After remaining one day at Jerusalem, according to programme, February

22d, we struck our tents, resumed our saddles, and started on an

excursion of three days to Solomon's Pools, Bethlehem, Convent of Mar

Saba, the Dead Sea, the Jordan, returning by the way of Bethany to

Jerusalem.

About six miles' ride over a rocky, sterile country, brought us to

Rachel's Tomb. It is a small stone building, forty feet long and

twenty wide, and is respected by Christians, Jews and Mahommedans.

Here we made a detour over a miserable, rocky, tortuous path of some

three miles to the Pools of Solomon. These pools consist of three

immense reservoirs, situated in a broad valley about three miles from

Bethlehem. They are partly excavated in a rocky bed, and partly built

of large hewn stones, and so arranged that the bottom of the upper pool

is higher than the top of the next, and the same with the second and

the third. The first pool is three hundred and eighty feet in length,

twenty-five feet deep, and about two hundred and forty feet broad. The

second is about one hundred and sixty feet from the upper pool, four

hundred and twenty-three feet in length, about two hundred and forty in

breadth, and thirty-nine in depth. The lower one, nearly two hundred

and fifty feet from the middle pool, is five hundred and eighty feet in

length, about two hundred feet wide and fifty feet deep.

These pools receive their supplies from a subterraneous fountain,

some distance up the valley. The water from these pools was formerly

conveyed in an aqueduct by Bethlehem, in a winding course, to

Jerusalem; but at present it only goes to Bethlehem. These pools are

supposed to have been built by Solomon. From this point we continued

our course over rocky ridges, following a narrow, winding trail, till

we reached Bethlehem, the birthplace of our Savior.

This city is pleasantly situated upon a mountain ridge, the slopes of

which are terraced with rows of fig and olive trees, rising one above

another in regular gradation. The population of Bethlehem is about

three thousand, principally Christians. The Church of the Nativity

is about the only attraction. We entered it and followed a winding

staircase to the Grotto of the Nativity, which is brilliantly lighted

with about thirty silver lamps, kept continually burning. The floor

is laid with precious marbles. A white marble slab, placed in the

pavement, set around with jasper, in the centre of which is a silver

sun, is encircled with the following words: _Hic de Virgine Maria Jesus

Christus Natus Est., i. e_., "Here Jesus Christ was born of the Virgin

Mary." Though we had scruples respecting this being the identical spot

it represented, still these words, in connection with the peculiar

circumstances around, produced impressions never to be forgotten. Near

by was pointed out the place where the wise men stood while presenting

the Royal Infant myrrh and frankincense. A little distant from this we

were shown an altar, which is said to indicate the place where twenty

thousand children, murdered by Herod's order, were buried; now called,

on this account, "The Altar of the Innocents." A painting directly over

it represents the massacre.

We were conducted into a retired, solitary niche of this church, almost

devoid of light, the identical Studio of St. Jerome, where he spent

most of his life in deep study and produced those works which gave

celebrity to his name.

Before leaving Bethlehem it was considered policy to employ a Bedouin

sheik, as security against these barbarians, who inhabit the mountains

through which we were to pass. These Bedouins chiefly live in tents,

their flocks and herds constituting their principal means of support.

Their dress is plain and rather primitive--a flowing skirt or gown and

a scanty undergarment of coarse calico fastened around the waist by a

leather belt, ornamented with rows of cartridges in brass tubes; to

these are added a long-barreled shotgun, with flintlock, slung over the

shoulder, and knife stuck in the belt. This wandering people cultivate

the soil to some extent. In passing over the mountains of Judea, we

sometimes saw enclosed patches of cultivated ground near their camps,

and many flocks of sheep and goats feeding in the glens and upon the

adjacent mountains. Tourists are not safe in traveling through their

country unless accompanied by some of their own people.

We stopped to lunch in an olive orchard, a short distance from

Bethlehem, an enclosure called "The Shepherds' Field," where the

shepherds watched their flocks by night, when the angels appeared

to them announcing the grand and glorious event of our Savior's

incarnation.

From here our route was over a rocky, tortuous path, through the

wilderness of Judea, scarcely a tree, shrub or bush to be seen in

any direction. The whole country is barren and rocky, herbage here

and there sufficient only for the sustenance of sheep and goats. The

mountain scenery was beautiful and sublime; occasionally I stopped my

horse upon a lofty summit to gaze upon the surrounding scenery, a vast

wilderness of mountains in an endless variety of form and size. Towards

evening we arrived at the Convent of Mar Saba, about ten miles from

Bethlehem. We descended a broad, paved staircase to a small platform

in front of the massive walls, in which was a small iron door. We

were closely watched by a singular looking friar, peeping through a

loophole overhead. Presenting our letter of introduction from the Greek

authorities at Jerusalem, which was scrupulously examined, we were

admitted and conducted through the building by the presiding friar, a

tolerably good looking and intelligent gentleman.

This convent, in some respects, is the most singular and extraordinary

building in Palestine. It is situated in the midst of the wilderness

where John the Baptist commenced his ministry. It is built upon the

side of a terrific ravine, and consists of irregular massive walls,

towers, chambers and chapels, built upon narrow rock terraces and

precipices, advantage being taken of natural caves and grottos in the

rocks and sides of the cliffs, insomuch that we could scarcely tell,

as we passed along the narrow galleries and flights of stairs, what

was natural and what artificial; the ravine is several hundred feet

deep, the side of it covered from top to bottom with these natural

and artificial works, woven imperceptibly one into another, forming

a fortress of immense strength. It is considered one of the richest

convents in Palestine; and the strictest precaution and watching are

observed to prevent the wild Bedouins, who are constantly hovering in

the vicinity, from entering and carrying off its treasures. St. Saba,

the founder of this convent, was born in the year 439. He was a man

of remarkable sanctity, and held in such high veneration that he drew

thousands of followers to this desolate region. He had around him, at

one time, fourteen thousand people in this glen and its neighborhood.

He died in this solitary retreat, at the age of ninety-four years.

We were shown his tomb in a small, neat chapel, also an apartment

containing a pile of skulls of monks who had been martyred by the

Persians, and a grotto where St. Saba spent many years of his life,

which, according to tradition, was originally a lion's den. We saw a

palm tree still flourishing, said to have been planted nearly fourteen

hundred years ago by St. Saba.

This convent belongs to the Greek Church. The monks are required to

observe the most rigid rules of abstinence and fasting, never allowed

to eat flesh, and strictly enjoined to allow no woman to enter their

presence or cross the threshold of their establishment. A small,

peaceful tribe of Arabs, residing in adjacent glens, are employed by

these friars to convey their food and clothing from Jerusalem.

In a small, open square, they spread out upon the pavement their little

articles of traffic, consisting of beads, buttons, crosses, walking

sticks, etc., inviting us to make investments. About seventy of these

anchorites live together in this building, where everything around

exhibits an aspect of gloom and misery, as might be expected where

nature is interrupted by the exclusion of the cheering, enlivening and

happy influence of woman.

From Mar Saba we proceeded to our encampment, half a mile distant, in a

beautiful dell, encircled by stupendous mountains.

The following day, having nine hours' ride before us, we started before

sunrise, our path extending over high, barren, rocky ridges, through

a wild, desolate region, skirting fearful ravines, and passing along

the brink of frightful chasms and precipices, occasionally catching

a glimpse of the Dead Sea, through breaks in the distant cliffs; at

length we beheld the sacred Plains of Jordan, and there, in full view,

the Dead Sea, with its waters sparkling beneath the bright and burning

sun.

Having descended into the valley, while passing through a jungle of

tall cane and thorns, those of our party in front suddenly encountered

a band of armed Bedouins, whose fierce looks and threatening attitude

prompted them to turn back very hurriedly. Antonio, our dragoman,

immediately rushed up from the rear to ascertain the cause of

interruption; on his approach, the Bedouins concealed themselves among

the cane and bushes, except three, who stood their ground defiantly.

Antonio, some-what excited, hurried the company rapidly through the

jungle, then galloped up to the three Bedouins, and, aided by his men,

forced their arms from them, and took them as trophies of victory to

the Dead Sea. The sheik being in the rear, and not appearing till the

affray was nearly over, some conjectured that he dictated the ruse;

our subsequent acquaintance with him, however, convinced us that this

supposition did him injustice.

The Dead Sea is the most remarkable body of water in the world. It is

ten miles wide, forty in length--lying in a deep ravine, about thirteen

hundred feet below the level of the Mediterranean, enclosed by lofty

cliffs of bare white and grey limestone. We stopped on the shore near

where the Jordan empties. We noticed here quantities of driftwood,

which had been accumulating for ages; but little else appeared except

sterility, dreariness and death-like solitude. We were informed that

nothing was to be found upon any of its borders exhibiting life except

here and there where a brackish fountain, or little streamlet from

the mountain, produces a small thicket of cane, willow and tamarisk.

I think the water is more intensely salt than that of any other body

of water except Salt Lake. It contains twenty-six per cent. of saline

matter, which is sufficient to render it fatal to animal life. It is

as transparent as the water of the Mediterranean. Its specific gravity

is so great that the human body will not sink, and eggs float when

two-thirds immersed.

After spending some time in gratifying our curiosity and in

experimenting on the bathing qualities of its waters, we left its

dismal shores, steering across a flat, sterile plain, some three miles

distant, and stopped under some willows on the banks of the sacred

Jordan, near the place where it is supposed the Israelites crossed, and

where our Savior was baptized.

LETTER VIII.

Jordan River.--Sacred localities.--Fountain of Elisha.--Brook

Cherith.--Plains of Jericho.--Bethany.--Residence of Mary and

Martha.--Tomb of Lazarus.--Garden of Gethsemane.--Hill of evil

counsel.--Mizpah.--Valley of Jehoshaphat.--Absalom's Pillar.--Mosque of

Omar.--Solomon's Temple.--Mount Moriah.--Worship of Moloch.--Place of

Lamentation.

Palestine, March 6th, 1873.

_Editor Deseret News_:

Our visit to the river Jordan was interesting. As we drank of its sweet

and refreshing waters and washed in its sacred stream, our thoughts and

reflections recurred to the days of childhood, when we were accustomed

to peruse the Holy Scriptures describing the important events which

transpired in this locality--the passage of the Israelites when the

channel became dry, as the priests, bearing upon their shoulders the

sacred ark, stepped into the flowing stream; the dividing of the

waters by Elijah when he passed over the dry bed and was taken up

into heaven from the plain on the opposite side by a whirlwind; and

Elisha, as he returned, took the mantle of Elijah that fell from him,

and smote the waters, saying, "Where is the Lord God of Elijah?" thus

making the third time the Jordan was divided. But another event of

much deeper interest is associated with this place--the baptism of our

Savior, referred to in the following language: "John came preaching in

the wilderness of Judea, and Jesus came from Galilee to Jordan to be

baptized of him;" and we were at or near the identical point where all

these memorable events had taken place, standing upon the bank, looking

down into the glen, and bathing in the same stream which had borne

silent witness of these sublime occurrences.

This stream of Biblical history flows through a glen varying from two

hundred to six hundred yards in width, and from fifty to one hundred

and fifty feet in depth below the surrounding plain. The bottom of

the glen is sprinkled here and there with shrubs; tamarisk, oleander

and willows grow on the banks of the stream, which are generally very

steep. The Jordan varies in width from eighty to one hundred and fifty

feet, with a depth often of ten or twelve feet. It flows through the

Sea of Galilee; from the great fountain at Dan, to where it empties

into the Dead Sea, its distance in a direct line is ninety-two miles.

The Sea of Galilee is about six hundred feet higher than the mouth of

the Jordan, and sixty miles distant. This river has a rapid current,

making it dangerous to bathers unacquainted with the stream. A

gentleman from New York, who joined us at Jaffa, stated that on his

previous tour to Palestine, while bathing here, he was suddenly carried

down by the force of the current, and at the last moment was saved by a

dexterous and extraordinary effort of his dragoman.

A singular custom prevails among the Christian churches of

Palestine--that of bathing in the Jordan every year at Easter. They

gather in multitudes, putting themselves under the protection of a

Turkish escort, headed by the Governor of Jerusalem or his deputy, to

protect them from the Bedouin robbers. Starting from the "Holy City,"

traveling on foot and upon mules, donkeys and camels, through the

wild, mountain regions of Judea, they cross the Plains of Jordan, and

on reaching its sacred stream, rush indiscriminately into the flowing

waters, young and old, men and women, regardless of propriety or even

decency. Through this ceremony they anticipate peculiar favors and

heavenly blessings.

Having sufficiently examined the Jordan and its surroundings, we

proceeded across the plains, making our encampment at the Fountain of

Elisha, near the ruins of Jericho. This fountain consists of several

small springs which flow from beneath a large mound. These are the

famous waters which were healed by Elisha, as spoken of in Scripture.

