THE PARTY.--THE START
Leaving Washington May 9, and, after spending a day in New York to
complete arrangements, going by way of Detroit and Chicago, Governor
Stevens reached St. Louis on the 15th. Here he was disappointed in
finding the outfits not so far advanced as he expected, and was even
seriously alarmed at the mules furnished by the St. Louis quartermaster,
which were only three or four years old, and perfectly wild and
unbroken. This was the more inexcusable from the fact that he had
previously sent Mr. Charles Taplin to St. Louis with instructions that
only well-broken and serviceable animals were to be procured.
Consequently he remained there a week hastening the necessary outfits,
during which time he started Lieutenant Donelson's party up the Missouri
on the American Fur Company's steamboat with Lieutenant Mullan, Mr.
William H. Graham, and six sappers, and 10,000 rations. Dr. John Evans
and Mr. Alexander Culbertson also accompanied them. The latter, having
spent twenty years on the upper Missouri as a fur-trader and married a
Blackfoot squaw, had great influence over that warlike tribe. He was
appointed by Governor Stevens as special agent for these predatory and
intractable savages, and sent forward to prepare the way for the
expedition through their country by securing guides and hunters and
arranging for a council.
Leaving St. Louis on the 23d and proceeding up the Mississippi, Governor
Stevens, in order to repair the neglect of the quartermaster, purchased
at the several landings and at Galena a number of teams of strong,
well-broken mules and horses, in some instances taking them off the
wagons where they were at work. Four days were spent on the Father of
Waters.
"Leaving Galena on the 25th," says the governor, "on the steamer
Nominee, we proceeded up the river, and were enabled to make short
stops at Dubuque, Prairie du Chien, Lansing, La Crosse, and other
places. Intervals of leisure were employed in reporting fully to the
War and Interior Departments my proceedings thus far, and the
arrangements in contemplation for the execution of my several
trusts. The scenery on the Mississippi is bold and at times
beautiful, though but little variety is presented. Bluff banks on
both sides, topped with trees, line its banks, and occasionally
marked views occur, among which I might mention as most prominent
Lake Pepin, Maiden Rock, Barn Bluffs, etc.
"St. Paul is beautifully situated upon a high bluff on the east bank
of the river, and is rapidly growing in size and importance."
St. Paul is said in the report to have then had a population of 1200.
While on the Nominee, Governor Stevens writes a letter of eight pages to
his wife's brother, Mr. Daniel L. Hazard, who had had much experience
with Mississippi boats,--but was then at Newport recovering from
malarial illness,--on the draught, power, and size of steamboats
suitable for the navigation of the upper Missouri, and suggests to him
the opportunity for steamboating on Puget Sound, concluding with the
following remarks, showing his own feelings towards the new country, and
how completely he was adopting it:--
"I have no doubt that it is one of the most delightful and
salubrious regions in the whole country, with all the health of
Newport, but with a grandeur and largeness of scenery far surpassing
it. It is just such a place as I have for many years proposed to
myself, one of these days, to carve out a home. I am satisfied my
family will all be pleased with their new home, and that we will be
willing to settle down there for life."
Long before daylight the next morning after reaching St. Paul, Governor
Stevens was in the saddle, riding to the camp established by Captain
Gardiner two days before, and had the pleasure of rousing the gentlemen
of the expedition from their sleep. The camp was situated on the borders
of Lake Amelia, about nine miles from St. Paul and about three northwest
from Fort Snelling, and, in honor of the President, the governor named
it Camp Pierce.
"About a quarter of a mile to the eastward lay another lake,
connected with Lake Amelia by a creek, which was very convenient for
watering our animals, and formed a fine meadow on which they grazed.
These lakes furnished us with fish in abundance, consisting of bass,
pickerel, and sunfish.
"The mules presented a fine appearance, and were apparently strong
and healthy, though young, and even more unbroken and unserviceable
than I had feared. Not a single full team of broken animals could be
selected, and well-broken riding animals were essential, for most of
the gentlemen of the scientific corps were unaccustomed to riding. I
felt that time was precious and a great difficulty to be overcome,
so at once resolved that the whole force should set to work to break
them. Fortunately, my purchase of mules along the river enabled me
to break in the animals rapidly to the teams, by which they were
started several days earlier than otherwise could have been done."
