the pecan for popular favor, is the English walnut, which is perhaps
the only nut that has been successfully imported for growing. Since the
earliest Colonial days, seedling nuts have been brought from France,
Germany and other parts of Europe and have been planted up and down the
Atlantic Coast. Most of the trees from these plantings have not been
able to permanently withstand climatic conditions, but, scattered here
and there throughout the North and East, are individual trees of
apparent hardiness which bear nuts in size and quality comparing
favorably with the English walnuts we see on the market. Among the
various hardy varieties of the English walnut are the "Rush" and "Nebo,"
from Lancaster County, Pennsylvania, introduced by Mr. J. G. Rush, the
pioneer propagator in the Eastern States. Another is the "Hall" from the
shores of Lake Erie, the "Pomeroy" from Lockport, N. Y., a short
distance from Niagara Falls; the "Rumford" from Wilmington, Del.; the
"Ridgway" from Lumberton, N. J.; the "Holden" from Hilton, N. Y.; the
"Boston" from Massachusetts; the "Potomac," "Barnes" and "Weaver" from
Washington, D. C.; and a number of other varieties. The location of the
parent trees just named will give some idea of the probable hardiness of
these varieties.
_Shagbark Hickory_
The thin-shelled shagbark hickory is a nut that is coming more and more
into favor and is well worthy of propagation. The first shagbark
recognized as a distinct variety was the "Hales," located and named by
Henry Hales of Ridgwood, N. J., about 1874. This is a very large,
attractive, thin-shelled nut, but has been somewhat superseded by other
and superior shagbarks. Dr. Robert T. Morris of New York has been making
a systematic search for several years for trees bearing shagbarks of
high quality and merit, and has been very successful in bringing a
number of such nuts to public attention, including the "Taylor" and
"Cook." The "Swaim" from South Bend, Ind., is an excellent shagbark; the
"Weiker," from Lancaster County, Pennsylvania; the "Kirtland," from New
England; the "Rice," from Illinois; and another very superior and fine
shagbark from northern Kentucky which was brought to public attention by
R. L. McCoy of Lake, Ind.
_Black Walnuts_
Throughout the whole north are tens of thousands of seedling black
walnuts, many of which are of excellent quality, but, so far as is
known, there are but two recognized varieties, the "Thomas," introduced
during the eighties and propagated to a limited extent, and another from
Lamont, Mich.
_Butternut_
The butternut is also quite common in much of the same territory as is
the black walnut and even in regions farther north, but, so far as I
have knowledge, not a single variety has been named.
_Japanese Walnuts_
Seedlings of two species of Japanese walnuts are quite common along the
Atlantic Coast and as far inland as the Mississippi River. They are also
grown on the Pacific Coast to some extent, but apparently no varieties
have been recognized.
Another nut which is confused with the Japanese walnut is botanically
known as Juglans Mandshurica. In character of growth the tree quite
resembles the Japanese species, but the nut resembles more our American
butternut and sometimes they are confused. A short time ago a gentleman
in New Jersey who had planted some nuts of the Japanese varieties later
cut down the mature trees because he thought they were American
butternuts.
_Hazel-nuts_
It is never safe to use the term "hazel" without explaining that it
correctly applies also to the species brought from Europe and more
commonly called filberts. According to the late Mr. Fuller, the Germans
discriminated between hazels and filberts entirely by the shape of the
husk. A nut having a husk which extended and came together beyond the
end of the nut was called filbert, meaning beard. Those having shorter
and more open husks, so that the nut protruded, were called hazels after
the German word "hassel,"--hood, in English. It will readily be seen
that once the nuts were separated from the husks, it would be impossible
by their classification to determine whether they were hazels or
filberts. The Americans generally accept the use of the term hazel to
apply to both the American and European species.
In the early history of our country extensive and persistent efforts
were made to introduce the European hazels, and no wonder, for of all
nut trees this species seems to yield most readily to garden culture.
