GENEALOGIES.
Births and deaths of our parents.--Their children.--Genealogies
of Lorenzo's wives, children, grandchildren, sons-in-law and
daughters-in-law.--Mary Adaline's children by her first husband.
Births And Deaths Of Our Parents.
Oliver Snow, born 18 Sept., 1775, in Becket, Berkshire Co.,
Massachusetts. died 17 Oct., 1845, in Walnut Grove, Knox Co., Illinois.
Rosetta Leonora Pettibone Snow, b. 22 Oct., 1778, in Simsbury, Hartford
Co., Connecticut.
d. 12 Oct., 1846, in Walnut Grove, Knox Co., Illinois.
Their Children.
Leonora Abigail, b. 23 Aug., 1801, in Becket, Berkshire Co., Mass. d.
11 Feb., 1872, in Brigham City, Box Elder Co., Utah.
Eliza Roxcy, b. 21 Jan., 1804, in Becket, Berkshire Co., Mass.
Percy Amanda, b. 20 April, 1808, in Mantua, Portage Co., Ohio. d. 27
August, 1848, in Henry Co., Illinois.
Melissa, b. 24 July, 1810, in Mantua, Portage Co., Ohio. d. 16 Dec.,
1835, in Mantua, Portage Co., Ohio.
Lorenzo, b. 3 April, 1814, in Mantua, Portage Co., Ohio.
Lucius Augustus, b. 31 Aug., 1819, in Mantua, Portage Co., Ohio.
Samuel Pearce, b. 22 Aug., 1821, in Mantua, Portage Co., Ohio.
Genealogical Record Of Lorenzo Snow's Family.
LORENZO SNOW
married CHARLOTTE, daughter of Charles Merrill and Charlotte Smith
Squires. b. 19 Nov., 1825, in Bainbridge, Geauga Co., Ohio. d. 25
Sept., 1850, in Salt Lake City, Utah.
Their children. Leonora Charlotte, b. 23 Jan., 1847, in Mt. Pisgah,
Iowa. d. June, 1847, in Mt. Pisgah, Iowa.
Roxcy Armatha, b. 14 Dec., 1849, in Salt Lake City.
ROXCY ARMATHA SNOW
m. ELIJAH ARNOLD, son of William and Olivia A. Box, who were born in
England,
b. 4 Jan., 1844.
Their chil. Charlotte Olivia, b. 22 Aug., 1867, in Brigham City, Box
Elder Co., Utah.
Roxcy Estella, b. 4 Jan., 1870, in Brigham City, Box Elder Co., Utah.
Ada Trieste, b. 7 Feb., 1875, in Brigham City, Box Elder Co., Utah.
Dora Viola, b. 29 Oct., 1878, in Brigham City, Box Elder Co., Utah. d.
Sept., 1879, in Brigham City, Box Elder Co., Utah.
Ella Armeda, b. 31 Oct., 1880, in Brigham City, Box Elder Co., Utah.
Eliza R. Snow, b. 21 Jan., 1884, in Brigham City, Box Elder Co., Utah.
LORENZO SNOW
m. MARY ADALINE, dr. of Dan and Percy Amanda Pettibone Goddard, b. 8
March, 1812, in Hartford, Connecticut.
Their chil. Rosetta Adaline b. 7 Nov., 1846, in Mount Pisgah, Iowa.
Oliver Goddard, b. 20 Feb., 1849, in Salt Lake City, Utah.
Isadore Percy, b. 24 Feb., 1855, in Salt Lake City, Utah.
ROSETTA ADALINE SNOW
m. CHESTER LOVELAND, b. 30 Dec., 1817, in Ashtabulah Co., Ohio.
Their chil. Lorenzo Chester, b. 9 Jan., 1868, in Brigham City, Box
Elder Co., Utah. d. 14 July, 1874, in Brigham City, Box Elder Co., Utah.
Mary Adaline, b. 19 Dec., 1869, in Brigham City, Box Elder Co., Utah.
Rosetta Abigail, b. 7 Aug., 1875, in Brigham City, Box Elder Co., Utah.
d. 12 Nov. 1875, in Brigham City, Box Elder Co., Utah.
Myrtie Adell, b. 17 April, 1878, in Brigham City, Box Elder Co., Utah.
d. 1 Sept., 1878, in Brigham City, Box Elder Co., Utah.
Oliver George Morris, b. 2 Oct, 1882, in Brigham City, Box Elder Co.,
Utah.
OLIVER GODDARD SNOW
m. MARY B., dr. of Eli Harvey and Susannah Neff Peirce, b. 21 Sept.,
1853, in Salt Lake City, Utah,
Their chil. Mary Orilla, b. 8 Dec., 1874, in Brigham City, Box Elder
Co., Utah.
Oliver Goddard, b. 9 June, 1876, in Brigham City, Box Elder Co., Utah.
d. 10 Feb., 1879, in Brigham City, Box Elder Co., Utah.
Eugene Peirce, b. 27 Feb., 1878, in Brigham City, Box Elder Co., Utah.
Eliza Roxcy, b. 3 Nov., 1879, in Brigham City, Box Elder Co., Utah.
Lionel Vivian, b. 19 Oct., 1881, in Brigham City, Box Elder Co., Utah.
Clyde Virginius, b. 27 May, 1883, in Brigham City, Box Elder Co., Utah.
ISADORE PERCY SNOW
m. HOMER S. WOODWORTH.
Their chil. Lottie Lucien, b. 13 Sept., 1875, in Nebraska. d. 26 Oct.,
1876, in Brigham City, Utah.
Mary Adaline, b. 8 Feb., 1878, in Brigham City, Utah.
LORENZO SNOW
m. SARAH ANN, dr. of John and Polly Tillotson Prichard, both in Mass.
b. 29 Nov., 1826, in Nelson, Portage Co., Ohio.
Their chil. Eliza Sarah, b. 30 Nov., 1847, in Mount Pisgah, Iowa.
Sylvia, b. 16 Jan., 1850, in Salt Lake City, Utah.
Lorenzo, Jr., b. 7 July, 1853, in Salt Lake City, Utah.
Parintha, b. 5 Oct., 1855, in Salt Lake City, Utah.
Laurin Alvirus, b. 2 Dec., 1863, Brigham City, Utah.
ELIZA SARAH SNOW
m. GEORGE, s. of John and Mary Blair Dunford, b. 18 Dec., 1822, in
Trowbridge, Wiltshire, England,
Their chil. Georgie, b. 20 March, 1871, in Salt Lake City. d. 30 Oct.,
1872, in Salt Lake City.
Venice, b. 7 Jan., 1873. in Salt Lake City.
Sarah Estella, b. 31 July, 1875, in Salt Lake City.
George William, b. 1 Jan., 1878, in Salt Lake City. d. in Salt Lake
City.
Lorenzo Snow, b. 8 Dec., 1879, in Salt Lake City.
Rupert Algernon F. Isaac, b. 10 Sept., 1882, in Salt Lake City.
SYLVIA SNOW
m. CHAUNCEY, s. of Chauncey Walker and Mary Hoagland West, b. 3 Aug.,
1849, in Salt Lake City.
Their chil. Sarah Claudine, b. 7 March, 1869, in St. George, Washington
Co., Utah.
Mary Frouie, b. 25 July, 1872, in Brigham City, Utah.
Chauncey, Jr., b. 13 Sept., 1875, in Brigham City, Utah.
Sylvia, b. 21 April, 1880, in Brigham City, Utah.
LORENZO SNOW, JR.,
m. HULDAH, dr. of J. P. and Sarah Jensen, b. 4 March, 1860, in Brigham
City, Utah.
Their chil. Lorenzo, 3d, b. 16 Oct., 1881, in Brigham City, Utah.
LORENZO SNOW
m. HARRIET AMELIA, dr. of Aaron and Elizabeth P. Squires, b. 13 Sept.,
1819, in Aurora, Geauga Co., Ohio.
Their chil. Abigail Harriet, b. 16 July, 1849, in Mount Pisgah, Iowa.
Lucius Aaron, b. 16 Dec., 1851, in Salt Lake City.
Twins, Alonzo Henry, b. 15 Feb., 1854, in Salt Lake City. d. 1 Nov.,
1854, in Salt Lake City.
Amelia Henrietta, b. 15 Feb., 1854, in Salt Lake City. d. 30 Oct.,
1854, in Salt Lake City.
Celestia Armeda, b. 2 Dec., 1856, in Salt Lake City.
ABIGAIL HARRIET SNOW
m. THOMAS CALDWELL, b. 8 Feb., 1842, in Glasgow, Scotland.
Their chil.
Twins, Thomas Sylvanus, b. 5 Feb., 1866, in Brigham City, Utah.
Lorenzo Sylvester, b. 5 Feb., 1866, in Brigham City, Utah.
ABIGAIL H. SNOW CALDWELL
m. MORRIS DAVID ROSENBAUM, b. 11 July, 1831, in Fordam, Prussia.
Their chil. Harriet, b. 2 March, 1869, in Brigham City, Utah. d. 2
Aug., 1871, in Brigham City, Utah.
Moses, b. 19 Aug., 1871, in Brigham City, Utah. d. 22 July, 1874, in
Brigham City, Utah.
Nettie May, b. 13 Oct., 1873, in Brigham City, Utah.
Alice Maud, b. 4 May, 1876, in Brigham City, Utah.
Morris, b. 3 March, 1878, in Brigham City, Utah.
Minnie Mabel, b. 19 March, 1880, in Brigham City, Utah.
Lucius, b. 23 June, 1882, in Brigham City, Utah.
LUCIUS AARON SNOW
m. ELIZABETH WILSON, b. 1 Sept., 1856, in Salt Lake City, Utah.
Their chil. Lucius Wilson, b. 22 Sept., 1876, in Brigham City, Utah. d.
20 Jan., 1879, in Brigham City, Utah.
Luella, b. 23 June, 1878, in Brigham City, Utah.
Frutilla, b. 12 July, 1880, in Brigham City, Utah.
Lauredo, b. 13 Sept., 1882, in Brigham City, Utah. d. 18 Aug., 1883, in
Brigham City, Utah.
CELESTIA ARMEDA SNOW
m. BRIGHAM MORRIS, son of President Brigham and Margaret Peirce
Whitesides Young, b. 18 Jan., 1854, in Salt Lake City.
Their chil. Alice Armeda, b. 13 Feb., 1876, in Salt Lake City.
Brigham Morris, b. 28 Feb., 1878, Brigham City, Utah.
Franklin Snow, b. 13 Feb., 1881, in Brigham City, Utah. d. 14 Feb.,
1881, in Brigham City, Utah.
Lucius, b. 10 April, 1882, in Brigham City, Utah. d. 5 March, 1883. in
Brigham City, Utah.
LORENZO SNOW
m. ELEANOR, dr. of Christian and Susan Pauling Houtz, b. 14 Aug., 1831,
in Pennsylvania.
Their chil. Amanda Eleanor, b. 19 April, 1850, in Salt Lake City. d. 21
Oct., 1850, in Salt Lake City.
Ida, b. 2 Jan., 1854, in Salt Lake City.
Eugenia, b. 5 July, 1856, in Brigham City.
Alphonso Houtz, b. 13 Oct., 1858, in Salt Lake City.
Susan Imogene, b. 4 May, 1861, in Brigham City. d. 16 Oct., 1864, in
Brigham City.
Roxcy Lana, b. 22 Oct., 1863, in Brigham City.
Hortensia, b. 17 July, 1867, in Brigham City.
Chauncey Edgar, b. 8 July, 1870, in Brigham City.
IDA SNOW m. GEORGE FRANCIS, son of George D. and Ellen P. Gibbs, b. 23
Nov., 1846, in Haverford, Pembroke Co., South Wales.
Their chil. Georgie Winnetta, b. 14 Aug., 1877, d. 30 April, 1878, in
Brigham City.
George Snow, b. 14 March, 1879,
Eleanor Snow, b. 4 May, 1881, in Salt Lake City. d. 28 July, 1881, in
Salt Lake City.
Ralston, b. 7 June, 1883, in Salt Lake City
EUGENIA SNOW m. LEONIDAS THOMAS, son of Eli Harvey and Susannah Neff
Peirce, b.
Their chil. Leonidas Eustace Baudine, b. 11 Oct., 1877, in Brigham
City. d. 8 May, 1879, in Brigham City.
Eugene Laran, b. 29 Oct., 1879, in Brigham City.
Eugenia, b. 28 April, 1882, in Brigham City.
LORENZO SNOW m. CAROLINE HORTON, b. 25 Dec., 1828, in England, d. Feb.,
1857, in Brigham City.
Their chil.
Twins, Clarissa Caroline, b. 19 July, 1854, in Salt Lake City.