A stream flows from them of considerable size, which waters a portion

of the Plain of Jericho. The Valley of the Jordan, in the direction we

crossed, is about ten miles in width, possessing a rich soil, and with

proper tillage could be made abundantly productive. A great portion of

it, however, is a dreary, desolate region. Some parts of the valley

watered by the Brook Cherith and the stream issuing from Elisha's

Fountain are covered with lotus trees, interspersed with willows and

a prolific growth of weeds. Some distance from these water courses,

the trees and shrubbery are more thinly scattered which viewed in the

distance resemble an immense park, beautiful and picturesque. These

plains were formerly celebrated for their richness and fertility--their

palm groves and luxuriant gardens, producing honey and balm, reckoned

the most fertile region of Judea. Now nothing of this kind remains. The

Plains of Jericho were formerly considered the garden of Palestine;

their aspect now is strangely different, nothing is seen but small

fields of grain intermixed with thorny bush.

A small village, occupied by Arabs, is the only modern representative

of the ancient Jericho. The houses are formed of stone walls, built

up loosely without mortar; the roofs flat and covered with brush and

gravel; the yards and wretched patches of gardens are enclosed by

windows constructed of the bows of thorns; the walls of the village, to

protect its shiftless inhabitants from the raids of the Bedouins, are

made of the same material. In riding through this disgustingly filthy

town, we were lustily cheered by some dozen dirty, half-naked children,

collected for this purpose, but more particularly for backsheesh

(money). Sheep, children, goats, women and men, all indiscriminately

huddled together, and no doubt this people deserved the profligate

character given them, _i. e_., similar to that of Sodom and Gomorrah.

In the evening, some twenty Bedouins appeared in our camp, equipped and

prepared to amuse us by their accomplishments in music and dancing,

for the purpose of laying claims to our backsheesh. We considered

it policy to accept the offer; accordingly we took seats before our

tents. They posted themselves in a standing line immediately fronting

us, each having a short sword girded under a ragged mantle, all

scantily and shabbily clad, making rather a primitive appearance.

They commenced their singular manocuvres by dodging forward and back,

at the same moment clapping their hands, accompanied with rapid

stepping of the feet and a strange chant, occasionally making a

whizzing, thrilling whoop, the like of which was never heard but from

the throat of a Bedouin, their chief standing in front, twirling and

flourishing a naked sword in the faces of his comrades, keeping time

with their fantastic motions, steppings, chantings and whoopings,

occasionally turning suddenly, making the whole exceedingly impressive

by flourishing the naked blade close to our faces. The drift of

their songs, we were told, was highly flattering to the ladies and

complimentary to the gentlemen--the former for their extraordinary

beauty, the latter for their anticipated liberality in bestowing

backsheesh. We took the hint, and recollecting several robberies and

murders which had occurred in the vicinity, we paid them for this

wretched entertainment, constantly adding more, until we excited

their admiration. We retired to our tents, reflecting on the strange

difference between the present occupants of this locality and those

who inhabited it when Prophets converted bitter springs into sweet

fountains, and smote impetuous streams, piling up their waters on

either side, and walked through on dry ground.

The following morning, after breakfasting and drinking the sweet waters

of the Fountain of Elisha, we left the Plains of Jericho, and ascended

into a wild, rocky, mountainous region, our path lying along the brink

of the most sublime ravine of Palestine. It is many hundred feet

deep, where but little else is seen than precipices of naked rocks,

containing here and there a grotto seemingly inaccessible to anything

but eagles; yet we were informed that these solitary caves were once

occupied by hermits, some of whom reduced their bodies to a condition

that four raisins per day supplied the cravings of appetite. Down to an

immense depth, we discovered a small stream tumbling over the rocks,

which we were told was the "Brook Cherith, that is before Jordan,"

where the Prophet Elijah was fed by ravens, while the famine prevailed

in Palestine.

We stopped for lunch under the shade of some crumbling walls and

pointed arches, where our generous sheik left us, his services being

no longer required. Before leaving, he inscribed, in beautiful Arabic,

his official name in my journal. Mounting our horses, we soon reached

Bethany, situated about two miles from Jerusalem. Its location is

pleasant and romantic, being built on the eastern slope of Mount

Olivet, partially surrounded by steep hills, encircled by old, decayed

terraces, supporting a few scattered fig and olive trees. It is a poor,

miserable village, with narrow, filthy streets; the whole presenting

a dismal appearance, yet a place of sacred interest. Here dwelt the

sisters, Mary and Martha, with Lazarus their brother. Here Christ

raised Lazarus from the tomb and presented him alive to his weeping

sisters. Here, too, was the house of Simon the leper, in which Mary

anointed Jesus with precious ointment and wiped his feet with her hair.

The sites of these events are still pointed out--the house of Simon,

that of Mary and Martha and the tomb of Lazarus. The latter is a deep

vault, partly excavated in the rock and partly lined with masonry.

We stopped our horses at the front of the entrance. This opens on a

winding staircase leading to a small chamber, whence a few steps more

lead to a small vault in which the body is said to have been placed. We

made but a short stay in this village, much to the disappointment of a

crowd of dirty, ragged customers, who clamored fearfully for backsheesh.

As we approached Jerusalem, we descended a steep hill, down a rocky,

winding, shelvy path, past an immense cemetery and the Garden of

Gethsemane, with its ornamental trees, gravel walks, flowers and

shrubbery, then around the towering battlements of Jerusalem, and soon

reached our encampment, well pleased with our three days' excursion.

I was much interested in the topographical appearance of the country

around about Jerusalem. The city is situated on a broad mountainous

ridge, between the two valleys of Hinnom and Kedron. All around,

from one to three miles distant, are loftier summits, consisting of

irregular, broken ridges, varying from fifty to two hundred feet above

the buildings of the city. They slope down, forming into small plains,

low valleys, and steep, rugged ravines, presenting a panoramic view,

beautiful and sublime. Along the western horizon runs a long range of

hills, about the same height as that on which the city stands.

On the south, some distance from the city, is the "Hill of Evil

Council," where it is said Caiaphas had a house where the priests and

elders met to compass the destruction of Jesus; it is now covered with

the ruins of some village. Northwards, rising conspicuously in the

distance, is "Neby Samuel," the ancient Mizpeh, which is distinguished

by its high towers. On the east, about half a mile from the city walls,

the Mount of Olives rises from the Valley of Jehoshaphat, olive trees

ornamenting its slopes, its summit crowned by a mosque, with its high

tapering minaret. Some portions of these hills show little else but

white rocks projecting from the soil, which is almost as white as the

rocks themselves; others are covered with fields of grain, and fig and

olive orchards.

The plateaus and vales are generally cultivated, and covered with

herbage and fig and olive trees. The ravines, especially the Hinnom

and Kedron, in places are so steep and rugged that nothing is seen,

scarcely, but a few olive trees here and there, growing upon narrow

terraces built upon the rocks and cliffs. The summit of the Mount of

Olives rises several hundred feet above the city, affording one of the

most commanding views of Jerusalem and its surroundings.

I ascended this mountain, and obtained a favorable position upon the

highest point on its summit, spent a happy hour surveying the "Holy

City," its environs, and the endless objects of rare and sacred

interest which formed the magnificent scenery around. Through the

olive trees along the declivity could be discerned the white top of

"Absalom's Pillar," and the grey excavated cliffs of Siloam; the high

walls of Jerusalem appeared with their square towers; the Mosque of

Omar, with its magnificent dome in the centre, occupying the site of

Araunah's threshing floor, and Solomon's Temple, around it a grassy

area, the whole encircled by olive and cypress trees; the two domes and

the strong square tower of the Church of the Sepulchre, the massive

towers of the citadel standing upon the Hill of Zion; in the distance

a long line of high hills, and low broken ranges of mountains, with

intervening vales, plateaus and wild ravines--the whole forming a

marvelous picture of varied beauty and magnificence.

It is astonishing, the number of cemeteries we observed around about

Jerusalem. It is truly said, that the "tombs" of the "Holy City" are

more numerous than its buildings. Nearly every hill and valley is

studded more or less with these monuments.

The slopes of Mount Moriah and Mount Olivet, and portions of the deep

valleys of Hinnom and Jehoshaphat, form exclusive burying places.

In viewing the multitude of tombs in the rocks and cliffs along the

ravines of Hinnom, we were forcibly reminded of the prophecy of

Jeremiah: "They shall bury in Tophet till there be no place. They have

built the high places of Tophet, which is in the valley of the son of

Hinnom, to burn their sons and daughters in the fire."

Here, at the bottom of the defile, amid its cliffs and rocky steeps

and gloomy scenes, the Israelites performed the worship of Moloch,

alluded to by Jeremiah. These heathen rites consisted in making a burnt

offering of children in the following manner: A statute of Moloch was

erected of gigantic proportions, consisting of brass, in the form of a

man's body, with a head like that of an ox. The interior was hollow, in

which was constructed a large furnace, by which means the whole statute

could easily be made red hot. The children to be sacrificed were then

placed in its arms, while drums were beaten to drown their cries. It is

asserted, however strange it may appear, that Solomon was the first who

formally introduced these fearful practices, though previous to this

they had been performed occasionally by the Israelites.

Seeing no lake, pond, stream, rivulet, nor scarcely a living well

or fountain in or around Jerusalem, we naturally inquired how its

inhabitants especially its former dense population, were supplied with

water. We were informed that within the walls of Jerusalem living wells

and fountains, at present, were comparatively unknown. Three small

fountains, in the lower part of the valley of Jehoshaphat, are said to

be the only waters that can be depended upon in the region around.

The city is chiefly supplied by means of its cisterns, every house of

any importance having one or more of these, so arranged that the winter

rains can be conducted into them, by means of pipes and ducts, from

the roofs and court yards. With suitable care the water in them can be

preserved pure and sweet during the whole summer. Besides these private

cisterns, there are many public tanks, pools and reservoirs in the city

and suburbs. We saw the ruins of aqueducts, cisterns and immense tanks,

which showed that in former periods great attention and a vast amount

of labor had been employed to secure supplies of water.

In every quarter of the site of the ancient city numerous reservoirs

and cisterns are discovered--some of immense capacity, excavated in

solid rock; others, formed upon the flat surface of the rock, built up

around with stones thickly lined with cement. One of these subterranean

reservoirs was discovered eighty feet below the surrounding surface.

Subterranean aqueducts lead in various directions from the cisterns,

frequently formed in the solid rock, extending many hundred yards. How

these numerous cisterns were supplied is still a great mystery. Some

imagine it was effected by conduits connecting with secret springs and

fountains a long distance beyond the city.

The Jewish rabbi, with whom we conversed, stated that many springs and

fountains which formerly supplied the inhabitants of Jerusalem, had

long since ceased to flow, but he expected the time was near when they

would be revived into living waters.

Jerusalem occupies but a small space--its walls are but a little

over two miles in circumference. Its population has been variously

estimated; the following particulars I believe are tolerably authentic:

Jews, nine thousand; Mohammedans, five thousand; Christians, about four

thousand, making a total of eighteen thousand.

The political and financial condition of the Jewish population is

not very flattering or prosperous. The people are generally poor

and oppressed, without means or opportunity of improving their

circumstances. They receive large contributions from Europe and

America, to aid in objects of charity, and in making small improvements

in the way of public buildings.

In our interview with the chief rabbi, we learned that foreign

influence is operating, in a small measure, in their favor toward

softening the feelings and moderating the rules of the Turkish

authorities; that they are allowed to purchase and hold title to real

estate; but they have no money to expend in this direction, and if they

had it would be discouraging under the present system of taxation.

All kinds of property are heavily taxed, and all private and public

enterprise is discouraged. A direct tax is levied on persons, cattle,

land and fruit trees; tobacco and silk pay about forty-two cents per

pound, and all other articles eight per cent., either in kind or money.

Near where the Temple formerly stood, is a small paved area where

the Jews have been permitted, during many centuries, to approach the

precincts of the site of the Temple of their forefathers, and lament

and wail over the ruins, and the desolation of their nation and

sanctuary. In this retired locality, each Friday, Jews of both sexes,

of all ages, and from every quarter of the world, are seen weeping,

bathing the stones with their tears, and lifting up their voices in

loud lamentation. No one can witness this scene without being touched

with feelings of the deepest sympathy, and the poet may well say:

"Oh, weep for those that wept by Babel's stream,

Whose shrines are desolate, whose land a dream;

Weep for the harp of Judah's broken spell,

Mourn--where their God hath dwelt, the godless dwell!"

Lorenzo Snow.

LETTER IX.

The Stone of Unction.--The Holy Sepulchre.--The Chapel of the

Angel.--Hill of Calvary.--The hole in which the Cross was

planted.--House of Pilate.--"Behold the Man!"--The true Cross.--A

terrible Massacre.--Turkish Guards.--Christianity despised by

Jews and Mohammedans.--Farewell to Jerusalem.--Gala day.--Arab

Agriculture.--Shechem.--Ferocious People.--The Olive.--Samaria.

Palestine, March 8th, 1873.

_Editor Deseret News_:

Among the variety of objects which claimed our attention while at

Jerusalem, was the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. It is an extensive

building, with a host of sacred relics and holy places, grouped

together within a few yards of one another; among others, the place

of the Savior's crucifixion; the spot where His body was anointed for

burial; where the Virgin stood and witnessed the crucifixion; the place

where His body was wrapped in linen clothes; the rent in the rock

produced by the earthquake; the place where the soldiers cast lots for

His raiment; the column to which He was bound when scourged; the place

where He was stripped by the soldiers; and the prison in which He was

incarcerated previous to being led to the place of crucifixion, etc.

