entertainment which, in one particular only, was more splendid than
those at _Shiraz_. The great court and all the avenues were here
illuminated by a vast number of small lamps, which threw an immense
blaze of light all over the place. A China drum which the _Beglerbeg_
had been keeping for many years till a fit opportunity for the display
should occur, was now brought forwards. It was suspended on high in the
middle of the court. The fire was applied to it, but it emitted thick
vapour with little explosions at intervals; and though a _meschal_
or great torch was at length tried, it only increased the smoke and
stench, and proved too clearly, that the whole was a Chinese fraud,
not unfrequently practised on the purchasers of their drums; a little
gunpowder was placed at the ends indeed, but the centre was stuffed
with old rags. The other fire-works also were generally miserable, in
comparison with those at _Shiraz_. The dinner, (instead of being served
in the usual manner on the ground) was placed on tables framed for the
occasion, and was piled up in enormous heaps. The _Beglerbeg_ had the
further attention to provide us with plates, spoons, knives, and forks,
which were all in like manner made for the day’s entertainment. The
spoons were of silver, and that for the Envoy was of gold.
The report, which we had received on the road, that it was the
intention of the government to detain the Envoy at _Ispahan_, did not
prove without foundation. The _Beglerbeg_ said, “that the Embassador
was to stay at _Ispahan_ to see the country at his leisure, and visit
all the fine buildings of the city.” However, at a private conference
which Sir HARFORD had with him at the _Goush Khonéh_, all this was
changed, so that the _Beglerbeg_ was then more anxious even than
ourselves, that we should proceed to the capital with every possible
expedition. He now urged on the Envoy, promising all his assistance to
enable him to reach _Teheran_, before the commencement of the mourning
of the _Moharrem_; engaging his own mules to convey us from _Ispahan_,
and ordering two relays of one hundred and fifty each at _Kashan_ and
at _Kom_. This anxiety was again seconded by a courier, who had arrived
in two days from _Teheran_, and had brought the answers to the letters
which we had dispatched from _Khonéh Korréh_.
CHAP. X.
ISPAHAN TO TEHERAN.
DEPARTURE FROM ISPAHAN--MOURCHEKOURD--SCENE OF THE VICTORY OF NADIR
SHAH--RUINS--THE BUND KOHROOD--KASHAN--SALT DESERT--KOOM; TOMB--POOL
DALLAUK; ADVENTURE IN THE NIGHT--VIEW OF TEHERAN--APPROACH--ENTRANCE
INTO THE CITY.
On the 7th of February, accordingly we left _Ispahan_; our first day’s
march, from _Goush Khonéh_ to _Gez_, was a distance of ten miles only.
On the right of the road is a village called _Sayin_, which, as we were
told, produces the best melons in the country. The soil, over which we
travelled, was soft and crumbling, and strongly impregnated with salt,
and in parts rendered muddy and swampy by the streams which intersect
it. The weather was lowering on all sides, with a breeze from the
Westward; which here and there in little whirlwinds carried the sand
high up into the air in columns, resembling water-spouts at sea. The
whole plain is covered with ruins, from which only now and then a few
miserable peasants crept out to gape at our passing troops. The dikes,
cut from the banks of the _Zaiande-rood_, irrigate the whole of the
plain, and produce a greater appearance of cultivation than hitherto
we had generally seen. The _caravanserai_ at _Gez_, though falling into
decay, is still handsome, and is built of the same materials, and on
nearly the same grand scale, as that which we had occupied at _Mayar_.
This likewise is the work of the _Seffis_. Similar _caravanserais_ were
constructed at every stage on the road to _Bagdad_; nothing, indeed,
can equal the truly royal establishments which SHAH ABBAS the Great
maintained throughout his dominions for the accommodation of strangers.
8th February. The bearing from _Gez_ to _Mourchekourd_ is N. W. and the
distance by our computation is eighteen miles, which we travelled in
six hours. At about seven miles, we came to a ruined _caravanserai_,
built of the same materials and in the same neat manner as that at
_Gez_. Nearly facing it is a well, to which we descended by a path,
excavated from the surface on an angle of forty-five degrees, and
about fifty yards in length. We saw small fish swimming about in this
well, which appeared to us to be a spring of fine and limpid water.
