Chapter III

THE WERWOLF AT LARGE

I

In the days immediately before and after the breaking of the

war-tempest, the servants of the United States Government in Europe were

suddenly overwhelmed by a flood of work and care. The strenuous,

incessant toil in the consulates, legations, and embassies acted

somewhat as a narcotic. There was so much to do that there was no time

to worry.

The sense of an unmeasured calamity was present in the background of our

thoughts from the very beginning. But it was not until later that the

nature of the disaster grew clear and poignant. As month after month

hammered swiftly by, the meaning and portent of the catastrophe emerged

more sharply and penetrated our minds more deeply, stinging us awake.

A mighty nation which "rejected the dream of universal peace throughout

the world as non-German" (the Crown Prince, Germany in Arms); a nation

trained for war as a "biological necessity in which Might proves itself

the supreme Right" (Bernhardi, Germany and the Next War); a nation which

had been taught that "frightfulness" is a lawful and essential weapon in

war (Von Clausewitz); and whose generals said, "Frankly, we are and must

be barbarians" (Von Diefurth, Hamburger Nachrichten), while their

philosophers declared that "The German is the superior type of the

species homo sapiens" (Woltmann); a nation whose Imperial Head commended

to his soldiers the example of the Huns, and proclaimed, "It is to the

empire of the world that the German genius aspires" (Kaiser Wilhelm,

Speech at Aix-la-Chapelle, June 20, 1902)--a nation thus armed,

instructed, disciplined, and demoralized had broken loose. Another

Attila had come, with a new horde behind him to devastate and change the

face of the world. In the tumult and darkness which enfolded Europe, the

Werwolf was at large. We could hear his ululations in the forest. The

cries of his victims grew louder, piercing our hearts with pity and just

wrath.

II

But even when the most dreadful things are happening around you, the

regular and necessary work of the world must be carried on. Your own

particular "chore" must be done as well as you can do it.

As the trouble drew near and suddenly fell upon the world, the burden of

enormously increased and varied duties pressed heavily upon the American

representatives abroad. The first thing that we had to do was to make

provision for taking care of our own people in Europe who were caught

out in the storm and the danger.

That was a practical job with unlimited requirements. No one, except

those who had the distracting privilege of being in the American

diplomatic and consular service in the summer of 1914, knows how much

work and how many kinds of work rushed down upon us in a moment.

Banking, postal, and telegraph service, transportation, hotel and

boarding-house business, baggage express, the recovery of missing

articles and persons, the reunion of curiously separated families,

confidential inquiries, medical service (mainly mind-healing), and free

consultation on every subject under the sun--all these different

occupations, trades, and professions were not set down in our programme

when we came to Europe, nor covered by the slim calf-bound volume of

Instructions to Diplomatic Officers which was our only guide-book. But

we had to learn them at short notice and practise them as best we could.

No doubt we often acted in a way that was not strictly protocolaire.

Certainly we made mistakes. But it was better to do that than to sit

like bumps on a log doing nothing. The immediate affair in hand was to

help our own folks who were in distress and difficulty and who wanted to

get home as quickly and as safely as possible. So we tried to do it,

making use of the best means available, and praying that heaven and our

diplomatic colleagues would forgive any errors or gaffes that we might

make. We preserved a profound respect for etiquette and regularity. But

our predominant anxiety was to get the things done that had to be done.

Take an illustration. Excuse the personal references in it.

From the very beginning it seemed clear to me that one of the greatest

difficulties in the first days of war would be to secure a supply of

ready money for American travellers in flight. As a rule they carried

little hard cash with them. Paper money would be at a discount; checks

and drafts difficult, if not impossible, to negotiate in Holland.

Moratoriums were falling everywhere as thick as leaves in Vallombrosa.

So I went directly to my friend Foreign Minister Loudon, and asked him a

plain question.

"Would your Government be willing to help us in getting American

travellers' checks and drafts on letters of credit cashed if I should

indorse them as American Minister?"

He answered as promptly as if the suggestion had already been formed in

his own mind--as perhaps it had.

"Certainly, and gladly! Those pieces of paper would be the best

securities in the world--short-term notes of the American Government. If

you will get the authority from Washington to indorse, the Bank of the

Netherlands will honor the checks and drafts; and if the Bank hesitates

the National Treasury will cash them."