In front of this building is a small area, occupied by a sort of bazar

for the sale of sacred relics, and used also as a place of gathering

for all classes of pilgrims. Within this building, near the door,

surrounded by a low railing, is the Stone of Unction, which consists

of a marble slab, on which the body of the Savior is said to have been

anointed for the burial. This, we were told, however, is not the real

stone, as that was concealed underneath to prevent devout pilgrims from

carrying it off or wearing it away by constant kissing, as was the case

with the bronze toe at St. Peter's, Rome. Several lamps are suspended

over this sacred spot, and kept constantly burning.

We proceeded to the apartment appropriated to the Holy Sepulchre,

twenty-six feet long by eighteen broad, ornamented by a dome. We

entered first a small apartment called the Chapel of the Angel, where

it is said he sat upon the stone which had been rolled away from the

door of the sepulchre. A portion of this stone stands upon a low

pedestal, though it is asserted that the real stone was stolen by the

Armenians, and is now exhibited in their chapel. From this apartment a

low narrow door opens into the vault of the sepulchre. It has a dome

roof sustained by short marble columns. The place where the Savior's

body is said to have lain, is covered by a marble slab, considerably

worn at the edges by the continued kissing of pilgrims. A large number

of gold and silver lamps are suspended over it, and kept constantly

burning. It is fitted up as an altar; above it are costly gifts,

thickly set with precious stones, presented by different sovereigns of

Europe.

A Greek priest was officiating when we entered, who signified his

recognition of our presence by scattering sweet perfumery in great

abundance over our persons. All pilgrims were sprinkled in like manner,

who were constantly crowding in upon their hands and knees, kissing the

cold marble, sobbing and bathing it with their tears. This is said to

have been hewn in the rock, but we could see no rock--the floor, tomb

and walls are all marble.

We ascended a flight of steps leading to an apartment or small chapel

which is said to cover the Hill of Calvary. Here was shown a rent or

hole in the rock, as that in which stood the cross while the Savior

hung upon it. Many other places were shown, which it is needless

to mention. After leaving this building, we went to the House of

Pilate, which is said to occupy the same locality as that of the Roman

governor; we saw but little, however, to satisfy us of the identity of

the Judgment Hall. We came to a building said to cover the place where

Jesus came forth wearing the purple robe and crown of thorns, when

Pilate exclaimed to the people. "Behold the man!" The place was pointed

out where the Savior sank under the weight of the cross, when Simon the

Cyrenian was compelled to take it up, and bear it after Him; also the

spot where Veronica appeared with a napkin to wipe the sweat off the

Savior's brow, when His portrait was miraculously impressed upon it.

This pretended relic is preserved as one of the chief in the Basilica

of St. Peter's at Rome.

Religious enthusiasts of opposite sects vied with each other in

searching out relics, and places to be reverenced and adored by people

of their respective persuasions, performing pilgrimages to the Holy

Land, their zeal, in some instances, carrying them beyond the bounds

of honesty, to practising deceit and imposition. Many of these places

had been remaining for centuries beneath the gradual accumulations of

debris, and could not be identified, either by history or tradition;

consequently, divine intimations were sought, miraculous tests applied,

and other methods resorted to in order to establish their claims to

genuineness.

Helena, the mother of Constantine, when about eighty years old, in the

fourth century, is said to have been divinely impressed to proceed to

Jerusalem and make sacred discoveries--to search out the true cross,

the holy sepulchre, and other relics and localities connected with

the crucifixion of the Savior. Accordingly she went to Jerusalem and,

enlisting the services of the inhabitants, instituted a search for

the cross of the Savior. Digging through the debris, some twenty feet

or more, at length three crosses were discovered, together with the

tablet, the nails and crown of thorns. The tablet or inscription, "This

is Jesus the King of the Jews," being separated from the crosses,

therefore the true cross could not be identified. At last a remedy was

discovered. A lady of quality was confined upon her bed in Jerusalem,

of a fatal disease. The three crosses were successively presented to

her; the two first without effect, but on the approach of the third,

she sprang from her dying couch perfectly restored. Thus the identity

of the true cross was established. The pillar to which Christ is said

to have been bound when He was scourged, is carefully secured, that

it may not be stolen by pilgrims, who are only permitted to touch it

with a small, round stick, some four feet long or more, kept for this

purpose. The stick, after having one end put in contact with the sacred

relic, is then kissed by the pilgrims with great fervor and vehemence.

While present we witnessed many instances of this fervent and striking

devotion.

We visited the reputed Garden of Gethsemane, which belongs to the

Latin Church. An opposition one has recently been established by the

Greek Church. As soon as the trees have sufficiently grown, and other

fixtures remained long enough to impart an ancient and venerable

appearance, it will then be exhibited to devout pilgrims as the real,

genuine Garden of Gethsemane.

The low, sunken condition of Christianity in Jerusalem is pretty

clearly illustrated in the following description of scenes enacted

in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. On Easter eve, each successive

year, it is pretended that holy fire descends from heaven, lighting up

all the lamps in the Holy Sepulchre. On this occasion multitudes of

enthusiastic pilgrims are assembled from every quarter of the globe,

awaiting with burning anxiety to participate in its benefits, and to

receive its holy influences. Just before the prescribed moment for this

miraculous descent, the Greek Patriarch enters the tomb, alone, and

presently gives out, through a hole in the wall, the holy fire, to the

eager and excited multitude.

In former years all the churches participated in the performance of

these rites, but latterly have desisted, one after another, till, at

present, this practice is continued only by the Greek Church. At these

extraordinary scenes, very serious accidents frequently occur--old men

and women crushed and trampled to pieces, or perhaps quarrels arise

between rival sects, resulting in shooting and stabbing one another.

In 1834, deplorable and fearful scenes were enacted in that sacred

building. While the church was crowded with Christian pilgrims, a

contention arose, in which the Turkish guards engaged; the confusion

soon became general, and directly grew into a terrible battle. The

scene of horror cannot be described. Numbers were bayoneted or knocked

down with the butt ends of muskets, and their blood and brains

scattered upon the wall and pavement, each seeming intent to destroy

his fellow, or save himself from immediate destruction. Many were

pulled down and trampled to death while endeavoring to escape from

the building. When order was restored, the dead were lying in heaps

around, and even upon the Stone of Unction the bodies of the dead were

piled up, and in some places the wounded and dead were thrown together

promiscuously, one upon another, five feet high or more.

The Turkish government is obliged to keep a guard constantly watching

at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, to prevent these contentions and

fightings between the rival Christian churches.

These contradictions, contentions and impositions by the rival

Christian sects, in Jerusalem, render the Christian religion a subject

of scorn and contempt, both to the Jews and Mohammedans, and it is

certainly a matter of serious regret that, in this enlightened age of

Christianity, such things should exist in this sacred locality where

our holy religion was established, and our Savior martyred.

Syria, March 11th, 1873.

Leaving Jerusalem, we ascend by a steep, rocky, winding path to the

commanding heights of Mount Scopus, where, turning backward, we take

a long, lingering look at the "Holy City"--its noble domes, its high,

tapering minarets, and its surrounding mountains. We descend the

mountain into a naked, desolate region, our path lying over rocky

plateaus, through deep ravines, and over barren hills covered with

loose stones and sharp rocks. A small village is seen away to our left

on a lofty hill, flags and streamers flying, guns firing, and groups

of men and women gaily attired, in open air, rejoicing in the dance.

We pass several towns perched among the gray rocks, on the mountain

slopes, or crowning the summits of high hills, also several sites of

ancient towns overspread with ruins. Sterility and barrenness form

the general features of the country. The trees are few, gnarled and

stunted, here and there sticking out from rents and holes in the rocks,

and broken, decayed terraces, and still clinging to the cliffs.

The second day we found the hills and glens less rugged, the country

improving in general appearance, the soil more fertile and better

cultivated. We passed through many winding valleys with landscape

beautiful and picturesque, the hills terraced from base to summit,

supporting vines, fig and olive trees, the scenery enlivened by wild

flowers, bright and gay, springing up from the green, luxuriant

herbage. The Arab is seen with his primitive plow and diminutive

oxen, breaking up his ground; a Bedouin on his fleet steed, with his

brass-bound gun suspended over his shoulder, galloping over the hills;

the Mussulman, with his wives and children, scantily dressed, plucking

the weeds from his patch of grain; peasants passing in their gay

dresses of red and green; long strings of mules, donkeys and camels,

winding along the tortuous path; the shepherd preceding his flock of

sheep and goals, leading them along the mountain slopes or standing

with them clustered around a favorite fountain.

We are now approaching Nablous, a modern town on the site of the

ancient Shechem, a name familiar to the Biblical reader. Clambering up

a steep, rocky path, we arrive at the crest of a lofty ridge, where

we enjoy a lovely, romantic scene--the finest and most pleasing since

leaving Jerusalem. Before us lies an undulating plain, stretching

far away northward, encircled by picturesque hills, no object on its

surface to break the view; around its borders are small groves of

orange trees, and here and there clumps and rows of olives, giving it

the appearance of a European park. The villages here as elsewhere,

instead of being located on the plain, are, for security, built on the

crest of steep hills, or high up on the acclivities.

The people we now meet appear different in character, manners and dress

from those occupying the country we have passed. They look daring and

ferocious, ready to commence hostilities on the slightest provocation.

Armed cap-a-pie with a flintlock shot-gun, a huge dagger sticking in

front of their girdle, pistols and a large knobheaded club, they seem

pleased in displaying these arms, and, judging from their sturdy,

athletic appearance, I have no doubt they could employ them to great

advantage. We frequently met these fellows armed in this manner,

driving along a miserable looking, half-starved donkey, loaded probably

with all they possessed, except arms and shabby clothing. There is,

however, a cause for this oddity. A bloody feud, most likely, exists

between one family and some other family, which was commenced hundreds

of years ago by their ancestors. Some person was killed, and one of

that person's family killed another in return; then another was killed

in revenge, and thus it has continued until the present. Every member

of the family is in danger, and lives in dread--any moment the avenger

of blood may pounce upon him. Therefore he is armed at all hours and

in all places--when leading his flocks on the mountain, his donkey on

the road, or when plowing in the field, ofttimes having to flee from

house and home, and abide with strangers. This fearful state of things

arises from the following law of the Koran: "O, true believers, the

law of retaliation is ordained to you for the slain--the free shall

die for the free." I suppose Mahomet drew this from the Old Testament,

but failed to make the corresponding merciful arrangements--"cities of

refuge."

The second night we camped in a lovely spot, in the suburbs of

Nablous. This city, known in Bible history as Shechem, possesses the

most charming and picturesque scenery of any site in Palestine. It

is situated along the base of Mount Gerizim, on the south side of a

verdant valley, sparkling with streams and fountains, and decorated

with olive trees, gardens and fruit orchards. The cliffs, hills and

mountain slopes, supporting terraces, rising one above another in

regular gradation, growing narrow strips of waving grain, together

with fig, olive and orange trees. The valley is clothed in the

richest foliage and vegetation. Viewed from different points, the

city, with its white-domed buildings, and its mosques and towering

minarets, presents a charming picture. Nablous contains eight thousand

inhabitants, only five hundred of whom are Christians. The buildings

are constructed chiefly of stone; in style and general appearance

they are similar to those in Jerusalem. The streets, as in all other

towns in Palestine, are narrow, crooked and extremely filthy. The

houses project over and cover them, being supported on arches. The

inhabitants have the reputation of mistreating strangers, especially

ladies. Prompted by curiosity, no doubt, they visited our tents by

multitudes. In turn, we perambulated their filthy city, experiencing no

illtreatment.

In Shechem, as we learn from sacred history, Simeon and Levi avenged

the dishonor of their sister Dinah, by murdering the whole population

of the city, having first decoyed them into complete disability of

defending themselves. It was the first spot where Abraham pitched his

tent in Canaan--"Place of Shechem at the oak of Moreh." Jacob, also,

on his return from Mesopotamia, pitched his tent in this then pastoral

region. This is the place where Jacob sent his favorite son, Joseph,

to look after his brethren. "A certain man found him wandering in the

field," and directed him to Dothan, about twelve miles north, where

they had removed. Here Rehoboam was proclaimed king over all Israel;

and not long afterwards the ten tribes revolted, and made Jeroboam, the

son of Nebat, king, and established Shechem as the capital.

Soap, cotton and oil are the chief productions at Nablous. The olive

is extensively cultivated, and is seen around every village and hamlet

Clothed in midwinter, with their soft, gray foliage, they always impart

beauty and add an air of cheerfulness to the landscape. The olive is

slow in its growth, requiring from twelve to fifteen years before

it begins to pay the expense of cultivation. It is long-lived--one

thousand years and upwards. The older ones have a remarkably venerable

appearance, with their great gnarled and furrowed stems, especially

when representing the last stages of life's decline. Usually the fruit

ripens in November and December, and is beaten off with long sticks,

and gathered by women and children, who carry it away in baskets on

their heads to the press, where the oil is extracted by an apparatus

quite rude and primitive. The berries are placed in a round cavity

excavated in a rock, when a huge stone is rolled over them by oxen or

manual force. The pulp is bound up in mats, placed under the press,

which is forced down by a screw or heavy beam. The liquor is partially

heated, the oil is then skimmed and put into skins or earthen jars.

