were grey with time and tottering with decay when, but yesterday, they
saw us spring into being, laugh at our sometime boast of Antiquity;
and well they may, for it is hardly as well substantiated as that of
the simple boy who conceived himself the oldest person in the world,
because he could not remember when he was born. Yet even we, in the
New World, we, of its second or third generation, whose fathers were
present at its birth and baptism, even _we_ begin to talk gravely of
the olden time, and to sigh and look sad over the melancholy grandeur
of the past!
[Illustration: New Orleans in 1728]
Well, be it so. In these stirring times, an age is shorter, and sooner
achieved, than in those of "the sluggish eld." Time is measured by
events, and not by revolutions of the sun--by the progress of the
mind, not by the slow sifting sands of the hour glass, and the amazing
precocity of these latter days makes many ages out of a single
century.
But what a vandal spirit is innovation! what a ruthless destroyer is
this boasted modern improvement! It sweeps over the land with the
energy of a new creation, demolishing and scattering whatever lies in
its way, for the mere pleasure of reproducing it in a new and better
form. It removes the ancient land marks, obliterates the last traces
of ancient power and grandeur, levels mountains, fills up valleys,
turns the courses of rivers, and makes all things bend to its iron
will.
It works such rapid and magical changes in its headlong career, that
few of us are able to point out what _has been_, or to predict with
certainty what _will be_ to morrow. Let us cherish then, with deeper
veneration, the few relics that remain of the days of our fathers. Let
us reverence Antiquity such as it is. Let the street commissioner, and
the _improver_ of old estates--
Spare that ancient house,
Touch not a single brick--
It is almost alone in its sombre dignity, in the midst of younger and
gayer edifices, that have swept New Orleans _as it was_, into the
shade of oblivion. Antiquity--I mean, if I may be allowed the Irish
figure of speech--modern Antiquity, her countenance grave with sorrow,
with here and there a furrow upon her yet ample brow, protests against
the desecration of all that _was_ dear and sacred. Standing on the
verge of annihilation, with "one foot in the grave," and conscious
that her days are numbered, her dissolution nigh at hand, she
commands, she implores us to save one memento of the past, one legible
souvenir of "the days of auld lang syne." And here it is.
[Illustration]
THE OLD SPANISH BUILDING
At the corner of Royal and St. Anne streets, is delineated in the
above engraving as it now stands--and long may it remain as a memorial
of other times.
Thirty years ago--which, comparatively would take us back three
centuries in any European city--thirty years ago, one might have seen
from that spot, then the centre of the city, long perspective
street-scenes of a similar character. INNOVATION has now done her
work--has absolutely trodden the city of the last century under her
feet.
The Casa Blanca, at the corner of Bienville and Old Levee Streets, has
also escaped the general demolition. It was once the courtly residence
of Bienville, the first governor of Louisiana--the seat of power, and
the centre of wealth, beauty and fashion in the province. It is still
on its old foundation, standing "alone in its glory," and the spirit
of innovation has so far respected its ancient uses, that it is still
a treasury of wealth, and a conservatory of the _sweetness_ of our
favored clime--a store house of sugar and molasses!
[Illustration: Environs of New Orleans]
EXCURSIONS
In consequence of the level surface of the country in the environs of
New Orleans, a great variety of scenery cannot be expected--yet, on
the northern shore of lake Pontchartrain, the ground is somewhat
higher and rolling, and affords very pleasant positions. Although not
formed like the prolific north and west, in hill and dale, cliffs and
cascades, alternately varying and beautifying the landscape, yet there
are charming rides and rambles in the neighborhood of this city, of
which a more minute account will be given under their respective
heads, which follow.
CARROLTON, a distance of six miles by the rail-road, is an exceedingly
pleasant resort. The line, for nearly a third of the way, passes
through the suburbs of the city, and is dotted on either side with
beautiful residences--the remainder passes through cultivated fields,
pleasant pastures, and delightful wood-lands. The road, like the
country, is perfectly level, and kept in the finest condition. At the
end of the route is situated the village; which is principally
composed of tastefully built cottages, constructed in every variety
of architecture that suited the individual fancy of the owner.
Opposite the rail-road depot, is one of the handsomest and most
extensive public gardens, that is to be found in the vicinity of New
Orleans. A race course is near by; and the strolls around are quite
cheering to those who fly from the turmoil and dust of the metropolis.