I cabled to the Department of State asking permission to make the

indorsements (a thing hitherto expressly forbidden by the instructions

to diplomatic officers), and explaining that I would take in each case

the best security obtainable, whether in the form of a draft on a letter

of credit or a personal note of hand with satisfactory references, and

that no money should be drawn except for necessary living expenses and

the cost of the journey home. The answer came promptly: "You have the

authority to indorse."

So a system of international banking between two Governments was

introduced. I believe it was absolutely a new plan. But it worked.

Then another idea occurred to me. The letters of credit were usually

drawn on London or Paris. In both cities a moratorium was on. Why not

make the drafts directly on New York? Why not call on the signer of the

letter of credit for the money instead of calling on the addressee? This

would cut out any possibility of difficulty from the moratorium.

This also was a new method. But it seemed reasonable. We tried it. And

it worked. A visiting committee of New York bankers to whom I related

this experience later laughed immensely. They also made some remarks

about "amateurs" and "audacity" which I would rather not repeat. But

upon the whole they did not seem shocked beyond recovery.

So it happened, by good fortune, that there was never a day in The Hague

when an American fugitive from the war, homeward bound, could not obtain

what cash he needed for him to live and to get to the United States. But

not money to buy souvenir spoons, or old furniture and pictures. "Very

sorry," we explained, "but our Government is not dealing in antiquities

at present. It is simply helping you to get home as quickly and

comfortably as possible. Please tell us how much money you need for

board and passage-money and you shall have it."

Except three or four chronic growlers and a few passionate antiquarian

ladies, everybody took it good-humoredly and cheerfully. I think they

understood, though not always clearly, that our Government was doing

more for its citizens caught out in a tempest than any other government

in the world would have done.

When the Tennessee arrived in the latter part of August with $2,500,000

in gold for the same purpose, it was another illustration of our

Government's parental care and forethought. We received our share of

this gold at The Hague. The first use we made of part of it was to take

up the American checks and drafts on which the Bank of the Netherlands

had advanced the money. Then we sent the paper to America for collection

and repayment to the National Treasury. I have not the accounts here and

cannot speak by the book, but I think I am not far out in saying that

our loss on these transactions was less than five per cent of the total

amount handled. And we banked for some very poor people, too!

I never had any idea, before the war broke out, how many of our

countrymen and countrywomen there are roaming about Europe every summer,

and with what a cheerful trust in Providence and utter disregard of

needful papers and precautions some of them roam! There were young women

travelling alone or in groups of two or three. There were old men so

feeble that one's first thought on seeing them was: "How did you get

away from your nurse?" There were people with superfluous funds, and

people with barely enough funds, and people with no funds at all. There

were college boys who had worked their way over and couldn't find a

chance to work it back. There were art-students and music-students

whose resources had given out.

There was a very rich woman, plastered with diamonds, who demanded the

free use of my garage for the storage of her automobile. When I

explained that, to my profound regret, it was impossible, because three

American guest cars were already stored there and the place could hold

no more, she flounced out of the room in high dudgeon.

There was a lady of a different type who came to say, very modestly,

that she had a balance in a bank at The Hague which she wanted to leave

to my order for use in helping people who were poor and deserving.

"Please make as sure as you can of the poverty," said she, "but take a

chance, now and then, on the deserts. We can't confine our kindness to

saints." This gift amounted to two or three thousand dollars, and was

the foundation of the Minister's private benevolence fund, which proved

so useful in later days and of which a remnant has been left for my

successor.

An American wrote to us from a little village in a remote province of

the Netherlands saying that his remittances from home had not arrived

and that he was penniless. He added by way of personal description: "My

social position is that of a Catholic priest with nervous prostration."

We helped him and he proved to be all right.

A rising comic-opera star, of engaging appearance and manners

(American), who was under a temporary financial obscuration because her

company in Holland had broken up, came to ask us to assist her in

getting to Germany, where she had friends and hoped to find work. We did

it with alacrity. Then she wrote asking us to forward certain legal

papers in connection with a divorce which she contemplated. We did it.

Then she sent us some of her newspaper articles and a lot of clippings

from German journals, requesting us to transmit them in the Legation

pouch to America. This we politely declined, with the plea of "non

possumus". Whereupon she was furious and denounced us to the German

authorities and the German-American press.

An American lady whose husband was dying in Hamburg came in desperate

distress with her daughter, to beg us to aid them in getting to him. We

found the only way that was open, a little-known route through the

northeast corner of Holland, procured the necessary permits, and enabled

the wife and daughter to reach his bedside before he died.

