Neither heel nor frog should be pared more than merely to take off what
is ragged; for no reproduction takes place here, as in the case of
the hoof. Farriers ruin nearly all horses by doing otherwise. Indeed,
they are not to be trusted with this operation, which, after shoeing,
any gentleman may perform with his pocket-knife. The sole of the foot
must not be hollowed out, but only the outer wall pared flat or even
with the sole, and most at the toe. Nor, above all things, ought the
farrier’s finishing rasp all round the edge of the horn immediately
above the shoe to be permitted. Neither ought nails to be driven far
backward towards the heel, where the horn is softer and more sensible,
especially at the inner quarter. When a horse has a high heel, the
foot, except the frog, may be pared flat, but not hollowed out or
opened. When a horse has a low heel, the foot should be pared only at
the toes.
It is common to allow the fore part or toe of the hoof to grow long,
thereby throwing the horse much on his heels. This position is
unnatural, because, were the horse in a state of nature, without shoes,
the toe, from constant contact with the ground, would be worn down to
its proper level with the heel. This growth, then, of the fore part of
the hoof, by throwing him on his heels, renders them tender, and causes
lameness: while the foot, not being flat on the ground, also strains
the ligaments of the fetlock joint. These evils may be obviated by
doing as nature directs--by cutting away the toe to the proper level
with the heel, so as to allow the foot to bear flat upon the ground.
When a horse has a short pastern, he should have a short shoe, because
a long one would compel him to bring his heel more backward than the
unpliableness of his pastern would easily admit.
The saddle should be proportioned to the size of the horse. Before, the
bearings should be clear of the plate bone; behind, they should not
extend further than within four inches of the hips; and their pressure
should be equal on every part intended to be touched. The closer the
saddle then comes the better, if neither the weight of the rider nor
settling of the panel can possibly injure the withers or chine. Before
mounting, the rider should examine whether the saddle, girths, straps,
bits, bridle, &c., are all good and well fixed.
When the saddle is on the horse, the lowest part of the seat should
rather be behind its centre, as it is there that the weight of the
body should fall, and by that means the thighs can keep their proper
position. The best test of the adaptation of the seat is, when the
rider, without stirrups or effort, easily falls into his proper place
in the saddle.
Stirrups should not be used until the pupil is capable of riding
without them. Their proper length is when the upper edge of the
horizontal bar reaches a finger’s breadth below the inner ankle-bone.
When the feet are in the stirrups, the heels should be about two inches
lower than the toes. No more than the natural weight of the limbs
should be thrown upon them. It is by an accurate position, and an easy
play of the ankle and instep, that the stirrup is retained, so as to
slip neither forward nor backward, even if the toe be raised for a
moment.
The position on horseback with stirrups differs from that without them
only in this, that the thigh being, by the stirrup, relieved from the
weight of the leg and foot, the knee is slightly bent, and rather
before the lines which these form in the position without stirrups.
In hussar riding, hunting, &c., the breadth of four fingers should
intervene between the fork and the saddle when the rider stands up.
Spurs should never be used but by an accomplished rider. When it is
necessary to employ them, they should be applied a few inches behind
the girth, as low as possible, and with the lightest touch capable of
producing the effect.
As to the bridle, in order to give the greatest possible ease to the
snaffle, a large and polished bit is necessary. Most bits are too
small and long, bend back over the bars of the horse’s jaw, work like
pincers, and cut his mouth.
To give the greatest degree of severity, the bit, while hot, is
twisted into a spiral form, so as to present to the jaw a rough and
sharp surface, capable of pressing the bars or lips with greater or
less severity. The degrees of punishment which this bit is capable of
inflicting are generally sufficient for all the purposes of correction.
It is therefore best to ride with a snaffle, and to use a curb only
occasionally when absolutely necessary. In all cases, the rider should
observe that the horse is furnished with a bit proper for him. If too
light, it may have the effect already described. If too heavy, it may
incline him to carry the head low, or to rest upon the hand, which
jockeys call “making use of a fifth leg.” The simplest and most useful
of the _curb_ kind is the Weymouth bit, which consists of a strong
plain mouth-piece of uniform thickness, without any upset, but merely a
curve forwards, to give ease to the tongue.
The centre of the reins should be accurately marked; and, when both
reins are held in one hand, and the near rein has to pass under
the little finger, and over the fore-finger, on the outside of the
off-rein, the latter should be held about half an inch shorter, and the
centre should be brought proportionally towards the left. In adjusting
the bridle on the horse’s head, the headstall, parallel to and above
the cheekbone, must have its length so regulated as to permit the
mouth-piece of the curb to rest on the bars, an inch above the lower
tushes in horses, and about two inches above the corner teeth in mares,
which have no tushes. The nose-band, lying under the snaffle headstall,
must be buckled so loosely that a finger can pass freely under it and
over the horse’s nose. The bit of the snaffle must be higher, but not
so much so as to wrinkle the corner of the mouth. The throat-lash
must be buckled rather loose. The mane is usually cut close under the
headstall; the finger clears any part of the foretop interfering with
it; and the remainder, when combed smooth, is put either over or under
the front.
If the rider uses a curb, he should make it a rule to hook on the chain
himself; for the quietest horse may bring his rider into danger, if the
curb hurt him. The curb-chain must pass under the snaffle. The rider
should, therefore, put his right hand under the snaffle reins to take
hold of the curb-chain, and introducing two fingers of his left within
the cheek of the bit, and aiding these with his thumb, take hold of the
curb hook. The end links of the curb-chain being in his right hand, he
should turn the chain to the right and under, or as he would a screw,
till every link lies flat and smooth, and then, without losing a half
turn, put that link on the hook which appears to be neither tight nor
slack. The finger should pass between the horse’s jaw and curb, which
in this case hangs down upon his under lip. It is necessary also to see
how it operates. If the branch has liberty to move forty-five degrees,
or to a right angle, it is the degree which is in general best. If,
however, one link of the chain confine it to thirty-five degrees, and
if one link lower give it fifty-five degrees, then the manner of the
horse’s carrying his head must determine which is most proper: if the
horse naturally carry his nose high, the branch may have fifty-five, if
he bring his nose in, he should have thirty-five degrees. If there be a
chain-strap, it must be placed so high on the branch, that when passed
through the ring in the curb-chain, it may be buckled tight enough to
prevent the horse lodging the branch on his teeth.
When a horse’s head is steady, when he is light in hand, can obey its
motions with ease, and stop readily, the bit is properly adjusted. On
the contrary, if he open his mouth as if gagged, writhe his jaws, draw
his tongue above the mouth-piece, or thrust it out sidewise; if he fear
the impression of the bit, have no appuy, toss his head up and down,
carry it low, and endeavour to force the hand, or refuse to go forward,
or run backward, the bit is not properly adjusted.