Palenque. — The Forest. — The Palace or Monastery. — Night
at Palenque. — Brilliancy of the light of the fireflies. —
Pyramidal Mounds and Temples. — Tablet of the Cross. —
Hieroglyphs. — An Indian Statue. — Antiquity of the Buildings. —
The Tower. — Stucco Ornamentation. — Action of the tropical
climate upon the Ruins. — Note upon the decipherment of the
hieroglyphic characters.
It was a bright tropical morning when we mounted our horses and
followed the narrow path leading to Palenque. After riding for a league
through woods, savannahs, and cornfields, we reached and crossed the
river Michol.
As we approached the ruins, the forest was so thick that we were not
able to see anything beyond the track which had been cleared for us by
our men. At a distance of about three Spanish leagues from San Domingo,
we came to the borders of a small running stream. Dr. Coller stopped
and said that at this point we should dismount, as we had arrived at
our destination. We then went up a steep slope, on the summit of which
I could see dimly, the pillars and ruined roof of the “Palace.”
Our Indians met us at the entrance. They had already cleared the
brushwood which had overgrown the quadrangles, and had removed all that
interfered with any exploring work that they thought we might wish
to carry out. The luxuriance of the vegetation was surprising. In one
of the open courts we observed a large plant which we found to be a
species of arum. The leaves were of an extraordinary size, and averaged
four feet six inches long by three feet six inches wide; the stalks
were over seven feet high.
The greater part of the day was occupied in making a survey of the
ground plans of the building, as far as it was possible to trace them
amongst the accumulations of fallen ruins. Upon the completion of this
work, and after having made an examination of the series of small
chambers below the corridors, it became evident that the building
was erected with the intention of establishing a monastery, similar
to those which were described by the historians of the conquest of
Mexico as being dedicated to the use of the priests who worshipped
and performed ceremonies at the shrines of the god Quetzalcoatl, and
who, in addition to those duties, were given the charge of educating
the children of the chiefs. They also trained those youths who were
intended to become priests.
It is to be regretted that this great structure was called by its first
discoverers “The Palace,” and that its purpose was rendered perplexing
by theories connected with the dwellings of Kings or Caciques.
According to the investigations of Mr. Stephens, its extreme dimensions
were two hundred and twenty-eight feet long, by one hundred and eighty
feet wide. The height of the rectangular mound upon which it is placed
has been variously estimated. It appears to have been about twenty
feet high. Upon the summit of this platform was built with stone and
mortar, the various foundations upon which the buildings and galleries
of the monastery were erected. The base upon the east front was about
ten feet high. The height of the building may be estimated to have been
nearly twenty-four feet. Thus it may be concluded that the whole height
from the ground to the roof must have been approximately fifty-four
feet. The architectural proportions seem to have been well designed.
The interior gave me the impression of being Moorish in its style,
especially with respect to the open inner courts, the arrangement
of the corridors and the lavish employment of stucco ornamentation,
brilliantly coloured. A closer investigation into architectural details
left the subject in doubt, but there still remained upon the mind the
feeling that in some unintelligible manner, the construction had been
directed either by foreigners or by Indians who were partly descended
from men of foreign origin. The forms of ancient mosques and of the
inner courts and quadrangles of Arabian or Moorish and Spanish public
buildings were indistinctly recalled to the memory. It was however to
be observed, upon an examination of the methods adopted at Palenque
in supporting the weight of the roofs, that the arches (if it is
permissible for that term to be applied to straight converging slopes
covered with flat coping stones,) are absolutely exceptional and unlike
any other arch that is known. I was reminded, to a certain extent, of
the ruins of Alatri, near Mycenæ on the plains of Argos, and of an
Etruscan tomb near Perugia, but the system employed by the American
architects, in placing the cap or terminal cross stones was essentially
different.