A poor woman (with a nice little baby), husband, a naturalized American,

was "somewhere in Argentina," wanted to go to his family in one of the

northwestern States. She had no money. We paid her expenses in The Hague

until we could get into communication with the family, and then sent her

home rejoicing.

These are a few examples of the ever-recurring humor and pathos which

touched our incessant grind of peace work in war times at The Hague.

Thousands and thousands of Americans, real or presumptive, passed

through the Legation--all sorts and conditions of men, asking for all

kinds of things.

Our house was transformed into an Inquiry Office and a Bureau for First

Aid to the Injured. There was often a dense throng outside the front

door, filling the street and reaching over into the park. Two Dutch boy

scouts, capital fellows in khaki, volunteered their assistance in

keeping order, and stood guard at the entrance giving out numbered

tickets of admission so that the house would not be choked and all the

work stopped.

You see, Holland was the narrow neck of the bottle, and the incredible

multitudes of Americans who were scattered about in Germany, Austria,

Russia, and parts of Switzerland, came pouring out our way. There was no

end to the extra work. Many a night I did not get my clothes off, but

took a bath and breakfast in the morning and went ahead with the next

day's business. No eight-hour day in that establishment!

It would have been impossible to hold on and keep going but for the

devotion and industry of the entire Legation staff, and the splendid aid

of the volunteers who came to help us through. Professor George Grafton

Wilson, of Harvard, was our Counsellor in International Law. Professor

Philip M. Brown, of Princeton, former Minister to Honduras, gave his

valuable service. Professor F. J. Moore, of the Massachusetts Institute

of Technology, took charge of the registration bureau. Hon. Charles H.

Sherrill, former Ambassador to the Argentine, and Charles Edward

Russell, the Socialist, and his wife, were among our best workers.

Alexander R. Gulick was at the head of the busy correspondence

department. Van Santvoord Merle-Smith, Evans Hubbard, and my son ran the

banking department. These are only a few names among the many good men

and women who helped their country for love.

My library was the Diplomatic Office, to which the despatches and the

passports came; the Conference Chamber, where all vexed questions were

discussed and decided; the Court of Appeal, where people who thought

they had not received fair treatment could present their complaints; and

the Consolation Room, where the really distressed, as well as the

slightly hysterical, came to tell their troubles. Some of them were

tragic and some comic. The most agitated and frightened persons were

among the fat commercial men. The women, as a rule, were fine and steady

and cheerful, especially the American-born. They met the adventure with

good sense and smiling faces; asked with commendable brevity for the

best advice or service that we could give them; and usually took the

advice and were more grateful for the service than it deserved.

So the days rolled on, full of infinitely varied cares and labors; and

every afternoon, about five o'clock, the whole staff with a dozen or a

score of our passing friends, went out under the spreading chestnut-tree

in the back garden for a half-hour of tea and talk. It was all very

peaceful and democratic. We were in neutral, friendly Holland. The big,

protecting shield of "Uncle Sam" was over us, and we felt safe.

III

Yet how near, how fearful, was the fierce reality of the unpardonable

war! Belgium was invaded by the Germans, an hour or two away from us. At

any moment their troops might be tempted to take the short cut through

the narrow strip of Dutch territory which runs so far down into Belgium;

and then the neutrality of Holland would be gone! The little country

would be part of the battle-field. Holland has always been resolved to

fight any invader.

All through August and September, 1914, that fear hung over the Dutch

people. It recurred later again and again--whenever a movement of German

troops came too close to the borders of Holland; whenever a newspaper

tale of impending operations transpired from Berlin or London. Once or

twice the anxiety rose almost to a popular panic. But I noticed that

even then the stock-market at Amsterdam remained calm. Now, the Dutch

are a very prudent folk, especially the bankers. Therefore I concluded

that somebody had received strong assurances both from Germany and Great

Britain that neither would invade the Netherlands provided the other

abstained.

But all the time there was that dreadful example of the "scrap of

paper"--the treaty which had been no protection for Belgium--to shake

confidence in any pledge of Germany. And all the time the news from just

beyond the border grew more and more horrible. Towns and villages were

looted and burned. Civilians were massacred; women outraged; children

brought to death. Heavy fines and ransoms were imposed for slight or

imaginary offenses. (They amounted to more than $40,000,000 in addition

to the "war contribution" exacted, which by August, 1917, had reached

$288,000,000.) Churches were ruined. Priests were shot. The country was

stripped and laid waste. All the scruples and rules by which men had

sought to moderate the needless cruelties of war were mocked and flung

aside. Ruin marked the track of the German troops, and terror ran before

their advance.