A letter of George W. Stevens gives the following amusing account of the
scenes which occurred when every man, by the governor's order, set to
work to break his own mule:--
"Of the 200 mules received, much to the chagrin and disappointment
of the major, not ten of them were broken. But though the unbroken
and unqualified age of our young mules presented a hindrance, the
major has the more vigorously cut out his plans. In a week's time,
of very hard labor on the part of the men, we were able to move.
Even the members of the scientific corps put their shoulders to the
wheel, and each gentleman broke his own riding animal. The operation
of breaking these most stubborn of creatures was highly exciting and
interesting. First they were tolled into a corral by leading in the
bell mare, which they follow with the most laughable devotion. Then
lassos were thrown over their necks, and after a long process of
choking and hauling they were sufficiently exhausted to allow
themselves to be led out and tied to a long picket rope stretched
across stakes some four feet high. They did not at all relish the
feeling of the rope about their necks, and such capers as they cut
up, turning summersets 'both before and behind,' throwing themselves
upon the ground, and jumping and doubling themselves with all the
agility of the cat. At length nearly all of the 200 were tied to the
picket rope, and, after a sufficiently elapsed interval to regain
their minds and strength, the same antics were gone through with
again. Some leaped over the ropes, some tangled themselves with
their lariats. Breaking them to the saddle proved highly
interesting. After breakfast each morning we all went out and
saddled our own animals, and spent an hour or two in a _pleasant
drive_. Behold some fifteen or twenty of us mounted; off we start,
and in a moment all sorts of scenes are being enacted. Here one is
thrown headforemost; here one is borne through the air with
lightning speed, fortunate if not brushed off beneath the scrubby
oaks. Some of the mules lie down, and some persist in running among
a number of picketed animals, and tangling themselves in the
lariats; the riders--however good--are sent 'bounding through the
air.' I had a truly tough job in breaking my animal. Every time I
mounted her I was sure to be thrown, and it was not until some
weeks' march that she became well trained, but afterwards there was
not a better-broken mule in the train. Many were badly beaten and
bruised in the breaking operation, and certainly a whole month's
delay in our arrival at Fort Union was the result of the selection
of these young, unbroken animals by the St. Louis quartermaster."
The next few days the rains were almost incessant; but, says the
governor, June 1:--
"Although it rained heavily all day, every one in camp was engaged
in breaking mules, causing many an amusing scene. Several of the
party were thrown repeatedly, but the determination they evince must
overcome all obstacles; and I feel not only pleased to see their
spirit, but to congratulate myself and them that no accident has
occurred worthy of mention. Much hilarity was produced by the
efforts of different persons, and each fall occasioned a laugh. Thus
what I had seriously expected to prove a great difficulty was, in
the midst of heavy rains and gloomy weather, a source of mirthful
enjoyment."
The main party here organized, including a few members who joined soon
after starting, consisted of Governor Isaac I. Stevens; Lieutenant
Cuvier Grover, 4th artillery; Lieutenant Beekman Du Barry, 3d artillery;
detachment of four sappers; detachment of twenty men, 1st dragoons;
Fred. W. Lander, A.W. Tinkham, civil engineers; Dr. George Suckley,
surgeon and naturalist; Isaac F. Osgood, disbursing agent; J.M. Stanley,
artist; John Lambert, topographer; George W. Stevens, secretary and
astronomer; James Doty, A. Remenyi, astronomical and magnetic
observations; Joseph F. Moffett, meteorologist; T.S. Everett,
quartermaster and commissary clerk; Elwood Evans, Thomas Adams, F.H.
Burr, Max Strobel, A. Jekelfaluzy, B.F. Kendall, ---- Evelyn, aides;
C.P. Higgins, wagon-master; William Simpson, pack-master; Pierre
Boutineau, Le Frambois, Belland, Henry Boulieau, Paul Boulieau, guides;
Menoc, hunter; and sixty teamsters, packers, and voyageurs, numbering
altogether one hundred and eleven members. Captain Gardiner was relieved
from duty in consequence of illness, and did not accompany the
expedition.
