SECTION V.

_Arrival of the Ships at Hepaee, and friendly Reception there.--Presents

and Solemnities on the Occasion.--Single Combats with Clubs.--Wrestling

and Boxing Matches.--Female Combatants.--Marines exercised.--A Dance

performed by Men.--Fireworks exhibited.--The Night-entertainments of

Singing and Dancing particularly described_.

By the time we had anchored, (May 17) the ships were filled with the

natives, and surrounded by a multitude of canoes, filled also with them.

They brought from the shore, hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots, which they

exchanged for hatchets, knives, nails, beads, and cloth. Feenou and Omai

having come on board, after it was light, in order to introduce me to

the people of the island, I soon accompanied them on shore, for that

purpose, landing at the north part of Lefooga, a little to the right of

the ship's station.

The chief conducted me to a house, or rather a hut, situated close to

the sea-beach, which I had seen brought thither, but a few minutes

before, for our reception. In this, Feenou, Omai, and myself, were

seated. The other chiefs, and the multitude, composed a circle, on the

outside, fronting us; and they also sat down. I was then asked, How long

I intended to stay? On my saying, Five days, Taipa was ordered to come

and sit by me, and proclaim this to the people. He then harangued them,

in a speech mostly dictated by Feenou. The purport of it, as I learnt

from Omai, was, that they were all, both old and young, to look upon me

as a friend, who intended to remain with them a few days; that, during

my stay, they must not steal any thing, nor molest me any other way; and

that it was expected, they should bring hogs, fowls, fruit, &c. to the

ships, where they would receive, in exchange for them, such and such

things, which he enumerated. Soon after Taipa had finished this address

to the assembly, Feenou left us. Taipa then took occasion to signify to

me, that it was necessary I should make a present to the chief of the

island, whose name was Earoupa. I was not unprepared for this, and gave

him such articles as far exceeded his expectation. My liberality to him

brought upon me demands, of the same kind, from two chiefs of other

isles who were present; and from Taipa himself. When Feenou returned,

which was immediately after I had made the last of these presents, he

pretended to be angry with Taipa for suffering me to give away so much;

but I looked upon this as a mere finesse; being confident that he acted

in concert with the others. He now took his seat again, and ordered

Earoupa to sit by him, and to harangue the people as Taipa had done, and

to the same purpose; dictating, as before, the heads of the speech.

These ceremonies being performed, the chief, at my request, conducted me

to three stagnant pools of fresh water, as he was pleased to call it:

And, indeed, in one of these the water was tolerable, and the situation

not inconvenient for filling our casks. After viewing the

watering-place, we returned to our former station, where I found a baked

hog, and some yams, smoking hot, ready to be carried on board for my

dinner. I invited Feenou, and his friends, to partake of it; and we

embarked for the ship; but none but himself sat down with us at the

table. After dinner I conducted them on shore; and, before I returned on

board, the chief gave me a fine large turtle, and a quantity of yams.

Our supply of provisions was copious; for, in the course of the day, we

got, by barter, alongside the ship, about twenty small hogs, beside

fruit and roots. I was told, that on my first landing in the morning, a

man came off to the ships, and ordered every one of the natives to go on

shore. Probably this was done with a view to have the whole body of

inhabitants present at the ceremony of my reception; for when that was

over, multitudes of them returned again to the ships.

Next morning early, Feenou, and Omai, who scarcely ever quitted the

chief, and now slept on shore, came on board. The object of the visit

was to require my presence upon the island. After some time, I

accompanied them; and, upon landing, was conducted to the same place

where I had been seated the day before; and where I saw a large

concourse of people already assembled. I guessed that something more

than ordinary was in agitation; but could not tell what, nor could Omai

inform me.