THE SHELL ROAD of the Canal and Banking Company, affords an agreeable
ride to lake Pontchartrain, also a distance of six miles. The highway
runs on the margin of the canal, and is not excelled by any road in
the United States. It is the great resort for every species of
pleasure vehicle that the city furnishes; and here may be seen, on an
afternoon, all grades of society, from the gay sportsman, mounted on
his fast trotter, to the sober citizen, who sallies forth on his
ambling poney, all of whom appear to realize an equal share of
enjoyment. A line of comfortably arranged barges also ply on the canal
from the lake, at which place a convenient hotel is established. Half
way on this road, between the city and the lake, is the highly
celebrated Metairie race track.
THE PONTCHARTRAIN RAIL-ROAD, runs to the lake from which it derives
its name, from the head of Elysian Fields street, a distance of five
miles. It is a very pretty ride. This route communicates with the
great northern mail line, which goes by the way of Mobile--and all the
steamboats, that traverse the lakes to the various villages and
landings that surround it, make this their general starting point.
From here, a passage is obtained to Biloxi, which, the reader will
recollect, was the first spot settled by the French in this portion of
the world; and, from that circumstance, will naturally excite the
curiosity of the intelligent wayfarer. At the termination of this
rail-road is a first-rate hotel for the accommodation of visitors.
Here is good bathing, fishing and shooting; and, beneath the shade of
the trees, the breeze from the water is delightfully refreshing.
THE MEXICAN GULF RAIL-ROAD, runs from Elysian Fields street, on Good
Children street, towards Lake Borgne. There are twenty eight miles of
this road now in operation. When finished, it will afford considerable
facilities to commerce, besides great benefit to the citizens,
conveying them, in about one and a half hours, to the refreshing
breeze of the ocean--where fish, oysters and game may be found in
abundance. No doubt it will compete with the most favored watering
places of Bay St. Louis, Pass Christian, Biloxi, &c. It will also be a
great accommodation to the planters in the neighborhood--who already,
so far as it goes, have given it good encouragement. This road has
recently been purchased of the State, by A. Gordon and Co., who,
availing themselves of about 22 miles of the Nashville rail-road
iron, are bringing this work to a rapid completion.
THE ROAD OF BAYOU ST. JOHN, which follows the sinuosities of that
stream, and reaches lake Pontchartrain at the site of the old fort St.
John, after travelling the distance of about six miles, presents a
very pleasant drive. Returning by the new Shell road before mentioned,
it varies the route without adding much to the distance.
MACDONOUGH stands on the banks of the river opposite to New Orleans;
and the crossing, in the hottest weather, is generally accompanied by
a slight breeze, rendered cool and pleasant by the mighty current of
the river, which comes from the icy springs of the Alleghanies and the
Rocky mountains. The village, of itself, possesses no great
beauty--but the country, the beautiful country is all around--and the
noise and confusion of the city no longer annoy you. The great
attraction at this spot is in visiting the United States marine
hospital, one of the handsomest structures in Louisiana, which stands
a little above.
ALGIERS adjoins, and seems a part of Macdonough. This is the great
work-shop of New Orleans, for the building and repairing of vessels.
It has its dry docks, and other facilities for the most extensive
operations. In business times, it presents a scene of activity that is
seldom observed in any other part of these regions, and reminds one
of the bustling and enterprise of the North. The period has been when
Algiers prescribed the law, _vi et armis_, to the city itself--but the
day and the disposition, have happily long since passed away.
GRETNA, on the same shore, is nearly two miles further up the river,
and stands opposite Lafayette. The whole distance is spotted with
comfortable residences, principally inhabited by the owners of the
adjoining grounds, and the walk from Algiers to this village is very
gratifying to one partial to such exercise. There is a steamboat
constantly plying from here to the city, which affords a desirable
excursion of nearly three miles, touching at Lafayette in its passage
each way. The village has a rural appearance, is regularly laid out,
and exhibits some neat tenements. The forest approaches quite near;
and, the idea that one may so easily lose himself in the neighboring
woods, gives to the place a touch of romance which only the denizens
of a crowded city know how to appreciate. From the great number of
cattle observed along the shore, it would seem as if there was no
necessity of diluting the milk for the New Orleans market, unless the
milkmen be tea-total temperance men, and take this method to introduce
the inhabitants gradually to a taste for water.