From Nablous (Shechem) to Samaria, our next principal point, we pass

through a lovely country--over terraced hills, and winding through

partially cultivated valleys, with fields of grain two-thirds grown and

orchards of figs and apricots. Small villages are seen crowning summits

of distant hills or perched high up their rocky sides, seldom appearing

in the rich vales below.

Samaria contains about sixty buildings, with four hundred inhabitants.

It occupies a narrow, rocky plateau, midway up the side of the steep,

lofty hill. In the midst of a gentle shower, we rode up to the village

through a narrow, winding path, climbing over large boulders and

forked, sloping, conical, shelving and slippery rocks. Halting a few

minutes, we then ascended to the summit, on which is an open area,

formerly surrounded by columns, only a few of which are now standing.

In descending the mountain, we reached a place on its slope, covered

with magnificent ruins--a quantity of columns, some standing, others

broken and lying in fragments over the ground. Sixty or more of these

pillars, two feet in diameter, eighteen in height, are standing without

their capitals, deeply sunk in the ground. It is supposed that these

columns were designed to decorate the principal street of the ancient

city. Large quantities of hewn stone are strewed around over the plowed

fields and orchards in the valley below, and piled into the terraces

which partially encircle the hill.

In viewing these immense ruins, I was reminded of the fearful

prediction of Micah: "I will make Samaria as an heap of the field, and

as plantings of a vineyard, and I will pour down the stones thereof

into the valley, and I will discover the foundations thereof."

Lorenzo Snow.

LETTER X.

Famous Scripture locality.--Village of robbers.--Battlefield

of Palestine.--Mounts Tabor and Hermon.--Nazareth.--The Holy

Grotto.--Table of Christ.--Arab plows.--Cana of Galilee.--Arab

school.--Sea of Galilee.--Tiberias.--Bedouin spinsters.--Residence of

Mary Magdalene.--Serenaded by Bedouins.--Backsheesh.

Syria, March 15th, 1873.

_Editor Deseret News_:

Leaving Samaria, we wind up a rocky acclivity and pass through an

avenue of olive trees, to a smart looking village, located on a stony

ridge. Our road now lies over low hills covered with dwarf oak and

hawthorn, through rich valleys abounding in wheat fields, fig orchards

and groves of venerable olive trees, with gnarled and furrowed trunks,

clothed with gray foliage, and along over hills whose terraced sides

are covered with vineyards. Several villages are seen dotting the

hill sides or crowning their lofty summits. We passed through some

low, winding ravines. These are the passes so often defended by the

"ten thousands of Ephraim and thousands of Mannasseh," against their

northern invaders. In the midst of these hills, the famous Gideon, the

hero of Mannasseh, was nurtured and reared; through these passes he

marched at the head of his little army against the Midianites, who were

lying in multitudes in the Valley of Jezreel.

We passed a large village surrounded by olive groves. Its inhabitants

have a bad reputation. It is said that they will not miss an

opportunity of plundering the solitary traveler when found in the

neighboring glens.

Friday, 7th, we camped at Jenin, interpreted "fountain of gardens." It

contains three thousand inhabitants, chiefly Mohammedans. The town is

charmingly situated, commanding a view of the great Plain of Esdraelon.

The low hills behind are overspread by shrubbery, with here and there

patches of olives. Around the town the landscape is clothed in rich

verdure, variegated with flowers of brilliant colors; also fine gardens

encircled by hedges of cactus of immense growth, and palm trees here

and there raising their graceful heads. The Plain of Esdraelon, the

famous battlefield of Palestine, stretches far away, from fifteen to

twenty miles to the base of the mountains, below Nazareth, on one

side enclosed by the hills of Galilee, on the other by the mountains

of Samaria, the whole forming one vast, unbroken expanse of verdure.

In all this plain, not a village or hamlet appears, though they are

seen dotting the slopes of the surrounding hills, or perched on their

rocky summits. Long strings of Bedouin tents are here and there strung

along its borders, and numerous flocks and herds are fattening on its

luxuriant herbage.

Several fierce looking Arabs visited our tents in the evening, whose

appearance failed to impress us favorably respecting their future

intentions; our guards occasionally fired a gun during the night,

indicating their presence and preparation for defense. The following

morning we passed over the Plain of Esdraelon. We now have a view of

Mount Tabor, dotted with oaks from base to summit, and Mount Hermon,

panoplied in snow. After descending a steep, rocky ridge, we wind

through a dreary glen, opening into the valley of Nazareth. We rode

through the crooked, filthy and narrow streets of the city of Nazareth,

and pitched our tents near its borders. The town is located in narrow

ravines, and on the narrow, rocky declivities by which they are

separated. A little valley opens out before it, about one mile long and

one-half mile in breadth, engirdled by high, bleak hills. The valley is

divided into small, plowed fields, in the centre of which are patches

of gardens, enclosed by hedges of cactus.

The Franciscan convent is the most prominent structure, then a mosque

with its white tapering minaret looms up from among the low buildings.

The city contains four thousand inhabitants, the larger portion of whom

are Christians.

Nazareth is remarkable for being the home of the Savior's boyhood--the

scenes of his private life. Many objects and places are shown,

associated with the Virgin and the Savior--the "Holy Grotto," where

the angel announced to Mary that she was favored of the Highest: the

"Workshop of Joseph," in which Jesus worked; the "Table of Christ,"

etc., but having little faith in their identity, I waive description.

We remained over Sunday, and next morning pursued our way, leading over

some fine valleys under moderate cultivation. Arabs were plowing the

fields. Their plows, and mode of using them, are remarkably simple and

primitive. This instrument consists of a crooked stick, four inches

in diameter, shod with iron six inches wide, tapered to a point, a

wooden peg through the top forming the handle. In the middle of this

stick, the end of a small round pole is fastened, the opposite end

is attached to the yoke by strings or ropes. The yoke is formed by a

short, straight pole, with bows partly of wood and partly of ropes. It

is placed upon the necks of two dwarfed, wretched oxen or cows, the

size of our ordinary yearlings. In one hand the Arab holds the handle

of his plow, in the other flourishes a long stick, by virtue of which

the machine is put in motion, and its velocity regulated. It works into

the soil about four inches, breaking the same in breadth. The land,

under this mode of cultivation, will yield, per acre, probably six or

eight bushels. Under proper management, it would produce five times the

amount.

We stopped at an Arab village, known in Bible history as Cana of

Galilee, consisting of a few low, dirty dwellings. We dismounted and

entered a small, miserable structure, called a chapel, containing some

old stone pots, which once, as we were informed, contained the water

which Jesus converted into wine, at the wedding. Withdrawing from

this place of relics, I entered a hall some fifteen feet in length by

thirteen in breadth, divested of door and windows, occupied by Arab

children as a schoolroom. Some thirty or forty boys, seated in rows

upon the ground, each with a small tablet, covered with characters,

were chanting their lessons very loud and with remarkable energy. This

chanting and repeating together is the usual method adopted by the

Arab teacher in instructing "the young idea how to shoot," it being

maintained that it fixes more indelibly the principle in the memory.

However this may be, I am certain the chanting scene was strikingly

impressed on my memory, and the picturesque appearance and noisy

characteristics of an Arab school cannot be forgotten.

At length we reach the summit of a lofty mountain and look abroad on

the vale of Gennesareth, and down one thousand feet upon the Sea of

Galilee, whose surging waves were once stilled, and the howling tempest

silenced, by the voice of the Savior. Descending the steep declivity,

we spread our tents among some old ruins, rent walls, and crumbling

towers, directly upon the shore. The effects of the great earthquake of

1837 are everywhere distinctly visible.

The Sea of Galilee is about fifteen miles long, from six to seven

broad, though, owing to the remarkable clearness of the atmosphere,

it looks much smaller. It occupies the bottom of a deep basin, the

sides of which shelve down with gradual slopes from the summits of the

surrounding hills. On one side, these hills or mountains rise nearly

two thousand feet, intersected by deep ravines. The Jordan flows into

it from the east, and passes out at the south. It is about seven

hundred feet above the level of the Dead Sea, into which the Jordan

empties, after accomplishing a remarkably serpentine tour through the

valley which bears its name. I here introduce from the pen of my sister:

AT THE SEA OF GALILEE.

I have stood on the shore of the beautiful sea,

The renowned and immortalized Galilee,

When 'twas wrapped in repose, at eventide,

Like a royal queen in her regal pride.

No sound was astir--not a murmuring wave--

Not a motion was seen but the tremulous lave,

A gentle heave, of the water's crest--

As the infant breathes on its mother's breast.

I thought of the present--the past; it seemed

That the silent sea with instruction teemed;

For often, indeed, the heart can hear

What never, in sound, has approached the ear.

Full oft has silence been richly fraught

With treasures of wisdom and stores of thought;

With sacred, heavenly whisperings, too,

That are sweeter than roses, and honey dew.

There's a depth in the soul, that's beyond the reach

Of all earthly sound--of all human speech,

A fiber too sacred and pure to chime

With the cold, dull music of Earth and Time.

'Tis the heart's receptacle, naught can supply

But the streams that flow from the fount on high,

An instinct divine, of immortal worth,

An inherited gift, through primeval birth.

* * * * * * *

Again, when the shades of night were gone,

In the clear bright rays of the morning dawn,

I walked on the bank of this self-same sea,

Where once our Redeemer was wont to be.

Where, "Lord save, or I perish," was Peter's prayer;

Befitting the weak and the faithless elsewhere.

And here, while admiring this Scriptural sea,

Th' bold vista of Time brought th' past up to me.

Embossed with events when the Prince of Life

Endured this world's hatred, its envy and strife;

When, in Him, the Omniptent was revealed,

And, by Him, the wide breach of the law was healed.

The gates He unbarred, and led the way,

Through the shadow of death to the courts of day;

And "led captivity captive" when

"He ascended on high, and gave gifts unto men."

Damascus, Syria, March 17th, 1873.

We are tented in the suburbs of Tiberias, which is a small village

of two thousand inhabitants. It numbers eight hundred Jews, poor,

sickly-looking and friendless, an appearance, unfortunately, too

applicable to the generality of this people whom we saw in the towns

and cities of Palestine. They are permitted to occupy a small area in

the middle of the town, where they have erected small synagogues, and

established some common schools.

Close upon the shore is a Latin convent, which stands on the spot,

as we were informed, where the scene of the miraculous draught of

fishes occurred. Tiberias was built by Herod, the murderer of John the

Baptist, in honor of the Roman Emperor, and was the capital of the

province of Galilee.

The next morning we moved camp up the lake six miles. President Smith,

Professor Carrington and T. W. Jennings, with two American gentlemen,

taking boat and making the excursion by water; the remainder of the

company, with myself, mounted horses and followed the shore. Our ride

was interesting and cheering, under the influence of a smiling sun, and

in an atmosphere of Egyptian balminess, far below the cold breezes of

the hills of Galilee. We overtook some Bedouin ladies, each perched on

the hump of a camel, traveling in the same direction, chanting their

native songs very plaintively. Our young Arab guide, with becoming

suavity, engaged them in an interesting conversation, the general

features of which he afterwards explained. They informed him that they

had no husbands, which circumstance they reckoned a great misfortune.

This was attributable, they said, to one cause only. The laws and

customs of their country permitted the father to dispose of his

daughter for any stipulated amount, the price varying from five hundred

to eight thousand francs, according to the beauty and accomplishments

of the lady in question; that they could readily procure husbands, but

the young gentlemen who fancied them, and whom they wished to favor,

were not prepared to meet the exorbitant demands of their fathers;

consequently they were not married, which they regretted exceedingly.

It was the custom of the ladies, they said, to marry early, at the

age of twelve or thirteen years; that they themselves were rising

of twenty, a circumstance which made them uncomfortable and very

melancholy.

We passed a cluster of low houses, resembling hovels more than human

dwellings. This was formerly the residence of Mary Magdalene, whom the

Savior delivered from the power of demons. Our path now lay along the

gravelly shore of the sea, and through tangled thickets of thorns,

cane and tall nettles, occasionally passing clumps of oleanders,

adorned with blushing roses, peeping out beneath their green luxuriant

foliage. At length we reached our camping ground, a romantic spot--a

pretty patch of green sward, formed of clover and other grasses,

near a remarkably large fountain, whose sparkling waters burst forth

beneath a large gray mountain and swept down into the sea some yards

below. A camp of wild Bedouins, on our approach, comprehending our

wishes, generously consented to withdraw to a distant locality. Before

leaving, however, they proposed to honor us with a serenade. Their

instruments were strikingly rude, and, as we presently learned, better

adapted to loud, shrill noise than to musical harmony. Our animals

were not excitable under ordinary circumstances, but this was a little

too much for their nerves--looking towards the tempestous sounds they

commenced snorting, prancing, breaking away, and rushing off in various

directions. In this state of things, we saw that, however flattering

the serenade might be to our vanity, there was danger of a drawback to

our progress as tourists; hence we intimated to our Bedouin admirers

that though we appreciated the honors they were laboring to bestow,

should it suit their convenience to terminate at once the peculiar

entertainment we should consider ourselves eminently favored. They

closed the amusement with a modest suggestion that some backsheesh was

due for their services, which having paid, our muleteers hurried off in

search of the animals.