I had not been long seated, before near a hundred of the natives

appeared in sight, and advanced, laden with yams, bread-fruit,

plantains, cocoa-nuts, and sugar-canes. They deposited their burdens, in

two heaps, or piles, upon our left, being the side they came from. Soon

after, arrived a number of others from the right, bearing the same kind

of articles, which were collected into two piles upon that side. To

these were tied two pigs, and six fowls; and to those upon the left, six

pigs, and two turtles. Earoupa seated himself before the several

articles upon the left; and another chief before those upon the right;

they being, as I judged, the two chiefs who had collected them, by order

of Feenou, who seemed to be as implicitly obeyed here, as he had been at

Annamooka; and, in consequence of his commanding superiority over the

chiefs of Hepaee, had laid this tax upon them for the present occasion.

As soon as this munificent collection of provisions was laid down in

order, and disposed to the best advantage, the bearers of it joined the

multitude, who formed a large circle round the whole. Presently after, a

number of men entered this circle, or area, before us, armed with clubs,

made of the green branches of the cocoa-nut tree. These paraded about

for a few minutes, and then retired; the one half to one side, and the

other half to the other side; seating themselves before the spectators.

Soon after, they successively entered the lists, and entertained us with

single combats. One champion, rising up and stepping forward from one

side, challenged those of the other side, by expressive gestures, more

than by words, to send one of their body to oppose him. If the challenge

was accepted, which was generally the case, the two combatants put

themselves in proper attitudes, and then began the engagement, which

continued till one or other owned himself conquered, or till their

weapons were broken. As soon as each combat was over, the victor

squatted himself down facing the chief, then rose up, and retired. At

the same time, some old men, who seemed to sit as judges, gave their

plaudit in a few words; and the multitude, especially those on the side

to which the victor belonged, celebrated the glory he had acquired in

two or three huzzas.

This entertainment was, now and then, suspended for a few minutes.

During these intervals there were both wrestling and boxing matches. The

first were performed in the same manner as at Otaheite; and the second

differed very little from the method practised in England. But what

struck us with most surprise, was, to see a couple of lusty wenches step

forth, and begin boxing; without the least ceremony, and with as much

art as the men. This contest, however, did not last above half a minute,

before one of them gave it up. The conquering heroine received the same

applause from the spectators which they bestowed upon the successful

combatants of the other sex. We expressed some dislike at this part of

the entertainment; which, however, did not prevent two other females

from entering the lists. They seemed to be girls of spirit, and would

certainly have given each other a good drubbing, if two old women had

not interposed to part them. All these combats were exhibited in the

midst of, at least, three thousand people, and were conducted with the

greatest good humour on all sides; though some of the champions, women

as well as men, received blows, which, doubtless, they must have felt

for some time after.

As soon as these diversions were ended, the chief told me, that the

heaps of provisions on our right hand were a present to Omai; and that

those on our left hand, being about two-thirds of the whole quantity,

were given to me. He added, that I might take them on board whenever it

was convenient; but that there would be no occasion to set any of our

people as guards over them, as I might be assured, that not a single

cocoa-nut would be taken away by the natives. So it proved; for I left

every thing behind, and returned to the ship to dinner, carrying the

chief with me; and when the provisions were removed on board, in the

afternoon, not a single article was missing. There was as much as loaded

four boats; and I could not but be struck with the munificence of

Feenou; for this present far exceeded any I had ever received from any

of the sovereigns of the various islands I had visited in the Pacific

Ocean. I lost no time in convincing my friend, that I was not insensible

of his liberality; for, before he quitted my ship, I bestowed upon him

such of our commodities, as, I guessed, were most valuable in his

estimation. And the return I made was so much to his satisfaction, that,

as soon as he got on shore, he left me still indebted to him, by sending

me a fresh present, consisting of two large hogs, a considerable

quantity of cloth, and some yams.

