PIKE LAKE TO FORT UNION
From Pike Lake the expedition pursued a general course westerly by ten
degrees northerly in order to clear the great northeastern bend of the
Missouri, and reached Fort Union in thirty-eight days, traversing a
distance of five hundred and fifty miles. A compass and odometer line
was run with the main party. Pursuing his system of exploring a wide
scope of country by means of detached parties, Governor Stevens
dispatched Lieutenant Grover with a picked party to survey a separate
route south of that of the main body as far as Fort Union, and kept
Lander, Tinkham, Dr. Suckley, Lambert, Doty, and Adams, with small
parties of the voyageurs, examining the country within forty miles of
the route by frequent side trips. The main train crossed the Red River
near the town of Breckenridge, the James River some distance north of
Jamestown, and skirted the Mouse River near Minot, on the Great Northern
Railroad, from which point to Fort Union, and for hundreds of miles
beyond, that railroad follows Governor Stevens's route. It is
characteristic of the governor that in sending officers on the detached
trips he always furnished them the best men and animals of the party,
frequently allowing them to select them themselves. On July 12 he
overstrained himself in his exertions to prevent a herd of buffalo from
stampeding the train, and the old rupture, which had given him so much
trouble in Mexico, broke out afresh, and obliged him to ride in an
ambulance for many hundreds of miles. But his spirit and energy were
no-wise quelled by this grievous physical disability. The graphic
descriptions of the country, the incidents of the march, the encounter
with countless herds of buffalo, and the meetings with the Red River
hunters and Assiniboine Indians are given in the final report with a
fullness of detail which cannot be attempted here, but the following
extracts will give a fair idea of this stage of the exploration:--
June 24. I directed Lieutenant Grover to select a party of twenty
picked men, twenty-six mules, three horses, and twenty-five days'
provisions, including an ox, with which to go forward on the Dead
Colt Hillock line. In thus giving to Lieutenant Grover his own
selection of animals and men, my purpose was to make him in the
highest degree effective in the means at his disposal, and to
demonstrate by the success of his undertaking the entire feasibility
of operating in detached parties. Messrs. Lander and Tinkham moved
forward this afternoon to Chippewa River.
On counting rations, it was found that for the main party there was
a supply for twenty days, while it might take forty-five to reach
Fort Union. But with the eight oxen in the carts, and the known
abundance of game, I feared no scarcity. The men showed some
anxiety, and talked of a strike, but, seeing the confidence of the
officers, abandoned any open demonstration. I had ordered a reducing
of rations whenever the quantity of game would justify it, and
henceforward I gave the most particular attention to it, so that,
although we did not reach the Yellowstone for thirty-eight days,
there was at no time a scarcity of provisions.
June 25. To-day the expedition may be considered fairly under way.
Lieutenant Grover started at 7.30 A.M. The main party, under my own
direction, moved forward at about the same time. In ten miles
reached the Chippewa River. The india-rubber boats did good service,
carrying over each time more than half a wagon-load. The whole train
was all well encamped two miles further on at a fine lake by sunset.
June 26. The main party moved to-day to the camp of Mr. Tinkham of
last night, and the whole command was over the river and in camp by
six o'clock. As we were now approaching the Indian country, I
systematized all the arrangements of camp and guards, and the
details of duty on the march. The dragoons were distributed as
follows: two for the pack-train; two with a led horse each for
reconnoitring duty; two to strike and pitch tents; two to catch
fish; two with the howitzer; Sergeant Lindner and seven men with the
main column. The sergeant was, moreover, charged with the duty of
laying out the encampment under my direction. For the care of the
camp, an officer of the guard, who also served as officer of the
day, two non-commissioned officers, and six privates were detailed.
Cook-fires to be made at two A.M.; the cooks and teamsters called at
three, and the animals to be put in good grass; reveille to be
sounded at four, and all the officers to be called by name; the
whole camp to breakfast about four, and the teamsters immediately to
commence harnessing up; tents struck by half past four, and camp in
motion by five; the sentinels instructed to fire upon any prowling
Indians.
June 27. Camp roused at four A.M. While at breakfast, Lieutenant
Moffett gave me notice that we had but four minutes left to eat in,
and, as we failed to get through, he had the tents struck over our
heads. The train moved at five o'clock. About eight miles from camp
passed Elbow Lake, fourteen miles reached Rabbit River, followed the
stream to where it empties into Bell's Lake, and, going along the
beach through water eight inches deep with a pebbly bottom, we found
a good crossing, though a ridge has to be ascended before getting
upon the plain where our camp is placed. The grass is most
excellent, and the animals, accustomed to each other, are visibly
improving.
Tuesday, June 28. At half past ten A.M. the advance had crossed
Rabbit River, fifteen miles from camp, and halted until the arrival
of the main train. Leaving the train to rest, the advance started at
two. In three miles met Mr. Lander, whose camp was with Mr.
Tinkham's, and went into camp at five on the Bois de Sioux, and were
joined by the whole party at nine o'clock, after a march of
twenty-seven miles over a country that had been invariably reported
the very worst of the whole route. Our animals, though somewhat
tired, immediately went to feeding. There were some soft places
between the Rabbit River and the Bois de Sioux, in which the animals
were mired and wagons stalled; but we were agreeably disappointed in
having comparatively a very comfortable day's journey.
Numerous large catfish were caught this afternoon, some weighing
from twelve to twenty pounds. At half past eleven P.M. we sat down
to a supper of ducks, catfish, and coffee, and all the men were in
fine spirits. The Bois de Sioux had been a great point to
reach,--the end of bad roads and the commencement of the buffalo
country. Here we may take a general review of the country since
leaving St. Paul.
Between Camp Pierce and Sauk Rapids, seventy-nine miles, the road
passes through beautiful prairies and oak openings, with occasional
meadows, wet at this early season, and, at some distance to the
right, groves of tamarack, varying the landscape with their light
and feathery foliage.
From the crossing at Sauk Rapids to Lightning Lake most of the
country is rolling prairie, with the wooded banks of Sauk River on
the south, and numerous small ponds and lakes with trees on their
banks, abundant and excellent pasture, and swarms of water-fowl,
supplying plenty of fresh provisions.
A similar delightful country continues to the Bois de Sioux River,
with some decrease in the amount of timber, until the banks of that
river are reached.