THE RACE COURSES. There are three of these in the vicinity of this
city. The _Louisiana_, near lake Pontchartrain; the _Metairie_, near
the Shell road; and the one at Carrolton. These are as well patronised
as any in the country, and, in the racing season, the inhabitants of
the neighboring states, from a great distance, flock hither to
participate in the sports of the turf. Much praise has been bestowed
upon the arrangements on these occasions. Even here, as in many other
countries, the ladies, by their presence, have given them countenance
and encouragement--and the course usually is "gemmed by the rich
beauty of the sunny south."
THE BATTLE GROUND, (formerly known as "the Plains of Chalmette,") the
very naming of which causes the bosom of an American to swell with
patriotic pride, lies five miles below the city. It may be approached
either by the Grand Gulf rail-road, or by a good highway along the
levee, the new Convent and United States barracks being within full
view. But first it may be necessary to look briefly at the historical
facts which give celebrity to the spot.
Early in December, 1814, the British approached New Orleans, about
8000 strong, by the way of the lakes Borgne and Pontchartrain. Their
passage into the lake was opposed by a squadron of gun-boats under
Lieut. Jones. After a spirited conflict, in which the killed (500)
and the wounded of the enemy exceeded the whole American force, he
was compelled to surrender to superior numbers.
On the 21st of Dec. four thousand militia arrived from Kentucky and
Tennessee, under General Jackson. On the 22nd, the enemy having
previously landed, took a position near the Mississippi, eight miles
below the city. On the evening of the 23d, the Americans made a
furious attack upon their camp, and threw them into disorder, with
five hundred of their men killed. The enemy rallied; and Gen. Jackson
withdrew his troops, and fortified a strong position six miles below
the city, supported by batteries on the west side of the river. Here
he was unsuccessfully assailed on the 28th of Dec. and 1st of Jan.,
the enemy losing two hundred to three hundred men. In the mean time
both armies received reinforcements.
The decisive battle was fought on the 8th day of Jan. 1815. The
American right was on the river, running in a right angle to the wood.
A redoubt was raised (which is still visible) strengthened by bales of
cotton along the whole line. The enemy were about a half mile lower
down, on a parallel line, their head quarters resting on the river,
near three large oaks which still mark the spot. The scene is
distinct, and this is _the battle ground_.
The British commenced the assault at day light. As they approached
the works, sixty deep, many were killed by grape shot; but, when they
came within musket range, a destructive stream of fire burst forth
from the American lines. Our troops were placed in two ranks, the rear
loading while the front fired, thus pouring an incessant peal--which,
from Kentucky and Tennessee riflemen, was most deadly. While leading
on the troops of the enemy, Gen. Pakenham, the chief in command, was
killed; Gen. Gibbs, the second in command, was wounded mortally; and
Gen. Keene severely. Without officers to direct them, the troops
halted, fell back, and soon fled in confusion to their camp. In a
little over an hour, two thousand out of eight thousand veterans lay
dead upon the field, while the Americans had but seven killed and six
wounded--a disproportion unparalleled in the history of warfare. Gen.
Lambert, upon whom the command then devolved, after one more
unsuccessful attempt to assault, availed himself of a truce of
twenty-four hours to bury the dead, made good his retreat--which Gen.
Jackson felt no disposition to molest, as he was resolved to hazard
none of his advantages. Thus was New Orleans saved from the hands of
an invading enemy whose War cry was--"Beauty and Booty."
The British lost during the month they were in Louisiana, more than
three thousand three hundred and fifty in killed, while the loss of
the Americans was not two hundred. The wounded of the enemy must have
been much less, on account of the sure aim of the backwoodsmen. The
greater portion of our army were plain honest farmers--who knew
nothing of battle--they heard that their country was in danger--the
country which gave a home to them, and their children, and they flew
to its defence,--drove the invaders from their shores, and then
returned to their homes to till the ground.
It is not a matter of surprise--though the battle is without a
parallel in the history of the world--that even "invincibles," were so
dreadfully routed by undisciplined backwoodsmen defending their native
soil, with their wives and children behind them.
