
country. As every Indian can turn _fakir_, the greater part had assumed
that character to perform the ceremonial of this feast. Many of them
arose, and made long speeches (for every man has this liberty) on the
death of the _Imaum_, though they intermixed much extraneous matter.
After this a Persian _Mollah_, a young man of a brisk and animated
appearance ascended a temporary pulpit, and commenced a species of
chaunted sermon proper for the day. At the end of every period, he
was answered in chorus by the multitude: and when he was nearly at
the end, and had reached the most pathetic part of his harangue, he
gave the signal for the people to beat their breasts, which they did
accordingly with much seeming sincerity, keeping time to his chanting.
When the _Mollah_ had finished, a high and cumbrous pole was brought
into the scene. It was ornamented with different coloured silks and
feathers, and on the summit were fixed two curious weapons made of
tin, and intended to represent the swords of ALI. This heavy machine
was handled by a man who, having made his obeisance to it (by first
bowing his head, then kissing it) took it up with both his hands, and
then amidst increasing applauses balanced it on his girdle, on his
breast, and on his teeth. Next, on a small temporary stage, appeared
several figures, who acted that part of the tragedy of the history of
the _Imaum_ appointed for the day. It consisted of the death of the two
children of his sister FATME, who, at the close of the performance were
killed by AMEER, one of the officers of YEZID. The actors each held in
their hands their speeches written on paper, which they read with great
action and vociferation, and excited much interest in their audience,
so that many sobbed and wept aloud; and when the ceremonial required
the beating of breasts, many performed that part with a species of
ferocious zeal, which seemed to be jealous of louder intonations from
any breast than their own. In a part of the scene were then introduced
water-carriers, who were emblematical of the thirst of the _Imaum_ at
his dying moments. They bore on their backs bullocks’ skins filled with
water, no inconsiderable weight; but in addition, they each received
five well-grown boys, and under the united burthen walked round a
circle ten feet in diameter, three times consecutively.
On the following night the Envoy and I visited the _Ameen-ed-Doulah_
HAJEE MOHAMED HOSSEIN KHAN. At his house, MIRZA SHEFFEEA, HAJEE MOHAMED
HUSSEIN KHAN MERVEE, FATH ALI KHAN the poet, and other great men were
assembled. The commemoration of the death of HOSSEIN was performing in
his court-yard; and when the _Mollah_ begun to read that part of the
ceremonial appointed for the day, the windows of the room, in which we
were seated, were thrown open, and we all changed our positions, and
sat with our faces towards the _Mollah_. His preaching lasted about
an hour, and was followed by the representation of that part of the
history of HOSSEIN’S death, which succeeded the scene performed on the
preceding evening. First came HOSSEIN’S horse, with his turban on the
saddle. Then, in a row on chairs, were seated YEZID, with three others;
one of whom, dressed in the European habit, represented an European
Embassador, (_Elchee Firing_.) ZAIN LABEDEEN, HOSSEIN’S brother,
chained, and with a triangular wooden collar round his neck, appeared
as a captive before YEZID, and was followed by his sister and children.
YEZID’S executioner treated them with much barbarity, repelling the
women when they implored his protection; and using the captives with
great insult, at the instigation of YEZID. When ZAIN LABEDEEN, by
YEZID’S _firman_, was brought to be beheaded, the _Elchee Firing_
implored his pardon, which instead of appeasing the tyrant, only
produced an order for putting the _Elchee_ himself to death. All this
scene produced great lamentation among the spectators, who seemed to
vie with each other in the excess of their weeping, and in the display
of all the signs of grief. The Prime Minister cried incessantly; the
_Ameen-ed-Dowlah_ covered his face with both his hands, and groaned
aloud; MAHOMED HUSSEIN KHAN MERVEE made at intervals very vociferous
complaints. In some I could perceive real tears stealing down their
cheeks, but in most I suspect that the grief was as much a piece of
acting as the tragedy which excited it. The King himself always cries
at the ceremony; his servants therefore are obliged to imitate him.
When the mob passed the window, at which we were seated, they again
beat their breasts most furiously.
25th. This day was the last of the _Moharrem_, when all those, who had
performed the ceremonies peculiar to this season, appeared before the
King. He was seated in a more elevated chamber, which looked towards
the _Maidan_. A tent had been pitched for the Envoy, who was invited
to attend, but he was too unwell to venture out. The representation of
the day happened, indeed, to be incomplete. A strange circumstance had
occurred at a village near _Teheran_, which so much frightened the
man appointed to personify HOSSEIN before his Majesty, that in fear of
the same fate he absconded. His alarm was natural, for at this village
the man who performed the part of the executioner chose to act to the
letter, what was only intended as a very bloodless representation; and
when HOSSEIN was brought before him to be beheaded, he cut off the
poor actor’s head. For this the King fined him one hundred _tomauns_.
His Majesty was pleased to take much notice of the Indians, whose
ceremonial seemed to affect him much more than the others. Some keep
the _Moharrem_ three days later.
CHAP. XII.
TEHERAN.
GENERAL VIEW OF THE NEGOCIATIONS--TREATIES SIGNED--EXCHANGED--PERSIAN
LETTER TO THE ENVOY--PUNISHMENT OF THEFT--EVE OF THE NOROOZ--PRESENTS
DISTRIBUTED BY THE KING--NOROOZ OF ANCIENT PERSIA--ENTERTAINMENT GIVEN
BY THE KING--ANNUAL PRESENTS--AMUSEMENTS OF THE DAY--RACES--BREED
OF HORSES--THE ZOOMBAREEK ARTILLERY--INTERVIEW WITH THE MINISTERS;
WITH THE KING--KALAAT FROM THE KING--FRENCH TREATY--PUBLICITY OF
PERSIAN DIPLOMACY--GATE OF THE PALACE--DISMISSAL OF THE FRENCH--LETTER
TO THE KING OF ENGLAND--DISPATCHES FROM THE GOVERNOR-GENERAL OF
INDIA--CONDUCT OF THE PERSIAN MINISTERS; OF THE KING--APPOINTMENT AND
HISTORY OF MIRZA ABUL HASSAN, ENVOY EXTRAORDINARY TO ENGLAND.