In the exploration of the ruins our attention was chiefly directed
to certain doubtful points, particularly with regard to the chambers
which are beneath the corridors, and are entered from the level of the
courts. There have been several conjectures respecting the purposes
of these cells. I think that it is probable that they were used as
dormitories. In some of the chambers there was a low, wide stone table,
placed against the wall at the end. These benches were large flat
smooth slabs of limestone supported on four stone legs. In height,
shape and dimensions they were like the wooden bedsteads used by the
Indians at the present time.
There is a square tower in one of the inner courts which must be
considered as the most singular structure in Palenque. In position and
manner of construction it is abnormal in character. It was probably
intended for some special object, after the monastery had been
completed. When Captain Del Rio saw this tower, in 1787, he estimated
its height to be sixteen yards. In 1870 there were heaps of rubble
and fallen stones piled against the base, which made it difficult for
me to make exact measurements, but an approximate estimate gave the
sides of the square near the base as twenty-three feet, and the height
about forty-five feet. The peculiarity about the construction is the
fact that it consists of a tower within a tower. The inner structure
contains a steep and narrow staircase. Light is obtained through large
openings in the sides of the outer tower, and then through smaller
openings in the walls of the interior one. The steps appear to have
led up to the top. The walls are formed of rough slabs of limestone
which had been thickly coated over with cement, portions of which
still remained. It was raised to a height which commanded views of the
adjacent temples.
Upon my return to the eastern front, I found that the Indians had
slung the hammocks in the outer corridor overlooking the forest. A
few minutes before sunset we heard the strange and beautiful notes of
a solitary bird singing amongst the ruins. The song resembled in its
tone that of a thrush. Dr. Coller said that the bird was a kind of
nightingale, and that it was only known to live within and around the
Palenque temples. The bird sang in a slow, deliberate manner, each of
the notes having a short interval of time between them. The song was
maintained during the twilight, and ceased as soon as it became dark
and the night had begun. It was an evening hymn to the setting sun.
The hoarse screams and movements of troops of monkeys then disturbed
the precincts. These harsh noises gradually stopped, and as the
night advanced the forest became silent. The moon was up and we knew
that it was shining brightly above the trees, but we could only see
occasionally its faint glimmer. I had expected to hear the croaking of
frogs or the sounds of cicadas, the usual accompaniment to a tropical
evening, but although there was a running stream of water at the foot
of the mound, these familiar sounds were absent.
The brushwood covering the ground was made brilliant by numerous
fireflies. The light which shone from these beetles far exceeded
anything of that nature that I had seen in other regions, and I took
the opportunity of ascertaining the strength of the illuminating power.
I sent one of the men into the wood to catch the largest firefly
that he could find, and then, after having made the corridor dark by
extinguishing our candles, the insect was held about two inches from a
blank page of my note book, Dr. Coller watched the experiment. We found
that the light was steady and shed a soft clear phosphorescent glow
over the paper. The luminous power was sufficient to enable us to read
or write with ease over a surface two inches square. After writing a
few notes upon what had been done during the day we added:—
“Written by the light of a firefly in the Palace, in the ruins
of Palenque, the night of Wednesday, March 10th, 1870, the
candle (firefly) held by Dr. Albert Coller. The light about
equal to that of a small wax candle and very pure. The light
rather greenish.”
“Dr. A. J. COLLER.”
Before turning into my hammock I visited the horses tethered at the
base of the mound near the stream. They were much worried by flies,
mosquitos, and small ticks called garrapátas, which find their way
under the skin and cause great irritation. In the corridor, thirty
feet above them, we were not troubled with any of these pests, but
there were numerous bats. The Indians said that, sometimes, horses were
seriously injured by bats biting them above their hoofs.
In the morning, upon the earliest indications of dawn, the solitary
nightingale again began its song, and the clear staccato, and
singularly musical note was again heard amongst the ruins until
sunrise, when it ceased. Thus this bird sang its song of praise as the
herald of the day.