A jaunt to these grounds is a sort of pilgrimage, that no stranger
will, that no citizen can neglect. Not to have seen the field of this
great victory, would be a reflection upon the taste, not to say the
patriotism of any who should visit our city. The ground it is true,
presents few memorials to remind the patriotic visitor of the deadly
strife. There is no proud monument, towering to the sky, to mark the
place where the great victory was won. But he beholds the consequences
wherever he turns his eye, and he feels them--deeply feels them in
every throb of his heart. Those born upon the soil, and those who
participated in the struggle, have reason to be proud of the spot,
and to cherish the memory of that eventful day. If there is no lofty
structure of granite or marble, to perpetuate the glorious
achievement, it has a holier, a more enduring memorial in the heart of
every true American, which thrills with lofty pride at every allusion
to it, as did the ancient Greek at the name of Marathon, or the
Spartan at that of Thermopylae.
TRAVELLING ROUTES
The facilities which this metropolis affords for reaching any
accessible portion of the world, particularly all sections of the
union, are not excelled. Steam and sailing ships of the first class,
hold commercial intercourse with almost every nation. Steamboats, with
accommodations equal to the best regulated hotels, are plying through
every river and bayou. Four to five thousand miles can be achieved, in
those floating palaces, with perfect ease, and comparative safety.
The principal routes between the north and the south are here given,
as also the intermediate places, together with those inland most
frequented by the traveller and the man of business, and the distances
carefully noted as they diverge, in their various directions. Beside
the four annexed routes to New York, there are several that lead to
favorite watering places, and other points attractive to travellers of
leisure, which it would be quite impracticable to lay down in a work
of this kind. They can always obtain information of these resorts,
from intelligent companions on the road, that will prevent their
deviating much from the point they wish to attain. The distances on
the river have been corrected agreeably to the latest survey. The
other routes conform to the most approved authorities; and,
frequently, have been corrected by personal observation, with the
utmost care and attention.
ROUTE 1.--_From New Orleans to New York, via Pittsburgh, Pa., by
Steamboat._
Miles.
New Orleans to Carrolton, 6 |
Red Church, 20 | 26
Bonne Carre Church, 16 | 42
Jefferson College, 22 | 64
Donaldsonsville, 19 | 83
Louisiana Institute, 12 | 95
St. Gabriel Church, 12 | 107
Plaquemine, 10 | 117
Baton Rouge, 23 | 140
Port Hudson, 25 | 165
Bayou Sara, 11 | 176
Tunica Bend, 27 | 203
Red River, cut off, 33 | 236
Fort Adams, Miss., 11 | 247
Homo Chitta River, Miss., 10 | 257
Ellise Cliffs, Miss., 26 | 283
Natchez, Miss., 18 | 301
Rodney, Miss., 31 | 332
Bruinsburg, Miss., 12 | 344
Grand Gulf, (big black) Miss., 10 | 354
Carthage, Miss., 25 | 379
Warrenton, Miss., 19 | 398
Vicksburg, Miss., 10 | 408
Old River, (Yazoo,) Miss., 12 | 420
Tompkins' Bend, 46 | 466
Providence, La., 15 | 481
Bunch Bend, 19 | 500