The pay was certainly moderate: $125 for Mr. Stanley, the artist; $100
to the civil engineers, Lander and Tinkham; and $25 to each aide, per
month.
The subsidiary party, ascending the Missouri to Fort Union, where it was
to join the main party, consisted of Lieutenant A.J. Donelson, engineer
corps; Lieutenant John Mullan, 1st artillery; six sappers; William M.
Graham, astronomer; Dr. John Evans, geologist; Alexander Culbertson,
special Indian agent.
The other subsidiary party, which met the main party in the Rocky
Mountains, consisted of Lieutenant Rufus Saxton, 4th artillery;
Lieutenant Robert Macfeely, 4th infantry; Lieutenant Richard Arnold, 3d
artillery; Mr. D.L. Arnold; Mr. D.S. Hoyt; detachment of eighteen
soldiers; twenty-nine packers, herders, etc.,--in all, fifty-two.
The western party consisted of Lieutenant George B. McClellan;
Lieutenant Johnson K. Duncan, 3d artillery, astronomer, etc.; Lieutenant
Henry C. Hodges, 4th infantry, quartermaster and commissary; Lieutenant
Sylvester Mowry, 3d artillery, meteorologist; George Gibbs, geologist
and ethnologist; J.F. Minter, civil engineer; Dr. J.C. Cooper, surgeon
and naturalist; Mr. Lewis, interpreter; detachment of twenty-eight
soldiers; thirty civil employees,--in all, sixty-six in number.
The entire force under Governor Stevens's command for the exploration
comprised eleven officers and seventy-six enlisted men of the army,
thirty-three members of the scientific corps, and one hundred and twenty
civilian employees, teamsters, packers, guides, herders, voyageurs,
etc.,--altogether, some two hundred and forty.
Governor Stevens's general plan was, while surveying a continuous
compass and odometer line with the principal train, to keep detached
parties far out on the sides of the route, examining the topography of
the country, and gathering all possible information concerning it, and
thus to embrace the widest possible field in the exploration. The
following pages will give simply the governor's personal experiences on
the expedition, and largely in his own language, referring the reader to
his reports, especially the final report in vol. xii., for the details
of this most interesting exploration.
"As rapidly as the breaking-in of the mules and heavy rains for half
the time allowed, the expedition moved seventy miles up the
Mississippi in detachments, crossed to the west bank, and on June 10
were again assembled on the Sauk River, two miles above its mouth,
in Camp Davis, so named in honor of the Secretary of War. In this
first movement of the expedition on the 31st, Lander was sent ahead
to explore, and Tinkham to run the survey line. Doty on June 3, and
Simpson on 4th, took the route with small trains, with such animals
as were sufficiently broken in to be worked, and on the 6th Camp
Pierce was broken up, and the remainder of the force followed in
three parties, Grover with the scientific men and instruments by
steamboat, Du Barry with Stanley, Dr. Suckley and sixteen dragoons,
and Everett with the train, both these by land up the east bank of
the river. Thus, despite the mules and the weather, the least
possible time was lost in starting afield, and the young
subordinates were being taught to command and operate detachments,
which the governor regarded as of great importance, 'in order to
infuse hope into the whole party, and avail myself of the present
high spirit of the camp.'"