Feenou had expressed a desire to see the marines go through their

military exercise. As I was desirous to gratify his curiosity, I ordered

them all ashore, from both ships, in the morning of the 20th. After they

had performed various evolutions, and fired several vollies, with which

the numerous body of spectators seemed well pleased, the chief

entertained us, in his turn, with an exhibition, which, as was

acknowledged by us all, was performed with a dexterity and exactness,

far surpassing the specimen we had given of our military manoeuvres. It

was a kind of a dance, so entirely different from any thing I had ever

seen, that, I fear, I can give no description that will convey any

tolerable idea of it to my readers. It was performed by men; and one

hundred and five persons bore their parts in it. Each of them had in his

hand an instrument neatly made, shaped somewhat like a paddle, of two

feet and a half in length, with a small handle, and a thin blade; so

that they were very light. With these instruments they made many and

various flourishes, each of which was accompanied with a different

attitude of the body, or a different movement. At first, the performers

ranged themselves in three lines; and, by various evolutions, each man

changed his station in such a manner, that those who had been in the

rear came into the front. Nor did they remain long in the same position;

but these changes were made by pretty quick transitions. At one time

they extended themselves in one line; they, then, formed into a

semicircle; and, lastly, into two square columns. While this last

movement was executing, one of them advanced, and performed an antic

dance before me; with which the whole ended.

The musical instruments consisted of two drums, or rather two hollow

logs of wood, from which some varied notes were produced, by beating on

them with two sticks. It did not, however, appear to me, that the

dancers were much assisted or directed by these sounds, but by a chorus

of vocal music, in which all the performers joined at the same time.

Their song was not destitute of pleasing melody; and all their

corresponding motions were executed with so much skill, that the

numerous body of dancers seemed to act, as if they were one great

machine. It was the opinion of every one of us, that such a performance

would have met with universal applause on a European theatre; and it so

far exceeded any attempt we had made to entertain them, that they seemed

to pique themselves upon the superiority they had over us. As to our

musical instruments, they held none of them in the least esteem, except

the drum; and even that they did not think equal to their own. Our

French horns, in particular, seemed to be held in great contempt; for

neither here, nor at any other of the islands, would they pay the

smallest attention to them.

In order to give them a more favourable opinion of English amusements,

and to leave their minds fully impressed with the deepest sense of our

superior attainments, I directed some fireworks to be got ready; and,

after it was dark, played them off in the presence of Feenou, the other

chiefs, and a vast concourse of their people. Some of the preparations

we found damaged; but others of them were in excellent order, and

succeeded so perfectly, as to answer the end I had in view. Our water

and sky-rockets, in particular, pleased and astonished them beyond all

conception; and the scale was now turned in our favour.

This, however, seemed only to furnish them with an additional motive to

proceed to fresh exertions of their very singular dexterity; and our

fireworks were no sooner ended, than a succession of dances, which

Feenou had got ready for our entertainment, began. As[160] a prelude to

them, a band of music, or chorus of eighteen men, seated themselves

before us, in the centre of the circle, composed by the numerous

spectators, the area of which was to be the scene of the exhibitions.

Four or five of this band had pieces of large bamboo, from three to five

or six feet long, each managed by one man, who held it nearly in a

vertical position, the upper end open, but the other end closed by one

of the joints. With this close end, the performers kept constantly

striking the ground, though slowly, thus producing different notes,

according to the different lengths of the instruments, but all of them

of the hollow or base sort; to counteract which, a person kept striking

quickly, and with two sticks, a piece of the same substance, split, and

laid along the ground, and, by that means, furnishing a tone as acute

as those produced by the others were grave. The rest of the band, as

well as those who performed upon the bamboos, sung a slow and soft air,

which so tempered the harsher notes of the above instruments, that no

bye-stander, however accustomed to hear the most perfect and varied

modulation of sweet sounds, could avoid confessing the vast power, and

pleasing effect, of this simple harmony.

[Footnote 160: Mr Andersen's account of the night dances being much

fuller than Captain Cook's, the reader will not be displeased that it

has been adopted.--D.]

The concert having continued about a quarter of an hour, twenty women

entered the circle. Most of them had, upon their heads, garlands of the

crimson flowers of the China rose, or others; and many of them had

ornamented their persons with leaves of trees, cut with a deal of nicety

about the edges. They made a circle round the chorus, turning their

faces toward it, and began by singing a soft air, to which responses

were made by the chorus in the same tone; and these were repeated

alternately. All this while, the women accompanied their song with

several very graceful motions of their hands toward their faces, and in

other directions at the same time, making constantly a step forward, and

then back again, with one foot, while the other was fixed. They then

turned their faces to the assembly, sung some time, and retreated slowly

in a body, to that part of the circle which was opposite the hut where

the principal spectators sat. After this, one of them advanced from each

side, meeting and passing each other in the front, and continuing their

progress round, till they came to the rest. On which, two advanced from

each side, two of whom also passed each other, and returned as the

former; but the other two remained, and to these came one, from each

side, by intervals, till the whole number had again formed a

circle-about the chorus.