At sunrise Dr. Coller returned to San Domingo, leaving me alone at
Palenque to carry out the investigation of the mounds and temples, a
work which he thought would be laborious and oppressive. My guides
were however well acquainted with the ruins, and I consequently
knew that I should be spared all unnecessary exertion. But until I
began the exploration I had no idea of the difficulties that had to
be encountered. The men were employed in cutting a path through the
brushwood and it was impracticable to do more than follow a certain
line of direction and obtain ideas of distances by counting the
number of paces or by noting intervals of time. I soon ascertained
that with the means at my disposal it was hopeless to expect to do
more than obtain a general knowledge of the extent and form of the
chief structures, and the positions of the mounds. It was a serious
disappointment to find that it was impossible to make a thorough
examination without the aid of a large number of Indians to cut down
the trees and clear the ground. This would have been a work involving
much time and expenditure and was entirely beyond my power. The forest
was sombre, for the light that penetrated through the trees, was
insufficient. It was however possible to obtain a fair knowledge of the
extent of the space covered by the mounds, and their distances from the
monastery. The ground plan of the inclosure could also be approximately
understood.
The first and, with respect to its altar, the most important building
that I saw, was that known by the name of the Temple of the Cross.
Before ascending the sides of the mound upon which it stands, I
examined the formation of an ancient causeway which covered, for some
distance, the stream near its base. I traced it for about one hundred
and fifty yards. A small portion was sufficiently preserved to enable
the system of construction to be ascertained. It appears to have been
intended for the purpose of confining the rivulet that ran beneath it,
and thus to secure a dry roadway, or crossing, during the rainy season.
It was stated by the Indians, that there still existed, in the forest,
the remains of a stone bridge. As far as I could understand their
description, it appeared that in shape it was not unlike the ancient
Chinese bridges, and rose to the centre by steep gradients.
After finishing the measurements of the causeway we began to ascend
the mound. About halfway up the slope, the men stopped and pointed to
a place where, lying with its face on the ground, was the stone of
the cross. As this tablet had been the subject of much investigation,
and is undoubtedly, with respect to its meaning, the most remarkable
monument at Palenque, I was anxious to examine it with the utmost care.
I directed the Indians to turn it over and thoroughly clean it from
moss and dirt, so as to enable me to make a sketch of it. I found that,
in consequence of the action of the earth upon the face of the stone,
parts of the sculpture were difficult to trace, but the central figures
were quite distinct. I was able to make a satisfactory outline,
chiefly confining my attention to the cross, the bird surmounting it,
and the dress of the man, having in his hands what seemed to be a
child, which he was presenting as a votive offering.
The bird, with its long double tail feathers, was probably the
representation of the Quetzal, the sacred bird of the Quichés, and
thus it may be assumed that the temple in which this tablet formed the
centre of the altar-piece, was dedicated to the worship of the god
Quetzalcoatl. But, judging by the peculiarities of the dress worn by
the principal worshipper, I formed the opinion that he was not, as has
previously been supposed, a priest offering sacrifice. The worshippers
and the offerings have, I believe, other significations.[81]
The temple, placed upon the top of the mound, must have been—when it
was externally perfect—a graceful and well proportioned shrine; but
when I saw it, the outer walls were so enveloped in brushwood and
enclosed by trees, that it was not practicable to do more than obtain
a conception of its proportions. After having measured the length,
breadth and height, and made a ground plan, I examined the interior.
A corridor ran along the front; within was the chamber which had
contained the inscribed stone slabs which formed the back of the altar,
in the centre of which had been the figure of the cross. This, and the
right and left hand tablets, had been all closely joined together so
as to form one subject,[82] the meaning of which was probably explained
by the hieroglyphic characters. The right hand tablet, which had been
removed, I had already seen at the museum in Washington.
After leaving this sanctuary, we descended the southern slope until
we reached the base, and then began to ascend the adjoining mound, on
whose summit was another temple. Thus we proceeded until we reached a
singular little structure which has been considered to be exceptional,
from the fact that the figure upon the altar had been placed upon a
base supported by what are supposed to have been two tigers. I could
only trace the remains of the feet, as everything within and without
the temple was in ruins. Following the direction of the quadrangular
precincts, we finally crossed over an unusually lofty mound, and then
arrived at the back or western face of the monastery.