Having seen the several parties started off, and the camp broken up, the
governor continues:--
I remained at St. Anthony until noon of June 7 to secure the
services of several voyageurs, and particularly of the guide Pierre
Boutineau and the hunter Menoc, in which I was successful, and
starting about noon, and taking a rapid conveyance, I pushed forward
the same day forty miles, overtaking at Rum River Lieutenant Du
Barry, and, some miles beyond, both Doty and Simpson, and reaching
Sauk Rapids, a distance of thirty miles farther, by eleven A.M.,
found Mr. Tinkham actively engaged in the survey of that portion of
the river. The crossing at St. Anthony is by a rope ferry, its
motive power being the action of the current, having a short rope at
the bow and a longer or slack rope astern. On the west side of the
Mississippi, about three miles above Rum River, there was a large
encampment of Winnebago Indians, consisting of about one hundred
lodges. These are constructed of oak bark, fastened by strips of
buckskin over arched poles, resembling in shape the cover of a
wagon; they are about eight feet high, and from ten to thirty feet
long, according to the number of families to be accommodated. The
chief's lodge in the centre is much larger, and distinguished by the
flags upon it, two British and two American colors. The shores are
lined with canoes, and the village extends an eighth of a mile along
the river. The country, for the first seven miles after leaving camp
and striking the St. Anthony road, is a wet prairie. After leaving
St. Anthony the country appears to rise towards the north; the road
lies on the eastern bank of the Mississippi, along the plateau,
which is generally timbered with the smaller varieties of oak, in
some places forming beautiful groves. On the road, and at Sauk
Rapids, several additional men were engaged, among them some
Canadian voyageurs. These men, being sometimes half-breeds, speak a
jargon of patois French, Chippewa, and other Indian dialects. They
are a hardy, willing, enduring class, and used to encounter all
sorts of difficulties in their journey between different posts of
the fur companies. They must be treated with kindness and a certain
degree of familiarity, and, their confidence and affections being
secured, they are the most obedient and hard-working fellows in the
world. This morning I learned that Lieutenant Grover and his
steamboat party had landed late last evening about five miles below
Sauk River, and had there encamped. In the afternoon, accompanied by
Boutineau, I crossed the Mississippi to find him, and went three
miles in a drenching rain without reaching his position.
I dispatched Henry Boulieau in search of Lander, and he returned
with the information that Lander was about eighteen miles ahead at
Cold Spring, and that he had made there a good crossing for wagons.
June 9. I went to Mr. Lander's camp, and examined the crossing,
which I find to be practicable, and the work well done.
June 10. I returned to Lieutenant Grover's camp, which was
beautifully situated on the north bank of the Osakis or Sauk River,
about two miles from its mouth. The grass was indifferent and
backward, but, with half rations of oats, abundant for the animals;
water excellent. In honor of the Secretary of War, we named it Camp
Davis. Lieutenant Du Barry arrived this afternoon with his party, as
did the small trains of Doty and Simpson. A very severe
thunderstorm, with heavy rain for about five hours, occurred at
night, amounting in the rain-gauge to 6.1 inches.
My acquaintance with the voyageurs, thus far, has impressed me
favorably. They are thorough woodsmen, and just the men for prairie
life also, going into the water as pleasantly as a spaniel, and
remaining there as long as needed; stout, able-bodied, and willing
to put their shoulders to the wheel whenever necessary; no slough or
bog deters them.
Camp Davis, two miles west of the Mississippi River,
June 10, 1853.
MY DEAREST WIFE,--We are getting on finely. Camp Pierce was broken
up on Monday, and in five days we have gone up the river seventy
miles, and the bulk of the party is now west of the Mississippi.
Yesterday I rode forward twenty-six miles to the crossing of the
Sauk River to make arrangements for the advance of the civil
engineer party. I had previously traveled rapidly from St. Anthony
to Sauk Rapids in a carriage, passing all the parties on the road.
It was a beautiful ride all the way, and I had a most interesting
companion in Pierre Boutineau, the great guide and voyageur of
Minnesota. He is famous as a buffalo-hunter, is a Chippewa
half-breed, and surpasses all of his class in truthfulness and great
intelligence. Not only is he experienced in all the vicissitudes of
travel and frontier life, being the hero of many interesting events,
but he has the broadness of view of an engineer, and I am confident
he will be of the greatest service to us in finding our way. At the
Falls of St. Anthony, where he resides, he is greatly esteemed, and
is known throughout the Territory. I breakfasted with him Monday
morning, and was delighted with the affection and respect with which
he inspired his whole household. There was his old Indian mother;
his four children by his first wife, a half-breed; his second wife
and babe; his sister; his brother and wife; and the wife of an
absent brother. We all sat down to a breakfast of two roasted
sucking-pigs, eggs, beefsteak, etc. He is a natural gentleman, and
in his family I saw exhibited the most refined and courteous
manners.