After leaving Lightning Lake the country seems to change its
character; no longer a flat, undiversified surface, or with gentle
undulations scarcely attracting notice, it has gradually changed to
a heavy, rolling prairie, and at White Bear Lake becomes broken up
into hills, valleys, and basins. Boulders and smaller stones are
numerous.
This whole dividing ridge, then, separating the waters of the
Mississippi from those of the Red River, which flow into Hudson Bay,
is not the lofty range of mountains which might be supposed to
separate the sources of two such great bodies of water flowing in
opposite directions and to outlets so widely distant, but is a
gently undulating and exceedingly rich prairie country, abundantly
wooded and watered, having a width of one hundred miles, and an
elevation not exceeding six hundred feet above the river and about
sixteen hundred above the sea. There is a very slight rise in the
general level in going westward, the Bois de Sioux being at the
crossing only thirty-one feet higher than the Mississippi at Sauk
Rapids. Undulating and level prairies, skirted by woods of various
growth, and clothed everywhere with rich verdure; numerous and rapid
streams, with innumerable small but limpid lakes, frequented by
multitudes of wild fowl, most conspicuous among which appears the
stately swan,--these, in ever-recurring succession, make up the
panorama of this extensive district, which may be said to be
everywhere fertile, beautiful, and inviting.
The most remarkable features of this region are the intervals of
level prairie, especially that near the bend of the branches of Red
River, where the horizon is as unbroken as that of a calm sea. Nor
are other points of resemblance wanting: the long grass, which in
such places is unusually rank, bending gracefully to the passing
breeze as it sweeps along the plain, gives the idea of waves (as
indeed they are); and the solitary horseman on the horizon is so
indistinctly seen as to complete the picture by the suggestion of a
sail, raising the first feelings of novelty to a character of wonder
and delight. The flowing outlines of the rolling prairies are broken
only by the small lakes and patches of timber, which relieve them of
monotony and enhance their beauty; and though marshes and sloughs
occur, they are too small and infrequent to affect the generally
attractive character of the country. The elevation of the rolling
prairie is generally so uniform that even the summits between
streams flowing in opposite directions exhibit no peculiar features
to distinguish them from the ordinary valley slopes.
Wednesday, June 29. The advance parties crossed the river before
seven o'clock, but the train was not started till eleven, so as to
give the animals rest. The ford, very good for a small train, became
very muddy towards the last, and though we unloaded all the wagons
and carried the loads over in boats, the wagons and animals were
badly stalled at the edges and on the soft and steep banks of the
river. The country from the Bois de Sioux to the Wild Rice River is
a broad, level prairie, covered with luxuriant grass eighteen inches
high; the distance eleven miles, with occasional sloughs. The heat
to-day was excessive, and the mosquitoes very annoying to men and
animals. At four o'clock, profiting by our experience in crossing
the Bois de Sioux, I sent Mr. Lander with a select force of axemen
to cut timber to bridge the Wild Rice. The train came up slowly, the
last wagons not reaching camp till midnight.
Thursday, June 30. Part of the men were employed in carefully
currying and washing the animals, and in catching fish; the
remainder were detailed to build the bridge, which was completed by
one P.M. It was made of heavy logs, filled in with cut willow-brush
and mown grass. Moved at two o'clock; in three miles came to a small
creek, which was quite marshy, and caused delay to cross. Moving a
mile and a half farther we again struck the same stream, and
encamped at half past four P.M. During our march we encountered a
very severe storm, accompanied with thunder and lightning. Boutineau
brought in an elk, which furnished about two pounds of excellent
fresh meat to each man, and was much enjoyed. Kendall and the two
Boulieaus overtook us to-day, bringing supplies and five Indian
ponies.
July 1. I determined to push forward with the engineer party to the
Sheyenne, and, if I found it necessary, have it bridged. Smooth
prairie extended all the way, road good, and the distance twenty-six
and a half miles. A very severe thunderstorm occurred this morning,
lasting an hour, and wetting us thoroughly. At eleven A.M. we met
the train of the Red River traders, and visited their camp, six
miles distant. We were very hospitably received, purchased some
pemmican, common moccasins, and articles of dress worked with
porcupine quills. Bought also some carts and oxen, being very
deficient in transportation.
The main train only proceeded thirteen miles, and I returned to them
about three P.M., accompanied by Kittson, Father Delacour, Roulet,
and Cavilaer. Kittson and Roulet were members of the territorial
legislature from Pembina; Cavilaer, the collector of customs; and
Delacour is a very clever, shrewd priest. They are on their annual
trip to St. Paul with robes, skins, pemmican, and dried meat of the
buffalo, collected by trading with the half-breeds of the Red River
settlements. We found that they had bridged the Sheyenne, saving us
considerable trouble and delay. Their company proved very agreeable,
and we were glad that a heavy thunderstorm coming on obliged them to
be our guests for the night.
July 2. Struck camp at seven o'clock and parted with our new
friends, sending back with them Strobel and two teamsters, who
proved inefficient. The whole train crossed the Sheyenne bridge
safely by noon, and camped on the other side. We had apprehended
that possibly the heavy rain of last night would swell the river and
carry away the bridge, but hurrying up the wagons, we made the
crossing just before the water had risen sufficiently to flow over
the bridge. I called this camp McClelland, intending to halt here
over Sunday and make up dispatches for Washington. I sent Lander and
Tinkham to reconnoitre both up and down the river.
July 3, Sunday. Lander came back from his reconnoissance, having
been as far south as Dead Colt Hillock. He met with a singular
adventure, which afforded us a great deal of amusement. Riding along
with his four voyageurs, whom he used to call his "men of iron," at
some distance ahead they saw a skunk moving leisurely through the
grass, with tail erect and defying their approach. Lander leveled
his glass at it, and, satisfying himself that it was an Indian
watching their movements and trying to hide himself, gave the order
for his gallant band to "charge." They did charge, and at the same
time firing their revolvers, the poor skunk fell, riddled with balls
and weltering in his blood; when coming up, they discovered the
extent of their bold exploit. Joking in camp is one of the pastimes
to relieve the annoyances of the march, and every little thing is
seized upon to feed the disposition.