Their manner of dancing was now changed to a quicker measure, in which

they made a kind of half turn by leaping, and clapped their hands, and

snapped their fingers, repeating some words in conjunction with the

chorus. Toward the end, as the quickness of the music increased, their

gestures and attitudes were varied with wonderful vigour and dexterity;

and some of their motions, perhaps, would, with us, be reckoned rather

indecent. Though this part of the performance, most probably, was not

meant to convey any wanton ideas, but merely to display the astonishing

variety of their movements.

To this grand female ballet, succeeded one performed by fifteen men.

Some of them were old; but their age seemed to have abated little of

their agility or ardour for the dance. They were disposed in a sort of

circle, divided at the front, with their faces not turned out toward the

assembly, nor inward to the chorus; but one half of their circle faced

forward as they had advanced, and the other half in a contrary

direction. They, sometimes, sung slowly, in concert with the chorus;

and, while thus employed, they also made several very fine motions with

their hands, but different from those made by the women, at the same

time inclining the body to either side alternately by raising one leg,

which was stretched outward, and resting on the other; the arm of the

same side being also stretched fully upward. At other times they recited

sentences in a musical tone, which were answered by the chorus; and, at

intervals, increased the measure of the dance, by clapping the hands,

and quickening the motions of the feet, which, however, were never

varied. At the end, the rapidity of the music, and of the dancing,

increased so much, that it was scarcely possible to distinguish the

different movements; though one might suppose the actors were now almost

tired, as their performance had lasted near half an hour.

After a considerable interval, another act, as we may call it, began.

Twelve men now advanced, who placed themselves in double rows fronting

each other, but on opposite sides of the circle; and, on one side, a man

was stationed, who, as if he had been a prompter, repeated several

sentences, to which the twelve new performers, and the chorus, replied.

They then sung slowly; and afterward danced and sung more quickly, for

about a quarter of an hour, after the manner of the dancers whom they

had succeeded.

Soon after they had finished, nine women exhibited themselves, and sat

down fronting the hut where the chief was. A man then rose, and struck

the first of these women on the back, with both fists joined. He

proceeded, in the same manner, to the second and third; but when he came

to the fourth, whether from accident or design I cannot tell, instead of

the back, he struck her on the breast. Upon this a person rose instantly

from the crowd, who brought him to the ground with a blow on the head;

and he was carried off without the least noise or disorder. But this did

not save the other five women from so odd a discipline, or perhaps

necessary ceremony; for a person succeeded him, who treated them in the

same manner. Their disgrace did not end here; for when they danced, they

had the mortification to find their performance twice disapproved of,

and were obliged to repeat it. This dance did not differ much from that

of the first women, except in this one circumstance, that the present

set sometimes raised the body upon one leg, by a sort of double motion,

and then upon the other alternately, in which attitude they kept

snapping their fingers; and, at the end, they repeated, with great

agility, the brisk movements, in which the former group of female

dancers had shewn themselves so expert.

In a little tine, a person entered unexpectedly, and said something in a

ludicrous way, about the fireworks that had been exhibited, which

extorted a burst of laughter from the multitude. After this, we had a

dance composed of the men, who attended, or had followed, Feenou. They

formed a double circle (i.e. one within another) of twenty-four each,

round the chorus, and began a gentle soothing song, with corresponding

motions of the hands and head. This lasted a considerable time, and then

changed to a much quicker measure, during which they repeated sentences,

either in conjunction with the chorus, or in answer to some spoken by

that band. They then retreated to the back part of the circle, as the

women had done, and again advanced, on each side, in a triple row, till

they formed a semicircle, which was done very slowly, by inclining the

body on one leg, and advancing the other a little way, as they put it

down. They accompanied this with such a soft air as they had sung at the

beginning; but soon changed it to repeat sentences in a harsher tone, at

the same time quickening the dance very much, till they finished with a

general shout and clap of the hands. The same was repeated several

times; but, at last, they formed a double circle, as at the beginning,

danced, and repeated very quickly, and finally closed with several very

dexterous transpositions of the two circles.