Princeton, Miss., 10 | 510
Columbia, Ark., 45 | 555
Bolivar, Miss., 53 | 608
Napoleon, (Arkansas,) 12 | 620
Victoria, 20 | 640
Delta, 66 | 706
Helena, 10 | 716
Sterling, 10 | 726
Peyton, Miss., 12 | 738
Commerce, 33 | 771
Buck Island, 6 | 777
Memphis, Tenn., 21 | 798
Devil's Race Ground, 34 | 832
Randolph, Tenn., 33 | 865
Fulton, Tenn., 11 | 876
Plumb Point, 10 | 886
Ashport, 12 | 898
Needham's Cut-off, 8 | 906
Walker's Bend, 31 | 937
Riddel's Point, 18 | 955
New Madrid, Mo., 10 | 965
Mills' Point, 42 | 1007
Columbus, K., 15 | 1022
Cairo, (Mo'th Ohio R'r.) Il., 18 | 1040
Trinity, 6 | 1046
America, Il., 5 | 1051
Caledonia, Il., 3 | 1054
Fort Massac, Il., 23 | 1077
Paducah, (M. Tenn R'r) K., 8 | 1085
Smithfield, (M. Cum'd) K., 1 | 1097
Golconda, Il., 18 | 1115
Tower Rock, 15 | 1130
Cave in the Rock, 5 | 1135
Battery Rock, 9 | 1144
Shawneetown, Il., 12 | 1156
Raleigh, K., 6 | 1162
Wabash River, 6 | 1168
Carthage, K., 7 | 1175
Mount Vernon, Ia., 13 | 1188
Henderson, K., 28 | 1216
Evanville, Ia., 12 | 1228
Owensboro, K., 36 | 1264
Rockport, 12 | 1276
Troy, Ia., 16 | 1292
Cloverport, 21 | 1313
Stephensport, K., and Rome, Ia., 10 | 1323
Fredonia, 34 | 1357
Leavenworth, 2 | 1359
Mauckport, Ia., 14 | 1373
Brandenburg, 3 | 1376
West Point, K., 18 | 1394
Portland, K., and New Albany, Ia., 20 | 1414
Shippingport, 1 | 1415
Louisville, K., 3 | 1418
Jeffersonville, Ia., 1 | 1419
Westport, K., 19 | 1438
Bethlehem, 6 | 1444
New London, 6 | 1450
Madison, Ia., 7 | 1457
Port William, K., 14 | 1471
Vevay, Ia., and Ghent K., 8 | 1479
Warsaw, K., 11 | 1490
Rising Sun, Ia., 20 | 1510
Bellevue, 2 | 1512
Petersburg, 7 | 1519
Aurora, 2 | 1521
Lawrenceburg, 3 | 1524
North Bend, 7 | 1531
Cincinnati, O., and Covington and Newport, K., 17 | 1548
Columbia, 8 | 1556
Richmond, 13 | 1569
Point Pleasant, 4 | 1573
Macon, 4 | 1577
Neville, 3 | 1580
Mechanicsburg, O., 3 | 1583
Augusta, 7 | 1590
Levana, O., and Dover, K., 2 | 1592
Ripley, O., 3 | 1595
Charleston, K., 5 | 1600
Maysville, K., and Aberdeen, O., 7 | 1607
Manchester, O., 11 | 1618
Vanceburg, K., 16 | 1634
Alexandria, 18 | 1652
Portsmouth, O., 2 | 1654
Concord, O., 8 | 1662
Greenupsburg, K., 13 | 1674
Burlington, O., 23 | 1697
Guyandot, Va., 7 | 1704
Galliopolis, O., 35 | 1739
Point Pleasant, 3 | 1742
Letart's Rapids, 30 | 1772
Belleville, Va., 28 | 1800
Troy, O., 5 | 1805
Belpie and Blennerhassett's Island, 12 | 1817
Parkersburg, Va., 2 | 1819
Vienna, Va., 5 | 1824
Marietta, O., 6 | 1830
Newport, O., 15 | 1845
Sistersville, 27 | 1872
Wheeling, Va., 40 | 1912
Warren, 9 | 1921
Wellsburg, Va., 6 | 1927
Steubenville, 7 | 1934
Welleville, O., 20 | 1954
Georgetown, 7 | 1962
Beaver, 13 | 1974
Economy, 12 | 1986
Middletown, Pa., 8 | 1994
Pittsburgh, Pa., 10 | 2004
Warrenton, by Canal, 47 | 2051
Blairsville, do 28 | 2079
Johnstown, do 29 | 2108
Hollidaysburg, by rail-road, 37 | 2145
Alexandria, by Canal, 26 | 2171
Lewiston, do 57 | 2228
Newport, do 36 | 2264
Harrisburg, do 26 | 2290
Philadelphia, by rail-road, 101 | 2391
Trenton, do 28 | 2419
Brunswick, do 27 | 2446
Jersey City, do 31 | 2477
New York, by steamboat, 1 | 2478
ROUTE 2.--_New Orleans to New York, via St. Louis, Chicago and Buffalo,
(see route 1.) to Mouth of the Ohio, Steamboat to St. Joseph._
Miles.