After having travelled about six miles further, we came to a very
handsome _caravanserai_. We had discovered it immediately on ascending
the summit of a range of hills, over which the road carried us. It is
situated on the right of the road, and, with its bath and reservoirs
on the left, was built by the mother of SHAH ABBAS. The structure has
suffered less, than any other which we have seen, by the injuries of
time and man. It is built of brick on a foundation of the same fine
blue stone, which we had so much admired at _Mayar_. The front is
ornamented with an open brick-work, and with neat Mosaic. The portico
is crowned by a superb dome, and leads into the square court; the sides
of which contain the rooms for travellers. Behind are vaulted stables
with much accommodation. The _hummum_ is useless through decay; but the
reservoir is still in good repair.
From this we proceeded five miles to _Mourchekourd_, and passed over
a part of the plain, on which NADIR SHAH gained his decisive victory
over ASHREFF, the _Affghan_ Chief. The mountains to the Northward were
covered with snow, and still presented a winter to us, although the
weather on the plain was delightfully serene and mild. The soil is
hard, in some places argillaceous. The whole country, which we had
passed in the day’s march, was poor and depopulated, though the ruins
in different parts of the plain, speak that it was once enlivened
and enriched by men. As we approached _Mourchekourd_ we found indeed
cultivation, and the _kanauts_ which produce it.
9th. From _Mourchekourd_ a _caravanserai_ which we were to pass,
bore by our compass N. 15 W. a distance of twelve miles. The road
was good, on an arid plain, bounded by inconsiderable mountains. The
_caravanserai_ itself was another of those structures, which in the
latter part of our route we had so often admired. From this point we
continued for eight miles over rising and falling ground to a second
_caravanserai_ called _Aga Kemal_, but pronounced short without the
_g_, _Aakemal_. Around we saw a little cultivation and a few poplars;
all the rest is desert. On the left, bearing West, is the small
territory of _Joshoogun_, containing the three villages of _Bendai_,
_Khosroabad_, and _Vazvoon_, which we descried at the distance of about
four miles, situated under a red hill at the extremity of the plain.
From _Aga Kemal_ we ascended mountains entirely covered with snow,
which, from its appearance indeed, may remain there throughout the
whole year. The distance to _Kohrood_ was still sixteen miles, which we
travelled by sun-set, having set off at five in the morning. By the
bearings of elevated hills we arranged our whole march to the direction
N. 10 W.
As we descended into the valley of _Kohrood_, which from the depth
of the snow was a work of some trouble, we noticed a pretty little
bubbling stream, which, winding through the vale, watered a succession
of cultivated spots and plantations of apple, pear, poplar, and walnut
trees. The town is built on the side of a mountain. We passed the night
in the _caravanserai_, where our accommodations were indifferent, and
our rest, of which we were in great want, was broken by the incessant
noise and wrangling of our Persian attendants. Several of our horses
had been left on the road from excessive fatigue.
The valley of _Kohrood_ extends in a North-Eastern direction; it is
abundantly watered and wooded beautifully, and every species of fruit
tree thrives there. The fields are disposed in terraces, and each
separate plat of cultivated ground is intersected by small ridges
raised to facilitate irrigation. We had hitherto passed through a
country, to which so much wood and so much cultivation afforded a
very delightful contrast. The Persians, indeed, admit, that there
are few _Kohroods_ in the kingdom, and that in summer its verdure is
incomparable. Our route led through another village in the same valley.
Close to the road is the tomb of one of the inferior saints of Persia,
with a pyramidical roof covered with green-lacquered tiles. As we
passed near it, a little boy, surrounded by a set of his companions,
entreated our compassion by invoking the name of the holy man in the
neighbouring grave. When we had quitted the trees and cultivated
grounds, we continued to wind in the valley which had then narrowed to
a close and sometimes difficult pass. This pass, on a bearing of N. 30
E. is in length about six miles, and is terminated on the left of the
road by a _caravanserai_ called _Gueberabad_. Before we reached it, we
skirted a small artificial lake called the _Bund Kohrood_, the waters
of which are supplied by the river of _Kohrood_, and the melting of the
snows of the adjacent mountains, and are confined on the N. extremity
by a strong wall built across the chasm of the valley. A stream,
however, oozes out from the base, which finally expends itself in the
plain about _Kashan_. _Gueberabad_ is at present a ruined village; in
former days it was peopled, as its name imports, by the _Guebres_.