They are readily capable of adapting themselves to most any kind of soil
and even to rocky ledges which would be impossible to cultivate. They
attain their greatest perfection in good soil and, under proper
cultivation, the trees come into bearing early and the nuts mature early
in the fall, well in advance of other species. The hazel, however, like
the chestnut has met with a fatal disease. It is a blight which seems to
exist everywhere except on the native species, which are so far immune
as to show little or none of its effects. The American hazels, however,
act as host plants to the blight, which thus quickly spreads, with fatal
results, to the European species. Of all the plantings which have been
made during the past one hundred and fifty years, it is safe to say that
there are less than half a dozen hazel orchards in the eastern states
which have not succumbed. It seems quite probable that a golden
opportunity is awaiting someone who is willing to go through the forests
of our eastern states, especially those in lower New England, in search
of individual hazels from which to propagate new varieties. Among the
heavy bearing shrubs, which exist in the section referred to, it is
certain that many hazels could be found well worth propagating.
* * * * *
Turning now from this brief history of northern nut trees, let us
consider the future of the industry as viewed in the light of sound
theory and actual observation. It is unnecessary to present any argument
why nut trees should be planted. Nuts afford the highest grade food
known to science. They are wholesome, healthful, strengthening,--in
fact, without a single objectionable feature so far as I know as an
article of food and, when one considers that food is the basis of human
existence, no further argument is necessary to warrant interest in one
of the best foods known.
Then how shall we advise the prospective grower of a nut orchard? First,
let him determine what kinds of nuts thrive in his vicinity. The
prospective grower in the latitude of Evansville can indulge himself to
his heart's content, for he can grow successfully the pecan, English
walnut, black walnut, butternut, hazel and, up to date, the chestnut.
But, success in growing any of these trees depends upon proper
information, proper varieties, proper soil and proper care. Suppose a
man, in the Evansville latitude, for instance, desires a pecan orchard.
What should he do? His quickest way, if he has wild seedling pecan trees
growing on his farm, would be to have the wild trees top-worked to
well-known varieties. If he has no seedling trees, then his next best
plan is to purchase budded trees of good varieties from some honest
nurseryman, set them not less than sixty feet apart and cultivate and
care for them. Will they grow around fence corners and creek banks? Yes,
if you have plenty of time to wait. They will not, however, be in a
hurry, and it may be your grandchildren who will gather the nuts. But, a
cultivated orchard of budded pecan trees of the right varieties ought to
come into commercial bearing as soon as does an apple orchard. Mr. W. C.
Reed of Vincennes reports Busserons that were budded fourteen months
ago setting as high as sixteen nuts this year. That is, the second
summer after they were budded. If the trees are of the right varieties,
well cultivated, in good soil, and if you care enough for them to throw
some fertilizer around them, they will please you by their growth and
soon become very profitable.
Now suppose one wants an orchard of English walnuts. Almost identically
the same instructions hold true. If you have wild black walnut seedlings
on your farm, by all means have them top-worked to fine varieties of
English walnut, for the black walnut is the best root for the English
walnut. If you have no seedling trees, go to some reputable nurseryman
and buy known varieties of hardy English walnuts budded on hardy black
walnut stocks. Set them not less than fifty feet apart and cultivate and
care for them. Mr. Rush reports one of his budded Rush trees four years
old bearing fifty-seven walnuts this year. I saw a Rush in Washington
City the other day, two years old, carrying about a dozen walnuts; also
a Hall, of the same age, carrying about the same number. Both trees were
thrifty and not much over waist high, and every terminal twig had from
one to two nuts on it.
If you have wild hickory trees growing on your farm, have them
top-worked by the slip-bark or budding method to fine varieties of
shagbarks. In the absence of wild hickories, I believe the future will
prove that the next best method of starting an orchard of budded
shagbark hickories is to buy them budded on hardy northern pecan stocks.
The hickory is not the best stock for the pecan because it is of slower
growth, and for the same reason the pecan ought to be the better stock
for the hickory. But the hickory does not grow as rapidly as does the
English walnut or the pecan and requires more patience.