Franklin, b. 3 Feb., 1857, in Brigham City.
Sarah Augusta, b. 3 Feb., 1857, in Brigham City. d. 17 Feb., 1857, in
Brigham City.
CLARISSA CAROLINE m. JOHN ARCHIBALD, son of Charles A. and Mary Haig
McAllister, b. 22 Aug., 1851, in Newcastle-on-Tyne, Northumberland,
England.
Their chil. John Archibald, Jr., b. 10 April, 1872, Brigham City, Box
Elder Co., Utah.
Lorenzo Charles, b. 3 March, 1874, in Logan, Cache Co., Utah.
Roy Snow, b. 5 Sept., 1876, in Logan, Cache Co., Utah.
William Lucius, b. 19 Sept., 1878, in Logan, Cache Co., Utah.
Mary Jean, b. 15 Nov., 1880, in Logan, Cache Co., Utah.
Frank Snow, b. 21 March, 1883, in Logan, Cache Co., Utah.
LORENZO SNOW m. MARY ELIZABETH, dr. of Jacob and Lydia M. Houtz, b. 19
May, 1840, in Penn's Town, Union Co. Pa.
Their chil. Lydia May, b. 21 Jan., 1860, in Salt Lake City.
Jacob E. Fitzroy, b. 31 Oct., 1862, in Salt Lake City. d. 2 Dec., 1862,
in Salt Lake City.
Virginia M. Marian, b. 30 Jan., 1864, in Salt Lake City.
Mansfield Lorenzo, b. 8 Sept., 1866, in Salt Lake City.
Mortimer Joseph, b. 19 Nov., 1868, in Brigham City.
Flora Bell Birdie, b. 19 July, 1871, in Brigham City.
LYDIA MAY SNOW m. ELI HARVEY, s. of Eli Harvey and Susannah Neff
Peirce, b. 27 Dec., 1852, in Brigham City.
Their chil. Pearl Snow, b. 17 July, 1883, in Brigham City.
LORENZO SNOW m. PHEBE AMELIA, dr. of President Wilford and Phebe Carter
Woodruff, b. 4 March, 1842, in Nauvoo, Hancock Co., Ill.
Their chil. Mary Amanda, b. 4 Sept., 1860, in Salt Lake City. d. 6
Sept., 1860, in Salt Lake City.
Leslie Woodruff, b. 6 Feb., 1862, in Salt Lake City.
Orion, b. 6 Sept., 1866, in Salt Lake City.
Milton, b. 7 Feb., 1869, in Brigham City.
Phebe Augusta Florence, b. 7 Aug., 1870, in Brigham City.
LORENZO SNOW m. MINNIE, dr. of J. P. and Sarah Clawson Jensen, of
Denmark and Germany, b. 10 Oct., 1855, in Brigham City, Utah.
Their chil. Clarence Leroi, b. 26 Aug., 1876, Brigham City, Utah.
Minnie Mabel, b. 23 May, 1879, Brigham City, Utah.
Cora Jeane, b. 16 Feb., 1883, Brigham City, Utah. d. 11 Aug., 1883,
Brigham City, Utah.
_Children by First Husband_.
MARY ADALINE, dr. of Dan and Percy Amanda Pettibone Goddard, m. GEORGE
WASHINGTON HENDRICKSON, 6 March, 1834. b. 8 March, 1812.
Their chil. Hiram Ackley, b. 15 Dec., 1834, in Akron, Summit Co., Ohio.
Orville Daniel, b. 4 Nov., 1836, in McDonough Co., Ohio.
Jacob Wayne, b. 15 Dec., 1839, in Coles Co., Ohio.
HYRUM ACKLEY HENDRICKSON m. ELIZABETH, dr. of Christian and Catherine
Clapper, b. 4 Sept., 1837, in Ray Co., Mo.
Their chil. Elizabeth Adaline, b. 30 May, 1857, in Brigham City, Utah.
Hyrum Marcellus, b. 23 Aug., 1859, in Brigham City, Utah.
Horace Byron, b. 12 Sept., 1861, in Brigham City, Utah. d. 2 Sept.,
1878, in Brigham City, Utah.
Catherine Rosetta, b. 16 Jan., 1869, in Brigham City, Utah.
ELIZABETH ADALINE HENDRICKSON m. MANUS JOHNSON,
Their chil. Vivian Oretta, b. 21 Dec., 1876, in Parowan, Iron Co.
Lawrence M. Ackley, b. 12 Dec., 1878, in Parowan, Iron Co.
Irving Percy, b. 10 June, 1881, in Parowan, Iron Co.
ORVILLE DANIEL HENDRICKSON m. EMMA SMITH BOLTON, b. 1 Jan., 1842, in
New York.
Their chil. Orville Bolton, b. 7 May, 1862, in Mill Creek Ward, S. L.
Co.
Mary Emma, b. 10 Jan., 1864, in Brigham City.
George Edwin, b. 22 June, 1866, in Brigham City.
Albert Edgar, b. 3 May, 1868, in Brigham City.
Charlotte, b. 23 July, 1870, in Mill Creek Ward, S. L. Co. d. 23 July,
1870, aged ten hours.
Charles Lewis, b. 27 Oct., 1871, in Mill Creek Ward, S. L. Co.
Vivian, b. 12 May, 1874, in Mill Creek Ward, S. L. Co.
Genevia, b. 8 Sept., 1876, in Mill Creek Ward, S. L. Co.
Imogene, b. 23 Nov., 1878, in Mill Creek Ward, S. L. Co.
Leonidas, b. 22 Aug., 1880, in Mill Creek Ward, S. L. Co.
Lilian, b. 3 Jan., 1884. in Mill Creek Ward, S. L. Co.
JACOB WAYNE HENDRICKSON m. ABBY BRANDON.
Their chil. Jacob Wayne, b. 7 Aug., 1868, in Brigham City. d. 13 March,
1869, in Brigham City.
Isola Isadore, b. 12 March, 1870, in Brigham City. d.
JACOB WAYNE HENDRICKSON m. SARAH JOSEPHINE RITTER, b. 30 Dec., 1849, in
Salt Lake City.
Their chil. Mary Adaline, b. 23 July, 1878.
SUPPLEMENT TO BIOGRAPHY AND AUTOBIOGRAPHY.
On the 26th of October, 1872, my brother Lorenzo left home on a tour
to Palestine. A short time previous to this, President Brigham Young
suggested to his first counselor, President G. A. Smith, to select a
company for that purpose, and to go to Jerusalem; the object of which
the following epistle briefly explains:
Salt Lake City, Utah Territory,
15th October, 1872.
_President George A. Smith_:
Dear Sir.--As you are about to start on an extensive tour through
Europe and Asia Minor, where you will doubtless be brought in contact
with men of position and influence in society, we desire that you
observe closely what openings now exist, or where they may be effected,
for the introduction of the Gospel into the various countries you shall
visit.
When you get to the land of Palestine, we wish you to dedicate
and consecrate that land to the Lord, that it may be blessed with
fruitfulness, preparatory to the return of the Jews, in fulfilment of
prophecy and the accomplishment of the purposes of our heavenly Father.
We pray that you may be preserved to travel in peace and safety, that
you may be abundantly blessed with words of wisdom and free utterance
in all your conversations pertaining to the holy Gospel, dispelling
prejudice and sowing seeds of righteousness among the people.
(Signed) Brigham Young,
Daniel H. Wells.
When on this interesting tour Lorenzo wrote a series of descriptive
letters which were forwarded from time to time and published in the
_Deseret News_, in Salt Lake City. After our return, we compiled
his letters, with those of other members of the party, and had them
published in a neat volume of nearly four hundred pages, entitled
"Correspondence Of Palestine Tourists."
We think his biography and autobiography would be incomplete were this
mission of my brother entirely ignored; but to avoid breaking the
thread of our preceding narrative by inserting this correspondence
in chronological order, we have decided on the alternative of a
supplement; and, having already enlarged this volume beyond our
original design, we shall omit a portion of his communications.
When on our return from Palestine we reached Vienna in time to witness
the grand opening of the "world's fair" of 1873. Before leaving that
city, my brother was informed, through the press, of his appointment at
the general conference as one of seven counselors to President Brigham
Young, which position he held until the death of the President.
LETTER I.
National Monument.--Its construction.--One hundred and eighty
marble statues.--Lofty spire set with thousands of gems.--Embossed
globe.--Statue of Prince Albert.--Tower of London.--Queen Elizabeth's
Armory.--Torture rooms.--Ann Boleyn.--Earl of Essex.--Lady Jane
Grey.--Executioner's axe.--Instruments of torture.
London, England, November 28TH, 1872.
_Editor Deseret News_:
Through the blessings of a kind Providence, we have safely crossed the
Atlantic, and are now in London. We have visited the Prince Consort
National Monument. It is situated in Kensington Gardens, in the central
part of the metropolis. It is designed to perpetuate the name of Prince
Albert, also to show the high estimation in which he was held by the
British nation, likewise, to represent allegorically, by sculpture and
Mosaic pictures, the arts and sciences which he fostered, and to point
to some of his important undertakings, the great National Exhibition
being the foremost.
For grandeur of design and excellency and beauty of workmanship, I
believe it excels every other structure of a commemorative character
in any part of the world. In approaching it, I was struck with
astonishment by its beauty and magnificence. A vast column, covered
from base to pinnacle with beautiful sculptures, rich carvings,
embossed and Mosaic work of the most elegant description, beautiful
foliage of beaten metal, fine enameling, the whole being set out in
artistical order with twelve thousand gems sparkling like stars in the
firmament.
This monument, including the foundation, rises one hundred and eighty
feet above the surrounding ground, terminating in a large ball,
embossed, supporting a magnificent cross. It commences with a mass
of concrete sixty feet square, seventeen feet thick, overlaid with
two courses of thick stone; upon this is erected a substructure of
massive brick work, upon which the great column is based. The base of
this column, or "podium," as it is termed, is about twelve feet high,
surrounded by one hundred and eighty marble statues about six feet in
height, representing men of all ages, distinguished in the arts and
sciences. This podium, built of massive blocks of granite, forms the
foundation for the "shrine" or tabernacle, a vast canopy about fifty
feet high, richly ornamented, beneath which, upon a lofty pedestal,
will be placed the colossal statue of the prince. This tabernacle is
supported by four clusters of pillars of finely polished granite of
various colors. Several of these pillars are two feet in diameter,
held together, in part, by an ornamental band of bronze, set with
polished "gem-like stones;" and in part are cemented by a dove-tail
groove to the central core, around which they cluster. The tabernacle
is terminated by four gables, ornamented with Mosaic pictures and
decorated with carvings and enamel work and polished gem-like stones,
some of them nearly four inches in diameter. Upon this tabernacle
is reared a lofty spire of cast iron work, ornamented in the most
magnificent style and set with thousands of gems. Out from this
tabernacle, near its angles, arise four small structures built in
imitation, in many respects, of the principal one, being enriched and
highly ornamented from base to pinnacle. This column, or spire, the
same as the tabernacle which forms its base, is surrounded with statues
at successive heights, standing in its ornamented niches, and at their
angles.
Four of these figures, standing in niches above the base of the spire,
are eight and a half feet high, the four at the angles are seven and a
half in height; far above them the spire is flanked by statues, six and
a half feet high, representing angels; and still higher, other figures
six feet in height, with a like representation. These sixteen statues
are all of copper.
This lofty spire is crowned with a magnificent globe, beautifully
embossed, supporting a great cross highly ornamented.
A vast pyramid of granite steps surrounds this monument. The total
length of these steps is equal to two miles and a half, and the number
of steps is eighteen hundred and three. Several of the blocks of
granite in the base of the column and in the pillars weigh fifteen tons
each; the working of each of these stones occupied twelve men sixteen
weeks. The iron girders which bear the spire weigh twenty-three tons,
and the weight resting upon them is two hundred and ten tons. The spire
is made of iron, built up in stages, and bolted together; the girders
are of wrought iron. The gems and inlays are formed of vitreous enamel,
spar, agates and onyxes, more than twelve thousand in number; two
hundred of these are _real_ onyxes, many of them nearly four inches in
diameter.