On August 19 Aerschot was sacked and 150 of its inhabitants killed. On

the 20th Andenne met the same fate and the number of the slain was 250.

On the 23d Dinant was wrecked and more than 600 men and women were

murdered. On the 25th the university library at Louvain was set on fire

and burned. The pillage and devastation of the city and its environs

continued for ten days. More than 2,000 houses were destroyed, and more

than 100 civilians were butchered. Time would fail me to tell of the

industrious little towns and the quaint Old World hamlets that were

wrecked, or of the men and women and young children who were tortured,

and had trial of mockings and bonds and imprisonment, and were slain by

the sword and by fire. Is it not all set down by sworn witnesses in the

great gray book of the Kingdom of Belgium, and in the blue book of the

committee of which Lord Bryce was the head? Have I not heard with my own

ears the agony of those whose parents were shot down before their eyes,

whose children were slain or ravished, whose wives or husbands were

carried into captivity, whose homes were made desolate, and who

themselves barely escaped with their lives?

Find an explanation for these Belgian atrocities if you can. What if a

few shots were fired by ignorant and infuriated civilians from the

windows of houses? It has not been proved. But even if it were, it would

be no reason for the martyrdom of a whole population, for the

destruction of distant and unincriminated towns, for the massacre of

evidently innocent persons.

Was it the drink found in the cellars of the houses that made the German

officers and soldiers mad? Perhaps so. But that makes the case no

better. It was stolen drink.

Was it the carrying out of the cold-blooded policy of "frightfulness" as

a necessary weapon of war? That is the wickedest excuse of all. It is

really an accusation. The probable truth of it is supported by what

happened later, when the Germans came to Poland, and when the Turks,

their allies and pupils in the art of war, slaughtered 800,000 Armenians

or drove them to a slow, painful death. It means just what the title of

this article says. The Werwolf was at large.

The first evidence of this spirit in the German conduct of the war that

came to my personal knowledge was on August 25. Two or three days

before, our American Consul-General in Antwerp, which was still the

temporary seat of the Belgian Government, had written to me saying that

he was absolutely destitute and begging me to send him some money for

the relief of his family and other Americans who were in dire need. The

Tennessee was lying off the Hook of Holland at that time, and there were

several of our splendid army officers ready and eager for any service.

One of the best of them, Captain Williams, offered himself as messenger,

and I sent him in to Antwerp, with three thousand dollars in gold in a

belt around his waist, on August 24. He had a hard, slow journey, but he

went through and delivered the money.

That very night, while he was in the city, a Zeppelin air-ship, the

first of its devilish tribe to get into action, sailed over sleeping

Antwerp dropping bombs. No military damage was done. But hundreds of

private houses were damaged and sixty destroyed. One bomb fell on a

hospital full of wounded Belgians and Germans. Scores of innocent

civilians, mostly women and children, were killed. "In a single house,"

writes an eye-witness, "I found four dead: one room was a chamber of

horrors, the remains of the mangled bodies being scattered in every

direction."

Mark the exact nature of this crime. The dropping of bombs from aircraft

is not technically illegal. The agreement of the nations to abandon and

prohibit this method of attack for five years unfortunately expired by

limitation of time in 1912 and was not renewed. But the old-established

rules of war among civilized nations have forbidden and still forbid the

bombardment of populous towns without due notice, in order that the

non-combatants may have a chance to find refuge and safety. This German

monster of the air came unannounced, in the dead of night, and, having

wrought its hellish surprise, vanished into the darkness again. This was

a crime against international law as well as a sin against humanity.

My captain returned to The Hague the next morning, bringing his report.

He had seen the horror with his own eyes. More: with the care of a true

officer he had made a map of the course taken by the air-ship in its

flight over the city. That map showed beyond a doubt that the aim of the

marauder was to destroy the principal hospital, the hotel where the

Belgian Ministers lived, and the palace in which the King and Queen with

their children were sleeping.

I cabled the facts to Washington at once, and sent the map with a fuller

report the next day. I felt deeply (and ventured to express my feeling)

that the United States could, and ought to, protest against this clear

violation of the law of nations--this glaring manifestation of a spirit

which was going to make this war the most cruel and atrocious known to

history. The foreboding of a return to barbarism has been fulfilled,

alas, only too abominably!