The hazels are going to afford a great field for the nut grower, as they
are native to a wide territory embracing the Middle West, the North and
the East, and ought to be profitable. A few years ago I found a very
fine large hazel growing on my farm in Warrick County, Indiana. I dug up
some of the roots of this bush and planted them in my garden at
Boonville, and in three years they were bearing fine clusters of hazels
larger than those borne by the parent bush. I think farmers would find
it profitable to set out hedges of native hazel bushes around their
fields and fences and on hillsides.
Butternuts, black walnuts and beechnuts also offer a fertile field for
experiment. Any varieties of butternut or black walnut can be
propagated by budding or top-grafting them on seedling stocks.
I should like to suggest that every farmer in the nut growing belt set
aside at least ten acres of land for a nut orchard. It will give him a
new interest in life and afford him more pleasure and relief from the
ordinary monotony of farm work, I believe, than any other line of work
he can pursue. If Ponce de Leon had planted a nut orchard in this
country instead of wasting his time searching for the fountain of
perpetual youth he could have spent his old days in interesting,
profitable and fascinating work instead of in despair and
disappointment.
But some of the practical questions asked are, "What is the cost of a
nut orchard?" and, "How soon will it bear?" and "What will it be worth
when it does bear?" No man can answer these questions with any degree of
certainty, for everything that man attempts has its drawbacks and
disadvantages. First-class budded nut trees cost from one to two dollars
apiece. The balance of the cost depends largely upon the intelligence
and efficiency of the labor applied in setting and cultivating. When
will they bear? That depends altogether upon who owns them. If properly
cared for they will begin setting some nuts in a few years and will
increase the crop as the years go by. A pecan tree ought to bear
successfully for fifty years--possibly longer, and ought to be bearing
nicely in eight years if properly cared for. But, success depends upon
the care and intelligence with which the original selection of trees and
soil is made, and upon proper cultivation. I have set an orchard of
northern varieties of pecans budded from the parent trees in the
Evansville section on my farm in Maryland this spring. The land cost me
sixty dollars per acre. When they are ten years old they ought to be
worth at least five hundred dollars per acre. I do not know how much
more this grove of nut trees will be worth in ten years, but I would not
option them at the present time for that price. I have about the same
confidence in the English walnut.
I have always been conservative on these matters and always expect to be
because in conservatism lies safety. These figures I have given you are
merely my personal opinion. I have seen pecan groves ten and fifteen
years old for which I would not have given any more than the land was
worth on which they were growing. If any one has a notion that he can
make money in nut culture, without intelligent exertion, he had better
go into some other line of business in which there are men having a fair
degree of success with unintelligent effort. I know of no nut grove in
the whole United States that is succeeding without intelligent
application, and on the other hand I do not know of a single grove which
with intelligent application is not succeeding. I am a
"conservative-optimist." I have been talking nut culture for a number of
years and expect to see every hope and estimate which I have expressed
fulfilled, and after all has been said and considered my final advice is
to _Plant Nut Trees_.
* * * * *
THE PRESIDENT: The chair invites a very active discussion of this paper.
PROFESSOR SMITH: It would be unkind to criticize so very instructive an
address but there is one thing laid down in that paper I wish to speak
about. I believe we were told we must cultivate our nut trees. I believe
the fact is that in the greater portion of the United States, we can
grow trees, even nut trees, without cultivation. If anybody doesn't
believe that, go to Washington by the Chesapeake Railroad and you will
see thousands of walnut trees along the way. I believe the human race
can grow trees on a hillside without cultivation, and I want to suggest
to persons putting out nut trees to put out a few in places where they
don't have to be plowed, and see if they don't get good results.
Cultivation is not a fundamental element of agriculture or plant life,
but is the quick way to get results.
In many places in Ohio the state experimental work in horticulture,
especially that carried on by F. H. Ballou, has done some wonderful
things in waking up apple orchards that had not grown a quarter of an
inch in years. Merely giving them food has caused them to wake up and
bear. I have seen them, and know. The books say that while apples may
grow without cultivation, peach trees _must_ be cultivated in order to
bear. I have peach trees that are three years old in a rocky piece of
ground. I can't plow it but I have fed some of the peach trees and a few
I did not, that is not much, and the ones that were fed as they should
be are much the biggest and are bearing well. My point is this, keep the
grass well scraped away to prevent trunk injury, and feed even a peach
tree and it will do well. I think the same is true of the nut tree.