The general features of the design are thus delineated: The prince is
to be represented by a colossal statue seated upon a lofty pedestal
beneath this magnificent canopy; around and above him are gathered in
series and in groups the most beautiful works of man, illustrating
the arts and sciences which he promoted, and the subjects to which he
devoted his attention. Upon four large pedestals, composed of blocks
of granite, at the outer angle of the steps, the four quarters of the
globe are represented by groups of marble statues. Upon the pedestal
forming the angles of the podium, or base of the tabernacle, are groups
of marble statues, illustrative of agriculture, manufactures, commerce
and engineering. Again, still above, on pedestals of polished granite,
are statues in bronze, representing astronomy, chemistry, geology
and geometry. Above these is another set or order of bronze statues
representing rhetoric, medicine, philosophy and physiology. The four
sides of the podium contain one hundred and eighty marble statues,
representing eminent artists in printing, sculpture, architecture,
music and poetry. From the base to the roof of this tabernacle, the
whole range of arts and sciences is illustrated. The column above
is devoted to illustrating virtue and religion. The four statues in
the niches of the spire point to the Christian virtues--Faith, Hope.
Charity and Humility. The four figures at the angles represent the
moral virtues--Fortitude, Prudence, Justice and Temperance. The four
angels above them are in attitudes signifying resignation of worldly
honors, while those above, surrounding the base of the cross, are in
attitudes as if desiring celestial happiness.
Here I will close my sketch of this curious and wonderful specimen of
intellectual and physical effort, so happily and beautifully displayed
in this magnificent monumental structure.
Yesterday we visited the houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey,
Westminster Bridge--thence, per underground railway, to Charing Cross
and Trafalgar Square.
If one wishes to indulge in melancholy or the sympathetic, he should
visit the "Tower of London," and devote an hour or two in examining
its mouldering records and crumbling inscriptions, pointing to
heart-rending scenes enacted in past ages within its dark and gloomy
walls. In company with others of our tourists, I visited this place,
although not for the purpose above mentioned.
It is a sombre mass, consisting principally of antique walls, gates,
portcullis, bastions, moat and twelve towers. None of the excellency,
beauty, splendor and grandeur is exhibited in these structures as
is seen in Prince Albert's monument. Simplicity and solidity are
characteristics of its architecture; I was impressed with no other,
with the exception of oppressive gloominess.
About thirteen acres are enclosed by the moat surrounding the Tower,
and a double line of walls and bulwarks encircles inside the moat, with
a street running between, except on the south.
The White Tower, or citadel, the most important edifice, occupies
the central part of these premises. It is one hundred and sixteen
feet by ninety-six, and ninety-two in height, with walls fifteen
feet in thickness. It was built in the latter part of the eleventh
century, nearly eight hundred years ago, and is a specimen of
Norman architecture. It is divided from base to summit into various
compartments by walls seven feet in thickness. The smallest apartment
is now occupied by what is termed Queen Elizabeth's Armory. On one
side of this room, formed in the wall, is a cell eight feet high by
ten, without light except at its entrance--formerly the prison of Sir
Walter Raleigh, Ralstone, Fane and Culpepper. Above this apartment is
St. John's Chapel, another specimen of Norman architecture. A chaplain
was formally engaged to perform service here for about twelve dollars
per annum. The most spacious room on the upper floor, in former ages,
was used by the kings as a council room, where their courts were held.
It is said to have been here that, when the council was assembled,
the Duke of Gloucester demanded Lord Hastings' immediate execution.
This chamber and the banqueting room are used at the present time as
depositories for small arms. Great artistic skill is displayed in the
arrangement of some of these arms and their implements, in form of
floors, aquatic plants appearing in streams of water, luminous stars,
and the sun rising in splendor.
We were conducted to the Horse Armory, which is nearly one hundred and
fifty feet in length by thirty-four in breadth, filled with objects
of curiosity and historical interest. There were equestrian figures,
others on foot, dressed in armor of different periods embracing over
two and a half centuries. It is curious to trace the development of the
idea relating to armor and weapons, as exhibited in the multitude of
those specimens. The conception in its perfect development, in regard
to armor, was strikingly illustrated by a full suit on a life-sized
effigy of Henry VIII, mounted on a horse. The suit of armor was made
of plated metal, artistically arranged in sections overlapping one
another, and turning upon pivots, so as to afford the body, head, neck
and limbs free motion, without exposing any portion. It is ponderous,
weighing, as nearly as I recollect, about one hundred and twenty
pounds. This armor is elaborately worked--inlaid with gold and very
beautiful. We were shown a rough suit he wore at the age of eighteen,
which weighed ninety-two pounds.
The first specimens of armor manifested the idea as rather confused:
leather cut in pieces in the form of fish scales and sewed on cloth or
deer skins. The next stage of development appears in a specimen made
of small rings of steel sewed on to the same material. Again, in the
beginning of the thirteenth century, a higher point of development
was reached--armor was constructed of vast quantities of small rings
intersecting one with another, so as to form a connected garment. After
this, another improvement was introduced--mixed chain and plate being
worn on the arms and legs. And thus invention progressed to its full
development as represented at the period of Henry VIII.
We saw various specimens of weapons invented at different periods,
commencing with the cross-bow, the spear and battle axe, exhibiting
step by step successive improvements represented in the matchlock,
improved matchlock, flintlock, improved flintlock, percussionlock,
improved percussion, double-barreled gun, improved double-barrel,
revolving cylinder, cylinder improved, until we have reached the most
perfect weapon now known.
The twelve towers of this fortress were erected, principally, in the
early part of the thirteenth century; some of them, however, were built
about the close of the eleventh. The strange scenes enacted in past
ages, beneath these frowning battlements, form a dark and bloody page
in English history. Observing the multitude of objects bearing distinct
marks of those terrible events, my mind was almost overpowered with sad
and gloomy reflections. In these dark and loathsome dungeons, kings
and queens, after having been divested of their crowns and robes of
royalty, were forced to make their ignominious abode.
These walls bear traces of having echoed the sighs and groans of
illustrious men while gasping for life beneath the bloody instruments
of horrid torture, also of princes and nobles having been thrust into
these dungeons and ended their lives by means shrouded in mystery!
Tradition speaks of secret passages, of torture rooms and hidden
recesses within and underneath these walls where I stood. Many
eminent personages left inscriptions upon their prison walls, which
yet remain--sad mementoes of themselves and their sufferings. Queen
Ann, having enjoyed a few years of pomp and splendor, basking in the
smiles of Henry VIII, was forced to exchange queenly habiliments for
the prison costume, in which she passed from this loathsome captivity
to the executioner's block. Queen Elizabeth's favorite, the Earl of
Essex, the pride of the English court, was immured within one of these
towers previous to being beheaded upon the scaffold. The beautiful,
amiable and accomplished Lady Jane Grey was incarcerated here. "Jane,"
engraved by Lord Dudley, her unfortunate husband, on the stone walls
of his prison, which I saw, reminded me forcibly of the melancholy
circumstance. Two princes, sons of Edward IV, while suffering captivity
in what is termed "the bloody tower," were secretly murdered, and
afterwards their bodies found mouldering beneath its walls.
We were shown the executioner's axe, the heading block, thumbscrews,
iron collars and other horrid instruments for human torture. We were
conducted to a small enclosure, surrounded with iron palings, where
many illustrious men and women of distinction and royalty had been
privately executed. Lorenzo Snow.
LETTER II.
At Haarlem.--Two thousand people executed.--Wonderful organ.--A Dutch
wedding.--Amsterdam.--A city on piles.--Formidable army of worms.--One
hundred islands and two hundred and eighty bridges.--Palace on
piles.--Diamond cutting.--Charitable institutions.--Antwerp.--Notre
Dame.--Masterpiece of Rubens.--Royal Palace.--Brussels.--St.
Nicholas.--Singular marriage.--Royal Theatre.--National Palace.
Antwerp, Belgium, December 7th, 1872.
_Editor Deseret News_:
We arrived at Haarlem _en route_ to Amsterdam, on Wednesday, the fourth
of December. It is a town of considerable importance, containing thirty
thousand inhabitants--in former periods the residence of the Counts
of Holland. In the latter part of the sixteenth century, during the
Spanish war, the citizens of Haarlem, after suffering seven months'
siege, in which they endured the severest hardships, were forced to
capitulate. Ten thousand people on that occasion perished by famine or
lost their lives in the terrible encounters of those bloody struggles.
The commandant and the Protestant clergy, together with two thousand
townspeople, were barbarously executed, after having surrendered.
Frederick of Toledo, son of the Duke of Alva, commanded the besiegers,
and had given solemn assurances of life and honorable treatment. We saw
traces of a striking character still remaining as sad mementoes of the
atrocious deeds.
St. Bavon, erected about three hundred and seventy years ago, is the
principal church in Haarlem. This is a magnificent structure, four
hundred and twenty-five feet in length; its nave is supported by
twenty-eight massive columns, eighteen feet in circumference. This
church is renowned for its famous organ, which, for a long time, has
been considered the largest and most powerful in the world. It has four
key boards, sixty-four stops, five thousand metal and two thousand
wooden pipes; the largest of these pipes is thirty-two feet long,
and fifteen inches in diameter. It is very beautiful--adorned with
marble statuary, life size, and in attractive attitudes, representing
personages playing on instruments of various descriptions. We employed
the organist and three or four blowers to exhibit its merits.
Imitations of different tones of the pianoforte, the trumpet, whistle,
battle call, sacred music, closing with a tremendous thunder storm, all
were executed with admirable accuracy, fully satisfying us as to its
wonderful capabilities.
We saw a cannon ball, which was nearly buried in the wall, having been
thrown through an opposite window from a Spanish gun during the siege
above mentioned.
While exploring this church for objects of curiosity, we were
interrupted by the approach of a wedding party, which afforded some
diversion, especially to our young tourists, who had never witnessed a
Dutch wedding. The bride and groom were accompanied by a grave clerical
gentleman, to whom we bowed with becoming reverence, and with smiles
of our hearty approval to the happy groom and blushing bride. As we
discovered nothing in the ceremonies surprisingly characteristic, I
omit description.
In front of this church is a bronze statue of Koster, formerly a
citizen of Haarlem, representing him as the inventor of the art of
printing.
Having spent two hours in that interesting town, we took cars for
Amsterdam, where we arrived about half-past 3 p.m. Amsterdam is
the great commercial city of Holland, numbering two hundred and
seventy-five thousand inhabitants, of whom fifty-seven thousand are
Roman Catholics, and twenty-eight thousand Jews. It is built over a
salt marsh, upon piles driven from forty to fifty feet into the ground.
We were informed that one house only, in this city, stands on any other
foundation. These people apparently feel as secure upon these wooden
posts as if founded on solid ground, although at one period this faith
in their safety was fearfully shaken. While busied in making canals
and windmills--smoking their pipes, unsuspicious of danger, the enemy
in vast numbers had succeeded in securing a lodgment beneath the city
and commenced mining and sapping the entire substructure--penetrating
and cutting into the very heart of these underpinnings. These fearful
invaders were _wood worms_! They were honeycombing the wooden piles
with alarming rapidity, threatening to tumble all Amsterdam into the
great salt marsh. The whole city was in consternation. Every Dutchman's
ingenuity and military tactics were called into requisition to devise
measures to rout the enemy. Some of the crusaders were captured while
working the trenches, and submitted to the inspection of zoologists,
in hopes of discovering some vulnerable point susceptible of attack,
but all to no purpose--still they were mining and sapping, boring
and eating, and, by millions, doubling and quadrupling. At last,
however, these belligerents ended their hostilities after the same
fashion as Bonaparte's army in Russia--the Holland winter finished
them, It appears that these insects had been imported by some vessel
from a warm climate--the colder regions of the north compelling them
to succumb and leave the honest Dutchman to smoke his meerschaum in
peace and security. Living specimens of these insects are preserved in
the Cabinet of Zoologists in Amsterdam, where they may be seen by the
tourist.
The expense of these foundations for building frequently exceeds
that of their superstructures. The neglect of proper attention to
this matter is liable to result in disaster. An extensive warehouse,
containing three thousand five hundred tons of grain, was precipitated
into the marsh, in consequence of the inefficiency of the foundation.
The city is about nine miles in circumference--intersected by
numerous canals, dividing it into nearly one hundred islands, which
circumstance, in connection with other resemblances, has given it the
title of the "Venice of the North." Many of these canals are very
broad--flanked with avenues of tall elms, presenting a handsome and
picturesque appearance, comparing favorably with the finest streets
in any city we have visited. Two hundred and eighty bridges form the
crossings of these canals. A reservoir about thirteen miles distant
supplies the inhabitants with drinking water, which is conveyed in
pipes.