In every step of that downward path Germany has led the way, by the

perfection of her scientific methods applied to a devilish purpose.

Take, for example, the use of poisonous gas in warfare. This was an

ancient weapon, employed long before the beginning of the Christian era.

It had been abandoned by civilized nations, and was prohibited by one of

the Hague conventions, for a period of five years. But that period

having expired, and the convention being only a "scrap of paper,"

Germany revived the ancient deviltry in a more scientific form. On April

22, 1915, she sent the yellow clouds of death rolling down upon the

trenches of Ypres, where the British defended the last city of outraged

Belgium. The suffocating horrors of that hellish method of attack are

beyond description. The fame of this achievement of spectacled barbarism

belongs to the learned servants of the predatory Potsdam gang. But we

cannot blame the Allies if they were forced reluctantly to take up the

same weapon in self-defense.

IV

The real character and the inhuman effect of the German invasion were

brought home to us, and made painfully clear to our eyes and our hearts,

by the amazing tragic spectacle of the flood of refugees pouring out of

Belgium.

It began slowly. When the quaint frontier town of Vise, surrounded by

its goose-farms, was attacked and set on fire on August 4, there were

many families from the neighborhood who fled to Holland. When Liege was

captured on the 7th after a brave defense, and its last fort fell on the

15th, there were more fugitives. When Brussels was occupied without

resistance on the 20th there were still more. As the invasion spread

westward and southward, engulfing city after city in widening waves of

blood, the tide of terror and flight rose steadily. It reached its

high-water mark when Antwerp, after the Germans had pounded its outer

and inner circle of forts for nine days, was bombarded on October 7 and

captured on the 18th.

Nothing like that sad, fear-smitten exodus has been seen on earth in

modern times. There was something in it at once fateful, trembling, and

irresistible, which recalled De Quincey's famous story of The Flight of

a Tartar Tribe. No barrier on the Holland border could have kept that

flood of Belgian refugees out. They were an enormous flock of sheep and

lambs, harried by the Werwolf and fleeing for their lives.

But Holland did not want a barrier. She stood with open doors and arms,

offering an asylum to the distressed and persecuted.

I do not believe that any country has ever made a better record of wise,

steady, and true humanitarian work than Holland made in this matter. It

is not necessary to exaggerate it. Naturally, Belgium and Great Britain

bore by far the largest part of the financial burden of caring for the

refugees. Regular subsidies were guaranteed for this purpose. But

Holland gave freely and generously what was more important: a prompt and

sufficient welcome and shelter from the storm; abundant supplies of

money for immediate needs, food and clothing, a roof and a fire;

personal aid and care, nursing, medical attendance--all of which these

bewildered exiles needed desperately and at once.

This is not the place, nor the time, in which to attempt a full report

of the humane task which was suddenly thrown upon Holland by the deadly

doings of the German Werwolf in Belgium, nor of the way in which that

task was accepted and carried out. I shall note only a few things of

which I have personal knowledge.

Going along the railway line which leads to Antwerp, I saw every train

literally packed with fugitives. They had come, not in organized,

orderly companies, but in droves--tens of thousands, hundreds of

thousands. They were dazed and confused, escaping from they knew not

what, carried they knew not whither. It is well for the poet to say:

"Be not like dumb, driven cattle";

but what can you do in a case like this except run from hell as fast as

you can and take the first open road?

The station platforms were crowded with folks in motley garments showing

signs of wear and tear. Their possessions were done up in bags and

shapeless bundles, rolled in pieces of sacking, old shawls,

red-and-white-checkered table-cloths. The men, with drawn and heavy

faces, waited patiently. The women collected and watched their restless

flocks. The baby tugged at its mother's breast. The little sister

carried the next-to-baby in her arms. The boys, as usual, wandered

everywhere undismayed and peered curiously into everything.

The crowds were not disorderly or turbulent; there was no shrieking or

groaning. There were, of course, some of the baser sort in the vast

multitude that fled to Holland--street rowdies and other sons of Belial

from the big towns, women of the pavements, and other wretched

by-products of our social system. How could it be otherwise in a throng

of about a million, scooped up and cast out by an evil chance? But the

great bulk of the people were decent and industrious--no more angels

than the rest of us can show per thousand.

