A tavern-keeper brought in some wine glasses stinking of whiskey, to
which a cloth seemed never to have been applied; out of a pitcher of
water he poured some into a glass, just shook it, and then throwing the
water into the waiter upon which the wine stood, walked away satisfied
with this proof of his cleanliness: and a female the other evening, in
order to brush away the flies while we were at supper, flourished over
our heads her dirty pocket handkerchief, in the absence of the brush of
feathers fixed upon a long stick, which is generally waved over the
dishes during the repast. The practice of going barefoot is here very
general among working people, particularly the females; it is by no
means an uncommon sight {47} in New York and Philadelphia, during the
summer season, even in good houses; a custom this, probably, at least as
cleanly as that of wearing close shoes and stockings.
12th. At Greensburgh, thirty miles east from Pittsburgh. The country we
have lately passed is beautifully undulated, land of good quality
interspersed with woodland, worth near from twenty to twenty-five
dollars per acre; water plentiful and good.
Our landlord has just returned from a journey to the western country as
far as St. Louis, on the borders of the Missourie territory; his report
of the country is not favourable: he says it is very unhealthy, which he
ascribes to the woodland, contrary to the general situation of such
land, being lower than the open prairie; consequently retaining much
stagnant water, the fruitful cause of diseases.
18th. At Hayes' tavern, three miles west of Pittsburgh, in which
"Birmingham of America" I had intended to make some stay; but the heat,
dirt, filth, and charges made me hasten out of it in search of rest and
fresh air to this place.
The town of Pittsburgh[16] stands beautifully, at the junction of the
two rivers, and the land around it is of good quality; but its trade is
upon the wane, not alone owing I apprehend to the times, {48} but to the
town of Wheeling's being better situated for ready communication with
the western country, and consequently thriving upon its decay.
Pittsburgh has, too, suffered greatly from the extensive failures of the
country banks. I met everywhere grave, eager, hungry looking faces; and
could perceive, as well as hear complaints of, a general want of
employment.
It being near the hour of dinner when we arrived, we joined the company
at table, consisting chiefly of constant boarders, who, after a quick
and silent repast, vanished; leaving at table two pleasant and travelled
men, one a man of law from Boston, (Massachusetts,) the other a
gentleman resident in Virginia. We talked of slavery, which the latter
defended ingeniously, though not convincingly, by quotations from the
sacred writings, St. Paul, &c.;--he owned a numerous establishment of
slaves, and such was his reliance upon their attachment and content,
that he had not the slightest apprehension of danger to his family
during his absence: he had come to Pittsburgh to attend a trial, and
entertained us with an account of the conduct in court of his Counsel,
who, he gave us to understand, was a man high in the profession; neither
Counsel nor Judge as is well known, put on here any gown but the heat of
the day had induced this gentleman's {49} Counsel first to put off his
coat, and not finding himself yet cool enough he got rid of waistcoat
also; and then, further to cool his constitution and assist thought, he
put a cigar into his mouth, and in this trim paraded up and down the
court. The old gentleman, who had been in most parts of Europe, then
asked what could strangers, just coming from England, think of such
conduct in a court of trial? The glass circulated and in such
conversation the time passed agreeably, until, at some general
observation I made, the Bostonian fired up and we were as near a quarrel
as any prudent people need to be; when the Virginian interposed and
succeeded in making peace: however, harmony had been broken and we soon
after separated. In the evening, expecting a pleasant drive of three
miles, we left Pittsburgh; and, crossing the river by a respectable
new-covered-bridge, for which I paid a toll of one dollar each carriage,
took a wrong turn on the other side; and after encountering most
dreadful roads, and making a tour of above six or eight miles instead of
three, arrived by moonlight at the long-looked-for tavern.
At this obscure inn exists yet hearty at the age of eighty-eight years,
one of fortune's fools, Captain Fowler, an Englishman late of the 38th
regiment of foot; a man who in early life was {50} advanced, solely by
merit and strict attention to the duties of a soldier, through every
gradation, until he not only bore a captain's commission, but at the
same time received the pay of adjutant and paymaster to three
regiments.--Having attained to this rank, the favourite of Lord Percy,
General Crosby and other officers of his day, and being in the high road
to further honour and promotion, he was induced on the insidious
misrepresentations of a sordid brother, to quit all these favours of
fortune and come to America: here, at the instance of this relative
embarking in one plausible speculation or another, he wasted his
fortune; and now wears out the remainder of his days unknown at this
tavern, kept by a good-hearted rough Irishman who has become his
son-in-law. It is pleasing to see the attention that he receives from
the family, which uniting with age and religion seem effectually to
reconcile the old man to his fate.