We visited the Museum, which contains many valuable paintings, chiefly
the works of the old Dutch school. The finest edifice in Amsterdam
is the "King's Palace," which rests on a foundation of thirteen
thousand six hundred and fifty-nine piles; its length is two hundred
and eighty-two feet--two hundred and thirty-five in width, and one
hundred and sixteen feet high. Its tower is sixty-six feet high,
containing a splendid set of chimes. The interior of the palace is
grand and beautiful--its principal apartments, through which we passed,
are constructed of white marble, and many sumptuously decorated. The
"Council Chamber" is one hundred and twenty feet long by sixty broad
over the entrance, and opposite to it we noticed flags and trophies
wrested from the Spaniards and other enemies. We also visited the
Navy Yard, and were conducted through the different departments of
shipbuilding. Steamers, monitors and ironclads were in course of
erection. We were amused in viewing the operation of their ponderous
and complicated machinery. By a downward stroke chunks over three
inches in diameter were punched out of cold iron plate above an inch
in thickness. Ponderous iron pillars were pared, polished and grooved,
blocks of iron eight inches thick were turned and twisted into every
desirable shape. It seemed impossible that any projectile could be
forced through an eight inch block of iron; we were, however, shown one
of this description which had been perforated by a cannon ball after
having passed through a covering of oak at least one foot in thickness.
The most remarkable trade in this city is that of diamond cutting,
which is done almost exclusively by Jews. The stones are cut or sawed
through by means of wires covered with diamond dust and polished by
being pressed by the workmen against a rapidly revolving iron disk,
moistened with a mixture of oil and diamond dust. The last material has
proved to be indispensable in this work, as no other substance will
make impressions on the diamond.
Amsterdam is celebrated for its numerous charitable institutions.
It has upwards of forty designed for the benefit of the sick, aged
and indigent, lunatics, foundlings and widows, all being supported
by voluntary contributions. Upwards of twenty thousand poor are
sustained at the expense of private individuals. We saw a number of
establishments for the poor, which appeared more like palaces for
the rich than dwellings for the destitute. This city, as well as
many others in Holland, is famous in its liberal arrangements for
educating the poorer classes. The "Society for Public Welfare," founded
in 1784, by a Baptist minister, is an admirable institution, having
for its object the education and moral culture of the lower classes,
and extending its operations throughout the kingdom of Holland.
It comprises fourteen thousand members, who subscribe two dollars
annually. It educates teachers, publishes schoolbooks, establishes
Sunday schools, reading rooms and libraries, publishes works of
literature, bestows rewards, and confers public distinctions on
persons who have made themselves conspicuous by their generosity and
philanthropic conduct.
Paris, France, December 12TH, 1872.
We arrived in the city of Antwerp, Belgium, seventh of December. It
is one of the finest cities in the kingdom, embracing a population of
one hundred and thirty-three thousand. It is the principal seaport of
the country, carrying on an extensive traffic with Great Britain and
Germany. Among other objects of interest, we examined the celebrated
cathedral, Notre Dame, three hundred and ninety feet in length and
two hundred and sixteen feet in width, the most magnificent Gothic
structure in Belgium. It was commenced in the middle of the thirteenth
century, and completed one hundred years after. It is the only church
in Europe that has six aisles. Its skilfully executed and elaborate
carvings, numerous paintings by celebrated artists, Mosaic work of the
finest description, marble statues of exquisite workmanship, gorgeous
gildings, and decorations of the most costly character, altogether form
a scene of great beauty and magnificence. The tower is four hundred
and two feet in height and is ascended by six hundred and twenty-two
steps. It affords a splendid view of the city and surrounding country.
Its chimes are among the most complete in Belgium, consisting of
ninety-nine bells, the smallest of which is but fifteen inches in
diameter, the largest weighs eight tons.
We also visited the Museum, containing a collection of five hundred and
sixty pictures, possessing great merit, the productions of celebrated
masters. One of these by Rubens, which I consider the most perfect,
particularly attracted my attention. It represents Christ crucified
between two thieves; Longinus, the Roman officer, mounted on a grey
horse, is piercing the Savior's side with a lance; the penitent thief,
a grey-haired man, is invoking the Savior for the last time. In the
foreground stands the Virgin Mother, whom Mary, the wife of Cleophas,
in vain endeavors to console. Farther back, St. John leans against the
cross of the impenitent thief, weeping; Mary Magdalene on her knees, at
the foot of the cross, implores Longinus to spare the sacred body of
her Master.
The whole is drawn with almost startling accuracy; indeed, I never saw
a life scene on canvas so strikingly illustrated. The writhing agony of
the impenitent malefactor, whose legs have just been broken by a Roman
soldier, while on the contrary, the composed expression of the other,
though worn by suffering--all depicted with such marvelous exactness,
impressed me for the moment with a feeling that I was witnessing the
reality of this shocking scene.
Antwerp justly boasts of many public edifices of great beauty and
magnificence. The royal palace, erected over one hundred years ago in
fantastic pompadour style, drew our attention, though perhaps failed to
excite our admiration. This city has a splendid theatre, its interior
handsomely decorated with paintings, and busts in marble and bronze of
eminent composers and dramatists, among whom are Shakespeare, Moliere,
Euripides and Mozart. The Zoological Garden contains a fine collection
of animals, which, with its garden and beautiful park, is considered
one of the best in Europe.
We left Antwerp the following afternoon and arrived at Brussels in the
evening. Brussels is the capital of Belgium, the residence of the royal
family, and contains a population of one hundred and seventy thousand,
only six thousand of whom are Protestants. This city has many points
of resemblance to Paris, the capital of France, so much so that it is
frequently called "Paris in miniature." The majority of the citizens
speak the French language; the Flemish is chiefly spoken by the lower
classes.
As usual on entering Catholic cities, we paid our respects to its
celebrated cathedrals, of which St. Nicholas is the most prominent.
It is of Gothic structure, and presents an imposing appearance.
Its interior embraces characteristics similar to other Catholic
churches--images, elaborate carvings, fine marble statuary, sumptuous
gildings, magnificent decorations, together with paintings in almost
endless variety. Some have rather singular representations, such, for
instance, as the "Expulsion from Paradise," done in carved wood, with
great skill and at vast labor and expense. Among the beautiful foliage
are seen all kinds of animals--a bear, dog, cat, eagle, vulture,
peacock, owl, dove, squirrel, and lastly, an ape eating an apple. These
are surmounted by the Virgin with the Child, who crushes the head of
the serpent with the cross.
In one of these churches, an old lady was holding a stock of wax
candles, some of which she insisted on our purchasing, that we might
burn them for the benefit of our dead friends. In another we saw a
gentleman of respectable appearance doing penance in a prostrate
position upon the floor of the church, before the cross and image of
the Savior, kissing the stone pavement with great fervor, and wetting
it with tears. I imagined he might have committed in secret some great
crime; I may have failed to do him justice.
In one of these cathedrals we witnessed a Catholic wedding, which was
quite amusing--the bride and groom were kneeling before the altar, a
priest with sacerdotal robes, with open Bible, wax tapers, and three
silver goblets of wine, was performing the marriage ceremony, reading
a sentence or two, repeatedly kissing the cross and quaffing the
wine, waving his hands and pronouncing Latin, while in the background
a little boy in a white gown, walking to and fro, swinging slowly,
then rapidly, a small censer with smoking incense, accompanied with
an occasional jingle of a bell. In the evening we attended the Royal
Operatic Theatre, the most noted in Brussels, and the finest and
most richly finished and artistically decorated I ever visited. The
parquette was furnished with cushioned chairs, elegantly made, and
sufficient room to pass without annoyance. Its sixtiered gallery, with
elaborate carvings and splendid gildings, presented a grand appearance.
I think the performances could not be surpassed.
We visited the National Palace, where the sessions of the Senate and
Representatives are held, and were conducted through the various
apartments. The Senate Hall is embellished with fifteen portraits of
celebrated Belgians. These two halls had the appearance of comfort and
convenience, rather than display.
The Hotel de Ville, the city hall, the most remarkable edifice in
Brussels, has a graceful tower of three hundred and eighty-six feet in
height; on the summit of its spire is a figure in bronze of Michael,
the Archangel, eighteen feet high. A portion of this hall is occupied
by the city council of Brussels, comprising thirty-one members. We
noticed some magnificent tapestry four hundred years old, and a basin
with the keys of the city made of beaten gold and silver two hundred
years ago. In front of this hall stands a magnificent monument of
Counts Egmont and Horn, who were unjustly executed by the notorious
Duke of Alva, June 5th, 1568. A portion of this colossal structure
contains figures in bronze representing the two counts on their way to
execution. In the Hotel de Ville, we ascended by a winding staircase
to the summit of its lofty tower, where we enjoyed a magnificent view
of Brussels and its environs. Also, from this lofty height may be seen
in the distance the "Lion Monument," a vast mound upon the battlefield
of Waterloo, erected in commemoration of the great victory won by the
allied powers under the Duke of Wellington.
We visited that memorable locality about ten miles distant from
Brussels, spending several hours walking over the fields, still bearing
traces of those bloody struggles, examining many points and localities
of intense interest; but I will defer this subject for the present.
We left Brussels, Wednesday, December 11, and arrived in Paris the same
evening.
Lorenzo Snow.
LETTER III.
Paris.--Visit to Versailles.--Bois de Boulogne.--St. Cloud.--Attend the
National Assembly.--French glory.--Interview with the President of the
French Republic.--Paris _Register_ speaks of the Party.
Paris, France, December 18th, 1872.
_Editor Deseret News_:
We are pleasantly situated at the "Hotel de Petersbourg," in the
beautiful city of Paris, the capital of lovely, sunny France. Too much
cannot be said of the beauty and magnificence of this wonderful city.
I will not attempt, at present, to describe all that we have seen of
its beauty and grandeur. I have just returned from promenading some of
its principal streets, viewing it in its evening splendor, lit up with
thirty-two thousand gas burners.
Yesterday we visited Versailles, some twelve miles from Paris. We
passed through the forest of Boulogne, admiring the delightful
picturesque scenery bordering on the river Seine, passing through a
variegated country until we reached St. Cloud, where we alighted from
our carriages and walked over the ground where the Prussians planted
their artillery to bombard the city of Paris, and where many thousands
were slain during the late bloody contest. Every building, except
the Cathedral, had been demolished; this was preserved by a body
of Prussians, who had been stationed there through the reverential
feeling, perhaps, of the Prussian Emperor.
At Versailles we enjoyed magnificent views, comprising objects of
almost infinite variety. To me, however, our visit to the National
Assembly, then in session, was the most interesting, with the
exception of our interview with Monsieur Thiers, the president of
the French republic, which I will describe presently. The National
Assembly comprises seven hundred and fifty-eight deputies, elected by
their respective districts in 1871, constituting only a provisional
government. How long they may feel disposed to hold office, or the
vacillating minds of the people to sustain them, the future will
reveal. The political prospects of France are shrouded in fearful
mystery--at any moment the most terrible scenes may burst upon the
country. The National Assembly convenes in that portion of the palace
formerly occupied as a theatre, when Versailles was reveling in
regal pride and splendor. We owed the privilege of admission to the
president of the Assembly, through the request of Monsieur Bartholemy
St. Hilaire, private secretary to M. Thiers, to whom we had been
introduced by Major Lorin. We were accorded seats appropriated to
foreign diplomats and embassadors, an honor we appreciated and duly
acknowledged. The grave, sedate, dignified, bald-headed appearance of
this great body of French deputies was rather prepossessing. We spent
about an hour in listening to their eloquent and animated speeches.
I have alluded to Major Lorin--this gentleman distinguished himself
as a French officer in the battles fought against Austria and Italy,
also in many bloody conflicts between the French and Prussians. In the
late war he commanded about three thousand men. On the establishment
of peace, only forty-seven remained; the others were either killed or
disabled. The Major was covered with French glory--scars and bruises.
We had formed an acquaintance with this gentleman, and while visiting
Versailles he proposed to present our cards to President Thiers and
procure us an audience. We accepted the proposition and drove up to the
palace of M. Thiers. In a few minutes the Major returned, accompanied
by the president's private secretary, who politely stated that M.
Thiers would be happy to receive President Smith and party at half-past
9 p. m.
We repaired to the palace at the hour designated. M. Bartholemy St.
Hilaire conducted us to the reception hall and introduced us to
President Thiers. He was attended by a number of distinguished French
gentlemen, principally his cabinet ministers, anxious and curious to
witness the interview between the president of the French republic
and the delegation from the Latter-day Saints in Utah _en route_ to
Palestine. Mr. Thiers' personal appearance impressed us favorably--his
dignified bearing, plain and unassuming manners, with a countenance
glowing with benevolence and patriotism. He possesses the reputation of
being a good English scholar, but I presume the vast crowd of business
of late years has allowed him no time to practise the English language,
therefore the conversation was carried on in French, Major Lorin acting
as interpreter.
After the introduction, President Smith acknowledged our appreciation
of the honor accorded the party, in granting this interview--that we
were from Utah, _en route_ to Palestine, to study the Bible in the land
where its recorded events had chiefly transpired--that we sympathized
with the president of the French republic in the great cause he is
laboring to establish--a republic in France, and had sought this
occasion of expressing our sentiments personally.