Fourth of July. The train started at six A.M. I remained behind to
get off a mail. Started about ten and followed the Red River trail
some twelve miles, when we left it altogether. Crossed Maple River,
and camped on its banks. About dusk we raised the American flag,
made of red and white shirts, contributed by the party and sewed
together by Boulieau. As it went up, the assembled command gave it
three hearty cheers, and then indulged in some refreshments in honor
of the day, ending the evening with songs and story-telling.
July 5. Traveled twenty miles over a high, firm, and almost level
prairie, camping on a small branch of Maple River without any wood
near it. The pack-train requiring more attention and care of the
animals than has been given by the man in charge, who does not take
sufficient pains with the disabled animals, I to-day directed Mr.
Kendall to oversee them and have them properly attended to.
July 6. Went twenty miles farther, making a noon halt of two hours,
when Mr. Tinkham returned from a long and rapid reconnoissance
ahead. Prairie more rolling, but road good. A high butte to the left
of our course enabled me to get a fine view of the surrounding
country. Two Indians were seen by Boutineau, who was out after
buffalo, which he did not find; but abundance of ducks continue to
supply the camp with fresh meat.
July 7. About 8.30 we struck the Sheyenne six miles from camp, and
rested an hour. Keeping the Sheyenne on our left, we moved forward
ten miles and camped about a mile and a half from the river on the
banks of a fine lake. To-day Le Frambois and Menoc killed an old
buffalo bull, and also brought in some dozen geese. Several of the
messes supplied themselves with frogs, which have been most abundant
on our march for the past two days. The whole command took supper
off of buffalo, and the meat, though old and tough, tasted very
good, and saved us an ox which had been destined for the slaughter.
Several antelopes and wolves were seen to-day.
July 8. Started this morning at 6.30, and arrived at the crossing of
the Sheyenne River after a march of fifteen miles. Buttes in
considerable number are seen ahead, among which the Horse Butte and
the Butte Micheau are plainly visible. Mr. Tinkham, Paul, and Henry
were out again to-day, making a reconnoissance on the Sheyenne. We
went into camp about one o'clock on the east and south side of the
Sheyenne, and a party was at once detailed to cut wood and prepare
charcoal. The magnetic tent was put up, and the astronomical and
meteorological parties went immediately to work. I called our camp
Camp Guthrie, in honor of the Secretary of the Treasury, and
determined to remain here all day to-morrow.
Boutineau and Henry Boulieau went out this afternoon, and returned
with the choice pieces of a fine, fat, young buffalo bull, and we
made a delightful meal, around the fire, of the ribs, marrow-bones,
etc., cooked hunter's fashion. Towards evening, on the coteau on the
other side of the river, a herd of some twenty elks made their
appearance. Numerous wolves were also seen, which, during the night,
kept up a constant howling. We planted flags on high hills in the
vicinity as signals to Lander, who may follow the Sheyenne River to
find our crossing-place.
July 9. An accurate return was made of the provisions on hand, so as
to regulate its weekly distribution. Our flour is fast diminishing,
and the issue was reduced to half a pound per day to each man. This
state of affairs caused considerable grumbling in camp. We are fast
approaching the buffalo country, and then shall be expected to do
with much less. About 2.30 P.M. the main train under Mr. Osgood
crossed the river, and moved forward to a good camping-place. The
astronomical, magnetic, and meteorological parties, with the detail
of three men attending to the coal-pit, and Mr. Evans and myself,
remained at Camp Guthrie, intending to join them before they moved
in the morning.
July 10. After partaking of a cup of coffee at three o'clock, our
little train, consisting of an ambulance and spring wagon with a
cart loaded with charcoal, had crossed the Sheyenne by sunrise.
About seven o'clock we reached the main train, encamped some seven
miles off. The train was preparing to move, and soon after we came
up it started; at eight o'clock we followed and passed them. About
five miles from camp we ascended to the top of a high hill, and for
a great distance ahead every square mile seemed to have a herd of
buffalo on it. Their number was variously estimated by the members
of the party, some as high as half a million. I do not think it is
any exaggeration to set it down at 200,000. I had heard of the
myriads of these animals inhabiting these plains, but I could not
realize the truth of these accounts till to-day, when they surpassed
anything I could have imagined from the accounts which I had
received.
The timber bordering on Lake Jessie was distinctly visible ahead,
and between us and it were countless herds of buffalo, through
which we were compelled to pass. The train moved on till eleven
o'clock, when we all halted, drew up in line, and picketed the loose
animals. Six of the hunters, Boutineau, Menoc, Le Frambois, the two
Boulieaus, and Rummell, were mounted upon the best horses in the
command, some of which were specially reserved, and rode off in fine
style, keeping together till ready to dash in among the herd. The
immense sea of flesh remained quiet until their approach, and then,
separating, they rode in among them, selected the fat cows, and,
riding around until the proper time to do execution, the quick
succession of shots announced the fact that our supplies of meat
were fast being added to. In less than an hour a wagon was called
into requisition to collect the choice pieces of nine buffalo cows.
While we were resting, several small bands came within firing
distance of our train. One or two dragoons on foot gave one a chase,
but the buffalo, of course, distanced them. The most amusing scene
was the dog Zack, of the dragoon detachment, dashing into a whole
herd, and following them a considerable distance. Paul Boulieau and
Rummell were both thrown by their horses stumbling in one of the
numerous holes with which the prairie abounds. They were
considerably, though not seriously, hurt.
We arrived at Lake Jessie at three P.M., the bluff shore on which we
encamped being sixty-four feet above the level of the lake. The
water of Lake Jessie is considerably saline in its character; but
about three quarters of a mile from camp, an excellent spring of
good, fresh water was found by Henry Boulieau and myself while out
on a reconnoitring trip.
Between one and two o'clock at night a herd of buffalo approached
our camp, and it required all the exertions of the guard, assisted
by many of the men, to prevent an entire stampede of all our
animals. As it was, some got loose, though none were lost. The
buffalo were followed a considerable distance, and some ten or a
dozen shots were fired before the animals without were entirely
driven off.
July 11. Having proceeded about four miles, a small band of buffalo
started off ahead of us. Le Frambois's horse and four loose mules
near the head of the column started in pursuit, the horse taking the
lead. Boutineau, Le Frambois, Menoc, Guy, Lindner, and Paul
Boulieau, all well mounted, gave chase in hopes of recovering them.