Lorenzo Snow.

LETTER XI.

At Athens.--Plains of Attica.--Hill of Mars.--Galilee.--Scriptural

reminiscences.--Fountain of Dan.--Cesarea Philippi.--Damascus.--An

unfortunate Architect.

Athens, Greece, April 10th, 1873.

_Editor Deseret News_:

We are in the city of Athens, surrounded by the ruined temples and

crumbling walls of ancient Greece; have stood on the lofty summit of

the Acropolis, beside the marble columns of the Parthenon, in the midst

of broken pillars and fallen temples, looking down on modern Athens,

the Plains of Attica, the famous Hill of Mars, and off on the "Flowery

Hymettus." We have met the King of Greece on the sidewalk of Athens,

cane in hand, and in simple costume, like an ordinary gentleman; have

seen the nation's deputies debating in parliament, and have spent an

evening at tea with our American minister; have sailed on the classical

waters of the Mediterranean, up the Archipelago, among its beautiful

islands. We have viewed Constantinople, its numerous mosques with

swelling domes and pointed minarets, and promenaded its dark, winding

avenues, through its wilderness of bazars, have seen the Sultan--all,

and a thousand things else, since leaving Palestine. Therefore, it is

possible an apology is due for continuing my descriptions of the Holy

Land. Syria and Palestine, in many respects, we have found the most

interesting of any country we have visited, as regards the character

and condition of the people, its natural scenery, its having formed

the great theatre, where were displayed, during many centuries, the

dealings of God with favored Israel, as well as its being the opening

scene of the Gospel dispensation; besides embracing the sites and

melancholy ruins of ancient cities so familiar to the Biblical student.

I now return to Galilee. I ascended the mountain above "The Fountain

of the Fig Tree," to a point overlooking our camp and commanding

a view of the Plain of Gennesareth, the Sea of Galilee, and the

towering summit of Mount Hermon. Here I employed the passing moments

in serious reflections on the associations called forth by the

peculiar circumstances around. A great portion of the Savior's life

was spent in the region around the Sea of Galilee. After having been

expelled from Nazareth, His native city, by His own townspeople, He

came down from the hilly country of Galilee, and made his home upon

these shores, chose His Twelve Apostles, taught the people in their

towns and villages and on the seaside, as they flocked around Him in

multitudes. He performed His mighty works in the cities of Chorazin,

Bethsaida and Capernaum, which stood on these shores, filled with

inhabitants. Eighteen centuries have wrought marvelous and fearful

changes in the scenery and condition of this locality. When the Savior

and His Apostles were coasting along these shores, addressing anxious

multitudes, healing the sick, unstopping the ears of the deaf, giving

sight to the blind, and raising the dead, Tiberias, adorned with its

numerous palaces and temples, stood in the zenith of its glory, its

citizens reveling in splendor and luxury, and its many priests, in

imposing costumes, full of studied systematic knowledge of the law

and the Prophets, and glowing with pious zeal to entrap and destroy

the Apostles and the Savior of the world. Infamy covers the memory

of those priests, and not a single building of that magnificent city

remains, and nothing is seen but patches of low decaying walls, a few

heaps of hewn stone, and granite columns strewed around. The country

about the Sea of Galilee was then densely populated--cities and towns

occupied its shores, the summits and slopes of the surrounding hills.

Bethsaida, Capernaum, Chorazin and many larger cities were teeming with

inhabitants and in the height of prosperity. The Plain of Gennesareth,

under the finest state of cultivation, appeared like a paradise of

gardens, growing luxuriantly the choicest of fruits. This plain is now

overspread with thorns and tall nettles, and everywhere marked by the

finger of desolation. Those cities are now left without an inhabitant,

and their places covered with heaps of decaying stones and prostrate

walls. Capernaum is so nearly annihilated that even the place it

occupied is a subject of keenest dispute among travelers; and even

now I see before me, in the vicinity of our tents, decaying relics,

considered by some to designate the locality of that ancient city.

We left the Sea of Galilee, and continued our route through an

improving country, crossed an old Roman road, through fields of grain,

beans and lentils, passing several large camps of Bedouins, and for the

night pitched our tents at a large fountain, near which a company of

Arabs were engaged in digging a sect, to water a rich plain below. This

night was characterized by a concert of striking wildness, performed

by a great multitude of musical frogs in adjacent marshes, joined by

howling dogs in an Arab camp, mingled with loud responses of the hoarse

voices of our pack-mules, combined with a hideous chorus of sharp

yelping jackals in the neighboring glens.

The next day we passed several long lines of black tents of the

Bedouins, and numerous herds of cattle feeding in the plains and rich

valleys. They were dwarfed, and were degenerated like the inhabitants

of the country. We lunched at the "Fountain of Dan," one of the great

sources of the Jordan, in the shade of a venerable tree, remarkable for

the immense are covered by its branches. On our departure, two Arabs

stopped to enjoy their bread and cheese in its cooling shade. While

thus occupied they were surprised by a marauding party of Bedouins, who

relieved them of all their little conveniences. While sympathizing in

their misfortunes, we were somewhat pleased that we had escaped their

experience. We camped at Cesarea Philippi, on the bank of a rushing

stream, in the midst of a beautiful grove. Here is the great fountain

which forms the main source of the Jordan, the most celebrated of

rivers. From this immense fountain the waters collect, and soon form

into a rapid torrent, rushing along with great impetuosity, tumbling

over rocks, foaming and scattering its spray in all directions. At

this place, that remarkable conversation occurred between Christ and

His Apostles, in which Peter affirmed that Jesus was "the Christ, the

Son of the living God." And Jesus answered and said unto him, "Blessed

art thou, Simon Barjona, for flesh and blood hath not revealed it unto

thee, but my Father which is in heaven: And I say also unto thee, that

thou art Peter, and upon this rock I will build my church, and the

gates of hell shall not prevail against it;" thus securing to every

person the privilege of obtaining a like revelation.

The modern village consists of some forty houses massed together with

flat roofs, on which the dirty and filthy inhabitants sleep in the

summer season, to prevent being eaten by flies and bedbugs, and bitten

by scorpions, which they are too lazy to destroy.

The following morning, leaving Cesarea Philippi, we pass over a well

watered country, whose inhabitants possess more energy and enterprise,

improving, in a small degree, a few of the natural advantages which

surround them. We camped at night near what is said to have been

"one of the burial places of Nimrod;" and the next day, after an

interesting ride of a few hours, on ascending an eminence, a panorama

of great beauty and magnificence burst upon our view--the city of

Damascus, "the Pearl of the East," its wide extended plains, on which

are a hundred villages, numerous mosques looming up here and there,

above the immense, spreading mass of broad, white roofs, their great

swelling domes and tapering minarets adorned with golden crescents,

the great Plain of Damascus, ornamented with rich fields and beautiful

gardens, groves of popular and walnut, orchards of figs, apricots and

pomegranates, and numerous vineyards, sprinkled here and there with

tall, conical cypresses, and now and then a palm lifting its graceful

head, stretching east far away till lost beneath the gray horizon

northward, till reaching the mountains of Anti-Lebanon, and away south,

where it is bounded by the river Pharpar, of Scripture memory. The

picturesque appearance of the circling hills and mountains casts an air

of singular enchantment around this profoundly magnificent scenery--the

long bare ridge of Anti-Lebanon, the snow-capped peak of Hermon,

distant some forty miles, a multitude of beautiful conical hills,

and still beyond, a long ridge of pale blue mountains, the "Hills of

Bashan."

Passing along this plain, we entered Damascus, rode through some of

its principal streets and camped outside the walls, on the banks of

the Abana. Much of the richness and beauty of the Plain of Damascus is

owing to the invigorating influences of this stream of Bible celebrity,

which flows through it from west to east, and is conducted from its

channel, and carried on to the plain. Another mode of irrigation,

however, is adopted in places where the Abana cannot be reached.

It being rather peculiar, I will describe it: A well is first dug

till water is discovered; the slope of the plain is then followed,

when another is sunk, forty or fifty yards distant; the two are then

connected by a subterranean channel, leaving sufficient fall for the

water to flow. In this manner a long line of wells is constructed,

and the stream of water thus secured is at last on a level with the

surface, when it is ready to be used. The plain has a great number of

these curious aqueducts, several of which extend along from two to

three miles underground. Where the waters of one are spreading life

and verdure over the surface, another below is gathering a new supply,

obtaining it, in some measure, from the surplus of the former, which

soaks through the soil.

We called on the American Consul, who treated us courteously and

assisted us in accomplishing the object of our visit to Damascus.

Before we left, he spent an hour under our tent in conversation

mutually agreeable. We visited Prince Abd-el-Kader, who, during

the invasion of Algiers by the French, fought so valiantly to

preserve the freedom of his country. The interview was pleasant

and interesting--Mocha, in elegant cups, served in Oriental style,

illustrated his good feelings and respectful consideration.

Damascus is supposed to be nearly four thousand years old, the oldest

city in the world. Some affirm that it was founded by Uz, the son

of Aram. At least, it was a noted place in the days of Abraham--the

steward of his house was mentioned as "Eliezer of Damascus." The

city is about four miles in circumference, and contains one hundred

and fifty thousand inhabitants--about eighteen thousand of these are

Christians, six thousand Jews, and the rest Mohammedans. The Christian

population, previous to the massacre of 1860, numbered about thirty-two

thousand. During the three days of those bloody and heart rending

scenes, it is supposed that nearly three thousand Christians were

murdered. Their private dwellings and churches were burned, their

property destroyed, and the survivors driven forth from their homes

penniless, with no means of support. Women and girls were seized and

compelled to suffer the most fearful of all forms of slavery. Many of

the buildings of these sufferers still lie in ruins. In walking the

streets of Damascus, among the staring crowds, I imagined there was

discernable, in the sombre countenances of many of the people, similar

feelings to those which prompted the massacre of 1860, and that they

were only waiting an opportunity.

Damascus is noted for the number of its mosques. We gained access to

the principal one, partly through the courtesy of our American Consul,

and partly through the stimulating influence of a golden Napoleon.

On entering we pulled off our boots and put on slippers. In Catholic

countries, on entering places of worship, taking off the hat is the

invariable requisition, while in Mohammedan jurisdiction the temple of

devotion cannot be entered without taking "off the shoes," while the

_chapeau_ may remain undisturbed. This ancient structure, the "Grand

Harem," as it is termed, is second only to the Mosque of Omar. The

Mosque and square cover an area in length of eleven hundred feet, and

eight hundred feet in breadth. It has three styles of architecture, and

is of great antiquity. It was originally Pagan, then Syrian Christian,

and now Mohammedan. On one side it has a court surrounded by cloisters

with arches in front, resting on columns of granite, limestone and

marble. It has three minarets--the "Western Minaret," the "Minaret

of the Bride," and the "Minaret of Jesus." According to Mohammedan

tradition, when Christ comes to judge the world He will first appear

upon this minaret, bearing His name, He will then enter the mosque, and

summon to His presence men of every denomination. Under this mosque

is a cave containing a casket of gold, in which is said to be the

veritable head of John the Baptist. Any doubts we may have cherished

of its identity we refrained from expressing, the same as when shown

similar curiosities in the more enlightened Christian churches. We

ascended one of the minarets, where we had a splendid view of Damascus

and its environs.

A gentleman who spent several weeks in Damascus, hunting relics

and curiosities, related to me the following anecdote concerning

the founding of an ancient mosque, which stood in sight of our

encampment. The Sultan, wishing to erect a mosque, engaged a

distinguished architect, giving him instructions as to the dimension,

style and location, fixing the site in the centre of Damascus. The

architect, having completed the work, repaired to the Sultan to

report his proceedings, and claim his reward. The Sultan enquired

if he had followed his directions. He replied that he had built the

mosque according to instructions in every particular, that it was

beautiful and magnificent, and he felt assured the Sultan would be

highly gratified; but he had ventured to depart in one item from his

instructions--considering that Damascus had a tendency to spread

in one particular direction, he had located the mosque a short

distance towards that point, from the centre of the city. The Sultan

graciously complimented him on his peculiar foresight, dismissed him

with flattering expressions, told him to go home, and a commissioner

should be sent to examine his work, and if approved, he should be

abundantly rewarded. No sooner, however, had he returned, than an

order was sent by the Sultan to have him beheaded immediately, and the

following inscription engraved upon his tomb, "Let this architect's

head be restored when this mosque becomes the centre of Damascus." The

gentleman said he read this inscription, in Arabic, on a decaying tomb

near the mosque.

The external view of the private dwellings of the people is not

inviting. The rough mud walls and projecting upper chambers, supported

by decaying timbers, have a singularly rickety appearance. The entrance

is by a miserable looking doorway through a narrow, winding passage,

and not unfrequently through a stable-yard; and around the whole is

cast an air of peculiar squalidness. The inside, however, exhibits a

better complexion; many are neat and comfortable, and some approach to

splendor, and even gorgeousness, have an open court with ornamented

pavements, a marble basin in the centre, surrounded with _jets d'eau_,

citron, lemon and orange trees, and flowering shrubs, affording

shade and filling the air with perfume. The apartments are furnished

with chairs and sofas, with soft cushions, sometimes covered with

embroidered silk and satin, the walls wainscotted, carved and gilded,

and the ceiling covered with ornaments.