Upon this being interpreted, President Thiers replied that he was
gratified with such assurances from Americans, and pleased to meet this
delegation from Utah, and that he was familiar with the history of our
people. We replied that we had been twenty-five years laboring under
every possible disadvantage to colonize that portion of our American
desert, in order to make a destitute people great and prosperous; that
in connection with other objects relating to our tour, we wished to
gather information and statistics of the progress of older nations,
that through their experience we might more successfully benefit and
improve the people we represented.
President Thiers replied that while we remained in France, he should
take pleasure in rendering any assistance we might require in the
promotion of this object.
We acknowledged our appreciation of this courtesy, and thanked him for
favors extended to American citizens since the establishment of the
French republic.
President Thiers replied that he hoped the peaceful relations now
existing between the two governments would never be interrupted.
The interview closed in the following words by President Smith:
"President Thiers, God bless you."
These words inspired M. Thiers with renewed interest; he requested the
Major to give a literal translation of that expression. The honesty,
simplicity and earnestness in which this sentiment was delivered by
President Smith, not only excited pleasurable emotions in M. Thiers,
but also were visible in the features of his ministers who were now
crowding around.
President Thiers cordially shook hands with each one of our party. We
then repaired to our carriages and returned to Paris the same evening.
Shortly after this interview, the circumstance of our reception was
published in several of the French papers. Please accept my regards for
yourself and family. Lorenzo Snow.
From the Paris "American Register."
"On Tuesday last, the Mormon party, now passing through Europe on their
way to Palestine, visited Versailles and were received in the evening
by M. Thiers. The Hon. George A. Smith, leader of the party, gave
the president a curious and interesting account of Mormonism in the
United States, and stated that the sect which he represents is already
composed of about one hundred and twenty thousand members. Mr. Smith
and his party started for Lyons on Thursday, and leave that city to-day
for Marseilles, where, after remaining a couple of days, they will
proceed to Nice.
"Although the Mormon party at present in France disclaim any other
motive than that of pleasure and instruction for their proposed visit
to Palestine, it is asserted by some who profess to be well informed,
that they are going there to explore the ground for the foundation of a
new Jerusalem. We see nothing improbable in this assumption. The people
who created a paradise in Salt Lake may well aim at founding an Eden in
the land of Prophets.
"The long interview which the Mormon Elders had with the French
president, the other day, has, we are informed, seriously disquieted
Madame Thiers. Surely at the president's advanced time of life there is
no fear of his conversion to Mormon doctrines. As Thiers was born April
16, 1797, and, consequently, will be seventy-six years of age in April
next, we sincerely sympathize with Madame in her alarm."
LETTER IV.
From Paris to Lyons.--Burgundy and its wines.--Famous towns.--Lyons
and its silk industries.--Weaving portraits.--Ampitheatre
eighteen hundred years old.--Olive plantations and vineyards.--At
Venice.--Genoa.--Statue of Columbus.--The cathedral of St.
Lorenzo.--Chain that bound John the Baptist.--Turin.--Milan.--Cathedral
of our blessed Lady, the grandest religious edifice in the
world.--Attend high mass.--Arrive in Venice, the City of Waters.
Marseilles, France, December 23, 1872.
_Editor Deseret News_:
Our route from Paris to Lyons lies through a beautiful and interesting
country, abounding in orchards and vineyards, many of the latter being
very extensive. The district of Burgundy, so much celebrated for its
excellent wines, embraces an area of two hundred and twenty-four
thousand two hundred and twenty-three acres, all in vineyards. These
vines are trained upon stakes three feet high, being more thickly set
than is commonly practised elsewhere. Their yield differs according
to the soil and quality of the vine, some yielding as high as one
thousand gallons per acre. Immense quantities of these Burgundy wines
are transported annually to foreign countries. They are highly prized
by amateur consumers, being considered superior to most other wines
in point of flavor and delicious quality. The price of the genuine
Burgundy wines where they are manufactured will average about one
dollar per gallon.
We passed many towns famous in history for memorable battles fought in
their vicinity, or stirring events which have occurred within their
walls. Fontainbleau, about forty miles from Paris, is remarkable for
the great battle fought in February, 1814, in which the allies were
signally beaten by the French under Napoleon. We stopped but a short
time at this place.
We passed many elegant mansions, beautiful country seats, chateaux
and towns--some of the latter very antique, embracing ancient castles
and fortifications crumbling to pieces, or lying in ruins. We also
passed many lovely vales, encircled in the distance by low ranges of
picturesque hills covered with vineyards and olive orchards, the latter
still clothed in rich green foliage. Among these romantic hills, here
and there a beautiful villa appears, with its white chapel surmounted
by a modest, graceful tower.
We reached Lyons on the evening of the 19th, distant from Paris
about three hundred miles. Lyons is the second city in France, with
a population of about three hundred and twenty-five thousand. It is
celebrated for its silk manufactures; in quality and variety they
are considered superior to any others in the world. In the city and
vicinity there are over thirty-one thousand silk looms. Immense
numbers of laborers are employed in the business. We visited some of
these establishments and were amused and interested in witnessing the
skill and ingenuity manifested. Portraits, groups of people, and also
landscapes, were woven in silk with as much accuracy in delineation
of face and figure as when done by the most skilful artist with paint
and brush. We purchased a few specimens of their weaving, including
exquisitely beautiful handkerchiefs, portraits of eminent personages,
George Washington, M. Thiers and other distinguished individuals. We
showed the proprietor of the establishment a photograph of President
Brigham Young, and on his proffering to weave the portrait, President
Smith made arrangement to have a supply in readiness on our return from
Palestine.
We engaged carriages and drove through the principal streets, park
and suburbs of the city. We saw remains of walls, fortifications and
buildings constructed in past ages by the Romans, together with other
objects of curiosity and historic interest. We had a splendid view of
the hills of Savoy and also of Mont Blanc, one hundred miles distant,
clothed in perpetual snows.
We arrived in Marseilles, about two hundred miles distant from Lyons,
in the evening, stopping at the Hotel du Louvre et de le Paix--a
very fine establishment. This city contains three hundred thousand
inhabitants, and is considered the finest seaport in France. Its harbor
is formed by an inlet of the sea, extending into the heart of the
city, covering an extent of seventy acres, and will accommodate one
thousand two hundred vessels. We found numerous objects of interest and
attraction. No finer streets can be found in any city of Europe--they
are broad and many of them bordered with ornamental trees. The park
is extensive and the public gardens and promenades are romantic and
enchanting to lovers of cultivated nature. To fully enjoy the smiling
sun and balmy air of beautiful Marseilles, and also to avail ourselves
of an opportunity for gratifying curiosity and gaining information,
we perambulated the city. The gardens and parks were ornamented with
rich and costly shrubbery, grass plats tastefully encircled with
flowers, gravel walks with beautiful borders, ornamental trees trimmed
into varied forms, flowers exhaling sweet fragrance around grottos,
fountains and cascades.
On one side, at a short distance from the city, lies a vast landscape
commencing with rising hills covered with terraces of equal width,
planted with olive trees and vineyards, rising in regular gradation one
above another, like rows of seats in an amphitheatre, beautiful country
seats here and there dotting the summits of these hills, fronted with
gardens and groves of orange and lemon tree, loaded with golden fruit.
These ranges of hills, continuing one above another, roll away in the
distance into lofty mountains, and still onward until their towering
peaks are mantled in perpetual snow. Before us, stretching far off
beneath the encircling horizon, in calm and sweet repose, slumber the
blue waters of the Mediterranean, whose broad bosom is whitened with
sails from every land and clime.
We shall long remember our stroll through the parks and gardens of
Marseilles, and along the sunny shore of the beautiful Mediterranean.
Venice, Italy, January 4th, 1873.
We left Marseilles by train, December 24th, continuing our route
along the shores of the Mediterranean. Some portion of the country is
rough and broken into hills and low mountains, generally covered with
vineyards and olive orchards. The soil appears light, yet productive.
Much labor has been required to bring this district to its present
flourishing condition. A plan was adopted widely differing from that in
Holland, which is a system of terracing, accomplished by removing the
stones and rocks off the acclivities, and building them up into walls
from three to eight feet in height, laterally, so as to form a level,
varying in width from six feet and upward, according to the steepness
of the hill to be terraced. Soil is gathered upon these levels, in
which the vine, the olive, lemon and orange are planted. Mountains from
base to summit, adorned by these terraces, like rows of seats rising in
systematic order one above another, form a pleasant picture, frequently
lovely and fascinating.
We arrived at Nice in the evening. It is a beautiful city, romantically
located among the hills bordering the sea. It forms a fashionable
resort for people of wealth in quest of pleasure, and invalids in
search of health. The environs afford many attractions in promenades,
extensive views, luxuriant vegetation, gardens and sloping hills
covered with vines, olives, aloes, cypress, palm, together with lemon
and orange trees loaded with golden fruit.
After spending two days pleasantly in Nice we left for Genoa, Italy,
where we arrived on Friday, the 27th of December. We felt to award a
tribute of respect to Genoa, as the birthplace of Christopher Columbus.
One of these squares is ornamented with a fine monumental structure
erected to his memory.
Sunday morning we attended Catholic service in the Cathedral St.
Lorenzo, the most celebrated church in the city. During the worship an
officer in uniform waited upon us through the building, pointing out
and explaining various objects of interest. He conducted us to a small
chapel enclosed by an ornamental paling, and showed us the "indentical"
chain with which John the Baptist was bound while in prison previous
to being beheaded, and also his ashes enclosed in a silver urn. Any
doubts we entertained of the genuineness of these articles we refrained
from expressing. No woman is allowed to enter this chapel of St. John,
except one day in the year, because one of her sex instigated the death
of this saint. My sister, who happened to be the only lady of the party
present, bore this interdiction with her characterestic grace and
fortitude.
Monday, 30th, we left for Turin. Some portions of this route were very
attractive, in fact, I do not recollect ever having seen a landscape
more lovely and enchanting. We arrived in Turin in the afternoon, and
left the following morning for Milan, which we reached in the evening
of the 31st of December.
Milan contains two hundred and seventy thousand inhabitants. It is
situated on the river Alono, in the centre of the great plain of
Lombardy, and is one of the richest and most beautiful cities of Italy;
the streets regular, broad and well paved, the dwellings elegantly
built, and commodious. The city embraces capacious squares, promenades
and gardens, tastefully laid out and ornamented with fountains and
statuary. The Arcade is a splendid structure; we visited it in the
evening when lit up with its immense number of gas burners. An English
company commenced this structure with speculative views, but after
having sunk (so we were informed) nearly one million of dollars,
relinquished the project, after which it became government property.
Milan is celebrated for its cathedral, built in honor of "Our
Blessed Lady." Galeazo Visconti, Duke of Milan, owing to some cause
which we failed to ascertain, made a solemn vow to build a rich and
magnificent temple in honor of the Virgin Mary, and was joined in this
undertaking by men of wealth and rank, with the intention of making
it the most costly and beautiful ecclesiastical edifice in the world.
For this purpose immense sums from time to time were contributed by
distinguished individuals--single donations frequently reaching as high
as from fifty to one hundred thousand dollars. Kings, popes, emperors
and empresses bestowed their princely gifts; one Italian gentleman
contributed thirty-five thousand gold ducats. The founder donated,
together with other liberal gifts, marble at the quarry, sufficient to
build the entire edifice.
This temple has been nearly five hundred years in course of
construction, and will probably require another century for its
completion. In gazing with astonishment upon the forest of pinnacles
and thousands of marble statues, together with millions of rich
ornaments and endless works of carved marble, the great tower, with
its lofty summit crowned with a colossal statue, one would fail to
notice any deficiency or lack in its completion; yet millions are still
required to carry out, in full, the magnificent design of the great
artist who planned this astonishing specimen of Gothic architecture.
Up to the present about one hundred and ten millions of dollars have
been expended, independent of the marble donated at the quarry. The
walls are eight feet in thickness, built of fine white marble from
Mount Gandoglia. The floors are paved with marble--the roof is formed
with marble blocks united by cement. The length of the cathedral is
four hundred and ninety feet, its breadth two hundred and ninety-eight,
and its height to the summit of the tower is four hundred feet. It is
built in the form of a Latin cross, divided into five naves, supported
by fifty-two pillars, each about seventy-two feet high, and twenty-four
feet in circumference. The interior of the building is decorated with
fret-work, carving, statuary and numerous paintings, the production of
the most skilful artists of Europe. The exterior is covered with marble
statuary, representing some of the most remarkable events in biblical
history--Moses rescued from the Nile by Pharaoh's daughter, Joseph's
temptation in the house of Potiphar, the angel driving out Adam and
Eve from Eden, Daniel in the den of lions, God appearing to Moses in a
burning bush, David holding the head of Goliath, Sampson suffocating
the lions, and carrying on his shoulders the gates of Gaza. Fifty-two
representations of this character adorn the front of this temple.