I remember a very respectable old couple, cleanly though plainly clad,

waiting at the station of a small village, looking in vain for a chance

to board the train. Everything was full except the compartment reserved

for us. We opened the door and asked them to get in. The old gentleman

explained that he was a landscape-gardener, living in a small villa with

a small garden, in a suburb of Antwerp.

"It was a beautiful garden, monsieur," he said with glistening eyes. "It

was arranged with much skill and care. We loved every bush, every

flower. But one evening three German shells fell in it and burst. The

good wife and I" (here a wan smile) "thought the climate no longer

sanitary. We ran away that night on foot. Much misery for old people.

Last night we slept in a barn with hundreds of others. But some day we

go back to restore that garden. N' est-ce pas vrai, cherie?"

Rosendaal, the Dutch custom-house town on the way to Antwerp, claims

15,000 inhabitants. In two nights at least 40,000 refugees poured into

that place. Every house from the richest to the poorest opened its doors

in hospitality. The beds and the floors were all filled with sleepers. A

big vacant factory building was fitted with improvised bunks and straw

bedding. Two thousand five hundred people were lodged there. Open-air

kitchens were set up. The burgomaster and aldermen and doctors and all

the other "leading citizens" took off their coats and worked. The best

women in the place were cooking, serving tables, nursing, making

clothes, doing all they could for their involuntary guests.

In the picturesque old city of Bergen-op-Zoom--famous in history--I saw

the same thing. There a large tent-camp had been set up for the overflow

from the houses. It was like a huge circus of distress. The city hall

was turned into an emergency storehouse of food: the vaulted halls and

chambers filled with boxes, bags, and barrels. When I went up to the

bureau of the burgomaster, his wife and daughters were there, sewing

busily for the refugees.

I visited the main hospital and the annexes which had been established

in the schoolhouses. Twice, as we climbed the steep stairs, we stood

aside for stretchers to be carried past. They bore the bodies of people

who had died from exposure and exhaustion.

In one ward there were a score of the most ancient women I have ever

seen. They had made the flight on foot. God knows how they ever did it.

One of them was so weak that she could not speak, so short of breath

that she could not lie down. As she sat propped with pillows, rocking

slowly to and fro and coughing, coughing, feebly coughing her life out,

she looked a thousand years old. Perhaps she was, if suffering measures

years.

Another room was for babies born in the terror and the flight. A few

were well-looking enough; but most of them were pitiful scraps and

tatters of humanity. They were tenderly nursed and cared for, but their

chance was slender. While I was there one of the little creatures

shuddered, breathed a tiny sigh, and slipped out of a world that was too

hard for it.

It was part of my unofficial duty to visit as many as possible of the

private shelters and hospitals and workrooms and the public camps,

because the Belgian Relief Committee and other friends in New York had

sent me considerable sums of money to use in helping the refugees. In

the careful application of these funds I had the advice of Mr. Th.

Stuart, President of the "Netherlands Relief Committee for Belgian and

Other Victims of War," and of Baron F. van Tuyll van Serooskerken, a

great friend of mine, whom the Queen had appointed as General

Commissioner to oversee all the public refugee camps.

Three of these, Nunspeet, Ede, and Uden, were improvised villages, with

blocks of long community houses, separate dormitories for the unmarried

men and for the single women, a dining-hall, a chapel, one or two

schoolhouses, a recreation-hall, a house of detention for refractory

persons, one hospital for general cases, and another for infectious

diseases. It was all built of wood, simple and primitive, but as

comfortable as could be expected under the conditions. The chief danger

of the camps was idleness. In providing work to combat this peril the

Rockefeller Foundation and the committee of the English "Society of

Friends" were of great assistance. Each of these camps had accommodation

for about 10,000 people.

The fourth camp was at the ancient city of Gouda, famed for its great

old church with stained-glass windows and for its excellent cheese and

clay pipes. This camp was the earliest and one of the most interesting

that I visited. It was established in a series of exceptionally large

and fine greenhouses, which happened to be empty when the emergency

came. Somebody--I think it was the clever Burgomaster Yssel de Scheppe

and his admirable wife--had the good idea of utilizing them for the

refugees. It seemed a curious notion, to raise human plants under glass.

But it worked finely. The houses were long and lofty; they had concrete

floors and broad concrete platforms where the "cubicles" for the

separate families could easily be erected; steam heat, electric light,

hot and cold water were already "laid on"; it was quite palatial in its

way. A few wooden houses, a laundry, a kitchen, a carpenter-shop for the

men, and so on, were quickly run up. There was a bowling-alley and a

playground and a schoolhouse. The people could go to church in the town.