The _caravanserai_ is one of the good buildings of the age of the
_Seffis_, and by an inscription on the front appears to have been
erected by MEER SAKEE, one of the generals of SHAH ABBAS. Here first
we discovered the plain of _Kashan_, bounded by the distant range of
mountains, of which _Demawend_ formed the most conspicuous and the
highest point. It rises in a very symmetrical cone abruptly from a long
and unbroken range. It is covered with eternal snows, but its height
is more easily deduced from the distance to which it is visible. In
a direct line from the _caravanserai_ of _Gueberabad_, that distance
could not have been less than one hundred and fifty miles; and the
Persians declare that it can be seen even at _Ispahan_ from the minaret
of the _Mesjid Shah_, which is at least two hundred and forty miles
distant. We descended rapidly into the plain towards _Kashan_: here we
were met by a large _istakball_, which accompanied us to the Northern
side of the city with all the noises of Persian rejoicings.[37]
From _Kashan_ we continued along the immense plain; the mountains,
which bind it on the North, just appeared in the lightest blue tints
on the edge of the horizon. From _Kashan_ to our encampment at
_Nusserabad_, we saw on the skirts E. and W. of the plain several
villages, and with them cultivation. On the left of the road were
_Cosac_, _Key_, _Ser_, _Badgoon_, _Rouand_, _Corabad_: on the right,
_Aroun_, _Britgoli_, _Nouchabad_, and _Ali Abad_. We reckoned the
total length of the day’s journey at thirty miles (on a bearing of N.
20 W.) viz. eight to _Gueberabad_, thirteen to _Kashan_, and nine to
_Nusserabad_. In former days the people of _Nusserabad_ were noted
for their idleness and propensity to voluptuousness, so that a fine
gentleman is still called a _Mirza_ of _Nusserabad_.
On the morning of the 11th we quitted our tents two hours before
sun-rise, as we had a march of forty miles before us to _Koom_; the
Persians call the distance fifteen _fursungs_. We continued our route
along the plain in the same course as on the preceding day. On our
left were mountains, and on our right was the plain bounded only by
the horizon, and constituting indeed the commencement of the great
Salt Desert of Persia, which, according to the people of the country,
extends even to the confines of _Usbeck Tartary_. The principal part of
that over which we passed was a soil strongly impregnated with salt,
which, after rain or snow, renders the roads difficult and dangerous.
The weather was favourable during our passage, and we crossed without
any inconvenience (except that of a heavy mud) a part of the plain
dreaded by caravans and travellers in winter journies. We traversed the
plain for ten miles, and then turned N. 30 W. among the mountains. As
we proceeded, we observed their strata disposed in singular directions,
and forming very varied angles with the horizon. Nature, in some
places, amid the stupendous masses of rock which surrounded us, seemed
to have finished her operations by small conical mounds, increasing
by regular gradations as they approached the mother mountain. Every
thing looked as if it were newly created, and only wanted the art and
industry of man to rub off its first rude surface.
At about eleven miles from _Nusserabad_ stands a _caravanserai_ called
_Sin Sin_, erected by the present King. It is a strong but vulgar
building, when compared with the elegant structures of the reign of
SHAH ABBAS. The rude stones and plaster with which it is constructed,
are covered with a coat of white wash, which, at a distance indeed
gives it a magnificent appearance. Near this were the ruins of a
village. Still further, on the right of the road, are more ruins,
which, according to my informer, were those of a town called _Dehnar_.
A second _caravanserai_ of the same materials as that of _Sin Sin_, is
situated at the distance of seven miles. Next is _Passangoor_, which is
merely another _caravanserai_ in the plain, and distant twelve miles;
at three miles distant further is _Langarood_, which is remarkable for
some old pinasters standing about it, and a garden of some extent.
From _Langarood_ to _Koom_ is ten miles more. We reached _Koom_ very
late and had to pass through its extensive ruins when it was quite
dark. The Envoy, who rode in the _takht-e-ravan_, was in some danger in
passing over a bridge, for one of the mules slipping threw him nearly
into the stream.
_Koom_ is esteemed a holy city; it encloses the tombs of many saints,
and among others that of the sister of IMAUM REZA. The present King
made a vow before he ascended the throne, that if he should ever
succeed to the crown he would enrich the city of _Koom_ by buildings,
and exempts its inhabitants from paying tribute. He has fulfilled his
vow, and has built a large _medressé_ or college near the tomb of the
sister of IMAUM REZA, and gives great encouragement to the learned
people who resort to it. He covered the cupola of the tomb itself with
gold plates (instead of the lacquered tiles which he removed), and
he is said to spend one hundred thousand _tomauns_ annually, in the
embellishments of these monuments. The riches of this tomb are said to
be immense, and they are augmented every year by some new donation in
jewelry and precious stones from the King’s wives, and the great men of
the court. The tomb of IMAUM REZA himself is in the city of _Mesched_.
