Masonry walls that are to be furred, sometimes have, as the work
progresses, common wood laths laid in the joints of the brickwork
on the inside face of the wall, about every seventh course, except
over chimneys. The lath should be staggered so as to avoid two
vertical lath joints in succession. These serve as nail holds for
the furring strips as explained on page 24.
[Sidenote: Laying a 2-inch Wall]
Where local requirements demand a 12-inch wall, the method of
construction is the same as in the 8-inch wall, except that two
rows or tiers of backing brick, instead of one, are carried up
to the advanced level of the face brick, leaving the thin spaces
between the tiers of brick open as the best way of securing a
warmer and drier wall. Of course, in the case of piers and points
in the wall that carry heavy loads, all interior joints should be
well slushed with mortar for evident structural reasons.
[Sidenote: Roof Plate Anchor]
Before the top of the wall is reached, the anchors for bolting
down the roof plate should be placed and the brickwork carried up
around them (Fig. 16). They should be made of half-inch bolts at
least 12 inches long, with a tee or washer at the bottom and a nut
and washer at the top, and should be set approximately every 6 feet
along the wall. After the carpenter has placed the roof plate and
before it is bolted down, the mason should bed with cement mortar
under it.
[Sidenote: Nogging]
When the wall is finally carried to the top and the roof rafters
set, but before the roof boarding is in place, the mason should
fill in between the roof rafters with one tier of brick as shown
in Fig. 16. This is called nogging. Its purpose is to block
effectually the openings between the roof rafters and prevent the
wind from entering the walls and attic. This adds greatly to the
comfort of the house in cold weather. In warm climates nogging will
be found unnecessary.
[Illustration: Fig. 16. Rafters and Roof Plate]