Whether a tree that is set out, liberally fed, and the grass kept away
will do as well without cultivation, is a subject worthy of your
consideration and experiment.
THE PRESIDENT: The chair especially desires to call attention to Dr.
Smith's remarks because he has made a very careful study of this
question and his suggestions are worthy of very great consideration. I
have talked these things over with him a great deal and I commend his
remarks especially to the Association for discussion.
DR. MORRIS: In connection with the matter of cultivation I would also
like to have Mr. Reed discuss that. I want to say, however, that, in
using fertilizers, you will often very easily overdo the matter.
Sometimes in my experience professionally, I give a patient medicine
enough to last a week, with directions that a teaspoonful be taken twice
a day, and the patient may believe if she takes the entire bottle at one
dose she will be well in an hour, and consequently suffer from an
overdose. That same idea is sometimes carried out in the fertilization
of trees by horticulturists. You don't intend to do it but sometimes you
can kill with kindness and be too good in feeding your trees if you
don't understand how much fertilization the tree needs. That is the
idea, you have got to give your trees the ratio that they need. If you
give them too much pie or pudding, your trees will have indigestion and
will not thrive and may die. I have lost a great many good trees, and a
great many nut trees, and have checked the growth of a great many by not
realizing this. I wish Mr. Reed would speak to us about it.
MR. POTTER: I want to state some experience I have had and when Mr. Reed
talks, I wish he would give me some information. I set out some pecan
trees on my lawn in the front yard, and of course there is not much
cultivation there except around the trees. It is like most other lawns
in southern Illinois, mostly clay and what other soil we put on top. Now
the clay is very hard and in setting the trees I had my man dig a hole
three feet deep and two feet across and in setting the trees I packed
good dirt around them. The question is how should I feed those trees? I
have put barn manure around them and they are now growing and doing very
nicely, I want to know if I have pursued the right course.
MR. MCCOY: I believe this question of growing trees in fence corners and
on hillsides is not so large a question. The main thing is to give them
plenty of water. There is very little land in the Mississippi valley
that won't grow pecan trees or most any other kind, if you will give
them sufficient mulch and plenty of water, because they take their food
in the form of soup. Unless they have water, they won't grow. I believe
the best cultivation you can give a tree of any kind is a good mulch of
straw and manure. You that have had experience in this part of the
country know that is the best way to cultivate trees.
I grew a peach orchard once in one year, but I have quit that, I have
learned better. It is simply a question of water and plant food. If you
will mulch any kind of a tree, nut tree or any kind, with ten or fifteen
inches of straw and stable manure, you will have a steady growth from
early spring until late in the fall, and it will make a strong tree.
PROFESSOR SMITH: While we are waiting for Mr. Reed I want to take up Mr.
McCoy's soup suggestion. Water doesn't make good soup without something
in it. Experiments show that you can mulch ground in some places and not
wake up the tree, but fertilizer will wake it up the first year.
MR. POTTER: What kind of fertilizer did you use?
PROFESSOR SMITH: One must experiment to see what his land is short on.
Sometimes you can fertilize your trees without any result. Sometimes
potash will not do any good and sometimes it will. You will have to see
what your ground needs. For young apple trees I found in my particular
situation that nitrate of soda is all I want. I have what is called a
Porter's clay soil on the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia. I use that
and then my trees get busy and grow. They make rapid growth even the
first season with a handful of nitrate and for my three year old trees
half a pound is enough. That is what my soil seems to need and we must
use what the soil is short on. That is my interpretation of my situation
and it works.
THE PRESIDENT: Who can tell us whether nitrate of soda is good for nut
trees? Can you, Mr. Simpson?
MR. SIMPSON: In the South, we do not think so.
THE PRESIDENT: The reason I asked, is that I have been studying that. I
wrote Mr. Potter a letter suggesting that he use some on his young nut
trees to see what it would do, and later I found out that all through
the South it was not regarded as desirable. It seems they claim it
starts pecan trees into an active growth but when they stop they make a
very sudden stop and don't start growing any more. I want to get this in
the record right here. You understand that is the general belief
throughout the South, do you not?