We had completed a slight survey of the mounds and temples on the sides
of the inclosure, having passed successively over them and examined the
altars, as far as their more or less ruined state permitted. These all
varied in their dimensions, but they were evidently built for analagous
purposes as shrines for the worship of the Indian gods.[83] There was,
however, one important exception which requires to be noticed.
At the south-west angle of the monastery—and connected with it in such
a manner that it seems to have been an adjunct to the main building—are
the ruins of a structure which has been considered to have been a
temple, but which, I think, served for a different purpose. It stands
upon a mound about forty-five feet high. Its frontage was found to be
longer than that of any of the other temples. In the interior there
was no altar, but the upright slabs of stone placed upon the inner
wall were covered with hieroglyphs. When the Indians, who accompanied
Mr. Stephens, saw these groups of characters they declared that the
building was an escuela or schoolhouse. Other opinions were also given,
but the subject has not received any investigation. I think it is
probable that the opinion of the Indians was correct, and that it was
here that the boys were taught the meaning of the hieroglyphic symbols,
and were thus able to read and interpret the signs placed upon the
idols and altars.
In the afternoon we re-entered the monastery. We had been for nearly
seven hours occupied in crossing over the mounds and clearing a path
through the forest, and yet at no time did I estimate that we were more
than five hundred yards from our starting point. At the end of this
part of the day’s work, I found that I was able to establish some
deductions respecting the positions and heights of the raised platforms
and the character of the stone edifices.
It may be concluded that Palenque consists of a group of mounds having
buildings upon them exclusively devoted to the purposes of religion.
In the year 1840, five of the mounds had temples upon their summits
which were in a fair state of preservation. The survey of Captain
Antonio Del Rio was made in the year 1787, and, as he was an officer
of the Artillery, his Report, with respect to the general plan, and
the bearings and distances of the mounds then remaining, may be
accepted as being correct. He states that he visited the ruins called
Casas de Piedras (stone houses) on the 5th of May, and finding that
nothing could be distinctly made out in consequence of the forest,
he engaged a large number of Indians from Tumbalá, who felled the
trees and afterwards cleared the ground by fire, thus opening up a
sufficient space to enable him to observe the true positions of the
mounds and buildings. He found that they were all contained within a
rectangular area, four hundred and fifty yards long and three hundred
yards wide. In the centre was the mound upon which stood the largest
structure. This was surrounded by other edifices, “namely: five to the
northward, four to the southward, one to the south-west, and three to
the eastward.”
Thus it appears that in 1787 there were thirteen mounds with buildings
upon their summits, besides the large platform earthwork upon which
was placed the “Palace.” In 1806, nearly twenty years afterwards, the
Spanish Government ordered another survey to be made. The expedition
was placed under the orders of Captain Dupaix, who had served as
an officer in the Dragoons. He reported that, at that time, eleven
temples were still standing. Thirty-four years later, Mr. Stephens
could only discover five temples not utterly ruined. It is strange that
in these short intervals of time, such changes should have happened
amongst monuments of this nature. With regard to this subject, it is
of consequence to notice the statements given by the local authorities
who made the original discoveries which led to the survey of Del Rio.
The explorations were conducted, under the orders of the Spanish
authorities at Guatemala, by one of the principal inhabitants of
the village of San Domingo, named Calderon, aided by the Government
architect, Bernasconi. In their Report, which was made only three years
before that of Del Rio, they declared that there were evidences of the
ruins of numerous houses occupying a large space of land to the west
of the temples. Nothing was known by my Indians upon this subject. It
should, however, be observed, with respect to undiscovered ruins, that
any rumours relating to what may, or may not, exist in the heart of a
tropical forest, must necessarily be doubtful, for where nothing can be
seen, except what may happen to be found in the direction of the path,
much must be unknown.