By this time they had mixed up in the herd, and, though they were
followed some twelve or fifteen miles, all efforts to secure them
were unavailing. About a mile farther we encountered a very severe
slough, the approach to which was marked by a very great curiosity
in the form of a buffalo trail; at least 100,000 must have crossed
here by the footprints and marks visible, and I determined on
crossing the slough at the same point which the instinct of these
animals had selected.
July 12. In company with Tinkham and some of the guides, I started
from camp this morning at five o'clock, designing to be in advance
of the train some miles, to reconnoitre and pick out a good road,
our route lying over high hills.
At about eight o'clock I sent off Mr. Tinkham, accompanied by the
two Boulieaus, well mounted, with instructions to go southward,
determining the position of the headwaters of Bald Hillock Creek,
and thus connecting his work with Mr. Lander's reconnoissance;
thence westward in a line nearly parallel with our route of to-day,
making a reconnoissance of the tributaries of the Jacques River
(James), leaving it to his discretion whether to join our camp
to-night or the next day. By this we would secure the reconnoissance
of a belt of country forty miles wide, lying between the Sheyenne
and Jacques (James) rivers.
About eleven miles from camp we crossed a deep slough. About a mile
farther on we crossed a fine little stream which I took to be Beaver
Lodge Creek. Shortly afterwards Boutineau killed a fine buffalo cow,
not twenty feet from the compass line. The dispatch and dexterity
with which these men cut up buffalo is truly astonishing. Before the
cart came up, the animal was entirely butchered, and had only to be
thrown into the cart. We moved forward to-day some sixteen miles,
and camped on the side of a small lake. We had scarcely got into
camp before we were visited by a very severe storm, accompanied by
thunder and lightning. Our fires were put out by the rain, and
during a temporary cessation were built up again; but it soon came
on with increased violence, and our fires were again washed out.
About six o'clock two of Mr. Lander's party who left us on the 4th
arrived in camp, announcing that Mr. Lander and the rest of his men
were only some three or four miles behind, with considerable
difficulty bringing in the horses, which were giving out.[3] I
dispatched two men with led horses to meet them, and about sundown
they came up. We found great difficulty in keeping up our fires so
as to get our supper cooked. The rain fell in torrents, our supply
of wood was limited, and the buffalo chips were so wet as to be
entirely useless.
Towards the close of the day's march I became disabled from my
exertions in endeavoring to keep off a herd of buffalo from the
train, causing an old wound to break out, which compelled me to ride
many hundred miles in the ambulance.
July 13. A very heavy fog this morning delayed our getting off as
early as expected, and the hope of Tinkham and his small party
joining us made me less hurried about starting. Sixteen miles from
camp we struck James River, and crossed over a good ford, from which
point I sent Mr. Lander down the river to examine it. Noticing that
the river ran very nearly in the course of our compass, we followed
it, and again crossing it some five miles above, we encamped. I had
a large amount of rushes collected, with a view of building as large
a camp-fire as practicable, in order to give notice to Tinkham of
our position, he not having returned.
July 14. The missing party not having arrived, three rounds of the
howitzer were fired at sunrise, and we started later than usual. It
was evident that the whole camp was in a great state of anxiety for
the safety of our comrades. Many believed that they had fallen in
with Indians, and were deprived of their horses and their lives.
Taking everything into consideration, I deemed it best to leave a
party at this point so equipped as to combine great energy and force
with promptness of movement, so as to be able to overtake the main
train without difficulty. Accordingly Mr. Lander was left in charge
of the engineer wagon and the wagon belonging to the mountain
howitzer, which was made light enough to be moved with ease forty
miles in a single day. The howitzer was also left with him for the
purpose of making signals. Mr. Doty, with three voyageurs and three
men to manage the howitzer, together with the teamsters of the
ammunition wagon, remained with Mr. Lander, having abundance of
arms, provisions, animals, etc., to supply any emergency. This party
was instructed to keep up fires, to fire three rounds with the
howitzer at noon and at sunset should the party not arrive, and to
communicate with us if any casualty occurred.
A party of four brave and thorough woodsmen, whose knowledge of the
prairie life was derived from experience in many expeditions, and
who well understood the Indian character, were sent out on the route
traveled yesterday, and were directed, after traveling some eight or
ten miles, to leave the road, and, going in different directions, to
plant signals and scour the country. I felt certain that Mr. Tinkham
would be found by these men, if found at all.
The remainder of the train left about seven o'clock, pursuing the
same course as yesterday. The first ten miles was over a level
plateau. We encamped about 4.30 o'clock at the bank of a fine lake,
having made to-day a distance of little over twenty miles. The
mosquitoes were exceedingly annoying, flying against the sides of
the tents with a noise like the pattering of rain, while the inside
was perfectly black with them. Their constant humming drove the men
out into the open air, and rendered it almost impossible to sleep.
July 15. At daybreak Broadwell went back to Lander's camp, and I
dispatched Osgood and Kendall to a high hill to reconnoitre and look
for a new camp. The guides and hunters were also sent on to the
Sheyenne to ascertain the distance, and if not too far we would go
to it. Being very unwell, I laid by all the morning, and the delay
of the train was employed in shoeing the animals, equalizing loads,
and arranging them in such a manner as to give about nine hundred
pounds to each wagon, and so distributed in bulk that a portion of
each wagon could be appropriated to the conveyance of wood and the
meat killed each day.
The men are much interested in the labors of Dr. Suckley, the
naturalist. It is amusing to see each one making his contribution of
snakes, reptiles, birds, bugs, etc.
Near noon Osgood and his party returned, having been to the
Sheyenne, where they found no wood, poor grass, and swarms of
mosquitoes. Soon after the guides returned, announcing that they had
seen a party of Sioux of a thousand lodges, not more than nine miles
in advance of us. Boutineau's manner was full of fear, and his
public announcement spread alarm through the whole camp. I at once
gave orders to make ready, with the intention of visiting their
camp; and, calling Boutineau to my tent, asked him whether they were
not the Red River hunting party. He assured me indignantly that "he
knew half-breeds from Indians, and that they were certainly Sioux."
I suggested that they might be friendly Sioux, who, being engaged in
the hunt and hearing of our approach, were coming forward to meet
us, to receive the usual presents and gratify their curiosity. He
still insisted that they were hostile Sioux, and saw in their
presence the explanation of the cause of the absence of the missing
party. We were, in his opinion, to be surrounded and cut off.