He drove a pair of very spirited horses, and on the road, seeing
some plover, he called them to him and shot one. He understands, as
Mr. Sibley in Washington told me, everything from shooting a bird or
paddling a canoe to hunting buffalo, and conducting a large party
through a long extent of difficult country. I have also secured
Menoc, the best hunter of the Territory. He joins the party
to-morrow, and will in ten days be able to supply us with deer and
elk.
June 12. Messrs. Osgood and Kendall reached camp this morning with
the barometers and india-rubber boats. At St. Louis I was
telegraphed that many of the barometers had been broken, and they
could not be supplied short of New York. They were absolutely
indispensable. I sent Mr. Kendall there immediately, and in thirty
days the boats and instruments were made and brought to my camp,
eighty miles on our way. Mr. Everett also arrived about noon to-day.
I regretted to observe that many of his animals were in very bad
condition. Of our whole number some forty were disabled, and eight
or ten so much so as to give very little hope that they could do any
further service. I refused, however, to sell even these to the many
applicants who expressed a willingness to take them off our hands
below the cost of purchase. Assembling both officers and men to-day,
I caused to be read the camp regulations, which I had prepared for
the government of the party, and made a short address, in which I
informed them that every man would be expected to look to the safety
of his comrades; that all alike, whether soldier or civilian, would
be expected to stand guard, and in case of difficulties to meet them
promptly. I exaggerated the difficulties which lay before us, and
represented that the country through which they would pass was
intersected by bogs, marshes, and deep morasses; that rivers were to
be forded and bridged, mountains and valleys to be crossed; that the
first one hundred and eighty miles of the journey was reported to
be through a continuous marsh, barely practicable, where every man
would have to go through mud and water and apply his shoulders to
the wheel; that in ten days we would reach the Indian country, where
heavy guard duty would have to be performed to protect property and
preserve lives; that still farther on we would probably be compelled
to force our way through the country of the Blackfoot Indians, a
tribe proverbially treacherous and warlike, that then the snows of
the mountains would have to be overcome, and that every man would be
expected to follow wherever he might be led; that no one would be
sacrificed, nor would any one be subjected to any risk which I would
not freely incur; and that whoever was not willing to coöperate with
us had better at once retire. After these remarks the camp
regulations were read by Mr. Kendall, and my views were cordially
approved. I dispatched Lieutenant Grover with a picked party of
fifteen men, with instructions to reconnoitre the country north, and
in the vicinity of White Bear Lake.
June 13. Continuing the project of sending off the train in detached
parties, and thus gradually breaking up the camp, much of the day
was spent in preparing a party to be placed in charge of Dr.
Suckley. All was effected by four P.M., when his party, consisting
of Belland the guide, Menoc the hunter, a cook, Corporal Coster, and
two dragoons, with two led horses and two led mules, two men in
charge of them, Belland's riding horse, and a Pembina cart in charge
of Henry Boulieau, started from camp. He was instructed to follow
Lieutenant Grover's trail in easy marches, looking carefully to his
animals, and paying particular attention to the collections in
natural history.
To-day I issued an order creating assimilated rank in the
expedition, by which certain gentlemen of the party were appointed
to the grade of lieutenant, and others to the grade of
non-commissioned officer, for convenience in detailing guard. By
this course the relative position of each man was fixed; and,
whether in the main or detached parties, it was known whose duty it
was to give orders in case of necessity. Military organization is in
some degree indispensable, and the idea of an escort has been
entirely abandoned. All are soldiers in the performance of guard
duty, and the soldiers accompanying us are on fatigue duty, and not
merely to escort us by day and to stand guard at night. Several of
the Pembina carts purchased by Dr. Borup arrived in camp to-day.