On the slopes of the ground in front of one of the temples I saw a
large and rudely carved statue, which in consequence of its form
and manner of sculpture is of much importance. There is reason to
believe that it was intended to represent Quetzalcoatl, an Indian god,
a mythical or real personage, who, for many reasons connected with
Palenque, requires to have an especial consideration given to him. It
is a distinctive characteristic of this statue, that the features are
essentially different from those of the Indians whose figures are to be
seen upon the altars of the temples and within the courts and corridors
of the monastery. These have receding foreheads and sharply defined
prominent faces, quite unlike the present races in Central America, but
in a marked degree resembling the tribes of the North American Indians,
who had the custom of flattening the heads of their children.
The statue by my measurement, was a few inches more than eight feet in
height, exclusive of the lower part of the stone, which tapered off in
such a manner as to show that it had been originally placed upright and
fixed in the ground. The feet stood on a base upon which was carved the
hieroglyph which probably denoted the name. The forehead was low and
straight. The face was completely different in type and expression,
from that of any known race of Indians. The head was surmounted by a
kind of high tiara. The left hand held in front of the figure a small
head, in the same position as in the little figure at Ocosingo.
As, after completing the circuit of the mounds, there were still a few
hours at my disposal before leaving Palenque so as to reach the village
before nightfall, I decided to devote the time to the investigation of
certain problems regarding the age and construction of the buildings.
But in the first place, attention should be directed to the manner in
which the open courts within the monastery are disposed, and access is
obtained to the rooms beneath the corridors. Commencing from the east
front, there are two ranges of corridors which are separated throughout
their whole length by a strong wall, which receives the thrust of the
two inner slopes supporting the roof. There is only one entrance or
means of communication between them in the existing northern portion
of the ruins. The interior width of each of these galleries is about
seven feet four inches. After passing across them, the principal court
is reached and the floor of the open space is seen ten feet below.
A wide flight of large and well hewn stone steps leads down to the
bottom, which appears to have been paved with several layers of cement.
This court is twenty-eight paces wide. The rooms are entered through
doorways in the sides of the inclosing walls. Opposite to the first
flight of steps there are similar steps leading to a second series of
corridors. Passing through these, another court is reached, and beyond
is the outer gallery which runs along the western side of the building.
The total width of this cross section of the monastery is approximately
one hundred and seventy-six feet.
[Illustration]
When wandering amongst these courts, and looking at the vestiges of
an unknown state of civilisation, I endeavoured to form conclusions
with regard to the purpose and antiquity of all that was seen. The
problem is difficult to solve. It has been surmised that the temples
of Palenque were erected during a period not exceeding four centuries
before the Spanish conquest. This opinion was based upon what has been
observed with respect to the condition of the ruins, and the freshness
of portions of the colouring of the stucco. This method of estimating
comparative antiquity presents some local difficulties.
The square tower was originally faced with thick cement, and then
covered with washes of colour, in the same manner as the walls of the
Teocallis in the Quiché city of Utatlan upon which the faded colours
are still visible. If the existing outer coating was the only one that
had been given it would be reasonable to infer that the age of the
tower was not great. But it happens that in those places where portions
of the stucco have fallen, there have been numerous applications
of colour, and therefore admitting that the latest may look bright
and fresh, it is not possible to estimate the periods that may have
elapsed between the dates of successive layers. Although I was at first
inclined to think that the building could not be ancient, yet a more
careful examination left the subject indeterminate. Any conclusions
which may have been thought probable on account of the state of the
walls and roofs are equally uncertain. With regard to this matter it is
necessary to take into consideration certain existing conditions.
Immediately behind the ruins are the slopes of the sierras which
I traversed on the way from Tumbalá. They are covered with loose
fragments of the limestones of which they are formed. These were the
building materials used by the architects of the temples. Their small
size and flat surface were suitable for the purpose, when combined with
mortar, the mixing of which the Indians well understood. The walls of
the monastery were made with layers of these flat stones bound together
with quantities of this mortar. The outer faces were carefully arranged
to receive a thick casing of cement, which was so hard and sound, that
it is evident the builders must have had an accurate knowledge of the
best proportions of the substances required for its composition. The
cement had a smooth surface and in several places it was still perfect.