After dinner, as the alarm was spreading throughout the command, the
arms were inspected and ammunition distributed, and orders given to
have the train in readiness to move at once. I sent Boutineau, Le
Frambois, and Menoc to the top of a high ridge as a lookout, while a
flag was prepared to be sent forward if necessary. Word soon came
that the country was alive with Indians, who were fast surrounding
us; and I sent scouts to hills on the right and left, having the
lake to protect our rear. Mounting my horse, I rode to the hill in
front, and saw two horsemen rapidly approaching. Our flag-bearers
rode forward to meet them, and soon discovered that they were two of
the Red River hunters, and that their camp was three miles beyond
the Sheyenne. Having discerned our party, they came to invite us to
visit them, and expressed their kindly feelings for us. The train,
which before this was in motion, arranged in a double line, with the
pack and loose animals between, proceeded two miles, where there was
better water, and encamped.
The agreeable disappointment established a fine feeling throughout
camp; and, half an hour after, Boulieau and Lindner arrived in camp
with news of Tinkham's safety, which was received with three cheers.
The men to-day showed a good spirit, and although there was
naturally some anxiety, they obeyed every order with alacrity. Thus
ended the apprehensions of the command concerning Indians.
RED RIVER HUNTERS.
July 16. Awaited the coming up of the back parties, and during the
morning Tinkham arrived and was received with nine cheers, being
followed soon after by the rest of the rear guard. About two P.M.
the whole Red River train came in sight, and as they approached,
fired a succession of volleys of firearms as a salute, which we
returned with three rounds from the howitzer. The train consisted of
824 carts, about 1200 animals, and 1300 persons, men, women, and
children, the whole presenting a very fine appearance.
They encamped near by, and the close yard which they formed
presented quite a contrast to the open camp adopted by us. They made
a circular or square yard of the carts, placed side by side, with
the hubs adjoining, presenting a barrier impassable either to man or
beast. The tents or lodges were arranged within at a distance of
about twenty feet from the carts, and were of a conical shape, built
of poles covered with skins, with an opening at the top for the
passage of smoke and for ventilation. They were one hundred and four
in number, being occupied generally by two families, averaging about
ten persons to the lodge. Skins were spread over the tops of the
carts, and underneath many of the train found comfortable
lodging-places. The animals were allowed to run loose during the day
to feed, but were driven into the corral at dark. Thirty-six of the
men were posted as sentinels, remaining on guard all night. We had
but twelve guards, three reliefs, not more than four men being on
guard at one time.
As our camps were only about two hundred yards apart, there was much
visiting between them. I was struck with the good conduct and
hospitable kindness of these people. A small band of prairie
Chippewa Indians, who accompanied this party, visited our camp
during the evening, and entertained us with one of their national
dances.
I was much pleased with Governor Wilkie, who is the head of the
expedition. He is a man about sixty years of age, of fine
appearance and pleasant manners. This party are residents of Pembina
and its vicinity. When at home they are engaged in agriculture,
raising wheat, corn, potatoes, and barley. The land yields about
twenty-five bushels of wheat to the acre, their farms averaging
about fifteen acres each. They are industrious and frugal in their
habits, and are mostly of the Romish persuasion, leading a virtuous
and pious life. They are generally accompanied by their priests, and
attend strictly to their devotions, having exercises every Sabbath,
on which day they neither march nor hunt.
Their municipal government is of a parochial character, being
divided into five parishes, each one presided over by an officer
called the captain of the parish. On departing for the hunt, they
select a man from the whole number, who is styled governor of the
hunt, who takes charge of the party, regulates its movements, acts
as referee in all cases where any differences arise between the
members in regard to game or other matters, and takes command in
case of difficulty with the Indians.
In the early part of the year, till the middle of June, these people
work at agriculture, when they set out on their first hunt, leaving
some thirty at the settlements in charge of their farms, houses,
stock, etc. They start out to the southward in search after buffalo,
taking with them their families, carts, and animals. These carts,
when loaded, contain about eight hundred pounds, and are used in
common. There were three hundred and thirty-six men in the present
train, of whom three hundred were hunters. Each hunt, of which there
are two every year, continues about two months, the first starting
in June, the second about the middle of October. Their carts were
already half full, and they expected to return to their homes in the
latter part of August. On their first trip the buffalo are hunted
for the purpose of procuring pemmican, dried meat, tongues, etc.;
the skins, being useless for robes, are dressed for lodge-skins,
moccasins, etc. In October the meat is still better and fatter, and
they procure a like quantity of dried meat, reserving sufficient for
a year's provisions, which is about one half of the whole amount
procured; they dispose of the rest at the trading-posts of the
Hudson Bay Company. The meat which they carry home finds its way,
through the Red River traders of the Fur Company, to Fort Snelling,
where it is exchanged for goods, sugar, coffee, etc., at the rate of
fifteen cents a pound.
The trade of this country is all in dry-goods, sugar, tea,
ammunition, etc. Notes are also issued by the Hudson Bay Company,
which are currency among them. Several of these, of the denomination
of five shillings, payable at York Factory and bearing the signature
of Sir George Simpson, were offered in change to various members of
the expedition on purchasing articles. The skins collected in the
summer hunt are usually retained by the hunters for their own use,
while the robes collected in the fall hunt are a staple of trade
with the Fur Company, and also with the Hudson Bay Company, which
latter company do a large business in this portion of the country,
supplying the settlers with most of their clothes, groceries, etc.
The Red River settlements are made up of a population of
half-breeds, traders of the Hudson Bay and Fur Companies, discharged
employees of these companies, and Indians, representatives of every
nation of Europe,--Scotch, Irish, English, Canadians,--and speaking
a jargon made up of these dialects, intermingled with Chippewa and
Sioux, patois French being the prevailing tongue. These settlements,
started some twenty-five years since, now number, in the vicinity of
Pembina Mountain, some four thousand people. The men are generally
much finer looking than the women. On the latter depend all the
drudgery of camp duties, pitching the tents, attending to animals,
cooking, etc. The men dress usually in woolens of various colors.