12th. The morning presented to us a dark and threatening atmosphere,
and a country covered with snow. It had fallen in the night to a depth
of six inches. We however proceeded on to _Pool Dallauk_, a distance
of twelve miles; leaving our heavy baggage behind, as the Envoy was
particularly anxious to reach the capital, before the commencement of
the mourning of _Moharrem_. North of _Koom_ there is a small river
called the _Khour-e-Shootur_. The plain was much soaked with the melted
snow; we reached the _caravanserai_ at _Pool Dallauk_ at an early
hour, intending to depart again at ten o’clock at night. This place
derives its name from a barber who repaired the bridge, originally
built by SHAH ABBAS over the river, which runs E. and W. before the
_caravanserai_. The water of this stream, and indeed all the rivulets
here, derive a saltness from the soil through which they pass.
After having refreshed our cattle and ourselves, we made preparations
to depart at ten o’clock. The night was very dark, and our _Mehmandar_
(who had not shewn an inclination to second our desires of proceeding
with all dispatch) now opposed every difficulty which he could devise:
he expatiated on the danger of undertaking the journey by night, and
talked of certain passes on the road, where travellers had been lost
and never more heard of. He was in fact an old man, unaccustomed to
the activity of our proceedings. Yet he was not the only one, who was
disappointed and surprised at the celerity of our movements.
The chiefs of the tent-pitchers and of the muleteers, who had attended
former missions, had passed months on the road, and thus secured a
profit on the pay of their people and their mules, which the shortness
of our engagement greatly reduced. Our journies were compared with
the celebrated marches of their late King AGA MAHOMED KHAN, who
waged so many wars with LOOTF ALI KHAN; but those, who considered it
incompatible with the dignity of a great man to move fast, said that we
were rather _choppers_ (couriers) than Embassadors. Yet the greatest
distance that we ever travelled in one day was forty miles, and we
employed thirty-five days in a journey of about six hundred and fifty
miles, at an average perhaps of nineteen miles a day.
When we were unmoved by his forebodings, our _Mehmandar_ endeavoured
to sooth us into compliance to his wishes, by sending us a variety of
savoury dishes for our dinner, which however only renewed our spirits,
and increased our eagerness to proceed. We accordingly mounted our
horses. The troop had already advanced with much of our baggage. The
Envoy (preceded by two people, who by courtesy were called guides, and
followed by the _Mehmandar_ and the gentlemen of the suite) had not
travelled half a mile from the _caravanserai_, when his conductors
declared that they had lost the road. After long and fruitless
exertion, bewildered more and more by those who had undertaken our
direction, we resolved to return to the _caravanserai_, and to take
a fresh departure. Even this became impracticable, for the town was
not to be found. The _Mehmandar_ then, seemingly in great trouble,
went forward himself to seek the place, and after much delay returned
to us, bringing along with him a poor wretch, whose hands he had tied
behind his back, and to whom he occasionally administered blows. This
was our new conductor, but he was so much frightened, that he could not
proceed, until the Envoy pledged himself, that he should meet with no
harm; but on the contrary should receive a reward of fifteen _tomauns_,
if he led us in safety to _Kinar-a-gird_. We again advanced, and were
again unsuccessful; our new guide was more perverse or more stupid than
his predecessors, and we were once more obliged to return in the hope
of regaining the _caravanserai_. In search of this place we roamed
about four long and melancholy hours, hearing the cries of wanderers,
as we supposed like ourselves, in all parts of the plain. Unfortunately
we had then no compass with us, nor was there a star to be seen that
might direct us. At length however we espied a light, which happily
proceeded from the walls of our _caravanserai_, and guided us again to
it.
We departed again the next morning, and discovered to our surprise that
the road, which to us had been rendered so intricate, led straight
to the opening of the mountains through which we were to pass. It
was impossible therefore to wander from it except purposely, and the
_Mehmandar_ at length acknowledged that he had himself contrived the
delay, and the mortification of the preceding night. The Envoy refused
to speak to him, threatened a complaint to the King, and terrified him
so effectually, that with every oath common to a Persian, he cursed
himself as “an old fool, and a stupid senseless wretch.” The Envoy at
length relented, and assured him that he had nothing to fear. At the
distance of six miles from _Pool Dallauk_, we entered the swamp of
_Kaveer_, which (to its termination at the _caravanserai_ called _Haooz
Sultan_) we crossed in three hours, a length of ten miles. It is part
of the great desert which reaches into _Khorassan_, the soil of which
is composed of a mixture (at least equal) of salt and earth. Though
the road therefore, over which we travelled, is as good as those in
any other direction across the swamp, it is frequently after rains
impassable: as the horses, which in our passage were up to the fetlock,
are up to their bellies in less favourable weather.