The colours laid upon it are red, blue, yellow and white. They appear
to have been made more or less vivid and varied in accordance with what
was thought necessary to obtain good contrasts. The stucco figures and
scrolls were skilfully designed, and were coloured in a manner which
was harmonious and effective. The sound state of the cement where
it is sheltered from the action of the rain is extraordinary. It is
strange that in this tropical climate where, for half the year there
are continuous and heavy rainfalls, the variations from the damp, close
atmosphere in the summer to the dry season of winter should not have
had a more destructive influence upon buildings, mainly composed of
rubble and mortar.
In one instance, that of the tower, the astonishing growth of tropical
vegetation has had the effect of preventing its fall. Thick creepers
have wound themselves like strong ropes around the walls and bound
them firmly together. The walls at the corners of the entrances to the
courts were remarkably uninjured. The cement was intact, and this, even
in positions where it might have been expected that, in a long course
of time, in consequence of being partly exposed and partly sheltered,
it would have broken away and fallen.
It would be justifiable to conclude from these evidences of stability
that the buildings are comparatively modern. But there is a difficulty
with regard to this assumption which has to be considered. In the
year 1525, when Cortes on his march from Mexico to Honduras passed
with his expeditionary forces within a few leagues of this place, the
temples had been already abandoned. Consequently not less than four
centuries must have now elapsed since Palenque was deserted. If then,
within the tropics, buildings made of such perishable materials have
remained for that long period in a fair state of preservation, it may
be inferred that there are some local circumstances which have caused
an exceptional power of resistance to the disintegrating action of the
climate. The forest may have afforded some protection, and therefore
the age of the monastery may be greater than might be estimated from
the condition of the ruins.
There are, however, other facts which are opposed to any theories
of great antiquity. The Indians had cleared, for my inspection, the
stone steps leading from the western side of the principal court.
Upon these were carved groups of hieroglyphs which were in an almost
perfect state. The edges of the steps were unworn. It was therefore
made evident that in an open court, completely exposed to the weather
and the influence of the tropical rains, inscriptions graven upon the
surface of these flat stone slabs had remained uninjured.
After looking at the sculptures, and the coloured stucco figures which
adorned the piers and inner walls, I endeavoured to establish some
standard of comparison by which I might be able to form well-founded
conjectures regarding their age. I thought of various ruins in Egypt
and Asia Minor, then of those belonging to later periods in Italy
and Great Britain, but there were such essential differences in the
materials used, and the influences of the atmosphere, that it was not
possible to establish any assured conclusions. Opinions formed upon
the results of an examination of the temples on the mounds would
be equally unsatisfactory, for some of them, especially in their
interiors, were in a comparatively good condition, others were in
ruins. But, there are proofs of a moderate antiquity. The lintels
that once supported the walls over the doorways and other openings
have completely disappeared. In only one instance, which came under
my notice, were there any signs of the thick, hard beams of zapote
wood which had been employed for that purpose. A broad lintel in the
monastery had left its impress upon the under surface of the wall which
had weighed downwards upon it. The marks of the fibre and the shape
of the lintel were clearly defined upon the mortar. Dr. Coller found
amongst the ruins a piece of this wood. It was exceedingly heavy and
close-grained, and was of the nature of what is known, in the East
Indies, by the name of iron wood. The zapote trees grow chiefly in the
forests in the valley of the Usamacinta and towards the lake of Peten.
When the evening drew near, I called my Indians together and entered
the forest on the way back to the village. As I rode slowly forward
I felt that these mysterious ruins contained a secret which has yet
to be unravelled. The priests of a powerful race, having strange and
unknown forms of religion, had been for centuries worshipping at these
shrines. Within the sanctuaries were graven upon tablets of stone those
records which, when interpreted, may throw some light upon what is now
obscure.[84]