The entertainments of this memorable night concluded with a dance, in

which the principal people present exhibited. It resembled the

immediately preceding one, in some respects, having the same number of

performers, who began nearly in the same way; but their ending, at each

interval, was different; for they increased their motions to a

prodigious quickness, shaking their heads from shoulder to shoulder,

with such force, that a spectator, unaccustomed to the sight, would

suppose, that they ran a risk of dislocating their necks. This was

attended with a smart clapping of the hands, and a kind of savage holla!

or shriek, not unlike what is sometimes practised in the comic dances on

our European theatres. They formed the triple semicircle, as the

preceding dancers had done; and a person, who advanced at the head on

one side of the semicircle, began by repeating something in a truly

musical recitative, which was delivered with an air so graceful, as

might put to the blush our most applauded performers. He was answered in

the same manner, by the person at the head of the opposite party. This

being repeated several times, the whole body, on one side, joined in the

responses to the whole corresponding body on the opposite side, as the

semicircle advanced to the front; and they finished, by singing and

dancing as they had begun.

These two last dances were performed with so much spirit, and so great

exactness, that they met with universal approbation. The native

spectators, who, no doubt, were perfect judges whether the several

performances were properly executed, could not withhold their applauses

at some particular parts; and even a stranger, who never saw the

diversion before, felt similar satisfaction, at the same instant. For

though, through the whole, the most strict concert was observed, some of

the gestures were so expressive, that it might be said, they spoke the

language that accompanied them; if we allow that there is any connection

between motion and sound. At the same time, it should be observed, that

though the music of the chorus, and that of the dancers, corresponded,

constant practice in these favourite amusements of our friends, seems to

have a great share in effecting the exact time they keep in their

performances. For we observed, that if any of them happened accidentally

to be interrupted, they never found the smallest difficulty in

recovering the proper place of the dance or song. And their perfect

discipline was in no instance more remarkable, than in the sudden

transitions they so dexterously made from the ruder exertions, and harsh

sounds, to the softest airs, and gentlest movements.[161]

[Footnote 161: In a former note, it was observed, that the songs and

dances of the Caroline Islanders, in the North Pacific, bear a great

resemblance to those of the inhabitants of Wateeoo. The remark may be

now extended to those of the Friendly Islanders, described at large in

this chapter. That the reader may judge for himself, I have selected the

following particulars from Father Cantova's account. "Pendant la nuit,

au clair de la lune, ils s'assemblent, de temps en temps, pour chanter &

danser devant la maison de leur _Tumole_. Leurs danses se font au son de

la voix, car ils n'ont point d'instrument de musique. La beauté de la

danse, consiste dans l'exacte uniformité des mouvemens du corps. Les

hommes, separés des femmes, se postent vis-à-vis les uns des autres;

après quoi, ils remuent la tête, les bras, les mains, les pieds, en

cadence. Leur tête est couverte de plumes, on de fleurs;--et l'on voit,

attachées à leurs oreilles, des feuilles de palmier tissues avec assez

d'art--Les femmes, de leur coté,--se regardant les unes les autres,

commencent un chant pathétique & langoureux, accompagnant le son de leur

voix du mouvement cadencé de la tête & des bras."--_Lettres Edifiantes &

Curiesues_, tom. xv. p. 314, 315.--D.]

The place where the dances were performed was an open space amongst the

trees, just by the sea, with lights, at small intervals, placed round

the inside of the circle. The concourse of people was pretty large,

though not equal to the number assembled in the forenoon, when the

marines exercised. At that time, some of our gentlemen guessed there

might be present about five thousand persons; others thought there were

more; but they who reckoned that there were fewer, probably, came nearer

the truth.

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