A fine macadamized road leading over some fifty miles, from Damascus

to Beyrout, constructed by a French company, is the only decent road

in Syria or Palestine. We passed over this thoroughfare through an

interesting country, possessing natural scenery of peculiar beauty

and grandeur, arriving at Beyrout, a seaport on the Mediterranean, in

renewed health and vigor, gratified and instructed by our tour through

Syria and Palestine.

Lorenzo Snow.

LETTER XII.

Beyrout.--Protestant college and schools.--Embark for

Constantinople.--Island of Cyprus.--Mount Olympus.--Sea of

Marmora.--Arrival at the Turkish Metropolis.--Greek Independence

Day.--At Athens.--Classical ruins.--Peculiar Greek customs.--Funeral

ceremony.

Athens, Greece, April 12th, 1873.

_Editor Deseret News_:

In my last I closed with our arrival at Beyrout. The locality of

Beyrout is very beautiful: it stands on a promontory of a triangular

form, the apex projecting into the Mediterranean, and its base

extending along the foot of the Lebanon mountains. Groves of pine

and mulberry are seen on the rising hills, and covering the mountain

acclivities; and here and there groups of palm and cypresses. Our

hotel, situated close upon the shore, commands a splendid view of

the Bay of St. George, on which are floating ships and steamers,

the Mediterranean, the finest portion of the city, and some of the

picturesque scenery of Lebanon. It is a mental luxury to look from my

window, or out from the open balcony, and contemplate these lovely

scenes, wrought by the hand of God, and by His inspirations in man.

The city contains over fifty thousand inhabitants--one-third of these

are Mussulmen, the rest, Christians, Jews and strangers. Its numerous

shops, capacious warehouses, its busy quay and numbers of bazars,

ships and steamers, exhibit life and commercial enterprise, forming a

striking contrast with the old, threadbare, worn-out and moth-eaten

systems of doing business, still practised in the towns and cities of

Palestine. With regard to foreign trade and commerce, Beyrout stands

foremost in Syria; the largest imports are for Damascus, it forming

the seaport for that city. The chief article of export is raw silk,

the trade in which is fast increasing, and every year becoming more

important. In the vicinity of the city, and through the region of

Lebanon, the country is being filled with mulberry orchards, and little

doubt is entertained of its proving a permanent source of business and

profit.

The new portion of the city is handsomely built, the private dwellings

and public edifices are chiefly constructed of stone, substantially

built, with some artistic display. Some of the streets are broad and

well paved, and nearly everywhere signs of improvement and enterprise

are visible, insomuch that one could almost fancy himself in a European

city.

American and English missionaries have established a Protestant college

and several schools in Beyrout and in Lebanon. These institutions are

accessible to students of every sect and party who are willing to

conform to the regulations, which are skilfully arranged with a view

to proselyting. All boarders are required to be present at morning and

evening prayers, and attend Protestant worship, and college classes

upon the Scriptures during the week. The Bible is also used as a text

book for common instructions, etc. These educational departments are

sustained by contributions from Europe and America. Some seventy

students attend the Protestant college. The British Syrian schools at

Beyrout number over six hundred scholars, and including the branch

schools in Lebanon, rising one thousand.

March 25th, we embarked on an Austrian Lloyd steamer for

Constantinople. We passed the Island of Cyprus; had a view, from

the deck, of Mount Olympus, the summit of which was once crowned

with the celebrated Temple of Venus; passed the island of Rhodes,

where we saw the fortifications of the "Knights of St. John," their

bastions, battlements, overhanging buttresses and lofty towers. The

Island of Patmos was pointed out in the distance, where the Revelator

John received his wonderful visions. We called at Smyrna, the city

honored with many euphonious names--"The Ornament of Asia," "The

Crown of Ionia," "Sweet smelling Smyrna," etc.; passed the Island of

Mytilene, Tenedos; went through the Dardanelles, and were shown the

place where Leander, and afterward Lord Byron, performed feats of

swimming; then steamed over the Sea of Marmora, and at length arrived

at Constantinople, the celebrated capital of the Ottoman empire.

The port was crowded with ships, steamers, barges, ferries and small

boats, so numerous that they appeared as if swarming on the waters,

numbering many thousands. This magnificent bay accommodates twelve

hundred sail, and is sufficiently deep to float ships of war of the

largest magnitude.

For advantages of trade and commerce, and for beauty of situation,

Constantinople undoubtedly excels all other cities in the world. It

stands upon two continents, Europe and Asia, and upon two seas, the

Black Sea and the Sea of Marmora. Its population is variously estimated

at from five hundred thousand to eight hundred thousand; of these about

three hundred thousand are Greeks and Armenians, sixty thousand Jews,

and thirty thousand Europeans. It contains forty colleges, one thousand

mosques, many Jewish synagogues, and numerous Catholic churches.

We visited the American Minister, and spent a few hours in his company

very pleasantly. We have made it an invariable rule to call on our

American Ministers and Consuls, and, without an exception, have

been courteously and kindly received, and in several instances our

company has been solicited. Our cards and letters of introduction from

President Young, on every occasion, have been noticed and honored.

While in Constantinople we visited the principal mosques, the tombs of

the sultans, the offices of the Sublime Porte, the Treasury, Armory,

Mint, Repository of Antiquities, the bazars and the Palace of the

Osmanli Sultans, the Royal Seraglio. The Mosque of St. Sophia, which we

inspected, in several respects is the most remarkable edifice in the

Turkish empire. It is three hundred and fifty feet in length, by two

hundred and thirty-five in breadth. It was built for a Catholic temple

in the sixth century, by the Emperor Justinian, and was sixteen years

in course of construction. At that time it was celebrated as the most

remarkable and magnificent temple in the whole empire. In the fifteenth

century it was converted into a mosque, through the conquering sword

of Mohammed the Second, at the capture of Constantinople. It has two

flags suspended on either side of the pulpit, indicating the victory

of Islam over Judaism and Christianity, and the Koran over the Old

and New Testaments. The roof is constructed in such a manner that it

exhibits nine cupolas, the great dome forming the highest summit,

and so arranged that it appears as if suspended in the air; the

whole seen together presents an appearance of singular grandeur and

magnificence. The walls and numerous arches are built of brick; the

interior of the building is adorned with the richest and most costly

materials--granite, marble and porphyry of every description; black

marble with white veins, white marble with rose-colored stripes, green

and blue marble, and Bosphorus marble with black veins. We counted

eight large porphyry columns, which were taken from the "Temple of the

Sun," at Baalbec, and six or eight of green columns of porphyry, which

our guide informed us were from the Temple of Diana at Ephesus. The

floor is formed of variegated marble with waving lines, imitating the

movings of the ocean. The tiles which cover the arches of the cupolas

were made at Rhodes, of chalk-white clay of peculiar lightness, being

only one-twelfth of the usual weight; and had inscribed upon them, "God

has founded it, and it will not be overthrown: God will support it in

the blush of the dawn." It has sixteen gates of bronze, adorned with

crosses; the spaces between them are decorated with beautiful marble,

and above them are mosaic pictures. The central dome is one hundred

and seven feet in diameter, with a rise of forty-six feet, and with

an elevation of one hundred and eighty feet above the ground, with

semi-domes on two sides, of equal diameter. The grand dome is supported

by arches resting on four immense piers, supported by abutments.

Its numerous arches, pillars and cupolas are all inlaid with marble

mosaics of the most beautiful designs. In the cupola are inscribed the

following words from the Koran: "God is the light of the heavens and

the earth." On ceremonial occasions, during the night, these expressive

words are illuminated by thousands of lamps, suspended in circles,

one above another, which, aided by attachments of ostrich eggs, and

quantities of tinsel, and numerous artificial flowers, are said to

produce a wonderful effect.

One hundred architects, during the construction of this mosque,

superintended ten thousand masons, five thousand working on one side,

the other half at the same time engaged on the opposite side of the

building. It is said of the Emperor, that during the progress of

the work he paid occasional visits, to inspire the workmen, dressed

in coarse linen, a cloth around his head, and a rough stick in his

hand. When the walls had reached about six feet above the ground, an

expenditure of about twenty-two tons of gold had been incurred; and a

traditionary account is given, that when this extraordinary structure

had been completed as far as the cupolas, the funds were exhausted, and

the people groaning and murmuring under the heavy burden of imposed

taxes; whereupon an angel appeared, and, leading the mules of the

treasury to a subterranean vault, loaded them with four tons of gold!

We went aboard an Austrian Lloyd steamer, April 5th, and steered for

Athens, the capital of Greece. In going down the Archipelago, the

usual dulness and monotony of ocean life was partially relieved by

the changing scenery and charming views, constantly exhibited on the

numerous islands we were passing. Syra especially attracted attention;

the picturesque appearance of its capital city of thirty thousand

people drew expressions of surprise and admiration. Stopping a few

hours at anchorage gave opportunity of inspecting this locality. The

city is built on a gigantic, conical hill, rising steeply from the

shore in a semi-circle, over a mile in width, extending to an immense

height; its narrow and pointed summit crowned with a large cathedral;

the whole hill, with its indentures and depressions, covered from base

to summit with elegant buildings painted white, with green window

shutters, blue cornices and balustrades.

It chanced to be a holiday with the Greeks--they were celebrating their

independence. Flags were floating from the tops of buildings and tall

masts of the ships in the harbor. At night, before our departure, there

was a grand illumination, in which the entire city and ships at anchor

participated. The appearance altogether was very striking.

We arrived at Piraeus, the seaport of Athens, 7th ult., having

experienced a favorable passage. We took carriage and drove to Athens,

five miles distant, over a beautiful road, skirted with poplar and

pepper trees.

Munich, Bavaria, April 22d, 1873.

The whole of the modern city of Athens has been built within the last

forty-five years. It is situated about five miles from the sea, on

the Plain of Attica. Many of the buildings possess some architectural

beauty, which, combined with their yellow-washed stucco, present an

agreeable and lively appearance. Olive groves, the scene of Plato's

meditations, stretching along the plain, the trees and shrubbery in

the Queen's garden, an orange grove fronting the King's Palace, pepper

trees skirting the boulevards, a few cypresses and Italian poplars,

form the principal foliage which is seen in and around Athens. The

Queen's garden attached to the Palace is a beautiful enclosure of

several acres, extending along the boulevards and partially encircling

the palace, and adorned with rich shrubbery, flowerbeds, luxurious

foliage, grass-plats, artificial waters and winding gravel walks.

Fronting the palace is a small, enclosed area, decorated with orange

trees; in the centre is a fine fountain surrounded with seats for

the convenience of promenaders. The trees were constantly dropping

their golden fruit here and there, on the gravelly walks, but left

untouched by the multitude of pedestrians. The King's Palace is the

most conspicuous building in Athens. It is located on a gently rising

eminence at the foot of Mount Lycabettis, and facing what is termed

the "Square of the Constitution." On this square, September, 1843,

the people and troops assembled, and continued ten hours without

any act of violence, waiting for King Otho to grant the request of

their leaders in signing the constitutional charter, to which, at

last, he reluctantly consented. The front of the palace has a portico

constructed of marble--the walls of the building are composed of broken

limestone faced with cement.

The Acropolis is a vast rock, rising to the height of three hundred and

fifty feet above the plain, with a flat summit, about one thousand feet

long by five hundred broad. The Areopagus, or Hill of Mars, is a lower

eminence, forming a kind of offshoot to the Acropolis. The remains

of the celebrated Temple of Jupiter Olympus occupy a broad square of

ground a little eastward of the Acropolis. Fifteen Corinthian columns

of immense size are now standing, out of one hundred and twenty-four,

which formerly covered a space of three hundred and fifty-four feet, by

a breadth of one hundred and seventy-one feet. These marble columns are

fifty-five feet in height and six feet four inches in diameter. One of

the marble beams, supported by these gigantic columns, is said to weigh

twenty-three tons. We noticed one of the pillars which had been thrown

down in a high wind--it is formed of eighteen sections. It is estimated

that three thousand dollars would be required to set up these sections

and restore the pillar to an upright position, which will afford a

faint idea of the cost of erecting the entire building.

We ascended the Acropolis to inspect its stupendous and melancholy

ruins. When it stood in the fulness of its splendor, the whole summit

was occupied with temples, sanctuaries, statuary and monuments; only

sufficient now remain to show their former grandeur and magnificence.