They are made entirely of wood, having no iron at all about them,
very roughly constructed, and the wheels usually wrapped with
rawhide or buffalo skin in place of an iron tire, to prevent their
cutting through the marshy ground so extensive between here and
Pembina. They are drawn by horses, oxen, or mules, one person
usually driving from two to six carts, and when loaded they will
carry from six to eight hundred pounds. They look as if made for
only one trip, and the creaking of the wheels on the wooden axle
does not give the idea of their standing much service. Their first
appearance, to those of the party unaccustomed to the sight, with
the oxen harnessed in them, caused much merriment, and as they moved
over the prairie, the singular noise produced by their wheels
assured us that, with such an accompaniment, no need existed for any
musical instrument or players, for these discoursed most sweetly.
"There is no such thing as an escort to this expedition. Each man is
escorted by every other man," begins this order. It required each man
habitually to go armed; arms to be inspected morning and evening; no
march on Sundays, on which days thorough inspection of persons and
things to be made, and each man to bathe his whole person; each member
of the scientific corps to take care of his own horse, and to take from
and place in the wagons his own personal baggage; no firing on the
march; personal baggage reduced to twenty-five pounds per man. By the
strict enforcement of these stringent but salutary regulations, and the
extreme care with which all were required to treat the animals, Governor
Stevens conducted the entire expedition without the loss of a man, save
one who shot himself by accident, and the animals actually improved on
the march.
June 14. Spent the day in making the necessary arrangements to push
forward the whole camp, to be organized for the present in detached
parties under separate heads, and all under my general direction.
Lieutenant Du Barry was placed in general charge of the
meteorological observations and of the train, as executive officer.
Everything now presents a favorable aspect, and all will be ready to
move off to-morrow morning. Procured several more Pembina carts.
Engaged to-day Paul Boulieau, a half-breed Chippewa of collegiate
education, who has filled a seat in the territorial legislature with
credit, and also been long in the service of the fur company. He was
placed in charge of the Pembina train, so called, which, consisting
at first of five carts, each drawn by an ox, was this day increased
by a very superior wagon team, drawn by two yoke of very large and
serviceable oxen. It may here be observed that the Pembina train,
managed entirely by the voyageurs, invariably moved by itself,
crossed all the streams without additional assistance, gave us the
least trouble in supervision, and was altogether the most economical
and effective transportation we had. A pioneer wagon containing
rations for the advance party and the india-rubber boats, loaded
lightly in order in case of necessity to be pushed rapidly forward
to the advance parties, and a wagon of Indian goods, were with the
train. The arrangements thus made left me free to be either with the
advance parties or with the train, or to make personal examinations
of important features of the country off the lines of the trail.
Again sending on detached parties, under Lieutenant Grover, Dr. Suckley,
Lander, and Tinkham, the march was resumed to Pike Lake, a distance of
eighty-one miles. The season was unusually backward, the rains frequent
and heavy, and great labor was required in crossing the swollen
streams,--some by bridging, others by means of the india-rubber floats
for ferrying over the goods while the animals swam across. The wagons,
bogged in the miry ground, had to be frequently unloaded and loaded
again; but many soft and marshy places were made passable by covering
the road deep with cut grass, for which purpose the governor, with his
usual foresight, had provided scythes. The country, with its beautiful
prairies, groves, and lakes, and many streams and bogs to be crossed,
and the incidents of the march are graphically described in Governor
Stevens's report, with many views taken along the route. The following
extracts will show the character of the country and the difficulties
overcome:--
June 16. Three miles from Camp Davis we passed through a belt of
woods for two miles, where the flies were excessively annoying,
persecuting our animals so that it was hard to keep them in the
road, as they constantly attempted to rush into the bushes. The
country to Cold Spring has a rich alluvial soil, with scattered
groves of timber. It is mostly level prairie, occasionally broken by
a small stream, and is excellent for agricultural purposes. Passing
through Lieutenant Du Barry's camp, I went on to Dr. Suckley's, on
the west side of the Sauk. Sauk River at our ford is about one
hundred and twenty feet wide, though, owing to the obliquity of the
banks and rapidity of current, the ford is near three hundred feet
wide and the water five feet deep.