Soon twenty-five hundred exiles were living in this queer but

comfortable camp.

But it was evident that this refugee life, even under the best

conditions that could be devised, was abnormal. There was not room in

the industrial life of Holland for all these people to stay there

permanently. Besides, they did not want to stay, and that counts for

something in human affairs. The question arose whether it might not be

wise to let them go home. Not to send them home, you understand. That

was never even contemplated. But simply to allow them to return to their

own country, at least in the regions where the fury of war had already

passed by. I suggested to Mr. Stuart that before you allow poor folks to

"go home," you ought to know whether they have a "home" to go to. So we

took my motor in October and made a little tour of investigation in

Belgium.

That was a strange and memorable journey. The long run in the dripping

autumn afternoon along the Antwerp Road, where the miserable fugitives

were still trudging in thousands; the search for lodgings in the

stricken city, where most of the streets were silent and deserted as if

the plague had passed there, and the only bustling life was in the

central quarter, where "the field-gray ones" abounded; the closed shops,

the house-fronts shattered by shells, the great cathedral standing in

the moonlight, unharmed as far as we could see, except for one shell

which had penetrated the south transept, just where Rubens's "Descent

from the Cross" used to hang before it was carried away for safety--I

shall never forget those impressions.

The next morning, provided with permits which the German Military

Commandant had very courteously given us, we set out on our tour. The

journey became still more strange. The beautiful trees of the suburbs

were razed to the ground, the little villas stood empty, many of them

half-ruined. (Perhaps one of them belonged to our friend the

landscape-gardener.) We could see clearly the emplacements for the big

German guns, which had been secretly laid long before the war began,

concealed in cellars and beneath innocent-looking tennis-courts. The

ring-forts surrounding Antwerp were knocked to pieces, their huge

concrete gateways, their stone facings, their high earthworks, all

battered out of shape.

Town after town through which we passed lay half-destroyed or in

complete ruins. Wavre, Waelhem, Termonde, Duffel, Lierre, and many

smaller places were in various stages of destruction, burned or

shattered by shell fire and explosives. The heaps of bricks and stones

encumbered the streets so that it was hard to pick our way through. The

smell of decaying bodies tainted the air. The fields had been inundated

in the valleys; the water was subsiding; here and there corpses lay in

the mud. Old trenches everywhere; thousands of rudely heaped graves,

marked by two crossed sticks; miles on miles of rusty barbed-wire

defenses, with dead cows or horses entangled in them, slowly rotting,

haunted by the carrion crows.

Yet there were some people in the countryside. Now and then we saw a

woman or an old man digging in field or garden. We stopped at the front

yard of a little farmhouse, where the farmer's wife stood, and asked her

some directions about the road. She gave them cheerfully, though the

house at her back was little more than a mass of ruins.

"Were you here in the fighting?" we asked.

"But no, messieurs," she answered with a short laugh. "If I had been

here, I should not be here. I ran away to Holland and returned yesterday

to my house. But how shall I creep in?" She pointed over her shoulder to

the pile of bricks. "I am not a cat or a rat."

They are indomitable, those Flemish people. At Lierre we were very

hungry and searched vainly for an inn or a grocery. At last in one of

the streets we saw a little baker-shop. The upper story was riddled and

broken. But the shop was untouched, the window-shade half up, and

underneath we could see two loaves of bread. We went in. The bare-armed

baker met us.

"Can you sell us a little bread?"

"But certainly, messieurs, that is what I am here for. Not the window

loaves, however; I have a fresh loaf, if you please. Also a little

cheese, if you will."

"Were you here in the fighting?"

"Assuredly not! It was impossible. But I hurried back after three days.

You see, messieurs, some people were returning, and me--I am the Baker

of Lierre."

He said it as if it were a title of nobility.

At Malines (Mechelen) the devastation appeared perhaps more shocking

because we had known the russet and gray old city so well in peaceful

years. Many of the streets were impassable, choked with debris. One side

of the great Square was knocked to fragments. The huge belfry, Saint

Rombaud's Tower, wherein hangs the famous carillon of more than thirty

bells, was battered but still stood firm. The vast cathedral was a

melancholy wreck of its former beauty and grandeur. The roof was but a

skeleton of bare rafters; the side wall pierced with gaping rents and

holes; the pictured windows were all gone; the sunlight streamed in

everywhere upon the stone floor, strewn with an indescribable confusion

of shattered glass, fallen beams, fragments of carved wood, and broken

images of saints.