There were the marble temples of Minerva, Propylaca, Wingless Victory,

the Erectheum and the Parthenon; also gigantic statues of Grecian

deities, from forty to sixty feet in height, on lofty pedestals

decorated with ivory and gold, glistening in the sunlight. Some of

these colossal statues could be seen from the decks of vessels,

standing a long distance out at sea. A few massive columns of temples

are seen sustaining huge marble beams, over twenty feet in length. In

the Propylacan Temple, quantities of black marble were used in its

construction, and, the same as other heathen sanctuaries, was adorned

with costly paintings and historical decorations. The entire expense of

this building has been estimated at about two and a half millions of

dollars. The Parthenon is built entirely of marble, and is two hundred

and twenty-eight feet long by one hundred and one broad. Its ceiling

is supported the same as that of the Propylacan, by huge marble beams,

resting on massive columns. One of the doorways is thirty-three feet

in height and sixteen feet wide; the head of the doorway is formed

of marble lintels, nearly twenty-seven feet in length. The Erectheum

has a number of standing columns, supporting massive marble beams and

lintels over doorways; most of this temple, however, lies in a heap of

superb ruins. The frieze of this building was composed of black marble,

adorned with figures in low relief, in white marble. The surface of

the Acropolis is mostly spread with ruins, broken pillars, pieces of

entablatures and sculptured fragments.

The Greeks have some very peculiar customs. When, after a lengthy

absence, friends meet, or when parting for a considerable time, it is

usual to kiss one another on the cheek. I have noticed in Athens, the

same as in Italy, two gentlemen meeting on the public street, with hats

off, demonstrating their affection by hugging and kissing each other in

the most violent manner. Many of the Greeks have a habit of carrying

in the hand strings of glass or wooden beads, which they manipulate or

work with their fingers, while walking the streets or in conversation,

the same as the gentleman his watchguard, or twirls his cane, or the

lady flirts her fan, having no religious reference as the Catholic in

counting his beads.

It is customary to make the sign of the cross in the following manner:

Uniting the tips of the thumb and first two fingers of the right hand,

and touching alternately the forehead, navel, right breast and left

breast, three times in rapid succession, whenever passing a church,

seeing the cross, or hearing the name of the Savior spoken. They have

a singular form for burying the dead. I witnessed the ceremony of

burying two persons, who apparently had occupied respectable positions

in society. The processions were preceded by boys in white robes,

carrying a crucifix and other ecclesiastic insignia of considerable

splendor, followed by priests, chanting in a low, monotonous,

melancholy tone, while all hats were off and every hand was making the

sign of the cross, as the solemn train was passing along the crowded

thoroughfare; the corpse, with ghastly features exposed to full view

in an open coffin, covered with white cloth, variously decorated; the

lid of the coffin, painted with a large cross, was carried along in

the procession, in an upright position. The corpse was dressed in the

clothing customarily worn while living; the head partially elevated,

and the hands folded in front of a picture of the Virgin, placed on his

breast.

Returning from the Museum, we met the King of Greece, who was walking

leisurely along the sidewalk, among the citizens, dressed in plain,

ordinary costume. His appearance is rather prepossessing; his figure

is slight--of medium size, light complexion, and eyes expressive of

both kindness and determination. He has the reputation of honesty and

frankness--without affectation, and his domestic life above reproach,

and makes the welfare and improvement of his people a direct aim and

constant study. He is about twenty-eight years of age--married the

daughter of the Grand Duke Constantine of Russia, and has a family.

The Greek Church and Greek nation may be considered synonymous words,

as one cannot exist without the other, being interwoven like cotton and

woolen threads in a garment. It is a strong prevailing feeling in the

people, that, as the church cannot exist without the people, so the

people cannot exist as a nation without the church. The banners of the

revolution were constantly blessed by the bishops, and among the first

victims of that revolution was the Greek Patriarch of Constantinople.

In fact the first article of the constitution makes the Greek Church

the corner stone of the political fabric. It is as follows: "The

dominant religion of Greece is that of the Orthodox Oriental Church

of Christ. All other recognized religions are tolerated, and the free

exercise of worship is protected by law. Proselytism and all other

interferences, prejudicial to the dominant religion, are forbidden."

Therefore any attempt made by Protestants, in the way of proselyting,

is regarded with suspicion.

Mr. Francis, the American minister, invited our party to spend an

evening at his residence. We had a pleasant time with the minister,

his lady and son, also Mr. Goodenough, the Consul General of

Constantinople, who was spending a few days in Athens. In conversation

with these people, we gathered interesting items in reference to

modern Greece, the king and government. Mr. Francis' fine abilities

and conversational talent drew around him many visitors especially

Americans. Mrs. Francis is a lady of intelligence, of lively

disposition and polite manners.

We left Athens on the evening of the twelfth, on an Austrian Lloyd

steamer, for Trieste, Austria, where we arrived on the seventeenth,

after a pleasant passage. This is a charming town, built in the form

of a crescent, on rounded and conical hills and mountain acclivities.

It is surrounded with beautiful scenery. The city has a population of

about one hundred thousand. We were shown many objects of attraction

and curiosity.

The nineteenth, we took train for Munich, the capital of Bavaria,

through the Brenner Pass, by the way of Verona, a town in Italy. Our

route led through an interesting country, under an excellent state

of tillage--the landscape covered with verdure and rich in luxurious

foliage, the apple, plum, apricot, cherry and chestnut adorned with

blossoms, and the vine clothed with leaves; patches of clover, grain in

full growth, green pastures and meadows, and off in the distance a long

high range of mountains, with summits mantled in snow. We arrived at

Verona in the evening and remained over Sunday.

The country from Verona to Munich is in the highest state of

cultivation, abounding in fields of grain, vegetable gardens, fruit

orchards and vineyards; nearly the whole region is dotted with walnut,

apple, cherry, apricot, plum and mulberry, the grapevine stretching

from one tree to another, clinging to the branches, while below

flourish luxuriant gardens or waving grain. We passed over a narrow,

winding vale, extending over seventy miles, skirted by lofty mountains

and adorned with towns and villages, and churches here and there,

on high plateaus above the plain; streamlets are seen now and then

dashing and foaming over rocky steps, producing cascades of great

beauty and grandeur. We noticed images of the Savior, nearly life-size,

representing His crucifixion, and secured to posts placed here and

there along the public road. Women were laboring in the fields, driving

plow, spading ground, scattering manure, and some in tops of trees

trimming the branches.

Monday evening, twenty-first, we arrived in Munich.

Lorenzo Snow.

LETTER XIII.

Munich.--Visit to a Royal Palace.--Statue of Bavaria.--Imperial

Wedding.--Vienna.--The Arsenal.--Summer Palace.--The Great

Exhibition.--Berlin.--Royal Palace.--Banquet Hall.--Monuments.--U.

S. Minister.--Parliament.--Soldiers.--Moral condition of

Berlin.--Hamburg.--In London.

Vienna, Austria, May 6th, 1873.

_Editor Deseret News_:

We spent a few days very pleasantly, and I hope profitably, in Munich,

the capital of Bavaria. Our hotel accommodations, politeness of host,

and the attention of servants, have been nowhere excelled. The general

appearance of the people in respect to style of dress, their moral

character and education, will bear comparison with that of the first

cities in other European countries. The streets, public gardens, parks

and squares possess many attractions, but unfortunately the weather was

unpropitious for the full appreciation of sight-seeing.

Munich is situated in a barren plain, upon both sides of the river

Iser. It contains about one hundred and seventy-five thousand

inhabitants, and is considered the fourth city in Germany in point of

population. Many of its parks, squares and public gardens are adorned

with fountains, lawns, shrubbery, cascades, grottoes, equestrian

figures and colossal statues. In one of these squares is a large

obelisk, erected in honor of the Bavarians who were slain in the

Russian campaign of 1812, bearing the inscription: "To the thirty

thousand Bavarians who perished in the Russian war; erected by Louis

First, King of Bavaria, completed Oct. 18, 1833. They died for the

deliverance of the country." The park, called the English Garden,

nearly five miles long by a half mile in width, is ornamented at

vast labor and expense. We visited the Royal Palace, and spent some

two hours in walking through the imperial apartments, inspecting

the numerous objects of interest and curiosity--the Audience Hall,

embellished with twelve portraits of Roman Emperors; the Green Gallery,

with a great number of Dutch and Italian paintings; The Bedchamber,

containing curtains of gold brocade, valued at the enormous sum of four

hundred thousand dollars; and the Mirror Room, adorned with precious

vases of gold and silver, together with chandeliers of immense value.

Also the Hall of Marriages, appropriately decorated with fresco work;

the Hall of the Emperors, adorned with paintings by the most celebrated

masters; the Hall of Charlemagne, with numerous pictures of gigantic

size, commemorative of the most remarkable events in his life. The

Throne Hall is one hundred and sixty feet long, and seventy-three

wide, ornamented on either side by twelve Corinthian columns of white

marble, supporting galleries. Between these columns are twelve statues

of princes in gilded bronze, each of which weighs nearly one and a half

tons; the simple cost of gilding was about twelve hundred dollars each.

The Royal Library is a very beautiful building, comprising

seventy-seven rooms, in which are contained more than eight hundred

thousand volumes. The Royal Bronze Foundry is much celebrated;

monuments have been cast in this foundry for nearly all parts of the

world.

In the southwest of the city, on an eminence, in a large meadow, stands

the colossal statue of Bavaria. It is placed upon a basement, which is

ascended by a flight of forty-eight steps; the height of the statue

itself is thirty-two and a half feet, and pedestal twenty-eight and a

half. This female statue represents the Protectress of Bavaria, with

a lion at her side. In her right hand she holds a sword, and in her

left a chaplet. This immense statue was cast at the Royal Foundry. The

interior of the figure contains a staircase of sixty-six steps, which

ascend through the pedestal to the height of the knees, and from thence

by a spiral stair to the head, within which eight persons can be seated.

One day, hearing that the king, with his suite and royal equipage,

was out on an imperial wedding, I set forward, on foot, in company

with my sister, to witness the immense attraction, which was drawing

all Munich into the streets by tens of thousands. Having submitted to

half an hour's journeying, pressing and smashing, by the patriotic

and enthusiastic citizens of Munich, finally we secured the honor of

gazing a moment on the passing pomp and glory of His Royal Majesty the

King of Bavaria, and occupying a point toward which he _smiled_ and

_civilly bowed_. After narrowly escaping being trodden down by the

crowd, I returned to my hotel, wondering how much mathematical skill or

philosophical wisdom would be required to determine the exact value of

what was gained by this exposure.

We left Munich on the morning of the twenty-ninth, and arrived in

Vienna by train the following evening. Vienna, the capital of Austria,

is situated at the foot of the Vienna Mountain, in a plain, near the

right bank of the Danube. It contains a population of about eight

hundred thousand.

A boulevard encircles the city, planted with trees, and bordered with

very elegant buildings and beautiful gardens. The city exhibits some

very remarkable edifices--the Castle, Cathedral of St. Stephen's,

Imperial Palace and many palatial residences of ministers and

ambassadors. The suburbs of the city are very populous, containing many

splendid edifices, fine promenades, and ornamental gardens. Many of the

squares are decorated with various statues and monuments, displaying

great skill in design and execution; among these is an equestrian

statue of the Emperor Joseph III, who is represented on horseback,

stretching out his hand, and blessing the people. Also an equestrian

statue of the Archduke Charles, erected in 1860--he is represented at

the battle of Aspern, in the attitude of raising the flag, to lead

the grenadiers to the attack. Also the column of the Trinity, erected

in 1679, on the cessation of the plague. This column is composed of

white Salsburg marble, and is over seventy feet high; on the pedestal

is a rock, upholding Religion, a cherub, overcoming the Master of

the Plague, also some has reliefs, representing incidents of sacred

history. The Emperor appears in the attitude of kneeling on the summit

of the column, and angels rising toward heaven. Another very fine

monument, built by Charles VI, consists of a canopy, sustained by

Corinthian columns, beneath which is a group, representing the marriage

of the Virgin. We noticed, in various parts of the city, many splendid

fountains, fine bridges, broad, well paved streets, bordered with

linden and chestnut, and skirted with magnificent buildings; and in the

city and suburbs, many ornamented squares, public gardens and extensive

parks.

Vienna has numerous cathedrals, some of which are fine specimens of

Gothic architecture. The Church of the Savior is an elegant structure,

decorated in Gothic style--built in commemoration of an attempt to

destroy the life of Francis Joseph, in the year 1853. The first stone

was laid by the Emperor, which was obtained from the Mount of Olives,

in Palestine, in 1856.

We visited the Imperial Arsenal, considered one of the grandest

buildings in Vienna; it is very extensive and surrounded by ornamental

grounds. It comprises numerous workshops, foundries, machine shops,

and a Museum of Arms, containing specimens of weapons of all periods;

artillery of brass and iron, and vast quantities of projectiles. It has

nine steam engines, and two thousand men are kept employed within the

buildings. It casts eighty cannons per day, and usually makes a run two

days in a week.

The Imperial Summer Palace, a short distance from the city, is

charmingly located beside a large public park, encircled by ornamental

grounds, and has an orangery of seven hundred and forty trees, and a

grand parterre, decorated with thirty-two statues, and a large basin,

with two splendid fountains. The palace contains fifteen hundred

chambers.

Of late years, great alterations and improvements have been made in

Vienna, by tearing down old fortifications, erecting public buildings,

straightening and widening streets and thoroughfares, and multiplying,

enlarging and ornamenting public grounds.

We have spent some days in the buildings of the great exhibition.