June 17. This morning I started with Dr. Suckley and went on to Lake
Henry, nineteen and a half miles. The country was a rolling prairie,
interspersed with small sloughs filled by the recent rains; the soil
is rich and black, grass good, and occasionally gravelly hillocks.
In the crossing of the Sauk by the main train, the india-rubber
boats were for the first time used. The larger one is about twelve
feet long and four wide, weighing seventy-five pounds, the other
about one fifth smaller. A rope was stretched across the stream, and
the boats ferried across by means of a ring attached to their bows,
and sliding along the rope. They succeeded admirably, and a birch
canoe, managed by one of the voyageurs, was also used in crossing.
Some of the men were in the water for hours, but worked faithfully
and efficiently. Lieutenant Du Barry effected the crossing in one
day, and encamped on the west side of the river, six miles from Cold
Spring.
June 18. Left camp about seven o'clock, and in about three quarters
of a mile crossed a bad place, requiring some grass. The water was
two feet deep, and the bottom miry. Our road lay through a beautiful
prairie. The shores of Lake Henry are heavily wooded. In two and a
half miles farther we found two very wet places, one hundred yards
apart. In two miles farther we came to a long marsh, where the
ground was very soft, and where our wagons stalled. Three quarters
of a mile beyond we encountered a very deep, muddy slough, to cross
which we had recourse to a long rope, and all our force pulled on
it. A branch of Crow River is then reached in a mile, or a little
more. It is about twelve feet wide and two deep; both sides are
overflown marsh, making the place very difficult to cross. To avoid
breaking bulk, we again used the long rope, and attaching three
pairs of mules to it, all our men pulling on it at the same time, we
got the wagon through. We arrived about noon at Crow Wing River,
nine miles from camp. It was four or five feet deep and twenty feet
wide, and at this time overflowing its usual banks. Broke bulk here,
the men packing our stuff across. Passing Crow River, we find a
continuous grove of oak-trees on our left, and in five miles a
series of small lakes on our right, not wooded but abounding in
game. Arrived at camp on Lightning Lake about half past eight P.M.
Distance traveled, eighteen miles and three quarters. The frequent
sloughs and bad crossings in our march to-day added much to the
labors of the men and animals. After the hard day's march we enjoyed
our supper of game, cooked in hunter's style on sticks before the
fire, although it was midnight before we could have it ready.
June 19, Sunday. Lightning Lake is a very beautiful sheet of water,
so called from the fact that during Captain Pope's expedition, while
encamped here, one of those storms so fearfully violent in this
country occurred, during which one of his party was instantly killed
by a stroke of lightning. Its northern shore is thickly studded with
timber, and the southern side, upon which we are encamped, affords
an ample supply for all camping purposes. Pickerel, pike, and bass
fill the lake, numbers of which our parties caught; and ducks,
geese, swans, plover, and prairie chicken abound in the vicinity.
The day of rest was enjoyed by the whole party; some fishing,
washing and mending their clothes, others trying various modes of
cooking the game and fish which abounded. Evans succeeded admirably
in roasting a fish in the ashes, first rolling it up in brown paper
dampened, which, when removed, brought off the scales with it,
leaving the meat clean and well done. Early after dinner Mr. Osgood
arrived, informing me that Lieutenant Du Barry, misconstruing my
instructions, had declined to allow him to bring forward the two
wagons which I had ordered for the use of the advanced parties.
June 20. Started at 3.30 A.M. to go back to the main train, which I
met five miles west of Lake Henry. Taking charge of the train
myself, I directed Boutineau to explore in advance for the most
practicable route. The bad crossing referred to in the narrative of
the 18th was, by great exertion and the united force of the whole
party, effected without accident, and the whole train reached
Lightning Lake by 4.30 P.M.
Lieutenant Du Barry appears to have felt affronted at the action of the
governor in taking the personal charge of the train, and indeed the
latter was apt to be pretty severe and decided if anything went wrong.