At _Haooz Sultan_ we were met by an Officer with a letter from the
King, expressing his thanks for the information communicated to him
by the Envoy, of the defeats which “the _common_ enemy” had received
in Spain, and inviting him to arrive at his capital without delay. We
proceeded, and came to the _Mulluk-al-Moat_, a kind of pass leading
through an extent of broken country, which, forming a labyrinth of
little hills and intricate nooks, has not unfrequently been a real
cause of difficulty to travellers, and to a certain degree embarrassed
us till we reached _Kinar-a-gird_. In the dells were a variety of
streams which were nearly salt. The land itself bears evident marks of
the action of fire. The soap-wort is the most common shrub all over the
face of the country, but no use is made of it. About two _fursungs_
from _Kinar-a-gird_ we crossed a large salt stream, running from W. to
E. and just before it we were greeted by an _istakball_. Our march on
this day was forty miles. We passed the night in a large _caravanserai_
built by the present King at _Kinar-a-gird_; where the _Mehmandar_,
regardless of his late disgrace, again behaved ill, for his servants
were suffered to intrude on the space which had been reserved for us.
From _Kinar-a-gird_ to _Teheran_ is six _fursungs_, which we called
sixteen miles. We continued along the plain for two miles, crossing
numerous channels of water which are carried from the stream by
_Kinar-a-gird_. We then wound among some small hills for four miles,
when the plain of _Teheran_ opened upon us, bounded from E. to W. by a
lofty range of mountains. Clouds generally rest on their summits, and
the snow at this time covered their very roots. On the West and high
above them is the peak of _Demawend_.
_Teheran_, as we descended gradually into the plain, bore N. 25 E. of
us. On the right are the ruins of the ancient city of _Rey_, scattered
in great profusion at the foot of the nearer mountains. The soil of
the plain is salt, and of course very soft, intersected by a great
number of dikes, which being well replenished with water had rendered
the road extremely difficult. As we approached _Teheran_, we were met
by frequent _istakballs_, in the principal of which was NOROOZ KHAN,
one of the King’s relations, and Master of the Ceremonies. The mob
increased greatly as we came to the town walls. At the gate, through
which we passed, were posted files of soldiers of the new corps,
dressed something like Russians and disciplined after the European
manner. We passed through small streets of miserable buildings, and saw
nothing that indicated royalty. At length we dismounted at the house of
HAJEE MAHOMED HOSSEIN KHAN, the second Minister, where we were treated
with chairs and tables, which had been provided by our host. Though it
had been his own residence, and though he had just removed from it to
make room for the Embassy, we found it a mansion far less respectable
than any that we had seen either at _Shiraz_ or _Ispahan_. All the
riches are collected on the throne, and all around is poverty, either
real or affected.
The reception of His Majesty’s Mission, from our entrance into
Persia to our arrival in the capital, was marked with the most ready
attention, and the highest honours from all classes; and our journey
was now closed at _Teheran_ by particular and gratifying distinctions.
[Illustration: _Tæhran._
_Drawn by James Morier Esq^r._
_Published by Mess^{rs}. Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme & Brown,
Paternoster Row, May 1, 1811._]
CHAP. XI.
TEHERAN.
VISIT FROM THE SECOND MINISTER--THE COURT POET--FIRST
CONFERENCE--CEREMONIAL OF THE PUBLIC INTRODUCTION--PRESENTS TO THE
KING BROUGHT BY THE ENVOY--ORDER OF THE PROCESSION--PRESENTATION--THE
KING OF PERSIA--PEACOCK THRONE--THE COURT--THE PALACE--THE
PRIME MINISTER; HIS LEVEE--PERSIAN TRAVELLER--PRESENT TO THE
ENVOY--CEREMONIES OF THE MOHARREM.
It had been decided on the day of our arrival, that the first visit
was to be paid by the owner of the house in which we lodged, HAJEE
MAHOMED HOSSEIN KHAN, _Ameen-ed-Doulah_, or Lord Treasurer: but on
the next day the Minister seemed to make some hesitation in according
the compliment, and said that he rather expected it from the Envoy.
Sir HARFORD JONES, however, immediately obviated the difficulty by
representing that even among the most uncivilized nations the host
pays the first attentions to his guest. When this explanation was
satisfactorily received the Minister came, and with him the King’s
Chief Poet, and some other officers of state.