The coat generally worn, called the Hudson Bay coat, has a capote
attached to it. The belts are finely knit, of differently colored
wool or worsted yarn, and are worn after the manner of sashes. Their
powder-horn and shot-bag, attached to bands finely embroidered with
beads or worked with porcupine quills, are worn across each
shoulder, making an X before and behind. Many also have a
tobacco-pouch strung to their sashes, in which is tobacco mixed with
kinnickinnick (dried bark of the osier willow scraped fine), a
fire-steel, punk, and several flints. Add to these paraphernalia a
gun, and a good idea will be formed of the costume of the Red River
hunter. The women are industrious, dress in gaudy calicoes, are
fond of beads and finery, and are remarkably apt at making
bead-work, moccasins, and sewing.
We purchased from the train a supply of pemmican, dried meat, sugar,
and other things, some of the men buying moccasins, whips, and other
necessaries.
I engaged the services of Alexis Le Bombard, who was in company with
this encampment, as guide to the Yellowstone. He came from the
Yellowstone this season, and the impression gathered from my
interview with him, as well as the representations of others,
satisfied me that he will be extremely valuable as a guide.
July 18. Started a few minutes before seven, still following the
trail of the Red River train. About eight o'clock we crossed a
branch of the Sheyenne, flowing through a deep valley with an
extended plateau, bounded on both sides by the high coteau. This
stream appears to take its rise in a number of small lakes, and the
branch crossed this morning is slightly brackish. Many of the lakes
are very salt. These appear to have no outlet, and their saline
qualities are accounted for by the fact that they are never washed
out, and consequently retain the salt deposits and incrustations. We
often notice in this region lakes lying very close to each other, in
some cases not more than twenty yards apart; one will be so saline
as to be offensive, while the water of the other will be excellent
to the taste. We passed to-day a narrow lake, some three miles in
length, somewhat resembling a canal. It lay at the foot of a high
hill, called the Butte de Morale. Here occurred an engagement
between some half-breeds and Sioux, in which one of the former, by
the name of Morale, was killed; hence its name. The altitude of this
butte, as determined by barometric measurement, is 281.8 feet above
the level of the Sheyenne River.
Our way was strewn with the carcasses of many buffaloes killed by
the Red River hunting party. At times the air was very much tainted.
One of our men reported having ridden through a section of land, a
quarter of a mile square, on which were strewn the remains of some
three hundred buffaloes. In killing these animals, only the choice
bits and hides are taken, and the remainder is left as a prey to
wolves, or to rot on the ground.
We had wood to-day, for the first time since leaving Lake Jessie,
our fuel in the mean time consisting of greasewood and buffalo
chips. The sight of a camp-fire of wood is quite a treat to us. Our
camp is beautifully located on a range of hills, nearly surrounded
with salt lakes, called the White Wood Lakes. An excellent spring
near by furnishes us an abundant supply of cold, fresh water. The
odometer line measured to-day was twenty and a half miles. That
pursued by the train was probably two miles longer.
July 19. Our course lay over a level country. After proceeding ten
miles we crossed a branch of the Sheyenne River, at this time very
shallow, but the high banks on each side, together with the grass
and deposits, gave evidence of its size during the freshets in the
spring. After traveling sixteen and one half miles, we encamped near
a small lake in sight of the Maison du Chien, which by bearings and
calculation Mr. Tinkham estimated to be about twenty-one miles
distant. We passed on the march several salt-marshes abounding with
tadpoles, from which the effluvia was very offensive. In some places
the ground was covered with deposits of salt to the depth of a
quarter of an inch. I am much pleased with our new guide, Le
Bombard, who appears to have a very accurate knowledge of the
country, although his ideas of distance are not found to be very
reliable, which is generally the case with voyageurs.
July 20. Fitted out Lander's party, consisting of himself, Le
Frambois, Guy, and Rummell, to make a reconnoissance of Butte Maison
du Chien and the Coteau du Missouri, to connect our work with
Lieutenant Grover's survey, and join us on the Mouse River in four
days. We moved off about half past six, and after traveling five
miles reached the first tributary of the Mouse River. The crossing
occupied nearly three hours, the water being shoulder deep; half the
wagon-loads were removed and carried across in the india-rubber
boat. The road was generally very good, passing over a level prairie
intersected with lakes and sloughs. About twelve miles from camp we
struck a beautiful ridge, resembling a railroad embankment, which
lay directly in our compass course; on the top of this the train
moved for some miles. We passed around the first coulee of the Mouse
River, and after a march of some seventeen miles (odometer
measurement, 15.7), encamped on the bank of a small lake.
July 21. Left camp at six A.M. It commenced raining about nine, and
lasted an hour or more. About eight miles from camp we saw the
tracks of Grover's train in a slough, by which we judged that he had
passed some days previous. Soon after this we crossed one of the
coulees making into Mouse River. These coulees are very severe on
the animals, in some places being very steep. We traveled to-day
sixteen miles. Our camp is located on the top of a ridge, which
descends into a coulee. We are about one hundred and fifty feet
above the valley of Mouse River. There is plenty of timber in the
coulee which we are to cross to-morrow in starting.
July 22. Left camp about 6.30 o'clock, and found the crossing of the
coulee, about half a mile to our left. On the other side of the
coulee we have a fine level plateau ahead. The grand Coteau du
Missouri was in sight all day. The depth of the first coulee, as
indicated by the barometer, was eighty-two feet below our camp.
About four miles out we crossed another severe coulee one hundred
and eight feet below the level of our camp. The third coulee was a
depression of fifty-four feet, the prairie level being some
forty-two feet lower than the level of our last camp.
While making our usual midday halt we were overtaken by two hunters
of the Red River train from the vicinity of the Selkirk settlements,
who were encamped some eight miles distant. They invited me to visit
them, which I determined upon doing, and, placing the train in
charge of Dr. Suckley, I gave him directions to move on some eight
miles, find a good camping place, and await my return.
July 23. During my absence this morning Dr. Suckley sent Le Bombard
and Sergeant Lindner ahead some twelve miles to reconnoitre for a
good road for the train; Messrs. Tinkham and Burr went to the Mouse
River, and Mr. Moffett, accompanied by Broadwell, went to the Grand
Coteau.