It will be observed how summarily he weeded out and sent back
inefficient men:--
June 21. In compliance with his own request, I relieved Lieutenant
Du Barry from duty with the expedition, and ordered him to report in
person to the Adjutant-General in Washington. He was desired to call
upon the Secretary of War and acquaint him with the whole history of
the expedition up to this point; and, to enable him to reach the
settlements with some degree of comfort and expedition, I dispatched
Mr. Kendall and two of the voyageurs to accompany him as far as Long
Prairie on his return, whence there would be no difficulty in his
procuring transportation to Sauk Rapids.
Captain Remenyi and his assistant, Mr. Jekelfaluzy, were discharged
to-day, as they did not perform their duties to my satisfaction.
All these matters detained us until 4.30 P.M., when I pushed forward
with Dr. Suckley's and the scientific parties. The clouds were
gathering and indicated a severe gust. We reached a beautiful lake
about three miles distant, called by us Lake Stanley, in honor of
the artist of the expedition, and had just time to get into camp to
save ourselves from a very severe storm, which continued with great
violence till near seven P.M.
June 22. My party, leaving Dr. Suckley, got off about six A.M. We
arrived at White Bear Lake, about nine and a half miles from the
morning's camp, at 10.15 A.M. Leaving Lightning Lake the country
seems to change its character, and is no longer a flat,
undiversified surface, with occasionally a gentle undulation
scarcely attracting attention. It has gradually changed to a heavy,
rolling prairie, which, before approaching White Bear Lake, becomes
broken up into hills, valleys, and basins varying from thirty to
fifty feet in depth. Boulders and stones, from the size of pebbles
to paving-stones, are very numerous. Our route to-day appears to be
gradually ascending at a probable rate of eight or ten feet per
mile. White Bear Lake is a beautiful sheet of water, bordered with
timber, about fourteen miles long and two wide, with high, swelling
banks, running back a mile or so, and rising to the height of about
one hundred and fifty feet. As the animals looked so fresh, and the
day was cool and good for traveling, we halted only for a rest.
About five miles from the lake we came to a stream, apparently
running into it. Other bad places occurred; soft bogs, marshes, and
brooks impeded our progress so much that we did not get into camp
until three P.M., making nine and one third miles from our
halting-place, and eighteen and three fourths for our day's march.
Our camp was on a very rapid stream, with steep, high banks. We
called it Lambert River, in honor of our topographer, who received a
sad overturn as he crossed it with Lieutenant Grover's command.
The main train in charge of Mr. Osgood moved from camp on Lightning
Lake at seven o'clock, after settling a difficulty of a very serious
aspect growing out of a strike of all the teamsters, in consequence
of a discharge by him of six of their number, according to my
directions, because their services were not required. They
threatened to shoot the first driver who moved out of camp. Mr.
Osgood declared that he would drive out each wagon himself. Finally,
after some discussion, the discharged men moved off cheerfully, and
the main train pushed forward to White Bear Lake.
June 23. Our first labor this morning was to cross the stream at a
point half a mile from our camp, from which we moved about six. This
crossing delayed our little party some two hours. Grass had to be
cut and placed on both sides of the stream. The banks were steep and
soft, and it required the presence of a man or two at each wheel to
keep the wagons in motion and prevent their being stuck in the mire.
The country to-day appears admirably adapted to grazing purposes,
and the bottoms, of frequent occurrence, are of a very rich
character. Marshes and little streams, bordered by soft places,
occur frequently. In one of these places, fully one hundred feet in
length, one of our wagons got mired, making it necessary to remove
part of its load to get it through.
About ten A.M. I left the train in charge of Mr. G.W. Stevens, and,
pushing on, reached Lieutenant Grover's camp about twelve. The train
arrived at half past one, crossed a marsh and a small stream, and
encamped opposite the camps of Messrs. Grover, Lander, and Tinkham.
Lieutenant Grover's camp is beautifully situated on the shores of
Pike Lake. The main train and Dr. Suckley's party arrived about half
past eight, and the whole expedition was again brought together.
This I consider the real starting-point of the expedition, and named
our camp here Camp Marcy, in honor of the Secretary of State. We
remained here a day in order to give the animals a chance to rest.
They appear to be in very good condition, and the grazing is fine.
Received of the various scientific chiefs reports of their labors to
this point.