Writers differ in their statements of the number of the statues which
ornament this building. In a work published by a Mr. Prioli at Milan,
the present number is estimated at seven thousand, and additions are
constantly being made. The most celebrated artists in Europe have been
employed, and are still engaged in embellishing this edifice.
We ascended by a flight of five hundred and twelve steps to the
platform of the great cupola, where we enjoyed a magnificent view of
the city, and the immense plains of Lombardy, chequered with towns
and villages, stretching far away till lost beneath the surrounding
girdle of snow-capped mountains. From this lovely picture of nature,
we turn to gaze on the countless objects of beauty and splendor, the
productions of the highest efforts of human genius, which constitute
the exterior decorations of this extraordinary temple. Before us stood
a forest of towers--one hundred and thirty-six in number, each adorned
with twenty-five marble figures, life size, and thousands of ornamental
objects in white marble, imparting to the scene richness, beauty and
grandeur. We descended to the interior of the building, where, among
the numerous objects which attracted our attention, was a marble
statue, life size, representing St. Bartholomew flayed alive carrying
his skin upon his shoulders. The artist was eight years engaged in this
work, which is much admired as a specimen of the extraordinary skill
and anatomical knowledge of the sculptor. In his right hand the saint
holds a figure representing the knife with which his skin was taken
off. The veins, arteries and muscles, together with the whole surface
of the body and limbs in a flayed condition, are delineated by the hand
of the sculptor with marvelous exactness.
We attended high mass in this church New Year's morning, the Archbishop
of Milan presiding. But I must hasten to a close.
On the morning of the 3d of January we left Milan and arrived here, in
Venice, the city of waters, the following evening.
Lorenzo Snow.
LETTER V.
Rome and its population.--The seven hills.--Excavations by
the Government.--The Forum.--Antony and Julius Caesar.--Where
Virginius stabbed his daughter.--Famous obelisks.--Temple of
Venus.--The Tarpeian Rock.--St. Peter's.--Call on the American
minister.--The Vatican.--Michael Angelo.--Paul III.--Appian
Way.--Seneca.--Baths.--Footprints of the Savior.--Naples.--Mount
Vesuvius.
Rome, Italy, January 21st, 1873.
_Editor Deseret News_:
We arrived here on the fifteenth inst. This city is built on both
sides of the Tiber, about fifteen miles from where it empties into the
Mediterranean. In 1867 it contained two hundred and fifteen thousand
inhabitants, of whom six thousand were clergymen, five thousand nuns,
four thousand five hundred Jews, four hundred and fifty Protestants,
seven thousand three hundred soldiers, and, in the winter season, about
twenty-five thousand visitors. In the day of its greatest prosperity,
Rome exceeded two millions; in the middle of the fourteenth century,
it had been reduced by disease, poverty and war to less than twenty
thousand people. What is now understood as modern Rome is surrounded
by a wall twelve miles in length, about fifty feet high, and built of
brick.
The famous "seven hills," on which Rome was principally erected, are
now measurably uninhabited. A few churches, monasteries, nunneries, old
farm-houses, gardens and vineyards occupy these hills which formerly
astonished the world with marble edifices, palaces and magnificent
temples; much of this glory and grandeur now lie from ten to twenty
feet beneath the surface of the ground. Napoleon III purchased
extensive grounds on which a portion of ancient Rome was built, and
expended large sums in excavations to aid him in his "History of the
Caesars." He made many important discoveries, several of which we saw
while exploring the ruins--portions of streets, temples, beautiful
edifices, numerous statues, marble and granite columns, which were
found buried twenty feet underground. The Italian government is now
prosecuting the work commenced by Napoleon, constantly bringing to
light Roman history and its antiquities. We saw sufficient of the
remains of the ancient Roman forum, the place of popular assemblies,
where the orators addressed the people, to satisfy us of its former
grandeur and magnificence. We stood where Antony, in his artful speech
over the murdered body of Julius Caesar, aroused the indignation of
the populace against the conspirators; and where Virginius procured
his knife and killed his daughter to preserve her from slavery. We
also walked over the ground where the Sabine women rushed frantically
between their husbands and fathers to prevent the impending battle.
In the Piazza di St. Pietro, we saw a famous obelisk, which was
brought to Rome by the Emperor Caligula and placed in the Vatican
Circus. It was removed in 1585 and erected on its present site under
the superintendency of Dominica Fontana. This huge monument weighs
nearly one million of pounds. It is said that Fontana, in constructing
his machines, had neglected to make allowance for the tension of the
ropes, produced by the immense weight, and that at the critical moment,
though the spectators had been prohibited, under penalty of death,
from speaking or shouting, one of the eight hundred workmen cried out,
"_Aqua alle funi!" i. e_., "Water on the ropes," thus solving the
difficulty. His descendants were granted important privileges for this
hazardous interference. Another obelisk we noticed, called the "Obelisk
of the Lateran," of red granite, covered with hieroglyphics, which was
brought from Alexandria to the mouth of the Tiber in a vessel of three
hundred oars. It is supposed to have been standing in Egypt anterior
to the exodus of the Israelites, and probably is four thousand years
old. It is one hundred and forty-one feet high, and weighs nearly four
hundred and fifty-five tons.
Some portions of the celebrated Temple of Venus and Rome still remain.
It was built by the Emperor Hadrian, after his own design. When it was
finished, he asked Appolodoros what he thought of it. The architect
replied that it was very good for an emperor, whereupon Hadrian ordered
him to be beheaded.
We went to the "Tarpeian Rock," the precipice from which criminals were
thrown down; there is considerable rubbish beneath, but it is still
sufficiently lofty to insure unpleasant results of a fall from its
summit.
There are very few monuments that exhibit more effectually the splendor
of ancient Rome than the remains of the celebrated Colosseum. It was
commenced by Vespasian and completed by Titus, after his conquest of
the Jews. It is said that sixty thousand Jews were engaged ten years
in this gigantic antique structure. After it had fallen into decay,
it was used as a quarry from which were built churches and palaces
until, by its consecration as holy ground, on account of the number of
martyrs supposed to have suffered within its walls, this vandalism was
discontinued. It seated eighty-seven thousand people, with standing
room for twenty thousand. Its inauguration, Anno Domini 81, continued
one hundred days, during which five thousand wild beasts and ten
thousand captives were slain. Its circumference is one thousand six
hundred and forty-one feet, the height of the outer wall one hundred
and fifty-seven, the length of the arena two hundred and seventy-eight,
and its width one hundred and seventy-seven feet, the whole superficial
area, six acres. In the museum of the Capitol, we saw a striking
representation of the character of the former scenes enacted in the
arena of this amphitheatre. A marble statue of a dying gladiator--a
wonderful specimen of the perfection to which the art of sculpture had
attained. The figure is in a reclining posture, a deep cut in the side,
the blood trickling down, a broken sword lying beside it, the muscles
gradually relaxing and strength failing, the lineaments of the face
expressing intense anguish, yet determined resolution to conceal pain,
as the poet says:
"I see before me the gladiator lie;
He leans upon his hand--his manly brow
Consents to death, but conquers agony
And his drooped head sinks gradually low,
And through his side, the last drops, ebbing slow,
From the red gash fall heavy one by one,
Like the first of a thunder shower; and now
The arena swims around him; he is gone
Ere ceased the inhuman shout which hailed
The wretch who won."
We visited several celebrated Roman cathedrals, St. Peter's first and
foremost. The area of this church is two hundred and twelve thousand
three hundred and twenty-one square feet, its exterior six hundred and
fifty-one feet in length, its height from the pavement to the cross
on the summit is four hundred and forty-eight feet. It contains two
hundred and ninety windows, three hundred and ninety statues, forty-six
altars and seven hundred and forty-eight columns. The dome rises three
hundred and eighteen feet above the roof, and has a circumference of
six hundred and fifty-two feet. In the seventeenth century the dome
showed signs of giving way, and was strengthened by means of huge iron
hoops.
We ascend to the lantern by an easy stairway, where we have a
magnificent view of the surrounding country, extending to the blue
waters of the Mediterranean. The ball on the summit affords room for
sixteen persons, though from the ground it appears little larger than a
man's hat.
Previous to the Papal states being incorporated into the Italian
kingdom, it was customary, on certain days in the year, to present
from this church a grand spectacle--a vast illumination of the dome,
facade and colonnades by four thousand four hundred lamps. It is
thought that this great display will never be repeated. The Pope has
remained singularly quiet, refusing to officiate at public festivals
since Victor took possession of Rome. Some attribute this inaction to a
design to awaken sympathy and create a stirring interest in his favor
with Catholic communities throughout the world. We were informed to-day
that the Pope had just received a delegation of distinguished gentlemen
from England, representing a large body of men, who had solemnly
engaged to render whatever assistance he might require.
We called at the American minister's to-day; not finding him at
home, we left our cards with his secretary. We shall probably have
an interview with him before leaving Rome. Our tour under Mr. Cook's
management thus far has proved perfectly satisfactory. Our railroad
transits have invariably been first-class, and our hotels generally. We
remain here three days, then go to Naples.
Naples, Italy, January 28th, 1873.
We were much interested in the Vatican Palace, the residence of the
Pope. It embraces an immense area--one thousand one hundred and
fifty-one feet in length, seven hundred and sixty-seven in breadth,
eight grand staircases, two hundred smaller ones, twenty courts and
four thousand four hundred and twenty-two apartments. It contains a
vast collection of the most celebrated marble statuary and paintings in
the world.
The ingenuity and wealth of the Roman pontiffs during many centuries
have been employed to make this palace suitable for the accommodation
of the representatives of St. Peter in regard to splendor and
magnificence.
The distinguished artist, Michael Angelo, was engaged a number of
years in decorating some of these apartments with his best paintings.
One of these we noticed in particular was a large picture in fresco,
covering one end of a lofty room, fifty feet wide; it is called "The
Last Judgment." Michael Angelo labored nearly eight years upon this
work. Pope Paul III manifested much interest in this painting, and,
to encourage the artist, went to his studio, accompanied by ten of
his cardinals, which was considered an extraordinary condescension
on the part of "His Holiness." He wished the picture painted in oil,
but the artist would not consent, declaring that "oil painting was an
occupation fit only for women and idlers and such as had plenty of
time to throw away." In the upper part of the picture is the Savior
seated in the act of pronouncing judgment, On one side are a multitude
of saints and patriarchs, on the other the martyrs with the symbols of
their sufferings--St. Catherine with the wheel on which she was broken,
St. Sebastian with the arrows by which he was killed, St. Bartholomew
carrying his skin, etc. Below is a group of angels sounding the last
trumpet and carrying the books of judgment. On the left is represented
the condition of the damned--the demons are seen coming out of the pit
to seize them as they struggle to escape, their features expressing the
utmost despair, at the same time exhibiting passions of rage, anguish
and defiance. On the opposite side the saints are rising slowly from
their graves, aided by angels to ascend into the regions of the blest.
Paul III was displeased with the nudity of the figures and intended
to destroy the whole. On hearing this objection of the Pope, Michael
Angelo said, "Tell the Pope that this is but a small affair, and easy
to be remedied: let him reform the world, and pictures will reform
themselves." The Pope engaged Volterra to cover the most conspicuous
figures with drapery, which caused the Italians to nickname him
Braghettone, that is, the breeches maker. Michael Angelo was obliged
to submit to the Pope's will, but revenged himself in the following
style upon Biagio, master of ceremonies, who suggested the indelicacy
of the figures. He represented him in one of the angles of the picture
standing in hell as Midas, with ass's ears, his body encircled by a
serpent. Biagio requested the Pope to compel the artist to expunge this
figure, but he declared he could only release from purgatory.
We made an excursion of several miles in the country, traveling on the
celebrated Appian Way, a road built in ancient times by the Romans.
They were accustomed to bury their dead beyond the city along the sides
of this thoroughfare, for which purpose thousands of monuments were
built, thickly studding both sides of the way--a distance of about
thirteen miles--many of them massive and lofty, built of brick, stone
and concrete, with an external covering of polished marble, ornamented
with beautiful statuary, and otherwise magnificently decorated. Among
the monumental ruins is one said to contain the remains of Seneca,
the great moralist, one of my favorite authors, who unjustly suffered
death by the order of Nero. His statue in marble, like a protecting
angel, still remains over the crumbling ruins of his monument, and even
should this statue also disappear, the elevating moral sentiments he
inculcated cannot perish, but will ever perpetuate his memory.