Everything in relation to it is upon the most magnificent scale. It is

supposed that it will exceed, in splendor, variety, extent, perfection

of articles, correctness of arrangement, magnificence and universality,

any previous exhibition.

In Austria, as in all other countries which we have visited, soldiers,

in military costume, are seen almost everywhere, in great numbers.

Perhaps you are weary of these descriptions of what we are seeing in

the world--gorgeous churches, museums, picture galleries, mosques,

zoological gardens, relics, ruins, antiquities, crumbling temples,

statuary, obelisks, sumptuous palaces, odd customs, singular manners

of people, religious fanaticisms, trickery and impostures, etc., but

in sight-seeing we are confined within the limits of what the pride

and vanity of the world have labored to exhibit, rather than what, in

many instances, we should have preferred seeing. It would have been

more gratifying to record our inspection of systems, on magnificent

and universal scales, designed to remove poverty and distress,

which, to a greater or less extent, everywhere prevail; and to give

all an opportunity, irrespective of creeds, geographical lines or

nationalities, of providing for their own wants and comforts, and of

elevating themselves to the highest spiritual, physical, moral and

intellectual plane.

Berlin, Prussia, May 12th, 1873.

On the ninth, we started from Vienna by train, and arrived here the

following afternoon.

The country between Vienna and this, the capital of the German empire,

some five hundred or more miles, is delightful. Its immense undulating

plains, here and there forming into low hills and rising mounds, all

under a high state of cultivation, present a lovely and picturesque

scene. The whole country appeared to be filled with industrious and

enterprising inhabitants. Elegant mansions peeping out amid the green

foliage of romantic groves, villas, with their respective chapels

surmounted with broad domes, or glittering steeples, and cities

occasionally appearing in the distance, crowning the rising hills,

altogether form a panoramic view that is almost captivating.

On our arrival here we engaged quarters in the most fashionable and

aristocratic hotel in the city, in a very pleasant and stirring

locality.

Berlin is situated on a sandy plain on the river Spree, and is

considered, in several respects, one of the finest and most interesting

cities of Northern Europe--the metropolis of knowledge for Northern

Germany, and the cultivated nursery of German arts and sciences. It

contains about eight hundred and thirty thousand inhabitants.

Many of the streets are broad and straight--the buildings frequently

four and five stories high. The finest street passes our hotel--it is

called "Unter den Linden," and is decorated with four rows of lime

trees. In the centre of this street is a broad avenue for pedestrians,

and, on each side, arrangements for footmen and carriages. This

magnificent thoroughfare extends from the Royal Palace to "Brandenburg

Gate." This gate is constructed in the style of the Propylacan at

Athens. It is sixty feet in height and one hundred and ninety in width,

embracing five passages for carriages and footmen. It is surrounded by

a figure emblematical of Victory seated in a chariot, drawn by four

horses. The height of the group is nearly twenty feet. The expense of

erecting this gate was in the neighborhood of a half million of dollars.

The Royal Palace is an extensive building--six hundred and forty feet

in length by three hundred and seventy-six wide, containing six hundred

apartments. It contains a chapel, which is remarkable as being the

place where the baptismal ceremony of Frederic the Great was performed.

The Picture Gallery, which is now used for a banqueting hall, is over

two hundred in length and one hundred and twenty-five feet wide. The

largest room in this palace is one hundred and five feet in length by

fifty-one in width--decorated with a great variety of costly statues

and portraits of celebrated individuals. These palaces contain a new

chapel, built in 1849, with a cupola measuring eighty-six feet in

diameter. The altar is surmounted by a cross of silver seven feet in

height, studded with gems, the cost of which is estimated at four

hundred thousand dollars. There are several other palaces in the

city, and some at Potsdam, a few miles distant, which is called the

"Versailles of Prussia."

We have seen several splendid monuments, some of which we think as fine

as any we have seen in Europe; also many equestrian statues of skilful

and elegant workmanship.

We called on Mr. G. Bancroft, the American Minister--were kindly and

warmly received, and enjoyed a very pleasant and sociable interview,

at the close of which he cordially proffered his assistance to the

extent of his influence, in rendering our stay in Berlin profitable and

interesting. He subsequently visited us at our hotel.

Here, we were fortunate in meeting Dr. Schleiden, member of the German

Parliament, whose acquaintance we had formed in Salt Lake City and

which we renewed in New York, as mentioned in a former communication.

This excellent gentleman was delighted to see and introduce us to his

intimate friend, Mr. Kapp, also a member of Parliament. These gentlemen

have called upon us on several occasions, and have accorded us free

access to the House of Parliament, now in session; and have taken

much pains in showing us objects of interest, and through interesting

localities.

We were surprised to see the multitude of soldiers constantly parading

the main thoroughfares and streets in this city. Every day they are

marching past our hotel, in battalions, regiments, brigades and

divisions, in the most imposing style, with magnificent flags and

banners displayed--all led by instrumental bands of musicians in

rich shining costumes--the whole performing their evolutions in the

strictest order, skill and precision, presenting the finest and most

splendid appearance of troops in any country we have visited.

Those fashionable institutions, "houses of ill-fame," are said to

flourish and command the patronage of nearly all classes here, as in

Paris, the gay metropolis of France; and some of them are built at an

immense cost, and fitted up in fabulous splendor and sumptuousness. The

people of Berlin, viewed superficially, are remarkably intelligent, and

appear interesting, lovely, beautiful and happy, as though all were

conscientious, moral, upright and pure; but, in this city, as well as

in most others we have seen, corruption, rottenness, demoralization and

misery are underneath.

Considerable sensation was created among the aristocrats in our

hotel, through the calls of distinguished gentlemen on our party. Our

celebrity reached the public press, where we were creditably noticed,

and perhaps somewhat flattered.

London, May 19th.

We arrived here yesterday. Before we left Berlin, Elder Erastus Snow

and son bid us adieu, _en route_ for Scandinavia, and Elder Schettler

in another direction, to attend to some necessary business, while

President Smith, my sister and I left for London, _via_ Hamburg and the

German Ocean.

The country from Berlin to Hamburg is not prepossessing in its

appearance. It exhibits no variety nor beauty of scenery--the face of

the country is generally low and flat--similar to that of Holland,

though not abounding in canals and windmills.

Hamburg contains a population of two hundred and twenty-five thousand,

and is the principal place of commerce, and one of the most beautiful

cities in Germany. It is situated on the river Elbe, about eighty miles

from its mouth. The port is very extensive, and crowded with shipping

of various tonnage.

The Bourse, the great rendezvous of merchants and capitalists of every

rank, presents a lively, stirring business aspect, between the hours of

1 and 2 o'clock p. m., when three or four thousand business people may

generally be seen thronging the apartments.

This city affords a beautiful, fashionable commonage along the quay,

which surrounds the basin formed by the River Alsten.

The Church of St. James is much noted; it is surmounted by a steeple

three hundred and fifty feet in height. The great Church of St.

Nicholas is also considerably celebrated; it is ornamented with a

magnificent steeple four hundred and fifty-six feet high, which

affords a wonderful panoramic view from its summit. The Zoological and

Botanical Gardens are represented to be among the finest in Germany.

We left Berlin on the fifteenth, and arrived in Hamburg the following

evening, with the intention of remaining one day only. At the railroad

station, the proprietor of a commodious hotel, in the most respectful

manner, solicited our patronage, conducted us into his best apartments,

and bestowed upon us more than ordinary attentions. The next day

he officiated gratuitously as our guide through the city, taking

particular pains and manifesting deep interest in pointing out and

explaining every object of interest and curiosity. At first, we were

a little suspicious that these extraordinary attentions were designed

to establish heavy claims on the purse, but the mystery was at length

revealed; this gentleman had read the German papers, and, at once,

recognized us as the "Distinguished Mormon Delegation" from Salt Lake.

Our notoriety here brought us acquaintances.

A gentleman who, for many years, had been successfully engaged, on

a large scale, in emigration, obtained an introduction, and very

earnestly solicited our patronage, believing that, very soon, we should

have a heavy emigration business in that country.

We left Hamburg on the sixteenth, on the steamer Iris, making our way

over the German Sea, and arrived at Blackwall, London, on the evening

of the eighteenth, after a pleasant and prosperous voyage.

Lorenzo Snow.

LETTER XIV.

At St. Louis.--Fine scenery.--Visit relatives.--Poem.--Obtain

genealogies.--Acknowledgment.

As a connecting link between my brother's letter written in London,

and his reception on his arrival at home, we copy the following from

"Correspondence of Palestine Tourists:"

St. Louis, June 20th, 1873.

_Editor Woman's Exponent_:

Dear Lulu.--When writing you last, which was on the ocean, I did not

anticipate either time or opportunity for communication with you again

while on my way home, but in consequence of the extreme piety of this

infidel age, we are in this great, live city, detained over Sunday. We

arrived here yesterday morning from Kansas, where we found our youngest

brother, whom we had not seen for more than twenty years; he was then

a boy, now the father of a large and promising family, and located on

a farm one half mile square, in a beautiful rolling prairie country,

commanding a view, both grand and magnificent, extending as far as

the eye can reach. I think I never saw a finer or more picturesque

landscape scenery, while the soil is rich and very productive, situated

five miles from Osage Mission, the railroad station for that section.

But more about St. Louis. We, _i. e_., my brother Lorenzo and I,

intended leaving last evening, but are detained till 10 to-night, the

hour admitted as the close of the Sabbath, which, despite the sacred

rest allotted the railroad trains, is decidedly a day of bustle,

recreation and hilarity. While writing, my ears are saluted with

almost every sound imaginable: bands of instrumental music playing in

various directions; the rumble of street cars, which are loaded to

their utmost capacity, constantly on the track, conveying gay pleasure

seekers to different points; picnics by land and picnics by water

being a prominent order of the day; groups of people are promenading

the sidewalks, while processions are marching on the streets; but the

railroad trains must not profane the Sabbath.

When we left New York, my brother and I proceeded directly to the

place, in the State of Ohio, where he was born, and where both were

brought up--the place of our childhood and youth--also neighboring

towns and counties. I had been absent thirty-seven years; my brother

had returned once within that time. Very many of our relatives and

friends have "gone the way of all the earth" since we left, and

everything of remembrance has yielded to the strokes of the battle axe

of changeful Time.

Our former loved associates

Have mostly passed away;

While those we knew as children

Are crowned with locks of gray.

We saw Time's varied traces

Were deep on every hand--

Indeed, upon the people,

More marked than on the land.

The hands that once with firmness

Could grasp the axe and blade,

Now move with trembling motion,

By strength of nerve decayed.

The change in form and feature

And furrows on the cheek

Of Time's increasing volume,

In plain, round numbers speak.

And thus, as in a mirror's

Reflection, we were told,

With stereotyped impressions,

The fact of growing old.

Those of our relatives and acquaintances who remain received us with

affectionate cordiality; indeed it was one continued ovation, from

first to last, through the counties of Portage, Geauga, Cuyahoga and

Loraine, where we went; even children born since we left that country

came distances to see and converse with us, the former friends of

their deceased parents. Having been so long abroad, we felt anxious to

return home; at the same time, being desirous of seeing as many of our

friends and relatives as possible, we visited night and day, going from

place to place in rapid succession. I am inclined to think that so much

visiting was never before done in so little time.

We succeeded in gathering many genealogies both of the dead and the

living; and we think, in many instances, have renewed friendships,

revived and created associations that will extend into eternity. We

feel that God is with us, and humbly trust that His blessing will

attend our efforts.

Eliza R. Snow.

LETTER XV.

Home again.--Reception by friends.

Brigham City, July 8th, 1873.

_Editor Deseret News_:

About 7 p. m. yesterday, President L. Snow, on his return from the

"Holy Land," was met at Brigham Junction, four miles from here, by

Judge Wright, Bishop Nichols, the mayor and the city council, together

with a large company of ladies and gentlemen, with the Brigham

City Brass Band; also a representation of the Sunday School, the

superintendent and associate teachers bearing a magnificent banner with

appropriate mottoes. On arriving at the station, the Central Pacific

train shortly appeared. On President Snow alighting from the cars,

welcome strains of music were poured forth from the brass band. As he

approached, the gentlemen took off their hats and warmly greeted him.

The passengers on the Central Pacific train seemed to be inspired with

the spirit of the occasion, as they waved hats and handkerchiefs in

concert with those of the reception party.

After President Snow had shaken hands cordially with each one of

the company, Judge Wright, in behalf of the citizens, delivered an

appropriate address, welcoming him home, etc., to which he briefly

responded, returning thanks for this unexpected honor, and alluded

to his tour through many countries, and journey of some twenty-five

thousand miles without a single accident; had seen much, and often

highly gratified with various scenes and objects of curiosity, but

nothing had impressed his feelings so pleasantly as this meeting with

his Brigham City friends.

The vehicles were presently in motion, under the soul-stirring music,

which loudly echoed along the Wasatch mountains; the procession

proceeded for three quarters of an hour in the bright moonlight

evening, when it reached President Snow's residence. He was here met

by a large concourse of citizens of all ages, anxious to manifest,

personally, their earnest feelings of welcome. The ceremonies of

reception were here closed by an appropriate tune from the brass band,

when all dispersed to their homes.

A. Christensen.