Mouth of Ohio, | 1040
Elk Island, 8 | 1048
Dogtooth Island, 8 | 1056
English Island, 15 | 1071
Cape Girardeau, Mo., 12 | 1083
Bainbridge, Mo., and Hamburg, Il., 10 | 1093
Lacouse's Island, 31 | 1124
Kaskaskia River, 15 | 1139
River au Vases, 10 | 1149
St. Genevieve, Mo., 9 | 1158
Fort Chartres Island, 10 | 1168
Rush Island, 10 | 1178
Herculaneum, Mo., 10 | 1188
Harrison, Il., 1 | 1189
Merrimack River, 11 | 1200
Carondelet, Mo., 13 | 1213
St. Louis, Mo., 7 | 1220
Alton, Il., 22 | 1242
Illinois River, 15 | 1257
Monroe, 5 | 1262
Guilford, 10 | 1272
Montezuma, 20 | 1292
Augusta, 15 | 1307
Meridosia, 23 | 1330
Beardstown, 16 | 1346
Havana, 27 | 1373
Pekin, 34 | 1407
Peoria, 7 | 1414
Henry, 10 | 1424
Columbia, 10 | 1434
Lacon, 4 | 1438
Hennepin, 18 | 1456
Chippeway, 16 | 1472
Shippingport, 2 | 1474
Dresden, 46 | 1520
Mount Joliet, 15 | 1535
Lockport, 6 | 1541
Chicago, Il., 29 | 1570
Michigan City, Ind., 52 | 1622
New Buffalo, M., 12 | 1634
St. Joseph, M., 28 | 1662
Detroit, by rail-road, 200 | 1862
Fighting Island, by steamboat 12 | 1874
Amhurstsburg, U. C., do 6 | 1880
Middle Sister Island, do 20 | 1900
North Bass Island, do 10 | 1910
Cunningham's Island, do 10 | 1920
Sandusky, O., do 12 | 1932
Cleaveland, O., do 54 | 1986
Fairport, O., do 30 | 2016
Ashtabula, O., do 32 | 2048
Fairview, Pa., do 28 | 2076
Erie, Pa., do 11 | 2087
Bugett's Town, Pa., do 17 | 2104
Portland, N. Y., do 18 | 2122
Dunkirk, N. Y., do 18 | 2140
Cattaraugus, N. Y., do 13 | 2153
Sturgeon Point, N. Y., do 10 | 2163
Buffalo, N. Y., do 16 | 2179
Williamsville, by rail-road, 10 | 2189
Pembroke, do 16 | 2205
Batavia, do 14 | 2219
Rochester, do 25 | 2244
Canandagua, do 25 | 2269
Geneva, do 16 | 2285
Waterloo, do 7 | 2292
Seneca Falls, do 4 | 2296
Cayuga, do 3 | 2299
Auburn, do 9 | 2308
Skaneatelas do 7 | 2315
Marcellus, do 6 | 2321
Onondaga, do 8 | 2329
Manlius, do 12 | 2341
Oneida, do 18 | 2359
Utica, do 22 | 2381
Herkimer, do 16 | 2397
Little Falls, do 7 | 2404
Caughnawaga, do 33 | 2437
Amsterdam, do 10 | 2447
Schenectady, do 15 | 2462
Albany, do 15 | 2477
New Baltimore, steamboat, 15 | 2492
Kinderhook Landing, do 4 | 2496
Hudson, do 9 | 2505
Catskill, do 5 | 2510
Clermont, do 9 | 2519
Redhook, upper landing, 2 | 2521
Redhook, lower do 3 | 2524
Rhinebeck, do 7 | 2531
Esopus, do 1 | 2532
Hyde Park, do 9 | 2541
Poughkeepsie, do 5 | 2546
New Hamburg, do 8 | 2554
Newburg, do 7 | 2561
Fishkill, do 1 | 2562
New Windsor, do 1 | 2563
Cold Spring, by steamboat, 3 | 2566
West Point, do 3 | 2569
St. Anthony's Nose, do 7 | 2576
Fort Fayette, do 5 | 2581
Stony Point, do 1 | 2582
Haverstraw, do 4 | 2586
Sing Sing, do 3 | 2589
Tarrytown, do 6 | 2595
Phillipstown, do 10 | 2605
Fort Independence, do 4 | 2609
Fort Washington, do 2 | 2611
Fort Lee, do 1 | 2612
Manhattanville, do 2 | 2614
New York, do 8 | 2622
ROUTE 3.--_New Orleans to New York, via Wheeling and Baltimore._