We saw a spacious enclosure, where the Romans practised burning the
bodies of the dead, in order to place their ashes in urns or vases,
to be deposited in tombs. We were shown the remains of the bathing
establishment of Caracalla, constructed somewhat on the principle of
the Turkish bath. It embraced an area of about forty acres, most of
which had been covered with arched mason work, now fallen down. A large
portion of the wall still remains; some fifteen feet depth of earth has
been excavated to show its original plan and grandeur.
We were conducted into a small chapel, held in high esteem by the
Catholics through a tradition that Peter, when imprisoned in Rome,
escaped in the night, and upon reaching this point the Savior met him
and told him he was going to Rome to be crucified the second time,
whereupon Peter, taking the hint, returned to the city and suffered
crucifixion. On the floor of this church is a marble slab with a
fac-simile of the footmark of the Savior, which is pretended to have
been made upon the pavement on which he stood.
Rome possesses many obelisks and monumental columns; one, erected by
Bernini, formed of red granite covered with hieroglyphics, stands in
the Piazza Navona, in the midst of a fountain, on rock work forty feet
high; the height of the obelisk is fifty-one feet. I was amused with an
anecdote connected with this monument, related by our guide. Bernini
had bitter enemies, who insisted that the foundation was inadequate to
the support of the column. With the greatest difficulty, overcoming the
immense influence against him, he succeeded in erecting the obelisk.
One day his enemies raised a tremendous excitement by reporting that
the foundation was giving way. The square was soon filled with an
enthusiastic populace, every moment expecting the superstructure to go
down. Bernini, on hearing this state of things, proceeded to the square
in his carriage; arriving in front of his work, disregarding the hisses
and groans of the people, he ordered ladders, connected them together,
and ascending to the top of the obelisk, drew from his pocket a ball of
twine, unwound until he had four strings, each of sufficient length to
reach across the square, and fastened one end of each to the top of the
column. He then descended--gathered the opposite ends, walked around
the square, fastening each end at opposite points to the buildings,
by means of small nails driven into the plaster of the walls. He then
coolly stepped into his carriage and drove home. Before he left the
square, however, the people, comprehending the joke, honored him with
thundering applause, to the great discomfiture of his enemies.
The Forum of Trajan has been partially uncovered, revealing statues,
broken columns and many other relics in great numbers. One obelisk, one
hundred and twenty-four feet high, still stands in this forum, formerly
surmounted by a colossal statue of the Emperor Trajan, now by that of
St. Peter. It is covered with upwards of two thousand five hundred
human figures, averaging two feet in length. In this forum it is said
that Constantine, in the presence of the dignitaries of the empire, and
a vast assemblage of the people, renounced Paganism and declared for
Christianity; that upon this announcement the Christians present raised
a loud and prolonged shout of five minutes' continuation. Some Pagan
officers, who were present, looked glum and sullen. The Christians,
noticing this, and firing up under the excitement, motioned that every
Pagan should be compelled to follow the example of their illustrious
emperor.
There has been a slight eruption of Vesuvius in the last twenty-four
hours; flames and red-hot stones were projected to a great height all
day yesterday, and windows at Castellamare were shaken out by the
earth's vibratory motion. There is an unusual volume of smoke issuing
from the mouth of the crater, and the instruments at the observatory
indicate the presence of strong electrical currents.
Lorenzo Snow.
LETTER VI.
Naples.--Beggars.--Pompeii.--Earthquakes.--Herculanaeum.--Museum.--"Secret
Cabinet."--Ascent of Vesuvius.--Pliny the Elder.--From Naples to
Brindisi.--Hardworking women.--Corfu.--Religious service in a
Greek cathedral.--Take steamer for Alexandria.--Egypt.--Turkish
mosques.--Copts.--Mohammedan schools.--Male and Female attire.--Dervish
worship.--Suez.--Red Sea.
Alexandria, Egypt, February 6th, 1873.
_Editor Deseret News_:
The city of Naples contains a population of over half a million. It
is beautifully situated on the slope of a range of hills bordering
the Mediterranean. Including its suburbs, it is nearly eighteen miles
in circumference. The streets, like those of most other cities of
Europe, are generally narrow, though some are wide, handsomely paved,
and bordered with elegant buildings, five, six and seven stories high.
We noticed in many parts of the city that the lower stories are built
without windows; air and light being admitted through the door in
front, which is generally large, always standing open, except at night,
when the occupants retire to rest. These apartments were swarming
with laboring people, many of whom appeared in great poverty. We have
visited no city where so much begging is practised as in Naples. In
many places beggars thronged us by multitudes.
We visited Pompeii, distant a few miles from Naples, and spent several
hours in walking through the streets and examining its interesting and
mournful ruins. In the year A. D. 63, the city was partially destroyed
by an earthquake. The inhabitants abandoned the town, but returned
directly afterwards, and it had regained nearly all its splendor,
when, at midday, on November 23d, A. D. 79, the eruption destined to
destroy it commenced. The wooden roofs of the houses were either set
on fire or broken in by the weight of the matter deposited on them. It
is thought that, inasmuch as but few skeletons have been found, nearly
all of the inhabitants were enabled to escape. They returned soon
afterwards to dig the soil in which the town was buried, and carried
away the valuables left in their houses, and some precious objects
from the public edifices. The villa of Diomede is one of the largest
establishments. The remains of seventeen persons were found there
during the excavations. Some of them were shown us at Pompeii, others
we saw in the National Museum in Naples. Close by the garden gate of
this villa were discovered the skeletons of the proprietor and his
attendant--one holding in his hand the keys of the villa; the other, a
purse which contained one hundred gold and silver coins.
Quite a large portion of the city is now excavated, exhibiting streets,
private buildings, temples, theatres, fountains, wine cellars, public
squares, etc., in a wonderful state of preservation. The whole
resembles a large, magnificent town, the inhabitants of which had
suddenly fled, or gone out on a general excursion.
In returning to Naples we stopped a short time in Herculanaeum, which
contains some objects of interest. The ancient theatre has been
excavated, which appears to have consisted of nineteen tiers of seats,
sufficient to accommodate ten thousand persons; its orchestra is
twenty-six feet below the surface of the present town, Resina.
The next day we spent a few hours very agreeably in the celebrated
Museum of Naples, which contains a vast number of apartments richly
stored with relics of ancient art and science, and constitutes a
general depot of the two ancient cities, Pompeii and Herculanaeum, and
other localities of Naples and Sicily. The "Secret Cabinet," which was
formerly closed to all visitors, is now open to gentlemen, but is still
closed to ladies and the Catholic clergy. Its contents exhibit, in a
striking manner, the dissipated public taste and the licentious and
beastly practices of the inhabitants of those doomed cities, Pompeii
and Herculanaeum, showing that they well merited the terrible judgment
meted out to them so suddenly.
We concluded to pay our respects to Mount Vesuvius. It is nearly four
thousand feet above the level of the sea. In the eruption of A. D.
79, the elder Pliny lost his life. In 1631 several currents of lava
burst forth at once and overwhelmed a number of cities at the foot
of the mountain. Resina, partly built upon the site of Herculanaeum,
was consumed by the burning torrent, and it is said that four
thousand persons perished in the catastrophe. Thirty four eruptions
have taken place since 1750, extending to April, 1872. In this last,
thirty persons perished upon the mountain, simply through venturing
incautiously. We left our hotel in a carriage at 9 a. m., and reached
the "Hermitage" at 11:30, situated upon the slope of the mountain,
about one mile below the foot of the cone. The road to this point has
been built at great expense, is very good, but extremely serpentine,
passing over fields and hills of lava, which have been thrown out
from the crater at different periods. We could proceed no further by
carriage. President Smith, according to previous arrangement, was
carried in an armchair, upon the shoulders of four Italians, to the
foot of the cone, while others rode on ponies to the same point, over
a tortuous path, in places very narrow and rocky. Here we left our
ponies. President Smith, borne upon the shoulders of his stalwart
bearers, took the lead, while we followed, assisted by our strong
walkingsticks. The ascent was difficult and fatiguing, in places
very steep, with ashes and sand nearly one foot and a half deep. We
enjoyed a magnificent view of the surrounding country, the long range
of the Apennines in the distance, covered with its snowy mantle, the
ruins of Pompeii, the beautiful city of Naples and its great bay,
dotted with many ships and steamers. We were one hour and a quarter in
making the summit after leaving the foot of the cone. The crater was
partially clear of smoke, affording a fine opportunity for examining
the wonderful abyss. We tumbled a few rocks over the rim, which were
more than thirty seconds reaching the bottom. Some of the party tried
their strength of nerve by standing upon a craggy point, which appeared
to hang over the burning chasm, and thrusting sticks into the smoking
apertures, which inflamed in a moment. One of the party also sought to
acquire fame in boiling and eating an egg in the midst of the burning
heat and sulphurous smoke. It was judged that the mouth of the crater
would equal in dimensions a ten acre block. The mountain all around
appeared only a thin shell in a heated state, and for a long distance
below the summit, here and there, volumes of smoke are issuing. We
descended the mountain at nearly a running pace, which occupied only
about fifteen minutes, arrived at our hotel at nearly 6 o'clock p. m.,
and indulged in a remarkably late breakfast the next morning.
We left Naples by train on the thirtieth, for Brindisi. A great portion
of the country through which we passed is cultivated by the spade; and
we saw here, and also in many other parts of Italy, the women engaged
in this laborious employment; in one instance we noticed a company of
women repairing a break in the railroad by carrying gravel upon their
heads in baskets.
At Brindisi we took steamer for Corfu. We had a pleasant passage--the
sea smooth, the weather fine, like spring, and the air pure and
bracing. We passed close to the coast of Albania, and had a fine view
of Turkish towns and villas, which appeared here and there on the
slopes of the mountains.
The city of Corfu contains about twenty-four thousand people, the
island some fifteen villages, with seventy thousand inhabitants, and
forms a portion of the Grecian government. The olive and grape are
cultivated upon the island very extensively.
Sunday morning we attended Greek service in a magnificent cathedral.
The psalms, prayers and portions of Scripture were read in modern
Greek, and in a very amusing operatic style.
In the afternoon, the capacious square in front of our hotel was
enlivened with thousands of promenaders gaily and richly dressed. The
fashionable Grecian ladies, however, made no display of the "Grecian
Bend." A company of politicians passed us--directly a row ensued, and
one was stabbed to the heart a few steps from where we stood.
We took steamer for Alexandria and arrived here early this morning. We
had fine weather, a smooth sea the whole distance, and no sickness,
a very remarkable circumstance. We remain here four days, and then
proceed by rail to Cairo, one hundred and thirty miles distant.
Port Said, Egypt, February 22d, 1873.
We have now completed our tour in Egypt, which in many respects has
proved the most agreeable and interesting of any country we have
visited in regard to its physical appearance, and the character,
religion, customs and manners of its inhabitants. It occupies the
northeastern part of Africa, and embraces nearly six millions of
people--Egyptians, Turks, Arabs, Greeks, Armenians, Jews, Syrians
and Mamelukes. The great majority are husbandmen, and their social
condition of a low grade, generally ignorant and uneducated and fond
of frivolous amusements. The climate being warm, and their style of
living cheap and simple, their habitations consisting chiefly of low
mud huts, very little labor or expense is required for the maintenance
of families. I noticed, in passing through many of their mud villages,
that they appeared to be swarming with children. We were told, and
from personal observation believed it to be true, that in Egypt the
practice of raising offspring is the general rule and is fashionable
and popular, and that the estimation in which the wife is held by her
husband, and even by her acquaintances, depends in a great measure
upon her fruitfulness and the preservation of her children. By men and
women, whether rich or poor, barrenness is considered a curse and a
reproach, and it is regarded, also, as disgraceful in a man to divorce,
without some substantial reason, a wife who has borne him a child,
especially while her child is living. If a woman desires a husband's
love, or the respect of others, her giving birth to a child is a source
of great joy to her and him, making her own interest a sufficient
motive for maternal tenderness. Children here appear to have great
respect for their parents. We are informed that an undutiful child
is scarcely known among the Egyptians or Arabs, and whenever such an
instance does occur, being considered one of the greatest crimes, its
punishment is very severe. It is said that cases are very rare in Egypt
of wives being unfaithful to their husbands.
In visiting the Turkish mosques, we observed that there were no
pictures, images, statues or altars, which universally decorate the
cathedrals in Catholic countries. Friday is their day for worship. The
public service commences about noon by reading portions of the Koran,
and delivering sermon or addresses by the "Imens." They hold Moses in
profound reverence, and also Jesus Christ, but Mahomet as God's last
and greatest prophet. Their creed is, "There is no Deity but God, and
Mahomet is God's apostle." Adam, Noah, Abraham, Moses and Jesus Christ
were all God's servants in their various ages, but the greatest and
best is Mahomet.