I sent Guy and Rummell ahead to Dr. Suckley's camp to apprise him of
our coming. At about four o'clock, accompanied by Governor de L'Orme
and seven of his principal men, we started towards Dr. Suckley's
camp. The whole force of the survey, headed by Dr. Suckley,
Sergeant Lindner bearing an American flag, met us about a mile out
of camp, and saluted us with a volley from their guns, the mountain
howitzer being fired three times. A large tent was put up for the
accommodation of our guests, and Governor de L'Orme was invited to
share my tent. The guard tent was made use of as a banqueting-room,
and several of the men were detailed to collect buffalo chips. The
cooks of the various messes assisted each other, and the meal was
ready for us about nine o'clock. Tinkham and Burr got in just in
time to partake of it with us, as also did Moffett and Broadwell.
Mr. Moffett reported the height of the bluff or Coteau range as
seven hundred and two feet above the level of Mouse River, and
distant twenty miles from it; the height of the hill seven miles
from the camp of to-day is two hundred and fifty-six feet.
Seated around the camp-fire, we had a very pleasant conference with
our friends. I was very favorably impressed with Governor de L'Orme,
and with his opinion in regard to their right to hunt on our
territory, they being residents of the country north of our boundary
line. They claim the protection of both governments, and the doubt
as to the position of the boundary line makes them ignorant as to
which one they have the most claim upon. During the hunting season
they carry with them their families and their property, and they
consider that this territory is open to them, that the right to hunt
on it belongs to them, and that their children born during this
transit over our soil possess the heritage of American citizens.
With but little care, our government could obtain the whole of these
people as citizens, thus protecting and building up our frontier,
and having in this vicinity always a controlling check upon the
Indians. Already is the salutary effect of their presence visible in
the entire safety, now, with which single white men and small
parties can go through this country. Their virtuous mode of life,
their industry and frugality, their adaptation to frontier life, all
combine to render them a valuable class of people, and well worthy
the attention of our government. They expressed a desire that I
should represent these things to the government, and I assured them
that I would do so with pleasure. Governor de L'Orme, before
retiring to rest, attended to his devotions, and I have been struck
with his piety and real goodness, manifested in his conduct and
conversation.
July 24. We took a late breakfast this morning, and after parting
with our guests we got off at nine A.M. We halted for two hours at
noon, during which time the hunters went out and drove a herd of
buffalo towards us, and right on the line killed two fine cows. I
sent Mr. Tinkham and Paul Boulieau out to the Mouse River, which
they followed some distance, as also the River of the Lakes, joining
us at camp at eight P.M. We made fifteen miles and a quarter to-day,
and the grazing is excellent.
July 25. The express started this morning at six for Fort Union,
which I think cannot be over one hundred and fifty miles distant. It
consists of Mr. Osgood, Boutineau, Henry Boulieau, and Gray. They
are to procure additional wagons or carts at Fort Union, and carry
letters to Lieutenants Grover and Donelson. Messrs. Tinkham, Lander,
and Paul Boulieau went to-day to make an examination of the Mouse
River valley and the River of the Lakes. We had but one coulee to
cross, and that was shallow, and offered no impediment. We made
to-day twenty-one miles, and found fine grass and excellent water at
our camp.
July 26. We started this morning about six o'clock, and, traveling
eleven and one half miles, we halted on the bank of a lake. A herd
of buffalo approached on the south side of this lake to drink, and
crossed within gunshot on the opposite side. Some of our party fired
at them, and Le Bombard followed, and killed a fine, fat cow. About
seven miles farther on I received a letter from Mr. Osgood by the
hands of an Assiniboine Indian. The express party camped last night
about ten miles ahead of this place at a large encampment of
Assiniboine Indians, numbering some one hundred and fifty lodges and
twelve hundred persons. The Indians built for them a lodge in the
centre of their camp, and treated them with great hospitality. One
of them offered to act as Mr. Osgood's express, and he told them
that on my arrival I would have a talk with them and make them some
presents. By this note I also learned that Lieutenant Grover had
passed some eight miles to the east of our line about four days ago.
July 27. Reaching camp a little after noon, fifteen miles from last
night's camp, and about a quarter of a mile from that of the
Assiniboines, numbers of Indians rode out to welcome us. We found
them to be under the command of the chiefs Blue Thunder and Little
Thunder, the latter probably thirty-six years of age. As soon as we
were encamped, they informed me that they had reserved a present of
skins for me, and were making preparations to have a talk. While
dinner was being prepared, many seated themselves in squads around
the tents, smoking with the men. One large pipe served a dozen, and
the custom adopted is to smoke it a little and pass it to their
neighbor, and thus go round. It is the first signal of welcome or
friendship after the hand is offered, and they will have no business
or other transaction previous to it.
After dinner, accompanied by Dr. Suckley, Messrs. Stanley, Lander,
Tinkham, Everett, Evans, Adams, Menoc, with Paul Boulieau, Le
Bombard, and Le Frambois as interpreters, I went to their camp,
which was irregularly arranged in a sort of corral, consisting of
about one hundred and fifty lodges, averaging ten persons to each
lodge.
Our approach was hailed by the barking of an immense number of dogs.
These dogs are a prominent feature in every Indian camp, being used
for drawing lodges, provisions, and property from place to
place,--indeed, furnishing the entire transportation of the Indians
in winter. A sledge drawn by four dogs will carry two hundred pounds
over the snow with great ease. They appeared also to be abundantly
supplied with horses, many of which were of good quality. All the
women and children turned out of the lodges as we passed, curious to
see us. Frames of poles stood around, upon which skins and meat were
drying. Yet, in spite of the appearance of plenty, all had a look of
poverty, judging from the meagreness of clothing and the length of
time it appeared to have been worn, while all appeared very filthy
and miserable.
A very large lodge, about fifty feet in diameter, had been erected
for our reception in the centre of the inclosure, within which we
found seated two circles of chiefs, braves, warriors, and others. At
the back of the lodge was arranged a long seat for us, consisting of
a pile of skins, which were afterwards presented to me.
There were about eighty persons present, including our own party.
During the preparation for the ceremonial reception, there was a
general smoking among all present, during which an old man, one of
the dignitaries of the tribe, prepared the pipe of reception, only
smoked on great occasions. The stem was decked with ribbons of
various colors, and when it stood obliquely, feathers would drop
down like the wing of a bird. At the lower end of this pipe, where
it enters the bowl, was a duck's head. The pipe-stem was supported
against a small stick stuck in the ground and crotched at the end.