MR. SIMPSON: Yes sir, it is not considered good.
THE PRESIDENT: Dr. Smith has made a very careful study of fruit trees
and knows its effect on them from experiments, but it is well perhaps to
consider fruit and nut trees separately.
PROFESSOR SMITH: I should suggest to anybody who is thinking of working
with trees, to get some seedling pecans and plant them and then
fertilize some of them and others not, in the same kind of soil. In
that way he can get his own fertilizer conclusions at a small expense
and then he will know what his own soil needs.
MR. MCCOY: We fertilized seedling pecans in a clay soil and we decided
the trees we did not fertilize got along better than the ones we did. Of
course that ground is better where the trees are than on the average
farm. We used nitrate of soda and potash but we decided the ones we
didn't fertilize did the best.
MR. POTTER: I put two pounds of nitrate of soda around each tree and the
English walnuts I used it on budded out very shortly after using it, but
along about June they died. The pecan trees we used it around grew
fairly well, but some of them, one in particular, appeared to remain
dormant, almost, until about two months ago when it commenced growing
and is now growing very rapidly. So you see I don't know where I am at.
THE PRESIDENT: In writing you I did not understand the size of the tree.
On some trees I have been using a tablespoonful, about that, and I was
afraid I got too much.
MR. POTTER: Evidently I got too much.
THE PRESIDENT: Evidently we got mixed up on the quantity. I know I never
used more than two tablespoonfuls at any time and I should imagine two
pounds would be a big overdose. I remember talking to Dr. Smith about
that time about some old apple trees around which you can use five or
six pounds of nitrate of soda and I suppose that is the way we got mixed
up. I must have had that in mind as I did not intend to advise that
amount for young nut trees.
MR. POMEROY: How long a season should the tree keep growing? From early
spring to late in the fall? My experience is they will stop about the
first of August, and let the wood ripen up and harden for the cold
weather. Some might keep the trees growing longer, but you will hurt the
trees I think.
THE PRESIDENT: We have not heard from Mr. Reed yet.
MR. C. A. REED: I am glad the discussion has proceeded as it has since
it has given me time to reconnoitre. I hardly know what to say on this
subject that Professor Smith has brought up. I guess he knows what he is
talking about so far as his experiments have taught him. The department
does not like to discourage a good thing nor to encourage a thing that
is too risky. There is one thing quite sure and that is that so long as
nut trees are selling for from one dollar to two dollars apiece, very
few people are going to buy them and plant many of them on these
hillsides and experiment with them. People cannot afford to do that. We
have found, taking the country over, that nut trees thrive best when
they are given treatment; that is they must be given cultivation and
fertilization; be given some degree of attention the same as an apple or
peach orchard. Colonel Sober, however, will show you quite a different
thing. He will show you chestnut trees that are not cultivated at all,
so there is a staggering blow to my argument, and yet Colonel Sober gets
something like three and a half bushels to the tree. You don't fertilize
those trees, do you, Colonel Sober?
COLONEL SOBER: No sir, not at all. Haven't yet.
MR. REED: So there is an argument that silences me and still it is true
that we can't safely plant hickories and pecans without some degree of
cultivation. I don't think Professor Smith has planted any on these
hills.
Still we all agree with Professor Smith in a way. Something ought to be
done to the surface to prevent the land from washing, and there is no
better way of doing that than by planting trees. Then the roots will
prevent washing and they can take care of themselves better than a
surface crop. Especially is this true on the hillsides, so there is a
good deal in Professor Smith's argument. And yet there is the danger
that those trees will be infected with disease and insects. On plants
and trees that are attended to and cultivated we find those pests will
be kept in check. So there are two sides to that argument.
PROFESSOR SMITH: The point I raised was this, that it is possible in
some places to attain by fertilization the advantage that comes by
cultivation in other places. Great things have been done without
fertilization. There are chestnut orchards in Corsica of grafted trees,
ranging from the size of my wrist to eighteen to twenty feet in
circumference. They have not been fertilized in centuries, and they
yield enough to support the entire population.