The Copts are avowed Christians, the descendants of the ancient
Egyptians, and are very numerous. They have regular convents,
nunneries, monasteries and about two hundred churches. The other
religions are the Greek Church and the Latin or Roman Catholic.
But little attention is paid to education. Parents generally content
themselves with instilling into the minds of their children a few
principles of religion. The child, as early as possible, is taught to
say, "I testify that there is no Deity but God, and I testify that
Mahomet is God's apostle." The boys are placed under a schoolmaster
to be instructed in a few simple rudiments of education. The common
manner of instruction is to sit upon the ground or floor, pupils and
schoolmaster, each boy with his tablet in hand or a portion of the
Koran or a kind of desk of palm sticks. All the boys recite or chant
this lesson aloud, at the same time rocking their heads and bodies
incessantly backward and forward, this practice being thought to assist
the memory.
While in this country I have not witnessed a single case of
intoxication, though I have been in many places of large gatherings
for general amusement. On every occasion the people were remarkably
orderly--no boisterous speeches, loud talking or laughter. In these
large crowds, and at hotels where only Egyptian servants and Arabs were
employed, I considered my little effects more secure than at American
or European establishments.
The dress of the men of the middle and higher classes consists
generally of the following articles: First, a pair of drawers of linen
or cotton, tied around the body by a draw-string or band, the ends of
which are embroidered with fancy colored silk. The drawers descend
a little below the knees or to the ankles. Next is worn a shirt,
with full sleeves reaching to the wrists, which is made of linen or
cotton, muslin or silk; over this is worn a garment of silk or cotton
descending to the ankles, having long sleeves. The costume of men of
the lower classes is very simple. These, if not of the very poorest
class, wear drawers, or shirt or gown with wide sleeves, and a woolen
girdle or broad red belt. Their turban is generally composed of a
white, red or yellow woolen shawl, but we saw many different forms of
turbans; the common style among the servants consists of several spiral
twists, one above another, like the threads of a screw. Those worn by
the upper class are of a better style. The dress of the Egyptian ladies
is much after the fashion of that of men, but more elegant.
The Mohammedans, like the Christians, are divided into various
religious societies, each having its peculiar tenets and practices. The
Dervishes constitute an important sect--are very numerous, and in many
parts of Egypt are highly respected. Their customs and modes of worship
are singular and curious. Sometimes they enter a solitary cell, remain
forty days and nights, fasting from daybreak till sunset, employing
their time in imploring forgiveness, praising God, etc. Their religious
exercises consist chiefly in the performance of what is called
"zikers." Sometimes standing in the form of a circular or an oblong
ring, or in two rows facing each other, sometimes sitting, they exclaim
or chant "Lailah, Ella-llah!" (there is no Deity but God;) "Allah!
Allah! Allah!" (God! God! God!) or repeat other invocations until their
strength is nearly exhausted, accompanying their ejaculations or chants
with a motion of the head, or of the whole body.
I felt a great curiosity to witness their manner of
worship--fortunately an opportunity presented. We took carriages,
accompanied by a Dervish guide of some distinction, and proceeded to
one of their mosques in Cairo. We were requested to take off our boots
before entering the building--their places of worship being considered
sacred and holy. About fifty Dervishes were standing in the form of
a semi-circle--their head priest in the centre. They were bowing
their heads and bodies nearly to the floor, simultaneously and very
rapidly, keeping time to miserably wretched music, their long, flowing
hair and wild, fanatical expressions, together with their horrible
ejaculations and howls, made them appear more like lunatics or demons
than rational beings. They continued their exercises about fifteen
minutes, until, becoming exhausted, they rested a few moments, then
commenced repeating the ceremonies. One of them, either through a high
state of religious enthusiasm or vehemence of exertion, with a terrible
groan, fell prostrate, foaming at the mouth, his eyes closed, his limbs
convulsed and his fingers clenched. The Dervishes were pleased with
this occurrence, considering it a divine manifestation, which increased
their enthusiasm. At length the presiding Dervish raised the fallen
man and placed him in the circle in charge of two of his companions.
Another occurrence of similar character happened previously to our
leaving the mosque. While these exercises were going on, two Dervishes
stepped inside the circle and commenced whirling around, using both
feet to produce the motion, extending their arms and spinning around
like tops, with great velocity. I expected every moment to see them
precipitated headlong upon the floor, but having continued nearly ten
minutes, they joined the circle, apparently but little exhausted.
We were pleased with our visit in Alexandria, and with our Hotel de
l'Europe, which nearly equals the first-class hotels in America.
Pompey's Pillar, Cleopatra's Needle, the Catacombs, Museum of
Antiquities, etc., received a due share of our attention. But little
improvement is at present being made in Alexandria, compared with that
of Cairo--it seems merely of importance as a maritime city.
In traveling in Egypt along the delta of the Nile, wherever its waters
can reach by overflow or irrigation, the soil is remarkably rich,
fertile and productive. Heavy growths of wheat, barley, clover, cane,
cotton, with now and then a field of flax, also fields of beans,
orange, lemon and fine vegetable gardens, with peach trees now in full
bloom.
In passing from Cairo to Ismalia, we saw one steam plow in operation
but generally the ground is cultivated by rudely constructed plows
drawn by oxen or an ox and camel yoked together, sometimes by two
camels.
We have visited Suez and looked upon the beautiful waters of the famous
Red Sea, and enjoyed a delightful sail over a portion of the great Suez
Canal.
This afternoon we leave by steamer for Jaffa, where we arrange for our
Palestine tour, which will occupy about four weeks, and be performed on
horseback.
Lorenzo Snow.
LETTER VII.
Jaffa.--Traveling arrangement.--Place where the Ark was
built.--House of Simon the Tanner.--Mohammedan funeral
ceremony.--Plains of Sharon.--A night in the desert.--Battlefield
of David and Goliath.--Rose of Sharon.--Mount Zion.--Mount of
Olives.--Jerusalem.--Rachel's Tomb.--Solomon's Pools.--Church of
the Nativity.--Studio of St. Jerome.--Shepherds' field.--Jordan
River.--Dead Sea.
Jerusalem, February 26th, 1873.
_Editor Deseret News_:
Saturday evening, the 22d inst., we steamed out from Port Said, and
the following morning anchored within a half mile of Jaffa, the first
seaport of Palestine. In boisterous weather and rough seas, landing
is difficult and dangerous--frequently impossible, occasioning much
annoyance and great expense to tourists. As we arose at early dawn,
our anxiety was relieved by finding we were favored with a smooth
sea and fine weather, and we were enabled by means of small boats to
disembark with comparative safety. On approaching Jaffa from the sea,
it presents a charming and picturesque appearance, being situated upon
a high eminence, its streets rising one above another like seats in
an amphitheatre, surrounded by beautiful lemon and orange groves and
tall waving cypresses. On entering the custom house with our baggage,
some francs bestowed upon the smiling, obsequious Mussulman official,
saved the trouble of looking up our passports and occupying time which
otherwise would have been employed by officious Turks in ransacking our
satchels and trunks. We proceeded on foot to our encampment, carriages
being out of the question, through the suburbs of the town, till we
came to a Turkish cemetery near the shore of the Mediterranean. We
found the arrangements completed for our traveling expedition--two
sleeping tents, a separate one for the ladies, a kitchen tent with cook
stove, a saloon or dining tent, iron bedsteads, mattresses, clean white
sheets, abundance of bedding, carpets and camp stools. We were provided
with good horses, saddles, an efficient dragoman, plenty of servants
and preparations to serve three meals per day, under the supervision of
an experienced cook.
Jaffa is considered the oldest seaport in world; it has a population of
about five thousand, principally Arabs, Greeks and Mohammedans.
The interior of the city does not compare favorably in its appearance
with its exterior. The streets are narrow, crooked, and filthy in the
extreme--the houses uncomfortable, dark and gloomy, and the occupants
are certainly unprepossessing in manners and general appearance. This
is the ancient Joppa of Bible history, and is supposed to be the place
where Noah's Ark was built, the port where the Prophet Jonah embarked
when fleeing from the presence of the Lord, and where Hiram, King of
Tyre, brought the cedars of Lebanon for the building of the Temple at
Jerusalem.
Among other places of sacred interest, we visited the "House of Simon
the tanner, by the seaside," where Peter had the remarkable vision in
which the will of God was revealed concerning the Gentiles, by letting
down a sheet containing all manner of beasts, etc., and heard the voice
commanding him to "rise, kill and eat."
During our encampment we witnessed a ceremony of Mohammedan burial. The
corpse of a child, wrapped in white, was borne to the grave, without a
coffin, in the arms of a Mussulman, attended by the parents and a few
friends. The body was placed in a small enclosure formed at the bottom
of the grave by stones placed around, after which, several small paper
packages were emptied into the grave; the enclosure containing the
corpse was overlaid with flat rocks, the grave filled with earth, then
a half bushel of beautiful little sea shells scattered over. Several
women, clothed in white, knelt around the grave and commenced weeping
and wailing in the most affecting manner, which they continued for
several hours.
The next morning our tents were struck and we mounted our horses,
following our dragoman in single file along the winding streets of
Jaffa, lined with crowds of gazing Arabs and Mussulmen. After leaving
the town, we passed through extensive and lovely orange and lemon
groves loaded with golden fruit, and presently reached the flowery
Plains of Sharon. The atmosphere was sweet and balmy, the gorgeous
sun spreading its enlivening rays upon the beautiful country around,
the morning lovely as ever dawned upon the holy land of Palestine. We
felt that we were passing over the land once occupied by the children
of Abraham, the plains once trod by the kings of Israel with their
marshaled hosts, the land of the Apostles and Prophets. We were in
Palestine! The Holy Land! The consciousness of the fact was inspiring.
Hour after hour we rode onward in silent and solemn meditation; at
length we reached the city of Ramleh, four hours distant from Jaffa,
where we stopped to rest our animals, and partake of refreshments.
Here is "The Martyrs' Tower." We ascended a flight of stairs to its
lofty summit, which commands a magnificent view of the surrounding
country--the Plains of Sharon, Arab villages here and there upon rising
mounds, gigantic prickly pear hedges, olive orchards, and now and then
a palm tree rising majestically above the whole, and the mountains of
Judea appearing in the distance.
We resumed our journey, passed trains of loaded camels, mounted by half
naked Arabs, smoking their long pipes, looking down smilingly from
their "ships of the desert," doubtless sympathizing with us in our
humbler mode of traveling.
The soil is generally rich and fertile, growing fields of wheat and
vegetables. The dews fall profusely, and we were informed that latterly
rain is more frequent in Palestine than in former years.
About 4 p. m. we arrived at our encampment, a beautiful basin enclosed
by romantic hills at the entrance of the Valley of Ajalon. Through the
night we were serenaded by bands of musical frogs, accompanied by howls
of jackals in the adjacent hills, relieved by the low plaintive chants
of our Turkish guards, and charming songs of cuckoos perched in the
branches of olive trees around our camp.
On the following morning, after an early breakfast, with our faces
toward the "Holy City," we moved forward, passing through the Valley
of Ajalon, and soon commenced ascending into a more elevated region of
country, generally rocky and mountainous, producing but little more
than is required for the flocks of sheep and goats ranging upon it.
About 12 o'clock we stopped to lunch under the shade of olive trees, in
the Valley of Elah, where it is said David selected stones with which
to combat Goliath, while the two contending armies were encamped on
the slopes of the adjacent mountains. At a short distance from this
locality we were shown the Kirjath-jearim of sacred history, where the
"Ark of the Covenant" is said to have rested twenty years.
The Valley of Elah is richly ornamented in the midst of its rocky
surface and sparse vegetation with what is called the "Rose of
Sharon," a flower of a deep red, velvety appearance, three inches in
circumference or thereabout, growing from six inches to one foot in
height.
One hour's ride from our lunching place will bring us to Jerusalem.
We move on and at length ascend an eminence, and gaze on the "Holy
City," Jerusalem. Away to the right is Mount Zion, the city of David.
Off to our left, that lofty eminence, with an aspect so barren, is the
Mount of Olives, once the favorite resort of our Savior, and the spot
last pressed by His sacred feet before He ascended into the presence
of His Father. These interesting historic scenes, with all their
sacred associations, inspire thoughts and reflections impressive and
solemn. Yes, there is Jerusalem! Where Jesus lived and taught, and
was crucified, where He cried, "It is finished," and bowed His
head and died! We slowly and thoughtfully wind our way down the hill,
passing the Russian buildings and other prominent establishments, until
we reach the city and enter our encampment.