The pipe was turned towards the sun, the invariable practice in such
cases. Some sweet grass, platted, was then set on fire and used in
the manner of incense, both to the bowl and the stem. After lighting
the pipe with the scented grass, it was planted near by in a small
hole and burned.
During the smoking the bearer of the pipe shook hands with each
member of our party, handing the pipe after this ceremony was over.
Then a bowl of water was handed around by a second individual, who
also shook hands with each one of us before we drank of the contents
of the bowl. Next came the eating of soup, made of buffalo and
typsina, a species of turnip, which was rich and greasy but quite
palatable. Soon after this ceremony, which completed the reception,
an old man advanced to me and shook hands, after which he shook the
hand of each member of our company. His appearance was much in his
favor, carrying himself with great dignity. With considerable
fluency, and at times with many gestures, he addressed me
substantially as follows:
"My father, you see us now as we are. We are poor. We have but few
blankets and little clothing. The Great Father of Life, who made
us and gave us these lands to live upon, made the buffalo and
other game to afford us subsistence; their meat is our only food;
with their skins we clothe ourselves and build our lodges. They
are our only means of life, food, fuel, and clothing. But I fear
we shall soon be deprived of these; starvation and cold will
destroy us. The buffalo are fast disappearing, and before many
years will be destroyed. As the white man advances, our means of
life will grow less. We will soon have to seek protection in our
poverty from the Great Father, who can so well supply it.
"My father, we hear that a great road is to be made through our
country. We do not know what this is for, we do not understand it,
but we think it will drive away the buffalo. We like to see our
white brothers; we like to give them the hand of friendship; but
we know that, as they come, our game goes back. What are we to
do?"
After shaking hands with all of us he sat down, and after a short
interval of silence the chief, through his interpreter, signified a
desire to hear me reply.
I explained that the road to be made from the Mississippi to the
Pacific would not injure the Indians, nor deprive them of comforts;
that whites would settle along the line, and, though they would
drive off the buffalo, they would also supply other articles in
place of them. They would receive from the President implements of
agriculture, and learn to till the soil, so as to obtain food with
less labor than now.
I told them that I would go through the lands of the Blackfeet and
other Indians beyond the Yellowstone, carrying the friendly messages
of the Great Father, and insisting on peace among all, to secure the
safety of the whites. My remarks seemed to make a very favorable
impression, and were received with every mark of respect. Their
approbation was shown, as each paragraph was interpreted, by the
ejaculation "How!" a common word, answering every purpose of
salutation, approval, or concurrence.
The present they gave me consisted of thirty-two dressed skins and
two robes.
We spent about half an hour in going around among the various
lodges, and then returned to our camp, being followed by the whole
encampment. During the time we were engaged in inspecting their
camp, they became aware of the profession of Dr. Suckley, and there
was scarcely a lodge that did not contain some patient for his
medical attention. The doctor vaccinated some eight or nine, and
through Le Frambois explained its object. It was near dusk when the
party arrived at our camp and were arranged to receive their
presents. They were seated around in the form of three sides of a
square, the open side being opposite the places occupied by our
party, the chief, and higher order of the Indians. At each of the
four corners was posted a brave or chief. These men never receive a
gift, considering it a degradation to receive anything but what
their own prowess acquires for them. Their hearts are so good and
strong that they scorn to take anything, and self-denial and the
power to resist temptation to luxury, or easily acquired property,
is a boast with them. On these men in time of peace, when
difficulties occur among themselves, the tribe relies, and in time
of war they are their leaders to the scene of action. To two old men
of the tribe was assigned the duty of making the distribution, and
the presents were placed in the centre of the area. During the whole
distribution the Indians sat in perfect silence. All seemed
satisfied with the articles they received, and not a grumble escaped
one of them. After this was over they returned to their camp, the
chiefs and braves remaining. At half past eight we had a collation
of coffee and bread in our mess tent, and remained till a late hour,
smoking and conversing. Soon after this our friends left, myself and
the interpreters escorting them outside the sentinels. I was much
pleased with these Indians, and they seemed to be very favorably
inclined towards the whites, and sincere in their professions of
friendship. Nothing to-day of the slightest value has been missed,
as far as I can learn.
July 28. It was very late this morning before we started, being
occupied in fitting out a party, consisting of Mr. Lander, Dr.
Suckley, Mr. Burr, and Corporal Rummell, with instructions to strike
the Pierced Rock on Mouse River, and make a careful examination for
coal and iron. They were to explore the White Earth River, examine
the Coteau du Missouri, and, reaching the 49th parallel, make a
detour to the northwest, and arrive at the Yellowstone in some three
or four days.
Four days later, on August 1, after a march of eighty miles along the
Mouse River and the River of the Lakes, they reached Fort Union. As the
broad Missouri and its beautiful bluff banks dotted with timber came
into view, the whole party gave three cheers. Lieutenants Donelson and
Grover, who had already arrived at the fort, and Mr. Denig, the trader
in charge, came out to meet them. The governor mounted his horse, for
the first time since the false alarm about the Sioux, and received them
with a salute of a volley of small-arms, which was answered by thirteen
guns from the fort. News was brought of the death of sapper White, of
Donelson's party, by the accidental discharge of a gun in his own hands.
Camp was soon pitched, and the whole party assembled at the governor's
tent.
"I congratulated them on the zealous performance of their duty, gave
them a cordial invitation to go on, and whatever their
determination, even should they leave us here, promised them an
honorable discharge. All seemed desirous of going on, and not one
availed himself of the opportunity to leave the expedition.
"By the great vigilance exercised on the march, the animals had been
constantly improving, gaining flesh and becoming cured of sores, so
that, though we started from the Mississippi with forty disabled
animals, all but one were serviceable on our arrival at Fort Union.
"The whole distance from St. Paul to Fort Union is by odometer
measurement 715.5 miles, and we had accomplished it in 55 days, and,
excluding halts from time to time, in 48 traveling days. The rate of
traveling was therefore about 15 miles a day, most of the way over a
country almost unknown, without roads, and with such an imperfect
knowledge of the distances to be made between camps as to cramp our
movements much more than if the route had been measured and
itineraries constructed for our use."
FOOTNOTES:
[3] Lander, it seems, was an inveterate horse-killer, and almost
always returned from his trips with his animal badly used up.
Buffalo chips are the dried dung frequently used on the plains
as a substitute for fuel where there is no wood.