A little house behind the Church of Saint Peter and Saint Paul, the roof

and upper story of which had been pierced by shells, seemed to be

occupied. We knocked and went in. The man and his wife were in the

sitting-room, trying to put it in order. Much of the furniture was

destroyed; the walls were pitted with shrapnel-scars, but the cheap

ornaments on the mantel were unbroken. In the ceiling was a big hole,

and in the floor a pit in which lay the head and fragments of a German

shell. I asked if I might have them. "Certainly," answered the man. "We

wish to keep no souvenirs of that wicked thing."

V

I do not propose to describe the magnificent work of the "Commission for

Relief in Belgium." It is too well known. Besides, it is not my story;

it is the story of Herbert Hoover, who made the idea a reality, and of

the crew of fine and fearless young Americans who worked with him.

England and France furnished more money to buy food; but the United

States, in addition to money and wheat, gave the organization, the

personal energy and toil and tact, the assurance of fair play and honest

dealing, without which that food could never have gotten into Belgium or

been distributed only to the civil population.

Holland was the door through which all the supplies for the C. R. B. had

to pass. The first two cargoes that went in I had to put through

personally, and nearly had to fight to do it. My job was to keep the

back of the United States against that door and hold it open. It was not

always easy. I was obliged to make protests, remonstrances, and polite

suggestions about what would happen if certain things were not done.

Once the Germans refused to give any more "safe-conduct passes" for

relief ships on the return voyage. Of course, that would have made the

work impossible. A German aircraft bombed one of these ships. I put the

matter mildly but firmly to the German Minister. "This work is in your

interest. It relieves you from the burden of feeding a lot of people

whom you would otherwise be bound to feed. You want it to go on?" "Yes,

certainly, by all means." "Well, then, you will have to stop attacking

the C. R. B. ships or else the work will have to stop. The case is very

simple. There is only one thing to do." He promised to take the matter

up with Berlin at once. In a couple of days the answer came: "Very

sorry. Regrettable mistake. Aviator could not see markings on side and

stern of ship. Advise large horizontal signs painted on top deck of

ships, visible from above. Safe-conducts will be granted."

When this was told to Captain White, a clever Yankee sea-captain who had

general charge of the C. R. B. shipping, he laughed considerably and

then said: "Why, look-a-here, I'll paint those boats all over, top,

sides, and bottom, if that'll only keep the ---- Germans from sinkin'

'em."

From a million and a half to two million men, women, and children in

Belgium and northern France were saved from starving to death by the

work of the C. R. B. The men who were doing it had a chance to observe

the conditions in those invaded countries. They came to the Legation at

The Hague and told simply what they knew. We got the real story of Miss

Cavell, cruelly done to death by "field-gray" officers. We got full

descriptions of the system of deporting the civil population--a system

which amounted to enslavement, with a taint of "white slavery" thrown

in. When the Belgian workmen were suddenly called from their homes,

herded before the German commandant, and sent away, they knew not

whither, to work for their oppressor, as they were entrained they sang

the "Marseillaise." They knew they would be punished for it, kept

without food, put to the hardest labor. But they sang it. They knew that

France, and England too, were fighting for them, for their rights, for

their liberty. They believed that it would come. They were not conquered

yet.

Here I must break off my story for a month. It has not been well told.

Words cannot render the impression of black horror that lay upon us, the

fierce indignation that stirred us, during all those months while we

were doing the tasks of peace in peaceful Holland.

We were bound to be neutral in conduct. That was the condition of our

service to the wounded, the prisoners, the refugees, the sufferers, of

both sides. We lived up to that condition at The Hague without a single

criticism from anybody--except the subsidized German-American press in

the United States.

But to be neutral in thought and feeling--ah, that was beyond my power.

I knew that the predatory Potsdam gang had chosen and forced the war in

order to realize their robber-dream of Pan-Germanism. I knew that they

were pushing it with unheard-of atrocity in Belgium and northern France,

in Poland and Servia and Armenia. I knew that they had challenged and

attacked the whole world of peace-loving nations. I knew that America

belonged to that imperilled world. I knew that there could be no secure

labor and no quiet sleep in any land so long as the Potsdam Werwolf was

at large.

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